I read somewhere here that you can add a volume control (potentiometer)
for your sub(s). Im not too good on the technical side but if theres
good directions, I can do anything. I know it can be done but Im just
not sure how to wire it.

I did it and it was REALLY easy. The problem is I don't remember which
model potentiometer I used (I would have to take my dash apart to look). I
bought it at Radio Shack and I remember I had to try a couple of different
ones until I found one that attenuated the signal in a way I liked (for
instance, one had the signal basically "off" for 95% of the rotation, so I
would have used only 5% of the rotation to control my subs). But I did find
one that worked great (Radio Shack just let me return the others). Perhaps
someone here can recommend what ohm level you need to look for. There are
three terminals on the potentiometer. The positive of the RCA from the HU
AND the positive of the RCA from the amp go to one, and then the negative of
the HU goes to the second and the negative of the amp goes to the third
(obviously with a sub it will just be mono). And there you go!

MOSFET


"spongehead" wrote in message
ups.com...
I read somewhere here that you can add a volume control (potentiometer)
for your sub(s). Im not too good on the technical side but if theres
good directions, I can do anything. I know it can be done but Im just
not sure how to wire it.

I'm probably wrong, but this group's FAQ might have a detailed description
of what you need.

MOSFET
"spongehead" wrote in message
ups.com...
I read somewhere here that you can add a volume control (potentiometer)
for your sub(s). Im not too good on the technical side but if theres
good directions, I can do anything. I know it can be done but Im just
not sure how to wire it.

I'll take a gander at the faq's, but since theres a left and a right,
each with its own + and - , do I run both + to one side of the pot, the
- to the other side of the pot, than the - from the amp?

spongehead wrote:
I'll take a gander at the faq's, but since theres a left and a right,
each with its own + and - , do I run both + to one side of the pot,
the - to the other side of the pot, than the - from the amp?

You don't want a simple potentiometer. You want an L-Pad. The difference being
that an L-Pad produces a constant OHM load to your amp regardless of the volume
setting. A Simple pot could short out your amp. An L-Pad will be considerable
larger and more expensive and is unlikely to be found at Radio Shack.

I'm a little confused by your post. First thing, sum (combine) the left and
right channel of the outputs of your HU (so you will start with four wires
and end with two, a positive and a negative) because your subwoofer does not
need to be stereo. Then follow the directions of my previous post.

MOSFET

"spongehead" wrote in message
oups.com...
I'll take a gander at the faq's, but since theres a left and a right,
each with its own + and - , do I run both + to one side of the pot, the
- to the other side of the pot, than the - from the amp?

like so? :
http://www.lashen.com/vendors/csispe...ion/L-Pads.asp
or http://www.usspeaker.com/L-Pad%20100-8-1.htm
Do I need anything rated higher than 100 watts?

Well, all I know is I have been using a potentiometer for years and it works
PERFECT. No shorts.

MOSFET

"Rick Brandt" wrote in message
. com...
spongehead wrote:
I'll take a gander at the faq's, but since theres a left and a right,
each with its own + and - , do I run both + to one side of the pot,
the - to the other side of the pot, than the - from the amp?

You don't want a simple potentiometer. You want an L-Pad. The difference
being that an L-Pad produces a constant OHM load to your amp regardless of
the volume setting. A Simple pot could short out your amp. An L-Pad will
be considerable larger and more expensive and is unlikely to be found at
Radio Shack.

Rick, are you thinking I'm telling him to put it between the SPEAKERS and
the amp? That's NOT what I'm telling him. Furthermore, an L-pad that can
handle the kind of power loads for a sub would be VERY expensive. I really
don't think that's the way to go here.

MOSFET
"Rick Brandt" wrote in message
. com...
spongehead wrote:
I'll take a gander at the faq's, but since theres a left and a right,
each with its own + and - , do I run both + to one side of the pot,
the - to the other side of the pot, than the - from the amp?

You don't want a simple potentiometer. You want an L-Pad. The difference
being that an L-Pad produces a constant OHM load to your amp regardless of
the volume setting. A Simple pot could short out your amp. An L-Pad will
be considerable larger and more expensive and is unlikely to be found at
Radio Shack.

This Rick person obviously did not read my posts very carefully (I was
wondering how the hell you could short an amp out doing what I told you).
Trust me, there is no way you can hurt your gear doing what I said (putting
it between HU and amp), don't worry.

MOSFET


"spongehead" wrote in message
ups.com...
like so? :
http://www.lashen.com/vendors/csispe...ion/L-Pads.asp
or http://www.usspeaker.com/L-Pad%20100-8-1.htm
Do I need anything rated higher than 100 watts?

MOSFET wrote:
Rick, are you thinking I'm telling him to put it between the SPEAKERS
and the amp? That's NOT what I'm telling him. Furthermore, an L-pad
that can handle the kind of power loads for a sub would be VERY
expensive. I really don't think that's the way to go here.

My apologies. What was originally served up by my newsreader was the first,
third, and fourth post in the thread. I didn't see the second one until after I
posted. In that sequence it certainly sounded like he was going to put the pot
on the output of the amp.

Found someone that makes em, look at the N-22V
http://www.davidnavone.com/linedrivers.htm
Now, if I could find out the specs on that pot, I'll build my own....
or save up my change

This has been driving me nuts, now Im just determined to make one.
Advice I got from a techie guru friend of mine: "to control the input
to the 400-watt power amp, you can use a potentiometer. The value
should match the input impedance of the power amp. If there are specs
for it available, find it. Otherwise, something like 50Kohms should be
OK. The "pot" needs to be dual-ganged for stereo and should have a
logarithmic taper. This taper is standard for volume controls. Put the
input across the top and bottom terminals, and the output across the
center and bottom."
According to my amp specs, rca input impedence is 16K ohms, and I read
that it doesnt have to be stereo so a dual gang pot may not be
neccessary. If someone could please edit this diagram I made in paint
to show what goes where and what pot I should use, I would be
infinately grateful.
http://members.tripod.com/thegoodales/id12.html

Your diagram is fine except the potentiometer ("pot') has three connections,
not four. As I already posted, you will need to combine the positive lead
of the amp and abd positive lead of the HU to the first pot connection, then
the negative of the HU to the second connection, and the negative of the amp
to the third connection. Go to Radio shack and look for a pot with a value
around 16k ohm. Experiment if necessary (that's what I did). Again, you
aren't going to fry anything by just messing around with line-level signals.
MOSFET

"spongehead" wrote in message
oups.com...
This has been driving me nuts, now Im just determined to make one.
Advice I got from a techie guru friend of mine: "to control the input
to the 400-watt power amp, you can use a potentiometer. The value
should match the input impedance of the power amp. If there are specs
for it available, find it. Otherwise, something like 50Kohms should be
OK. The "pot" needs to be dual-ganged for stereo and should have a
logarithmic taper. This taper is standard for volume controls. Put the
input across the top and bottom terminals, and the output across the
center and bottom."
According to my amp specs, rca input impedence is 16K ohms, and I read
that it doesnt have to be stereo so a dual gang pot may not be
neccessary. If someone could please edit this diagram I made in paint
to show what goes where and what pot I should use, I would be
infinately grateful.
http://members.tripod.com/thegoodales/id12.html

Sponge, I think you're making this harder than it needs to be. Your friend
the guru didn't seem to offer any advice a non-EE could understand. As I
have already stated, I have done EXACTLY what you want to do and it works
PERFECT. In my previous posts I have described exactly how to go about it.
It was REAL simple for me (surprisingly simple) and I have no electrical
background. If you want to make this thing way more complicated than it
needs to be, well I guess that's your decision, but I promise you the way I
described will work great.

MOSFET

Youre right, Im sure its real easy, but I just cant grasp the words and
put it to a picture. Now, what you described would be per channel,
right? I drew up another diagram if you would be so kind to take a
look and see if I got this right.
http://thegoodales.tripod.com/id12.html

I sent you a diagram to your personal Email becaue I don't think attachments
are allowed in Usenet. Your diagram is close, but there is something
fundamentaly wrong.

MOSFET

"Check this out (it's drawn really bad)."

Naw. It's a great drawing...

FOR ME TO POOP ON!!!

Tony


--
2001 Nissan Maxima SE Anniversary Edition
Clarion DRZ9255 Head Unit, Phoenix Gold ZX475ti, ZX450 and Xenon X1200.1
Amplifiers, Dynaudio System 360 Tri-Amped In Front and Focal 130HCs For Rear
Fill, Image Dynamics IDMAX10 D4 v.3 Sub

2001 Chevy S10 ZR2
Pioneer DEH-P9600MP Head Unit, Phoenix Gold Ti500.4 Amp, Focal 165HC
Speakers & Image Dynamics ID8 D4 v.3 Sub