Hello, Im looking to finish up my car stereo installation and Im looking for
opinions on subs. Currently in my Kia SUV I have

Panasonic MXE 9800 Head Unit
Eclipse 6.5 Comps in the front
Infinity Reference Coaxials in the rear

Power is from the Panasonic and I have a Blackmore "Bazooka Tube" for a sub
(Please no flames it was free)

I live near the Arc Audio HQ so I can get a 4150 for 400 bucks and that will
be my amp 85x4 @4. Either I will use 2 channels for the front and 2 for the
rear or power the rear with the head unit and bridge the other 2 channels of
the 4150 which outputs 380 @4.

Now I need sub recommendations, I listen to rock and fusion/jazz. I like to
feel the kick drum but I dont want to "bounce" down the street. I want to
feel the bass on Rush songs and really hear the kick on "When the Levee
Breaks". So that being said would I be better off with a single 10, dual
10's, a 12? Sealed enclosure or ported? Dual voice coil or single? My budget
is roughly 400-500 dollars w/enclosure. I am not against buying from ebay
either. Thanks for reading and fire away

Now I need sub recommendations, I listen to rock and fusion/jazz. I like
to
feel the kick drum but I dont want to "bounce" down the street. I want to
feel the bass on Rush songs and really hear the kick on "When the Levee
Breaks". So that being said would I be better off with a single 10, dual
10's, a 12?

Honestly, it doesn't matter. The performance of the sub in the box you plan
to build/buy is what matters. Box size will vary depending on subwoofer
size, but there's very little inherent sound quality that can be attributed
to the driver based on the cone size. Larger subs tend to handle more power
(but not always), be more efficient (but not always), and require larger box
sizes (but not always). I'd let those things be the deciding factor.

Sealed enclosure or ported?

Really depends a lot on the rest of the system, the car, and the mounting
location. You can have success with both enclosure types for the type of
music you listen to. There are more design considerations in terms of
filtering and so forth that should be employed with a ported design, and
it's a little harder to construct, larger box size, etc.

Dual voice coil or single?

Depends entirely on the amplifier. If you're going with a single subwoofer,
and the amplifier will be bridged running a 4 ohm load, then you want either
a SVC 4 ohm or DVC 2/8 ohm.

"Patrick" wrote in
:

Hello, Im looking to finish up my car stereo installation and Im
looking for opinions on subs. Currently in my Kia SUV I have

Panasonic MXE 9800 Head Unit
Eclipse 6.5 Comps in the front
Infinity Reference Coaxials in the rear

Power is from the Panasonic and I have a Blackmore "Bazooka Tube" for
a sub (Please no flames it was free)

I live near the Arc Audio HQ so I can get a 4150 for 400 bucks and
that will be my amp 85x4 @4. Either I will use 2 channels for the
front and 2 for the rear or power the rear with the head unit and
bridge the other 2 channels of the 4150 which outputs 380 @4.

Now I need sub recommendations, I listen to rock and fusion/jazz. I
like to feel the kick drum but I dont want to "bounce" down the
street. I want to feel the bass on Rush songs and really hear the kick
on "When the Levee Breaks". So that being said would I be better off
with a single 10, dual 10's, a 12? Sealed enclosure or ported? Dual
voice coil or single? My budget is roughly 400-500 dollars
w/enclosure. I am not against buying from ebay either. Thanks for
reading and fire away




I have a Shiva Mark IV 12", in a 1.25 sealed box in my 96 Explorer
Complimented by some Alpine SPR-176A's in the front, and Cadence 5.25
components for rear fill. They blend nicely...
I love this puppy!
Bass on Tap
Thick- and Heavy, with a nice thud-

Current Base setting, on 1
HU Sub setting, on 1
Gain on 300 watt Planet Audio Amp- minimum
HU Alpine CDA-7892 Faded 3 to the front-
Alpine CD changer, in center console.

http://www.adireaudio.com/
125.00 shipped...
Not a bad buy if you're on a budget

Listen to Fusion Jazz as well...
Spyro Gyra-
YellowJackets..
Ben Tankard..
Kirk Whalum..
Jeff Lorber..
etc..
Jeff

"MZ" wrote in message
...
Honestly, it doesn't matter. The performance of the sub in the box you
plan
to build/buy is what matters. Box size will vary depending on subwoofer
size, but there's very little inherent sound quality that can be
attributed
to the driver based on the cone size. Larger subs tend to handle more
power
(but not always), be more efficient (but not always), and require larger
box
sizes (but not always).

What *does* determine enclosure size? I mean does anyone *really*
understand what Q is all about, other than being a number to be followed?

What *does* determine enclosure size? I mean does anyone *really*
understand what Q is all about, other than being a number to be followed?

Here's a classic paper (and short too!) out of the j.AES written by
Small...you know, of theile-small fame.

http://mdz.no-ip.org/audio/docs/small2.pdf

(PS - only available for a limited time)