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Chevy Colorado - Notes for aftermarket head unit &subwoofer install
2004 Chevy Colorado / GMC Canyon (without the Bose Premium Sound
System) Receiver install notes - I used my Clarion DB-625mp for this install. Note: The MTX Thunderform from my 1995 Ford Ranger (standard cab) fits great behind the back passenger seat. Once I install the amp & speakers (will detail that later), I will post notes on that install & tell you how the bass sounds. Stuff you will need -------------------- soldering iron & rosin core solder wire stripping tool electrical tape utility knife Metra VT-GMRC-01 GM Adapter 1 GM Antenna adapter 1 Faceplate Kit (1995 and up Buick/Olds Aurora Kit type) Socket Set Notes on the install --------------------- OK, this is bull****. I bought this new truck, and found out 2 ****ed up things. One, there is only a 5v input to the factory radio. Two, the ding-ding that alerts you to leaving your key in the ignition runs thru the factory stereo. Metra makes a little kit (it consists of a black box and wiring harness) that will fix both items. It cost me $85 for this kit locally (which means I didn't have to wait for shipping). Also, the antenna isn't standard, so you need an antenna adapter ($5). Overall, this is the most expensive generic head unit install I have heard of.... 1)you gotta solder together the wiring harness from Metra - the wiring harness for your aftermarket head unit. Use some electrical tape to 'bundle' your wiring harness together to make it easier to work with... 2)Put your receiver into the faceplate – and yes, you will have to use a utility knife to cut the faceplace up so that your DIN sized receiver fits. You can use packing tape to tape a 2"-3" paperback book underneath the receiver. This will keep the receiver from practically bouncing around in your dash. 3)Pull the {your color here} trim piece from the middle of your truck dashboard. This is a single plastic panel that runs around the Ventilation Controls and Factory Radio. It goes wayyy under the dash, all the way down to the dual dc power outlets. It also runs all the way up to the center dash air vent. This piece isn't screwed in at all. Use a putty knife to start pulling from the bottom of the plastic panel, and use your fingers and work your way up the dash to the AC vents. There are a total of 5 metal tabs that secure the plastic panel to the dash. 4)Now, unplug the top two plugs from this plastic panel (they are important, so be careful with those plugs) and set the panel aside. 5)Use your socket set to unscrew the 3 bolts that secure the factory radio to the dash. Pull out the old unit, unplugging the dash wiring harness & antenna from the radio. Toss your factory radio into a box & put away somewhere. 6)Plug in the Metra wiring harness into the GM wiring harness. Next, plug in your receiver wiring harness into the receiver. Then plug in the antenna adapter to your receiver, and the antenna wire from the dash into your adapter. Finally, plug in the METRA side of the wiring harness into the little black Metra converter box, and throw that into the right side of the hole in the center dash. 7)Screw the aftermarket receiver/faceplate combo into the dashboard 8)Plug your 2 plugs back into the center plastic panel 9)push the center panel onto the center dash, making sure all 5 tabs are secure in the dash, and go drink an ice cold one for the hard 10 minutes you just spent in the garage |
#2
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Chevy Colorado - Notes for aftermarket head unit &subwoofer install
I assume your Colorado and my Silverado have the same issue...we bot
needed a special bypass type of harness so that the factory stere could be deleted? I am under the impression that GM has all abs, airbag, etc info goin thru the head unit -- DiscountTireC ----------------------------------------------------------------------- DiscountTireCo's Profile: http://www.caraudioforum.com/member.php?userid=2790 View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...ad.php?t=18356 |
#3
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Chevy Colorado - Notes for aftermarket head unit &subwoofer install
Yep. The bypass from Metra is a little black box with a speaker &
voltage converter in it. That way audio signals from the computer will make the speaker in the black box "ding". Also, the factory stereo is 5v, not the regular 12v that aftermarket headunits require, so the box does a little voltage conversion. I think only noise goes thru the factory stereo, not computer info like ABS or airbag deployment. My ABS still works after all of this, and the passenger airbag has a sensor & wiring harness that goes to a computer somewhere else in the dash, I think. GM Engineers need to get their heads out of their ass & stick to standards... if you want to create "ding ding" noises when the key is in the ignition or the door opens, then run a 1" cone speaker in the dash somewhere. And all stereos from all auto manufacturers should be 12V. Period. No exceptions. My friend did this in his 03 Silverado, only he just twisted the wires together & used electrical tape. If you omit the soldering step (I always solder connections, never just twist them together), then your wires may jiggle loose, like they did in his truck. He ended up having to rip the stereo back out & solder all his connections anyways. DiscountTireCo wrote in message ws.com... I assume your Colorado and my Silverado have the same issue...we both needed a special bypass type of harness so that the factory stereo could be deleted? I am under the impression that GM has all abs, airbag, etc info going thru the head unit. |
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