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Delta Rebuild Update #1
Some have expressed interest in how my Delta rebuild project progresses.
So, here's a summary of what's been done so far. If interested, please come on along -- helpful comments, questions, and suggestions always welcome. If you're not interested, please killfile now, either on my name or on the subject keyphrase "Delta Rebuild Update" (I'll always use that in the subject line). == Acquired console August 2004 based on its functions, flexibility, and clean design for our main application: location live and location session work, mainly acoustic. Basic build quality seemed solid; best of all it was modular with lots of room on the boards -- easy to work on. Acquired PDF of schematic set. Ran off two sets of 20"x24" prints on the big plain-paper printers at the local blueprint house. Started studying as time allowed. Cursory tests showed that everything worked; further tests indicated most switches crunchy, but all faders in excellent health and only a few pots were bad. Ran 100 Hz through all channels to find bad switches (channel on, pan, pfl, eq on, line, phase, etc -- mostly all bad). Got 100+ new DPDT and 4PDT switches from Harmon. Good to know they still carry full spares for this model. Talked to Frank and Rene there; nice, helpful folks. Replaced bad switches, retested. Switching now solid and silent. TB function restored (another bad switch; but replaced electret TB capsule anyway based on age). Console used on a few sessions; intermittent phantom and PFL on some channels. At first assumed switching but was perplexed as most had been replaced. Instead, eventually concluded bad sockets on the master loom (ribbon cable assembly called "loom" by Soundcraft). Most contacts pretty relaxed on those 34 pin female connectors probably due to age; some were so loose they just fell off the board connector once the hold-down levers were released. Master loom many months on back order. Rene finally said he'd just build one. Next time I will probably get the $20 connector press and do my own. An audio systems designer friend suggests hardwiring; probably a good idea but mostly impractical; I'd rather just build a new loom every couple of years. New loom installed, all documented weird intermittent problems now seem gone. == Added a 2-gang pot to RH master so as to provide variable monitor dim, along with DPDT ON-OFF-ON toggle to provide switchable monitor dim, normal, and mute functions via a switch. (a small 20K linear is what I had in the parts box; an 50K log taper would likely be better.) Added a momentary mono switch. Very handy. It's convenient that these modules are built so that without too much hassle the PC board can be removed from the metal frame. Made using the drill press for switch and pot mounting holes much simpler. Also added PS rail LEDs. One unsettling thing about this unit is that the power supply shoebox has NO pilot lights, and there's nothing on the console that glows if it's just idling. Aside from running a signal, you have to press a channel "on" or PFL button to see if there's power; I prefer to know at a glance that incoming voltages are present. Located dim pot just above and to the right of the master faders (wiper and one leg from each dim pot segment replaced R151 and R51 on RH master). Mono and monitor switches nearby. Did little paper strip labels and glued to panel, matching the finish and lettering colors. Done with ink jet on plain paper; coated with artist's fixative. Not a perfect visual match, but very close and easier in this instance than some sort of press-on transfer. == After at first thinking it not possible, was finally able to break apart the TB switches and remove the latching assemblies, then reassemble -- all while the switch was still on the board. I prefer not to have a latching TB switch -- much more comfortable to push-and-hold/immediate-release the TB. Double-tapping a latching switch is annoying for TB. == Dropped in 2134s in the right and left hand master section. Outputs probed for HF oscillation; everything seemed fine, though aux sections might have some gunk. Replaced headphone jack (normalling jack in the control room monitor circuit). Much improved sonics, even doing nothing else. == Looked at 1KHz square wave into mic inputs all the way through to program outs. Initial sense of feeble LF now quite visible as downward tilt on trailing edge of square wave. Got worse and worse the farther along in the path. And the LF restriction seemed quite "hard" in that dialing in a few dB of bass boost via EQ would mostly level out the slope, but the last little bit always drooped, no matter what. So, replaced coupling caps with much larger Panasonics and bypassed with Wima films. Program summing amp input caps replaced with Black Gates. No more LF loss. Squarewave nice and level all the way through. Top end clean. Sounds relatively sweet even with a lot of top end dialed in. Not exactly warm, but acceptably neutral. Way better than what it was (thin with a layer of fuzziness). == Beware slip-on jumpers! A couple of the submasters were not passing signal, or would cut in and out as the board was tapped. Brushed against bus select jumper and signal came through loud and clear. Removed/inserted several times to firm up connection. Might go ahead and hardwire these jumpers. Places where aux send pre/post jumpers are used should be checked as well. == Replaced insert (normalling) and line in jacks. Replaced mic XLRs on those channels I'll use to supplement my outboard preamps. Those XLRs looked pretty bad and didn't want to clean up. Might be okay, but would rather not risk it. == Added EQ bypass switches to standard input modules where the EQ is otherwise in the circuit all the time. Nice to have that option as the kind of work we do does not require EQ a fair amount of the time. == Added mechanical coupler on master L/R program faders so that they cross-track perfectly all the time, at least to the limits of the fader electrical tolerances. This consisted of a precision drilling through the plastic fader caps. Hole sized for a tight fit of a 1" 4-40 machine screw; nut applied between the fader caps to provide mechanical support. Works great! No more inadvertent L/R channel imbalances, minor as they typically might be. Actually, this is pretty important as we do the 3-fader mid-side decode, and to work optimally the Side-minus and Side-plus signals need to stay perfectly equal in their levels. Locking the master faders means one less place to have to tweak for this. Also, board fades are a lot easier. == Aux send 1 had 7 volts DC on the output!! New caps and input transistors cured this. == Still to come.., Replace main PS with new 18V International Power linear. Use original PS as "hot backup", the two supplies wired together via diodes. Drop through diodes will then put the main rails at 17.4V; the backup rails at 16.4V. I assume I can get away with these slight voltage unders/overs. Socket rest of ICs with machined sockets and add 0.1 decoupler caps to each op amp supply rail throughout. Upgrade to handle "faster" chips. (47 pf in series with 100 ohms across op amp inputs, per Jim Williams.) Investigate noise floor and find optimal gain staging. Dynamic range is probably around 90-95 dB, but I'm only using 70 dB of that (0 dBFS at A-D). Most likely can push the console 5-10 dB harder, but haven't wanted to get into higher distortions. LED ladders on Delta match metering on external recorders/converters quite closely. That is, 0 dBFS on an external box is all LEDs lit on the Delta, both in and out. == Many thanks to Jim Williams, Scott Dorsey, Stephen Sank, Monte McGuire, Paul Stamler, Phil Allison, and others who provided valuable advice in recent months. This project would not have been possible without your help. == That's it for this update. Too long? Not enough? Frank Stearns Mobile Audio -- |
#2
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Hello from Finland
Is this a Soundcraft Delta project? If yes - i have a simple ( tested, too ) modification of how to foolproof the lousy channel ON-switches so, that the channel NEVER goes silent ( unless you want it ) and you DONīT have to cut anything on the board..... -- nuuska tm @ sci.fi - delete spaces +358400 44 35 36 "Frank Stearns" kirjoitti ... Some have expressed interest in how my Delta rebuild project progresses. So, here's a summary of what's been done so far. If interested, please come on along -- helpful comments, questions, and suggestions always welcome. If you're not interested, please killfile now, either on my name or on the subject keyphrase "Delta Rebuild Update" (I'll always use that in the subject line). == Acquired console August 2004 based on its functions, flexibility, and clean design for our main application: location live and location session work, mainly acoustic. Basic build quality seemed solid; best of all it was modular with lots of room on the boards -- easy to work on. Acquired PDF of schematic set. Ran off two sets of 20"x24" prints on the big plain-paper printers at the local blueprint house. Started studying as time allowed. Cursory tests showed that everything worked; further tests indicated most switches crunchy, but all faders in excellent health and only a few pots were bad. Ran 100 Hz through all channels to find bad switches (channel on, pan, pfl, eq on, line, phase, etc -- mostly all bad). Got 100+ new DPDT and 4PDT switches from Harmon. Good to know they still carry full spares for this model. Talked to Frank and Rene there; nice, helpful folks. Replaced bad switches, retested. Switching now solid and silent. TB function restored (another bad switch; but replaced electret TB capsule anyway based on age). Console used on a few sessions; intermittent phantom and PFL on some channels. At first assumed switching but was perplexed as most had been replaced. Instead, eventually concluded bad sockets on the master loom (ribbon cable assembly called "loom" by Soundcraft). Most contacts pretty relaxed on those 34 pin female connectors probably due to age; some were so loose they just fell off the board connector once the hold-down levers were released. Master loom many months on back order. Rene finally said he'd just build one. Next time I will probably get the $20 connector press and do my own. An audio systems designer friend suggests hardwiring; probably a good idea but mostly impractical; I'd rather just build a new loom every couple of years. New loom installed, all documented weird intermittent problems now seem gone. == Added a 2-gang pot to RH master so as to provide variable monitor dim, along with DPDT ON-OFF-ON toggle to provide switchable monitor dim, normal, and mute functions via a switch. (a small 20K linear is what I had in the parts box; an 50K log taper would likely be better.) Added a momentary mono switch. Very handy. It's convenient that these modules are built so that without too much hassle the PC board can be removed from the metal frame. Made using the drill press for switch and pot mounting holes much simpler. Also added PS rail LEDs. One unsettling thing about this unit is that the power supply shoebox has NO pilot lights, and there's nothing on the console that glows if it's just idling. Aside from running a signal, you have to press a channel "on" or PFL button to see if there's power; I prefer to know at a glance that incoming voltages are present. Located dim pot just above and to the right of the master faders (wiper and one leg from each dim pot segment replaced R151 and R51 on RH master). Mono and monitor switches nearby. Did little paper strip labels and glued to panel, matching the finish and lettering colors. Done with ink jet on plain paper; coated with artist's fixative. Not a perfect visual match, but very close and easier in this instance than some sort of press-on transfer. == After at first thinking it not possible, was finally able to break apart the TB switches and remove the latching assemblies, then reassemble -- all while the switch was still on the board. I prefer not to have a latching TB switch -- much more comfortable to push-and-hold/immediate-release the TB. Double-tapping a latching switch is annoying for TB. == Dropped in 2134s in the right and left hand master section. Outputs probed for HF oscillation; everything seemed fine, though aux sections might have some gunk. Replaced headphone jack (normalling jack in the control room monitor circuit). Much improved sonics, even doing nothing else. == Looked at 1KHz square wave into mic inputs all the way through to program outs. Initial sense of feeble LF now quite visible as downward tilt on trailing edge of square wave. Got worse and worse the farther along in the path. And the LF restriction seemed quite "hard" in that dialing in a few dB of bass boost via EQ would mostly level out the slope, but the last little bit always drooped, no matter what. So, replaced coupling caps with much larger Panasonics and bypassed with Wima films. Program summing amp input caps replaced with Black Gates. No more LF loss. Squarewave nice and level all the way through. Top end clean. Sounds relatively sweet even with a lot of top end dialed in. Not exactly warm, but acceptably neutral. Way better than what it was (thin with a layer of fuzziness). == Beware slip-on jumpers! A couple of the submasters were not passing signal, or would cut in and out as the board was tapped. Brushed against bus select jumper and signal came through loud and clear. Removed/inserted several times to firm up connection. Might go ahead and hardwire these jumpers. Places where aux send pre/post jumpers are used should be checked as well. == Replaced insert (normalling) and line in jacks. Replaced mic XLRs on those channels I'll use to supplement my outboard preamps. Those XLRs looked pretty bad and didn't want to clean up. Might be okay, but would rather not risk it. == Added EQ bypass switches to standard input modules where the EQ is otherwise in the circuit all the time. Nice to have that option as the kind of work we do does not require EQ a fair amount of the time. == Added mechanical coupler on master L/R program faders so that they cross-track perfectly all the time, at least to the limits of the fader electrical tolerances. This consisted of a precision drilling through the plastic fader caps. Hole sized for a tight fit of a 1" 4-40 machine screw; nut applied between the fader caps to provide mechanical support. Works great! No more inadvertent L/R channel imbalances, minor as they typically might be. Actually, this is pretty important as we do the 3-fader mid-side decode, and to work optimally the Side-minus and Side-plus signals need to stay perfectly equal in their levels. Locking the master faders means one less place to have to tweak for this. Also, board fades are a lot easier. == Aux send 1 had 7 volts DC on the output!! New caps and input transistors cured this. == Still to come.., Replace main PS with new 18V International Power linear. Use original PS as "hot backup", the two supplies wired together via diodes. Drop through diodes will then put the main rails at 17.4V; the backup rails at 16.4V. I assume I can get away with these slight voltage unders/overs. Socket rest of ICs with machined sockets and add 0.1 decoupler caps to each op amp supply rail throughout. Upgrade to handle "faster" chips. (47 pf in series with 100 ohms across op amp inputs, per Jim Williams.) Investigate noise floor and find optimal gain staging. Dynamic range is probably around 90-95 dB, but I'm only using 70 dB of that (0 dBFS at A-D). Most likely can push the console 5-10 dB harder, but haven't wanted to get into higher distortions. LED ladders on Delta match metering on external recorders/converters quite closely. That is, 0 dBFS on an external box is all LEDs lit on the Delta, both in and out. == Many thanks to Jim Williams, Scott Dorsey, Stephen Sank, Monte McGuire, Paul Stamler, Phil Allison, and others who provided valuable advice in recent months. This project would not have been possible without your help. == That's it for this update. Too long? Not enough? Frank Stearns Mobile Audio -- . |
#3
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I have one too. Replace the worn switch. Inject a very small amount of
Stabilant 22A. Work the solution by pushing the switch. Now they will last for at least 30 years. Did this to mine in 1995 and they all still work like new. Re-solder all the switch and pots and especially the jacks. They used a thin flow solder so they commonly work loose. Replace those **** alps faders with conductive plastic. I use TKD's. These alps faders suck the air out of the mix. You can hear it by reducing the input trim 10 db and the shove the fader all the way up. Hear the improved clarity? Replace the mono faders in the stereo module with a stereo one. They are laser matched. Solves the miss match of two crap mono faders. Then you can wire the mono fader up for variable mono outs. Jim Williams Audio Upgrades |
#4
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Replace those **** alps faders with conductive plastic. I use TKD's. These alps faders suck the air out of the mix. You can hear it by reducing the input trim 10 db and the shove the fader all the way up. Hear the improved clarity? Jim Williams Audio Upgrades Are you saying that changing the faders to conductive plastic can make an improvement to the sound "clarity" when the faders are sitting stationary and all the way up, i.e. at 0 dB attenuation? Would you happen to have any explanation of how this could happen? Mark |
#5
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In article .com,
"Mark" wrote: Replace those **** alps faders with conductive plastic. I use TKD's. These alps faders suck the air out of the mix. You can hear it by reducing the input trim 10 db and the shove the fader all the way up. Hear the improved clarity? Jim Williams Audio Upgrades Are you saying that changing the faders to conductive plastic can make an improvement to the sound "clarity" when the faders are sitting stationary and all the way up, i.e. at 0 dB attenuation? Would you happen to have any explanation of how this could happen? Mark No, he's saying the sound improves when the Alps faders are full up and not attenuating the signal. Frankly, I like the sound of the stock 200 Delta we've been using for live electroacoustic concerts for the last decade. Sometime I will have to get the hum out of the stereo output strip, though. -Jay -- x------- Jay Kadis ------- x---- Jay's Attic Studio ------x x Lecturer, Audio Engineer x Dexter Records x x CCRMA, Stanford University x http://www.offbeats.com/ x x---------- http://ccrma.stanford.edu/~jay/ ------------x |
#6
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This is a great thread - thanks Frank!
dave |
#7
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#8
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"Frank Stearns" wrote:
Master loom many months on back order. Rene finally said he'd just build one. Next time I will probably get the $20 connector press and do my own. Wanna make one for me? I'm too klutzy. Double-tapping a latching switch is annoying for TB. Dangerous, too. Accidentally latching the TB has resulted in a *cough* "critique" or two being overheard by the talent that I would have preferred they not hear. Looked at 1KHz square wave into mic inputs all the way through to program outs. Initial sense of feeble LF now quite visible as downward tilt on trailing edge of square wave. [...] So, replaced coupling caps with much larger Panasonics and bypassed with Wima films. Program summing amp input caps replaced with Black Gates. More details? Specific models/values/locations? That's it for this update. Too long? Not enough? Keep 'em coming! -- "It CAN'T be too loud... some of the red lights aren't even on yet!" - Lorin David Schultz in the control room making even bad news sound good (Remove spamblock to reply) |
#9
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"Lorin David Schultz" writes:
"Frank Stearns" wrote: Master loom many months on back order. Rene finally said he'd just build one. Next time I will probably get the $20 connector press and do my own. Wanna make one for me? I'm too klutzy. Harmon only charged about $72 for the 16 input version (16 input positions + 4 subs + master), and then $24 or so for the smaller monitor loom that runs across the subs, LR master, and then into the CR out/2 track return jack block. To make them I'll need to get the connector press, ribbon, and connectors, probably $40-50 total. But then there's labor. You'd save money going to Harmon. Double-tapping a latching switch is annoying for TB. Dangerous, too. Accidentally latching the TB has resulted in a *cough* "critique" or two being overheard by the talent that I would have preferred they not hear. Yeeee-up. g Looked at 1KHz square wave into mic inputs all the way through to program outs. Initial sense of feeble LF now quite visible as downward tilt on trailing edge of square wave. [...] So, replaced coupling caps with much larger Panasonics and bypassed with Wima films. Program summing amp input caps replaced with Black Gates. More details? Specific models/values/locations? Oops. I lied, not Panasonics but Nichicon Muse series. 4x stock value where possible, 2x in other places (most of the interstage couplers are 47 uF; took them up to 220 or at least 100; others where the stock value was larger I took to 330 or 470 as space allowed). I elected to remove and jumper the cap positions on the insert returns as I seldom use channel inserts. (And when I do it's known gear.) There was no room to put anything larger than the 1000 uf for the mix bus summers, so I sprung for the Black Gates (at a whopping $4.50 each). I had originally hoped to jumper many more caps but found more offsets than expected, even when using an amp like the OP275, which maintains next to zero offset even with large rail imbalances. Not sure exactly where the offsets are coming from. Jim Williams was kind enough to share his expertise and he gave some really good ideas; do a search on his posts to this group on the various Delta threads. That's it for this update. Too long? Not enough? Keep 'em coming! Will do, as time allows (and as things prove out!!). Frank Stearns Mobile Audio -- |
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