[hank alrich]

William Sommerwerck wrote:

I recently met some Neutrik knock-offs that are identical in every way,
except quality.

Attempting to heat the work melted the body slug of the female XLR's.
Had to put the females into males as heat sinks just to be able to heat
the work slighlty and then heat the solder and the wire.

Ruined one slug and replaced it with one from a Neutrik clipped
from the church's old snake. Perfect fit.

Which only goes to prove... You can't teach a cheap plug Neutriks.

You're fired! g

--
shut up and play your guitar * http://hankalrich.com/
http://armadillomusicproductions.com/who'slistening.html
http://www.sonicbids.com/HankandShai...withDougHarman

[Harry Lavo]

"Scott Dorsey" wrote in message
...
William Sommerwerck wrote:
In my experience, cold joints come from heating the solder
to the liquid state, but not the joint being soldered. If you heat
the work until it melts the solder, you won't have the problem.

Hardly anyone solders that way. I usually touch the solder to the iron,
and
let it run all over the place. I'm afraid of overheating whatever
component
is being soldered.

In the Army they taught us to heat the work, never the solder. You need
to put enough solder on to wet the tip and get good contact with the work,
but the whole point is to heat the work and then the solder flows cleanly
and evenly onto it.

You overheat components by doing the opposite, because it takes longer to
get a good joint. The whole key is to dump a huge amount of heat into
the work, flow the solder, and then get out as quickly as possible.
Overheating is caused by too little heat or too little heat transfer, not
by too much.

My dad was an EE, and a do-it-yourselfer and repaire technician in his spare
time. My first lesson in kit-building was just this (at his knee,
so-to-speak).

[Bill Graham]

Harry Lavo wrote:
"Scott Dorsey" wrote in message
...
William Sommerwerck wrote:
In my experience, cold joints come from heating the solder
to the liquid state, but not the joint being soldered. If you heat
the work until it melts the solder, you won't have the problem.

Hardly anyone solders that way. I usually touch the solder to the
iron, and
let it run all over the place. I'm afraid of overheating whatever
component
is being soldered.

In the Army they taught us to heat the work, never the solder. You
need to put enough solder on to wet the tip and get good contact
with the work, but the whole point is to heat the work and then the
solder flows cleanly and evenly onto it.

You overheat components by doing the opposite, because it takes
longer to get a good joint. The whole key is to dump a huge amount
of heat into the work, flow the solder, and then get out as quickly
as possible. Overheating is caused by too little heat or too little
heat transfer, not by too much.

My dad was an EE, and a do-it-yourselfer and repaire technician in
his spare time. My first lesson in kit-building was just this (at
his knee, so-to-speak).

I learned by building Heath Kits back in the 50's....I wish I had a few of
them now, as keepsakes.....

[Harry Lavo]

"Bill Graham" wrote in message
...
Harry Lavo wrote:
"Scott Dorsey" wrote in message
...
William Sommerwerck wrote:
In my experience, cold joints come from heating the solder
to the liquid state, but not the joint being soldered. If you heat
the work until it melts the solder, you won't have the problem.

Hardly anyone solders that way. I usually touch the solder to the
iron, and
let it run all over the place. I'm afraid of overheating whatever
component
is being soldered.

In the Army they taught us to heat the work, never the solder. You
need to put enough solder on to wet the tip and get good contact
with the work, but the whole point is to heat the work and then the
solder flows cleanly and evenly onto it.

You overheat components by doing the opposite, because it takes
longer to get a good joint. The whole key is to dump a huge amount
of heat into the work, flow the solder, and then get out as quickly
as possible. Overheating is caused by too little heat or too little
heat transfer, not by too much.

My dad was an EE, and a do-it-yourselfer and repaire technician in
his spare time. My first lesson in kit-building was just this (at
his knee, so-to-speak).

I learned by building Heath Kits back in the 50's....I wish I had a few of
them now, as keepsakes.....

Still have the manual for the AJ-15 tuner, the last Heathkit I ever built.
A really woolly-sounding piece of gear...it didn't last long in my system.

Those old Eico's, though....... (sigh)

[Doug McDonald[_6_]]

On 3/13/2011 8:51 PM, Harry Lavo wrote:


In the Army they taught us to heat the work, never the solder. You need
to put enough solder on to wet the tip and get good contact with the work,
but the whole point is to heat the work and then the solder flows cleanly
and evenly onto it.

You overheat components by doing the opposite, because it takes longer to
get a good joint. The whole key is to dump a huge amount of heat into
the work, flow the solder, and then get out as quickly as possible.
Overheating is caused by too little heat or too little heat transfer, not
by too much.

My dad was an EE, and a do-it-yourselfer and repaire technician in his spare
time. My first lesson in kit-building was just this (at his knee,
so-to-speak).



I have lots of experience in this. Really. And I find this best:

Make sure the iron is up to temperature.

Add a tiny bit of solder to the iron.

Touch the iron to the connection, trying to get it to touch both the
terminal and the wire(s) connected to it.

Don't wait ... instantly touch the solder to the junction between
the iron and the work. This melts enough solder so that the heat
conduction between the iron and work gets much bigger, this heating the
work fast.

Touch the solder to a part of the work away from the iron to see
if it melts. If so, finish the job. If not, wait a second and try again.

As said, of course, the goal is to heat everything up rapidly.

Doug McDonald

[John Williamson]

Doug McDonald wrote:
On 3/13/2011 8:51 PM, Harry Lavo wrote:


In the Army they taught us to heat the work, never the solder. You need
to put enough solder on to wet the tip and get good contact with the
work,
but the whole point is to heat the work and then the solder flows
cleanly
and evenly onto it.

You overheat components by doing the opposite, because it takes
longer to
get a good joint. The whole key is to dump a huge amount of heat into
the work, flow the solder, and then get out as quickly as possible.
Overheating is caused by too little heat or too little heat transfer,
not
by too much.

My dad was an EE, and a do-it-yourselfer and repaire technician in his
spare
time. My first lesson in kit-building was just this (at his knee,
so-to-speak).



I have lots of experience in this. Really. And I find this best:

Make sure the iron is up to temperature.

Add a tiny bit of solder to the iron.

Touch the iron to the connection, trying to get it to touch both the
terminal and the wire(s) connected to it.

Don't wait ... instantly touch the solder to the junction between
the iron and the work. This melts enough solder so that the heat
conduction between the iron and work gets much bigger, this heating the
work fast.

Touch the solder to a part of the work away from the iron to see
if it melts. If so, finish the job. If not, wait a second and try again.

As said, of course, the goal is to heat everything up rapidly.

You've been watching me, haven't you?

--
Tciao for Now!

John.

[Bill Graham]

Harry Lavo wrote:
"Bill Graham" wrote in message
...
Harry Lavo wrote:
"Scott Dorsey" wrote in message
...
William Sommerwerck wrote:
In my experience, cold joints come from heating the solder
to the liquid state, but not the joint being soldered. If you
heat the work until it melts the solder, you won't have the
problem.

Hardly anyone solders that way. I usually touch the solder to the
iron, and
let it run all over the place. I'm afraid of overheating whatever
component
is being soldered.

In the Army they taught us to heat the work, never the solder. You
need to put enough solder on to wet the tip and get good contact
with the work, but the whole point is to heat the work and then the
solder flows cleanly and evenly onto it.

You overheat components by doing the opposite, because it takes
longer to get a good joint. The whole key is to dump a huge amount
of heat into the work, flow the solder, and then get out as quickly
as possible. Overheating is caused by too little heat or too little
heat transfer, not by too much.

My dad was an EE, and a do-it-yourselfer and repaire technician in
his spare time. My first lesson in kit-building was just this (at
his knee, so-to-speak).

I learned by building Heath Kits back in the 50's....I wish I had a
few of them now, as keepsakes.....

Still have the manual for the AJ-15 tuner, the last Heathkit I ever
built. A really woolly-sounding piece of gear...it didn't last long
in my system.
Those old Eico's, though....... (sigh)

My crowning achievement was the Williamson Amplifier. A really impressive
piece of gear back in those days....