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#121
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"hank alrich" wrote in message ... Yes, the Beri might be the problem, or it might be revealing a problem with the rest of the system. In short heh it's not worth getting electrocuted over. Get out the VOM and start looking for the "why?" behind it to make sure things are installed and conifured safely. I think I will see if I can get the 2496 before I look for the ground loop etc, I think it will not have the connection problems that the 6200 has. I will then go out from the receiver from 100 Hz on up, with the subwoof freqs going straight from the sub out of the receiver to the Velodyne. Alternative plan would be to go full range out of receiver thru Behringer to an electronic crossover (I already have a Richter Scale) and then to the power amps and sub. Gary |
#122
Posted to rec.audio.pro
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"Gary Eickmeier" said...news:ACMfv.132741
: "hank alrich" wrote in message ... Yes, the Beri might be the problem, or it might be revealing a problem with the rest of the system. In short heh it's not worth getting electrocuted over. Get out the VOM and start looking for the "why?" behind it to make sure things are installed and conifured safely. I think I will see if I can get the 2496 before I look for the ground loop etc, I think it will not have the connection problems that the 6200 has. I will then go out from the receiver from 100 Hz on up, with the subwoof freqs going straight from the sub out of the receiver to the Velodyne. Alternative plan would be to go full range out of receiver thru Behringer to an electronic crossover (I already have a Richter Scale) and then to the power amps and sub. Gary You will still likely have the ground loop problem, and it should be the highest priority for you to fix it. david |
#123
Posted to rec.audio.pro
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Gary Eickmeier wrote:
"hank alrich" wrote in message ... Yes, the Beri might be the problem, or it might be revealing a problem with the rest of the system. In short heh it's not worth getting electrocuted over. Get out the VOM and start looking for the "why?" behind it to make sure things are installed and conifured safely. I think I will see if I can get the 2496 before I look for the ground loop etc, I think it will not have the connection problems that the 6200 has. I will then go out from the receiver from 100 Hz on up, with the subwoof freqs going straight from the sub out of the receiver to the Velodyne. Alternative plan would be to go full range out of receiver thru Behringer to an electronic crossover (I already have a Richter Scale) and then to the power amps and sub. Gary Are the receiver outputs balanced? How about the 6200's inputs? -- shut up and play your guitar * HankAlrich.Com HankandShaidriMusic.Com YouTube.Com/WalkinayMusic |
#124
Posted to rec.audio.pro
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"hank alrich" wrote in message ... Gary Eickmeier wrote: "hank alrich" wrote in message ... Yes, the Beri might be the problem, or it might be revealing a problem with the rest of the system. In short heh it's not worth getting electrocuted over. Get out the VOM and start looking for the "why?" behind it to make sure things are installed and conifured safely. I think I will see if I can get the 2496 before I look for the ground loop etc, I think it will not have the connection problems that the 6200 has. I will then go out from the receiver from 100 Hz on up, with the subwoof freqs going straight from the sub out of the receiver to the Velodyne. Alternative plan would be to go full range out of receiver thru Behringer to an electronic crossover (I already have a Richter Scale) and then to the power amps and sub. Gary Are the receiver outputs balanced? How about the 6200's inputs? No, and this is a problem with amateur or home equipment. Everything is RCA in and out. The 6200 and the 2496 both have balanced XLR in and out, but they provide for unbalanced use by telling me to bridge pins 1 and 3 (ground and cold, or negative). Could that be the cause of my ground loop problem, because I did not do that? Anyway, I have ordered the exchange of the 6200 for the DEQ2496, and have begun studying the owners manual. Might have them send the new unit in advance so that I could have them both here for a day or two, then send the 6200 back if the new one works fine in my system. This 2496 will be a whole new learning curve for me, so please stick with me. Probably should start a new thread about it when I start to use it. You guys were right, it has some amazing capabilities that I hope I can use. I want to master it for when I get my new speakers in a month or two. Thanks for your help Hank and all, Gary |
#125
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On 5/24/2014 12:15 PM, Gary Eickmeier wrote:
"hank alrich" wrote in message ... Gary Eickmeier wrote: "hank alrich" wrote in message ... Yes, the Beri might be the problem, or it might be revealing a problem with the rest of the system. In short heh it's not worth getting electrocuted over. Get out the VOM and start looking for the "why?" behind it to make sure things are installed and conifured safely. I think I will see if I can get the 2496 before I look for the ground loop etc, I think it will not have the connection problems that the 6200 has. I will then go out from the receiver from 100 Hz on up, with the subwoof freqs going straight from the sub out of the receiver to the Velodyne. Alternative plan would be to go full range out of receiver thru Behringer to an electronic crossover (I already have a Richter Scale) and then to the power amps and sub. Gary Are the receiver outputs balanced? How about the 6200's inputs? No, and this is a problem with amateur or home equipment. Everything is RCA in and out. The 6200 and the 2496 both have balanced XLR in and out, but they provide for unbalanced use by telling me to bridge pins 1 and 3 (ground and cold, or negative). Could that be the cause of my ground loop problem, because I did not do that? Anyway, I have ordered the exchange of the 6200 for the DEQ2496, and have begun studying the owners manual. Might have them send the new unit in advance so that I could have them both here for a day or two, then send the 6200 back if the new one works fine in my system. This 2496 will be a whole new learning curve for me, so please stick with me. Probably should start a new thread about it when I start to use it. You guys were right, it has some amazing capabilities that I hope I can use. I want to master it for when I get my new speakers in a month or two. Thanks for your help Hank and all, Gary You might want to check out these adapters: Hosa Technology GXM133 Signal Converter Hosa GXF-132 RCA Female to XLR Female You should also read this tech note: http://www.rane.com/note110.html == Later... Ron Capik -- |
#126
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Gary Eickmeier wrote:
No, and this is a problem with amateur or home equipment. Everything is RCA in and out. The 6200 and the 2496 both have balanced XLR in and out, but they provide for unbalanced use by telling me to bridge pins 1 and 3 (ground and cold, or negative). Could that be the cause of my ground loop problem, because I did not do that? Yes. Follow the directions. --scott -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." |
#127
Posted to rec.audio.pro
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"Scott Dorsey" wrote in message ... Gary Eickmeier wrote: No, and this is a problem with amateur or home equipment. Everything is RCA in and out. The 6200 and the 2496 both have balanced XLR in and out, but they provide for unbalanced use by telling me to bridge pins 1 and 3 (ground and cold, or negative). Could that be the cause of my ground loop problem, because I did not do that? Yes. Follow the directions. --scott OK, printing Ron's link and looking up the Hosa connectors. Gary |
#128
Posted to rec.audio.pro
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"hank alrich" wrote in message
... Sean Conolly wrote: "Gary Eickmeier" wrote in message ... "Sean Conolly" wrote in message ... "PStamler" wrote in message Typically the Behringer would be used in a simpler way. The mixing board's output would feed the Behringer's input, then the Behringer's output would go directly to the power amps rather than back to the mixer. Yep. K.I.S.S. Sean ... and I was more than concerned at first with a hum and buzz that it was contributing to my system. The solution was a cheater plug to bypass the ground pin. As has been pointed out - this is never a good idea. A simple solution is to run everything off the same phase of power, which is easy to test by running everything from one outlet. And I do mean *everything* that is electrically connected by cables including your signal source. Yes, the Beri might be the problem, or it might be revealing a problem with the rest of the system. In short heh it's not worth getting electrocuted over. Get out the VOM and start looking for the "why?" behind it to make sure things are installed and conifured safely. Having seen that Gary had four 20A circuits run to that room, I will bet money that they were put on diffrerent phases just to spread the load out. That's what happens when you ask for four times the current than you really need. I've had full bands rehearsing in my my music room with toob amps and full PA on a single 20A circuit. Gary - get some extension cords, it's a cheap work-around for that problem before something bad happens. Sean |
#129
Posted to rec.audio.pro
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"Sean Conolly" wrote in message ... Having seen that Gary had four 20A circuits run to that room, I will bet money that they were put on diffrerent phases just to spread the load out. That's what happens when you ask for four times the current than you really need. I've had full bands rehearsing in my my music room with toob amps and full PA on a single 20A circuit. Gary - get some extension cords, it's a cheap work-around for that problem before something bad happens. Sean Running my whole system on extension cords is better than having multiple outlets? Anyway, when the 2496 arrives I will straighten this all out. Gary |
#130
Posted to rec.audio.pro
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"Gary Eickmeier" writes:
"Sean Conolly" wrote in message ... Having seen that Gary had four 20A circuits run to that room, I will bet money that they were put on diffrerent phases just to spread the load out. That's what happens when you ask for four times the current than you really need. I've had full bands rehearsing in my my music room with toob amps and full PA on a single 20A circuit. Gary - get some extension cords, it's a cheap work-around for that problem before something bad happens. Sean Running my whole system on extension cords is better than having multiple outlets? Under some conditions, yes. (And not your whole system, just cording what's necessary to pull power of the same side of the breaker box.) Go to your breaker box. Are the four breakers all on the left column or all on the right column, or are some on one side and some on the other? If you have them on both sides, you can eliminate one potential (no pun) problem by selecting one side or the other, then abandoning plugs on the other side. (I'd orient this based on the biggest source of dynamic peak load, which would typically be the power amplifiers -- unless you have true class-A amps, and then is doesn't matter so much because there is no "peak" load -- those guys are drawing full juice all the time.) If you wanted to, you could start swapping breakers around to get all the audio circuits on one side. Breakers pop on an off the buss bars pretty easily, but do NOT attempt this unless you absolutely know what you're doing, and how to redress everything inside the box once the moves are completed. All things being equal, perhaps more important than having huge amounts of excess current for your set-up is the quality of the circuits. A few of the simplest, best things you can do for home audio power include: - circuit for audio power is a "home run" to breaker box -- it's one wire to one outlet, period. There are NO other outlets or switches, no breaks in the line with wire nuts in a j-box, whatever. Just breaker to wire to one outlet. Nothing more. (Or, if you do want more outlets, put them in a dual, triple, or quad box right next to each other.) - bump up the size of the wire. So, for example, in a 20A circuit, use 10 gauge instead of the code-required 12 (Doesn't affect code if you go up in capacity). You at least lower the R in the R-C-L circuit that is your power feed, and that helps several things. And, make sure it's good wire! (Been talk lately of counterfit wire in the CAT-x arena (Cu clad Al). Haven't heard of building wire like this, but who knows.) - While the wire size typically dictates this, always make sure the screw terminals of the outlet are used (avoid the "stabber" poke-in terminals). Periodically kill the power, pull out the outlets, take a screw driver and make sure the terminals are still very tight. If over time you run across a screw that seems to keep coming loose, replace the outlet. - use higher quality plugs that use good metal with good mechanics on how the contacts wipe the prongs. Might be overkill, but you could use medical-grade power plugs if it makes you feel better. I would not, however, get involved with stupidly over-priced "audiophile" AC outlets. (Might be such a thing, dunno. But don't bother. Medical grade should be more than adequate.) - you can also help your audio indirectly by putting noisy loads (such as your computer equipment, projector, phone chargers, etc) on its own home run, and putting the breaker(s) for those loads on the buss bar opposide your audio loads. That way, you're shunting a lot of that switching ps noise all the way back to the transformer in the street. By that time, it's too feeble to cause many problems. If equipment power supplies were all perfect (or at least well-built), the above would not matter all that much. But all too many manufacturers cheap-out when it comes to the PS. You can live that that if your power is really good, not so much so otherwise. That's why the techniques above can improve chances for a clean system. Frank Mobile Audio -- |
#131
Posted to rec.audio.pro
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Gary Eickmeier wrote:
This 2496 will be a whole new learning curve for me, so please stick with me. Probably should start a new thread about it when I start to use it. You guys were right, it has some amazing capabilities that I hope I can use. I want to master it for when I get my new speakers in a month or two. The DEQ2496 will do many things simultaneously. Proceed cautiously, because for starters there is one hellaciously powerful parametric EQ in there, badass enough to get you into big trouble quickly. -- shut up and play your guitar * HankAlrich.Com HankandShaidriMusic.Com YouTube.Com/WalkinayMusic |
#132
Posted to rec.audio.pro
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Freq Response Graph Paper
"hank alrich" wrote in message ... The DEQ2496 will do many things simultaneously. Proceed cautiously, because for starters there is one hellaciously powerful parametric EQ in there, badass enough to get you into big trouble quickly. Yes, will do. I try to always start from the ground up, known to unknown, so that I might understand what each change has done and can go back. I am trying to get a grip on the frequency response curve itself right now - which one do we want, back at the listening position? I don't think it is going to be "flat" as such, but is there a known ideal room curve for EQing a system? If there is some agreement on this base question, then I know I will be able to achieve it with the 2496. Gary |
#133
Posted to rec.audio.pro
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Electocution (Was " Freq Response Graph Paper")
None wrote:
"Frank Stearns" wrote in message ... If you wanted to, you could start swapping breakers around to get all the audio circuits on one side. This is probably not a good thing to recommend to someone who's been responding to noise issued by lifting power grounds. Good call. "If you wanted to" - a key phrase, and one would hope to Gawd Herself that Gary knows better than to do this without the assistance of someone who knows what's what about it. If he began this phase (heh) of his latest audio journey by ignoring the instructions for inserting a balanced I/O device into an unbalanced signal chain, ****ing around in the breaker box is probably not advised. -- shut up and play your guitar * HankAlrich.Com HankandShaidriMusic.Com YouTube.Com/WalkinayMusic |
#134
Posted to rec.audio.pro
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Electocution (Was " Freq Response Graph Paper")
"hank alrich" wrote in message ... None wrote: "Frank Stearns" wrote in message ... If you wanted to, you could start swapping breakers around to get all the audio circuits on one side. This is probably not a good thing to recommend to someone who's been responding to noise issued by lifting power grounds. Good call. "If you wanted to" - a key phrase, and one would hope to Gawd Herself that Gary knows better than to do this without the assistance of someone who knows what's what about it. If he began this phase (heh) of his latest audio journey by ignoring the instructions for inserting a balanced I/O device into an unbalanced signal chain, ****ing around in the breaker box is probably not advised. If you are talking about the bridging of pins 1 and 3 for the subwoofer out on the 6200, I have eliminated that problem by not using that output. That was the only XLR out on the 6200. On the 2496, the only XLRs I will have to use will be the inputs, which I am meeting with my dealer on Tuesday to get some bridged adapters made up. They were the ones who advised me that the bridging is not necessary because pin 1 is already a ground, and I believed them. Taking no chances next time and doing it exactly as described in the manual. Anything to avoid the wrath of None. Gary |
#135
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On 05/25/2014 07:49 AM, Frank Stearns wrote:
"Gary Eickmeier" writes: "Sean Conolly" wrote in message ... Having seen that Gary had four 20A circuits run to that room, I will bet money that they were put on diffrerent phases just to spread the load out. That's what happens when you ask for four times the current than you really need. I've had full bands rehearsing in my my music room with toob amps and full PA on a single 20A circuit. Gary - get some extension cords, it's a cheap work-around for that problem before something bad happens. Sean Running my whole system on extension cords is better than having multiple outlets? Under some conditions, yes. (And not your whole system, just cording what's necessary to pull power of the same side of the breaker box.) Go to your breaker box. Are the four breakers all on the left column or all on the right column, or are some on one side and some on the other? If you have them on both sides, you can eliminate one potential (no pun) problem by selecting one side or the other, then abandoning plugs on the other side. (I'd orient this based on the biggest source of dynamic peak load, which would typically be the power amplifiers -- unless you have true class-A amps, and then is doesn't matter so much because there is no "peak" load -- those guys are drawing full juice all the time.) If you wanted to, you could start swapping breakers around to get all the audio circuits on one side. Breakers pop on an off the buss bars pretty easily, but do NOT attempt this unless you absolutely know what you're doing, and how to redress everything inside the box once the moves are completed. Someone is confused about the layout of circuit breakers and their connections in a panel. For a standard residential service (3-wire 120/240-volt single-phase) there are two hot buses in the service panel, and often the circuit breakers are arranged in two columns. But putting a group of circuits on one side of the panel does not guarantee that the circuits are fed from the same side of the mains, because the columns do not simply correspond to the buses. In fact, the bus and breaker slot connections are interleaved so adjacent breakers in each column are fed from different buses. That's how a single-pole breaker protects a 120V circuit but a two-pole breaker protects a 240 V circuit. If panels were constructed with all the breakers in a column being connected to the same bus then a two-pole breaker would have zero volts between its two "hot" outputs. --John Corbett |
#136
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On 5/25/2014 9:18 PM, John Corbett wrote:
On 05/25/2014 07:49 AM, Frank Stearns wrote: "Gary Eickmeier" writes: "Sean Conolly" wrote in message ... Having seen that Gary had four 20A circuits run to that room, I will bet money that they were put on diffrerent phases just to spread the load out. That's what happens when you ask for four times the current than you really need. I've had full bands rehearsing in my my music room with toob amps and full PA on a single 20A circuit. Gary - get some extension cords, it's a cheap work-around for that problem before something bad happens. Sean Running my whole system on extension cords is better than having multiple outlets? Under some conditions, yes. (And not your whole system, just cording what's necessary to pull power of the same side of the breaker box.) Go to your breaker box. Are the four breakers all on the left column or all on the right column, or are some on one side and some on the other? If you have them on both sides, you can eliminate one potential (no pun) problem by selecting one side or the other, then abandoning plugs on the other side. (I'd orient this based on the biggest source of dynamic peak load, which would typically be the power amplifiers -- unless you have true class-A amps, and then is doesn't matter so much because there is no "peak" load -- those guys are drawing full juice all the time.) If you wanted to, you could start swapping breakers around to get all the audio circuits on one side. Breakers pop on an off the buss bars pretty easily, but do NOT attempt this unless you absolutely know what you're doing, and how to redress everything inside the box once the moves are completed. Someone is confused about the layout of circuit breakers and their connections in a panel. For a standard residential service (3-wire 120/240-volt single-phase) there are two hot buses in the service panel, and often the circuit breakers are arranged in two columns. But putting a group of circuits on one side of the panel does not guarantee that the circuits are fed from the same side of the mains, because the columns do not simply correspond to the buses. In fact, the bus and breaker slot connections are interleaved so adjacent breakers in each column are fed from different buses. That's how a single-pole breaker protects a 120V circuit but a two-pole breaker protects a 240 V circuit. If panels were constructed with all the breakers in a column being connected to the same bus then a two-pole breaker would have zero volts between its two "hot" outputs. --John Corbett I am not an electrician, so my experience is limited. But one bit of trivia that I know about service panels and breakers: The old "Pushmatic" breakers and the panels in which they are used DO have straight buses (not interleaved), with all of the 120V breakers in the "left" column powered by the same bus (left bus) and one side of the 240V service, the 120V breakers in the "right" column powered by the other bus (right bus) and the other side of the 240V service. A 240V breaker fits into both sides/buses/columns at the same time to make the full 240V connection. I was quite surprised to learn later in my adult life that there were service panels with interleaved buses, but my only experience had been the Pushmatic type in the family home. Advantages and disadvantages to each approach. John Hardy |
#137
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John Corbett writes:
On 05/25/2014 07:49 AM, Frank Stearns wrote: "Gary Eickmeier" writes: "Sean Conolly" wrote in message ... Having seen that Gary had four 20A circuits run to that room, I will bet money that they were put on diffrerent phases just to spread the load out. That's what happens when you ask for four times the current than you really need. I've had full bands rehearsing in my my music room with toob amps and full PA on a single 20A circuit. Gary - get some extension cords, it's a cheap work-around for that problem before something bad happens. Sean Running my whole system on extension cords is better than having multiple outlets? Under some conditions, yes. (And not your whole system, just cording what's necessary to pull power of the same side of the breaker box.) Go to your breaker box. Are the four breakers all on the left column or all on the right column, or are some on one side and some on the other? If you have them on both sides, you can eliminate one potential (no pun) problem by selecting one side or the other, then abandoning plugs on the other side. (I'd orient this based on the biggest source of dynamic peak load, which would typically be the power amplifiers -- unless you have true class-A amps, and then is doesn't matter so much because there is no "peak" load -- those guys are drawing full juice all the time.) If you wanted to, you could start swapping breakers around to get all the audio circuits on one side. Breakers pop on an off the buss bars pretty easily, but do NOT attempt this unless you absolutely know what you're doing, and how to redress everything inside the box once the moves are completed. Someone is confused about the layout of circuit breakers and their connections in a panel. For a standard residential service (3-wire 120/240-volt single-phase) there are two hot buses in the service panel, and often the circuit breakers are arranged in two columns. But putting a group of circuits on one side of the panel does not guarantee that the circuits are fed from the same side of the mains, because the columns do not simply correspond to the buses. In fact, the bus and breaker slot connections are interleaved so adjacent breakers in each column are fed from different buses. That's how a single-pole breaker protects a 120V circuit but a two-pole breaker protects a 240 V circuit. If panels were constructed with all the breakers in a column being connected to the same bus then a two-pole breaker would have zero volts between its two "hot" outputs. John, my bad -- You are absolutely right. Thanks for the correction. (Been too long since I've been in a service panel!) Frank -- |
#138
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"Frank Stearns" wrote in message acquisition... John Corbett writes: On 05/25/2014 07:49 AM, Frank Stearns wrote: "Gary Eickmeier" writes: "Sean Conolly" wrote in message ... Having seen that Gary had four 20A circuits run to that room, I will bet money that they were put on diffrerent phases just to spread the load out. That's what happens when you ask for four times the current than you really need. I've had full bands rehearsing in my my music room with toob amps and full PA on a single 20A circuit. Gary - get some extension cords, it's a cheap work-around for that problem before something bad happens. Sean Running my whole system on extension cords is better than having multiple outlets? Under some conditions, yes. (And not your whole system, just cording what's necessary to pull power of the same side of the breaker box.) Go to your breaker box. Are the four breakers all on the left column or all on the right column, or are some on one side and some on the other? If you have them on both sides, you can eliminate one potential (no pun) problem by selecting one side or the other, then abandoning plugs on the other side. (I'd orient this based on the biggest source of dynamic peak load, which would typically be the power amplifiers -- unless you have true class-A amps, and then is doesn't matter so much because there is no "peak" load -- those guys are drawing full juice all the time.) If you wanted to, you could start swapping breakers around to get all the audio circuits on one side. Breakers pop on an off the buss bars pretty easily, but do NOT attempt this unless you absolutely know what you're doing, and how to redress everything inside the box once the moves are completed. Someone is confused about the layout of circuit breakers and their connections in a panel. For a standard residential service (3-wire 120/240-volt single-phase) there are two hot buses in the service panel, and often the circuit breakers are arranged in two columns. But putting a group of circuits on one side of the panel does not guarantee that the circuits are fed from the same side of the mains, because the columns do not simply correspond to the buses. In fact, the bus and breaker slot connections are interleaved so adjacent breakers in each column are fed from different buses. That's how a single-pole breaker protects a 120V circuit but a two-pole breaker protects a 240 V circuit. If panels were constructed with all the breakers in a column being connected to the same bus then a two-pole breaker would have zero volts between its two "hot" outputs. John, my bad -- You are absolutely right. Thanks for the correction. (Been too long since I've been in a service panel!) Frank The breakers are all on the right side column at positions 22, 26, 36, and 38. Would it help to tell you it is a type G1 enclosure for the breakers? The breakers are horizontal levers, which probably means not "Pushmatic." Gary |
#139
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"Gary Eickmeier" wrote in message ... And I have found some proper XLR to female RCA adapters that have pins 1 and 3 already connected, or bridged, at Parts Express. Side note on bass management: It was a mistake to get the 6200 for the sub out connection anyway, because the only correct place to do bass management is in the receiver, for two good reasons. Number 1, the receiver will manage the bass for all 5 channels and assign the bass for the subwoofer accordingly. Number 2, the .1 channel - if there is content in the .1 channel for movies or anything, only the receiver can do the decoding properly. If I sent just the front L and R channels to the equalizer, I would not get that .1 channel info for the sub at all. So, hopefully, I will continue to go out from the sub out of the receiver to the Velodyne, and from the front two channels to the Behringer 2496, and from the receiver to the center and surround channels still unequalized. The 2496 requires the unbalanced XLR connector be used for input and for output I can use either the XLR or the phone jack connectors, both unbalanced. Will probably be a week before I receive the 2496 and send the 6200 back. In the meantime, I have the Rane connectors info to study and the 2496 manual. Gary |
#140
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Freq Response Graph Paper
Gary, get this month's JAES and read _Listening Environment Preferences for
Sound Engineers_. In this case, they measured impulse responses of various control rooms in multiple dimensions, then used wavefront reconstruction techniques to play back recorded materials through those simulated control room models through a large speaker array in an anechoic chamber. They presented these to a number of mixing engineers and asked them to evaluate the rooms. The modelling and reproduction was sufficiently accurate that all but one of the engineers was able to identify the studio where he most commonly worked, and one engineer was able to identify it down to two samples. In any event, what is interesting here is that it permits people to evaluate (simulated) rooms one after the other without their ears having any chance to adjust to the room. The discussions about which rooms sounded better and which sounded worse were very interesting. --scott -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." |
#141
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Hey! I forgot all about this, but I have had this online for years. I
don't even remember where it came from. http://www.panix.com/~kludge/Command...XOutXGraph.jpg --scott -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." |
#142
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Freq Response Graph Paper
On 7/15/2014 9:08 AM, Scott Dorsey wrote:
Hey! I forgot all about this, but I have had this online for years. I don't even remember where it came from. Gee, real cycles, too. I wonder if Command Records ever did clinics at Hi Fi dealers. I had my McIntosh A-112 (predecessor to the MC-30) checked out at a clinic they held at Myer-Emco many years ago. They gave me a new set of output tubes for it to bring it into factory spec when it was 30 years old. I got a plot like that for it, only with the McIntosh logo. . -- For a good time, visit http://mikeriversaudio.wordpress.com |
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