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#1
Posted to rec.audio.car
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just venting
I had a terrible time installing a stereo this weekend in my 89 camry.
I had all sorts of problems. First, it was ridiculously difficult getting the 4 gauge wire through the firewall. My old 86 mustang had all sorts of extra grommeted holes in the firewall. But this one didn't have a single unused hole. Then I couldn't seem to get the wire run down the side without making it interfere with the seatbelt. I finally straightened that out. Then I discovered that one of my two old amps was toast. There was a lot of corrosion on the RCAs, and there was a lot of scratchy static when moving the pots on the crossover. They must have been corroded on the inside also. It lasted about 10 minutes, then gave me a diagnostic light. My other amp (same brand) looks almost new and they both were stored in the same location. Go figure. So I had to use the deck to drive the corner speakers. (yuk) I guess I'm shopping for a 4 channel amp now. Luckily the other amp, a 2x100, hooked up to the 2 rockford 10s nicely. They hit hard. I had to totally disassemble the dashboard to get at the speaker locations in the front. They were 3.5" speakers. They had this cool enclosure, but finding 3.5" speakers was a pain. And they're only 25 watts rms. That may not be too bad with some extra tweeters and midbass drivers and a proper crossover. I found some cool 6.5" kicker coax speakers that sounded great. To bad they were really 6" speakers. The dork at circuit city tried to tell me that when the coax speakers say 6 1/2", they really mean a 6" woofer and a 1/2" tweeter, so they're all 6". I laughed, then left, then bought some 6.5" coax bostons at tweeter on clearance. They sound better than the kickers did, but have a lower power rating. Still, if I filter out the lows below 120hz, I bet I can over-drive them. When I hooked up the back speakers, they would work until I bolted them down at which point the amp in the head unit would shut down. Turns out they were shorting to the sheet metal. :-P One problem after another. The old speakers were round with a square basket! And the speaker covers fit this square basket, not the new round bostons. This car has been one ridiculous design after another. I was able to get them to stick back on but a real enclosure would go a long way toward improving things, air can leak around them a little now. Now it turns out that the bezel int he dash around the head unit is a little too tight. I can't get the face to flip down without working at it. I guess I'll have to grind off the bezel a little. Did I mention that none of the wire colors in a toyota make any sense? Blue with a yellow stripe is +12 volts, grey was the switched wire. At least ground was blackish. So now I'm shopping for: a 60gig ipod An eq I can put in the dash a 4 channel amp a pair of tweeters an outboard crossover midbass drivers with enclosures and another amp for the midbass drivers better work overtime. :-) brian |
#2
Posted to rec.audio.car
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just venting
Sounds like you're learning a bunch!! I've been there before. Good luck!
Tony -- 2001 Nissan Maxima SE Anniversary Edition Clarion DRZ9255 Head Unit, Phoenix Gold ZX475ti, ZX450 and Xenon X1200.1 Amplifiers, Dynaudio System 360 Tri-Amped In Front and Focal 130HCs For Rear Fill, Image Dynamics IDMAX10 D4 v.3 Sub 2001 Chevy S10 ZR2 Pioneer DEH-P9600MP Head Unit, Phoenix Gold Ti500.4 Amp, Focal 165HC Speakers & Image Dynamics ID8 D4 v.3 Sub 2006 Mustang GT Coupe Alpine IVA-D310 DVD Head Unit, Alpine MRA-550 Digital 5.1 Amp, Boston Acoustics Z-Series Speakers, Alpine SBS-05DC Center Channel Speaker, Amplified MTX Thunderform Sub |
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