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Hello all... First post.

This weekend, I installed my very first car stereo and speakers. I
struggled with quite a few things, so i thought I would make this post
so that it might help some others.

So here goes. The best thing in this is the speaker wire diagram I will
give and the pinouts for the factory amp bypass

The diagrams should be the same for any post '00 dodge/chrysler i
imagine using a factory infinity 2ohm output sound system. This car is
a '02 Chrysler Sebring Convertible Limited Ed.

Ok:

Disconnected the - lead in to the battery to reduce chances of me
getting shocked to ****.

First step was removing the wood paneling dash cover to the stereo. It
is held on by four metal pinch clips. Just use a flat head screwdriver
and pry it off gently. When I did this, I disovered that the AC unit is
molded partially into the dash cover. easy fix however, it is connected
by two cables. Just disconnect and it all comes right out.

The head unit is held in by 4 screws. Take it out. Disconnect the
antenna and the harness.

Now, here was my first screw up. I cut the harness, after spending $20
on a wiring harness. This was my first ever adventure into installing,
so permit me some idiocy. This turned out to be a nightmare. But here
is how i solved the problem without having a wiring diagram (i didn't
discover this site and the diagram until I was about half way done with
the install).

After stupidly and cavalerly cutting off the factory harness, I
discovered that i would have to do some crafty re-wiring. I pluged the
now useless factory harness into the now useless aftermarket harness
and used the aftermarket harness as a diagram to figure out what color
wire meant what.

Here is the diagram:

Factory - Aftermarket -- function

Pink - yellow -- Battery
red/white - red -- Ignition
orange/brown - orange/white -- Dimmer/Illumination
green/red - blue/white -- OEM Amp
purple/yellow - brown -- CMute
purple - grey -- RF +
blue/red - grey/black -- RF -
brown/red - white/black -- LF -
green - white -- LF +
black (ground - not braided wire) - black -- GROUND
blue/white - purple -- RR +
blue/orange - purple/black -- RR-
brown/blue - green/black -- LR -
brown/yellow - green -- LR +

Ok, to re-wire after the mess I made, I made a quick trip to Radio
Shack and bought a bunch of wire nuts and some elecrtical tape.
Stripped the wires, re-matched everything, used wire nuts to hold
together, then reinforced with electrical tape. Capped off unused and
taped.

NOTES:

The particular radio I installed had an Aux/XMStereo unit that had a
wire iPlug (yes, i got a Dual. My intention here isn't tp be the
coolest kid, but to get rid of blown factory amp and speakers and i am
a girl and the radio looked neat and was on sale). I discovered that
there is a hole under the dash area directly center and below the
radio. I used this to thread through the wire for the iPlug and mounted
it directly below the radio. So if you ever need to thread an external
accessory from the back of the radio to the front on this particular
model car, this is a useful piece of knowledge.

Also, I was not satisfied with the mounting kit and the lack of
security inside the radio housing of the car. I could have purchase a
housing, I am sure, but i decided to rig something backyard mechanic
style.

My boyfriend is a mechanical engineer, so he created something out of
foam and metal to house the unit inside the housing that would
insulate, absorb heat and cushion the unit, as well as provide
additional security.

it looks pretty neat really. and he has this heat absorbing stuff they
use at his work to act as an additonal heat sink for the unit while
cushioning it to prevent skips from the cd player.

Ok, i digress. On to the hard stuff.

After installing the unit and replacing the dash cover (don't forget to
hook back up the AC) it was time to move on to bypassing the factory
amp.

I did not purchase an aftermarket amp. I am too poor, and i simply
wanted to get rid of the one under the seat and move it out.

No harnesses available to do this, so i had to do more creative wiring.

To remove the passenger seat, there are 5 bolts. Get a socket wrench.
You will need it or you will get ****ed off and throw the regular
wrench into a tree (i discovered this the hard way).

remove seat. DO NOT CUT ANY WIRES WITHOUT EVALUATING THE SITUATION.
These seats are heated and the wires look like the rest of the wires
with the amp, so you could potentially cut the wrong one. I didn't even
bother to disconnect the heating unit wires, just moved the seat out of
the way.

unbolt the amp. remove. keep the bolts, you will need them later.


Ok, now the hard part. There are 3 sets of speakers in the Sebgring.
tweeters in the dash, front and rear. that gives you 12 sets of wires.
And lucky for us, chrysler doesn't use any conventional way of marking
positive and negative from speaker to speaker. Some are purple
stripe/black stripe, some are red stripe/black stripe...one was even
blue stripe/purple stripe.

Ok. So first thing we did was take a break here and drink a few beers.
This is an important step. Don't forget to drink beer.

Then, because we had to replace the factory speakers as well, we
decided the best way to start figuring out the amp to speaker wiring
diagram was to do the speakers first to see what colors went to which
speaker.

Unfortunately there is no discernable way to figure out pos/neg on the
factory speakers. Granted the wiring scheme on most had black/some
other color, but you can't be too sure on this car as some were
blue/some other color.

So, i called in the reinforcements. My brother, who has installed many
a custom sound system of his own directed me to the old battery test.
He said "hold what you think is negative to the negative end of the
battery. Same with pos. If you hear a "pop" you got it right."

I did this, but was still concerned, so i found on here the start of
aispeaker wiring diagram. It stated in the two cases it had that black
was negative. between this and the battery test, we found that black
was negative on most of the speakers, except the two where there was no
black, in which case, blue was the negative.

Here is the speaker wiring pinout for the chrysler:

color - speaker - to radio color

lt blue/black - LF - -- brown/red
lt blue/purple - LF + -- green

lt green/black or blue - RF - (blue to speaker, black to amp) --
Blue/red
lt green/purple - RF + -- Purple NOTE: There are TWO purple coming from
amp to radio. One is kind of a prettier purple, one is a muddy brownish
purple that is slightly thicker. Use the prettier purple.

tan/black or blue - RR - -- blue/orange
tan/purple - RR + -- Blue/White

white/red - LR + -- brown/yellow
white/black - LR - -- brown/blue

orange/red - LF Tweeter + -- green NOTE: Wire tweeters to the same as
the LF door speaker. Three wires together for all tweeters.
orange/black or blue - LF Tweeter - brown/red

yellow/red - RF Tweeter + -- purple (see note for RF+ door.)
yellow/black - RF Tweeter - -- blue/red

Ok. Now there were two wires left over, black radio and muddy purple
radio. Being a smartass, i decided to click them together. Not a good
idea folks. Shorted out my horn (which i still need to fix). ground
both of these to the frame. I soldered them to a metal part of the
frame under the carpet under the seat, then covered with lots of
elecrtical tape. Replace carpet. The reason I said to save the bolts
from the removal of the Amp is if you do not have a soldering Iron, you
can use the amp bolt posts and bolt to ground the two wires. It is
better than not grounding them at all and the factoy amp bolt posts run
to the frame.


To wire all this i used wire nuts and electrical tape.


Ok. Using the above diagram, I wired up the speakers. same procedure.
All speakers except the tweeters are 6 X 9.

I did not replace the tweeters.

Results: A nice sounding system I am very pleased with. Huge Huge
improvement from what i HAD to what i now HAVE. Total time invested was
3 hours, total cost about $300. Saved $150 quote on the install to
bypass the amp.

I hope this helps someone. Here is a pic of the finished deck.

http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/2...00782sm7rc.jpg


you might want to add the wiring diagram for the speakers to the wiring
post on top. I had a hell of a time figuring it out and googled like
crazy and found only part of one.

Take care.
Peanut

[ck]

There is a amp by bas harneess through PAC
wrote in message
oups.com...
Hello all... First post.

This weekend, I installed my very first car stereo and speakers. I
struggled with quite a few things, so i thought I would make this post
so that it might help some others.

So here goes. The best thing in this is the speaker wire diagram I will
give and the pinouts for the factory amp bypass

The diagrams should be the same for any post '00 dodge/chrysler i
imagine using a factory infinity 2ohm output sound system. This car is
a '02 Chrysler Sebring Convertible Limited Ed.

Ok:

Disconnected the - lead in to the battery to reduce chances of me
getting shocked to ****.

First step was removing the wood paneling dash cover to the stereo. It
is held on by four metal pinch clips. Just use a flat head screwdriver
and pry it off gently. When I did this, I disovered that the AC unit is
molded partially into the dash cover. easy fix however, it is connected
by two cables. Just disconnect and it all comes right out.

The head unit is held in by 4 screws. Take it out. Disconnect the
antenna and the harness.

Now, here was my first screw up. I cut the harness, after spending $20
on a wiring harness. This was my first ever adventure into installing,
so permit me some idiocy. This turned out to be a nightmare. But here
is how i solved the problem without having a wiring diagram (i didn't
discover this site and the diagram until I was about half way done with
the install).

After stupidly and cavalerly cutting off the factory harness, I
discovered that i would have to do some crafty re-wiring. I pluged the
now useless factory harness into the now useless aftermarket harness
and used the aftermarket harness as a diagram to figure out what color
wire meant what.

Here is the diagram:

Factory - Aftermarket -- function

Pink - yellow -- Battery
red/white - red -- Ignition
orange/brown - orange/white -- Dimmer/Illumination
green/red - blue/white -- OEM Amp
purple/yellow - brown -- CMute
purple - grey -- RF +
blue/red - grey/black -- RF -
brown/red - white/black -- LF -
green - white -- LF +
black (ground - not braided wire) - black -- GROUND
blue/white - purple -- RR +
blue/orange - purple/black -- RR-
brown/blue - green/black -- LR -
brown/yellow - green -- LR +

Ok, to re-wire after the mess I made, I made a quick trip to Radio
Shack and bought a bunch of wire nuts and some elecrtical tape.
Stripped the wires, re-matched everything, used wire nuts to hold
together, then reinforced with electrical tape. Capped off unused and
taped.

NOTES:

The particular radio I installed had an Aux/XMStereo unit that had a
wire iPlug (yes, i got a Dual. My intention here isn't tp be the
coolest kid, but to get rid of blown factory amp and speakers and i am
a girl and the radio looked neat and was on sale). I discovered that
there is a hole under the dash area directly center and below the
radio. I used this to thread through the wire for the iPlug and mounted
it directly below the radio. So if you ever need to thread an external
accessory from the back of the radio to the front on this particular
model car, this is a useful piece of knowledge.

Also, I was not satisfied with the mounting kit and the lack of
security inside the radio housing of the car. I could have purchase a
housing, I am sure, but i decided to rig something backyard mechanic
style.

My boyfriend is a mechanical engineer, so he created something out of
foam and metal to house the unit inside the housing that would
insulate, absorb heat and cushion the unit, as well as provide
additional security.

it looks pretty neat really. and he has this heat absorbing stuff they
use at his work to act as an additonal heat sink for the unit while
cushioning it to prevent skips from the cd player.

Ok, i digress. On to the hard stuff.

After installing the unit and replacing the dash cover (don't forget to
hook back up the AC) it was time to move on to bypassing the factory
amp.

I did not purchase an aftermarket amp. I am too poor, and i simply
wanted to get rid of the one under the seat and move it out.

No harnesses available to do this, so i had to do more creative wiring.

To remove the passenger seat, there are 5 bolts. Get a socket wrench.
You will need it or you will get ****ed off and throw the regular
wrench into a tree (i discovered this the hard way).

remove seat. DO NOT CUT ANY WIRES WITHOUT EVALUATING THE SITUATION.
These seats are heated and the wires look like the rest of the wires
with the amp, so you could potentially cut the wrong one. I didn't even
bother to disconnect the heating unit wires, just moved the seat out of
the way.

unbolt the amp. remove. keep the bolts, you will need them later.


Ok, now the hard part. There are 3 sets of speakers in the Sebgring.
tweeters in the dash, front and rear. that gives you 12 sets of wires.
And lucky for us, chrysler doesn't use any conventional way of marking
positive and negative from speaker to speaker. Some are purple
stripe/black stripe, some are red stripe/black stripe...one was even
blue stripe/purple stripe.

Ok. So first thing we did was take a break here and drink a few beers.
This is an important step. Don't forget to drink beer.

Then, because we had to replace the factory speakers as well, we
decided the best way to start figuring out the amp to speaker wiring
diagram was to do the speakers first to see what colors went to which
speaker.

Unfortunately there is no discernable way to figure out pos/neg on the
factory speakers. Granted the wiring scheme on most had black/some
other color, but you can't be too sure on this car as some were
blue/some other color.

So, i called in the reinforcements. My brother, who has installed many
a custom sound system of his own directed me to the old battery test.
He said "hold what you think is negative to the negative end of the
battery. Same with pos. If you hear a "pop" you got it right."

I did this, but was still concerned, so i found on here the start of
aispeaker wiring diagram. It stated in the two cases it had that black
was negative. between this and the battery test, we found that black
was negative on most of the speakers, except the two where there was no
black, in which case, blue was the negative.

Here is the speaker wiring pinout for the chrysler:

color - speaker - to radio color

lt blue/black - LF - -- brown/red
lt blue/purple - LF + -- green

lt green/black or blue - RF - (blue to speaker, black to amp) --
Blue/red
lt green/purple - RF + -- Purple NOTE: There are TWO purple coming from
amp to radio. One is kind of a prettier purple, one is a muddy brownish
purple that is slightly thicker. Use the prettier purple.

tan/black or blue - RR - -- blue/orange
tan/purple - RR + -- Blue/White

white/red - LR + -- brown/yellow
white/black - LR - -- brown/blue

orange/red - LF Tweeter + -- green NOTE: Wire tweeters to the same as
the LF door speaker. Three wires together for all tweeters.
orange/black or blue - LF Tweeter - brown/red

yellow/red - RF Tweeter + -- purple (see note for RF+ door.)
yellow/black - RF Tweeter - -- blue/red

Ok. Now there were two wires left over, black radio and muddy purple
radio. Being a smartass, i decided to click them together. Not a good
idea folks. Shorted out my horn (which i still need to fix). ground
both of these to the frame. I soldered them to a metal part of the
frame under the carpet under the seat, then covered with lots of
elecrtical tape. Replace carpet. The reason I said to save the bolts
from the removal of the Amp is if you do not have a soldering Iron, you
can use the amp bolt posts and bolt to ground the two wires. It is
better than not grounding them at all and the factoy amp bolt posts run
to the frame.


To wire all this i used wire nuts and electrical tape.


Ok. Using the above diagram, I wired up the speakers. same procedure.
All speakers except the tweeters are 6 X 9.

I did not replace the tweeters.

Results: A nice sounding system I am very pleased with. Huge Huge
improvement from what i HAD to what i now HAVE. Total time invested was
3 hours, total cost about $300. Saved $150 quote on the install to
bypass the amp.

I hope this helps someone. Here is a pic of the finished deck.

http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/2...00782sm7rc.jpg


you might want to add the wiring diagram for the speakers to the wiring
post on top. I had a hell of a time figuring it out and googled like
crazy and found only part of one.

Take care.
Peanut