I came upon this on Termpro and was wondering if this is a legit way to tune
an aperiodic box or if the author, "Thunder" is on crack:

"With the box, subs and amp installed into the vehicle play a test tone
through the subs at their "FS"(Low vol. just enough to hear). get your volt
meter. place a 1K ohm resister in series with the + speaker lead.(when you
do this the voltage measurement you are taking is a mirror image of the
impedance.) Place the meter leads to read voltage on the speaker outputs.
(one on + one on -) Tear off a piece of insulation to fit inside the opening
you cut inside the back wall of the box. Install the insulation in the gap
between the box and the new backs you made. screw the new backs to the
box.(NOT PERMINATLY!) ease the trunk down while looking at the meter.
remember the voltage reading. Add more insulation. Ease trunk down, take a
new voltage reading. Keep repeting this till the voltage levels out. once
this happens. Seal the new back to the box and complete the trim work. YOU
ARE DONE TUNING!"

Excuse me for not quite understanding what's going on, but is this to say
that the goal here is to have the voltage reading remain unchanged whether
the trunk is open or closed?

When I made my box I threw in an inch or so of figerglass insulation and it
sounded fine so I never bothered to mess around with it. But just for the
heck of it I was thinking of trying this method just to see what affect it
will have on the sound output.

Tony


--
2001 Nissan Maxima SE Anniversary Edition
Eclipse CD8454 Head Unit, Phoenix Gold ZX475ti, ZX450 and ZX500 Amplifiers,
Phoenix Gold EQ-232 30-Band EQ, Dynaudio System 360 Tri-Amped In Front and
Focal 130HCs For Rear Fill, 2 Soundstream EXACT10s In Aperiodic Enclosure

2001 Chevy S10 ZR2
Pioneer DEH-P9600MP (Just gettin' started)