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Mariachi Mariachi is offline
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Default The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout

Might want to take a look at this:
http://www.soundstream.com/images/ma...ST6.9_shot.pdf

finally, an article covering something other than subs or amps

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Default The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout

On Mar 19, 2:44 pm, "Mariachi" wrote:
Might want to take a look at this:http://www.soundstream.com/images/ma...ST6.9_shot.pdf

finally, an article covering something other than subs or amps


I'm in the marked for 6x9 speakers. Should I follow the advice of this
article and find a pair of Soundstreams?

The Boston Acoustics 797 speakers in my car(s) sounded very good,
until the foam surround rotted out in eight or nine years. This has
happened twice. I suppose I'm unlikely to be driving a 1970s car with
6x9s in another eight or nine years, but the 797s are no longer
available anyway--I'd have to look at their SL or SX line.

The 6x9s need to provide all the bass, and a fair proportion of
midrange/high. The door speakers are probably too low, and they're
wired in parallel to the old Cobalt amp and never seem to be very
noticeable over the sound from the back (inefficient?). It's an old
Trans Am, so there's not much installation creativity going to happen--
just want to drop the speakers in and go driving.

Thanks for any input....

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Mariachi Mariachi is offline
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Default The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout

I would never go by an article to go buy something... but maybe as a
guideline on what to check out. Check out a couple 6x9s that sound
interesting to you and go what sounds good to you... in the end, it
only matters on what sounds good to you. I usually stay away from
6x9s that have lower than a 93 dB sensitivity. I don't want to have
to put 50 Watts in my speaker just to hear the darn thing.

wrote:
On Mar 19, 2:44 pm, "Mariachi" wrote:
Might want to take a look at this:
http://www.soundstream.com/images/ma...ST6.9_shot.pdf

finally, an article covering something other than subs or amps


I'm in the marked for 6x9 speakers. Should I follow the advice of this
article and find a pair of Soundstreams?

The Boston Acoustics 797 speakers in my car(s) sounded very good,
until the foam surround rotted out in eight or nine years. This has
happened twice. I suppose I'm unlikely to be driving a 1970s car with
6x9s in another eight or nine years, but the 797s are no longer
available anyway--I'd have to look at their SL or SX line.

The 6x9s need to provide all the bass, and a fair proportion of
midrange/high. The door speakers are probably too low, and they're
wired in parallel to the old Cobalt amp and never seem to be very
noticeable over the sound from the back (inefficient?). It's an old
Trans Am, so there's not much installation creativity going to happen--
just want to drop the speakers in and go driving.

Thanks for any input....


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[email protected] Ed.Toronto@gmail.com is offline
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Default The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout

On Apr 30, 5:43 pm, Mariachi wrote:
I would never go by an article to go buy something... but maybe as a
guideline on what to check out. Check out a couple 6x9s that sound
interesting to you and go what sounds good to you... in the end, it
only matters on what sounds good to you. I usually stay away from
6x9s that have lower than a 93 dB sensitivity. I don't want to have
to put 50 Watts in my speaker just to hear the darn thing.


I'm not sure how easy it is to get an idea of a car speaker's sound
without it actually being in the car. A '78 Trans Am is an unusual
shape with sloping curved backglass right over the rear deck. I spent
quite some time auditing speakers for my home system, but how to
really audition car speakers?

Specs for car speakers aren't wholly useful either.

At least I will stay away from the speakers the article describes as
"forward". I find myself running one or two notches back on the
treble anyway.

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[email protected] ricpaulhammink@hotmail.com is offline
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Default The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout

Can someone please explain what the 2 ohm speakers/components are all
about?

Since I'll be adding an amp, I was looking into replacementspeakers
for my old JBL-GTO's (6x9, 35Wrms, 105peak, only the bass remains, the
mid-highs have been replaced by new 8 ohm tweeters). I found that
Infinity features 2 ohm speakers/components now (sounds great for
better usage of available power and more headroom).

They claim to be 2 ohm and then they claim they can be driven by a
regular HU. Sounds like a contradiction in terms...

(Yes I do know a speaker has a reactive side, not just a resistive
value...but many HU get hot as it is with the supposedly 'more-than-4-
ohm-speakers', so what are they trying to accomplish???)



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Default The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout


nothing fancy about them, just a different impedence to get more power
out of your amp as you mentioned. I don't know any head unit that is
stable to 2 ohms/channel, so I wouldn't put any of those speakers on
one. sure they are reactive, but I still wouldn't.


--
KU40
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Mariachi Mariachi is offline
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Default The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout

On May 7, 10:21 am, KU40
wrote:
nothing fancy about them, just a different impedence to get more power
out of your amp as you mentioned. I don't know any head unit that is
stable to 2 ohms/channel, so I wouldn't put any of those speakers on
one. sure they are reactive, but I still wouldn't.

--
KU40


yeah, most head units are only meant for 4 ohm speakers because of
various factors including the heat dissipation limit from the head
unit itself. If you use a 2 ohm speaker on a head unit, you are
drawing more power for the speaker and at the same time more power
dissipates from the head unit itself. If you have too much heat, ka
boom! You short a connection out or you create an open circuit
somewhere in the head unit, which both are bad... There goes your
head unit and your warranty will not cover it because of improper
installation.

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Mariachi Mariachi is offline
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Default The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout

On May 7, 9:02 pm, Mariachi wrote:
On May 7, 10:21 am, KU40
wrote:

nothing fancy about them, just a different impedence to get more power
out of your amp as you mentioned. I don't know any head unit that is
stable to 2 ohms/channel, so I wouldn't put any of those speakers on
one. sure they are reactive, but I still wouldn't.


--
KU40


yeah, most head units are only meant for 4 ohm speakers because of
various factors including the heat dissipation limit from the head
unit itself. If you use a 2 ohm speaker on a head unit, you are
drawing more power for the speaker and at the same time more power
dissipates from the head unit itself. If you have too much heat, ka
boom! You short a connection out or you create an open circuit
somewhere in the head unit, which both are bad... There goes your
head unit and your warranty will not cover it because of improper
installation.


If it were me... I would buy the MegaVoxes. Cheap price but a lot of
clear sound... but you most definitely need an amp for those things.
I wonder what they sound like with 20 Watts per speaker. Probably
very little sound.

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bob wald bob wald is offline
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Default The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout

2ohm is a scame....
its just a different measurement of the same power.lol
its like 4quarts vs 1gallon.lol
4 is bigger than 1. but its =.
the best 6x9 ever made. jvc, 6x9. 120rms. 92s/n. 3way. 27-23hz.
but top kenwoods are close.

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Mariachi Mariachi is offline
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Default The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout

On May 12, 1:29 pm, I. Care wrote:
In article ,
says... 2ohm is a scame....
its just a different measurement of the same power.lol
its like 4quarts vs 1gallon.lol
4 is bigger than 1. but its =.
the best 6x9 ever made. jvc, 6x9. 120rms. 92s/n. 3way. 27-23hz.
but top kenwoods are close.


Yeah the same old Bob Wald. Doesn't even have a clue.

2ohm is not a measurement of power it is a measurement of impedance.

Speakers don't have s/n, Signal-to-noise, they have a sensitivity
measured in db. So 92db sensitivity is the spl at 1w input @ 1 meter.


What kind of speakers have a frequency response of 27-23hz? I might
believe 27hz - 23khz but to be meaningful you also need to know at what
distortion level that measurement was made.

Go back in your cave Bob.
--
I. Care
Address fake until the SPAM goes away ;-}


The only reason for a different impedance speaker (2, 3, 4, or 8 ohm)
is for proper impedance matching to the amplifier. The better
impedance matching, the more power the speaker can get. If your
amplifier can output the most power with a 4 ohm speaker, a 2 ohm
speaker would actually be worse. But if your amplifier matches best
with a 2 ohm speaker, your amplifier will proportion more power to the
2 ohm speaker than to a 4 ohm speaker. A lot of separate car
amplifiers output better with a 2 ohm speaker. That is why you see
125Wx2 at 4 ohms... and 170Wx@ at 2 Ohms. If you don't know
electronics and the concept of impedance matching.. you will not
understand the concept and purpose of different impedance speakers.
The sensitivity of a speaker is basically...

sensitivity measured in db. So 92db sensitivity is the spl at 1w input @ 1 meter.





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Default The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout

On May 12, 11:27 pm, I. Care wrote:
In article .com,
says... If you don't know
electronics and the concept of impedance matching.. you will not
understand the concept and purpose of different impedance speakers.
The sensitivity of a speaker is basically...


Since it appears you responded to my comments I will respond to yours.

What makes you think I don't understand electronics and impedance?

Was anything I posted incorrect?

Does 34+ years in a complex electronics trade qualify me to talk about
electronics? That includes an electronics calibration laboratory and 15
years as a supervisor at the facility.

In addition I competed in IASCA for a couple of years.
--
I. Care
Address fake until the SPAM goes away ;-}


dude... did i say you were incorrect? For all i know you probably
know a lot more than I do. I was elaborating on what you said and was
discrediting Bob Wald for what he had said. When I said, "If you
don't know electronics"... I meant you as in general to all people who
don't know electronics.

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bob wald bob wald is offline
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Default The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout

well i my not know electronics but i know you cant magicly wire a amp to
get double the power. with no more draw from your battery.lol!

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Mariachi Mariachi is offline
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Default The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout

On May 12, 11:53 pm, I. Care wrote:
In article . com,
says...

On May 12, 11:27 pm, I. Care wrote:
In article .com,
says... If you don't know
electronics and the concept of impedance matching.. you will not
understand the concept and purpose of different impedance speakers.
The sensitivity of a speaker is basically...


Since it appears you responded to my comments I will respond to yours.


What makes you think I don't understand electronics and impedance?


Was anything I posted incorrect?


Does 34+ years in a complex electronics trade qualify me to talk about
electronics? That includes an electronics calibration laboratory and 15
years as a supervisor at the facility.


In addition I competed in IASCA for a couple of years.
--
I. Care
Address fake until the SPAM goes away ;-}


dude... did i say you were incorrect? For all i know you probably
know a lot more than I do. I was elaborating on what you said and was
discrediting Bob Wald for what he had said. When I said, "If you
don't know electronics"... I meant you as in general to all people who
don't know electronics.


Thank you for the explanation. When you apparently responded/commented
on my post without mentioning any other persons name or post I
apparently misunderstood it to be specifically directed at me.
--
I. Care
Address fake until the SPAM goes away ;-}


My bad for not explaining it.

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Default The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout

On May 12, 11:44 pm, (bob wald) wrote:
well i my not know electronics


exactly...

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bob wald bob wald is offline
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Default The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout

my= may. i'm on a wireless keyboard. sometimes it misses a letter..sorry
you cant figure out a 3letter word.with 1 letter missing.lol
n you think you can wire a car?lol
i dout you are able to jump start a car even...lol



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Default The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout


A T/A? Sweet old school, I did a lot of those. What I always looked for
is a 6X9 that was coax, because the smaller the tweeter part the more
bass it made. You had to listen to them of course that was just a vague
rule. It depends on the power you will use like said above, around 40w
rms speaker would tend to be more efficient and work better on deck
power. I like infinity but there are others.
So I look for the best bass and mid bass when I compare and ignore the
tweeter, except I don't want a loud tweeter or you will hear it too
much in front. A higher pitch sounding tweeter that is not loud/bright
worked best for me, maybe soft but precise? Not sure how to explain.
The front is problematic, I ran 4" low and 1" dome above the crank
handle. I used 8 ohm home 1" soft domes often, sounded great with the
right cap (smaller one) and gave good staging.

What you really need is to get 4 IB capable 10" subs and put two
between the 6x9, and two more into the back seat. You should have just
enough room to fit two amps between the 10s into the seat. You don't
need that much power with free air 10", run them at 2 ohms on a quality
80-125wrms/ch amp and that is plenty, it pounds. That car is a bass horn
I swear, sometimes I wish I still had one. 30hz was no problem, even
with old paper pyramid subs they hammered.


--
s3sqguy
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Default The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout

On May 18, 4:00 pm, s3sqguy s3sqguy.2qs...@no-
mx.forum.carstereos.org wrote:
A T/A? Sweet old school, I did a lot of those. What I always looked for
is a6X9that was coax, because the smaller the tweeter part the more
bass it made. You had to listen to them of course that was just a vague
rule. It depends on the power you will use like said above, around 40w
rms speaker would tend to be more efficient and work better on deck
power. I like infinity but there are others.


I wound up getting Boston Acoustics SL95s. More than I wanted to
spend, but they sound pretty good. The real reason was the small
magnet size, so the mounting depth is less than any other speakers
whose specs I looked up.

The spare tire no longer squeezes against the speaker magnet. Yay!

So I look for the best bass and mid bass when I compare and ignore the
tweeter, except I don't want a loud tweeter or you will hear it too
much in front. A higher pitch sounding tweeter that is not loud/bright
worked best for me, maybe soft but precise? Not sure how to explain.
The front is problematic, I ran 4" low and 1" dome above the crank
handle. I used 8 ohm home 1" soft domes often, sounded great with the
right cap (smaller one) and gave good staging.


The SL95s have a nice smooth treble. Well, I also have a different
deck (Blaupunkt). With the Clarion deck and Boston Acoustics 797, I
always had to run a notch or two down on treble. Not with the current
setup, for most music.

What you really need is to get 4 IB capable 10" subs and put two
between the6x9, and two more into the back seat. You should have just
enough room to fit two amps between the 10s into the seat.


Eh, but where would I put the T-tops? I always put them in the back
seat.

I went through the subwoofer thing with my '69 Firebird convertible.
Conclusion: subwoofers in trunks of convertibles don't do much.
Never mind that it was a Pyle Driver I was using.

You don't
need that much power with free air 10", run them at 2 ohms on a quality
80-125wrms/ch amp and that is plenty, it pounds. That car is a bass horn
I swear, sometimes I wish I still had one. 30hz was no problem, even
with old paper pyramid subs they hammered.


I agree. The 6x9s give me more or less enough bass. Most of my
listening in the car is '70s-'80s pop. Some classical. Doesn't
really need to pound, but getting a bit of a buzz in the chest is okay
from time to time.

.....Ed

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Default The Ultimate 6x9 Shootout

On Jun 14, 6:41 pm, wrote:
On May 18, 4:00 pm, s3sqguy s3sqguy.2qs...@no-

mx.forum.carstereos.org wrote:
A T/A? Sweet old school, I did a lot of those. What I always looked for
is a6X9that was coax, because the smaller the tweeter part the more
bass it made. You had to listen to them of course that was just a vague
rule. It depends on the power you will use like said above, around 40w
rms speaker would tend to be more efficient and work better on deck
power. I like infinity but there are others.


I wound up getting Boston Acoustics SL95s. More than I wanted to
spend, but they sound pretty good. The real reason was the small
magnet size, so the mounting depth is less than any other speakers
whose specs I looked up.

The spare tire no longer squeezes against the speaker magnet. Yay!

So I look for the best bass and mid bass when I compare and ignore the
tweeter, except I don't want a loud tweeter or you will hear it too
much in front. A higher pitch sounding tweeter that is not loud/bright
worked best for me, maybe soft but precise? Not sure how to explain.
The front is problematic, I ran 4" low and 1" dome above the crank
handle. I used 8 ohm home 1" soft domes often, sounded great with the
right cap (smaller one) and gave good staging.


The SL95s have a nice smooth treble. Well, I also have a different
deck (Blaupunkt). With the Clarion deck and Boston Acoustics 797, I
always had to run a notch or two down on treble. Not with the current
setup, for most music.

What you really need is to get 4 IB capable 10" subs and put two
between the6x9, and two more into the back seat. You should have just
enough room to fit two amps between the 10s into the seat.


Eh, but where would I put the T-tops? I always put them in the back
seat.

I went through the subwoofer thing with my '69 Firebird convertible.
Conclusion: subwoofers in trunks of convertibles don't do much.
Never mind that it was a Pyle Driver I was using.

You don't
need that much power with free air 10", run them at 2 ohms on a quality
80-125wrms/ch amp and that is plenty, it pounds. That car is a bass horn
I swear, sometimes I wish I still had one. 30hz was no problem, even
with old paper pyramid subs they hammered.


I agree. The 6x9s give me more or less enough bass. Most of my
listening in the car is '70s-'80s pop. Some classical. Doesn't
really need to pound, but getting a bit of a buzz in the chest is okay
from time to time.

....Ed


There are some 6x9's that are specially made to act as subwoofers.
You just got to know which ones to get. For me, I never was
interested in having massive heavy deafening bass that these kids brag
about these days. I just wanted just enough bass to give a bassy
feeling to the music and enough to make your mirrors shake a little
bit. I have to admit that without bass some music just sucks. I
happen to think that hard rock and heavy metal require a decent amount
of bass but not overpowering bass. On the other hand, heavy accurate
pounding bass is pretty much a necessity with techno, rap, dance, and
electronica. Classical and soft rock can do with very little bass.
Since I like hard rock, alternative rock, electronica, and heavy metal
the best; I could mange with just a good set of 6x9's with an
amplifier, no subwoofer really needed. My 6x9's pump out a lot of
bass just with the power from the deck; so much bass that kids think I
have a subwoofer inside. When I tell them I don't have one, they
don't believe it at first until i show them it's mostly my 6x9's that
are producing the bass. I can pump each 6x9 to 100 Watts, so 200
Watts total. Those things can make you go deaf if you're not
careful. The retail price on them are about 150 dollars, but I got
them over on ebay for 50 dollars.

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