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alpine user alpine user is offline
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Question hu connection help

hey guys 2 other questions , the yellow wire on my 9884 alpine hu says connect to battery,i just connected to the hot wire that stays hot all the time behind the hu, should i connect it to the battery ? and if so should i use a 10 gauge wire?


next question is, i have a 77 corvette and the battery is right behind the drivers seat , right where my amp is setting and i ran the negative wire from the amp to the neg on battery, is that ok?
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Mister.Lull Mister.Lull is offline
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Posts: 143
Default hu connection help

....A different deck than the last question. Interesting...

The yellow wire from the HU will be fine connected to the constant
power wire that already exists (no need to run a wire directly to the
battery).

Wiring your amplifier directly to the battery should be fine - just
make sure the wires are as short as possible.

Next, etiquette:
Did your other question get answered in a satisfactory way? Please
let us know one way or the other.
Also, there's no need to start a new thread - you could have simply
gone off of the other one (after letting us know if your problem was
solved or not)...

~Mister.Lull

On Mar 20, 4:46*pm, alpine user
wrote:
hey guys 2 other questions , the yellow wire on my 9884 alpine hu says
connect to battery,i just connected to the hot wire that stays hot all
the time behind the hu, should i connect it to the battery ? and if so
should i use a 10 gauge wire?

next question is, * * i have a 77 corvette and the battery is right
behind the drivers seat , right where my amp is setting and i ran the
negative wire from the amp to the neg on battery, is that ok?

--
alpine user


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alpine user alpine user is offline
Junior Member
 
Posts: 7
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mister.Lull View Post
....A different deck than the last question. Interesting...

The yellow wire from the HU will be fine connected to the constant
power wire that already exists (no need to run a wire directly to the
battery).

Wiring your amplifier directly to the battery should be fine - just
make sure the wires are as short as possible.

Next, etiquette:
Did your other question get answered in a satisfactory way? Please
let us know one way or the other.
Also, there's no need to start a new thread - you could have simply
gone off of the other one (after letting us know if your problem was
solved or not)...

~Mister.Lull

On Mar 20, 4:46*pm, alpine user
wrote:
hey guys 2 other questions , the yellow wire on my 9884 alpine hu says
connect to battery,i just connected to the hot wire that stays hot all
the time behind the hu, should i connect it to the battery ? and if so
should i use a 10 gauge wire?

next question is, * * i have a 77 corvette and the battery is right
behind the drivers seat , right where my amp is setting and i ran the
negative wire from the amp to the neg on battery, is that ok?

--
alpine user
yes it did indeed help me out with the 7893 ,the stereo happens to be my sons that has a jeep grand cheerokee which has a internal amp.
now thank you for the help on my stereo which is the 9884.
I'm very sorry for starting a new thread.
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Posted to rec.audio.car
MOSFET MOSFET is offline
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Posts: 810
Default hu connection help


Wiring your amplifier directly to the battery should be fine - just
make sure the wires are as short as possible.


I totally agree. You can connect the negative connection of your amp
directly to your battery's negative post. You just have to make sure it is
connected with AT LEAST as thick a wire as your positive wire and as Lull
mentioned, as short as possible.

However, I suppose I should point out that unless the amp is litterally
sitting RIGHT NEXT TO THE BATTERY, you can likely save some money by using
the car's chassis as your return ground (as virtually all of us do) by
connecting a VERY thick (at least as thick as your positive cable) cable
from your negative terninal of the amp to an unpainted place on your chassis
as close to the amp as possible.

The reason I say this is that there is ABSOLUTELY, WITHOUT A DOUBT, no
larger return wire than the chassis of your car. USE IT!!!!, if you can.

ALSO, once the car is running you will be getting ALL your power from your
alternator, NOT THE BATTERY. Keep in mind, those who designed your car
probably did not expect someone to connected a large aftermarket amp to it.
What I'm saying is that once the car is running the return negative flow
must go to the alternator. THe car manufacturer likely did not use large
gauge cable to connect the neg. battery post to the chassis or engine block
(they, undoubtedly, used as thick a wire as was needed for normal,
non-aftermarket-gear-added, automotive use.

So by using large guage cable from the neg. connection of the amp to the
chassis of the car, you then don't have to worry about a poor negative
connection between the battery and chassis or engine block. By connecting
the amp's negative connection DIRECTLY to the chassis via large (thick)
wire, you ENSURE a good return of electrons back to both the battery (as I
mentioned), AND, MOST IMPORTANTLY, to the alternator when the car is
running. So for that reason alone, I might choose to use the chassis as a
return ground no matter how close the battery is to the amp.

As I've said a hundred times, we all know with unregulated amps the more
voltage in, the more potential wattage out. What people DON'T understand is
that voltage is not a measure of electrical flow (like watts). It is only a
measure of the difference between two electrical potentials, most often
positive and negative. Folks tend to focus ONLY on raising the positive
side by using capacitors, large gauge power wire, ext. But you can raise
voltage (and hence increase watts produced) by LOWERING the negative
potential. Again, as the car's body is the largest "wire" in the car, you
should definately take advantage of this fact as almost all power will come
from the alternator when the car is running and by attaching the neg. output
of your amp to the neg. battery post, you have NO IDEA how large the wire is
that goes from it to the engine block/negative input of the alternator.

It doesn't hurt to do both come to think of it. Connect one large guage
wire from the neg. terminal of the amp to the battery and another to the
car's chassis. This should ensure the lowest negative battery potential.

MOSFET


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alpine user alpine user is offline
Junior Member
 
Posts: 7
Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by MOSFET View Post
Wiring your amplifier directly to the battery should be fine - just
make sure the wires are as short as possible.


I totally agree. You can connect the negative connection of your amp
directly to your battery's negative post. You just have to make sure it is
connected with AT LEAST as thick a wire as your positive wire and as Lull
mentioned, as short as possible.

However, I suppose I should point out that unless the amp is litterally
sitting RIGHT NEXT TO THE BATTERY, you can likely save some money by using
the car's chassis as your return ground (as virtually all of us do) by
connecting a VERY thick (at least as thick as your positive cable) cable
from your negative terninal of the amp to an unpainted place on your chassis
as close to the amp as possible.

The reason I say this is that there is ABSOLUTELY, WITHOUT A DOUBT, no
larger return wire than the chassis of your car. USE IT!!!!, if you can.

ALSO, once the car is running you will be getting ALL your power from your
alternator, NOT THE BATTERY. Keep in mind, those who designed your car
probably did not expect someone to connected a large aftermarket amp to it.
What I'm saying is that once the car is running the return negative flow
must go to the alternator. THe car manufacturer likely did not use large
gauge cable to connect the neg. battery post to the chassis or engine block
(they, undoubtedly, used as thick a wire as was needed for normal,
non-aftermarket-gear-added, automotive use.

So by using large guage cable from the neg. connection of the amp to the
chassis of the car, you then don't have to worry about a poor negative
connection between the battery and chassis or engine block. By connecting
the amp's negative connection DIRECTLY to the chassis via large (thick)
wire, you ENSURE a good return of electrons back to both the battery (as I
mentioned), AND, MOST IMPORTANTLY, to the alternator when the car is
running. So for that reason alone, I might choose to use the chassis as a
return ground no matter how close the battery is to the amp.

As I've said a hundred times, we all know with unregulated amps the more
voltage in, the more potential wattage out. What people DON'T understand is
that voltage is not a measure of electrical flow (like watts). It is only a
measure of the difference between two electrical potentials, most often
positive and negative. Folks tend to focus ONLY on raising the positive
side by using capacitors, large gauge power wire, ext. But you can raise
voltage (and hence increase watts produced) by LOWERING the negative
potential. Again, as the car's body is the largest "wire" in the car, you
should definately take advantage of this fact as almost all power will come
from the alternator when the car is running and by attaching the neg. output
of your amp to the neg. battery post, you have NO IDEA how large the wire is
that goes from it to the engine block/negative input of the alternator.

It doesn't hurt to do both come to think of it. Connect one large guage
wire from the neg. terminal of the amp to the battery and another to the
car's chassis. This should ensure the lowest negative battery potential.

MOSFET
thanks MOSFET for the info


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Mister.Lull Mister.Lull is offline
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Posts: 143
Default hu connection help

Excellent!

I'm glad we got everything working!

:-)

~Mister.Lull

On Mar 21, 4:05*pm, alpine user
wrote:
Mister.Lull;862952 Wrote:





....A different deck than the last question. *Interesting...


The yellow wire from the HU will be fine connected to the constant
power wire that already exists (no need to run a wire directly to the
battery).


Wiring your amplifier directly to the battery should be fine - just
make sure the wires are as short as possible.


Next, etiquette:
Did your other question get answered in a satisfactory way? *Please
let us know one way or the other.
Also, there's no need to start a new thread - you could have simply
gone off of the other one (after letting us know if your problem was
solved or not)...


~Mister.Lull


On Mar 20, 4:46*pm, alpine user
wrote:-
hey guys 2 other questions , the yellow wire on my 9884 alpine hu

says
connect to battery,i just connected to the hot wire that stays hot

all
the time behind the hu, should i connect it to the battery ? and if

so
should i use a 10 gauge wire?


next question is, * * i have a 77 corvette and the battery is right
behind the drivers seat , right where my amp is setting and i ran

the
negative wire from the amp to the neg on battery, is that ok?


--
alpine user-


yes it did indeed help me out with the 7893 ,the stereo happens to be
my sons that has a jeep grand cheerokee which has a internal amp.
now thank you for the help on my stereo which is the 9884.
I'm very sorry for starting a new thread.

--
alpine user- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


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