Anybody make a high-gage high-quality switched power cord, suitable for
a power amp?

I just got an early model Carver Sunfire Signature, which doesn't
have an ON/OFF switch, or the 'Power Sense' circuit they putting in
current models. If it's plugged-in, it's on, plan and simple. If I
put my ears right up to the tweeters, I can hear the noise floor.

I don't like current going to my speakers when they're not in use.

I'm already using an expensive PowerWedge line conditioner and I'm
not going to introduce a cheap power strip. I just need a decent cord
with a switch.

Recommendations?

Thanks,

A_C

Agent_C wrote:
Anybody make a high-gage high-quality switched power cord, suitable for
a power amp?

I just got an early model Carver Sunfire Signature, which doesn't
have an ON/OFF switch, or the 'Power Sense' circuit they putting in
current models. If it's plugged-in, it's on, plan and simple. If I
put my ears right up to the tweeters, I can hear the noise floor.

I don't like current going to my speakers when they're not in use.

I'm already using an expensive PowerWedge line conditioner and I'm
not going to introduce a cheap power strip. I just need a decent cord
with a switch.

Recommendations?



Middle Atlantic makes one called the RPS15. I think they're $60 or $70
retail.

Agent_C wrote:

I don't like current going to my speakers when they're not in use.

I'm already using an expensive PowerWedge line conditioner and I'm
not going to introduce a cheap power strip. I just need a decent cord
with a switch.

Recommendations?

Drill a hole in the side of the Power Wedge. Install a nice big
SPST switch on the incoming power lead.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

1. Not that I know of.

2. Hearing the noise floor with your ear to the tweeter is normal.

3. No significant current is going to your speakers unless the amp
fails.

4. Aren't there any switched outlets on your PowerWedge?

5. Don't get a cheap power strip; get a hefty one.

Kal


On 27 Jun 2005 06:35:31 -0700, "Agent_C"
wrote:

Anybody make a high-gage high-quality switched power cord, suitable for
a power amp?

I just got an early model Carver Sunfire Signature, which doesn't
have an ON/OFF switch, or the 'Power Sense' circuit they putting in
current models. If it's plugged-in, it's on, plan and simple. If I
put my ears right up to the tweeters, I can hear the noise floor.

I don't like current going to my speakers when they're not in use.

I'm already using an expensive PowerWedge line conditioner and I'm
not going to introduce a cheap power strip. I just need a decent cord
with a switch.

Recommendations?

Thanks,

A_C

On 27 Jun 2005 06:35:31 -0700, "Agent_C"
wrote:

I'm already using an expensive PowerWedge line conditioner and I'm
not going to introduce a cheap power strip. I just need a decent cord
with a switch.

Why not? A power strip isn't going to negate any cleaning-up done by
the conditioner.

Agent_C wrote:

Anybody make a high-gage high-quality switched power cord,
suitable
for a power amp?

Lots of people. There's no magic in power cords, just
overblow prices for the emperor's new power cord.

I just got an early model Carver Sunfire Signature, which
doesn't
have an ON/OFF switch, or the 'Power Sense' circuit they
putting in
current models. If it's plugged-in, it's on, plan and
simple. If I
put my ears right up to the tweeters, I can hear the noise
floor.

So your query is based on a desire to save power?

I don't like current going to my speakers when they're not
in use.

Thaof course, this is a power amp and they all make a little
residual noise.

I'm already using an expensive PowerWedge line conditioner
and I'm
not going to introduce a cheap power strip.

I was just reading up about this product and found this
review:

http://www.audiophilia.com/hardware/powerwedge.htm

"Listening to Aaron Copland's An Outdoor Overture (Reference
Recordings), I immediately noticed that the high massed
strings sounded a bit muted and macro dynamics suffered in
relation to the unconditioned amplifier. The
usually-powerful timpani whacks and brass blasts on this
recording lost some of their impact. I listened further to
see if these impressions were consistent across recordings
and indeed they were. The usual impact and gut-wrenching
intensity of Shostakovich's Symphony No. 8 (Teldec) was
missing in action. This was definitely not the eighth
symphony that I knew and loved."
I'm trying to figure out whether this is the usual
sighted-listening test heavy breathing so common in the high
end press, or a report of an actual audible fault due the
use of a line conditioner that ran out of power, and
actually caused the power amp to distort at a lower level.

Long story short, is this power conditioner creating trouble
where there was none, or is it being falsly indicted by
someone who is prejudiced against it?

I just need a decent cord with a switch.

Check out your hardware store.

Recommendations?

Home Depot, Lowes, Ace...

Buster Mudd wrote:

Middle Atlantic makes one called the RPS15. I think they're $60 or $70
retail.

Hilarious ! There's no end to this upgrade **** is there ?

Graham

Agent_C wrote:

Anybody make a high-gage high-quality switched power cord, suitable for
a power amp?

I just got an early model Carver Sunfire Signature, which doesn't
have an ON/OFF switch, or the 'Power Sense' circuit they putting in
current models. If it's plugged-in, it's on, plan and simple. If I
put my ears right up to the tweeters, I can hear the noise floor.

I don't like current going to my speakers when they're not in use.

I'd be more concerned about the amplifier being continually on. It sure
won't bother the speakers. Some components in the amp do have lifetime
issues long term ( primarily PSU caps ). And this is an *old* amplifier
already.


I'm already using an expensive PowerWedge line conditioner and I'm
not going to introduce a cheap power strip.

Why ? What's a plain vanilla power strip going to upset ? If the power's
already filtered, just add the strip after the conditioner. You don't have
to 'double condition' it you know.

I just need a decent cord with a switch.

I've never seen such a thing.

Graham

Pooh Bear wrote:


I just need a decent cord with a switch.


I've never seen such a thing.

Ever been to a hardware store? You can get an inline switch that tacs
onto a power cord for about a buck and a half.

Joe Sensor wrote:

Pooh Bear wrote:

I just need a decent cord with a switch.

I've never seen such a thing.

Ever been to a hardware store? You can get an inline switch that tacs
onto a power cord for about a buck and a half.

Not in the UK you can't ! Can't imagine who'd need one - except for stuff
without a power switch which is kind of unknown here.

Oh - hang on - you mean you wire it inline *yourself* ? I hope it carries
the ground through. We used to have what were called torpedo switches you
could wire into fig-8 cable ( the stuff you call zip cord ? ) but I think
they were withdrawn for safety reasons decades back.

In the OP's case I'd suggest he follow your advice though. Unless they
don't have grounds.

Graham

Pooh Bear wrote:
Buster Mudd wrote:

Middle Atlantic makes one called the RPS15. I think they're $60 or $70
retail.

Hilarious ! There's no end to this upgrade **** is there ?



I don't think Middle Atlantic is even pretending this is an "upgrade";
they're certainly not marketing it as if it will offer any performance
improvements. It's just a convenience ...a really ****ing overpriced
convenience.

http://www.middleatlantic.com/power/PowerRPS.htm

"Scott Dorsey" wrote ...
Agent_C wrote:

I don't like current going to my speakers when they're not in use.

I'm already using an expensive PowerWedge line conditioner and I'm
not going to introduce a cheap power strip. I just need a decent cord
with a switch.

Recommendations?

Drill a hole in the side of the Power Wedge. Install a nice big
SPST switch on the incoming power lead.

But how long must he burn-in the switch before it will pass
power of sufficient quality for his power amp? And where
can he find a genuine golden-ears, tweako power switch?
Can't use just any old ordinary power switch.

Pooh Bear wrote:

In the OP's case I'd suggest he follow your advice though. Unless they
don't have grounds.

I actually went to buy one for my daughters lamp, but I was looking for
one wired on a cord, they used to have em' at the five and dime. So then
I was all set to buy one of the torpedo switches and make my own, but
ended up spending 20 bucks for a remote control switch. It is a regular
(wall type) light switch in a box that you can mount anywhere. Uses a 9
volt battery. Then a receiver that plugs in the wall socket and you just
plug into that. I think it is 600 watts maximum but that should be
plenty. Like I said, only cost 20 bucks. Of course, it was made in China.

In article writes:

Ever been to a hardware store? You can get an inline switch that tacs
onto a power cord for about a buck and a half.

Maybe, maybe not. If this is a fairly high power amplifier, it might
have a larger power cord than what will fit (both the case and the
contacts) an in-line switch. I have a couple of them on lamps around
here that work fine on #18 zip cord, but they wouldn't fit on even a
common 13 amp IEC power cord.


--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me he double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

Mike Rivers wrote:

Ever been to a hardware store? You can get an inline switch that tacs
onto a power cord for about a buck and a half.


Maybe, maybe not. If this is a fairly high power amplifier, it might
have a larger power cord than what will fit (both the case and the
contacts) an in-line switch. I have a couple of them on lamps around
here that work fine on #18 zip cord, but they wouldn't fit on even a
common 13 amp IEC power cord.

Ok, but you get the point. This is a low tech problem and the solution
should be very cheap.

On 27 Jun 2005 18:19:06 -0400, (Mike Rivers)
wrote:


In article writes:

Ever been to a hardware store? You can get an inline switch that tacs
onto a power cord for about a buck and a half.

Maybe, maybe not. If this is a fairly high power amplifier, it might
have a larger power cord than what will fit (both the case and the
contacts) an in-line switch. I have a couple of them on lamps around
here that work fine on #18 zip cord, but they wouldn't fit on even a
common 13 amp IEC power cord.
That is *good*, because all the switches I found in hardware stores
recently, were rated 6 amps @ 125V and I know there are a lot of "It
fits, it must be OK" types out there. :^)

BTW
Grainger lists cat 2X547 for SJT cords (.25) with a 10A rating @ 125V
http://www.grainger.com
, _
, | \ MKA: Steve Urbach
, | )erek No JUNK in my email please
, ____|_/ragonsclaw
, / / / Running United Devices "Cure For Cancer" Project 24/7 Have you helped? http://www.grid.org

On 27 Jun 2005 07:06:43 -0700, "Buster Mudd"
wrote:


Middle Atlantic makes one called the RPS15. I think they're $60 or $70
retail.

Thanks, this is exactly what I need.

.... and at $92.00 a screaming bargain!

A_C

Buster Mudd wrote:

Pooh Bear wrote:
Buster Mudd wrote:

Middle Atlantic makes one called the RPS15. I think they're $60 or $70
retail.

Hilarious ! There's no end to this upgrade **** is there ?


I don't think Middle Atlantic is even pretending this is an "upgrade";
they're certainly not marketing it as if it will offer any performance
improvements. It's just a convenience ...a really ****ing overpriced
convenience.

http://www.middleatlantic.com/power/PowerRPS.htm

I see what you mean ! Convenient for sure but total overkill if you don't need
'remote control'.

Wouldn't a switched outlet strip be far simpler ?

Graham

Richard Crowley wrote:

"Scott Dorsey" wrote ...
Agent_C wrote:

I don't like current going to my speakers when they're not in use.

I'm already using an expensive PowerWedge line conditioner and I'm
not going to introduce a cheap power strip. I just need a decent cord
with a switch.

Recommendations?

Drill a hole in the side of the Power Wedge. Install a nice big
SPST switch on the incoming power lead.

But how long must he burn-in the switch before it will pass
power of sufficient quality for his power amp? And where
can he find a genuine golden-ears, tweako power switch?
Can't use just any old ordinary power switch.

Nooo ? I was about to say like the one in the wall socket - but not sure if
you guys have switched outlets over there.

Graham

"Agent_C" wrote in message
oups.com...
Anybody make a high-gage high-quality switched power cord, suitable for
a power amp?

I just got an early model Carver Sunfire Signature, which doesn't
have an ON/OFF switch, or the 'Power Sense' circuit they putting in
current models. If it's plugged-in, it's on, plan and simple. If I
put my ears right up to the tweeters, I can hear the noise floor.

I don't like current going to my speakers when they're not in use.

The current going to your speakers (ie hiss) when there is no music is
totally insignificant. If, for some reason, this matters to you, get a
line-cord switch and stick it in your power cable.

Also there should be no problem with an inexpensive switch distrib board, as
long as it's not total junk. Power-conditioner or whatever.

geoff

"Agent_C" wrote in message
...
On 27 Jun 2005 07:06:43 -0700, "Buster Mudd"
wrote:


Middle Atlantic makes one called the RPS15. I think they're $60 or $70
retail.

Thanks, this is exactly what I need.

... and at $92.00 a screaming bargain!


Should cost $5, $10 max. But at that price it couldn't possibly 'sound
good', eh ...

geoff

"Richard Crowley" wrote in message


Drill a hole in the side of the Power Wedge. Install a nice big SPST
switch on the incoming power lead.

But how long must he burn-in the switch before it will pass
power of sufficient quality for his power amp? And where
can he find a genuine golden-ears, tweako power switch?
Can't use just any old ordinary power switch.

And where to get a switch with the correct direactionality markings...

geoff

In article writes:

I was all set to buy one of the torpedo switches and make my own, but
ended up spending 20 bucks for a remote control switch. It is a regular
(wall type) light switch in a box that you can mount anywhere. Uses a 9
volt battery. Then a receiver that plugs in the wall socket and you just
plug into that. I think it is 600 watts maximum but that should be
plenty. Like I said, only cost 20 bucks.

I don't even have any lamps that I paid $20 for. I'm sure not going to
pay $20 for a switch.

--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me he double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

On Mon, 27 Jun 2005 22:26:46 +0100, Pooh Bear
wrote:

Ever been to a hardware store? You can get an inline switch that tacs
onto a power cord for about a buck and a half.

Not in the UK you can't ! Can't imagine who'd need one - except for stuff
without a power switch which is kind of unknown here.

Oh - hang on - you mean you wire it inline *yourself* ? I hope it carries
the ground through. We used to have what were called torpedo switches you
could wire into fig-8 cable ( the stuff you call zip cord ? ) but I think
they were withdrawn for safety reasons decades back.

It's still the Wild West here in the Colonies. These switches bite
into the cord, one wire only, and are perfectly appropriate for
lamps and such. Unless you really love the folks living there,
but still...

For working (meaning not domestic) situations, blue boxes and
ordinary wall light switches are amazingly affordable and rugged
and UL and safe.

I once had a VW Type 3 with light switches for ignition and starter,
mounted together in a two-gang. Nobody ever stole it. 'Course, if
you'd seen it, you'd understand why.

Chris Hornbeck
"I can build you a test that will show either one. Which
would you prefer me to demonstrate?"
--scott

On Mon, 27 Jun 2005 19:47:51 -0400, Agent_C wrote:


Middle Atlantic makes one called the RPS15. I think they're $60 or $70
retail.

Thanks, this is exactly what I need.

... and at $92.00 a screaming bargain!

A fool & his money?

What the hell, want to buy a slightly used waterbed? Cheap?

"Mike Rivers" wrote ...
I don't even have any lamps that I paid $20 for. I'm sure not going to
pay $20 for a switch.

You and me both. But we are old fogies who don't appreciate
"modern technology". :-)

"Pooh Bear" wrote ...
Wouldn't a switched outlet strip be far simpler ?

The OP rejected that option as it would "contaminate" the pure
power coming out of his golden-ears power filter.

"Chris Hornbeck" wrote in message

It's still the Wild West here in the Colonies. These switches bite
into the cord, one wire only, and are perfectly appropriate for
lamps and such. Unless you really love the folks living there,
but still...


In this colony you can get inline switches that happily switch the phase
wire, and leave room for neutral and ground to pass through uninterupted.

I use one made up like this for servicing, as my isolating transformer
output isn't switched.

geoff

PS, yes I know I don't need the ground wire as it's isolated in this
scenario, but the lead would otherwise be illegal...

Geoff Wood wrote:

"Chris Hornbeck" wrote in message

It's still the Wild West here in the Colonies. These switches bite
into the cord, one wire only, and are perfectly appropriate for
lamps and such. Unless you really love the folks living there,
but still...


In this colony you can get inline switches that happily switch the phase
wire, and leave room for neutral and ground to pass through uninterupted.

I use one made up like this for servicing, as my isolating transformer
output isn't switched.

geoff

PS, yes I know I don't need the ground wire as it's isolated in this
scenario, but the lead would otherwise be illegal...

Hmmm......

In Europe it's considered normal for a switch to interrupt *both* the phase
and neutral !

I do this in my designs without even giving it a 2nd thought !

I'm beginning to see why UL is so fixated about fire hazard

I guess you guys burn down the house as a result of a simple electrical fault
on a regular basis ?

Graham

On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 02:41:46 GMT, Agent 86
wrote:

A fool & his money?

What the hell, want to buy a slightly used waterbed? Cheap?

Neither you or Wood apparently have any sense of humor at all...

A_C

In article writes:

Ok, but you get the point. This is a low tech problem and the solution
should be very cheap.

Kind of makes you wonder why the manufacturer didn't put a power
switch on it in the first place. Surely it wasn't to save a couple of
dollars.



--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me he double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

In article writes:

I'm beginning to see why UL is so fixated about fire hazard

I guess you guys burn down the house as a result of a simple electrical fault
on a regular basis ?

It happens more often than it should.

--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me he double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

"Mike Rivers" wrote in message
news:znr1119957326k@trad...

In article
writes:

I'm beginning to see why UL is so fixated about fire hazard

I guess you guys burn down the house as a result of a simple
electrical fault
on a regular basis ?

It happens more often than it should.

When I went to Spain for a week, I unplugged all my
power strips from the wall outlets just to be sure that
all the little cheap wall warts, etc. were inert in my
absence.

Joe Sensor wrote:

Ever been to a hardware store? You can get an inline switch that tacs
onto a power cord for about a buck and a half.

Ever engage your brain before opening your mouth?

I'm not going to power a 1200 watt / 10 amp / $3000 audio component off
of zip cord and a contact switch.

A_C

On 28 Jun 2005 07:20:08 -0700, "Agent_C"
wrote:

Joe Sensor wrote:

Ever been to a hardware store? You can get an inline switch that tacs
onto a power cord for about a buck and a half.

Ever engage your brain before opening your mouth?

I'm not going to power a 1200 watt / 10 amp / $3000 audio component off
of zip cord and a contact switch.

A_C

Why not?

d

Pearce Consulting
http://www.pearce.uk.com

Agent_C wrote:

Joe Sensor wrote:

Ever been to a hardware store? You can get an inline switch that tacs
onto a power cord for about a buck and a half.


Ever engage your brain before opening your mouth?


http://www.brokeninside.com/omfg/stfu/pics/76.jpg

I'm not going to power a 1200 watt / 10 amp / $3000 audio component off
of zip cord and a contact switch.

Yeah, ok, whatever.

Don Pearce wrote:
On 28 Jun 2005 07:20:08 -0700, "Agent_C"
wrote:

Joe Sensor wrote:

Ever been to a hardware store? You can get an inline
switch that
tacs onto a power cord for about a buck and a half.

Ever engage your brain before opening your mouth?

I'm not going to power a 1200 watt / 10 amp / $3000 audio
component
off of zip cord and a contact switch.

A_C

Why not?

Good question. 12 gauge zip cord is still zip cord, while
your typical in-line AC power switch is rated at 15 amps.

Myself, I'd use 14 gauge SOJ and just run the green wire
straight past the switch contact.

http://doityourself.com/store/u244392.htm

Richard Crowley wrote:

"Pooh Bear" wrote ...
Wouldn't a switched outlet strip be far simpler ?

The OP rejected that option as it would "contaminate" the pure
power coming out of his golden-ears power filter.

Yabbbut !

The suggested remote control switch doesn't use golden ears cable ( or
switch even ) so it can't be any good ! Tssk..... and the on-off knob
isn't made of sound-deadening material either !

Graham

Richard Crowley wrote:

"Mike Rivers" wrote in message
news:znr1119957326k@trad...

In article
writes:

I'm beginning to see why UL is so fixated about fire hazard

I guess you guys burn down the house as a result of a simple
electrical fault
on a regular basis ?

It happens more often than it should.

When I went to Spain for a week, I unplugged all my
power strips from the wall outlets just to be sure that
all the little cheap wall warts, etc. were inert in my
absence.

Tssk.... You're being a little xenophobic there ! ;-)

Graham


p.s. I have to tell the story about the 'OEM' wallwart some time. It
needs a pic so I'll post it in abse

Mike Rivers wrote:

In article writes:

Ok, but you get the point. This is a low tech problem and the solution
should be very cheap.

Kind of makes you wonder why the manufacturer didn't put a power
switch on it in the first place. Surely it wasn't to save a couple of
dollars.

I expect it may have been to make it look 'professional' or just plain style
driven ?

They could still have fitted a switch on the back panel though.

Graham