[Robert[_4_]]

I am planning an audio upgrade and need some help on the best way to
wire it. I have:
Rockford Fosgate P325.2 Amp
Rockford Fosgate P450.4 Amp
Pioneer DEH590IB Head Unit (3 X 4V preouts - front / rear / sub)
10in infiniti kappa perfect sub (4 ohm)
pioneer front / rear (4 ohm)
Stinger SWCKH44 multi amp wiring kit. (comes with 2 RCA interconnects)

Assume:
1. Bridging sub on 2 channel amp
2. powering 4 speakers from 4 channel amp.

Is it better to:
1. Connect the front / rear RCA outs from the head unit to the 4
channel amp and then LPF pass thru to the 2 channel amp for the sub?
(running 2 rca's)

2. Run 3 RCA's from the head unit (f/r/s). 2 (front and rear) to the 4
channel amp, and 1 (sub) to the 2 channel amp? (would need an extra
RCA cable....money isn't a concern if better sounding)

[lust4sound]

I'm new here but this is simple enough, thought I'd throw my 2 cents in
and try to help. I hope I don't offend any of the resident Car Audio
Scholars with my meddling. First off, buy the extra cable for the sub
and run it. Since the head unit features pre-outs for all 6 channels,
take advantage of this, you paid extra money for this feature. The neat
thing about this feature is that it gives you control of all the
channels right from the head unit. If your head unit has built in
crossovers that are easy to define and use, you should use them as
well. This combination of features makes it so much more convenient to
dial in a good sound right from the drivers seat. Don't, I repeat DO
NOT skimp on cables. For best results with minimal signal loss and no
interference, make sure all of your RCA cables are of the highest
quality. The 12 dollar Radio Shack jobs are not really up to snuff.
Assuming that your head unit has built in crossovers and a separate
subwoofer level control, set your amps to full range (if they allow you
to do so) use your head unit to dial in the sound. Be sure to run amp
power leads through one side of your car, RCA cables through the other,
this to help insure you won't be getting any electrical interference
from the cars charging system regardless of how expensive your RCA
cables are. Don't skimp on amp power wires either, you want to keep
your amps fed with plenty of current through the thickest wires they
will accept. It is a good idea to run at least a 4 gage all the way
from the battery to the amps and use a distribution block to step it
down to 8 gage (thinner wire) as close to the amps as possible, this to
ensure max current flow (I'm assuming the amps will not accept thicker
than 8 gage) Keep your ground wire as short as possible. Follow the
first example with this, using 4 gage all the way to the amps, then
using a distribution block to step down to 8 gage right at the amps.
When grounding, it is important to have a freshly exposed shiny metal
surface to ground to. rTo do this, you may have to remove any paint
down to the bare metal, remove also any dirt, oil or contaminants in
this area. Sandpaper to remove paint and contaminants, followed by
rubbing alcohol. Oil or grease should be removed with a solvent first,
wiped dry with a clean rag then sanded, then wiped clean with alcohol
and a clean rag. To maintain a good contact surface, treat the freshly
exposed metal surface with a silicon that is used for electrical
contacts. The idea is getting a freshly exposed metal surface for
grounding, and keeping it that way by preventing corrosion. (make sure
the battery terminals are treated the same way, remove them from the
battery, using a battery terminal cleaner/brush, brush, clean and spray
them as well) This helps to insure max current to your amps. 1 other
thing, if you're bridging the sub amp, make sure it's not getting any
less than a 4 ohm load. I'm assuming you already know all of this, just
thought I'd throw it out there. If you find any of this info to be
useful and are looking for some tips on tuning, post a reply, I'll be
more than happy to help. Sorry if I stepped on anyones toes, I know
there are some forums that are dominated by territorial tutors that
take offense when anyone new tries to answer questions.. Hope it helps.
Good luck.


--
lust4sound
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[mfreak]

I'd run 3 sets of RCA's, then you'll be able to use your fader and sub
level settings on your HU.

[Robert[_4_]]

That configuration is also what I thought would be best. Although, I
have a fairly credible source that hands down says it is better to go
with option[1]. I know the HU does have fairly good control over the
outputs. I am pretty sure I am going to go with option[2], unless
anyone else has a good argument.....

[Robert[_4_]]

On Dec 3, 8:23 pm, lust4sound lust4sound.311...@no-
mx.caraudioforum.com wrote:
I'm new here but this is simple enough, thought I'd throw my 2 cents in
and try to help. I hope I don't offend any of the resident Car Audio
Scholars with my meddling. First off, buy the extra cable for the sub
and run it. Since the head unit features pre-outs for all 6 channels,
take advantage of this, you paid extra money for this feature. The neat
thing about this feature is that it gives you control of all the
channels right from the head unit. If your head unit has built in
crossovers that are easy to define and use, you should use them as
well. This combination of features makes it so much more convenient to
dial in a good sound right from the drivers seat. Don't, I repeat DO
NOT skimp on cables. For best results with minimal signal loss and no
interference, make sure all of your RCA cables are of the highest
quality. The 12 dollar Radio Shack jobs are not really up to snuff.
Assuming that your head unit has built in crossovers and a separate
subwoofer level control, set your amps to full range (if they allow you
to do so) use your head unit to dial in the sound. Be sure to run amp
power leads through one side of your car, RCA cables through the other,
this to help insure you won't be getting any electrical interference
from the cars charging system regardless of how expensive your RCA
cables are. Don't skimp on amp power wires either, you want to keep
your amps fed with plenty of current through the thickest wires they
will accept. It is a good idea to run at least a 4 gage all the way
from the battery to the amps and use a distribution block to step it
down to 8 gage (thinner wire) as close to the amps as possible, this to
ensure max current flow (I'm assuming the amps will not accept thicker
than 8 gage) Keep your ground wire as short as possible. Follow the
first example with this, using 4 gage all the way to the amps, then
using a distribution block to step down to 8 gage right at the amps.
When grounding, it is important to have a freshly exposed shiny metal
surface to ground to. rTo do this, you may have to remove any paint
down to the bare metal, remove also any dirt, oil or contaminants in
this area. Sandpaper to remove paint and contaminants, followed by
rubbing alcohol. Oil or grease should be removed with a solvent first,
wiped dry with a clean rag then sanded, then wiped clean with alcohol
and a clean rag. To maintain a good contact surface, treat the freshly
exposed metal surface with a silicon that is used for electrical
contacts. The idea is getting a freshly exposed metal surface for
grounding, and keeping it that way by preventing corrosion. (make sure
the battery terminals are treated the same way, remove them from the
battery, using a battery terminal cleaner/brush, brush, clean and spray
them as well) This helps to insure max current to your amps. 1 other
thing, if you're bridging the sub amp, make sure it's not getting any
less than a 4 ohm load. I'm assuming you already know all of this, just
thought I'd throw it out there. If you find any of this info to be
useful and are looking for some tips on tuning, post a reply, I'll be
more than happy to help. Sorry if I stepped on anyones toes, I know
there are some forums that are dominated by territorial tutors that
take offense when anyone new tries to answer questions.. Hope it helps.
Good luck.

--
lust4sound
------------------------------------------------------------------------
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--
Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com

Thanks for you response, it was helpful. If you notice the procurement
list, we have the same rule about not skimping on wiring.and caps.
[The kit cost more than any other component )]

[lust4sound[_3_]]

Robert Wrote:
On Dec 3, 8:23 pm, lust4sound lust4sound.311...@no-
mx.caraudioforum.com wrote:
I'm new here but this is simple enough, thought I'd throw my 2 cents
in
and try to help. I hope I don't offend any of the resident Car Audio
Scholars with my meddling. First off, buy the extra cable for the
sub
and run it. Since the head unit features pre-outs for all 6
channels,
take advantage of this, you paid extra money for this feature. The
neat
thing about this feature is that it gives you control of all the
channels right from the head unit. If your head unit has built in
crossovers that are easy to define and use, you should use them as
well. This combination of features makes it so much more convenient
to
dial in a good sound right from the drivers seat. Don't, I repeat DO
NOT skimp on cables. For best results with minimal signal loss and
no
interference, make sure all of your RCA cables are of the highest
quality. The 12 dollar Radio Shack jobs are not really up to snuff.
Assuming that your head unit has built in crossovers and a separate
subwoofer level control, set your amps to full range (if they allow
you
to do so) use your head unit to dial in the sound. Be sure to run
amp
power leads through one side of your car, RCA cables through the
other,
this to help insure you won't be getting any electrical interference
from the cars charging system regardless of how expensive your RCA
cables are. Don't skimp on amp power wires either, you want to keep
your amps fed with plenty of current through the thickest wires they
will accept. It is a good idea to run at least a 4 gage all the way
from the battery to the amps and use a distribution block to step it
down to 8 gage (thinner wire) as close to the amps as possible, this
to
ensure max current flow (I'm assuming the amps will not accept
thicker
than 8 gage) Keep your ground wire as short as possible. Follow the
first example with this, using 4 gage all the way to the amps, then
using a distribution block to step down to 8 gage right at the amps.
When grounding, it is important to have a freshly exposed shiny
metal
surface to ground to. rTo do this, you may have to remove any paint
down to the bare metal, remove also any dirt, oil or contaminants in
this area. Sandpaper to remove paint and contaminants, followed by
rubbing alcohol. Oil or grease should be removed with a solvent
first,
wiped dry with a clean rag then sanded, then wiped clean with
alcohol
and a clean rag. To maintain a good contact surface, treat the
freshly
exposed metal surface with a silicon that is used for electrical
contacts. The idea is getting a freshly exposed metal surface for
grounding, and keeping it that way by preventing corrosion. (make
sure
the battery terminals are treated the same way, remove them from the
battery, using a battery terminal cleaner/brush, brush, clean and
spray
them as well) This helps to insure max current to your amps. 1 other
thing, if you're bridging the sub amp, make sure it's not getting
any
less than a 4 ohm load. I'm assuming you already know all of this,
just
thought I'd throw it out there. If you find any of this info to be
useful and are looking for some tips on tuning, post a reply, I'll
be
more than happy to help. Sorry if I stepped on anyones toes, I know
there are some forums that are dominated by territorial tutors that
take offense when anyone new tries to answer questions.. Hope it
helps.
Good luck.

--
lust4sound

------------------------------------------------------------------------
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thread:http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...d.php?t=285937
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Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com

Thanks for you response, it was helpful. If you notice the procurement
list, we have the same rule about not skimping on wiring.and caps.
[The kit cost more than any other component )]
Good stuff. You seem to have your sh*t together, I'm sure it will work
out just fine. I'm not a seasoned Veteran, as a matter of fact, I'm
more qualified to learn than I am to give advice, but this topic is
like Car Audio 101. 1 of the basic rule of thumb things you learn, so I
figured I'd throw it out there. Glad it helped. Good luck!!


--
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[lust4sound[_2_]]

Robert Wrote:
On Dec 4, 8:44 pm, " wrote:
On Dec 3, 9:23 pm, lust4sound lust4sound.311...@no-



mx.caraudioforum.com wrote:
I'm new here but this is simple enough, thought I'd throw my 2
cents in
and try to help. I hope I don't offend any of the resident Car
Audio
Scholars with my meddling. First off, buy the extra cable for the
sub
and run it. Since the head unit features pre-outs for all 6
channels,
take advantage of this, you paid extra money for this feature. The
neat
thing about this feature is that it gives you control of all the
channels right from the head unit. If your head unit has built in
crossovers that are easy to define and use, you should use them as
well. This combination of features makes it so much more convenient
to
dial in a good sound right from the drivers seat. Don't, I repeat
DO
NOT skimp on cables. For best results with minimal signal loss and
no
interference, make sure all of your RCA cables are of the highest
quality. The 12 dollar Radio Shack jobs are not really up to
snuff.
Assuming that your head unit has built in crossovers and a
separate
subwoofer level control, set your amps to full range (if they allow
you
to do so) use your head unit to dial in the sound. Be sure to run
amp
power leads through one side of your car, RCA cables through the
other,
this to help insure you won't be getting any electrical
interference
from the cars charging system regardless of how expensive your RCA
cables are. Don't skimp on amp power wires either, you want to
keep
your amps fed with plenty of current through the thickest wires
they
will accept. It is a good idea to run at least a 4 gage all the
way
from the battery to the amps and use a distribution block to step
it
down to 8 gage (thinner wire) as close to the amps as possible,
this to
ensure max current flow (I'm assuming the amps will not accept
thicker
than 8 gage) Keep your ground wire as short as possible. Follow
the
first example with this, using 4 gage all the way to the amps,
then
using a distribution block to step down to 8 gage right at the
amps.
When grounding, it is important to have a freshly exposed shiny
metal
surface to ground to. rTo do this, you may have to remove any
paint
down to the bare metal, remove also any dirt, oil or contaminants
in
this area. Sandpaper to remove paint and contaminants, followed by
rubbing alcohol. Oil or grease should be removed with a solvent
first,
wiped dry with a clean rag then sanded, then wiped clean with
alcohol
and a clean rag. To maintain a good contact surface, treat the
freshly
exposed metal surface with a silicon that is used for electrical
contacts. The idea is getting a freshly exposed metal surface for
grounding, and keeping it that way by preventing corrosion. (make
sure
the battery terminals are treated the same way, remove them from
the
battery, using a battery terminal cleaner/brush, brush, clean and
spray
them as well) This helps to insure max current to your amps. 1
other
thing, if you're bridging the sub amp, make sure it's not getting
any
less than a 4 ohm load. I'm assuming you already know all of this,
just
thought I'd throw it out there. If you find any of this info to be
useful and are looking for some tips on tuning, post a reply, I'll
be
more than happy to help. Sorry if I stepped on anyones toes, I
know
there are some forums that are dominated by territorial tutors
that
take offense when anyone new tries to answer questions.. Hope it
helps.
Good luck.

--
lust4sound

------------------------------------------------------------------------
lust4sound's Profile: 55269
View this
thread:http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...d.php?t=285937
CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over TWO million posts
online!

We weren't referring to the brand RCA, but RCA type connectors.
Otherwise known at the red and white plugs.
As for running signal and power cables together refer to:
http://www.roclife.org/forums/showthread.php?t=49990

or...any other audio forum on the internet. If you still aren't
convinced I will send you phase diagrams for high current draws.
And the Stinger multi amp kit comes with more than just the 2 RCA
cables, they were the only components salient to my problem. It
actually comes with:
a main fuse, a distribution block, 2 in line fuses for 2-4 amps, a 1.2
Farad Capacitor, 50ft of 16 ga speaker wire, 4 ga power wires,
etc ,etc
http://tinyurl.com/37q683



Cheers
What did a setup like that cost?


--
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[[email protected]]

On Dec 3, 9:23 pm, lust4sound lust4sound.311...@no-
mx.caraudioforum.com wrote:
I'm new here but this is simple enough, thought I'd throw my 2 cents in
and try to help. I hope I don't offend any of the resident Car Audio
Scholars with my meddling. First off, buy the extra cable for the sub
and run it. Since the head unit features pre-outs for all 6 channels,
take advantage of this, you paid extra money for this feature. The neat
thing about this feature is that it gives you control of all the
channels right from the head unit. If your head unit has built in
crossovers that are easy to define and use, you should use them as
well. This combination of features makes it so much more convenient to
dial in a good sound right from the drivers seat. Don't, I repeat DO
NOT skimp on cables. For best results with minimal signal loss and no
interference, make sure all of your RCA cables are of the highest
quality. The 12 dollar Radio Shack jobs are not really up to snuff.
Assuming that your head unit has built in crossovers and a separate
subwoofer level control, set your amps to full range (if they allow you
to do so) use your head unit to dial in the sound. Be sure to run amp
power leads through one side of your car, RCA cables through the other,
this to help insure you won't be getting any electrical interference
from the cars charging system regardless of how expensive your RCA
cables are. Don't skimp on amp power wires either, you want to keep
your amps fed with plenty of current through the thickest wires they
will accept. It is a good idea to run at least a 4 gage all the way
from the battery to the amps and use a distribution block to step it
down to 8 gage (thinner wire) as close to the amps as possible, this to
ensure max current flow (I'm assuming the amps will not accept thicker
than 8 gage) Keep your ground wire as short as possible. Follow the
first example with this, using 4 gage all the way to the amps, then
using a distribution block to step down to 8 gage right at the amps.
When grounding, it is important to have a freshly exposed shiny metal
surface to ground to. rTo do this, you may have to remove any paint
down to the bare metal, remove also any dirt, oil or contaminants in
this area. Sandpaper to remove paint and contaminants, followed by
rubbing alcohol. Oil or grease should be removed with a solvent first,
wiped dry with a clean rag then sanded, then wiped clean with alcohol
and a clean rag. To maintain a good contact surface, treat the freshly
exposed metal surface with a silicon that is used for electrical
contacts. The idea is getting a freshly exposed metal surface for
grounding, and keeping it that way by preventing corrosion. (make sure
the battery terminals are treated the same way, remove them from the
battery, using a battery terminal cleaner/brush, brush, clean and spray
them as well) This helps to insure max current to your amps. 1 other
thing, if you're bridging the sub amp, make sure it's not getting any
less than a 4 ohm load. I'm assuming you already know all of this, just
thought I'd throw it out there. If you find any of this info to be
useful and are looking for some tips on tuning, post a reply, I'll be
more than happy to help. Sorry if I stepped on anyones toes, I know
there are some forums that are dominated by territorial tutors that
take offense when anyone new tries to answer questions.. Hope it helps.
Good luck.

--
lust4sound
------------------------------------------------------------------------
lust4sound's Profile: 55269
View this thread:http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...d.php?t=285937
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--
Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com

i have RCA cables i also ran power wire and RCA together. I would
be interested to know what ungodly great advantage a super high price
RCA cable has over a 12 dollar RCA cable.

[Robert[_4_]]

On Dec 4, 8:44 pm, " wrote:
On Dec 3, 9:23 pm, lust4sound lust4sound.311...@no-



mx.caraudioforum.com wrote:
I'm new here but this is simple enough, thought I'd throw my 2 cents in
and try to help. I hope I don't offend any of the resident Car Audio
Scholars with my meddling. First off, buy the extra cable for the sub
and run it. Since the head unit features pre-outs for all 6 channels,
take advantage of this, you paid extra money for this feature. The neat
thing about this feature is that it gives you control of all the
channels right from the head unit. If your head unit has built in
crossovers that are easy to define and use, you should use them as
well. This combination of features makes it so much more convenient to
dial in a good sound right from the drivers seat. Don't, I repeat DO
NOT skimp on cables. For best results with minimal signal loss and no
interference, make sure all of your RCA cables are of the highest
quality. The 12 dollar Radio Shack jobs are not really up to snuff.
Assuming that your head unit has built in crossovers and a separate
subwoofer level control, set your amps to full range (if they allow you
to do so) use your head unit to dial in the sound. Be sure to run amp
power leads through one side of your car, RCA cables through the other,
this to help insure you won't be getting any electrical interference
from the cars charging system regardless of how expensive your RCA
cables are. Don't skimp on amp power wires either, you want to keep
your amps fed with plenty of current through the thickest wires they
will accept. It is a good idea to run at least a 4 gage all the way
from the battery to the amps and use a distribution block to step it
down to 8 gage (thinner wire) as close to the amps as possible, this to
ensure max current flow (I'm assuming the amps will not accept thicker
than 8 gage) Keep your ground wire as short as possible. Follow the
first example with this, using 4 gage all the way to the amps, then
using a distribution block to step down to 8 gage right at the amps.
When grounding, it is important to have a freshly exposed shiny metal
surface to ground to. rTo do this, you may have to remove any paint
down to the bare metal, remove also any dirt, oil or contaminants in
this area. Sandpaper to remove paint and contaminants, followed by
rubbing alcohol. Oil or grease should be removed with a solvent first,
wiped dry with a clean rag then sanded, then wiped clean with alcohol
and a clean rag. To maintain a good contact surface, treat the freshly
exposed metal surface with a silicon that is used for electrical
contacts. The idea is getting a freshly exposed metal surface for
grounding, and keeping it that way by preventing corrosion. (make sure
the battery terminals are treated the same way, remove them from the
battery, using a battery terminal cleaner/brush, brush, clean and spray
them as well) This helps to insure max current to your amps. 1 other
thing, if you're bridging the sub amp, make sure it's not getting any
less than a 4 ohm load. I'm assuming you already know all of this, just
thought I'd throw it out there. If you find any of this info to be
useful and are looking for some tips on tuning, post a reply, I'll be
more than happy to help. Sorry if I stepped on anyones toes, I know
there are some forums that are dominated by territorial tutors that
take offense when anyone new tries to answer questions.. Hope it helps.
Good luck.

--
lust4sound
------------------------------------------------------------------------
lust4sound's Profile: 55269
View this thread:http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...d.php?t=285937
CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over TWO million posts online!

We weren't referring to the brand RCA, but RCA type connectors.
Otherwise known at the red and white plugs.
As for running signal and power cables together refer to:
http://www.roclife.org/forums/showthread.php?t=49990

or...any other audio forum on the internet. If you still aren't
convinced I will send you phase diagrams for high current draws.
And the Stinger multi amp kit comes with more than just the 2 RCA
cables, they were the only components salient to my problem. It
actually comes with:
a main fuse, a distribution block, 2 in line fuses for 2-4 amps, a 1.2
Farad Capacitor, 50ft of 16 ga speaker wire, 4 ga power wires,
etc ,etc
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...id/0/SFV/30046



Cheers

[[email protected]]

On Dec 4, 10:42 pm, Robert wrote:
On Dec 4, 8:44 pm, " wrote:



On Dec 3, 9:23 pm, lust4sound lust4sound.311...@no-

mx.caraudioforum.com wrote:
I'm new here but this is simple enough, thought I'd throw my 2 cents in
and try to help. I hope I don't offend any of the resident Car Audio
Scholars with my meddling. First off, buy the extra cable for the sub
and run it. Since the head unit features pre-outs for all 6 channels,
take advantage of this, you paid extra money for this feature. The neat
thing about this feature is that it gives you control of all the
channels right from the head unit. If your head unit has built in
crossovers that are easy to define and use, you should use them as
well. This combination of features makes it so much more convenient to
dial in a good sound right from the drivers seat. Don't, I repeat DO
NOT skimp on cables. For best results with minimal signal loss and no
interference, make sure all of your RCA cables are of the highest
quality. The 12 dollar Radio Shack jobs are not really up to snuff.
Assuming that your head unit has built in crossovers and a separate
subwoofer level control, set your amps to full range (if they allow you
to do so) use your head unit to dial in the sound. Be sure to run amp
power leads through one side of your car, RCA cables through the other,
this to help insure you won't be getting any electrical interference
from the cars charging system regardless of how expensive your RCA
cables are. Don't skimp on amp power wires either, you want to keep
your amps fed with plenty of current through the thickest wires they
will accept. It is a good idea to run at least a 4 gage all the way
from the battery to the amps and use a distribution block to step it
down to 8 gage (thinner wire) as close to the amps as possible, this to
ensure max current flow (I'm assuming the amps will not accept thicker
than 8 gage) Keep your ground wire as short as possible. Follow the
first example with this, using 4 gage all the way to the amps, then
using a distribution block to step down to 8 gage right at the amps.
When grounding, it is important to have a freshly exposed shiny metal
surface to ground to. rTo do this, you may have to remove any paint
down to the bare metal, remove also any dirt, oil or contaminants in
this area. Sandpaper to remove paint and contaminants, followed by
rubbing alcohol. Oil or grease should be removed with a solvent first,
wiped dry with a clean rag then sanded, then wiped clean with alcohol
and a clean rag. To maintain a good contact surface, treat the freshly
exposed metal surface with a silicon that is used for electrical
contacts. The idea is getting a freshly exposed metal surface for
grounding, and keeping it that way by preventing corrosion. (make sure
the battery terminals are treated the same way, remove them from the
battery, using a battery terminal cleaner/brush, brush, clean and spray
them as well) This helps to insure max current to your amps. 1 other
thing, if you're bridging the sub amp, make sure it's not getting any
less than a 4 ohm load. I'm assuming you already know all of this, just
thought I'd throw it out there. If you find any of this info to be
useful and are looking for some tips on tuning, post a reply, I'll be
more than happy to help. Sorry if I stepped on anyones toes, I know
there are some forums that are dominated by territorial tutors that
take offense when anyone new tries to answer questions.. Hope it helps.
Good luck.

--
lust4sound
------------------------------------------------------------------------
lust4sound's Profile: 55269
View this thread:http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...d.php?t=285937
CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over TWO million posts online!

We weren't referring to the brand RCA, but RCA type connectors.
Otherwise known at the red and white plugs.
As for running signal and power cables together refer to:http://www.roclife.org/forums/showthread.php?t=49990

or...any other audio forum on the internet. If you still aren't
convinced I will send you phase diagrams for high current draws.
And the Stinger multi amp kit comes with more than just the 2 RCA
cables, they were the only components salient to my problem. It
actually comes with:
a main fuse, a distribution block, 2 in line fuses for 2-4 amps, a 1.2
Farad Capacitor, 50ft of 16 ga speaker wire, 4 ga power wires,
etc ,etchttp://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/14225...

Cheers- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yes...i had red and white RCA connections running from my deck to my
amp, from Radioshack, goldtip (although probably not actual gold )
but anyways all im saying is what you say may be true and it might
happen in some cases but I the exact same 'quality' of sound with
those cables as my other expensive cables. Also i ran it right next to
my 4 ga. power wire all the way up to the amp so im not saying its not
true just saying that i have done it before and never had a problem
with it.

[Robert[_4_]]

On Dec 4, 6:58 pm, lust4sound lust4sound.313...@no-
mx.caraudioforum.com wrote:
Robert Wrote:



On Dec 4, 8:44 pm, " wrote:
On Dec 3, 9:23 pm, lust4sound lust4sound.311...@no-

mx.caraudioforum.com wrote:
I'm new here but this is simple enough, thought I'd throw my 2
cents in
and try to help. I hope I don't offend any of the resident Car
Audio
Scholars with my meddling. First off, buy the extra cable for the
sub
and run it. Since the head unit features pre-outs for all 6
channels,
take advantage of this, you paid extra money for this feature. The
neat
thing about this feature is that it gives you control of all the
channels right from the head unit. If your head unit has built in
crossovers that are easy to define and use, you should use them as
well. This combination of features makes it so much more convenient
to
dial in a good sound right from the drivers seat. Don't, I repeat
DO
NOT skimp on cables. For best results with minimal signal loss and
no
interference, make sure all of your RCA cables are of the highest
quality. The 12 dollar Radio Shack jobs are not really up to
snuff.
Assuming that your head unit has built in crossovers and a
separate
subwoofer level control, set your amps to full range (if they allow
you
to do so) use your head unit to dial in the sound. Be sure to run
amp
power leads through one side of your car, RCA cables through the
other,
this to help insure you won't be getting any electrical
interference
from the cars charging system regardless of how expensive your RCA
cables are. Don't skimp on amp power wires either, you want to
keep
your amps fed with plenty of current through the thickest wires
they
will accept. It is a good idea to run at least a 4 gage all the
way
from the battery to the amps and use a distribution block to step
it
down to 8 gage (thinner wire) as close to the amps as possible,
this to
ensure max current flow (I'm assuming the amps will not accept
thicker
than 8 gage) Keep your ground wire as short as possible. Follow
the
first example with this, using 4 gage all the way to the amps,
then
using a distribution block to step down to 8 gage right at the
amps.
When grounding, it is important to have a freshly exposed shiny
metal
surface to ground to. rTo do this, you may have to remove any
paint
down to the bare metal, remove also any dirt, oil or contaminants
in
this area. Sandpaper to remove paint and contaminants, followed by
rubbing alcohol. Oil or grease should be removed with a solvent
first,
wiped dry with a clean rag then sanded, then wiped clean with
alcohol
and a clean rag. To maintain a good contact surface, treat the
freshly
exposed metal surface with a silicon that is used for electrical
contacts. The idea is getting a freshly exposed metal surface for
grounding, and keeping it that way by preventing corrosion. (make
sure
the battery terminals are treated the same way, remove them from
the
battery, using a battery terminal cleaner/brush, brush, clean and
spray
them as well) This helps to insure max current to your amps. 1
other
thing, if you're bridging the sub amp, make sure it's not getting
any
less than a 4 ohm load. I'm assuming you already know all of this,
just
thought I'd throw it out there. If you find any of this info to be
useful and are looking for some tips on tuning, post a reply, I'll
be
more than happy to help. Sorry if I stepped on anyones toes, I
know
there are some forums that are dominated by territorial tutors
that
take offense when anyone new tries to answer questions.. Hope it
helps.
Good luck.

--
lust4sound

------------------------------------------------------------------------
lust4sound's Profile: 55269
View this
thread:http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...d.php?t=285937
CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over TWO million posts
online!

We weren't referring to the brand RCA, but RCA type connectors.
Otherwise known at the red and white plugs.
As for running signal and power cables together refer to:
http://www.roclife.org/forums/showthread.php?t=49990

or...any other audio forum on the internet. If you still aren't
convinced I will send you phase diagrams for high current draws.
And the Stinger multi amp kit comes with more than just the 2 RCA
cables, they were the only components salient to my problem. It
actually comes with:
a main fuse, a distribution block, 2 in line fuses for 2-4 amps, a 1.2
Farad Capacitor, 50ft of 16 ga speaker wire, 4 ga power wires,
etc ,etc
http://tinyurl.com/37q683

Cheers

What did a setup like that cost?

--
lust4sound
------------------------------------------------------------------------
lust4sound's Profile: 55269
View this thread:http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...d.php?t=285937
CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over TWO million posts online!

--
Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

hit the ol ebay link to see exactly what is in the kit. SWCKH44. It
isn't on stingers website but is found randomly on the internet. I
paid 212 incl shipping on ebay, and expect to pay 30 max in canadian
border tariffs. It retails for 335 + tax in canada @ futureshop. The
neat thing about the kit is that two of the components have LED
screens on them (distributor block current [ithink] and cap voltage).
Also, it comes with crimpers...

I actually haven't seen the kit yet [out of box], I am on a work term
and shipped everything home. I am patiently waiting for 2.5 more
weeks....

[Robert[_4_]]

On Dec 5, 12:44 pm, " wrote:
On Dec 4, 10:42 pm, Robert wrote:





On Dec 4, 8:44 pm, " wrote:

On Dec 3, 9:23 pm, lust4sound lust4sound.311...@no-

mx.caraudioforum.com wrote:
I'm new here but this is simple enough, thought I'd throw my 2 cents in
and try to help. I hope I don't offend any of the resident Car Audio
Scholars with my meddling. First off, buy the extra cable for the sub
and run it. Since the head unit features pre-outs for all 6 channels,
take advantage of this, you paid extra money for this feature. The neat
thing about this feature is that it gives you control of all the
channels right from the head unit. If your head unit has built in
crossovers that are easy to define and use, you should use them as
well. This combination of features makes it so much more convenient to
dial in a good sound right from the drivers seat. Don't, I repeat DO
NOT skimp on cables. For best results with minimal signal loss and no
interference, make sure all of your RCA cables are of the highest
quality. The 12 dollar Radio Shack jobs are not really up to snuff.
Assuming that your head unit has built in crossovers and a separate
subwoofer level control, set your amps to full range (if they allow you
to do so) use your head unit to dial in the sound. Be sure to run amp
power leads through one side of your car, RCA cables through the other,
this to help insure you won't be getting any electrical interference
from the cars charging system regardless of how expensive your RCA
cables are. Don't skimp on amp power wires either, you want to keep
your amps fed with plenty of current through the thickest wires they
will accept. It is a good idea to run at least a 4 gage all the way
from the battery to the amps and use a distribution block to step it
down to 8 gage (thinner wire) as close to the amps as possible, this to
ensure max current flow (I'm assuming the amps will not accept thicker
than 8 gage) Keep your ground wire as short as possible. Follow the
first example with this, using 4 gage all the way to the amps, then
using a distribution block to step down to 8 gage right at the amps.
When grounding, it is important to have a freshly exposed shiny metal
surface to ground to. rTo do this, you may have to remove any paint
down to the bare metal, remove also any dirt, oil or contaminants in
this area. Sandpaper to remove paint and contaminants, followed by
rubbing alcohol. Oil or grease should be removed with a solvent first,
wiped dry with a clean rag then sanded, then wiped clean with alcohol
and a clean rag. To maintain a good contact surface, treat the freshly
exposed metal surface with a silicon that is used for electrical
contacts. The idea is getting a freshly exposed metal surface for
grounding, and keeping it that way by preventing corrosion. (make sure
the battery terminals are treated the same way, remove them from the
battery, using a battery terminal cleaner/brush, brush, clean and spray
them as well) This helps to insure max current to your amps. 1 other
thing, if you're bridging the sub amp, make sure it's not getting any
less than a 4 ohm load. I'm assuming you already know all of this, just
thought I'd throw it out there. If you find any of this info to be
useful and are looking for some tips on tuning, post a reply, I'll be
more than happy to help. Sorry if I stepped on anyones toes, I know
there are some forums that are dominated by territorial tutors that
take offense when anyone new tries to answer questions.. Hope it helps.
Good luck.

--
lust4sound
------------------------------------------------------------------------
lust4sound's Profile: 55269
View this thread:http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...d.php?t=285937
CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over TWO million posts online!

We weren't referring to the brand RCA, but RCA type connectors.
Otherwise known at the red and white plugs.
As for running signal and power cables together refer to:http://www.roclife.org/forums/showthread.php?t=49990

or...any other audio forum on the internet. If you still aren't
convinced I will send you phase diagrams for high current draws.
And the Stinger multi amp kit comes with more than just the 2 RCA
cables, they were the only components salient to my problem. It
actually comes with:
a main fuse, a distribution block, 2 in line fuses for 2-4 amps, a 1.2
Farad Capacitor, 50ft of 16 ga speaker wire, 4 ga power wires,
etc ,etchttp://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/14225...

Cheers- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It is definetly possible to hook it up as you said without noise, you
can get lucky like that sometimes. Are you runnin a cap in your
system?
When you don't run a cap and just power the amps right from the
battery / alt the signal going to your speakers and the amp are almost
on the same phase, very little in a separation angle, thus you would
not get very much noise [ if you were to run the power / speaker wire
on the same side]
When you DO run a cap, it supplies the oscillating loads drawn by the
amps and releives the strain on your bat / alt. As a result, your
battery will have to put the charge back on the plates in the cap,
again, which takes a moment [relatively]. This increases the phase
angel between the speaker signal and the power 'pulse'. I won't take
you through physics 101 [wire + current = magnet] but I am sure you
can realize the interfering magnetic fields. Whether constructive or
destructive the interferece will cause differences in the 'ideal'
signal, introducing noise.
It should be noted this is only one way noise can be introduced.
Ground loops and alternator whine also contribute. Caps will reduce
alt whine but do nothing for ground loops [oh how it isn't as easy as
assuming all metal is the same point!]

Cheers

[lust4sound[_4_]]

Robert Wrote:
On Dec 5, 12:44 pm, " wrote:
On Dec 4, 10:42 pm, Robert wrote:





On Dec 4, 8:44 pm, " wrote:

On Dec 3, 9:23 pm, lust4sound lust4sound.311...@no-

mx.caraudioforum.com wrote:
I'm new here but this is simple enough, thought I'd throw my 2
cents in
and try to help. I hope I don't offend any of the resident Car
Audio
Scholars with my meddling. First off, buy the extra cable for
the sub
and run it. Since the head unit features pre-outs for all 6
channels,
take advantage of this, you paid extra money for this feature.
The neat
thing about this feature is that it gives you control of all
the
channels right from the head unit. If your head unit has built
in
crossovers that are easy to define and use, you should use them
as
well. This combination of features makes it so much more
convenient to
dial in a good sound right from the drivers seat. Don't, I
repeat DO
NOT skimp on cables. For best results with minimal signal loss
and no
interference, make sure all of your RCA cables are of the
highest
quality. The 12 dollar Radio Shack jobs are not really up to
snuff.
Assuming that your head unit has built in crossovers and a
separate
subwoofer level control, set your amps to full range (if they
allow you
to do so) use your head unit to dial in the sound. Be sure to
run amp
power leads through one side of your car, RCA cables through
the other,
this to help insure you won't be getting any electrical
interference
from the cars charging system regardless of how expensive your
RCA
cables are. Don't skimp on amp power wires either, you want to
keep
your amps fed with plenty of current through the thickest wires
they
will accept. It is a good idea to run at least a 4 gage all the
way
from the battery to the amps and use a distribution block to
step it
down to 8 gage (thinner wire) as close to the amps as possible,
this to
ensure max current flow (I'm assuming the amps will not accept
thicker
than 8 gage) Keep your ground wire as short as possible. Follow
the
first example with this, using 4 gage all the way to the amps,
then
using a distribution block to step down to 8 gage right at the
amps.
When grounding, it is important to have a freshly exposed shiny
metal
surface to ground to. rTo do this, you may have to remove any
paint
down to the bare metal, remove also any dirt, oil or
contaminants in
this area. Sandpaper to remove paint and contaminants, followed
by
rubbing alcohol. Oil or grease should be removed with a solvent
first,
wiped dry with a clean rag then sanded, then wiped clean with
alcohol
and a clean rag. To maintain a good contact surface, treat the
freshly
exposed metal surface with a silicon that is used for
electrical
contacts. The idea is getting a freshly exposed metal surface
for
grounding, and keeping it that way by preventing corrosion.
(make sure
the battery terminals are treated the same way, remove them
from the
battery, using a battery terminal cleaner/brush, brush, clean
and spray
them as well) This helps to insure max current to your amps. 1
other
thing, if you're bridging the sub amp, make sure it's not
getting any
less than a 4 ohm load. I'm assuming you already know all of
this, just
thought I'd throw it out there. If you find any of this info to
be
useful and are looking for some tips on tuning, post a reply,
I'll be
more than happy to help. Sorry if I stepped on anyones toes, I
know
there are some forums that are dominated by territorial tutors
that
take offense when anyone new tries to answer questions.. Hope
it helps.
Good luck.

--
lust4sound

------------------------------------------------------------------------
lust4sound's Profile: 55269
View this
thread:http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...d.php?t=285937
CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over TWO million posts
online!

We weren't referring to the brand RCA, but RCA type connectors.
Otherwise known at the red and white plugs.
As for running signal and power cables together refer
to:http://www.roclife.org/forums/showthread.php?t=49990

or...any other audio forum on the internet. If you still aren't
convinced I will send you phase diagrams for high current draws.
And the Stinger multi amp kit comes with more than just the 2 RCA
cables, they were the only components salient to my problem. It
actually comes with:
a main fuse, a distribution block, 2 in line fuses for 2-4 amps, a
1.2
Farad Capacitor, 50ft of 16 ga speaker wire, 4 ga power wires,
etc
,etchttp://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/14225...

Cheers- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It is definetly possible to hook it up as you said without noise, you
can get lucky like that sometimes. Are you runnin a cap in your
system?
When you don't run a cap and just power the amps right from the
battery / alt the signal going to your speakers and the amp are almost
on the same phase, very little in a separation angle, thus you would
not get very much noise [ if you were to run the power / speaker wire
on the same side]
When you DO run a cap, it supplies the oscillating loads drawn by the
amps and releives the strain on your bat / alt. As a result, your
battery will have to put the charge back on the plates in the cap,
again, which takes a moment [relatively]. This increases the phase
angel between the speaker signal and the power 'pulse'. I won't take
you through physics 101 [wire + current = magnet] but I am sure you
can realize the interfering magnetic fields. Whether constructive or
destructive the interferece will cause differences in the 'ideal'
signal, introducing noise.
It should be noted this is only one way noise can be introduced.
Ground loops and alternator whine also contribute. Caps will reduce
alt whine but do nothing for ground loops [oh how it isn't as easy as
assuming all metal is the same point!]

Cheers
Damn brother, you're good. Can I pick your brain? I've so many
questions.


--
lust4sound
------------------------------------------------------------------------
lust4sound's Profile: 55269
View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...d.php?t=285937
CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over TWO million posts online!


--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

[Christopher \Torroid\ Ott]

"Robert" wrote in message
...
On Dec 5, 12:44 pm, " wrote:
On Dec 4, 10:42 pm, Robert wrote:





On Dec 4, 8:44 pm, " wrote:

On Dec 3, 9:23 pm, lust4sound lust4sound.311...@no-

mx.caraudioforum.com wrote:
I'm new here but this is simple enough, thought I'd throw my 2
cents in
and try to help. I hope I don't offend any of the resident Car
Audio
Scholars with my meddling. First off, buy the extra cable for the
sub
and run it. Since the head unit features pre-outs for all 6
channels,
take advantage of this, you paid extra money for this feature. The
neat
thing about this feature is that it gives you control of all the
channels right from the head unit. If your head unit has built in
crossovers that are easy to define and use, you should use them as
well. This combination of features makes it so much more convenient
to
dial in a good sound right from the drivers seat. Don't, I repeat
DO
NOT skimp on cables. For best results with minimal signal loss and
no
interference, make sure all of your RCA cables are of the highest
quality. The 12 dollar Radio Shack jobs are not really up to snuff.
Assuming that your head unit has built in crossovers and a separate
subwoofer level control, set your amps to full range (if they allow
you
to do so) use your head unit to dial in the sound. Be sure to run
amp
power leads through one side of your car, RCA cables through the
other,
this to help insure you won't be getting any electrical
interference
from the cars charging system regardless of how expensive your RCA
cables are. Don't skimp on amp power wires either, you want to keep
your amps fed with plenty of current through the thickest wires
they
will accept. It is a good idea to run at least a 4 gage all the way
from the battery to the amps and use a distribution block to step
it
down to 8 gage (thinner wire) as close to the amps as possible,
this to
ensure max current flow (I'm assuming the amps will not accept
thicker
than 8 gage) Keep your ground wire as short as possible. Follow the
first example with this, using 4 gage all the way to the amps, then
using a distribution block to step down to 8 gage right at the
amps.
When grounding, it is important to have a freshly exposed shiny
metal
surface to ground to. rTo do this, you may have to remove any paint
down to the bare metal, remove also any dirt, oil or contaminants
in
this area. Sandpaper to remove paint and contaminants, followed by
rubbing alcohol. Oil or grease should be removed with a solvent
first,
wiped dry with a clean rag then sanded, then wiped clean with
alcohol
and a clean rag. To maintain a good contact surface, treat the
freshly
exposed metal surface with a silicon that is used for electrical
contacts. The idea is getting a freshly exposed metal surface for
grounding, and keeping it that way by preventing corrosion. (make
sure
the battery terminals are treated the same way, remove them from
the
battery, using a battery terminal cleaner/brush, brush, clean and
spray
them as well) This helps to insure max current to your amps. 1
other
thing, if you're bridging the sub amp, make sure it's not getting
any
less than a 4 ohm load. I'm assuming you already know all of this,
just
thought I'd throw it out there. If you find any of this info to be
useful and are looking for some tips on tuning, post a reply, I'll
be
more than happy to help. Sorry if I stepped on anyones toes, I know
there are some forums that are dominated by territorial tutors that
take offense when anyone new tries to answer questions.. Hope it
helps.
Good luck.

--
lust4sound
------------------------------------------------------------------------
lust4sound's Profile: 55269
View this
thread:http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...d.php?t=285937
CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over TWO million posts online!

We weren't referring to the brand RCA, but RCA type connectors.
Otherwise known at the red and white plugs.
As for running signal and power cables together refer
to:http://www.roclife.org/forums/showthread.php?t=49990

or...any other audio forum on the internet. If you still aren't
convinced I will send you phase diagrams for high current draws.
And the Stinger multi amp kit comes with more than just the 2 RCA
cables, they were the only components salient to my problem. It
actually comes with:
a main fuse, a distribution block, 2 in line fuses for 2-4 amps, a 1.2
Farad Capacitor, 50ft of 16 ga speaker wire, 4 ga power wires,
etc
,etchttp://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/14225...

Cheers- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It is definetly possible to hook it up as you said without noise, you
can get lucky like that sometimes. Are you runnin a cap in your
system?
When you don't run a cap and just power the amps right from the
battery / alt the signal going to your speakers and the amp are almost
on the same phase, very little in a separation angle, thus you would
not get very much noise [ if you were to run the power / speaker wire
on the same side]
When you DO run a cap, it supplies the oscillating loads drawn by the
amps and releives the strain on your bat / alt. As a result, your
battery will have to put the charge back on the plates in the cap,
again, which takes a moment [relatively]. This increases the phase
angel between the speaker signal and the power 'pulse'. I won't take
you through physics 101 [wire + current = magnet] but I am sure you
can realize the interfering magnetic fields. Whether constructive or
destructive the interferece will cause differences in the 'ideal'
signal, introducing noise.
It should be noted this is only one way noise can be introduced.
Ground loops and alternator whine also contribute. Caps will reduce
alt whine but do nothing for ground loops [oh how it isn't as easy as
assuming all metal is the same point!]

Cheers

Not wanting to be a buzzkill, but this doesn't make any sense. The load on
the power line (and therefore external cap if installed) is not going to
track the input or output signal in anything but a very general sense of
average power. The power lead to the amplifier goes to an internal cap,
which feeds the switching supply that creates the +/- DC voltage rails. The
presence or absence of a stiffening cap is not really relevant to inducing
noise on the input or output signal lines.

As far as phase angles from input to output, it depends on the amplifier
design and how the output stage is wired to the speakers. It's really
irrelevant with shielded cables, but as long as the speakers are wired
correctly with regard to each others phase, the phase angles of the signal
wires can be ignored. Without a delay line or signal processor they will
either be in phase or 180 out of phase.

As a practical matter, the RCA cables should be of a quality, shielded
design. Most are gold plated but this is primarily for aesthetics (and
corrosion resistance). They do not have to be brand names, and you could
make plenty nice ones from Radio Shack parts if you were so inclined.

Regarding alternator/ignition whine, grounding problems are easily the
number one source of noise. This must usually be corrected at the head unit,
as that's where it's most commonly introduced. The stock wiring harness is
usually ok for everything but the ground.

Chris

[[email protected]]

On Dec 5, 4:26 pm, Robert wrote:
On Dec 5, 12:44 pm, " wrote:



On Dec 4, 10:42 pm, Robert wrote:

On Dec 4, 8:44 pm, " wrote:

On Dec 3, 9:23 pm, lust4sound lust4sound.311...@no-

mx.caraudioforum.com wrote:
I'm new here but this is simple enough, thought I'd throw my 2 cents in
and try to help. I hope I don't offend any of the resident Car Audio
Scholars with my meddling. First off, buy the extra cable for the sub
and run it. Since the head unit features pre-outs for all 6 channels,
take advantage of this, you paid extra money for this feature. The neat
thing about this feature is that it gives you control of all the
channels right from the head unit. If your head unit has built in
crossovers that are easy to define and use, you should use them as
well. This combination of features makes it so much more convenient to
dial in a good sound right from the drivers seat. Don't, I repeat DO
NOT skimp on cables. For best results with minimal signal loss and no
interference, make sure all of your RCA cables are of the highest
quality. The 12 dollar Radio Shack jobs are not really up to snuff.
Assuming that your head unit has built in crossovers and a separate
subwoofer level control, set your amps to full range (if they allow you
to do so) use your head unit to dial in the sound. Be sure to run amp
power leads through one side of your car, RCA cables through the other,
this to help insure you won't be getting any electrical interference
from the cars charging system regardless of how expensive your RCA
cables are. Don't skimp on amp power wires either, you want to keep
your amps fed with plenty of current through the thickest wires they
will accept. It is a good idea to run at least a 4 gage all the way
from the battery to the amps and use a distribution block to step it
down to 8 gage (thinner wire) as close to the amps as possible, this to
ensure max current flow (I'm assuming the amps will not accept thicker
than 8 gage) Keep your ground wire as short as possible. Follow the
first example with this, using 4 gage all the way to the amps, then
using a distribution block to step down to 8 gage right at the amps.
When grounding, it is important to have a freshly exposed shiny metal
surface to ground to. rTo do this, you may have to remove any paint
down to the bare metal, remove also any dirt, oil or contaminants in
this area. Sandpaper to remove paint and contaminants, followed by
rubbing alcohol. Oil or grease should be removed with a solvent first,
wiped dry with a clean rag then sanded, then wiped clean with alcohol
and a clean rag. To maintain a good contact surface, treat the freshly
exposed metal surface with a silicon that is used for electrical
contacts. The idea is getting a freshly exposed metal surface for
grounding, and keeping it that way by preventing corrosion. (make sure
the battery terminals are treated the same way, remove them from the
battery, using a battery terminal cleaner/brush, brush, clean and spray
them as well) This helps to insure max current to your amps. 1 other
thing, if you're bridging the sub amp, make sure it's not getting any
less than a 4 ohm load. I'm assuming you already know all of this, just
thought I'd throw it out there. If you find any of this info to be
useful and are looking for some tips on tuning, post a reply, I'll be
more than happy to help. Sorry if I stepped on anyones toes, I know
there are some forums that are dominated by territorial tutors that
take offense when anyone new tries to answer questions.. Hope it helps.
Good luck.

--
lust4sound
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We weren't referring to the brand RCA, but RCA type connectors.
Otherwise known at the red and white plugs.
As for running signal and power cables together refer to:http://www.roclife.org/forums/showthread.php?t=49990

or...any other audio forum on the internet. If you still aren't
convinced I will send you phase diagrams for high current draws.
And the Stinger multi amp kit comes with more than just the 2 RCA
cables, they were the only components salient to my problem. It
actually comes with:
a main fuse, a distribution block, 2 in line fuses for 2-4 amps, a 1.2
Farad Capacitor, 50ft of 16 ga speaker wire, 4 ga power wires,
etc ,etchttp://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/14225...

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It is definetly possible to hook it up as you said without noise, you
can get lucky like that sometimes. Are you runnin a cap in your
system?
When you don't run a cap and just power the amps right from the
battery / alt the signal going to your speakers and the amp are almost
on the same phase, very little in a separation angle, thus you would
not get very much noise [ if you were to run the power / speaker wire
on the same side]
When you DO run a cap, it supplies the oscillating loads drawn by the
amps and releives the strain on your bat / alt. As a result, your
battery will have to put the charge back on the plates in the cap,
again, which takes a moment [relatively]. This increases the phase
angel between the speaker signal and the power 'pulse'. I won't take
you through physics 101 [wire + current = magnet] but I am sure you
can realize the interfering magnetic fields. Whether constructive or
destructive the interferece will cause differences in the 'ideal'
signal, introducing noise.
It should be noted this is only one way noise can be introduced.
Ground loops and alternator whine also contribute. Caps will reduce
alt whine but do nothing for ground loops [oh how it isn't as easy as
assuming all metal is the same point!]

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no i have never run a cap in any of my systems. Usually my alternator
has been big enough to support the loads that are being drawn
(although i have never really been a huge fan of super big sound
systems, just somethin that hits nice and tight) But, not saying that
a cap is useless, i have found them to kind of be overmarketed, if you
have a problem with dimming lights just upgrade your alternator. Its
more expensive sure, but then you dont have to worry bout it anymore.