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#1
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Caring For Your LPs
I would like some practical advice on how to clean and care for my LPs. A
colleague told me he just uses soap and water. I don't think that this is a good idea especially because the water in Florida is very hard. I owned a VPI 16 that bit the dust a few years ago. Looking at some of the prices for auto cleaning machines and the various specialized fluids seem outlandish. Yet some of my records are (to me) irreplaceable. How do you care for your vinyl? Thanks in advance. Cordially, west |
#2
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Caring For Your LPs
On May 6, 7:11 pm, "west" wrote:
I would like some practical advice on how to clean and care for my LPs. A colleague told me he just uses soap and water. I don't think that this is a good idea especially because the water in Florida is very hard. I owned a VPI 16 that bit the dust a few years ago. Looking at some of the prices for auto cleaning machines and the various specialized fluids seem outlandish. Yet some of my records are (to me) irreplaceable. How do you care for your vinyl? Thanks in advance. Cordially, west Oh, for krissakes.... There is so damned much good information out there on the care and feeding of vinyl that for you to ask such a question without doing the primary research yourself is irresponsible, lazy and just plain stupid. For one claiming to have daughters 'who went on to West Point' (dubious at best.... especially the daughter part... making you a parent... YIKES!), that would require that you are old enough to be of the vinyl generation at least towards its end. And, at the end of the vinyl generation, its care and feeding was pretty sophisticated. Meaning you are being disingenuous at best. So, give it a rest and do some real work for once. Start with the obvious. Start with the most basic implications of the species. a) keep the records clean. Scrupulously clean. b) do not play them more than once in 24 hours. Can you guess why? I doubt it. c) keep them free of static to the extent possible. d) use the proper stylus. e) make damned sure that the stylus is in good condition. f) track at the proper force. g) use the best damned tone-arm you can afford, preferably linear. After that, there isn't a whole helluvalot more to do about it. And, for the record, "Young professional" and "daughters went on to West Point" are mutually exclusive. So, which is it? Peter Wieck Wyncote, PA |
#3
Posted to rec.audio.tubes
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Caring For Your LPs
west wrote:
I would like some practical advice on how to clean and care for my LPs. A colleague told me he just uses soap and water. I don't think that this is a good idea especially because the water in Florida is very hard. I owned a VPI 16 that bit the dust a few years ago. Looking at some of the prices for auto cleaning machines and the various specialized fluids seem outlandish. Yet some of my records are (to me) irreplaceable. How do you care for your vinyl? Thanks in advance. Cordially, west Hi West I've had really good luck with the middle of the road Nitty Gritty machines, and their fluids. I tried all the hand methods recommened on line, none worked as well and consistently as the 1.5FI I bought 2 years ago. I tried the home made cleaning fluid ideas, but none worked as good as the stuff sold by Nitty Gritty. They go one sale all the time at Music Direct and other on line retailers. I feel for the price they are well worth it. I've revived some really noisy LP's after 2 or 3 cleanings Mike Mueller |
#4
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Caring For Your LPs
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#5
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Caring For Your LPs
"Jon Yaeger" wrote in message ... in article g9u%h.1520$wy2.1358@trnddc03, west at wrote on 5/6/07 8:11 PM: I would like some practical advice on how to clean and care for my LPs. A colleague told me he just uses soap and water. I don't think that this is a good idea especially because the water in Florida is very hard. I owned a VPI 16 that bit the dust a few years ago. Looking at some of the prices for auto cleaning machines and the various specialized fluids seem outlandish. Yet some of my records are (to me) irreplaceable. How do you care for your vinyl? Thanks in advance. Cordially, west I've had decent luck with the Discwasher product line and the ZeroStat anti-static gun. Some anti-static devices use radioactive isotopes embedded in ceramic. Say, I bet you need someone to come down there and show you how to wipe your ass, don't you?? Jon You wipe? I thought you just patted. No wonder ... I guess I do need someone. Are you volunteering? west |
#6
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Caring For Your LPs
mueller wrote: west wrote: I would like some practical advice on how to clean and care for my LPs. A colleague told me he just uses soap and water. I don't think that this is a good idea especially because the water in Florida is very hard. I owned a VPI 16 that bit the dust a few years ago. Looking at some of the prices for auto cleaning machines and the various specialized fluids seem outlandish. Yet some of my records are (to me) irreplaceable. How do you care for your vinyl? Thanks in advance. Cordially, west Hi West I've had really good luck with the middle of the road Nitty Gritty machines, and their fluids. I tried all the hand methods recommened on line, none worked as well and consistently as the 1.5FI I bought 2 years ago. I tried the home made cleaning fluid ideas, but none worked as good as the stuff sold by Nitty Gritty. They go one sale all the time at Music Direct and other on line retailers. I feel for the price they are well worth it. I've revived some really noisy LP's after 2 or 3 cleanings Mike Mueller There is only one way to happily embrace the medium of vinyl, and it means keeping the records clean. A friend has an el cheapo cleaner where the record is clamped in and you wash the top side with a special brush and with nitty-gritty or distilled water with 10% isopropyl alchohol, and then you turn the record upside down and a vacuum cleaner working through another brush sucks out the damp muck in the grooves left after cleaning it. Records that i wanted to bin because of noise became as defect-free as the day they were made, and it convinced me that most noise isn't from scratches or handling, but from grunge, muck, spilt wine and chilli con carne and dope ash from 1975 parties become stuck in the grooves. Then follows the growth of mildews and other gradual dust building up, and it must all be gently softened, released, and scraped and sucked right out without adding noise or removing sound track. Once cleaned, vinyl is a true miracle, and a time capsule to the past. My friends cleaner cost $200, and you turn the record by hand, and you have to buy a vacuum cleaner to attach; he got a cheap chinese one, noisy as hell of course, being chinese, but OK for the job. To ensure grunge is loosened up, a donut shaped piece of toweling can be cut to lay on a record so when damp the water won't dry, but you don't wet the label. This can be left all night if need be, the water won't hurt it but I wouldn't leave any active cleaner fluid on the record for too long. Patrick Turner. |
#7
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Caring For Your LPs
"Peter Wieck" wrote in message oups.com... On May 6, 7:11 pm, "west" wrote: I would like some practical advice on how to clean and care for my LPs. A colleague told me he just uses soap and water. I don't think that this is a good idea especially because the water in Florida is very hard. I owned a VPI 16 that bit the dust a few years ago. Looking at some of the prices for auto cleaning machines and the various specialized fluids seem outlandish. Yet some of my records are (to me) irreplaceable. How do you care for your vinyl? Thanks in advance. Cordially, west Oh, for krissakes.... There is so damned much good information out there on the care and feeding of vinyl that for you to ask such a question without doing the primary research yourself is irresponsible, lazy and just plain stupid. For one claiming to have daughters 'who went on to West Point' (dubious at best.... especially the daughter part... making you a parent... YIKES!), that would require that you are old enough to be of the vinyl generation at least towards its end. And, at the end of the vinyl generation, its care and feeding was pretty sophisticated. Meaning you are being disingenuous at best. So, give it a rest and do some real work for once. Start with the obvious. Start with the most basic implications of the species. a) keep the records clean. Scrupulously clean. b) do not play them more than once in 24 hours. Can you guess why? I doubt it. c) keep them free of static to the extent possible. d) use the proper stylus. e) make damned sure that the stylus is in good condition. f) track at the proper force. g) use the best damned tone-arm you can afford, preferably linear. After that, there isn't a whole helluvalot more to do about it. And, for the record, "Young professional" and "daughters went on to West Point" are mutually exclusive. So, which is it? Peter Wieck Wyncote, PA Hi West, Before he has an apoplectic siezure, please ask Peter to step down from the soapbox, give that loudhailer to the friendly man in the white coat, sit down in this comfy chair and take a valium. Relax:-) There is a very good BBC booklet on the subject of vinyl care, and the way to get best results in transcription when "playing wet" I have done a very great number of vinyl and shellac transcriptions at a professional level. There are several disc cleaning machines on the market. I use the Moth, but understand that VPI is also good. Following that, if you want to make a transcription to CD you can mix a wet solution which will remove about 90% of any remaining snap crackle and pop coming out of the cereal port. It makes very good sense to transcribe your irreplaceable vinyl and shellac to CD (with care you can make a perfect clone) and store the originals away. In my experience it is much better to declick manually in a programme like Audition (formerly Cool Edit Pro) than use the automated functions. Regards to all Iain |
#8
Posted to rec.audio.tubes
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Caring For Your LPs
west wrote
I would like some practical advice on how to clean and care for my LPs. A colleague told me he just uses soap and water. I don't think that this is a good idea especially because the water in Florida is very hard. I owned a VPI 16 that bit the dust a few years ago. Looking at some of the prices for auto cleaning machines and the various specialized fluids seem outlandish. Yet some of my records are (to me) irreplaceable. How do you care for your vinyl? Thanks in advance. Stubborn stains can be removed with fine carborundum paste. Rinse thoroughly in methylene chloride. Dry in the microwave. Lubricate with concentrated lime juice. cordially, Ian |
#9
Posted to rec.audio.tubes
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Caring For Your LPs
Peter Wieck wrote:
On May 6, 7:11 pm, "west" wrote: I would like some practical advice on how to clean and care for my LPs. A colleague told me he just uses soap and water. I don't think that this is a good idea especially because the water in Florida is very hard. I owned a VPI 16 that bit the dust a few years ago. Looking at some of the prices for auto cleaning machines and the various specialized fluids seem outlandish. Yet some of my records are (to me) irreplaceable. How do you care for your vinyl? Thanks in advance. Cordially, west Oh, for krissakes.... There is so damned much good information out there on the care and feeding of vinyl that for you to ask such a question without doing the primary research yourself is irresponsible, lazy and just plain stupid. For one claiming to have daughters 'who went on to West Point' (dubious at best.... especially the daughter part... making you a parent... YIKES!), that would require that you are old enough to be of the vinyl generation at least towards its end. And, at the end of the vinyl generation, its care and feeding was pretty sophisticated. Meaning you are being disingenuous at best. So, give it a rest and do some real work for once. Start with the obvious. Start with the most basic implications of the species. a) keep the records clean. Scrupulously clean. b) do not play them more than once in 24 hours. Can you guess why? I doubt it. c) keep them free of static to the extent possible. d) use the proper stylus. e) make damned sure that the stylus is in good condition. f) track at the proper force. g) use the best damned tone-arm you can afford, preferably linear. After that, there isn't a whole helluvalot more to do about it. And, for the record, "Young professional" and "daughters went on to West Point" are mutually exclusive. So, which is it? Peter Wieck Wyncote, PA Hi Peter I do not know why I can not play an LP more than once in a 24 hour period. Could you elaborate please? Thank you Mike Mueller |
#10
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Caring For Your LPs
On May 7, 10:22 pm, mueller wrote:
I do not know why I can not play an LP more than once in a 24 hour period. Could you elaborate please? The reason is pretty simple if thought about. The stylus tracks at a 'few grams', which translates to several pounds-per-square-inch on the vinyl grooves. Part of this translates into vibrations that make the music, part of this translates into heat which then distorts and stresses the vinyl. It takes 5-8 hours for the heat and the stress to fully dissipate depending on the general environment and composition of the vinyl... and this is a very approximate number. So, the general rule-of-thumb to protect the vinyl is 24 hours between plays. At the extreme (repeated close-together playings), the highs are more- or-less scraped/smoothed over. Do the math. A typical eliptical stylus is ~2mil x 1mil. Bearing on the record is ~1/2 the surface area of the stylus. Treating it as a sphere of diameter 2mil for round figures, the bearing surface is 0.5 x 4pirsquared. So, 4 x 3.1415 x 0.5 = 6.3 square mils (0.0063). At 2grams that = 0.0045 pounds. Comes to ~2.5 psi. It is actually more, but as a QaD, this is enough. Now, if a 12" lp is turning at 33.33 rpm, with an average groove length/revolution of 3.1415 x 7.5 = ~23.5 ips or ~2 fps, or ~1.4 miles per hour, you start to get an idea of the issues at hand. (With a 45, the issues remain about the same as the diameters are much smaller. With a 78, the issues are much more difficult as the speeds are higher and the tracking forces much greater. Of course the stylus area is much larger, but the idea is the same.) Drag a 2.5 pound flat weight of one-inch surface area across any piece of vinyl at 1.4mph and it *will* create heat and *possibly* do damage unless very carefully controlled. The 24 hour rule reduces the opportunity to cause such damage. But you would have figured that out if you had thought about it. ;-) Peter Wieck Wyncote, PA |
#11
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Caring For Your LPs
Peter Wieck wrote:
On May 7, 10:22 pm, mueller wrote: I do not know why I can not play an LP more than once in a 24 hour period. Could you elaborate please? The reason is pretty simple if thought about. The stylus tracks at a 'few grams', which translates to several pounds-per-square-inch on the vinyl grooves. Part of this translates into vibrations that make the music, part of this translates into heat which then distorts and stresses the vinyl. It takes 5-8 hours for the heat and the stress to fully dissipate depending on the general environment and composition of the vinyl... and this is a very approximate number. So, the general rule-of-thumb to protect the vinyl is 24 hours between plays. At the extreme (repeated close-together playings), the highs are more- or-less scraped/smoothed over. Do the math. A typical eliptical stylus is ~2mil x 1mil. Bearing on the record is ~1/2 the surface area of the stylus. Treating it as a sphere of diameter 2mil for round figures, the bearing surface is 0.5 x 4pirsquared. So, 4 x 3.1415 x 0.5 = 6.3 square mils (0.0063). At 2grams that = 0.0045 pounds. Comes to ~2.5 psi. It is actually more, but as a QaD, this is enough. Now, if a 12" lp is turning at 33.33 rpm, with an average groove length/revolution of 3.1415 x 7.5 = ~23.5 ips or ~2 fps, or ~1.4 miles per hour, you start to get an idea of the issues at hand. (With a 45, the issues remain about the same as the diameters are much smaller. With a 78, the issues are much more difficult as the speeds are higher and the tracking forces much greater. Of course the stylus area is much larger, but the idea is the same.) Drag a 2.5 pound flat weight of one-inch surface area across any piece of vinyl at 1.4mph and it *will* create heat and *possibly* do damage unless very carefully controlled. The 24 hour rule reduces the opportunity to cause such damage. But you would have figured that out if you had thought about it. ;-) Peter Wieck Wyncote, PA Peter I wanted to hear it from you. Common sense told me it was a heat issue. And the vinyl needed too cool down Thanks Mike Mueller |
#12
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Caring For Your LPs
On 8 May 2007 04:02:13 -0700, Peter Wieck wrote:
Excellent static analysis snipped cause you just read it Even scarier, the stylus undergoes accelerations reaching into the thousands of G's, causing dynamic pressures into the tons per square inch range. Contact temperatures run 700 to 900 F. Yikes! Styli actually trace a geometry that extends "down" into the vinyl surface. This element greatly complicates the "laser reading" turntables, almost as much as the noise issues. My only real addition to your comments is to add: cleanliness, cleanliness, cleanliness. And let them rest about a decade before recording 'em. Only slightly kidding. Much thanks, as always, Chris Hornbeck |
#13
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Caring For Your LPs
Peter Wieck wrote
I do not know why I can not play an LP more than once in a 24 hour period. Could you elaborate please? The reason is pretty simple if thought about. The stylus tracks at a 'few grams', which translates to several pounds-per-square-inch on the vinyl grooves. Part of this translates into vibrations that make the music, part of this translates into heat which then distorts and stresses the vinyl. It takes 5-8 hours for the heat and the stress to fully dissipate depending on the general environment and composition of the vinyl... and this is a very approximate number. So, the general rule-of-thumb to protect the vinyl is 24 hours between plays. At the extreme (repeated close-together playings), the highs are more- or-less scraped/smoothed over. Do the math. A typical eliptical stylus is ~2mil x 1mil. Bearing on the record is ~1/2 the surface area of the stylus. Treating it as a sphere of diameter 2mil for round figures, the bearing surface is 0.5 x 4pirsquared. So, 4 x 3.1415 x 0.5 = 6.3 square mils (0.0063). At 2grams that = 0.0045 pounds. Comes to ~2.5 psi. It is actually more, but as a QaD, this is enough. Now, if a 12" lp is turning at 33.33 rpm, with an average groove length/revolution of 3.1415 x 7.5 = ~23.5 ips or ~2 fps, or ~1.4 miles per hour, you start to get an idea of the issues at hand. (With a 45, the issues remain about the same as the diameters are much smaller. With a 78, the issues are much more difficult as the speeds are higher and the tracking forces much greater. Of course the stylus area is much larger, but the idea is the same.) Drag a 2.5 pound flat weight of one-inch surface area across any piece of vinyl at 1.4mph and it *will* create heat and *possibly* do damage unless very carefully controlled. The 24 hour rule reduces the opportunity to cause such damage. But you would have figured that out if you had thought about it. ;-) I don't quite follow this heat and stress dissipation thing. Surely the vinyl can't take so long to cool down. Is stress the kind of thing that dissipates? Perhaps if you keep the vinyl warm after playing, the plastic deformation will right itself more quickly? Maybe an infra-red laser following the stylus would allow more rapid replay? Problem to avoid preheating the next groove, however. I don't see how tracking forces are greater for larger-diameter grooves, either. The linear velocity is greater, so I would expect the deformation due to the static weight of the arm and cartridge to be less. Perhaps this is counteracted by an increase in stylus temperature due to the greater linear velocity though... The forces due to the signal should depend only on the signal. Just musing. My only record player was a Dansette. I always reckoned that the problems of vinyl were not worth the expense of solving. cheers, Ian |
#14
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Caring For Your LPs
Ian: Please note the interpolations.
I don't quite follow this heat and stress dissipation thing. Surely the vinyl can't take so long to cool down. Is stress the kind of thing that dissipates? It does dissipate, and in less than 24 hours, obviously. But the "rule of thumb" is for a reason. More-or-less as follows: When the vinyl is heated, as with many plastics, it will expand in one direction and shrink in another. It also work-hardens at the thickest sections and anneals at the thinnest. These inposed properties will dissipate when the entire system reaches equilibrium, but that is more than just a few hours. As Chris noted the G-forces are considerable and the contact temperatures are as well. Whack a system that is alternately soft-and-brittle too quickly again and it will fail. Depending on the composition of the vinyl, the ambient temperatures and several other conditions, this can be from 5 - 8 hours. Maybe more. Why risk it? Perhaps if you keep the vinyl warm after playing, the plastic deformation will right itself more quickly? The danger there is that the system will permanently anneal. Under these conditions, the next playing will erase the thinnest /\/\/\/\/\/ \. |
#15
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Caring For Your LPs
"Peter Wieck" wrote in message ups.com... Ian: Please note the interpolations. I don't quite follow this heat and stress dissipation thing. Surely the vinyl can't take so long to cool down. Is stress the kind of thing that dissipates? It does dissipate, and in less than 24 hours, obviously. But the "rule of thumb" is for a reason. More-or-less as follows: When the vinyl is heated, as with many plastics, it will expand in one direction and shrink in another. It also work-hardens at the thickest sections and anneals at the thinnest. These inposed properties will dissipate when the entire system reaches equilibrium, but that is more than just a few hours. As Chris noted the G-forces are considerable and the contact temperatures are as well. Whack a system that is alternately soft-and-brittle too quickly again and it will fail. Depending on the composition of the vinyl, the ambient temperatures and several other conditions, this can be from 5 - 8 hours. Maybe more. Why risk it? Perhaps if you keep the vinyl warm after playing, the plastic deformation will right itself more quickly? The danger there is that the system will permanently anneal. Under these conditions, the next playing will erase the thinnest /\/\/\/\/\/ \. Maybe an infra-red laser following the stylus would allow more rapid replay? Problem to avoid preheating the next groove, however. See above. I don't see how tracking forces are greater for larger-diameter grooves, either. The linear velocity is greater, so I would expect the deformation due to the static weight of the arm and cartridge to be less. Perhaps this is counteracted by an increase in stylus temperature due to the greater linear velocity though... The forces due to the signal should depend only on the signal. Some 78 stylii require 5+ grams of tracking force. And a 15kHz tone will require that stylus to be whacked back and forth that many times in a second. So, now one has an ~5 psi weght traveling at ~4 mph... Lots of heat, lots of friction, and on a substrate that is delicate enough to be "printed", yet rigid enough to hold the imprint. That balance is incredibly delicate.... or records would last forever. Correct? Peter Wieck Wyncote, PA I played an LP section 4 times in a row and immediately placed my sensitive lips on that section. Felt just like room temperature. ????? west |
#16
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Caring For Your LPs
On May 9, 1:04 pm, "west" wrote:
"Peter Wieck" wrote in message ups.com... Ian: Please note the interpolations. I don't quite follow this heat and stress dissipation thing. Surely the vinyl can't take so long to cool down. Is stress the kind of thing that dissipates? It does dissipate, and in less than 24 hours, obviously. But the "rule of thumb" is for a reason. More-or-less as follows: When the vinyl is heated, as with many plastics, it will expand in one direction and shrink in another. It also work-hardens at the thickest sections and anneals at the thinnest. These inposed properties will dissipate when the entire system reaches equilibrium, but that is more than just a few hours. As Chris noted the G-forces are considerable and the contact temperatures are as well. Whack a system that is alternately soft-and-brittle too quickly again and it will fail. Depending on the composition of the vinyl, the ambient temperatures and several other conditions, this can be from 5 - 8 hours. Maybe more. Why risk it? Perhaps if you keep the vinyl warm after playing, the plastic deformation will right itself more quickly? The danger there is that the system will permanently anneal. Under these conditions, the next playing will erase the thinnest /\/\/\/\/\/ \. Maybe an infra-red laser following the stylus would allow more rapid replay? Problem to avoid preheating the next groove, however. See above. I don't see how tracking forces are greater for larger-diameter grooves, either. The linear velocity is greater, so I would expect the deformation due to the static weight of the arm and cartridge to be less. Perhaps this is counteracted by an increase in stylus temperature due to the greater linear velocity though... The forces due to the signal should depend only on the signal. Some 78 stylii require 5+ grams of tracking force. And a 15kHz tone will require that stylus to be whacked back and forth that many times in a second. So, now one has an ~5 psi weght traveling at ~4 mph... Lots of heat, lots of friction, and on a substrate that is delicate enough to be "printed", yet rigid enough to hold the imprint. That balance is incredibly delicate.... or records would last forever. Correct? Peter Wieck Wyncote, PA I played an LP section 4 times in a row and immediately placed my sensitive lips on that section. Felt just like room temperature. ????? west- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Two questions: You have lips? If so, which ones? Peter Wieck Wyncote, PA |
#17
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Caring For Your LPs
On 9 May 2007 07:09:16 -0700, Peter Wieck wrote:
Lots of heat, lots of friction, and on a substrate that is delicate enough to be "printed", yet rigid enough to hold the imprint. That balance is incredibly delicate.... or records would last forever. Correct? The classic analogy is to bumblebees, at one time "proven" to be unable to fly. If modern engineering analysis of phonographs were available in the early twentieth century, nobody would have bothered trying. I'd guess that this might be true for a lot of modern society, so there's both good and bad about it... Much thanks, as always, Chris Hornbeck |
#18
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Caring For Your LPs
On May 10, 12:09 am, Chris Hornbeck
wrote: The classic analogy is to bumblebees, at one time "proven" to be unable to fly. But they can't. They transport by magic. Just as Vinyl "can't" sound good. It's all magic. My kind of magic, but magic nonetheless. Peter Wieck Wyncote, PA |
#19
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Caring For Your LPs
"west" wrote in message
news:g9u%h.1520$wy2.1358@trnddc03 I would like some practical advice on how to clean and care for my LPs. A colleague told me he just uses soap and water. I don't think that this is a good idea especially because the water in Florida is very hard. I owned a VPI 16 that bit the dust a few years ago. Looking at some of the prices for auto cleaning machines and the various specialized fluids seem outlandish. Yet some of my records are (to me) irreplaceable. How do you care for your vinyl? Thanks in advance. The best way to care for LPs is to do all the things you say, digitize them, and play the digital transcriptions to save wear and tear on the origionals. |
#20
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Caring For Your LPs
On 10 May 2007 03:42:42 -0700, Peter Wieck wrote:
The classic analogy is to bumblebees, at one time "proven" to be unable to fly. But they can't. They transport by magic. Just as Vinyl "can't" sound good. It's all magic. My kind of magic, but magic nonetheless. You've gotten at my point better than I possibly could've. The magic is (hopefully always) just beyond our reach. As an aside, I personally hope that this is the long-term- damn-the-tordeoes-full-speed-ahead goal of this newsgroup: magic. It ain't as trivial a subject as might be (trivially) assumed. Much thanks, as always, Chris Hornbeck |
#21
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Caring For Your LPs
Chris Hornbeck wrote: On 10 May 2007 03:42:42 -0700, Peter Wieck wrote: The classic analogy is to bumblebees, at one time "proven" to be unable to fly. But they can't. They transport by magic. Just as Vinyl "can't" sound good. It's all magic. My kind of magic, but magic nonetheless. You've gotten at my point better than I possibly could've. The magic is (hopefully always) just beyond our reach. As an aside, I personally hope that this is the long-term- damn-the-tordeoes-full-speed-ahead goal of this newsgroup: magic. You must be the eternal optimist if your'e in the navy. Can't escape up into the hills, can't fly out, and everything that's fast or cunning makes a hit. But vinyl gives us a magical return to the past, or brings the past into the present, whatever, and I like the medium as much as I did when it was all we had, and when my ears were young and thought it so wonderful without being a critical curmudgeon of an old man. Its fine to farewell youth, but much of being young was a vibrant experience we need never forget. Patrick Turner. It ain't as trivial a subject as might be (trivially) assumed. Much thanks, as always, Chris Hornbeck |
#22
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Caring For Your LPs
"Ian Iveson" wrote in message ... west wrote I would like some practical advice on how to clean and care for my LPs. A colleague told me he just uses soap and water. I don't think that this is a good idea especially because the water in Florida is very hard. I owned a VPI 16 that bit the dust a few years ago. Looking at some of the prices for auto cleaning machines and the various specialized fluids seem outlandish. Yet some of my records are (to me) irreplaceable. How do you care for your vinyl? Thanks in advance. Stubborn stains can be removed with fine carborundum paste. Rinse thoroughly in methylene chloride. Dry in the microwave. Lubricate with concentrated lime juice. cordially, Ian My vinyl would melt. west |
#23
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Caring For Your LPs
I use 25% alcohol, 75% distilled water, and then a drop of photo-flo.
The photo flo should be in a 1/200 ratio, it is used to clean photo negatives, which are based on gelatin emulsion, so it will not hurt vinyl. It is a wetting agent, it reduces surface tension so it gets down into the grooves. |
#24
Posted to rec.audio.tubes
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Caring For Your LPs
"Dersu Uzala" wrote in message . .. I use 25% alcohol, 75% distilled water, and then a drop of photo-flo. The photo flo should be in a 1/200 ratio, it is used to clean photo negatives, which are based on gelatin emulsion, so it will not hurt vinyl. It is a wetting agent, it reduces surface tension so it gets down into the grooves. Thanks for the tip. It makes a lot of sense. Do you use a machine or clean by hand? west |