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#1
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Some newbie questions
1. Is there some kind of ratio of power to balance your sub and front speakers? I plan on getting 'a sub rated up to 250 watts rms' (http://tinyurl.com/5kjbk) and 'the components are rated up to 75 watts rms' (http://tinyurl.com/4odfj). 2. 'Is this amp' (http://tinyurl.com/6gp7l) capable of powering both the speakers and the sub, or would I need a second amp? 2b. If it is not powerful enough, I take it I would need 2 amps, one for the speakers and one for the amp. Would this create too large a strain on a stock electrical system (battery and alternator?) I really hope the original amp could run both, because then this is definitly within my budget. If I need a second amp, the components will have to wait... Possibly, 'an amp like this' (http://tinyurl.com/49ry2) would be enough to power everything, thus eliminating the need (and space) for 2 amps, although the price is similar to the cost of 2 amps. Even the single more powerful amp would push me over my budget... 3. Im looking for decent SQ, not SPL. I mainly listen to indie rock (bright eyes, death cab for cutie, the faint, q and not u). I don't need earth shattering bass, but I have no idea what 100 or 150 watts to the sub would sound like versus 225 or 250. If I ran 225 or 250 to the sub, and it was too much bass for me, how do I turn the bass (or its power) down? I'm almost embarrassed to ask that one... 4. 'This Kenwood Sub has higher sensitivity, so is it maybe a better choice?' (http://tinyurl.com/625q4) It doesn't go as low on the frequencies, but it goes higher, and it can handle more RMS (350 vs 250) but its peak is 700 watts (vs 1000 watts on the Infinity) Basically, is the sensitivity a high selling point? -- jiffy ------------------------------------------------------------------------ jiffy's Profile: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/me...p?userid=33416 View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...d.php?t=213184 CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over one million posts online! |
#2
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1. ok, so no worries about any "power ratio" 2. the amp posted in question 2, can be had for about 120, shipped. that is definitly in my price range, and any (2.b) MTX amp (new) with similar ratings is 2x as much (out of my budget). Also, the profile has a 3 year warranty. 3. www.qandnotu.org 4. Sounds like I will stick with the infinity sub. Thanks for the replies -- jiffy ------------------------------------------------------------------------ jiffy's Profile: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/me...p?userid=33416 View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...d.php?t=213195 CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over one million posts online! |
#3
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Here is my Opinions
1) I don't think there is a ratio for sub to front, it's more a personal preference. But Subs Require a lot more power because the speakers are bigger. 2) that amp can power both fronts and subs, but I think you you should go with the MTX amp over the Profile. MTX is a better constructed amp and you less likey to have noise problems. your system is only as good as you weakest link and that profile would be the weakest link. 2b) The MTX is powerfull enough to run the whole system, and would be the best if there are space concerns. I think it is better to have a separate amp just for subs. Adding any kind of amp puts a strain on the electrical system and I recommend upgrading the altinator. The Altinator on most new vehicles is rated so close to what the vehicle uses that adding any other electrical device puts a strain on it. So what happens is the Altinator works full out all the time trying to keep the battery charged, that in can burn out. This can sometimes take 6 months to a year to happen, sometimes you may not have any problems. Upgrading the altinator will also help the bass response since it will be able to keep up with the current demands of a sub amp. 3) The more power the more bass you can get. If the bass is to much, there is a gain control on the amps tu turn tham up or down. 4) the more sensitive the sub the less power it takes to drive it, usually lower powered subs are more sensitive than higher powered subs I do not kow what head unit your using, but if it a high power unit My recommendation for you is: 1st Get a 200-300 watt 2 channel amp to run the Sub and run the Fronts off the head unit power 2nd: then when you budget lets you get another 2 channel amp for the fronts. if you can afford it get a bigger amp that you can put on the subs and put the smaller amp on the fronts -- The Clown Prince of Car Stereo "jiffy" wrote in message news:1110470398.ec1bf8694457b679b0c5185ec267d1c0@t eranews... 1. Is there some kind of ratio of power to balance your sub and front speakers? I plan on getting 'a sub rated up to 250 watts rms' (http://tinyurl.com/5kjbk) and 'the components are rated up to 75 watts rms' (http://tinyurl.com/4odfj). 2. 'Is this amp' (http://tinyurl.com/6gp7l) capable of powering both the speakers and the sub, or would I need a second amp? 2b. If it is not powerful enough, I take it I would need 2 amps, one for the speakers and one for the amp. Would this create too large a strain on a stock electrical system (battery and alternator?) I really hope the original amp could run both, because then this is definitly within my budget. If I need a second amp, the components will have to wait... Possibly, 'an amp like this' (http://tinyurl.com/49ry2) would be enough to power everything, thus eliminating the need (and space) for 2 amps, although the price is similar to the cost of 2 amps. Even the single more powerful amp would push me over my budget... 3. Im looking for decent SQ, not SPL. I mainly listen to indie rock (bright eyes, death cab for cutie, the faint, q and not u). I don't need earth shattering bass, but I have no idea what 100 or 150 watts to the sub would sound like versus 225 or 250. If I ran 225 or 250 to the sub, and it was too much bass for me, how do I turn the bass (or its power) down? I'm almost embarrassed to ask that one... 4. 'This Kenwood Sub has higher sensitivity, so is it maybe a better choice?' (http://tinyurl.com/625q4) It doesn't go as low on the frequencies, but it goes higher, and it can handle more RMS (350 vs 250) but its peak is 700 watts (vs 1000 watts on the Infinity) Basically, is the sensitivity a high selling point? -- jiffy ------------------------------------------------------------------------ jiffy's Profile: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/me...p?userid=33416 View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...d.php?t=213184 CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over one million posts online! |
#4
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"jiffy" wrote in message news:1110470398.ec1bf8694457b679b0c5185ec267d1c0@t eranews... 1. Is there some kind of ratio of power to balance your sub and front speakers? I agree with joe, it is a matter of personal opinion. I actually have a more powerful amp driving my front speakers than the amp driving my sub. My front speaker amp is a Soundstream Reference 700 (125 watts x 2) and my sub amp is a Rockford Punch 225.2 (112.5 x 2 watts). Of course, my sub amp is bridged (450 watts) and my soundstream is not. I do this because my MB Quart front speakers are REALLY inefficient and need tons of power to sound good. So basically, there's no hard and fast rule. MOSFET |
#5
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1. Is there some kind of ratio of power to balance your sub and front
speakers? I plan on getting 'a sub rated up to 250 watts rms' (http://tinyurl.com/5kjbk) and 'the components are rated up to 75 watts rms' (http://tinyurl.com/4odfj). As the others have said, there's no rule governing this. The ratio of power outputs of the amplifiers won't determine the relative loudness of each - that can always be adjusted with the gain controls or fader. But it will determine just how loud you can go before distorting. 2. 'Is this amp' (http://tinyurl.com/6gp7l) capable of powering both the speakers and the sub, or would I need a second amp? Yes, it's capable. 2b. If it is not powerful enough, I take it I would need 2 amps, one for the speakers and one for the amp. Would this create too large a strain on a stock electrical system (battery and alternator?) No, you could always just get a bigger/better amp than that one. I disagree with what the other poster said about having to replace your alternator. You should be ok without a replacement, unless you drive a clown car or your alt is on death's doorstep anyway. I really hope the original amp could run both, because then this is definitly within my budget. If I need a second amp, the components will have to wait... Possibly, 'an amp like this' (http://tinyurl.com/49ry2) would be enough to power everything, thus eliminating the need (and space) for 2 amps, although the price is similar to the cost of 2 amps. Even the single more powerful amp would push me over my budget... Good amp, but I would never in a million years pay that kind of money for it. You can buy used MTX amplifiers that size on ebay for about $100. 3. Im looking for decent SQ, not SPL. I mainly listen to indie rock (bright eyes, death cab for cutie, the faint, q and not u). q and not who? I don't need earth shattering bass, but I have no idea what 100 or 150 watts to the sub would sound like versus 225 or 250. If I ran 225 or 250 to the sub, and it was too much bass for me, how do I turn the bass (or its power) down? I'm almost embarrassed to ask that one... You adjust the gain settings accordingly, or you use your fader as a subwoofer level control - if your head unit has two pairs of RCA outputs. 4. 'This Kenwood Sub has higher sensitivity, so is it maybe a better choice?' (http://tinyurl.com/625q4) It doesn't go as low on the frequencies, but it goes higher, and it can handle more RMS (350 vs 250) but its peak is 700 watts (vs 1000 watts on the Infinity) Basically, is the sensitivity a high selling point? Usually, power handling is the biggest selling point. Not only for the obvious reasons, but if the rating is accurate, it also may say something about the power compression of the driver - which, in short, is basically the sensitivity at higher output levels (kinda sorta). See, the sensitivity ratings you're looking at are measured at 1 watt. Well, great. But what happens when you're really listening to the stereo? You're going well over 1 watt. Speaker coils have the property of increasing their impedance as the coil gets hotter. Not just by a little bit either. So when the impedance increases, the power delivered to the speaker decreases. This has as large a bearing on the overall output as sensitivity would. Usually, but not always, power compression should be less in a driver that can handle more power. But comparing specs between different manufacturers tends to be problematic anyway. There's no set standard. And some manufacturers, like MTX, have a tendency of intentionally underrating their equipment. If I were you, I'd base your choice on reviews written by people who actually own the equipment, and not those who just did a quick comparison of the spec sheets. And if all else fails, just go with the cheaper one. |
#6
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2. the amp posted in question 2, can be had for about 120, shipped.
that is definitly in my price range, and any (2.b) MTX amp (new) with similar ratings is 2x as much (out of my budget). Also, the profile has a 3 year warranty. It's probably worth adding that an MTX rated at about half of what the Profile is rated at will be able to provide at least as much power as the Profile amp. That's based on my own experience of owning several MTX amps and one Profile amp, as well as testimonies over the years in here from other owners. That's not to say that Profile amplifiers are bad, or that you should spend a ton more just for the MTX, but rather to allow for a better comparison between the two. In fact, I used to have an MTX Blue Thunder 752 which was rated at only 37.5wrms x 2, but the "birth certificate" that came with it actually stated that it was tested to deliver 75 watts per channel, and when I benched it I got closer to 100 watts into a 4 ohm load prior to the onset of clipping. I don't remember the exact number... |
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