[Gary Eickmeier]

"hank alrich" wrote in message
...

Yes, the Beri might be the problem, or it might be revealing a problem
with the rest of the system. In short heh it's not worth getting
electrocuted over. Get out the VOM and start looking for the "why?"
behind it to make sure things are installed and conifured safely.

I think I will see if I can get the 2496 before I look for the ground loop
etc, I think it will not have the connection problems that the 6200 has. I
will then go out from the receiver from 100 Hz on up, with the subwoof freqs
going straight from the sub out of the receiver to the Velodyne. Alternative
plan would be to go full range out of receiver thru Behringer to an
electronic crossover (I already have a Richter Scale) and then to the power
amps and sub.

Gary

[david gourley[_2_]]

"Gary Eickmeier" said...news:ACMfv.132741
:


"hank alrich" wrote in message
...

Yes, the Beri might be the problem, or it might be revealing a problem
with the rest of the system. In short heh it's not worth getting
electrocuted over. Get out the VOM and start looking for the "why?"
behind it to make sure things are installed and conifured safely.

I think I will see if I can get the 2496 before I look for the ground
loop
etc, I think it will not have the connection problems that the 6200 has.
I
will then go out from the receiver from 100 Hz on up, with the subwoof
freqs
going straight from the sub out of the receiver to the Velodyne.
Alternative
plan would be to go full range out of receiver thru Behringer to an
electronic crossover (I already have a Richter Scale) and then to the
power
amps and sub.

Gary




You will still likely have the ground loop problem, and it should be the
highest priority for you to fix it.

david

[hank alrich]

Gary Eickmeier wrote:

"hank alrich" wrote in message
...

Yes, the Beri might be the problem, or it might be revealing a problem
with the rest of the system. In short heh it's not worth getting
electrocuted over. Get out the VOM and start looking for the "why?"
behind it to make sure things are installed and conifured safely.

I think I will see if I can get the 2496 before I look for the ground loop
etc, I think it will not have the connection problems that the 6200 has. I
will then go out from the receiver from 100 Hz on up, with the subwoof freqs
going straight from the sub out of the receiver to the Velodyne. Alternative
plan would be to go full range out of receiver thru Behringer to an
electronic crossover (I already have a Richter Scale) and then to the power
amps and sub.

Gary

Are the receiver outputs balanced? How about the 6200's inputs?

--
shut up and play your guitar * HankAlrich.Com
HankandShaidriMusic.Com
YouTube.Com/WalkinayMusic

[Gary Eickmeier]

"hank alrich" wrote in message
...
Gary Eickmeier wrote:

"hank alrich" wrote in message
...

Yes, the Beri might be the problem, or it might be revealing a problem
with the rest of the system. In short heh it's not worth getting
electrocuted over. Get out the VOM and start looking for the "why?"
behind it to make sure things are installed and conifured safely.

I think I will see if I can get the 2496 before I look for the ground
loop
etc, I think it will not have the connection problems that the 6200 has.
I
will then go out from the receiver from 100 Hz on up, with the subwoof
freqs
going straight from the sub out of the receiver to the Velodyne.
Alternative
plan would be to go full range out of receiver thru Behringer to an
electronic crossover (I already have a Richter Scale) and then to the
power
amps and sub.

Gary

Are the receiver outputs balanced? How about the 6200's inputs?

No, and this is a problem with amateur or home equipment. Everything is RCA
in and out. The 6200 and the 2496 both have balanced XLR in and out, but
they provide for unbalanced use by telling me to bridge pins 1 and 3 (ground
and cold, or negative). Could that be the cause of my ground loop problem,
because I did not do that?

Anyway, I have ordered the exchange of the 6200 for the DEQ2496, and have
begun studying the owners manual. Might have them send the new unit in
advance so that I could have them both here for a day or two, then send the
6200 back if the new one works fine in my system.

This 2496 will be a whole new learning curve for me, so please stick with
me. Probably should start a new thread about it when I start to use it. You
guys were right, it has some amazing capabilities that I hope I can use. I
want to master it for when I get my new speakers in a month or two.

Thanks for your help Hank and all,

Gary

[Ron C[_2_]]

On 5/24/2014 12:15 PM, Gary Eickmeier wrote:
"hank alrich" wrote in message
...
Gary Eickmeier wrote:

"hank alrich" wrote in message
...

Yes, the Beri might be the problem, or it might be revealing a problem
with the rest of the system. In short heh it's not worth getting
electrocuted over. Get out the VOM and start looking for the "why?"
behind it to make sure things are installed and conifured safely.

I think I will see if I can get the 2496 before I look for the ground
loop
etc, I think it will not have the connection problems that the 6200 has.
I
will then go out from the receiver from 100 Hz on up, with the subwoof
freqs
going straight from the sub out of the receiver to the Velodyne.
Alternative
plan would be to go full range out of receiver thru Behringer to an
electronic crossover (I already have a Richter Scale) and then to the
power
amps and sub.

Gary

Are the receiver outputs balanced? How about the 6200's inputs?

No, and this is a problem with amateur or home equipment. Everything is RCA
in and out. The 6200 and the 2496 both have balanced XLR in and out, but
they provide for unbalanced use by telling me to bridge pins 1 and 3 (ground
and cold, or negative). Could that be the cause of my ground loop problem,
because I did not do that?

Anyway, I have ordered the exchange of the 6200 for the DEQ2496, and have
begun studying the owners manual. Might have them send the new unit in
advance so that I could have them both here for a day or two, then send the
6200 back if the new one works fine in my system.

This 2496 will be a whole new learning curve for me, so please stick with
me. Probably should start a new thread about it when I start to use it. You
guys were right, it has some amazing capabilities that I hope I can use. I
want to master it for when I get my new speakers in a month or two.

Thanks for your help Hank and all,

Gary


You might want to check out these adapters:

Hosa Technology GXM133 Signal Converter
Hosa GXF-132 RCA Female to XLR Female

You should also read this tech note:
http://www.rane.com/note110.html

==
Later...
Ron Capik
--

[Scott Dorsey]

Gary Eickmeier wrote:

No, and this is a problem with amateur or home equipment. Everything is RCA
in and out. The 6200 and the 2496 both have balanced XLR in and out, but
they provide for unbalanced use by telling me to bridge pins 1 and 3 (ground
and cold, or negative). Could that be the cause of my ground loop problem,
because I did not do that?

Yes. Follow the directions.
--scott


--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

[Gary Eickmeier]

"Scott Dorsey" wrote in message
...
Gary Eickmeier wrote:

No, and this is a problem with amateur or home equipment. Everything is
RCA
in and out. The 6200 and the 2496 both have balanced XLR in and out, but
they provide for unbalanced use by telling me to bridge pins 1 and 3
(ground
and cold, or negative). Could that be the cause of my ground loop problem,
because I did not do that?

Yes. Follow the directions.
--scott

OK, printing Ron's link and looking up the Hosa connectors.

Gary

[Sean Conolly]

"hank alrich" wrote in message
...
Sean Conolly wrote:

"Gary Eickmeier" wrote in message
...

"Sean Conolly" wrote in message
...
"PStamler" wrote in message

Typically the Behringer would be used in a simpler way. The mixing
board's output would feed the Behringer's input, then the Behringer's
output would go directly to the power amps rather than back to the
mixer.

Yep. K.I.S.S.

Sean

... and I was more than concerned at first with a hum and buzz that it
was
contributing to my system. The solution was a cheater plug to bypass
the
ground pin.

As has been pointed out - this is never a good idea. A simple solution is
to
run everything off the same phase of power, which is easy to test by
running
everything from one outlet. And I do mean *everything* that is
electrically
connected by cables including your signal source.

Yes, the Beri might be the problem, or it might be revealing a problem
with the rest of the system. In short heh it's not worth getting
electrocuted over. Get out the VOM and start looking for the "why?"
behind it to make sure things are installed and conifured safely.

Having seen that Gary had four 20A circuits run to that room, I will bet
money that they were put on diffrerent phases just to spread the load out.
That's what happens when you ask for four times the current than you really
need.

I've had full bands rehearsing in my my music room with toob amps and full
PA on a single 20A circuit.

Gary - get some extension cords, it's a cheap work-around for that problem
before something bad happens.

Sean

[Gary Eickmeier]

"Sean Conolly" wrote in message
...

Having seen that Gary had four 20A circuits run to that room, I will bet
money that they were put on diffrerent phases just to spread the load out.
That's what happens when you ask for four times the current than you
really need.

I've had full bands rehearsing in my my music room with toob amps and full
PA on a single 20A circuit.

Gary - get some extension cords, it's a cheap work-around for that problem
before something bad happens.

Sean

Running my whole system on extension cords is better than having multiple
outlets?

Anyway, when the 2496 arrives I will straighten this all out.

Gary

[Frank Stearns]

"Gary Eickmeier" writes:


"Sean Conolly" wrote in message
...

Having seen that Gary had four 20A circuits run to that room, I will bet
money that they were put on diffrerent phases just to spread the load out.
That's what happens when you ask for four times the current than you
really need.

I've had full bands rehearsing in my my music room with toob amps and full
PA on a single 20A circuit.

Gary - get some extension cords, it's a cheap work-around for that problem
before something bad happens.

Sean

Running my whole system on extension cords is better than having multiple
outlets?

Under some conditions, yes. (And not your whole system, just cording what's
necessary to pull power of the same side of the breaker box.)

Go to your breaker box. Are the four breakers all on the left column or all on the
right column, or are some on one side and some on the other? If you have them on
both sides, you can eliminate one potential (no pun) problem by selecting one side
or the other, then abandoning plugs on the other side. (I'd orient this based on the
biggest source of dynamic peak load, which would typically be the power amplifiers
-- unless you have true class-A amps, and then is doesn't matter so much because
there is no "peak" load -- those guys are drawing full juice all the time.)

If you wanted to, you could start swapping breakers around to get all the audio
circuits on one side. Breakers pop on an off the buss bars pretty easily, but do NOT
attempt this unless you absolutely know what you're doing, and how to redress
everything inside the box once the moves are completed.

All things being equal, perhaps more important than having huge amounts of excess
current for your set-up is the quality of the circuits. A few of the simplest, best
things you can do for home audio power include:

- circuit for audio power is a "home run" to breaker box -- it's one wire to one
outlet, period. There are NO other outlets or switches, no breaks in the line with
wire nuts in a j-box, whatever. Just breaker to wire to one outlet. Nothing more.
(Or, if you do want more outlets, put them in a dual, triple, or quad box right next
to each other.)

- bump up the size of the wire. So, for example, in a 20A circuit, use 10 gauge
instead of the code-required 12 (Doesn't affect code if you go up in capacity). You
at least lower the R in the R-C-L circuit that is your power feed, and that
helps several things. And, make sure it's good wire! (Been talk lately of counterfit
wire in the CAT-x arena (Cu clad Al). Haven't heard of building wire like this, but
who knows.)

- While the wire size typically dictates this, always make sure the screw terminals
of the outlet are used (avoid the "stabber" poke-in terminals). Periodically kill
the power, pull out the outlets, take a screw driver and make sure the terminals are
still very tight. If over time you run across a screw that seems to keep coming
loose, replace the outlet.

- use higher quality plugs that use good metal with good mechanics on how the
contacts wipe the prongs. Might be overkill, but you could use medical-grade
power plugs if it makes you feel better. I would not, however, get involved with
stupidly over-priced "audiophile" AC outlets. (Might be such a thing, dunno. But
don't bother. Medical grade should be more than adequate.)

- you can also help your audio indirectly by putting noisy loads (such as your
computer equipment, projector, phone chargers, etc) on its own home run, and putting
the breaker(s) for those loads on the buss bar opposide your audio loads. That way,
you're shunting a lot of that switching ps noise all the way back to the transformer
in the street. By that time, it's too feeble to cause many problems.

If equipment power supplies were all perfect (or at least well-built), the above
would not matter all that much. But all too many manufacturers cheap-out when it
comes to the PS. You can live that that if your power is really good, not so much so
otherwise. That's why the techniques above can improve chances for a clean system.

Frank
Mobile Audio


--

[hank alrich]

Gary Eickmeier wrote:

This 2496 will be a whole new learning curve for me, so please stick with
me. Probably should start a new thread about it when I start to use it. You
guys were right, it has some amazing capabilities that I hope I can use. I
want to master it for when I get my new speakers in a month or two.

The DEQ2496 will do many things simultaneously. Proceed cautiously,
because for starters there is one hellaciously powerful parametric EQ in
there, badass enough to get you into big trouble quickly.

--
shut up and play your guitar * HankAlrich.Com
HankandShaidriMusic.Com
YouTube.Com/WalkinayMusic

[Gary Eickmeier]

"hank alrich" wrote in message
...

The DEQ2496 will do many things simultaneously. Proceed cautiously,
because for starters there is one hellaciously powerful parametric EQ in
there, badass enough to get you into big trouble quickly.

Yes, will do. I try to always start from the ground up, known to unknown, so
that I might understand what each change has done and can go back. I am
trying to get a grip on the frequency response curve itself right now -
which one do we want, back at the listening position? I don't think it is
going to be "flat" as such, but is there a known ideal room curve for EQing
a system? If there is some agreement on this base question, then I know I
will be able to achieve it with the 2496.

Gary

[hank alrich]

None wrote:

"Frank Stearns" wrote in message
...
If you wanted to, you could start swapping breakers around to get
all the audio
circuits on one side.

This is probably not a good thing to recommend to someone who's been
responding to noise issued by lifting power grounds.

Good call.

"If you wanted to" - a key phrase, and one would hope to Gawd Herself
that Gary knows better than to do this without the assistance of someone
who knows what's what about it.

If he began this phase (heh) of his latest audio journey by ignoring the
instructions for inserting a balanced I/O device into an unbalanced
signal chain, ****ing around in the breaker box is probably not advised.

--
shut up and play your guitar * HankAlrich.Com
HankandShaidriMusic.Com
YouTube.Com/WalkinayMusic

[Gary Eickmeier]

"hank alrich" wrote in message
...
None wrote:

"Frank Stearns" wrote in message
...
If you wanted to, you could start swapping breakers around to get
all the audio
circuits on one side.

This is probably not a good thing to recommend to someone who's been
responding to noise issued by lifting power grounds.

Good call.

"If you wanted to" - a key phrase, and one would hope to Gawd Herself
that Gary knows better than to do this without the assistance of someone
who knows what's what about it.

If he began this phase (heh) of his latest audio journey by ignoring the
instructions for inserting a balanced I/O device into an unbalanced
signal chain, ****ing around in the breaker box is probably not advised.

If you are talking about the bridging of pins 1 and 3 for the subwoofer out
on the 6200, I have eliminated that problem by not using that output. That
was the only XLR out on the 6200. On the 2496, the only XLRs I will have to
use will be the inputs, which I am meeting with my dealer on Tuesday to get
some bridged adapters made up. They were the ones who advised me that the
bridging is not necessary because pin 1 is already a ground, and I believed
them. Taking no chances next time and doing it exactly as described in the
manual.

Anything to avoid the wrath of None.

Gary

[John Corbett]

On 05/25/2014 07:49 AM, Frank Stearns wrote:
"Gary Eickmeier" writes:


"Sean Conolly" wrote in message
...

Having seen that Gary had four 20A circuits run to that room, I will bet
money that they were put on diffrerent phases just to spread the load out.
That's what happens when you ask for four times the current than you
really need.

I've had full bands rehearsing in my my music room with toob amps and full
PA on a single 20A circuit.

Gary - get some extension cords, it's a cheap work-around for that problem
before something bad happens.

Sean

Running my whole system on extension cords is better than having multiple
outlets?

Under some conditions, yes. (And not your whole system, just cording what's
necessary to pull power of the same side of the breaker box.)

Go to your breaker box. Are the four breakers all on the left column or all on the
right column, or are some on one side and some on the other? If you have them on
both sides, you can eliminate one potential (no pun) problem by selecting one side
or the other, then abandoning plugs on the other side. (I'd orient this based on the
biggest source of dynamic peak load, which would typically be the power amplifiers
-- unless you have true class-A amps, and then is doesn't matter so much because
there is no "peak" load -- those guys are drawing full juice all the time.)

If you wanted to, you could start swapping breakers around to get all the audio
circuits on one side. Breakers pop on an off the buss bars pretty easily, but do NOT
attempt this unless you absolutely know what you're doing, and how to redress
everything inside the box once the moves are completed.


Someone is confused about the layout of circuit breakers and their
connections in a panel.

For a standard residential service (3-wire 120/240-volt single-phase)
there are two hot buses in the service panel, and often the circuit
breakers are arranged in two columns.

But putting a group of circuits on one side of the panel does not
guarantee that the circuits are fed from the same side of the mains,
because the columns do not simply correspond to the buses.

In fact, the bus and breaker slot connections are interleaved so
adjacent breakers in each column are fed from different buses.
That's how a single-pole breaker protects a 120V circuit but a two-pole
breaker protects a 240 V circuit. If panels were constructed with all
the breakers in a column being connected to the same bus then a two-pole
breaker would have zero volts between its two "hot" outputs.

--John Corbett

[John Hardy]

On 5/25/2014 9:18 PM, John Corbett wrote:
On 05/25/2014 07:49 AM, Frank Stearns wrote:
"Gary Eickmeier" writes:


"Sean Conolly" wrote in message
...

Having seen that Gary had four 20A circuits run to that room, I will
bet
money that they were put on diffrerent phases just to spread the
load out.
That's what happens when you ask for four times the current than you
really need.

I've had full bands rehearsing in my my music room with toob amps
and full
PA on a single 20A circuit.

Gary - get some extension cords, it's a cheap work-around for that
problem
before something bad happens.

Sean

Running my whole system on extension cords is better than having
multiple
outlets?

Under some conditions, yes. (And not your whole system, just cording
what's
necessary to pull power of the same side of the breaker box.)

Go to your breaker box. Are the four breakers all on the left column
or all on the
right column, or are some on one side and some on the other? If you
have them on
both sides, you can eliminate one potential (no pun) problem by
selecting one side
or the other, then abandoning plugs on the other side. (I'd orient
this based on the
biggest source of dynamic peak load, which would typically be the
power amplifiers
-- unless you have true class-A amps, and then is doesn't matter so
much because
there is no "peak" load -- those guys are drawing full juice all the
time.)

If you wanted to, you could start swapping breakers around to get all
the audio
circuits on one side. Breakers pop on an off the buss bars pretty
easily, but do NOT
attempt this unless you absolutely know what you're doing, and how to
redress
everything inside the box once the moves are completed.


Someone is confused about the layout of circuit breakers and their
connections in a panel.

For a standard residential service (3-wire 120/240-volt single-phase)
there are two hot buses in the service panel, and often the circuit
breakers are arranged in two columns.

But putting a group of circuits on one side of the panel does not
guarantee that the circuits are fed from the same side of the mains,
because the columns do not simply correspond to the buses.

In fact, the bus and breaker slot connections are interleaved so
adjacent breakers in each column are fed from different buses.
That's how a single-pole breaker protects a 120V circuit but a two-pole
breaker protects a 240 V circuit. If panels were constructed with all
the breakers in a column being connected to the same bus then a two-pole
breaker would have zero volts between its two "hot" outputs.

--John Corbett


I am not an electrician, so my experience is limited. But one bit of
trivia that I know about service panels and breakers: The old
"Pushmatic" breakers and the panels in which they are used DO have
straight buses (not interleaved), with all of the 120V breakers in the
"left" column powered by the same bus (left bus) and one side of the
240V service, the 120V breakers in the "right" column powered by the
other bus (right bus) and the other side of the 240V service. A 240V
breaker fits into both sides/buses/columns at the same time to make the
full 240V connection.

I was quite surprised to learn later in my adult life that there were
service panels with interleaved buses, but my only experience had been
the Pushmatic type in the family home.

Advantages and disadvantages to each approach.

John Hardy

[Frank Stearns]

John Corbett writes:

On 05/25/2014 07:49 AM, Frank Stearns wrote:
"Gary Eickmeier" writes:


"Sean Conolly" wrote in message
...

Having seen that Gary had four 20A circuits run to that room, I will bet
money that they were put on diffrerent phases just to spread the load out.
That's what happens when you ask for four times the current than you
really need.

I've had full bands rehearsing in my my music room with toob amps and full
PA on a single 20A circuit.

Gary - get some extension cords, it's a cheap work-around for that problem
before something bad happens.

Sean

Running my whole system on extension cords is better than having multiple
outlets?

Under some conditions, yes. (And not your whole system, just cording what's
necessary to pull power of the same side of the breaker box.)

Go to your breaker box. Are the four breakers all on the left column or all on the
right column, or are some on one side and some on the other? If you have them on
both sides, you can eliminate one potential (no pun) problem by selecting one side
or the other, then abandoning plugs on the other side. (I'd orient this based on the
biggest source of dynamic peak load, which would typically be the power amplifiers
-- unless you have true class-A amps, and then is doesn't matter so much because
there is no "peak" load -- those guys are drawing full juice all the time.)

If you wanted to, you could start swapping breakers around to get all the audio
circuits on one side. Breakers pop on an off the buss bars pretty easily, but do NOT
attempt this unless you absolutely know what you're doing, and how to redress
everything inside the box once the moves are completed.


Someone is confused about the layout of circuit breakers and their
connections in a panel.

For a standard residential service (3-wire 120/240-volt single-phase)
there are two hot buses in the service panel, and often the circuit
breakers are arranged in two columns.

But putting a group of circuits on one side of the panel does not
guarantee that the circuits are fed from the same side of the mains,
because the columns do not simply correspond to the buses.

In fact, the bus and breaker slot connections are interleaved so
adjacent breakers in each column are fed from different buses.
That's how a single-pole breaker protects a 120V circuit but a two-pole
breaker protects a 240 V circuit. If panels were constructed with all
the breakers in a column being connected to the same bus then a two-pole
breaker would have zero volts between its two "hot" outputs.

John, my bad -- You are absolutely right. Thanks for the correction. (Been too long
since I've been in a service panel!)

Frank
--

[Gary Eickmeier]

"Frank Stearns" wrote in message
acquisition...
John Corbett writes:

On 05/25/2014 07:49 AM, Frank Stearns wrote:
"Gary Eickmeier" writes:


"Sean Conolly" wrote in message
...

Having seen that Gary had four 20A circuits run to that room, I will
bet
money that they were put on diffrerent phases just to spread the load
out.
That's what happens when you ask for four times the current than you
really need.

I've had full bands rehearsing in my my music room with toob amps and
full
PA on a single 20A circuit.

Gary - get some extension cords, it's a cheap work-around for that
problem
before something bad happens.

Sean

Running my whole system on extension cords is better than having
multiple
outlets?

Under some conditions, yes. (And not your whole system, just cording
what's
necessary to pull power of the same side of the breaker box.)

Go to your breaker box. Are the four breakers all on the left column or
all on the
right column, or are some on one side and some on the other? If you have
them on
both sides, you can eliminate one potential (no pun) problem by
selecting one side
or the other, then abandoning plugs on the other side. (I'd orient this
based on the
biggest source of dynamic peak load, which would typically be the power
amplifiers
-- unless you have true class-A amps, and then is doesn't matter so much
because
there is no "peak" load -- those guys are drawing full juice all the
time.)

If you wanted to, you could start swapping breakers around to get all
the audio
circuits on one side. Breakers pop on an off the buss bars pretty
easily, but do NOT
attempt this unless you absolutely know what you're doing, and how to
redress
everything inside the box once the moves are completed.


Someone is confused about the layout of circuit breakers and their
connections in a panel.

For a standard residential service (3-wire 120/240-volt single-phase)
there are two hot buses in the service panel, and often the circuit
breakers are arranged in two columns.

But putting a group of circuits on one side of the panel does not
guarantee that the circuits are fed from the same side of the mains,
because the columns do not simply correspond to the buses.

In fact, the bus and breaker slot connections are interleaved so
adjacent breakers in each column are fed from different buses.
That's how a single-pole breaker protects a 120V circuit but a two-pole
breaker protects a 240 V circuit. If panels were constructed with all
the breakers in a column being connected to the same bus then a two-pole
breaker would have zero volts between its two "hot" outputs.

John, my bad -- You are absolutely right. Thanks for the correction. (Been
too long
since I've been in a service panel!)

Frank

The breakers are all on the right side column at positions 22, 26, 36, and
38. Would it help to tell you it is a type G1 enclosure for the breakers?
The breakers are horizontal levers, which probably means not "Pushmatic."

Gary

[Gary Eickmeier]

"Gary Eickmeier" wrote in message
...

And I have found some proper XLR to female RCA adapters that have pins 1 and
3 already connected, or bridged, at Parts Express.

Side note on bass management: It was a mistake to get the 6200 for the sub
out connection anyway, because the only correct place to do bass management
is in the receiver, for two good reasons. Number 1, the receiver will manage
the bass for all 5 channels and assign the bass for the subwoofer
accordingly. Number 2, the .1 channel - if there is content in the .1
channel for movies or anything, only the receiver can do the decoding
properly. If I sent just the front L and R channels to the equalizer, I
would not get that .1 channel info for the sub at all.

So, hopefully, I will continue to go out from the sub out of the receiver to
the Velodyne, and from the front two channels to the Behringer 2496, and
from the receiver to the center and surround channels still unequalized. The
2496 requires the unbalanced XLR connector be used for input and for output
I can use either the XLR or the phone jack connectors, both unbalanced.

Will probably be a week before I receive the 2496 and send the 6200 back. In
the meantime, I have the Rane connectors info to study and the 2496 manual.

Gary

[Scott Dorsey]

Gary, get this month's JAES and read _Listening Environment Preferences for
Sound Engineers_.

In this case, they measured impulse responses of various control rooms in
multiple dimensions, then used wavefront reconstruction techniques to play
back recorded materials through those simulated control room models through
a large speaker array in an anechoic chamber.

They presented these to a number of mixing engineers and asked them to
evaluate the rooms.

The modelling and reproduction was sufficiently accurate that all but one
of the engineers was able to identify the studio where he most commonly
worked, and one engineer was able to identify it down to two samples.

In any event, what is interesting here is that it permits people to evaluate
(simulated) rooms one after the other without their ears having any chance
to adjust to the room. The discussions about which rooms sounded better
and which sounded worse were very interesting.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

[Scott Dorsey]

Hey! I forgot all about this, but I have had this online for years. I
don't even remember where it came from.

http://www.panix.com/~kludge/Command...XOutXGraph.jpg
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

[Mike Rivers[_2_]]

On 7/15/2014 9:08 AM, Scott Dorsey wrote:
Hey! I forgot all about this, but I have had this online for years. I
don't even remember where it came from.

Gee, real cycles, too. I wonder if Command Records ever did clinics at
Hi Fi dealers. I had my McIntosh A-112 (predecessor to the MC-30)
checked out at a clinic they held at Myer-Emco many years ago. They gave
me a new set of output tubes for it to bring it into factory spec when
it was 30 years old. I got a plot like that for it, only with the
McIntosh logo. .

--
For a good time, visit http://mikeriversaudio.wordpress.com

[Don Pearce[_3_]]

On 15 Jul 2014 09:08:30 -0400, (Scott Dorsey) wrote:

Hey! I forgot all about this, but I have had this online for years. I
don't even remember where it came from.

http://www.panix.com/~kludge/Command...XOutXGraph.jpg
--scott

Just made some that may be more useful. Goes from 10Hz to 100kHz, and
0 to -60dB.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...og%20graph.png

d