Dear,

I bought these ancient AR speakers and they don`t have Red and Black
terminals behind them, just 1 and 2.
Forgive my ignorance, but does red/right correspond to 1 or 2?

thanks

On 25 Jun 2006 11:17:08 -0700, "punkinaro" wrote:

Dear,

I bought these ancient AR speakers and they don`t have Red and Black
terminals behind them, just 1 and 2.
Forgive my ignorance, but does red/right correspond to 1 or 2?

thanks

Doesn't matter. Just connect both the same.

d

--
Pearce Consulting
http://www.pearce.uk.com

Don Pearce wrote:
On 25 Jun 2006 11:17:08 -0700, "punkinaro" wrote:

Dear,

I bought these ancient AR speakers and they don`t have Red and Black
terminals behind them, just 1 and 2.
Forgive my ignorance, but does red/right correspond to 1 or 2?

thanks

Doesn't matter. Just connect both the same.

thanks, I`m going back down in the basement and hook `em up



d

--
Pearce Consulting
http://www.pearce.uk.com

Forgive my ignorance, but does red/right correspond to 1 or 2?

Take a 9v battery and hook it up to the terminals. If the woofer moves OUT
of the enclosure, you have connected the battery "in phase". The + terminal
of the batery then corresponds to the red connector of "newer" speakers. If
the speaker moves IN... well, guess what?

Good luck,
Gert

"Gert Wiersema" wrote in message
. ..
Forgive my ignorance, but does red/right correspond to 1 or 2?

Take a 9v battery and hook it up to the terminals. If the woofer
moves OUT
of the enclosure, you have connected the battery "in phase". The +
terminal
of the batery then corresponds to the red connector of "newer"
speakers. If
the speaker moves IN... well, guess what?

Good luck,
Gert




You've got a blown speaker? You will if you connect a battery across
the terminals and leave it there!
--
Woody

harrogate3 at ntlworld dot com

harrogate3 wrote:
"Gert Wiersema" wrote in message
. ..
Forgive my ignorance, but does red/right correspond to 1 or 2?
Take a 9v battery and hook it up to the terminals. If the woofer
moves OUT
of the enclosure, you have connected the battery "in phase". The +
terminal
of the batery then corresponds to the red connector of "newer"
speakers. If
the speaker moves IN... well, guess what?

Good luck,
Gert




You've got a blown speaker? You will if you connect a battery across
the terminals and leave it there!
--
Woody

harrogate3 at ntlworld dot com


A typical 8 ohm 'speaker will have a DC resistance of some 6 ohms. 9
volt across 5 ohms will dissipate 16.2 watts. Most hi-fi drive units
will take this safely, but taking Woody's point, I would suggest using a
1.5 volt battery for this test. The movement of the cone won't be as
extensive, but can still be easily seen.

S.

In article ,
"harrogate3" wrote:

"Gert Wiersema" wrote in message
. ..
Forgive my ignorance, but does red/right correspond to 1 or 2?

Take a 9v battery and hook it up to the terminals. If the woofer
moves OUT
of the enclosure, you have connected the battery "in phase". The +
terminal
of the batery then corresponds to the red connector of "newer"
speakers. If
the speaker moves IN... well, guess what?

Good luck,
Gert




You've got a blown speaker? You will if you connect a battery across
the terminals and leave it there!
--
Woody

harrogate3 at ntlworld dot com


If that happens, the driver wasn't worth keeping around anyway.

--
-Cyrus

*coughcasaucedoprodigynetcough*

"Serge Auckland" wrote in message
...
harrogate3 wrote:
"Gert Wiersema" wrote in message
. ..
Forgive my ignorance, but does red/right correspond to 1 or 2?
Take a 9v battery and hook it up to the terminals. If the woofer
moves OUT
of the enclosure, you have connected the battery "in phase". The +
terminal
of the batery then corresponds to the red connector of "newer"
speakers. If
the speaker moves IN... well, guess what?

Good luck,
Gert




You've got a blown speaker? You will if you connect a battery across
the terminals and leave it there!
--
Woody

harrogate3 at ntlworld dot com


A typical 8 ohm 'speaker will have a DC resistance of some 6 ohms. 9 volt
across 5 ohms will dissipate 16.2 watts. Most hi-fi drive units will take
this safely, but taking Woody's point, I would suggest using a 1.5 volt
battery for this test. The movement of the cone won't be as extensive, but
can still be easily seen.

S.

Considering it is one of those small 9v transistor radio batteries, internal
resistance won't let anywhere near 16 watts get dissipated. I'd still use a
1.5 volt cell.
John

"Cyrus" wrote in message
...

You've got a blown speaker? You will if you connect a battery across
the terminals and leave it there!

But why on earth would you leave it there?

If that happens, the driver wasn't worth keeping around anyway.

Considering the limited ability of most speakers to dissipate heat when the
voice coil is not moving, and thus limited air flow, (as with DC), not to
mention the fact that you have now driven a large part of the voice coil
from the magnet gap. (which normally acts as a heatsink)
I wouldn't want to try it with any speaker "worth keeping around". You are
welcome to of course.

MrT.

I wouldn't want to try it with any speaker "worth keeping around". You are
welcome to of course.

To be honest, I have used the 9v battery trick directly on LF speakers
without filter, just to check if the speaker is OK. This works fine. In this
situation, there will be a filter which probably avoids DC to reach the HF
driver and protecting it. I would'n know if the capacitor likes the 9v DC..

Another trick: create a very low sine signal in a wave editor. Hook the
vintage speaker and another speaker (on whick the terminals do have color
coding) up to an amp and play the file. If the cones move "in phase", you
know the vintage's speaker polarity. If they do not move in phase.. you
still know it

Although amp specs will usually not mention anything of being capable of
playing such low frequencies, they will if you crank up the volume. Please
try to play and stop the sound with the volume control low, because the
amplitude quickly going back to it's null point will give a tick. Some HF
drivers dislike that.

Gert

"Gert Wiersema" wrote in message
. ..
I wouldn't want to try it with any speaker "worth keeping around". You
are
welcome to of course.

To be honest, I have used the 9v battery trick directly on LF speakers
without filter, just to check if the speaker is OK. This works fine.

Yes, but did you "leave it there", which is what I replied to, and you
snipped.
I bet you didn't, because as I also said, why would anyone want to.

MrT.

Yes, but did you "leave it there", which is what I replied to,
and you snipped.

But the question was not directly for me

I bet you didn't, because as I also said, why would anyone want to.

Exactly. The thing you want to know "pops up" the moment you connect the
battery. There is no need to keep it connected.

Gert