[Eric B]

I am planning to burn a number of CDs and want to make sure they are
done right. Is there a compelling reason to have them commercially
burned rather than making them at home. I have used many types of CD
media and have given up on cheapies. Are commercial blanks any
different than than the writable CDs available in 100s. I have
occasionally run into playback machines that won't recognize my 1 off
copies. Do I need to buy CDA blanks or is there CD authoring code that
I am missing?
My question is more about the burners. What makes a CD burner good? Is
the one in my Mac Book OK? Is the one in the Alesis Masterlink any
better. Are commercial burners better? If so how so? I have access to
a printer/ burner, I forget the brand, but I know it is quirky to
use.
Obviously, for thousands I want someone else to do it. I am talking
about a run of 50 or so, but I want the quality to be as good as
possible. I will appreciate any knowledgeable advice or the subject.
It's all about the music!
Eric Blackmer
PS Happy Solstice Celebration of your choice!!

[Richard Crowley]

"Eric B" wrote ...
I am planning to burn a number of CDs and want to make sure they are
done right. Is there a compelling reason to have them commercially
burned rather than making them at home.

If you need copies fast, or if $$ is no object, or if you need too
many copies to burn yourself, or if you need fancy printing and/
or packaging, send it out.

I have used many types of CD
media and have given up on cheapies.

I use exclusively the top-rated brand (Taiyo-Yuden).
The cost literally only a few pennies more than the cheapies,
and they are extremely reliable. I've burned likely over 1000
CDR and DVDR discs without a single return from a customer
who couldn't play it. The tiny extra cost is more than worth the
hassle dealing with returns.

Note that many brands available on retail shelves are only
"marketing labels" by companies who have never made a
single disk. THey OEM discs from the cheapest vendor
and you have no idea what you are getting from month to
month. Might be great, and might be junk. T-Y makes their
own product and you can depend on getting the good stuff.

There are some burning programs and disk utilities that will
read and display the molded-in manufacturer's code. But
note that some junk disks have counterfeit codes from
reputable companies.

Are commercial blanks any
different than than the writable CDs available in 100s.

Not really. Perhaps the commercial operations have run the
eperiments to see which brands/types produce best results
with their equipment.

I have
occasionally run into playback machines that won't recognize my 1 off
copies. Do I need to buy CDA blanks or is there CD authoring code that
I am missing?

No. CDA blanks are only different in two ways: They have a code
molded into the disk which confirms that you have paid the extra
taxes (which assume you are making illegal copies of copyright
content). And CDA blanks may be optimized for lower writing
speeds. CDA audio recorders record at 1x and you likely can't
buy standard CDR data disks that will write at that speed anymore.

My question is more about the burners. What makes a CD burner good? Is
the one in my Mac Book OK? Is the one in the Alesis Masterlink any
better. Are commercial burners better? If so how so? I have access to
a printer/ burner, I forget the brand, but I know it is quirky to
use.

You would likey see a bigger difference between burning at
lower speds (vs. the max possible speed) than between different
brands/models of hardware.

Obviously, for thousands I want someone else to do it. I am talking
about a run of 50 or so, but I want the quality to be as good as
possible. I will appreciate any knowledgeable advice or the subject.

Whether I'm burning audio or video discs, the same rules work for
me: Use the highest-quality dsiscs (Taiyo-Yuden). Buy them from
a reliable dealer to avoid counterfeits (SuperMediaStore works for
me). Burn at the lowest practical speed to maximize contrast in
the burned image. (10-12x for audio, and 4-6x for video works
for me).

There is much info out on the internet about burning discs (both
audio and video). About optimizing burning contrast, about
measuring error rates, etc. etc. About which drive brands and
models are best, etc. I have found these valuable...
http://www.digitalfaq.com/media/dvdmedia.htm
http://www.digitalfaq.com/dvdguides/...s/buymedia.htm
I have found that the same source of reliable DVDRs (namely
Taiyo-Yuden) also makes the most reliable CDRs.

It's all about the music!
Eric Blackmer
PS Happy Solstice Celebration of your choice!!

Merry Christmas.

[Paul Stamler[_2_]]

"Richard Crowley" wrote in message
...

No. CDA blanks are only different in two ways: They have a code
molded into the disk which confirms that you have paid the extra
taxes (which assume you are making illegal copies of copyright
content). And CDA blanks may be optimized for lower writing
speeds. CDA audio recorders record at 1x and you likely can't
buy standard CDR data disks that will write at that speed anymore.

I find Taiyo Yuden CDR data disks work fine in the Tascam real-time (1x)
recorders at the radio station.

Peace,
Paul

[nebulax]

On Dec 24, 9:47*am, "Richard Crowley" wrote:
"Eric B" *wrote ...

I am planning to burn a number of CDs and want to make sure they are
done right. Is there a compelling reason to have them commercially
burned rather than making them at home.

If you need copies fast, or if $$ is no object, or if you need too
many copies to burn yourself, or if you need fancy printing and/
or packaging, send it out.

I have used many types of CD
media and have given up on cheapies.

I use exclusively the top-rated brand (Taiyo-Yuden).
The cost literally only a few pennies more than the cheapies,
and they are extremely reliable. *I've burned likely over 1000
CDR and DVDR discs without a single return from a customer
who couldn't play it. The tiny extra cost is more than worth the
hassle dealing with returns.

Note that many brands available on retail shelves are only
"marketing labels" by companies who have never made a
single disk. *THey OEM discs from the cheapest vendor
and you have no idea what you are getting from month to
month. Might be great, *and might be junk. *T-Y makes their
own product and you can depend on getting the good stuff.

There are some burning programs and disk utilities that will
read and display the molded-in manufacturer's code. But
note that some junk disks have counterfeit codes from
reputable companies.

Are commercial blanks any
different than than the writable CDs available in 100s.

Not really. Perhaps the commercial operations have run the
eperiments to see which brands/types produce best results
with their equipment.

I have
occasionally run into playback machines that won't recognize my 1 off
copies. Do I need to buy CDA blanks or is there CD authoring code that
I am missing?

No. CDA blanks are only different in two ways: They have a code
molded into the disk which confirms that you have paid the extra
taxes (which assume you are making illegal copies of copyright
content). And CDA blanks may be optimized for lower writing
speeds. *CDA audio recorders record at 1x and you likely can't
buy standard CDR data disks that will write at that speed anymore.

My question is more about the burners. What makes a CD burner good? Is
the one in my Mac Book OK? Is the one in the Alesis Masterlink any
better. Are commercial burners better? If so how so? I have access to
a printer/ burner, I forget the brand, but I know it is quirky to
use.

You would likey see a bigger difference between burning at
lower speds (vs. the max possible speed) than between different
brands/models of hardware.

Obviously, for thousands I want someone else to do it. I am talking
about a run of 50 or so, but I want the quality to be as good as
possible. I will appreciate any knowledgeable advice or the subject.

Whether I'm burning audio or video discs, the same rules work for
me: Use the highest-quality dsiscs (Taiyo-Yuden). Buy them from
a reliable dealer to avoid counterfeits (SuperMediaStore works for
me). *Burn at the lowest practical speed to maximize contrast in
the burned image. (10-12x for audio, and 4-6x for video works
for me).

There is much info out on the internet about burning discs (both
audio and video). About optimizing burning contrast, about
measuring error rates, etc. etc. *About which drive brands and
models are best, etc. I have found these valuable...http://www.digitalfaq..com/media/dvd...s/buymedia.htm
I have found that the same source of reliable DVDRs (namely
Taiyo-Yuden) also makes the most reliable CDRs.

It's all about the music!
Eric Blackmer
PS Happy Solstice Celebration of your choice!!

Merry Christmas.


I also recommend Taiyo-Yuden, and some other brands I've had suggested
to me include: Mitsui (or MAM-A), Verbatim, Ritek Ridata, and Kodak
Gold Preservation. Generally, stay away from any discs made in China
and Taiwan (if possible), and don't be fooled by seeing the old
reliable cassette brands (TDK, Maxell, Fuji) on a CD-R, because they
generally don't make their own discs now, anyway.

[jwvm]

On Dec 24, 8:13*am, Eric B wrote:
I am planning to burn a number of CDs and want to make sure they are
done right. Is there a compelling reason to have them commercially
burned rather than making them at home. I have used many types of CD
media and have given up on cheapies. Are commercial blanks any
different than than the writable CDs available in 100s. I have
occasionally run into playback machines that won't recognize my 1 off
copies. Do I need to buy CDA blanks or is there CD authoring code that
I am missing?
My question is more about the burners. What makes a CD burner good? Is
the one in my Mac Book OK? Is the one in the Alesis Masterlink any
better. Are commercial burners better? If so how so? I have access to
a printer/ burner, I forget the brand, but I know it is quirky to
use.
Obviously, for thousands I want someone else to do it. I am talking
about a run of 50 or so, but I want the quality to be as good as
possible. I will appreciate any knowledgeable advice or the subject.
It's all about the music!
Eric Blackmer
PS Happy Solstice Celebration of your choice!!

As others have suggested here, Taiyo Yuden CDRs are what you want to
use. They will work in almost any newer player including automobile CD
players. Most newer burners also appear to work well with this brand
and will also report C1 and C2 errors to provide a reasonable measure
of burn quality. Lite-On drives work well and Newegg has one model for
about $17. BTW, you can download cdspeed he

http://www.cdspeed2000.com/download.html

By running a quality test, you can see if your present burner reports
these errors.

[Norbert Hahn[_2_]]

nebulax wrote:

I also recommend Taiyo-Yuden, and some other brands I've had suggested
to me include: Mitsui (or MAM-A),

Mitsui was a good name, but I don't know anything about MAM-A or MAM-E.

Verbatim

Verbatim Super AZO (Data Life Plus) is made by Mitsubishi Chemical
Corporation (MCC). Other Verbatim Super AZO may be MCC or may be a
different manufacturer. It can be identifed by the reorder code
printed on the spindle. MCC is good name.

Ritek Ridata,

are sold with the name Maxell, Memorex and other names.

and Kodak
Gold Preservation.

Has Kodak resumed their good old product?

Generally, stay away from any discs made in China
and Taiwan (if possible),

.... and India.

and don't be fooled by seeing the old
reliable cassette brands (TDK, Maxell, Fuji) on a CD-R, because they
generally don't make their own discs now, anyway.

TDK is one of the names that Taiyo-Yuden uses for their products.
Unfortunately the name TDK is found on CDs made by Ritek and other
manufacturers.

A good shop shows the manufacturer name along with the name printed
on the product. I buy CDs from
http://www.damrotech.com/index.php?cPath=12&language=en
which is located in Luxemburg, Europe.

Norbert

[Geoff]

Norbert Hahn wrote:


TDK is one of the names that Taiyo-Yuden uses for their products.
Unfortunately the name TDK is found on CDs made by Ritek and other
manufacturers.

Norbert, You got things a bit arse-about-face.

Taiyo Yuden does "use the name TDK". The comapny that own s the brand TDK
buys discs from Taiyo Yuden, as do other brands.

geoff

[nebulax]

On Dec 26, 7:34*pm, "Geoff" wrote:
Norbert Hahn wrote:
TDK is one of the names that Taiyo-Yuden uses for their products.
Unfortunately the name TDK is found on CDs made by Ritek and other
manufacturers.

Norbert, You got things a bit arse-about-face.

Taiyo Yuden does "use the name TDK". *The comapny that own s the brand TDK
buys discs from Taiyo Yuden, as do other brands.

geoff



The TDK discs I bought were not Taiyo Yuden sourced, so caveat emptor.

-Neb

[Geoff]

nebulax wrote:
On Dec 26, 7:34 pm, "Geoff" wrote:
Norbert Hahn wrote:
TDK is one of the names that Taiyo-Yuden uses for their products.
Unfortunately the name TDK is found on CDs made by Ritek and other
manufacturers.

Norbert, You got things a bit arse-about-face.

Taiyo Yuden does "use the name TDK". The comapny that own s the
brand TDK buys discs from Taiyo Yuden, as do other brands.

geoff



The TDK discs I bought were not Taiyo Yuden sourced, so caveat emptor.


I didn't say 'exclusively' anywhere, did I ?

Empty your own caveat ! ;-)

geoff

[Richard Crowley]

"Norbert Hahn" wrote ...
Ritek Ridata,
are sold with the name Maxell, Memorex and other names.
......
TDK is one of the names that Taiyo-Yuden uses for their products.
Unfortunately the name TDK is found on CDs made by Ritek and other
manufacturers.

Not exactly. There are lots of famous names (Maxell, Memorex,
TDK, et.al.) who OEM discs from various vendors from month
to month (depending on who can supply their order for the best
price that month, etc.)

(OEM means that the "label" buys discs from the factory and has
the factory put the "label"s name on the discs as if the "label" made
them.)

So when you buy one of those labels, you must just might
get lucky and end up with discs that were OEM'ed from T-Y,
but you have a much better chance of getting discs from some
other vendor, maybe even one of the trash brands. You are
gambling every time you buy a spindle of discs with the name
of a non-manufacturer on them.

Taiyo-Yuden does NOT "use" any other names to sell discs
except their own name on their own discs. T-Y OEMs discs
to other people with other names on them, but those other
brands buy discs from other vendors besides T-Y.

If you want genuine T-Y, then buy "Taiyo-Yuden" from a
reputabale dealer who won't sell you counterfeit T-Y discs.
Anything else is a lesser brand or a random brand.

and don't be fooled by seeing the old
reliable cassette brands (TDK, Maxell, Fuji) on a CD-R, because they
generally don't make their own discs now, anyway.

Exactly. You might get lucky and get a good spindle of discs,
but you also might get a spindle of coasters. Simply not worth
the gamble IMHO. YMMV.

[nebulax]

On Dec 26, 11:51*pm, "Geoff" wrote:
nebulax wrote:
On Dec 26, 7:34 pm, "Geoff" wrote:
Norbert Hahn wrote:
TDK is one of the names that Taiyo-Yuden uses for their products.
Unfortunately the name TDK is found on CDs made by Ritek and other
manufacturers.

Norbert, You got things a bit arse-about-face.

Taiyo Yuden does "use the name TDK". The comapny that own s the
brand TDK buys discs from Taiyo Yuden, as do other brands.

geoff

The TDK discs I bought were not Taiyo Yuden sourced, so caveat emptor.

I didn't say 'exclusively' anywhere, did I ?

Empty your own caveat ! *;-)

geoff


No, you didn't say 'exclusively', and I didn't say 'never'.

Q.E.D.! ;-}

-Neb