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#1
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Wiring options
Hello, i just got a new syatem and am not sure on the best way to wire
it. I have the DEI 600D and 2 Audiobahn AW1200Q subs. The subs can be ran down to 2ohms but the amp is 1ohm stable. I want to get the most amount of power out of it b/c the subs can supposedly handle 1400 watts, if im only running a 2ohm load that would give me 200rms to each sub, right? Now the amp is internally paralelled or whatever so any help on this would be great because i really dont want to blow the subs or the amp, i hear these amps are really good and really hard to come by so i dont want to lose that for sure. Thanks |
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#2
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Do the subs have dual 4-ohm voice coils? If the amp is truly stable to 1
ohm, why don't you wire the subs in parallel for a 1-ohm load? Mind you, I know nothing about that amp in particular, but DEI makes some good amps and if it's 1-ohm stable... Anyone else? Tony -- 2001 Nissan Maxima SE Anniversary Edition Eclipse CD8454 Head Unit, Phoenix Gold ZX475ti, ZX450 and ZX500 Amplifiers, Phoenix Gold EQ-232 30-Band EQ, Dynaudio System 360 Tri-Amped In Front and Focal 130HCs For Rear Fill, 2 Soundstream EXACT10s In Aperiodic Enclosure 2001 Chevy S10 ZR2 Pioneer DEH-P9600MP (Just gettin' started) "1,2,3 and to the 4ohm" wrote in message ups.com... Hello, i just got a new syatem and am not sure on the best way to wire it. I have the DEI 600D and 2 Audiobahn AW1200Q subs. The subs can be ran down to 2ohms but the amp is 1ohm stable. I want to get the most amount of power out of it b/c the subs can supposedly handle 1400 watts, if im only running a 2ohm load that would give me 200rms to each sub, right? Now the amp is internally paralelled or whatever so any help on this would be great because i really dont want to blow the subs or the amp, i hear these amps are really good and really hard to come by so i dont want to lose that for sure. Thanks |
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#3
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1,2,3 and to the 4ohm wrote: Hello, i just got a new syatem and am not sure on the best way to wire it. I have the DEI 600D and 2 Audiobahn AW1200Q subs. The subs can be ran down to 2ohms but the amp is 1ohm stable. I want to get the most amount of power out of it b/c the subs can supposedly handle 1400 watts, if im only running a 2ohm load that would give me 200rms to each sub, right? Now the amp is internally paralelled or whatever so any help on this would be great because i really dont want to blow the subs or the amp, i hear these amps are really good and really hard to come by so i dont want to lose that for sure. Thanks If you wanna the noise around 1400 watts, it's good chance that you might destory your amp or sub or both. There is no way you can maintain amp around 1400 watts. It will be neither sub or amp blowing out soon. 1400 watts is a monsterous noise that you might awake up the whole neighbor! The solution is keep the noise down. You do not have to join the street booming competition. |
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#4
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If you wanna the noise around 1400 watts, it's good chance that you
might destory your amp or sub or both. There is no way you can maintain amp around 1400 watts. It will be neither sub or amp blowing out soon. 1400 watts is a monsterous noise that you might awake up the whole neighbor! The solution is keep the noise down. You do not have to join the street booming competition. Please do not take this troll's advice. |
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#6
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#7
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lol
You crack me up, MZ: "Please do not take this Troll's advice" "Please do not respond to my posts" MOSFET |
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#8
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mmdir2.. must die, and i volunteer to be the eradicator
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#9
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1,2,3 and to the 4ohm wrote: wrote: 1,2,3 and to the 4ohm wrote: Hello, i just got a new syatem and am not sure on the best way to wire it. I have the DEI 600D and 2 Audiobahn AW1200Q subs. The subs can be ran down to 2ohms but the amp is 1ohm stable. I want to get the most amount of power out of it b/c the subs can supposedly handle 1400 watts, if im only running a 2ohm load that would give me 200rms to each sub, right? Now the amp is internally paralelled or whatever so any help on this would be great because i really dont want to blow the subs or the amp, i hear these amps are really good and really hard to come by so i dont want to lose that for sure. Thanks If you wanna the noise around 1400 watts, it's good chance that you might destory your amp or sub or both. There is no way you can maintain amp around 1400 watts. It will be neither sub or amp blowing out soon. 1400 watts is a monsterous noise that you might awake up the whole neighbor! The solution is keep the noise down. You do not have to join the street booming competition. I'm not trying to run 1400 watts, i just want to maximize the power that the amp can produce, 600rms/1200max, and if i run it at 2Ohms i would be getting 800TOTAL watts and the subs can handle up to 1400 watts, thats why i would like to see if there is a way to wire DUAL 4OHM subs and make the amp see a 1Ohm load so i can get the max power out of it, and of course without blowing the whole thing up in the process. Also i have another question, the amp has 2 60amp fuses on it, i was wondering if i should get a 60 or 70 amp fuse for the battery. Thanks again! Are you so ignorant on electrornic stuff? Fuse has nothing to do with power delivery. Fuse is just a protection wire in order to protect the device. YOu put the high rating fuse you defintely going to blow the device. WARNING: NEVER PUT THE HIGHER RATING FUSE! |
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#10
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OK, Im assuming you have 2 subs that are dual 4ohm voice coils. On the first sub wire the two positive together. Then wire the two negatives together. The sub now see's half the load which is now 2ohms. Do the same thing to the second sub. Now connect the positive wire from the first sub to the second sub positive. Now connect the negative the same way. Now your subs see 1ohm. -- KicRocs ------------------------------------------------------------------------ KicRocs's Profile: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/me...p?userid=33359 View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...d.php?t=212541 CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over one million posts online! |
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#11
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Are you so ignorant on electrornic stuff? Fuse has nothing to do with
power delivery. Fuse is just a protection wire in order to protect the device. YOu put the high rating fuse you defintely going to blow the device. WARNING: NEVER PUT THE HIGHER RATING FUSE! Mmdir2002, I would refrain from calling anyone ignorant. Again, the irony here of YOU wondering if someone else is ignorant on "electronic stuff" is just too much to bare. MOSFET |
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#12
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On 1 Mar 2005 11:18:34 -0800, "1,2,3 and to the 4ohm"
wrote: wrote: 1,2,3 and to the 4ohm wrote: Hello, i just got a new syatem and am not sure on the best way to wire it. I have the DEI 600D and 2 Audiobahn AW1200Q subs. The subs can be ran down to 2ohms but the amp is 1ohm stable. I want to get the most amount of power out of it b/c the subs can supposedly handle 1400 watts, if im only running a 2ohm load that would give me 200rms to each sub, right? Now the amp is internally paralelled or whatever so any help on this would be great because i really dont want to blow the subs or the amp, i hear these amps are really good and really hard to come by so i dont want to lose that for sure. Thanks If you wanna the noise around 1400 watts, it's good chance that you might destory your amp or sub or both. There is no way you can maintain amp around 1400 watts. It will be neither sub or amp blowing out soon. 1400 watts is a monsterous noise that you might awake up the whole neighbor! The solution is keep the noise down. You do not have to join the street booming competition. I'm not trying to run 1400 watts, i just want to maximize the power that the amp can produce, 600rms/1200max, and if i run it at 2Ohms i would be getting 800TOTAL watts and the subs can handle up to 1400 watts, thats why i would like to see if there is a way to wire DUAL 4OHM subs and make the amp see a 1Ohm load so i can get the max power out of it, and of course without blowing the whole thing up in the process. Also i have another question, the amp has 2 60amp fuses on it, i was wondering if i should get a 60 or 70 amp fuse for the battery. Thanks again! Actually, if you have two 60-amp fuses in the amplifier, I would use at least a 120-amp fuse near the battery. The size of the fuse near the battery doesn't have anything to do with protecting the amplifier - it's just to protect the wiring. In case of excessive current, as long as the fuse near the battery blows before the main power wire becomes damaged, it's done its job. If you pick a battery fuse that's too small, like 60- or 70-amps, you may end up repeatedly blowing the battery fuse, just because of the current requirements of the amp. Scott Gardner |
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#13
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1,2,3 and to the 4ohm wrote: "thats why i would like to see if there is a
way to wire DUAL 4OHM subs and make the amp see a 1Ohm load" Yes, there is. See he http://www.bcae1.com Go to #58, "Series/Parallel Impedance" and there are multiple examples to choose from. In your case, the specific example you need to follow is how to wire two speakers with dual 2 ohm voice coils to get a 1/2 ohm load. Same setup you need to use, just differnent values. Tony -- 2001 Nissan Maxima SE Anniversary Edition Eclipse CD8454 Head Unit, Phoenix Gold ZX475ti, ZX450 and ZX500 Amplifiers, Phoenix Gold EQ-232 30-Band EQ, Dynaudio System 360 Tri-Amped In Front and Focal 130HCs For Rear Fill, 2 Soundstream EXACT10s In Aperiodic Enclosure 2001 Chevy S10 ZR2 Pioneer DEH-P9600MP (Just gettin' started) |
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#14
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Scott Gardner wrote: On 1 Mar 2005 11:18:34 -0800, "1,2,3 and to the 4ohm" wrote: wrote: 1,2,3 and to the 4ohm wrote: Hello, i just got a new syatem and am not sure on the best way to wire it. I have the DEI 600D and 2 Audiobahn AW1200Q subs. The subs can be ran down to 2ohms but the amp is 1ohm stable. I want to get the most amount of power out of it b/c the subs can supposedly handle 1400 watts, if im only running a 2ohm load that would give me 200rms to each sub, right? Now the amp is internally paralelled or whatever so any help on this would be great because i really dont want to blow the subs or the amp, i hear these amps are really good and really hard to come by so i dont want to lose that for sure. Thanks If you wanna the noise around 1400 watts, it's good chance that you might destory your amp or sub or both. There is no way you can maintain amp around 1400 watts. It will be neither sub or amp blowing out soon. 1400 watts is a monsterous noise that you might awake up the whole neighbor! The solution is keep the noise down. You do not have to join the street booming competition. I'm not trying to run 1400 watts, i just want to maximize the power that the amp can produce, 600rms/1200max, and if i run it at 2Ohms i would be getting 800TOTAL watts and the subs can handle up to 1400 watts, thats why i would like to see if there is a way to wire DUAL 4OHM subs and make the amp see a 1Ohm load so i can get the max power out of it, and of course without blowing the whole thing up in the process. Also i have another question, the amp has 2 60amp fuses on it, i was wondering if i should get a 60 or 70 amp fuse for the battery. Thanks again! Actually, if you have two 60-amp fuses in the amplifier, I would use at least a 120-amp fuse near the battery. The size of the fuse near the battery doesn't have anything to do with protecting the amplifier - it's just to protect the wiring. In case of excessive current, as long as the fuse near the battery blows before the main power wire becomes damaged, it's done its job. If you pick a battery fuse that's too small, like 60- or 70-amps, you may end up repeatedly blowing the battery fuse, just because of the current requirements of the amp. Scott Gardner Fuse does not protecting the wire. Fuse is for protecting the device. Just read the manual of amplifier what it says about the fuse rating. |
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#15
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FUSE IS TO PROTECT THE WIRE FROM CATCHING ON FIRE. Whoever said the primary function of a fuse to protect your equipment is talking out of their a$$. Please learn ohms law and come back with a more educated answer. -- Vestax05pro ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Vestax05pro's Profile: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/me...hp?userid=7766 View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...d.php?t=212541 CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over one million posts online! |
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#16
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MZ Wrote: Never put the higher rating fuse! [/color] So if an amp was 50 feet away from the battery versus an amp 2 feet away would draw the same amount of current? What happen to resistance? -- Vestax05pro ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Vestax05pro's Profile: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/me...hp?userid=7766 View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...d.php?t=212541 CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over one million posts online! |
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#18
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Electronic stuff? Nice way to put it...... And don't mean to be a grammar nazi but it's even harder to take you seriously with "electronric". WTF is a electronric. Or would that be electromagnetism and physics? Which you probably haven't taken in college? Please GTFO and stop being an idiot. MZ Wrote: Are you so ignorant on electronric stuff? "Vestax05pro" wrote in message news:1109794960.724cd04fda7037e1f97e98493ba71c27@t eranews... MZ Wrote: Never put the higher rating fuse! So if an amp was 50 feet away from the battery versus an amp 2 feet away would draw the same amount of current? What happen to resistance? -- Vestax05pro ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Vestax05pro's Profile: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/me...hp?userid=7766 View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...d.php?t=212541 CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over one million posts online! [/color] -- Vestax05pro ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Vestax05pro's Profile: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/me...hp?userid=7766 View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...d.php?t=212541 CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over one million posts online! |
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#19
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1,2,3 and to the 4ohm Wrote: ok i understand what u are saying in all, but the sub manufacturer says that the subs can only be operated at 2 or 8 ohms. so wouldnt that hurt the subs making them go lower than they are supposed to? I dont know, maybe they can be maybe they cant be., thanks for the post hope to keep getting more feedback from knowledgable people! Rule of thumb, you must take account the length and thickness of wire when fusing at the battery. If the amplifier is pulling 60 amps of current, then it would be safe to go with at least a 4 awg with a run of over 12 feet. But like Scott Gardner said, you should go with a bigger fuse on the inline fuse at the battery due to more amperage draw and resistance in the wire. -- Vestax05pro ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Vestax05pro's Profile: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/me...hp?userid=7766 View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...d.php?t=212541 CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over one million posts online! |
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#20
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MZ Wrote: Why don't you put a soup on your head and ride a bike, moron? "Vestax05pro" wrote in message news:1109805754.b83b17cf744f0d36783ce6b04289bbff@t eranews... Electronic stuff? Nice way to put it...... And don't mean to be a grammar nazi but it's even harder to take you seriously with "electronric". WTF is a electronric. Or would that be electromagnetism and physics? Which you probably haven't taken in college? Please GTFO and stop being an idiot. MZ Wrote: Are you so ignorant on electronric stuff? "Vestax05pro" wrote in message news:1109794960.724cd04fda7037e1f97e98493ba71c27@t eranews... MZ Wrote: Never put the higher rating fuse! So if an amp was 50 feet away from the battery versus an amp 2 feet away would draw the same amount of current? What happen to resistance? -- Vestax05pro ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Vestax05pro's Profile: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/me...hp?userid=7766 View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...d.php?t=212541 CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over one million posts online! -- Vestax05pro ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Vestax05pro's Profile: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/me...hp?userid=7766 View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...d.php?t=212541 CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over one million posts online! [/color] Why don't you put a cork in your a$$ so you can stfu, halfwit? -- Vestax05pro ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Vestax05pro's Profile: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/me...hp?userid=7766 View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...d.php?t=212541 CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over one million posts online! |
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#21
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MZ Wrote: Rule of thumb, you must take account the length and thickness of wire when fusing at the battery. If the amplifier is pulling 60 amps of current, then it would be safe to go with at least a 4 awg with a run of over 12 feet. But like Scott Gardner said, you should go with a bigger fuse on the inline fuse at the battery due to more amperage draw and resistance in the wire. Actually, the length of the wire doesn't matter when determining the proper size fuse. It's not the resistance of the wire that's the issue, but rather the resistance per unit length (or, even more accurately, resistance per unit surface area). This is because ultimately we're dealing with heat dissipation as the factor governing what a wire can handle. Thanks for the regurgitation. And now that you explain nothing, so you're saying it's better to put a 60 amp fuse on the inline batt for an amp installed in the trunk of a limo drawing 60 amps? You haven't worked in a shop have you? -- Vestax05pro ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Vestax05pro's Profile: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/me...hp?userid=7766 View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...d.php?t=212541 CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over one million posts online! |
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#23
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Never put the higher rating fuse!
"Scott Gardner" wrote in message ... On 1 Mar 2005 23:35:14 -0800, wrote: Fuse does not protecting the wire. Fuse is for protecting the device. Just read the manual of amplifier what it says about the fuse rating. Red Cloud (I'm going to start calling you by your old nickname, since it's easier to type than ), You really have no business giving advice in this group. Some day, someone is going to follow your silly advice and get hurt or set fire to their car. The fuse near the battery in the main power wire is NOT to protect the amplifier, it's to protect the wiring. The reason is, if you don't have a fuse in the main power wire and any part of it shorts to ground, the main power wire will catch fire. That's why you put the fuse in the main power wire as close to the battery as you can, so that the part of the wire that isn't protected by the fuse (the part of the wire between the battery and the fuse) is as short as possible. The amplifier is protected by its own fuses. The fuse near the battery is ONLY for protecting the wiring. Scott Gardner |
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#24
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The manufacturer is only stating that one sub is capable of 2ohm or 8ohm. When you combine subs together the ohms will be different. This will not damage the subs. What will damage the subs is if your amp is not capable of handling the ohms you wire your subs to. This can damage subs and amps. Thats why you need to make sure your amp can handle a 1ohm load. Look at the specs of your amp. You'll see the lower the ohm the more power you get from the amp. That is what most people try to achieve. -- KicRocs ------------------------------------------------------------------------ KicRocs's Profile: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/me...p?userid=33359 View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...d.php?t=212541 CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over one million posts online! |
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#25
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Are you so ignorant on electronric stuff?
"Vestax05pro" wrote in message news:1109794960.724cd04fda7037e1f97e98493ba71c27@t eranews... MZ Wrote: Never put the higher rating fuse! So if an amp was 50 feet away from the battery versus an amp 2 feet away would draw the same amount of current? What happen to resistance? -- Vestax05pro ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Vestax05pro's Profile: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/me...hp?userid=7766 View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...d.php?t=212541 CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over one million posts online! [/color] |
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#26
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ok i understand what u are saying in all, but the sub manufacturer says
that the subs can only be operated at 2 or 8 ohms. so wouldnt that hurt the subs making them go lower than they are supposed to? I dont know, maybe they can be maybe they cant be., thanks for the post hope to keep getting more feedback from knowledgable people! |
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#27
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i meant it has 2 30amp fuses, my bad.
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#28
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Why don't you put a soup on your head and ride a bike, moron?
"Vestax05pro" wrote in message news:1109805754.b83b17cf744f0d36783ce6b04289bbff@t eranews... Electronic stuff? Nice way to put it...... And don't mean to be a grammar nazi but it's even harder to take you seriously with "electronric". WTF is a electronric. Or would that be electromagnetism and physics? Which you probably haven't taken in college? Please GTFO and stop being an idiot. MZ Wrote: Are you so ignorant on electronric stuff? "Vestax05pro" wrote in message news:1109794960.724cd04fda7037e1f97e98493ba71c27@t eranews... MZ Wrote: Never put the higher rating fuse! So if an amp was 50 feet away from the battery versus an amp 2 feet away would draw the same amount of current? What happen to resistance? -- Vestax05pro ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Vestax05pro's Profile: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/me...hp?userid=7766 View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...d.php?t=212541 CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over one million posts online! -- Vestax05pro ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Vestax05pro's Profile: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/me...hp?userid=7766 View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...d.php?t=212541 CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over one million posts online! [/color] |
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#29
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Rule of thumb, you must take account the length and thickness of wire
when fusing at the battery. If the amplifier is pulling 60 amps of current, then it would be safe to go with at least a 4 awg with a run of over 12 feet. But like Scott Gardner said, you should go with a bigger fuse on the inline fuse at the battery due to more amperage draw and resistance in the wire. Actually, the length of the wire doesn't matter when determining the proper size fuse. It's not the resistance of the wire that's the issue, but rather the resistance per unit length (or, even more accurately, resistance per unit surface area). This is because ultimately we're dealing with heat dissipation as the factor governing what a wire can handle. |
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#30
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Thanks for the regurgitation. And now that you explain nothing, so
you're saying it's better to put a 60 amp fuse on the inline batt for an amp installed in the trunk of a limo drawing 60 amps? No. I'm saying if the wire can only handle 60 amps, then a 60 amp fuse should be used. The length of the wire is completely irrelevant. It does not change the current-handling capacity of the wire. |
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#31
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On Wed, 2 Mar 2005 12:11:09 +0000, Vestax05pro
wrote: MZ Wrote: Why don't you put a soup on your head and ride a bike, moron? "Vestax05pro" wrote in message news:1109805754.b83b17cf744f0d36783ce6b04289bbff@t eranews... Electronic stuff? Nice way to put it...... And don't mean to be a grammar nazi but it's even harder to take you seriously with "electronric". WTF is a electronric. Or would that be electromagnetism and physics? Which you probably haven't taken in college? Please GTFO and stop being an idiot. Lol - MZ is one of the more knowledgeable posters in this group, and his mastery of both spelling and grammar is fine. His fractured English in this thread is a joke on another poster that's been making a pest of himself on here recently. Scott |
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#32
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Actually, the length of the wire doesn't matter when determining the
proper size fuse. It's not the resistance of the wire that's the issue, but rather the resistance per unit length (or, even more accurately, resistance per unit surface area). This is because ultimately we're dealing with heat dissipation as the factor governing what a wire can handle. Wait a sec MZ. The length of a given wire WOULD effect voltage, right? Longer runs cause larger losses of voltage. So, if you had a very long run and your voltage dropped considerably, wouldn't you need more amperage to maintain a given wattage (Ohm's law)? So, length of wire WOULD effect amperage. Is my reasoning flawed? MOSFET |
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#33
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Actually, the length of the wire doesn't matter when determining the
proper size fuse. It's not the resistance of the wire that's the issue, but rather the resistance per unit length (or, even more accurately, resistance per unit surface area). This is because ultimately we're dealing with heat dissipation as the factor governing what a wire can handle. Wait a sec MZ. The length of a given wire WOULD effect voltage, right? Longer runs cause larger losses of voltage. Exactly right. So, if you had a very long run and your voltage dropped considerably, wouldn't you need more amperage to maintain a given wattage (Ohm's law)? So, length of wire WOULD effect amperage. Is my reasoning flawed? This would be true only if today's amplifiers were fully regulated and that they were perfectly capable of maintaining their power output despite fluctuations in the supply voltage. But most amplifiers today are only semi-regulated, and what you find is that the power output decreases as the supply voltage decreases. As a result, the current draw is technically lower with higher resistance wire. But all this doesn't matter, really. Fusing depends only on the properties of the wire - how much current the amp draws is irrelevant because fusing is done to protect the wire. The internal fuse protects the amplifier. |
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#34
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On Wed, 2 Mar 2005 18:02:20 -0800, "MOSFET"
wrote: Actually, the length of the wire doesn't matter when determining the proper size fuse. It's not the resistance of the wire that's the issue, but rather the resistance per unit length (or, even more accurately, resistance per unit surface area). This is because ultimately we're dealing with heat dissipation as the factor governing what a wire can handle. Wait a sec MZ. The length of a given wire WOULD effect voltage, right? Longer runs cause larger losses of voltage. So, if you had a very long run and your voltage dropped considerably, wouldn't you need more amperage to maintain a given wattage (Ohm's law)? So, length of wire WOULD effect amperage. Is my reasoning flawed? MOSFET The reduced voltage from a longer run will only cause the current to increase if you have a regulated power supply in the amplifier. But it doesn't matter anyway - Mark's right - the current-carrying capacity of a wire isn't affected by the wire's length. Let's say that 4ga wire can safely carry 135 amps of current. That's going to stay the same whether you're talking about a two-foot run or a twenty-foot run. That's why the current-capacity charts for wires don't specify a standard run length. Since the fuse near the battery for the main power lead is only to protect the wiring, you just have to make sure that you use a fuse that will blow before the wire is damaged. In this case, a 135-amp fuse or breaker would do the trick. BTW, voltage losses in the main power wire are pretty much negligible anyway. To continue to use 4ga wire as an example, the resistance of 4ga is about a quarter-ohm **per thousand feet**. This means that even if you had a twenty-foot run length of 4 ga wire and ran 135 amps of current through it, you're only talking about a voltage drop of a little more than half a volt. An amplifier with any kind of regulation in the power supply won't even notice a drop that small. Scott Gardner |
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In article ,
Scott Gardner wrote: Since the fuse near the battery for the main power lead is only to protect the wiring, you just have to make sure that you use a fuse that will blow before the wire is damaged. In this case, a 135-amp fuse or breaker would do the trick. That's not the _only_ thing to worry about. In practice, it's far safer to use a fuse of equal or lesser rating to the fuses at the far end: you cannot need _more_ current, after all (and if you have multiple fused devices at the far end, in practice they will almost certainly never present maximum draw at exactly the same time), and a fuse of lesser rating at the battery will blow sooner if the wire is physically damaged, which is a real concern. A 2ga wire going through a grommet at the firewall that some later idiot knocks out of place is a lot less likely to start a fire if fused for the devices at the far end than if fused for the theoretical capacity of the wire (in practice, if you really _need_ 2ga because of the current draw, you're going to get a fire anyway if the insulation is damaged and it shorts to something, but you know what I mean). -- Thor Lancelot Simon "The inconsistency is startling, though admittedly, if consistency is to be abandoned or transcended, there is no problem." - Noam Chomsky |
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Scott Gardner wrote: On 1 Mar 2005 23:35:14 -0800, wrote: Fuse does not protecting the wire. Fuse is for protecting the device. Just read the manual of amplifier what it says about the fuse rating. Red Cloud (I'm going to start calling you by your old nickname, since it's easier to type than ), You really have no business giving advice in this group. Some day, someone is going to follow your silly advice and get hurt or set fire to their car. The fuse near the battery in the main power wire is NOT to protect the amplifier, it's to protect the wiring. The reason is, if you don't have a fuse in the main power wire and any part of it shorts to ground, the main power wire will catch fire. That's why you put the fuse in the main power wire as close to the battery as you can, so that the part of the wire that isn't protected by the fuse (the part of the wire between the battery and the fuse) is as short as possible. The amplifier is protected by its own fuses. The fuse near the battery is ONLY for protecting the wiring. Scott Gardner Scott Gardner, There is no such electronic theory of fuse protecting a wire. NO electronic class taught such misleading theory. The fuse is required from the power source to protecting the electronic device, and make sure that the current is not higher than required by device. The fuse of car amplifier is only fuse you need to protect the amplifier from the battery. What you have is you got a fuse for amplifier and another fuse for wi Sound very stupid. IN other word, you have two fuse in a serial wiring. That is so awful setting. I've never heard of connecting one fuse and after another. That is so stupid. YOu are so stupid. |
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wrote in message oups.com... Scott Gardner, There is no such electronic theory of fuse protecting a wire. NO electronic class taught such misleading theory. The fuse is required from the power source to protecting the electronic device, and make sure that the current is not higher than required by device. The fuse of car amplifier is only fuse you need to protect the amplifier from the battery. What you have is you got a fuse for amplifier and another fuse for wi Sound very stupid. IN other word, you have two fuse in a serial wiring. That is so awful setting. I've never heard of connecting one fuse and after another. That is so stupid. YOu are so stupid. I really can't believe I'm wasting my time responding to you.... Mmdir2002 (or Red Cloud, or whatever), we have all given you many reasons why the power cable to an amp is fused at the battery, and I'm not going to go through it again. I have to think that you are just yanking all of our chains as you could easily research this yourself and know that WE are right. Why do you do this? Please leave and go somewhere else. MOSFET |
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I will ask a simple question, and try to make it easy for you to
understand. If you have a power wire going from the battery to the amplifier, and the only fuse is at the amplifier, what happens if any part of the power wire shorts to ground? Mmdir2002, if you cannot answer this simple question, you have no business answering questions in this group. You have more one chance with me because I sense in some of your posts you are truly trying to help (though most here think you are hopeless). Please think carefully before answering. Thank you. MOSFET |
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Scott Gardner wrote: On 2 Mar 2005 20:05:07 -0800, wrote: Scott Gardner, There is no such electronic theory of fuse protecting a wire. NO electronic class taught such misleading theory. The fuse is required from the power source to protecting the electronic device, and make sure that the current is not higher than required by device. The fuse of car amplifier is only fuse you need to protect the amplifier from the battery. What you have is you got a fuse for amplifier and another fuse for wi Sound very stupid. IN other word, you have two fuse in a serial wiring. That is so awful setting. I've never heard of connecting one fuse and after another. That is so stupid. YOu are so stupid. I will ask a simple question, and try to make it easy for you to understand. If you have a power wire going from the battery to the amplifier, and the only fuse is at the amplifier, what happens if any part of the power wire shorts to ground? Then that only fuse of the amplifier will be cut off. That's right, you moron - the wire will burn through and the insulation will catch fire. Your car will probably catch fire, too. THAT is why any installer with a brain in his head puts a fuse in the main power wire, right next to the battery. Scott Gardner Let me play a devil advocate here. What you saying is you put another fuse at the battery (the power source), there are two ways power wire will cut off from the power source: 1) short it 2) higher current. #1 is very obvious. You forgot the #2. The fuse prevents from higher current to flow to the amplifier. But since there is another fuse at the amplier, you don't need another fuse. You only need one fuse to protect the amplifers. If you put a higher rating fuse at the battery, this fuse will not protect the amplifier because it does not operate at the amplifier's fuse rating recommendation. Your thoery is nonsense. But I don't need your theory because my amplifer is not connected to the battery. To connect the Amplifer or a CD unit directly to the battery is like a touch the burning fire with a bare hand. |
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