I just installed my system. My subs are rated at 1100 RMS each. My amp puts
out 800RMS each channel. It was sounding great, but as soon as I turned it
up kind of hi, it only lasted about 10 minutes, then it cut off. I checked
the amp, no lights were on, except the neon light outside of it. I checked
the fuses, and one of them was blown. Can this be caused by the subs trying
to pull more power. Or is this normal, and I shouldn't have more blown fuses
(which I doubt) Thanks.

Tell us EXACTLY what equipment you have and (most important) exactly how it
is wired (bridged/stereo, parallel/series wiring, etc.). We can probably
help you better that way.

MOSFET

"ElGalanazo" wrote in message
news:UOqOf.16081$kp3.1737@fed1read03...
I just installed my system. My subs are rated at 1100 RMS each. My amp puts
out 800RMS each channel. It was sounding great, but as soon as I turned it
up kind of hi, it only lasted about 10 minutes, then it cut off. I checked
the amp, no lights were on, except the neon light outside of it. I checked
the fuses, and one of them was blown. Can this be caused by the subs trying
to pull more power. Or is this normal, and I shouldn't have more blown
fuses (which I doubt) Thanks.

both of my subs are wired in parallel for 2 ohms each. Maybe its the quality
of the amp, Its a Lanzar vibe266. Its says it is 2 ohm stable. Now I
replaced the fuse on it, but now it is in "protection mode". Thanks.

"MOSFET" wrote in message
...
Tell us EXACTLY what equipment you have and (most important) exactly how
it is wired (bridged/stereo, parallel/series wiring, etc.). We can
probably help you better that way.

MOSFET

"ElGalanazo" wrote in message
news:UOqOf.16081$kp3.1737@fed1read03...
I just installed my system. My subs are rated at 1100 RMS each. My amp
puts out 800RMS each channel. It was sounding great, but as soon as I
turned it up kind of hi, it only lasted about 10 minutes, then it cut off.
I checked the amp, no lights were on, except the neon light outside of it.
I checked the fuses, and one of them was blown. Can this be caused by the
subs trying to pull more power. Or is this normal, and I shouldn't have
more blown fuses (which I doubt) Thanks.

How much the subs can handle will not have any effect on your amp. However,
how they are wired most certainly will. When you say both your subs are
wired in parallel for "2 ohms each", you mean they are wired in parallel so
your amp sees a 2 ohm load (your 4 ohm subs are ALWAYS 4 ohms).

I checked and that amp IS NOT 2 ohm stable bridged. This very well is your
problem. You do not give the Audiobahn model number. What is it? If it is
an 8 ohm sub OR dual-voice coils, there may be a way to wire them so you get
a 4 ohm load.

MOSFET

"ElGalanazo" wrote in message
news:_ZrOf.16084$kp3.3476@fed1read03...
Oh by the way, the subs are audiobhan 1100 RMS each. They are huge. Maybe
my amp can't handle them. with 800RMS each, which I think its overated.
Thanks agian.

"ElGalanazo" wrote in message
news:5YrOf.16083$kp3.3425@fed1read03...
both of my subs are wired in parallel for 2 ohms each. Maybe its the
quality of the amp, Its a Lanzar vibe266. Its says it is 2 ohm stable.
Now I replaced the fuse on it, but now it is in "protection mode".
Thanks.

"MOSFET" wrote in message
...
Tell us EXACTLY what equipment you have and (most important) exactly how
it is wired (bridged/stereo, parallel/series wiring, etc.). We can
probably help you better that way.

MOSFET

"ElGalanazo" wrote in message
news:UOqOf.16081$kp3.1737@fed1read03...
I just installed my system. My subs are rated at 1100 RMS each. My amp
puts out 800RMS each channel. It was sounding great, but as soon as I
turned it up kind of hi, it only lasted about 10 minutes, then it cut
off. I checked the amp, no lights were on, except the neon light outside
of it. I checked the fuses, and one of them was blown. Can this be
caused by the subs trying to pull more power. Or is this normal, and I
shouldn't have more blown fuses (which I doubt) Thanks.

They are the AW1206T. My amp is 2 channel, and it is seeing 2 ohm load on
each channel. Is that bridged?? I dont think so. Another question. I I wire
my subs in parallel to get a 1 ohm load, is that mono? What is 1 ohm stereo
and what would be the best amp to get to get the most power out of that amp
(the most thump for my buck) Thanks for your help.

"MOSFET" wrote in message
...
How much the subs can handle will not have any effect on your amp.
However, how they are wired most certainly will. When you say both your
subs are wired in parallel for "2 ohms each", you mean they are wired in
parallel so your amp sees a 2 ohm load (your 4 ohm subs are ALWAYS 4
ohms).

I checked and that amp IS NOT 2 ohm stable bridged. This very well is
your problem. You do not give the Audiobahn model number. What is it?
If it is an 8 ohm sub OR dual-voice coils, there may be a way to wire them
so you get a 4 ohm load.

MOSFET

"ElGalanazo" wrote in message
news:_ZrOf.16084$kp3.3476@fed1read03...
Oh by the way, the subs are audiobhan 1100 RMS each. They are huge. Maybe
my amp can't handle them. with 800RMS each, which I think its overated.
Thanks agian.

"ElGalanazo" wrote in message
news:5YrOf.16083$kp3.3425@fed1read03...
both of my subs are wired in parallel for 2 ohms each. Maybe its the
quality of the amp, Its a Lanzar vibe266. Its says it is 2 ohm stable.
Now I replaced the fuse on it, but now it is in "protection mode".
Thanks.

"MOSFET" wrote in message
...
Tell us EXACTLY what equipment you have and (most important) exactly
how it is wired (bridged/stereo, parallel/series wiring, etc.). We can
probably help you better that way.

MOSFET

"ElGalanazo" wrote in message
news:UOqOf.16081$kp3.1737@fed1read03...
I just installed my system. My subs are rated at 1100 RMS each. My amp
puts out 800RMS each channel. It was sounding great, but as soon as I
turned it up kind of hi, it only lasted about 10 minutes, then it cut
off. I checked the amp, no lights were on, except the neon light
outside of it. I checked the fuses, and one of them was blown. Can this
be caused by the subs trying to pull more power. Or is this normal, and
I shouldn't have more blown fuses (which I doubt) Thanks.

They are the AW1206T. My amp is 2 channel, and it is seeing 2 ohm load on
each channel. Is that bridged?? I dont think so.

Hmmm. You're right. Those subs are dual 4 ohm voice coils. And I guess
you were right before, 2 ohms per sub (sorry). That is 2 ohms per channel
and that SHOULD work. Your amp should be able to handle that.

It sounds like you have done everything right as far as hooking them up.
Next step, have you checked your car voltage when you are driving these
subs? If your voltage drops below 12 volts, your amp will start drawing
more current to attain the desired watts (ohms law, volts x amps = watts).
This current draw might start blowing fuses.

MOSFET

I have a 3 and 1 farad connected together. I doubt this is the problem. Im
thinking is the AMP. ANy sugestios on what kind of amp I can connect these
to. A two channel 1 ohm stable? And wire them in parallel to create 1 ohm?
Thanks.

"MOSFET" wrote in message
news
They are the AW1206T. My amp is 2 channel, and it is seeing 2 ohm load on
each channel. Is that bridged?? I dont think so.

Hmmm. You're right. Those subs are dual 4 ohm voice coils. And I guess
you were right before, 2 ohms per sub (sorry). That is 2 ohms per channel
and that SHOULD work. Your amp should be able to handle that.

It sounds like you have done everything right as far as hooking them up.
Next step, have you checked your car voltage when you are driving these
subs? If your voltage drops below 12 volts, your amp will start drawing
more current to attain the desired watts (ohms law, volts x amps = watts).
This current draw might start blowing fuses.

MOSFET

The capacitors shouldn't make any difference. You're amp SHOULD be able to
do this. I would check the voltage with a multimeter. It is possible that
your amp is simply drawing to much current because your electrical system
cannot keep up (unfortunately, capacitors cannot solve this problem). It
may not be your amp's fault AND you might have this problem with ANY
high-power amp you get. To be sure, you need to test your electrical system
while cranking your system. If voltage drops below 11 volts, you will
either have to upgrade (or fix) your electrical system or just keep the
volume lower.

MOSFET

"ElGalanazo" wrote in message
news:cguOf.16746$kp3.16572@fed1read03...
I have a 3 and 1 farad connected together. I doubt this is the problem. Im
thinking is the AMP. ANy sugestios on what kind of amp I can connect these
to. A two channel 1 ohm stable? And wire them in parallel to create 1 ohm?
Thanks.

"MOSFET" wrote in message
news
They are the AW1206T. My amp is 2 channel, and it is seeing 2 ohm load
on each channel. Is that bridged?? I dont think so.

Hmmm. You're right. Those subs are dual 4 ohm voice coils. And I guess
you were right before, 2 ohms per sub (sorry). That is 2 ohms per
channel and that SHOULD work. Your amp should be able to handle that.

It sounds like you have done everything right as far as hooking them up.
Next step, have you checked your car voltage when you are driving these
subs? If your voltage drops below 12 volts, your amp will start drawing
more current to attain the desired watts (ohms law, volts x amps =
watts). This current draw might start blowing fuses.

MOSFET

I gave up. I unpluged the speaker wires and the rca inputs too, shut it off,
and turned it back on. The protection led is still on. It has to be the amp.
the voltage comming in is 14.9 according to both of my caps, so I know is
right. Oh well, what can you expect from a 130 dollar amp. I'll have to get
a RF and stop being a "cheapo" MF. Thanks for all your help.

"ElGalanazo" wrote in message
news:UOqOf.16081$kp3.1737@fed1read03...
I just installed my system. My subs are rated at 1100 RMS each. My amp puts
out 800RMS each channel. It was sounding great, but as soon as I turned it
up kind of hi, it only lasted about 10 minutes, then it cut off. I checked
the amp, no lights were on, except the neon light outside of it. I checked
the fuses, and one of them was blown. Can this be caused by the subs trying
to pull more power. Or is this normal, and I shouldn't have more blown
fuses (which I doubt) Thanks.

It is the amplifier, this is a classic sign of blown outputs when the
amplifier still goes into protection with the speakers unplugged. In fact it
wasn't that long ago that I was telling these jokers in here that most
amplifier protection circuits are nothing more then a sick joke. but I guess
in a way your protection circuit is protecting your power supply from going up
in flames. The problem is that most times amplifiers don't die on their own
like this, and there is a good chance that you might have a burnt or a pre
burnt voice coil on one or both of the subs. So make sure that you have your
subs checked out before you do anything, because it you do have a burnt coil
and you hook up another amplifier to those subs, you will cook another
amplifier.


In article RjwOf.18615$kp3.15357@fed1read03, "ElGalanazo"
wrote:
I gave up. I unpluged the speaker wires and the rca inputs too, shut it off,
and turned it back on. The protection led is still on. It has to be the amp.
the voltage comming in is 14.9 according to both of my caps, so I know is
right. Oh well, what can you expect from a 130 dollar amp. I'll have to get
a RF and stop being a "cheapo" MF. Thanks for all your help.

Great!, Just waht I wanted to hear. So how can I troubleshoot my subs
without hooking them up to another amp so I dont cook it? Thanks.

"Captain Howdy" wrote in message
...
It is the amplifier, this is a classic sign of blown outputs when the
amplifier still goes into protection with the speakers unplugged. In fact
it
wasn't that long ago that I was telling these jokers in here that most
amplifier protection circuits are nothing more then a sick joke. but I
guess
in a way your protection circuit is protecting your power supply from
going up
in flames. The problem is that most times amplifiers don't die on their
own
like this, and there is a good chance that you might have a burnt or a pre
burnt voice coil on one or both of the subs. So make sure that you have
your
subs checked out before you do anything, because it you do have a burnt
coil
and you hook up another amplifier to those subs, you will cook another
amplifier.


In article RjwOf.18615$kp3.15357@fed1read03, "ElGalanazo"
wrote:
I gave up. I unpluged the speaker wires and the rca inputs too, shut it
off,
and turned it back on. The protection led is still on. It has to be the
amp.
the voltage comming in is 14.9 according to both of my caps, so I know is
right. Oh well, what can you expect from a 130 dollar amp. I'll have to
get
a RF and stop being a "cheapo" MF. Thanks for all your help.

Ok, I found a new discovery. As soon as I start my car, the amp comes out of
protection mode and the power light comes on too and I can hear a little
buzzing sound comming out of the subs, I think, and them it goes into
protection mode again. I know is not the subs coz it does this even whith
them umpluged. Thanks for all your help.

"ElGalanazo" wrote in message
news:wpLOf.25649$kp3.20814@fed1read03...
Great!, Just waht I wanted to hear. So how can I troubleshoot my subs
without hooking them up to another amp so I dont cook it? Thanks.

"Captain Howdy" wrote in message
...
It is the amplifier, this is a classic sign of blown outputs when the
amplifier still goes into protection with the speakers unplugged. In fact
it
wasn't that long ago that I was telling these jokers in here that most
amplifier protection circuits are nothing more then a sick joke. but I
guess
in a way your protection circuit is protecting your power supply from
going up
in flames. The problem is that most times amplifiers don't die on their
own
like this, and there is a good chance that you might have a burnt or a
pre
burnt voice coil on one or both of the subs. So make sure that you have
your
subs checked out before you do anything, because it you do have a burnt
coil
and you hook up another amplifier to those subs, you will cook another
amplifier.


In article RjwOf.18615$kp3.15357@fed1read03, "ElGalanazo"
wrote:
I gave up. I unpluged the speaker wires and the rca inputs too, shut it
off,
and turned it back on. The protection led is still on. It has to be the
amp.
the voltage comming in is 14.9 according to both of my caps, so I know is
right. Oh well, what can you expect from a 130 dollar amp. I'll have to
get
a RF and stop being a "cheapo" MF. Thanks for all your help.

You know, something you said in your previous post made me wonder something.
You said your caps were reading 14.9 volts? That's REALLY high. Is that at
idle? What does it read when your amp goes into protection mode?

I'm just wondering if THAT's your problem (too high a voltage). What
happens when the engine is NOT running, does it go into protection mode
then?

Maybe someone else can speculate on this.

MOSFET

"ElGalanazo" wrote in message
news:44MOf.26308$kp3.5189@fed1read03...
Ok, I found a new discovery. As soon as I start my car, the amp comes out
of protection mode and the power light comes on too and I can hear a
little buzzing sound comming out of the subs, I think, and them it goes
into protection mode again. I know is not the subs coz it does this even
whith them umpluged. Thanks for all your help.

"ElGalanazo" wrote in message
news:wpLOf.25649$kp3.20814@fed1read03...
Great!, Just waht I wanted to hear. So how can I troubleshoot my subs
without hooking them up to another amp so I dont cook it? Thanks.

"Captain Howdy" wrote in message
...
It is the amplifier, this is a classic sign of blown outputs when the
amplifier still goes into protection with the speakers unplugged. In
fact it
wasn't that long ago that I was telling these jokers in here that most
amplifier protection circuits are nothing more then a sick joke. but I
guess
in a way your protection circuit is protecting your power supply from
going up
in flames. The problem is that most times amplifiers don't die on their
own
like this, and there is a good chance that you might have a burnt or a
pre
burnt voice coil on one or both of the subs. So make sure that you have
your
subs checked out before you do anything, because it you do have a burnt
coil
and you hook up another amplifier to those subs, you will cook another
amplifier.


In article RjwOf.18615$kp3.15357@fed1read03, "ElGalanazo"
wrote:
I gave up. I unpluged the speaker wires and the rca inputs too, shut it
off,
and turned it back on. The protection led is still on. It has to be the
amp.
the voltage comming in is 14.9 according to both of my caps, so I know
is
right. Oh well, what can you expect from a 130 dollar amp. I'll have to
get
a RF and stop being a "cheapo" MF. Thanks for all your help.

Most car audio crap can handle up to 16 volts. 13.5-15 volts is normal for
alternator output.


His amp started going in to protection after cranking it up for 10 minutes. If
I had to bet I would say a burnt voice coil popped the amps outputs. I have
seen amps that were fried that had a delay going in to protection mode a few
times, so that does not stick me as good news.


In article , "MOSFET"
wrote:
You know, something you said in your previous post made me wonder something.
You said your caps were reading 14.9 volts? That's REALLY high. Is that at
idle? What does it read when your amp goes into protection mode?

I'm just wondering if THAT's your problem (too high a voltage). What
happens when the engine is NOT running, does it go into protection mode
then?

Maybe someone else can speculate on this.

MOSFET

"ElGalanazo" wrote in message
news:44MOf.26308$kp3.5189@fed1read03...
Ok, I found a new discovery. As soon as I start my car, the amp comes out
of protection mode and the power light comes on too and I can hear a
little buzzing sound comming out of the subs, I think, and them it goes
into protection mode again. I know is not the subs coz it does this even
whith them umpluged. Thanks for all your help.

"ElGalanazo" wrote in message
news:wpLOf.25649$kp3.20814@fed1read03...
Great!, Just waht I wanted to hear. So how can I troubleshoot my subs
without hooking them up to another amp so I dont cook it? Thanks.

"Captain Howdy" wrote in message
...
It is the amplifier, this is a classic sign of blown outputs when the
amplifier still goes into protection with the speakers unplugged. In
fact it
wasn't that long ago that I was telling these jokers in here that most
amplifier protection circuits are nothing more then a sick joke. but I
guess
in a way your protection circuit is protecting your power supply from
going up
in flames. The problem is that most times amplifiers don't die on their
own
like this, and there is a good chance that you might have a burnt or a
pre
burnt voice coil on one or both of the subs. So make sure that you have
your
subs checked out before you do anything, because it you do have a burnt
coil
and you hook up another amplifier to those subs, you will cook another
amplifier.


In article RjwOf.18615$kp3.15357@fed1read03, "ElGalanazo"
wrote:
I gave up. I unpluged the speaker wires and the rca inputs too, shut it
off,
and turned it back on. The protection led is still on. It has to be the
amp.
the voltage comming in is 14.9 according to both of my caps, so I know
is
right. Oh well, what can you expect from a 130 dollar amp. I'll have to
get
a RF and stop being a "cheapo" MF. Thanks for all your help.

I still would like to know, How I can check if my subs are fine without
burning another amp?? Thanks.


"Captain Howdy" wrote in message
...
Most car audio crap can handle up to 16 volts. 13.5-15 volts is normal for
alternator output.


His amp started going in to protection after cranking it up for 10
minutes. If
I had to bet I would say a burnt voice coil popped the amps outputs. I
have
seen amps that were fried that had a delay going in to protection mode a
few
times, so that does not stick me as good news.


In article , "MOSFET"
wrote:
You know, something you said in your previous post made me wonder
something.
You said your caps were reading 14.9 volts? That's REALLY high. Is that
at
idle? What does it read when your amp goes into protection mode?

I'm just wondering if THAT's your problem (too high a voltage). What
happens when the engine is NOT running, does it go into protection mode
then?

Maybe someone else can speculate on this.

MOSFET

"ElGalanazo" wrote in message
news:44MOf.26308$kp3.5189@fed1read03...
Ok, I found a new discovery. As soon as I start my car, the amp comes
out
of protection mode and the power light comes on too and I can hear a
little buzzing sound comming out of the subs, I think, and them it goes
into protection mode again. I know is not the subs coz it does this even
whith them umpluged. Thanks for all your help.

"ElGalanazo" wrote in message
news:wpLOf.25649$kp3.20814@fed1read03...
Great!, Just waht I wanted to hear. So how can I troubleshoot my subs
without hooking them up to another amp so I dont cook it? Thanks.

"Captain Howdy" wrote in message
...
It is the amplifier, this is a classic sign of blown outputs when the
amplifier still goes into protection with the speakers unplugged. In
fact it
wasn't that long ago that I was telling these jokers in here that most
amplifier protection circuits are nothing more then a sick joke. but I
guess
in a way your protection circuit is protecting your power supply from
going up
in flames. The problem is that most times amplifiers don't die on
their
own
like this, and there is a good chance that you might have a burnt or a
pre
burnt voice coil on one or both of the subs. So make sure that you
have
your
subs checked out before you do anything, because it you do have a
burnt
coil
and you hook up another amplifier to those subs, you will cook another
amplifier.


In article RjwOf.18615$kp3.15357@fed1read03, "ElGalanazo"
wrote:
I gave up. I unpluged the speaker wires and the rca inputs too, shut
it
off,
and turned it back on. The protection led is still on. It has to be
the
amp.
the voltage comming in is 14.9 according to both of my caps, so I know
is
right. Oh well, what can you expect from a 130 dollar amp. I'll have
to
get
a RF and stop being a "cheapo" MF. Thanks for all your help.

Use an ohm meter and see what reading you get on each coil. A good 4ohm coil
should have a reading of no less then 3.5 ohms



In article dMWOf.36980$kp3.23285@fed1read03, "ElGalanazo"
wrote:
I still would like to know, How I can check if my subs are fine without
burning another amp?? Thanks.

Thanks. I did already and they read 2.1 and 2.2. They are wired for 2 ohms
so they are ok, right? Im planning on installing a RF 400RMS x2, although
these subs are rated for 1100RMS each, for some reason I think that this RF
amp should feed them enough power to each, right? What would be your
recommendation for these in case I want to upgrade the amp? Thanks again.


"Captain Howdy" wrote in message
...
Use an ohm meter and see what reading you get on each coil. A good 4ohm
coil
should have a reading of no less then 3.5 ohms



In article dMWOf.36980$kp3.23285@fed1read03, "ElGalanazo"
wrote:
I still would like to know, How I can check if my subs are fine without
burning another amp?? Thanks.

Your coils seem fine. See my reply to your other post.


In article zupPf.52032$kp3.7189@fed1read03, "ElGalanazo"
wrote:
Thanks. I did already and they read 2.1 and 2.2. They are wired for 2 ohms
so they are ok, right? Im planning on installing a RF 400RMS x2, although
these subs are rated for 1100RMS each, for some reason I think that this RF
amp should feed them enough power to each, right? What would be your
recommendation for these in case I want to upgrade the amp? Thanks again.


"Captain Howdy" wrote in message
...
Use an ohm meter and see what reading you get on each coil. A good 4ohm
coil
should have a reading of no less then 3.5 ohms



In article dMWOf.36980$kp3.23285@fed1read03, "ElGalanazo"
wrote:
I still would like to know, How I can check if my subs are fine without
burning another amp?? Thanks.