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#1
Posted to rec.audio.car
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The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout
Might want to take a look at this:
http://www.soundstream.com/images/ma...ST6.9_shot.pdf finally, an article covering something other than subs or amps |
#2
Posted to rec.audio.car
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The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout
On Mar 19, 2:44 pm, "Mariachi" wrote:
Might want to take a look at this:http://www.soundstream.com/images/ma...ST6.9_shot.pdf finally, an article covering something other than subs or amps I'm in the marked for 6x9 speakers. Should I follow the advice of this article and find a pair of Soundstreams? The Boston Acoustics 797 speakers in my car(s) sounded very good, until the foam surround rotted out in eight or nine years. This has happened twice. I suppose I'm unlikely to be driving a 1970s car with 6x9s in another eight or nine years, but the 797s are no longer available anyway--I'd have to look at their SL or SX line. The 6x9s need to provide all the bass, and a fair proportion of midrange/high. The door speakers are probably too low, and they're wired in parallel to the old Cobalt amp and never seem to be very noticeable over the sound from the back (inefficient?). It's an old Trans Am, so there's not much installation creativity going to happen-- just want to drop the speakers in and go driving. Thanks for any input.... |
#4
Posted to rec.audio.car
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The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout
On Apr 30, 5:43 pm, Mariachi wrote:
I would never go by an article to go buy something... but maybe as a guideline on what to check out. Check out a couple 6x9s that sound interesting to you and go what sounds good to you... in the end, it only matters on what sounds good to you. I usually stay away from 6x9s that have lower than a 93 dB sensitivity. I don't want to have to put 50 Watts in my speaker just to hear the darn thing. I'm not sure how easy it is to get an idea of a car speaker's sound without it actually being in the car. A '78 Trans Am is an unusual shape with sloping curved backglass right over the rear deck. I spent quite some time auditing speakers for my home system, but how to really audition car speakers? Specs for car speakers aren't wholly useful either. At least I will stay away from the speakers the article describes as "forward". I find myself running one or two notches back on the treble anyway. |
#5
Posted to rec.audio.car
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The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout
Can someone please explain what the 2 ohm speakers/components are all
about? Since I'll be adding an amp, I was looking into replacementspeakers for my old JBL-GTO's (6x9, 35Wrms, 105peak, only the bass remains, the mid-highs have been replaced by new 8 ohm tweeters). I found that Infinity features 2 ohm speakers/components now (sounds great for better usage of available power and more headroom). They claim to be 2 ohm and then they claim they can be driven by a regular HU. Sounds like a contradiction in terms... (Yes I do know a speaker has a reactive side, not just a resistive value...but many HU get hot as it is with the supposedly 'more-than-4- ohm-speakers', so what are they trying to accomplish???) |
#6
Posted to rec.audio.car
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The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout
nothing fancy about them, just a different impedence to get more power out of your amp as you mentioned. I don't know any head unit that is stable to 2 ohms/channel, so I wouldn't put any of those speakers on one. sure they are reactive, but I still wouldn't. -- KU40 |
#7
Posted to rec.audio.car
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The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout
On May 7, 10:21 am, KU40
wrote: nothing fancy about them, just a different impedence to get more power out of your amp as you mentioned. I don't know any head unit that is stable to 2 ohms/channel, so I wouldn't put any of those speakers on one. sure they are reactive, but I still wouldn't. -- KU40 yeah, most head units are only meant for 4 ohm speakers because of various factors including the heat dissipation limit from the head unit itself. If you use a 2 ohm speaker on a head unit, you are drawing more power for the speaker and at the same time more power dissipates from the head unit itself. If you have too much heat, ka boom! You short a connection out or you create an open circuit somewhere in the head unit, which both are bad... There goes your head unit and your warranty will not cover it because of improper installation. |
#8
Posted to rec.audio.car
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The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout
On May 7, 9:02 pm, Mariachi wrote:
On May 7, 10:21 am, KU40 wrote: nothing fancy about them, just a different impedence to get more power out of your amp as you mentioned. I don't know any head unit that is stable to 2 ohms/channel, so I wouldn't put any of those speakers on one. sure they are reactive, but I still wouldn't. -- KU40 yeah, most head units are only meant for 4 ohm speakers because of various factors including the heat dissipation limit from the head unit itself. If you use a 2 ohm speaker on a head unit, you are drawing more power for the speaker and at the same time more power dissipates from the head unit itself. If you have too much heat, ka boom! You short a connection out or you create an open circuit somewhere in the head unit, which both are bad... There goes your head unit and your warranty will not cover it because of improper installation. If it were me... I would buy the MegaVoxes. Cheap price but a lot of clear sound... but you most definitely need an amp for those things. I wonder what they sound like with 20 Watts per speaker. Probably very little sound. |
#9
Posted to rec.audio.car
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The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout
2ohm is a scame....
its just a different measurement of the same power.lol its like 4quarts vs 1gallon.lol 4 is bigger than 1. but its =. the best 6x9 ever made. jvc, 6x9. 120rms. 92s/n. 3way. 27-23hz. but top kenwoods are close. |
#10
Posted to rec.audio.car
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The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout
On May 12, 1:29 pm, I. Care wrote:
In article , says... 2ohm is a scame.... its just a different measurement of the same power.lol its like 4quarts vs 1gallon.lol 4 is bigger than 1. but its =. the best 6x9 ever made. jvc, 6x9. 120rms. 92s/n. 3way. 27-23hz. but top kenwoods are close. Yeah the same old Bob Wald. Doesn't even have a clue. 2ohm is not a measurement of power it is a measurement of impedance. Speakers don't have s/n, Signal-to-noise, they have a sensitivity measured in db. So 92db sensitivity is the spl at 1w input @ 1 meter. What kind of speakers have a frequency response of 27-23hz? I might believe 27hz - 23khz but to be meaningful you also need to know at what distortion level that measurement was made. Go back in your cave Bob. -- I. Care Address fake until the SPAM goes away ;-} The only reason for a different impedance speaker (2, 3, 4, or 8 ohm) is for proper impedance matching to the amplifier. The better impedance matching, the more power the speaker can get. If your amplifier can output the most power with a 4 ohm speaker, a 2 ohm speaker would actually be worse. But if your amplifier matches best with a 2 ohm speaker, your amplifier will proportion more power to the 2 ohm speaker than to a 4 ohm speaker. A lot of separate car amplifiers output better with a 2 ohm speaker. That is why you see 125Wx2 at 4 ohms... and 170Wx@ at 2 Ohms. If you don't know electronics and the concept of impedance matching.. you will not understand the concept and purpose of different impedance speakers. The sensitivity of a speaker is basically... sensitivity measured in db. So 92db sensitivity is the spl at 1w input @ 1 meter. |
#11
Posted to rec.audio.car
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The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout
On May 12, 11:27 pm, I. Care wrote:
In article .com, says... If you don't know electronics and the concept of impedance matching.. you will not understand the concept and purpose of different impedance speakers. The sensitivity of a speaker is basically... Since it appears you responded to my comments I will respond to yours. What makes you think I don't understand electronics and impedance? Was anything I posted incorrect? Does 34+ years in a complex electronics trade qualify me to talk about electronics? That includes an electronics calibration laboratory and 15 years as a supervisor at the facility. In addition I competed in IASCA for a couple of years. -- I. Care Address fake until the SPAM goes away ;-} dude... did i say you were incorrect? For all i know you probably know a lot more than I do. I was elaborating on what you said and was discrediting Bob Wald for what he had said. When I said, "If you don't know electronics"... I meant you as in general to all people who don't know electronics. |
#12
Posted to rec.audio.car
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The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout
well i my not know electronics but i know you cant magicly wire a amp to
get double the power. with no more draw from your battery.lol! |
#13
Posted to rec.audio.car
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The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout
On May 12, 11:53 pm, I. Care wrote:
In article . com, says... On May 12, 11:27 pm, I. Care wrote: In article .com, says... If you don't know electronics and the concept of impedance matching.. you will not understand the concept and purpose of different impedance speakers. The sensitivity of a speaker is basically... Since it appears you responded to my comments I will respond to yours. What makes you think I don't understand electronics and impedance? Was anything I posted incorrect? Does 34+ years in a complex electronics trade qualify me to talk about electronics? That includes an electronics calibration laboratory and 15 years as a supervisor at the facility. In addition I competed in IASCA for a couple of years. -- I. Care Address fake until the SPAM goes away ;-} dude... did i say you were incorrect? For all i know you probably know a lot more than I do. I was elaborating on what you said and was discrediting Bob Wald for what he had said. When I said, "If you don't know electronics"... I meant you as in general to all people who don't know electronics. Thank you for the explanation. When you apparently responded/commented on my post without mentioning any other persons name or post I apparently misunderstood it to be specifically directed at me. -- I. Care Address fake until the SPAM goes away ;-} My bad for not explaining it. |
#14
Posted to rec.audio.car
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The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout
On May 12, 11:44 pm, (bob wald) wrote:
well i my not know electronics exactly... |
#15
Posted to rec.audio.car
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The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout
my= may. i'm on a wireless keyboard. sometimes it misses a letter..sorry
you cant figure out a 3letter word.with 1 letter missing.lol n you think you can wire a car?lol i dout you are able to jump start a car even...lol |
#16
Posted to rec.audio.car
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The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout
A T/A? Sweet old school, I did a lot of those. What I always looked for is a 6X9 that was coax, because the smaller the tweeter part the more bass it made. You had to listen to them of course that was just a vague rule. It depends on the power you will use like said above, around 40w rms speaker would tend to be more efficient and work better on deck power. I like infinity but there are others. So I look for the best bass and mid bass when I compare and ignore the tweeter, except I don't want a loud tweeter or you will hear it too much in front. A higher pitch sounding tweeter that is not loud/bright worked best for me, maybe soft but precise? Not sure how to explain. The front is problematic, I ran 4" low and 1" dome above the crank handle. I used 8 ohm home 1" soft domes often, sounded great with the right cap (smaller one) and gave good staging. What you really need is to get 4 IB capable 10" subs and put two between the 6x9, and two more into the back seat. You should have just enough room to fit two amps between the 10s into the seat. You don't need that much power with free air 10", run them at 2 ohms on a quality 80-125wrms/ch amp and that is plenty, it pounds. That car is a bass horn I swear, sometimes I wish I still had one. 30hz was no problem, even with old paper pyramid subs they hammered. -- s3sqguy |
#17
Posted to rec.audio.car
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The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout
On May 18, 4:00 pm, s3sqguy s3sqguy.2qs...@no-
mx.forum.carstereos.org wrote: A T/A? Sweet old school, I did a lot of those. What I always looked for is a6X9that was coax, because the smaller the tweeter part the more bass it made. You had to listen to them of course that was just a vague rule. It depends on the power you will use like said above, around 40w rms speaker would tend to be more efficient and work better on deck power. I like infinity but there are others. I wound up getting Boston Acoustics SL95s. More than I wanted to spend, but they sound pretty good. The real reason was the small magnet size, so the mounting depth is less than any other speakers whose specs I looked up. The spare tire no longer squeezes against the speaker magnet. Yay! So I look for the best bass and mid bass when I compare and ignore the tweeter, except I don't want a loud tweeter or you will hear it too much in front. A higher pitch sounding tweeter that is not loud/bright worked best for me, maybe soft but precise? Not sure how to explain. The front is problematic, I ran 4" low and 1" dome above the crank handle. I used 8 ohm home 1" soft domes often, sounded great with the right cap (smaller one) and gave good staging. The SL95s have a nice smooth treble. Well, I also have a different deck (Blaupunkt). With the Clarion deck and Boston Acoustics 797, I always had to run a notch or two down on treble. Not with the current setup, for most music. What you really need is to get 4 IB capable 10" subs and put two between the6x9, and two more into the back seat. You should have just enough room to fit two amps between the 10s into the seat. Eh, but where would I put the T-tops? I always put them in the back seat. I went through the subwoofer thing with my '69 Firebird convertible. Conclusion: subwoofers in trunks of convertibles don't do much. Never mind that it was a Pyle Driver I was using. You don't need that much power with free air 10", run them at 2 ohms on a quality 80-125wrms/ch amp and that is plenty, it pounds. That car is a bass horn I swear, sometimes I wish I still had one. 30hz was no problem, even with old paper pyramid subs they hammered. I agree. The 6x9s give me more or less enough bass. Most of my listening in the car is '70s-'80s pop. Some classical. Doesn't really need to pound, but getting a bit of a buzz in the chest is okay from time to time. .....Ed |
#18
Posted to rec.audio.car
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The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout
On Jun 14, 6:41 pm, wrote:
On May 18, 4:00 pm, s3sqguy s3sqguy.2qs...@no- mx.forum.carstereos.org wrote: A T/A? Sweet old school, I did a lot of those. What I always looked for is a6X9that was coax, because the smaller the tweeter part the more bass it made. You had to listen to them of course that was just a vague rule. It depends on the power you will use like said above, around 40w rms speaker would tend to be more efficient and work better on deck power. I like infinity but there are others. I wound up getting Boston Acoustics SL95s. More than I wanted to spend, but they sound pretty good. The real reason was the small magnet size, so the mounting depth is less than any other speakers whose specs I looked up. The spare tire no longer squeezes against the speaker magnet. Yay! So I look for the best bass and mid bass when I compare and ignore the tweeter, except I don't want a loud tweeter or you will hear it too much in front. A higher pitch sounding tweeter that is not loud/bright worked best for me, maybe soft but precise? Not sure how to explain. The front is problematic, I ran 4" low and 1" dome above the crank handle. I used 8 ohm home 1" soft domes often, sounded great with the right cap (smaller one) and gave good staging. The SL95s have a nice smooth treble. Well, I also have a different deck (Blaupunkt). With the Clarion deck and Boston Acoustics 797, I always had to run a notch or two down on treble. Not with the current setup, for most music. What you really need is to get 4 IB capable 10" subs and put two between the6x9, and two more into the back seat. You should have just enough room to fit two amps between the 10s into the seat. Eh, but where would I put the T-tops? I always put them in the back seat. I went through the subwoofer thing with my '69 Firebird convertible. Conclusion: subwoofers in trunks of convertibles don't do much. Never mind that it was a Pyle Driver I was using. You don't need that much power with free air 10", run them at 2 ohms on a quality 80-125wrms/ch amp and that is plenty, it pounds. That car is a bass horn I swear, sometimes I wish I still had one. 30hz was no problem, even with old paper pyramid subs they hammered. I agree. The 6x9s give me more or less enough bass. Most of my listening in the car is '70s-'80s pop. Some classical. Doesn't really need to pound, but getting a bit of a buzz in the chest is okay from time to time. ....Ed There are some 6x9's that are specially made to act as subwoofers. You just got to know which ones to get. For me, I never was interested in having massive heavy deafening bass that these kids brag about these days. I just wanted just enough bass to give a bassy feeling to the music and enough to make your mirrors shake a little bit. I have to admit that without bass some music just sucks. I happen to think that hard rock and heavy metal require a decent amount of bass but not overpowering bass. On the other hand, heavy accurate pounding bass is pretty much a necessity with techno, rap, dance, and electronica. Classical and soft rock can do with very little bass. Since I like hard rock, alternative rock, electronica, and heavy metal the best; I could mange with just a good set of 6x9's with an amplifier, no subwoofer really needed. My 6x9's pump out a lot of bass just with the power from the deck; so much bass that kids think I have a subwoofer inside. When I tell them I don't have one, they don't believe it at first until i show them it's mostly my 6x9's that are producing the bass. I can pump each 6x9 to 100 Watts, so 200 Watts total. Those things can make you go deaf if you're not careful. The retail price on them are about 150 dollars, but I got them over on ebay for 50 dollars. |
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