[mcp6453[_2_]]

As I posted in a prior thread, I'm beginning to archive my cassette library. The
first project is complete, but it was very painful. The cassettes would randomly
start squealing mechanically. The noise was picked up by the head and
superimposed on the audio. Exercising the tape a few times reduces the tendency
to squeal, for a better word.

The cassette was transferred to a brand new, high-quality, 5-screw cassette
shell. It still squeals on occasion.

What causes the squeal, and what gets rid of it other than fast forwarding and
rewinding the tape a few times? I can't imagine the tape needs baking.

[[email protected]]

mcp6453 wrote:
: What causes the squeal, and what gets rid of it other than fast forwarding
: and rewinding the tape a few times? I can't imagine the tape needs baking.

Hmm, I was going to suggest sticky shed. Baked a few myself.

[Scott Dorsey]

In article ,
mcp6453 wrote:
As I posted in a prior thread, I'm beginning to archive my cassette library. The
first project is complete, but it was very painful. The cassettes would randomly
start squealing mechanically. The noise was picked up by the head and
superimposed on the audio. Exercising the tape a few times reduces the tendency
to squeal, for a better word.

The cassette was transferred to a brand new, high-quality, 5-screw cassette
shell. It still squeals on occasion.

What causes the squeal, and what gets rid of it other than fast forwarding and
rewinding the tape a few times? I can't imagine the tape needs baking.

It's not sticky shed, it's a loss of lubricant problem.

http://www.richardhess.com/tape/hist...urnal_39-2.pdf

For cassettes, the fast forward and rewind is probably the best solution if
it works. I have used silicone on the heads at times too. The less
non-rotating surface area in contact with the tape, the worse a given cassette
deck will be in these situations.

Pelon fabric is great for dealing with it on open reel tapes but it's hard to
get it in there on the cassette machine.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

[mcp6453[_2_]]

On 12/22/2011 5:44 PM, Scott Dorsey wrote:
In article ,
mcp6453 wrote:
As I posted in a prior thread, I'm beginning to archive my cassette library. The
first project is complete, but it was very painful. The cassettes would randomly
start squealing mechanically. The noise was picked up by the head and
superimposed on the audio. Exercising the tape a few times reduces the tendency
to squeal, for a better word.

The cassette was transferred to a brand new, high-quality, 5-screw cassette
shell. It still squeals on occasion.

What causes the squeal, and what gets rid of it other than fast forwarding and
rewinding the tape a few times? I can't imagine the tape needs baking.

It's not sticky shed, it's a loss of lubricant problem.

http://www.richardhess.com/tape/hist...urnal_39-2.pdf

For cassettes, the fast forward and rewind is probably the best solution if
it works. I have used silicone on the heads at times too. The less
non-rotating surface area in contact with the tape, the worse a given cassette
deck will be in these situations.

Pelon fabric is great for dealing with it on open reel tapes but it's hard to
get it in there on the cassette machine.
--scott

Is the Dragon going to deal with this problem better than these consumer units
are doing?

[Scott Dorsey]

mcp6453 wrote:
On 12/22/2011 5:44 PM, Scott Dorsey wrote:

Pelon fabric is great for dealing with it on open reel tapes but it's hard to
get it in there on the cassette machine.

Is the Dragon going to deal with this problem better than these consumer units
are doing?

Damned if I know! Let me know when you try it!
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

[Peter Larsen[_3_]]

Scott Dorsey wrote:

In article ,
mcp6453 wrote:

It's not sticky shed, it's a loss of lubricant problem.

http://www.richardhess.com/tape/hist...urnal_39-2.pdf

For cassettes, the fast forward and rewind is probably the best
solution if it works. I have used silicone on the heads at times
too. The less non-rotating surface area in contact with the tape,
the worse a given cassette deck will be in these situations.

I've had some cassettes that developed this problem in very few years in the
1980's. Strangely it almost appears that cheap tapes last best ... and BASF
always just works, R2R too.

Pelon fabric is great for dealing with it on open reel tapes but it's
hard to get it in there on the cassette machine.

What is "Pelon fabric"? - explanatory link if available please!

Would it be possible to re-lubricate the foils on each side of the
tape-pack?

--scott

Kind regards

Peter Larsen

[Scott Dorsey]

Peter Larsen wrote:

What is "Pelon fabric"? - explanatory link if available please!

It's some sort of silicone-impregnated fabric that is used for interlinings
on clothing. Go to your local fabric store and ask for the stuff that goes
inside waistbands on pants. In the US everybody calls it "pelon" since that
is a popular brand, but they may call it something else in the UK.

Would it be possible to re-lubricate the foils on each side of the
tape-pack?

Don't, just replace them.

My tendency when there is anything wrong with the shell is to pull the tape
out, and transplant the hubs and the tape into a brand new SHAPE shell.
The SHAPE brand shells have pretty precise injection molding, stainless
steel inserts for the rollers, and graphite-impregnated slip sheets.
You used to be able to get them from anyone who did cassette duplication
work.

Unfortunately the plastic they used combined with the tighter tolerances
meant that the SHAPE shells would fail if left for a few days in a hot
car in the sun, so they were no good for release cassettes.

When you do the transplant the effective azimuth will change dramatically,
so the correct playback setting won't be the same as the original tape.
Not a problem, just something to expect.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

[mcp6453[_2_]]

On 12/24/2011 12:54 PM, Scott Dorsey wrote:
Peter Larsen wrote:

What is "Pelon fabric"? - explanatory link if available please!

It's some sort of silicone-impregnated fabric that is used for interlinings
on clothing. Go to your local fabric store and ask for the stuff that goes
inside waistbands on pants. In the US everybody calls it "pelon" since that
is a popular brand, but they may call it something else in the UK.

Would it be possible to re-lubricate the foils on each side of the
tape-pack?

Don't, just replace them.

My tendency when there is anything wrong with the shell is to pull the tape
out, and transplant the hubs and the tape into a brand new SHAPE shell.
The SHAPE brand shells have pretty precise injection molding, stainless
steel inserts for the rollers, and graphite-impregnated slip sheets.
You used to be able to get them from anyone who did cassette duplication
work.

Unfortunately the plastic they used combined with the tighter tolerances
meant that the SHAPE shells would fail if left for a few days in a hot
car in the sun, so they were no good for release cassettes.

When you do the transplant the effective azimuth will change dramatically,
so the correct playback setting won't be the same as the original tape.
Not a problem, just something to expect.
--scott



If anyone finds any SHAPE shells, I'd love to have one or more.

[Scott Dorsey]

mcp6453 wrote:

If anyone finds any SHAPE shells, I'd love to have one or more.

Tape Warehouse in Atlanta stocks them, but if you email me an address I
will drop some misloaded ones into the mail. I have a box left over from
bin mastering work....
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

[glenn taylor]

On Dec 24, 8:42*pm, (Scott Dorsey) wrote:
mcp6453 wrote:

If anyone finds any SHAPE shells, I'd love to have one or more.

Tape Warehouse in Atlanta stocks them, but if you email me an address I
will drop some misloaded ones into the mail. * I have a box left over from
bin mastering work....
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

I have baked a few tapes mostly 1/2" and 1/4". Only a few cassettes.
In my try with one cassette I had the heat a little too high and the
shell melted. I thought I am a dead man. Very fortunately for me the
tape was baked ok and I put it in a new shell and transfered it with
no problems. Usually my old cassettes from the 1970's loose the highs
GT.

[Edi Zubovic]

On Mon, 26 Dec 2011 20:44:18 -0800 (PST), glenn taylor
wrote:

On Dec 24, 8:42*pm, (Scott Dorsey) wrote:
mcp6453 wrote:

If anyone finds any SHAPE shells, I'd love to have one or more.

Tape Warehouse in Atlanta stocks them, but if you email me an address I
will drop some misloaded ones into the mail. * I have a box left over from
bin mastering work....
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

I have baked a few tapes mostly 1/2" and 1/4". Only a few cassettes.
In my try with one cassette I had the heat a little too high and the
shell melted. I thought I am a dead man. Very fortunately for me the
tape was baked ok and I put it in a new shell and transfered it with
no problems. Usually my old cassettes from the 1970's loose the highs
GT.
-If a cassette shell isn't fused together, why not disassemble the
casssette and bake the tape only? Anyway, I've transferred recently
some 70 reel-to-reel tapes, some of them again after 10 years. I've
noticed that even those which have been winding perfectly 10 years ago
such as BASF DPR 26, now show signs of shedding. Usually all tapes
with dark brown or black backing are problematic. I remember reading
an article from a tape specialist who blames carbon black and not
urethane for sticky shed syndrome.OK, I blame both of the substances.
He claims that he can mend a problematic tape by scraping off it's
back coating. I know for a machine used in data tape technology for
cleaning and actually scraping the tape to a preset amount by a
precise saphyre knife -- maybe the man is using just that.

As to cassette tapes, I wonder if there was any reel-to reel model
other than Nagra SN which would be made or modified exclusively for
cassette tape transfer. I think there isn't any.

I'm still using my old Technics RS-AZ 7 dor cassette transfer. While
build pretty flimsy at the first sight, it is actually working well
and it's thin-film reproduce head system is a wholly different thing
compared to anything else (the only DCC reproduce system except in
Technics RS-AZ 6 and Philips prototypes). Azimuth correction is
possible but not recommended for every single tape as the azimuth
screw is in plastic -- too flimsy, as I said.

Edi Zubovic, Crikvenica, Croatia

[Arny Krueger[_4_]]

"Edi Zubovic" edi.zubovic[rem wrote in message
...

-If a cassette shell isn't fused together, why not disassemble the
casssette and bake the tape only?

Most authorities ascribe sticky shed to the absorption of moisture, which
can be effectively reversed by exposure to only a relatively modest
temperature rise.

I have decades of experience with removing moisture from delicate
substances, AKA as dehydrating foods and spices. Most food dehydrators heat
to a maximum of 140 degrees which is insufficient to damage any of the
plastics commonly used in cassette tape shells. Most authorities say that
130 degrees is entirely sufficient for baking tape.

http://audio-restoration.com/baking.php

Most problems with tape baking arise from using common kitchen ovens, which
are generally not designed to accurately maintain temperatures this low. The
tape becomes overheated and the cassette shell is the first to show
appreciable signs of damage. The tape, usually being on a Mylar base, is far
harder to damage.

The key to maintaining stable temperatures in this range is the use of a
thermometer. Most ordinary household thermometers and indoor-outdoor are
effective at temperatures up to 140 degrees. The cheap dial thermometers
that are used for monitoring HVAC and automotive temperatures are also
effective in this range.

If you are patient, it is probable that even lower temperatures than 130
degrees could be effective for tape baking. After all, all you are trying to
do is drive off moisture that was accumulated at room temperature.

[hank alrich]

Arny Krueger wrote:

"Edi Zubovic" edi.zubovic[rem wrote in message
...

-If a cassette shell isn't fused together, why not disassemble the
casssette and bake the tape only?

Most authorities ascribe sticky shed to the absorption of moisture, which
can be effectively reversed by exposure to only a relatively modest
temperature rise.

I have decades of experience with removing moisture from delicate
substances, AKA as dehydrating foods and spices. Most food dehydrators heat
to a maximum of 140 degrees which is insufficient to damage any of the
plastics commonly used in cassette tape shells. Most authorities say that
130 degrees is entirely sufficient for baking tape.

http://audio-restoration.com/baking.php

Most problems with tape baking arise from using common kitchen ovens, which
are generally not designed to accurately maintain temperatures this low. The
tape becomes overheated and the cassette shell is the first to show
appreciable signs of damage. The tape, usually being on a Mylar base, is far
harder to damage.

The key to maintaining stable temperatures in this range is the use of a
thermometer. Most ordinary household thermometers and indoor-outdoor are
effective at temperatures up to 140 degrees. The cheap dial thermometers
that are used for monitoring HVAC and automotive temperatures are also
effective in this range.

If you are patient, it is probable that even lower temperatures than 130
degrees could be effective for tape baking. After all, all you are trying to
do is drive off moisture that was accumulated at room temperature.

Yep. I know a couple of folks who have dehydrated tapes by placing them
in the oven of an electric stove and turning on the light, but not the
oven. They left the tapes in the oven for roughly 24 hours.

--
shut up and play your guitar * http://hankalrich.com/
http://www.youtube.com/walkinaymusic
http://www.sonicbids.com/HankandShaidri

[[email protected]]

I use the American Harvest food dehydrator recommended on the
Tangible Technology website. When I visited BAVC (Bay Area Video
Coalition), I noticed that's what they were using too. It's very
gentle, has a built-in rack that is the exact right size, is cheap,
and can be run for days if necessary. It doesn't build up any
noticeable heat because it blows the heat out the top.

hank alrich wrote:
: Arny Krueger wrote:
: "Edi Zubovic" edi.zubovic[rem wrote in message
: ...
:
: -If a cassette shell isn't fused together, why not disassemble the
: casssette and bake the tape only?
:
: Most authorities ascribe sticky shed to the absorption of moisture, which
: can be effectively reversed by exposure to only a relatively modest
: temperature rise.
:
: I have decades of experience with removing moisture from delicate
: substances, AKA as dehydrating foods and spices. Most food dehydrators heat
: to a maximum of 140 degrees which is insufficient to damage any of the
: plastics commonly used in cassette tape shells. Most authorities say that
: 130 degrees is entirely sufficient for baking tape.
:
: http://audio-restoration.com/baking.php
:
: Most problems with tape baking arise from using common kitchen ovens, which
: are generally not designed to accurately maintain temperatures this low. The
: tape becomes overheated and the cassette shell is the first to show
: appreciable signs of damage. The tape, usually being on a Mylar base, is far
: harder to damage.

: The key to maintaining stable temperatures in this range is the use of a
: thermometer. Most ordinary household thermometers and indoor-outdoor are
: effective at temperatures up to 140 degrees. The cheap dial thermometers
: that are used for monitoring HVAC and automotive temperatures are also
: effective in this range.
:
: If you are patient, it is probable that even lower temperatures than 130
: degrees could be effective for tape baking. After all, all you are trying to
: do is drive off moisture that was accumulated at room temperature.

: Yep. I know a couple of folks who have dehydrated tapes by placing them
: in the oven of an electric stove and turning on the light, but not the
: oven. They left the tapes in the oven for roughly 24 hours.

: --
: shut up and play your guitar * http://hankalrich.com/
: http://www.youtube.com/walkinaymusic
: http://www.sonicbids.com/HankandShaidri

[Scott Dorsey]

glenn taylor wrote:

I have baked a few tapes mostly 1/2" and 1/4". Only a few cassettes.
In my try with one cassette I had the heat a little too high and the
shell melted. I thought I am a dead man. Very fortunately for me the
tape was baked ok and I put it in a new shell and transfered it with
no problems.

Odds are that your problem was fixed by putting it in a new shell, and the
baking didn't really do much. Often you will get squealies from shell
problems.

Usually my old cassettes from the 1970's loose the highs
GT.

That's because the azimuth is all wrong. You have to adjust properly for
every tape, every time.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

[Scott Dorsey]

Edi Zubovic edi.zubovic[rem wrote:

-If a cassette shell isn't fused together, why not disassemble the
casssette and bake the tape only?

Because cassettes don't have sticky-shed problems.

Anyway, I've transferred recently
some 70 reel-to-reel tapes, some of them again after 10 years. I've
noticed that even those which have been winding perfectly 10 years ago
such as BASF DPR 26, now show signs of shedding. Usually all tapes
with dark brown or black backing are problematic. I remember reading
an article from a tape specialist who blames carbon black and not
urethane for sticky shed syndrome.OK, I blame both of the substances.
He claims that he can mend a problematic tape by scraping off it's
back coating. I know for a machine used in data tape technology for
cleaning and actually scraping the tape to a preset amount by a
precise saphyre knife -- maybe the man is using just that.

That would be Charles Richardson with the backcoating removal procedure.
He is generally not very well regarded in the field. Removing the backcoating
does eliminate half of the stickiness problem, but it leaves the other half
there.

As to cassette tapes, I wonder if there was any reel-to reel model
other than Nagra SN which would be made or modified exclusively for
cassette tape transfer. I think there isn't any.

I have seen ATR-100 machines with cassette-style heads for playing back tapes
from the SN, and I suppose if you were sufficiently crazy you could use such
a thing for cassette playback. That eliminates the shell issues and the tiny
capstan issues on playback anyway, but I cannot imagine it would be worth it.

I'm still using my old Technics RS-AZ 7 dor cassette transfer. While
build pretty flimsy at the first sight, it is actually working well
and it's thin-film reproduce head system is a wholly different thing
compared to anything else (the only DCC reproduce system except in
Technics RS-AZ 6 and Philips prototypes). Azimuth correction is
possible but not recommended for every single tape as the azimuth
screw is in plastic -- too flimsy, as I said.

That's easy to remedy with a little machine shop work and a vernier micrometer
handle.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

[Scott Dorsey]

Arny Krueger wrote:
"Edi Zubovic" edi.zubovic[rem wrote in message
.. .

-If a cassette shell isn't fused together, why not disassemble the
casssette and bake the tape only?

Most authorities ascribe sticky shed to the absorption of moisture, which
can be effectively reversed by exposure to only a relatively modest
temperature rise.

Urethane chains fragment -- shorter, hygroscopic chains are formed --
moisture is absorbed -- tape turns to goo.

Same mechanism that causes speaker surrounds to turn to goo, and causes
urethane pinch rollers to turn to goo.

Baking can remove moisture, but it doesn't fix the inherent problem of
the urethane breakdown.

This is not an issue for cassettes which never adopted those binder
chemistries, though.

If you are patient, it is probable that even lower temperatures than 130
degrees could be effective for tape baking. After all, all you are trying to
do is drive off moisture that was accumulated at room temperature.

Folks have also used freeze-drying and vacuum extraction. Both are slower
than baking with little practical advantage, but they work.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

[Edi Zubovic]

On 27 Dec 2011 10:40:30 -0500, (Scott Dorsey) wrote:

-------------8-------------
Usually my old cassettes from the 1970's loose the highs
GT.

That's because the azimuth is all wrong. You have to adjust properly for
every tape, every time.
--scott
Are the heads and tape path demagnetized properly? ---- at Technics
RS-AZ7 and 6, demagnetizing the heads would kill them instantly. On
all other playback equiment, this has to be done after cleaning them
for the first time and in longer intervals thereafter.


Edi Zubovic, Crikvenica, Croatia

[William Sommerwerck]

Usually my old cassettes from the 1970's lose the highs.

This isn't just an azimuth problem. It can also be caused by self-erasure.

[hank alrich]

wrote:

I use the American Harvest food dehydrator recommended on the
Tangible Technology website. When I visited BAVC (Bay Area Video
Coalition), I noticed that's what they were using too. It's very
gentle, has a built-in rack that is the exact right size, is cheap,
and can be run for days if necessary. It doesn't build up any
noticeable heat because it blows the heat out the top.

Correct, and that air circulation also helps remove moisture from the
dehydrator.

hank alrich wrote:
: Arny Krueger wrote:
: "Edi Zubovic" edi.zubovic[rem wrote in message
: ...
:
: -If a cassette shell isn't fused together, why not disassemble the
: casssette and bake the tape only?
:
: Most authorities ascribe sticky shed to the absorption of moisture, which
: can be effectively reversed by exposure to only a relatively modest
: temperature rise.
:
: I have decades of experience with removing moisture from delicate
: substances, AKA as dehydrating foods and spices. Most food dehydrators
: heat to a maximum of 140 degrees which is insufficient to damage any
: of the plastics commonly used in cassette tape shells. Most
: authorities say that 130 degrees is entirely sufficient for baking
: tape.
:
: http://audio-restoration.com/baking.php
:
: Most problems with tape baking arise from using common kitchen ovens,
: which are generally not designed to accurately maintain temperatures
: this low. The tape becomes overheated and the cassette shell is the
: first to show appreciable signs of damage. The tape, usually being on
: a Mylar base, is far harder to damage.

: The key to maintaining stable temperatures in this range is the use of
: a thermometer. Most ordinary household thermometers and indoor-outdoor
: are effective at temperatures up to 140 degrees. The cheap dial
: thermometers that are used for monitoring HVAC and automotive
: temperatures are also effective in this range.
:
: If you are patient, it is probable that even lower temperatures than
: 130 degrees could be effective for tape baking. After all, all you are
: trying to do is drive off moisture that was accumulated at room
: temperature.

: Yep. I know a couple of folks who have dehydrated tapes by placing them
: in the oven of an electric stove and turning on the light, but not the
: oven. They left the tapes in the oven for roughly 24 hours.

--
shut up and play your guitar * http://hankalrich.com/
http://www.youtube.com/walkinaymusic
http://www.sonicbids.com/HankandShaidri

[Arny Krueger[_4_]]

wrote in message
...
I use the American Harvest food dehydrator recommended on the
Tangible Technology website. When I visited BAVC (Bay Area Video
Coalition), I noticed that's what they were using too. It's very
gentle, has a built-in rack that is the exact right size, is cheap,
and can be run for days if necessary. It doesn't build up any
noticeable heat because it blows the heat out the top.

Seems like a good application. You get fine control over temperature and
lots of air circulation. Our dehydrator is an ancient Excalibur with 9
trays - it must be old enough to drive! ;-) It is a great tool for dealing
with gear that has been dunked.

[Scott Dorsey]

William Sommerwerck wrote:
Usually my old cassettes from the 1970's lose the highs.

This isn't just an azimuth problem. It can also be caused by self-erasure.

It can happen, but actual erasure is a distant third behind azimuth
errors and Dolby mistracking.

And much of the erasure issues left there are caused by people with
magnetization issues. Which is weird; I never saw a professional studio
tape machine with any magnetization issues except when something went
terribly wrong; the record and erase heads self-demagnetized. You'd
think with a two-head cassette deck every time you went into record
the head would be demagnetized.... but apparently the waveforms on
the bias oscillators on those things must be pretty nasty.....
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

[William Sommerwerck]

"Scott Dorsey" wrote in message
...
William Sommerwerck wrote:

Usually my old cassettes from the 1970's lose the highs.

This isn't just an azimuth problem. It can also be caused by
self-erasure.

It can happen, but actual erasure is a distant third behind azimuth
errors and Dolby mistracking.

This is self-erasure -- not magnetized-head erasure.


And much of the erasure issues left there are caused by people with
magnetization issues. Which is weird; I never saw a professional studio
tape machine with any magnetization issues except when something went
terribly wrong; the record and erase heads self-demagnetized. You'd
think with a two-head cassette deck every time you went into record
the head would be demagnetized... but apparently the waveforms on
the bias oscillators on those things must be pretty nasty...

Circa 1980, I made a live orchestral recording on a Nakamichi 700 II. It
sounded fine -- then -- but when I pulled it out a decade later, you could
hear the overall softening of the sound -- and this recording was made on
metal-particle tape.

[Trevor]

"hank alrich" wrote in message
...
Correct, and that air circulation also helps remove moisture from the
dehydrator.

The air extraction (not circulation) is *imperitive* to remove moiture,
otherwise you simply have a steam pressure cooker.

Trevor.

[Scott Dorsey]

In article ,

Circa 1980, I made a live orchestral recording on a Nakamichi 700 II. It
sounded fine -- then -- but when I pulled it out a decade later, you could
hear the overall softening of the sound -- and this recording was made on
metal-particle tape.

I'm willing to bet, though, that a lot of what you're hearing is azimuth
and Dolby tracking going wrong.

However, some of those metal tapes _were_ subject to self-erasure, most
notably the Sony ones in the ceramic shells.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

[William Sommerwerck]

"Scott Dorsey" wrote in message
...
In article ,


Circa 1980, I made a live orchestral recording on a Nakamichi 700 II. It
sounded fine -- then -- but when I pulled it out a decade later, you could
hear the overall softening of the sound -- and this recording was made on
metal-particle tape.

I'm willing to bet, though, that a lot of what you're hearing is azimuth
and Dolby tracking going wrong.

Uh-uh. The tape was played back on a Dragon, which automatically set the
azimuth. And the recording was made with dbx II. So there.


However, some of those metal tapes _were_ subject to self-erasure, most
notably the Sony ones in the ceramic shells.

All cassette tapes gradually self-erase at high frequencies. The wavelengths
are simply too short.

[Arkansan Raider]

William Sommerwerck wrote:

So there.


*chuckle*

Okay dude, that was funny.

---Jeff