"Mister_B" wrote in message
...

Bob Wrote : Ah. Perfect. Found a review at Mobile Entertainment. Here's
a link
for anyone who might be researching this in the futu

http://www.m-emag.com/article.asp?s...2&page_number=1

Thanks to all for their help and for the debate about setting gains.
;-)

Bob

Great job finding the review Bob ! Anyways , besides Les coming in
and thread crapping if you set gains his way with an amp that is
overpowering the sub there is a greater chance of thermal death to the
sub

Bob, the chances of you blowing an IDMAX is unlikely. You would be surprised
at how little power you are actually using most of the time. And in the
transients that extra 110 watts is not a big deal. You could have an extra
500 watts and still be fine. Mister_B has little comprehension of real world
scenarios, which is obvious from his posts. I am not thread crapping, I am
pointing out that Mr Bs ways are inherently flawed. His way takes the
speakers, and therefore the ability to hear, out of the equation and places
all the trust in a meter. You could effectively do it this way using a dummy
load and a meter if you so desired, but what good would that do? Also, he
thinks they are actually accurate, but they are not even that. If he really
wants to get scientific about gain structure and unity gains etc then that's
a different matter.

. Use -3db test tones and the tutorial found here
http://jlaudio.com/tutorials/index.html

Well if he uses -3db test tones then he still would have the ability to give
the amp more input, which would result in more output.......So then you have
just given back that extra power that you were so desperately trying to
avoid earlier. What happened? And then what are you referencing with -3db?
Is it dbV or dbU? Or do you even know the different between the two?

I also see that you are now using -3db tones to have some semblence of
headroom, though 6db of headroom would make me happier, and given the crest
factor of most music 12db would be more suiting. It would appear that you
may have seen the error in setting things to max, which results in no
headroom. Which means it cannot get louder even when you want it too.

The second tutorial down - JL Audio knows better than Les

I am very certain there are individuals at JL that know more than I. But I
am also certain that their tech pages have many errors, use google and you
can find some examples. I am also certain that JL seemed to have declined to
answer the questions I asked them about their method of setting gain
structure. And JL does not address the inherent issues that I have raised.

And JL never says anything about 180Hz for the sub, which you originally
stated, nor about doing this with the crossovers off. So where did all this
nonsense come from? In fact, JL recommends turning the system back on, after
you are done, and adjusting the levels by ear to get the balance right! Why
the hell bother with using a meter in the first place? Just do it by ear to
begin with and you just saved yourself a lot of trouble.


, and so do
I which is why I bothered to further how to do it

You just keep telling yourself that. Meanwhile ponder the issues I have
raised and your lack of response to address them specifically.

You calculate what the reading on the multimeter should be as this
(rms power)-multiplied by-impedance .. squareroot of that total = volts

So 1000 watts driven into a 2 ohm load = 2000 = 44.72v
Set your sub up with crossovers off , 180hz tone and set your highs up
with x-overs off 1000hz tone ..

Bob,

I hope that you see the fallacy in setting gains using these tones and
meters. You should tune the system the way you listen to the system. Even
his only reference ends up tweaking things by ear, so why screw with the
meters in the first place? He thinks it is the most accurate way of doing
it, but it's not! To be truly 100% accurate, and not give a **** about SQ,
you would need more than a meter and a couple of tones. But either way it
doesn't matter. Just remember, it's your ears that have to listen to it
everyday, not a meter!

Les

Mister_B wrote in message ...
Bob Wrote : Ah. Perfect. Found a review at Mobile Entertainment. Here's
a link
for anyone who might be researching this in the futu

http://www.m-emag.com/article.asp?s...2&page_number=1

Thanks to all for their help and for the debate about setting gains.
;-)

Bob

Great job finding the review Bob ! Anyways , besides Les coming in
and thread crapping if you set gains his way with an amp that is
overpowering the sub there is a greater chance of thermal death to the
sub . Use -3db test tones and the tutorial found here
http://jlaudio.com/tutorials/index.html
The second tutorial down - JL Audio knows better than Les , and so do
I which is why I bothered to further how to do it
You calculate what the reading on the multimeter should be as this
(rms power)-multiplied by-impedance .. squareroot of that total = volts

So 1000 watts driven into a 2 ohm load = 2000 = 44.72v
Set your sub up with crossovers off , 180hz tone and set your highs up
with x-overs off 1000hz tone ..
Told ya the sub was VERY nice SQ wise !!

Outstanding. Now all I need to do is buy the sub and install
everything. Piece of cake. ROFL

Thanks Mister_B!

Bob

The second tutorial down - JL Audio knows better than Les

I am very certain there are individuals at JL that know more than I. But I
am also certain that their tech pages have many errors, use google and you
can find some examples. I am also certain that JL seemed to have declined to
answer the questions I asked them about their method of setting gain
structure. And JL does not address the inherent issues that I have raised.

I have to back up Les on this one. JL's tech site is loaded with errors
and misconceptions, many of which are refuted by other manufacturers and
common sense. I don't imagine one of their senior engineers actually
wrote it. Probably someone in the PR department who took one or two
introductory physics courses in college, as a requirement towards their
business degree.