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#1
Posted to rec.audio.pro
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Best XLRs ?
Having a spate of XLRs with their rubber or plastic 'boot'
strain-reliefs getting either simply pulled out of the shell, or worse ripped, split, whatever , but mostly irreparably damaged. Short of dumping my clumsy client-base, any suggestions of the best (and hopefully affordable) brand/model XLRs that can survive stage-use ? I think the worst use is on stage monitors where monitors get moved or cables tripped on... geoff |
#2
Posted to rec.audio.pro
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Best XLRs ?
geoff wrote:
Having a spate of XLRs with their rubber or plastic 'boot' strain-reliefs getting either simply pulled out of the shell, or worse ripped, split, whatever , but mostly irreparably damaged. Short of dumping my clumsy client-base, any suggestions of the best (and hopefully affordable) brand/model XLRs that can survive stage-use ? ** None are a strong as the old style, full metal ones with the saddle clamp. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XLR_co...connectors.jpg You could drive a vehicle one without damage, the ones made by Switchcraft are similar. https://www.swee****er.com/store/det...-xlr-connector I think the worst use is on stage monitors where monitors get moved or cables tripped on... ** In that case, something has to give - either the plug lets go or the cable tears out. IME, in the case of the two above, repair is nearly always possible. The Switchcraft one is still available. ..... Phil |
#3
Posted to rec.audio.pro
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Best XLRs ?
Switchcraft seem to have survivability.
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#4
Posted to rec.audio.pro
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Best XLRs ?
geoff wrote:
Having a spate of XLRs with their rubber or plastic 'boot' strain-reliefs getting either simply pulled out of the shell, or worse ripped, split, whatever , but mostly irreparably damaged. Were they cheap clones of the old Canon two-screw design? Short of dumping my clumsy client-base, any suggestions of the best (and hopefully affordable) brand/model XLRs that can survive stage-use ? Switchcraft or Neutrik. The Amphenol ones are okay too, but more money. For monitors, you MIGHT consider investing in the Switchcraft right angle connectors. They are far more expensive than the regular ones and not a lot of places stock them, but they can eliminate a lot of problems when cables need to come out parallel to the panel. --scott -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." |
#5
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Best XLRs ?
Phil Allison wrote:
** None are a strong as the old style, full metal ones with the saddle clamp. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XLR_co...connectors.jpg That's the Canon style ones. They were strong, BUT those screws were always working their way out and getting lost if you didn't locktite them. Also the boot materials decayed. But they did take a beating. You could drive a vehicle one without damage, the ones made by Switchcraft are similar. I actually saw a remote truck towed several feet by a Canon XLR. The cable broke before the connector. I use the Switchcrafts and recommend them also. --scott -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." |
#6
Posted to rec.audio.pro
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Best XLRs ?
Scott Dorsey wrote:
Phil Allison ** None are a strong as the old style, full metal ones with the saddle clamp. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XLR_co...connectors.jpg That's the Canon style ones. They were strong, BUT those screws were always working their way out and getting lost if you didn't locktite them. Also the boot materials decayed. But they did take a beating. ** One of my customers used to to sleeve Cannon XLRs with clear shrink tubing after placing an identifying number underneath. It kept the saddle screws in place too. I still have a 35mm film can with dozens of custom made replacement screws. This was in the 1970s when to only XLRs on sale were made in Melbourne by STC-Cannon. ..... Phil |
#7
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Best XLRs ?
Scott Dorsey wrote:
Phil Allison You could drive a vehicle one without damage, the ones made by Switchcraft are similar. I actually saw a remote truck towed several feet by a Canon XLR. The cable broke before the connector. I use the Switchcrafts and recommend them also. ** The shell and other parts are made of Stainless Steel. Try putting a magnet near one, if you like. ..... Phil |
#8
Posted to rec.audio.pro
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Best XLRs ?
On 4/06/2018 4:53 AM, Scott Dorsey wrote:
Phil Allison wrote: ** None are a strong as the old style, full metal ones with the saddle clamp. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XLR_co...connectors.jpg That's the Canon style ones. They were strong, BUT those screws were always working their way out and getting lost if you didn't locktite them. Yes, and I always wrapped colored tape over the connector and screws for cable identification anyway. Never got lost after that even if they came loose. Also the boot materials decayed. But not as quickly with canon as the cheap imitations. Trevor. |
#9
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Best XLRs ?
On 4/06/2018 8:56 PM, Trevor wrote:
On 4/06/2018 4:53 AM, Scott Dorsey wrote: Phil AllisonÂ* wrote: ** None are a strong as the old style, full metal ones with the saddle clamp. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XLR_co...connectors.jpg That's the Canon style ones.Â* They were strong, BUT those screws were always working their way out and getting lost if you didn't locktite them. Yes, and I always wrapped colored tape over the connector and screws for cable identification anyway. Never got lost after that even if they came loose. Also the boot materials decayed. But not as quickly with canon as the cheap imitations. Trevor. OK, just ordered 20 each M and F Switchcraft 'A' series. I assume nobody was talking about the 'quick' series ones ! Less than US$3 each at B&H. Yes, the odd Switchcraft I have had in the past has always requires a drip of Loctite . 90° XLRs sadly a 'can of worms' and added complication, given differing obstructions L and/or R on different monitor panels. And only lower the damage fulcrum (potentially more to the socket) by 50%ish anyway. geoff geoff |
#10
Posted to rec.audio.pro
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Best XLRs ?
Also the boot materials decayed.
On 6/4/2018 4:56 AM, Trevor wrote: But not as quickly with canon as the cheap imitations. I know we're not talking about Neutrik XLRs here, but I've, on occasion, over-tightened the "collet chuck" when trying to clamp a smaller diameter cable than they're apparently designed for, broken the plastic, and then the connector becomes useless. I never remember to ask if they sell replacements for that part. I should. I save the pieces, but usually that's the only part that breaks. -- For a good time, call http://mikeriversaudio.wordpress.com |
#11
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Best XLRs ?
geoff wrote:
OK, just ordered 20 each M and F Switchcraft 'A' series. I assume nobody was talking about the 'quick' series ones ! Less than US$3 each at B&H. In the US, the cheapest prices are usually through Markertek. B&H doesn't sound bad, though. Switchcraft gives huge discounts to some of these folks, while companies like Digi-Key that sell list have much higher prices. Yes, the odd Switchcraft I have had in the past has always requires a drip of Loctite . 90° XLRs sadly a 'can of worms' and added complication, given differing obstructions L and/or R on different monitor panels. And only lower the damage fulcrum (potentially more to the socket) by 50%ish anyway. It's true. But they can be a benefit if you're careful. --scott -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." |
#12
Posted to rec.audio.pro
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Best XLRs ?
On 5/06/2018 12:50 AM, Mike Rivers wrote:
Also the boot materials decayed. On 6/4/2018 4:56 AM, Trevor wrote: But not as quickly with canon as the cheap imitations. I know we're not talking about Neutrik XLRs here, but I've, on occasion, over-tightened the "collet chuck" when trying to clamp a smaller diameter cable than they're apparently designed for, broken the plastic, and then the connector becomes useless. I never remember to ask if they sell replacements for that part. I should. I save the pieces, but usually that's the only part that breaks. Neutik, Proel, Tasker - all the same sort of problem. The rubbery type either just pull out (often fixable) or split/tear (not fixable), while the harder plastic ones split/fracture. Yes I've wondered if the rear caps are available separately, but have never seen any suggestion anywhere that the are for any brand ... geoff |
#13
Posted to rec.audio.pro
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Best XLRs ?
geoff wrote:
OK, just ordered 20 each M and F Switchcraft 'A' series. I assume nobody was talking about the 'quick' series ones ! Less than US$3 each at B&H. Yes, the odd Switchcraft I have had in the past has always requires a drip of Loctite . ** FYI: This may be so for the two grub screws that compress the metal cable clamp - but the screw that holds the insert (in both versions) is reverse threaded and captured in the stainless steel housing. .... Phil |
#14
Posted to rec.audio.pro
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Best XLRs ?
On 4/06/2018 10:50 PM, Mike Rivers wrote:
I know we're not talking about Neutrik XLRs here, but I've, on occasion, over-tightened the "collet chuck" when trying to clamp a smaller diameter cable than they're apparently designed for, broken the plastic, and then the connector becomes useless. I never remember to ask if they sell replacements for that part. I should. I save the pieces, but usually that's the only part that breaks. Yep, hate those. But not only are they available here, but in various colors, which is great for cable identification. Just a PITA replacing them. Trevor. |
#15
Posted to rec.audio.pro
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Best XLRs ?
On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 8:50:58 AM UTC-4, Mike Rivers (that's me) wrote:
I know we're not talking about Neutrik XLRs here, but I've, on occasion, over-tightened the "collet chuck" when trying to clamp a smaller diameter cable than they're apparently designed for, broken the plastic, and then the connector becomes useless. I never remember to ask if they sell replacements for that part. I should. I save the pieces, but usually that's the only part that breaks. I remembered this discussion and stopped by the Neutrik booth at the Infocomm show this afternoon, asking if it was possible to buy the plastic clamp parts individually. They told me that some parts were available and that they only distribute them through Mouser Electronics. I made an attempt to look them up on mouser.com but there were too many things to sort out. But if you need them, it's probably worth a phone call and let them dig the parts out of the 694 listings for Neutrik XLR. |
#16
Posted to rec.audio.pro
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Best XLRs ?
geoff wrote:
Having a spate of XLRs with their rubber or plastic 'boot' strain-reliefs getting either simply pulled out of the shell, or worse ripped, split, whatever , but mostly irreparably damaged. Short of dumping my clumsy client-base, any suggestions of the best (and hopefully affordable) brand/model XLRs that can survive stage-use ? I think the worst use is on stage monitors where monitors get moved or cables tripped on... geoff I don't use much besides premade XLRs outside of the house any more, but I kind of like the Neutrik NC-FXX style. If it's not enough strain relief, add shrink tubing. -- Les Cargill |
#17
Posted to rec.audio.pro
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Best XLRs ?
On 9/06/2018 12:39 PM, Les Cargill wrote:
geoff wrote: Having a spate of XLRs with their rubber or plastic 'boot' strain-reliefs getting either simply pulled out of the shell, or worse ripped, split, whatever , but mostly irreparably damaged. Short of dumping my clumsy client-base, any suggestions of the best (and hopefully affordable) brand/model XLRs that can survive stage-use ? I think the worst use is on stage monitors where monitors get moved or cables tripped on... geoff I don't use much besides premade XLRs outside of the house any more, but I kind of like the Neutrik NC-FXX style. If it's not enough strain relief, add shrink tubing. Yeah have some of those. It's not a case of "not enough strain-relief, but of that existing strain-relief snapping off ! Some judicious heat-shrink might help, but I am hoping for something that just survives the rigours natively. geoff |
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