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  #81   Report Post  
Paul Stamler
 
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"Ben Bradley" wrote in message
...

I'd make my slice selling the PC boards and
writing it up for the magazines.


Speaking of PC boards, would it be all thru-hole, or any surface
mount? You're of course aware that more and more parts are only
available in SMT thesedays, and some people won't want to solder SMT
parts (even though the .050 pitch pins aren't hard). Or does it depend
on IC options? You could make a dual thru-hole/surface mount layout
for the chips that come in both.


Through-hole. I'm too shaky to solder SMT myself.

The ICs are nothing exotic, and available in 8-DIPs.

Peace,
Paul


  #82   Report Post  
Garrett
 
Posts: n/a
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Sorry yes "piqued" Had a few drinks and was in a hurry. Piqued.

cheers

garrett

On 2004-11-13 10:04:50 -0800, "normanstrong" said:


Garrett Cox wrote in message
...
How much to build the powersupply? I assume we'd be building it. I'd

be
interested. I love reading the DIY also. Still want to piece

together a
few of Scott Dorsey's passive EQ's. I hope it'd sound pretty awesome
220 per channel is a bit of cash. I won't say steep but it is a DIY
project for almost 2 grand. (If you do 8 channels)

mark me down for interest peaked.


I think the word you're looking for there is 'piqued'.



  #83   Report Post  
Garrett
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Sorry yes "piqued" Had a few drinks and was in a hurry. Piqued.

cheers

garrett

On 2004-11-13 10:04:50 -0800, "normanstrong" said:


Garrett Cox wrote in message
...
How much to build the powersupply? I assume we'd be building it. I'd

be
interested. I love reading the DIY also. Still want to piece

together a
few of Scott Dorsey's passive EQ's. I hope it'd sound pretty awesome
220 per channel is a bit of cash. I won't say steep but it is a DIY
project for almost 2 grand. (If you do 8 channels)

mark me down for interest peaked.


I think the word you're looking for there is 'piqued'.



  #86   Report Post  
Mike Rivers
 
Posts: n/a
Default


In article y.com writes:

A nice front panel is easy! You don't have to have a CNC mill yourself,
and you don't have to struggle with the dremel. Check out Front Panel
Express, or Schaeffer AG. The cost depends on the complexity of your
panel, but it is quite reasonable, and cheap enough to be used on
countless low budget DIY synth projects that I've seen.


I've heard of this outfit but have never investigated them. Why not
get an estimate for a project like this and pass it on to us? Don't
forget holes for the gain controls, high pass filter and phantom power
switches, might as well add a polarity switch, power supply connector,
and both inputs and outputs. Would you put the inputs on the front
(for convenience) or on the rear (for convenience g). That's two
panels, in case you weren't counting.

Do they make aluminum panels suitable for rack mounting that can
support the weight of eight transformers? (yeah, I know, it makes a
difference whether you mount them near the front or back). You'd
probably want a 3/16" or 1/4" thick front panel if that was also the
rack mount point, or at least an 1/8" panel with add-on rack ears.
Then you'd need a chassis and stand-offs to mount the circuit board.
All in all, a fair number of mechanical parts. This is why companies
that build electronic equipment have mechanical engineers working for
them, at least as consultants.




--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me he double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo
  #87   Report Post  
Mike Rivers
 
Posts: n/a
Default


In article y.com writes:

A nice front panel is easy! You don't have to have a CNC mill yourself,
and you don't have to struggle with the dremel. Check out Front Panel
Express, or Schaeffer AG. The cost depends on the complexity of your
panel, but it is quite reasonable, and cheap enough to be used on
countless low budget DIY synth projects that I've seen.


I've heard of this outfit but have never investigated them. Why not
get an estimate for a project like this and pass it on to us? Don't
forget holes for the gain controls, high pass filter and phantom power
switches, might as well add a polarity switch, power supply connector,
and both inputs and outputs. Would you put the inputs on the front
(for convenience) or on the rear (for convenience g). That's two
panels, in case you weren't counting.

Do they make aluminum panels suitable for rack mounting that can
support the weight of eight transformers? (yeah, I know, it makes a
difference whether you mount them near the front or back). You'd
probably want a 3/16" or 1/4" thick front panel if that was also the
rack mount point, or at least an 1/8" panel with add-on rack ears.
Then you'd need a chassis and stand-offs to mount the circuit board.
All in all, a fair number of mechanical parts. This is why companies
that build electronic equipment have mechanical engineers working for
them, at least as consultants.




--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me he double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo
  #90   Report Post  
Mike Rivers
 
Posts: n/a
Default


From: Bob Cain


come up with a battery operated unit at
$50/channel.


At a trade show a couple of years back, Dan Kennedy sketched something
out for me on a yellow legal pad. I still have the sheet. I built up a
channel and it looked like it would work out fine, but I never
packaged it. Same old story.

What I'm dying for is a four channel as per above but with a
form of gain control that will allow any number of channels
to be ganged and operated with a single control. Some kind
precision voltage controled pot on each channel if such a
thing exists.


Check out the Burr-Brown PGA2500. It's a digitally controlled mic
preamp chip. I'm not sure if I've heard one, but it's what Mackie is
using in the mic preamp module of their new dxb console. That module
appears to have a component made of unobtanium, maybe it's the
PGA2500.



--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me he double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo


  #91   Report Post  
Mike Rivers
 
Posts: n/a
Default


From: Bob Cain


come up with a battery operated unit at
$50/channel.


At a trade show a couple of years back, Dan Kennedy sketched something
out for me on a yellow legal pad. I still have the sheet. I built up a
channel and it looked like it would work out fine, but I never
packaged it. Same old story.

What I'm dying for is a four channel as per above but with a
form of gain control that will allow any number of channels
to be ganged and operated with a single control. Some kind
precision voltage controled pot on each channel if such a
thing exists.


Check out the Burr-Brown PGA2500. It's a digitally controlled mic
preamp chip. I'm not sure if I've heard one, but it's what Mackie is
using in the mic preamp module of their new dxb console. That module
appears to have a component made of unobtanium, maybe it's the
PGA2500.



--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me he double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo
  #92   Report Post  
Scott Dorsey
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Kurt Albershardt wrote:
Mike Rivers wrote:

Actually that isn't too difficult. If you're going to build a $2,000
preamp, you're probably into building things and you don't have to
start out by buying every tool that you need, because you already have
a decent shop. A good start for audio projects is a set of Greenlee
chassis punches for male and female XLR connectors, about $40 a piece.


I thought these punches were more like $200-250 each? You are talking about the ones with the slots for the mounting screws, right?


No, he is talking about round Greenless punches, without holes for mounting
screws. You punch the hole, put in the connector, and then drill the screw
holes.

I did not know that there were ANY hand punches that will do all three holes
in one operation! If you know of one, I would really like to know. I have
used a small hydraulic press with custom tooling, a combination that cost a
lot more than $200 and was not convenient to take into the field. A hand punch
that would do all three holes would be wonderful for field modification work.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
  #93   Report Post  
Scott Dorsey
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Kurt Albershardt wrote:
Mike Rivers wrote:

Actually that isn't too difficult. If you're going to build a $2,000
preamp, you're probably into building things and you don't have to
start out by buying every tool that you need, because you already have
a decent shop. A good start for audio projects is a set of Greenlee
chassis punches for male and female XLR connectors, about $40 a piece.


I thought these punches were more like $200-250 each? You are talking about the ones with the slots for the mounting screws, right?


No, he is talking about round Greenless punches, without holes for mounting
screws. You punch the hole, put in the connector, and then drill the screw
holes.

I did not know that there were ANY hand punches that will do all three holes
in one operation! If you know of one, I would really like to know. I have
used a small hydraulic press with custom tooling, a combination that cost a
lot more than $200 and was not convenient to take into the field. A hand punch
that would do all three holes would be wonderful for field modification work.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
  #94   Report Post  
Scott Dorsey
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Bob Cain wrote:
Geoff Wood wrote:

I'd be more interested in variable input impedence.


Which reminds me of a question that came up on another
forum. Seems that pre impedences are down in the 2K Ohm and
below range. Have they always been that low and why such a
relatively big load?


Well, first of all because audio guys were used to dealing with 600 ohm
balanced lines for everything at the time (which is a holdover from telco
practice, which is a holdover from open wire transmission lines that had
a 600 ohm characteristic impedance). Or 150 ohm lines if you worked at
CBS.

Secondly, the low impedance reduces electrostatic noise pickup, which is
high voltage noise with not much induced current. The signal current
swamps the noise current.

50 ohm impedances were not unusual at one time, back when everything was
transformer coupled so the disadvantages of extremely low impedances were
not as great.

The major disadvantage of the low mike impedances is that you need such a
high ratio transformer to get it into the grid of the first preamp tube,
and high ratio transformers with good high end response are hard to make.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
  #95   Report Post  
Scott Dorsey
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Bob Cain wrote:
Geoff Wood wrote:

I'd be more interested in variable input impedence.


Which reminds me of a question that came up on another
forum. Seems that pre impedences are down in the 2K Ohm and
below range. Have they always been that low and why such a
relatively big load?


Well, first of all because audio guys were used to dealing with 600 ohm
balanced lines for everything at the time (which is a holdover from telco
practice, which is a holdover from open wire transmission lines that had
a 600 ohm characteristic impedance). Or 150 ohm lines if you worked at
CBS.

Secondly, the low impedance reduces electrostatic noise pickup, which is
high voltage noise with not much induced current. The signal current
swamps the noise current.

50 ohm impedances were not unusual at one time, back when everything was
transformer coupled so the disadvantages of extremely low impedances were
not as great.

The major disadvantage of the low mike impedances is that you need such a
high ratio transformer to get it into the grid of the first preamp tube,
and high ratio transformers with good high end response are hard to make.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."


  #96   Report Post  
Paul Stamler
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Mike Rivers" wrote in message
news:znr1100391373k@trad...

Mr. Marketing here . . .

How about presenting it as a two-channel preamp which, I suspect, is
more in demand than an eight-channel preamp. Make a two-channel board
with pads to mount components for phantom powering, the high-pass
filter, and the additional components for the balanced output. Let the
user decide what extra features he wants to add for more flexibility
rather than what features he wants to leave out to save a few bucks.
The power supply will handle up to eight channels worth of boards, so
the preamp can grow as the users' needs grow.


It's already a two-channel preamp if you only buy two preamp boards. And
since the users are buying the parts, they get to decide what to leave out.
I'll make it clear, if I market the boards, just what parts are mandatory
and what parts aren't.

The chassis, panel, and case will remain a stumbling block for many,
however.


But not all; I'm aiming this at folks who have had at least some experience
with DIY. And I have a guy who's willing to make and sell panels and/or
cases. If someone wanted fewer than 8 channels, they could always put plugs
into the unused front-panel holes.

Peace,
Paul


  #97   Report Post  
Paul Stamler
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Mike Rivers" wrote in message
news:znr1100391373k@trad...

Mr. Marketing here . . .

How about presenting it as a two-channel preamp which, I suspect, is
more in demand than an eight-channel preamp. Make a two-channel board
with pads to mount components for phantom powering, the high-pass
filter, and the additional components for the balanced output. Let the
user decide what extra features he wants to add for more flexibility
rather than what features he wants to leave out to save a few bucks.
The power supply will handle up to eight channels worth of boards, so
the preamp can grow as the users' needs grow.


It's already a two-channel preamp if you only buy two preamp boards. And
since the users are buying the parts, they get to decide what to leave out.
I'll make it clear, if I market the boards, just what parts are mandatory
and what parts aren't.

The chassis, panel, and case will remain a stumbling block for many,
however.


But not all; I'm aiming this at folks who have had at least some experience
with DIY. And I have a guy who's willing to make and sell panels and/or
cases. If someone wanted fewer than 8 channels, they could always put plugs
into the unused front-panel holes.

Peace,
Paul


  #98   Report Post  
Paul Stamler
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Mike Rivers" wrote in message
news:znr1100392038k@trad...

In article y.com

writes:

A nice front panel is easy! You don't have to have a CNC mill yourself,
and you don't have to struggle with the dremel. Check out Front Panel
Express, or Schaeffer AG. The cost depends on the complexity of your
panel, but it is quite reasonable, and cheap enough to be used on
countless low budget DIY synth projects that I've seen.


I've heard of this outfit but have never investigated them. Why not
get an estimate for a project like this and pass it on to us? Don't
forget holes for the gain controls, high pass filter and phantom power
switches, might as well add a polarity switch, power supply connector,
and both inputs and outputs. Would you put the inputs on the front
(for convenience) or on the rear (for convenience g). That's two
panels, in case you weren't counting.


Rear. Eight XLR inputs and level controls take up a heck of a lot of space,
and getting your fingers in between all those plugs sounds like a real pain
in the butt. No polarity switch; I don't like putting switches into
mike-level circuits, having once nearly got fired when one decided to go
intermittent on me in the middle of a live broadcast. I could, I suppose,
put one in the balanced output section, but that wouldn't help the folks who
are recording or monitoring from the unbalanced outs, and a DPDT switch adds
more expense. I prefer to carry a couple of polarity-reversers in the BS
bag, for that one time in 100 when I need them.

Do they make aluminum panels suitable for rack mounting that can
support the weight of eight transformers? (yeah, I know, it makes a
difference whether you mount them near the front or back). You'd
probably want a 3/16" or 1/4" thick front panel if that was also the
rack mount point, or at least an 1/8" panel with add-on rack ears.
Then you'd need a chassis and stand-offs to mount the circuit board.
All in all, a fair number of mechanical parts. This is why companies
that build electronic equipment have mechanical engineers working for
them, at least as consultants.


I've used Sescom boxes in the past, which have hefty side panels with rack
ears and fairly light front and rear panels, good for easy drilling and
punching. Each mike channel is on a circuit board of its own, mounted using
L-brackets to the bottom of the case. I thought about a single PC board, but
decided people who wanted only 2 or 4 channels would balk at the expense of
the 8-channel board.

Peace,
Paul


  #99   Report Post  
Paul Stamler
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Mike Rivers" wrote in message
news:znr1100392038k@trad...

In article y.com

writes:

A nice front panel is easy! You don't have to have a CNC mill yourself,
and you don't have to struggle with the dremel. Check out Front Panel
Express, or Schaeffer AG. The cost depends on the complexity of your
panel, but it is quite reasonable, and cheap enough to be used on
countless low budget DIY synth projects that I've seen.


I've heard of this outfit but have never investigated them. Why not
get an estimate for a project like this and pass it on to us? Don't
forget holes for the gain controls, high pass filter and phantom power
switches, might as well add a polarity switch, power supply connector,
and both inputs and outputs. Would you put the inputs on the front
(for convenience) or on the rear (for convenience g). That's two
panels, in case you weren't counting.


Rear. Eight XLR inputs and level controls take up a heck of a lot of space,
and getting your fingers in between all those plugs sounds like a real pain
in the butt. No polarity switch; I don't like putting switches into
mike-level circuits, having once nearly got fired when one decided to go
intermittent on me in the middle of a live broadcast. I could, I suppose,
put one in the balanced output section, but that wouldn't help the folks who
are recording or monitoring from the unbalanced outs, and a DPDT switch adds
more expense. I prefer to carry a couple of polarity-reversers in the BS
bag, for that one time in 100 when I need them.

Do they make aluminum panels suitable for rack mounting that can
support the weight of eight transformers? (yeah, I know, it makes a
difference whether you mount them near the front or back). You'd
probably want a 3/16" or 1/4" thick front panel if that was also the
rack mount point, or at least an 1/8" panel with add-on rack ears.
Then you'd need a chassis and stand-offs to mount the circuit board.
All in all, a fair number of mechanical parts. This is why companies
that build electronic equipment have mechanical engineers working for
them, at least as consultants.


I've used Sescom boxes in the past, which have hefty side panels with rack
ears and fairly light front and rear panels, good for easy drilling and
punching. Each mike channel is on a circuit board of its own, mounted using
L-brackets to the bottom of the case. I thought about a single PC board, but
decided people who wanted only 2 or 4 channels would balk at the expense of
the 8-channel board.

Peace,
Paul


  #104   Report Post  
Mike Rivers
 
Posts: n/a
Default


In article writes:

A good start for audio projects is a set of Greenlee
chassis punches for male and female XLR connectors, about $40 a piece.


I thought these punches were more like $200-250 each? You are talking about
the ones with the slots for the mounting screws, right?


No, punches that make 3/4" (male) and 15/16" (female) round holes.
There's a 3/8" bolt that draws the punch through the die, so you have
to be able to drill a 3/8" hole but that's easy enough with a Harry
Homeowner electric hand drill - though getting it in the right place
is a little tricky.

Markertek sells the punches. Look in their catalog under C for
"Chassis Punch" (at least that's how it's listed in the paper catalog
I have here).

Here ya go:
http://www.markertek.com/SearchProdu...m=GL730A&off=1

And on the next page, they have a 2 space rack mount chassis that takes
five of their panel modules front and rear (they come pre-punched for some
things useful like XLR connectors, or blank). The chassis is $65. Panels are
$6 - $10 and come up to triple width.

I took a look at the Sescom web page as Monte suggested and they have a
similar rack mount chassis with what looks like solid front and rear panels
for around $40 that would probably accommodate the preamp. They also
have chassis punches for the microphone connectors that are about half the
price of those from Markertek. Sescom doesn't specify a brand name
(Markertek's are from Greenlee who has been making them for about 50
years) so it's possible that the Sescom ones are Chinese. They're probably
fine for a couple of projects, but may not last through a lifetime of building.




--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me he double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo
  #105   Report Post  
Mike Rivers
 
Posts: n/a
Default


In article writes:

A good start for audio projects is a set of Greenlee
chassis punches for male and female XLR connectors, about $40 a piece.


I thought these punches were more like $200-250 each? You are talking about
the ones with the slots for the mounting screws, right?


No, punches that make 3/4" (male) and 15/16" (female) round holes.
There's a 3/8" bolt that draws the punch through the die, so you have
to be able to drill a 3/8" hole but that's easy enough with a Harry
Homeowner electric hand drill - though getting it in the right place
is a little tricky.

Markertek sells the punches. Look in their catalog under C for
"Chassis Punch" (at least that's how it's listed in the paper catalog
I have here).

Here ya go:
http://www.markertek.com/SearchProdu...m=GL730A&off=1

And on the next page, they have a 2 space rack mount chassis that takes
five of their panel modules front and rear (they come pre-punched for some
things useful like XLR connectors, or blank). The chassis is $65. Panels are
$6 - $10 and come up to triple width.

I took a look at the Sescom web page as Monte suggested and they have a
similar rack mount chassis with what looks like solid front and rear panels
for around $40 that would probably accommodate the preamp. They also
have chassis punches for the microphone connectors that are about half the
price of those from Markertek. Sescom doesn't specify a brand name
(Markertek's are from Greenlee who has been making them for about 50
years) so it's possible that the Sescom ones are Chinese. They're probably
fine for a couple of projects, but may not last through a lifetime of building.




--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me he double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo


  #108   Report Post  
Kurt Albershardt
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Scott Dorsey wrote:
Kurt Albershardt wrote:

Mike Rivers wrote:

Actually that isn't too difficult. If you're going to build a $2,000
preamp, you're probably into building things and you don't have to
start out by buying every tool that you need, because you already have
a decent shop. A good start for audio projects is a set of Greenlee
chassis punches for male and female XLR connectors, about $40 a piece.


I thought these punches were more like $200-250 each? You are talking about the ones with the slots for the mounting screws, right?



No, he is talking about round Greenless punches, without holes for mounting
screws. You punch the hole, put in the connector, and then drill the screw
holes.


I can do that with a Unibit, unless it's a really thick panel.




I did not know that there were ANY hand punches that will do all three holes
in one operation! If you know of one, I would really like to know. I have
used a small hydraulic press with custom tooling, a combination that cost a
lot more than $200 and was not convenient to take into the field. A hand punch
that would do all three holes would be wonderful for field modification work.


At a place I worked in Hollywood, we used to have a set (one for each connector sex.) It was a single hole with keyways (notches) for the mounting screws. I don't know who made them.


  #109   Report Post  
Kurt Albershardt
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Scott Dorsey wrote:
Kurt Albershardt wrote:

Mike Rivers wrote:

Actually that isn't too difficult. If you're going to build a $2,000
preamp, you're probably into building things and you don't have to
start out by buying every tool that you need, because you already have
a decent shop. A good start for audio projects is a set of Greenlee
chassis punches for male and female XLR connectors, about $40 a piece.


I thought these punches were more like $200-250 each? You are talking about the ones with the slots for the mounting screws, right?



No, he is talking about round Greenless punches, without holes for mounting
screws. You punch the hole, put in the connector, and then drill the screw
holes.


I can do that with a Unibit, unless it's a really thick panel.




I did not know that there were ANY hand punches that will do all three holes
in one operation! If you know of one, I would really like to know. I have
used a small hydraulic press with custom tooling, a combination that cost a
lot more than $200 and was not convenient to take into the field. A hand punch
that would do all three holes would be wonderful for field modification work.


At a place I worked in Hollywood, we used to have a set (one for each connector sex.) It was a single hole with keyways (notches) for the mounting screws. I don't know who made them.


  #110   Report Post  
Kurt Albershardt
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Mike Rivers wrote:
From: Bob Cain



come up with a battery operated unit at
$50/channel.



At a trade show a couple of years back, Dan Kennedy sketched something
out for me on a yellow legal pad. I still have the sheet. I built up a
channel and it looked like it would work out fine, but I never
packaged it. Same old story.


What I'm dying for is a four channel as per above but with a
form of gain control that will allow any number of channels
to be ganged and operated with a single control. Some kind
precision voltage controled pot on each channel if such a
thing exists.



Check out the Burr-Brown PGA2500. It's a digitally controlled mic
preamp chip. I'm not sure if I've heard one, but it's what Mackie is
using in the mic preamp module of their new dxb console. That module
appears to have a component made of unobtanium, maybe it's the
PGA2500.


$16.58 in single unit quantities from Digi-Key. Surely this ought to find its way into some affordable remote digital preamp packages soon?








  #111   Report Post  
Kurt Albershardt
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Mike Rivers wrote:
From: Bob Cain



come up with a battery operated unit at
$50/channel.



At a trade show a couple of years back, Dan Kennedy sketched something
out for me on a yellow legal pad. I still have the sheet. I built up a
channel and it looked like it would work out fine, but I never
packaged it. Same old story.


What I'm dying for is a four channel as per above but with a
form of gain control that will allow any number of channels
to be ganged and operated with a single control. Some kind
precision voltage controled pot on each channel if such a
thing exists.



Check out the Burr-Brown PGA2500. It's a digitally controlled mic
preamp chip. I'm not sure if I've heard one, but it's what Mackie is
using in the mic preamp module of their new dxb console. That module
appears to have a component made of unobtanium, maybe it's the
PGA2500.


$16.58 in single unit quantities from Digi-Key. Surely this ought to find its way into some affordable remote digital preamp packages soon?






  #116   Report Post  
Bob Cain
 
Posts: n/a
Default



Mike Rivers wrote:

Check out the Burr-Brown PGA2500. It's a digitally controlled mic
preamp chip. I'm not sure if I've heard one, but it's what Mackie is
using in the mic preamp module of their new dxb console. That module
appears to have a component made of unobtanium, maybe it's the
PGA2500.


Wow! That certainly is the ticket for my app. Cascadable
too for ganging. Only problem I see is the need for a PIC
to convert an analog voltage from a gain pot to the digital
gain control for the chips. PICs are cheap, but there would
certainly be a learning curve and development investment for
progamming one to do the job.

At $16.50 for the PGA2500 and a buck for a PIC, this
certainly should offer the low cost channel that many people
have been wanting. The -128 dB noise Ein isn't stellar by
any means but certainly usable.

This might just be worth kitting.


Thanks,

Bob
--

"Things should be described as simply as possible, but no
simpler."

A. Einstein
  #117   Report Post  
Bob Cain
 
Posts: n/a
Default



Mike Rivers wrote:

Check out the Burr-Brown PGA2500. It's a digitally controlled mic
preamp chip. I'm not sure if I've heard one, but it's what Mackie is
using in the mic preamp module of their new dxb console. That module
appears to have a component made of unobtanium, maybe it's the
PGA2500.


Wow! That certainly is the ticket for my app. Cascadable
too for ganging. Only problem I see is the need for a PIC
to convert an analog voltage from a gain pot to the digital
gain control for the chips. PICs are cheap, but there would
certainly be a learning curve and development investment for
progamming one to do the job.

At $16.50 for the PGA2500 and a buck for a PIC, this
certainly should offer the low cost channel that many people
have been wanting. The -128 dB noise Ein isn't stellar by
any means but certainly usable.

This might just be worth kitting.


Thanks,

Bob
--

"Things should be described as simply as possible, but no
simpler."

A. Einstein
  #118   Report Post  
Magnus Jans?n
 
Posts: n/a
Default

(Mike Rivers) wrote in message news:znr1100380037k@trad...
In article
writes:

I have some general opinions on magazine-published DIY projects, and
this is aimed not only at Mr Stamler but also Mr Dorsey and everyone
else that do these things.

First, I want to be able to get ALL parts at once from one place, and
that must include the chassis.


That's really nice, but unless someone is willing to put together a
complete kit, it really can't be done. Paia used to do this but they
don't seem to be quite so active in that area these days. Understand
that this requires a substantial investment when it comes to
metalwork. They can often use resistors, capacitors and op amp chips
for multiple products but they can't punch a chassis for an 8-channel
mic preamp and use it for a compressor.


Scott Hampton seems to manage just fine. Of course there isn't a
decent business in doing kits, but Mr Dorsey et al arn't making any
money on the kits as it so... As a naive end-user/reader it's hard to
see the difference in not making much money on "hard to get parts for
and then I have to slave away on housing"-kits and not making much
money on "yummy it's just one package to order for off-hours soldering
goodness". Just add the extra labor costs onto the cost of the full
package to take you from "losing money" to "not making much money".

Second, I don't think anyone is interested in merly "decent" or
"servicable" projects. I think most readers have too much of that
already. We want "really good" or even "outstanding".


This is why I didn't think Paul's project would be a smashing success.
On the other hand, a project like Scott's Oktava mic modifications
that involve a simple circuit board that he can provide, a handful of
parts, and only small hand tools are pretty popular.


Yes it's an examplary mod. Unfortunately he does in fact NOT provide
replacement circuit bords as you say, which I kind of whish he did
since he mentions about a million times how easy it is to wreck the
board. I wonder, would there be enough room to make it have a truly
balanced output if one redesigned the board?

To keep price down I think you need to make costly features optional.
Many people couldn't care less about HP-filtering, phase switches,
metering and balanced outputs in a preamp for instance.


I wrote an article in Recording a while back about developing your own
DIY project (using a monitor switcher as an example) in which I
explained exactly that concept - but the point of my article was that
YOU could make those decisions. It's not difficult to find application
notes for transfomrers and op amps that will get you a decent mic
preamp and you can make it "really good" or even "outstanding" by the
way you apply what's in those application notes. If you want someone
to make those decisions for you, you have to accept his take on what's
good for you.


The problem is that "DIY" is not a good term for what we are
discussing. It's not so much "Do It Yourself" as "Someone Else Did
Most Of It For Me And Now I Just Paint By Numbers" (SEDMOIFMANIJPBN).
The reason why me and my ilk have to read your articles is because we
are in fact NOT skilled enough to concieve and design these things. We
can however build them. But since we are already pampered rather
heavily it feels ardenous to have to make the final set of decisions
ourselves (housing).


This is a perfectly good example of a project that you could develop
yourself. All you need to do is understand what you need to
accomplish. Package it as pretty or as ugly as you wish.


But I don't want to develop it myself. I want to pay YOU to do it. I
want you to guide me through the design in the assembly notes,
explaining what each thing does, why this is good design practice etc.
So that at the end of assembling I may have learnt something. That's
ALL I want.
If I wanted to become an audio equipment designer of such a caliber
that I could design these things myself then I would study to become
one and not waste time trying to deduct something from a paint by
numbers DIY project.
  #119   Report Post  
Magnus Jans?n
 
Posts: n/a
Default

(Mike Rivers) wrote in message news:znr1100380037k@trad...
In article
writes:

I have some general opinions on magazine-published DIY projects, and
this is aimed not only at Mr Stamler but also Mr Dorsey and everyone
else that do these things.

First, I want to be able to get ALL parts at once from one place, and
that must include the chassis.


That's really nice, but unless someone is willing to put together a
complete kit, it really can't be done. Paia used to do this but they
don't seem to be quite so active in that area these days. Understand
that this requires a substantial investment when it comes to
metalwork. They can often use resistors, capacitors and op amp chips
for multiple products but they can't punch a chassis for an 8-channel
mic preamp and use it for a compressor.


Scott Hampton seems to manage just fine. Of course there isn't a
decent business in doing kits, but Mr Dorsey et al arn't making any
money on the kits as it so... As a naive end-user/reader it's hard to
see the difference in not making much money on "hard to get parts for
and then I have to slave away on housing"-kits and not making much
money on "yummy it's just one package to order for off-hours soldering
goodness". Just add the extra labor costs onto the cost of the full
package to take you from "losing money" to "not making much money".

Second, I don't think anyone is interested in merly "decent" or
"servicable" projects. I think most readers have too much of that
already. We want "really good" or even "outstanding".


This is why I didn't think Paul's project would be a smashing success.
On the other hand, a project like Scott's Oktava mic modifications
that involve a simple circuit board that he can provide, a handful of
parts, and only small hand tools are pretty popular.


Yes it's an examplary mod. Unfortunately he does in fact NOT provide
replacement circuit bords as you say, which I kind of whish he did
since he mentions about a million times how easy it is to wreck the
board. I wonder, would there be enough room to make it have a truly
balanced output if one redesigned the board?

To keep price down I think you need to make costly features optional.
Many people couldn't care less about HP-filtering, phase switches,
metering and balanced outputs in a preamp for instance.


I wrote an article in Recording a while back about developing your own
DIY project (using a monitor switcher as an example) in which I
explained exactly that concept - but the point of my article was that
YOU could make those decisions. It's not difficult to find application
notes for transfomrers and op amps that will get you a decent mic
preamp and you can make it "really good" or even "outstanding" by the
way you apply what's in those application notes. If you want someone
to make those decisions for you, you have to accept his take on what's
good for you.


The problem is that "DIY" is not a good term for what we are
discussing. It's not so much "Do It Yourself" as "Someone Else Did
Most Of It For Me And Now I Just Paint By Numbers" (SEDMOIFMANIJPBN).
The reason why me and my ilk have to read your articles is because we
are in fact NOT skilled enough to concieve and design these things. We
can however build them. But since we are already pampered rather
heavily it feels ardenous to have to make the final set of decisions
ourselves (housing).


This is a perfectly good example of a project that you could develop
yourself. All you need to do is understand what you need to
accomplish. Package it as pretty or as ugly as you wish.


But I don't want to develop it myself. I want to pay YOU to do it. I
want you to guide me through the design in the assembly notes,
explaining what each thing does, why this is good design practice etc.
So that at the end of assembling I may have learnt something. That's
ALL I want.
If I wanted to become an audio equipment designer of such a caliber
that I could design these things myself then I would study to become
one and not waste time trying to deduct something from a paint by
numbers DIY project.
  #120   Report Post  
Scott Dorsey
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Kurt Albershardt wrote:
Scott Dorsey wrote:

I did not know that there were ANY hand punches that will do all three holes
in one operation! If you know of one, I would really like to know. I have
used a small hydraulic press with custom tooling, a combination that cost a
lot more than $200 and was not convenient to take into the field. A hand punch
that would do all three holes would be wonderful for field modification work.


At a place I worked in Hollywood, we used to have a set (one for each connector sex.) It was a single hole with keyways (notches) for the mounting screws. I don't know who made them.


That is exactly what I want! Where do I get them? A couple hundred bucks
each is doable if they last.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
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