[AZ Nomad]

On Wed, 09 Aug 2006 12:49:56 -0400, Agave wrote:


GregS wrote:
snipped

Gas consumption is highest before warm up. When you take off right away, it
really guzzles.

If you really want to save gas, do not use the air conditioning, get rid of the big cars, slow down
going up hills, and stay home.

greg

snipped
"But you don't have to feel guilty about cranking up your car's AC.
According to Edmunds.com, the air conditioning compressor does pull
power from the engine wasting some gas, but the effect is minimal in
modern cars. On the other hand, driving with your windows down at high
speeds can create an aerodynamic drag."

Most AC use isn't at 70mph.

[John S.]

Agave wrote:
GregS wrote:
snipped

Gas consumption is highest before warm up. When you take off right away, it
really guzzles.

If you really want to save gas, do not use the air conditioning, get rid of the big cars, slow down
going up hills, and stay home.

greg

snipped
"But you don't have to feel guilty about cranking up your car's AC.
According to Edmunds.com, the air conditioning compressor does pull
power from the engine wasting some gas, but the effect is minimal in
modern cars. On the other hand, driving with your windows down at high
speeds can create an aerodynamic drag."

Glad you posted that. I read somewhere that the cost of running ac is
about 1mpg on most modern cars. The best advice for saving money on
gas is to keep tires inflated at one of the higher pressures
recommended by the car manufacturer. Additionally, driving at a steady
moderate speed up and down hills and on the flats combined with keeping
the car in a good state of tune will also help maximize mpg.



http://money.cnn.com/2006/07/19/pf/s...llis/index.htm

[GregS]

In article wvoCg.365576$IK3.122107@pd7tw1no, Matt Ion wrote:
Agave wrote:
GregS wrote:

snipped

Gas consumption is highest before warm up. When you take off right
away, it
really guzzles.

If you really want to save gas, do not use the air conditioning, get
rid of the big cars, slow down
going up hills, and stay home.

greg
snipped

"But you don't have to feel guilty about cranking up your car's AC.
According to Edmunds.com, the air conditioning compressor does pull
power from the engine wasting some gas, but the effect is minimal in
modern cars. On the other hand, driving with your windows down at high
speeds can create an aerodynamic drag."

http://money.cnn.com/2006/07/19/pf/s...llis/index.htm

Yeah, remember reading a study about this some years ago... they actually used
a
highway-patrol division, IIRC, as a case study, since the cops spent a lot of
time at highway speeds: they compared fuel use by those who used the A/C with
the windows up, vs. those who drove with the windows down and no A/C, and found

overall that the A/C used FAR less "extra" gas than the drag created by highway

driving with the windows open.

Obviously the more highway driving you do, the more pronounced the difference;
if all you're doing is city commuting, you'd probably find little or no
difference, or find that the A/C used more gas...


I usually drive with the windows open and the air conditioning ON.
The windows are just cracked really, too let the smoke out, and
I like driving with windows open anyway. Can you imagine driving a pickup with an open bed,
and airconditioning on, and winndows down. Hey, I still get about 11 MPG around town.
It does not matter!

greg
..

[GregS]

In article .com, "John S." wrote:

Agave wrote:
GregS wrote:
snipped

Gas consumption is highest before warm up. When you take off right away, it
really guzzles.

If you really want to save gas, do not use the air conditioning, get rid of
the big cars, slow down
going up hills, and stay home.

greg

snipped
"But you don't have to feel guilty about cranking up your car's AC.
According to Edmunds.com, the air conditioning compressor does pull
power from the engine wasting some gas, but the effect is minimal in
modern cars. On the other hand, driving with your windows down at high
speeds can create an aerodynamic drag."

Glad you posted that. I read somewhere that the cost of running ac is
about 1mpg on most modern cars. The best advice for saving money on
gas is to keep tires inflated at one of the higher pressures
recommended by the car manufacturer. Additionally, driving at a steady
moderate speed up and down hills and on the flats combined with keeping
the car in a good state of tune will also help maximize mpg.

I can't see why air conditionng is any different on modern vs old vehicles.
Did you know most large vans have more BTU's than most home whole house
air conditioning.

greg

[GregS]

In article 5ooCg.356228$iF6.103227@pd7tw2no, Matt Ion wrote:
GregS wrote:
In article 1w3Cg.348081$iF6.315343@pd7tw2no, Matt Ion
wrote:

Frank Olson wrote:


In Vancouver, if you idle your engine for longer than 3 minutes while
parked anywhere, you're subject to an $80.00 fine. This has something
to do with lowering emission levels. This, of course, never even
crossed your mind. Having a "warm and toasty" car is far more important
after that long plane trip...

Another thing to consider: almost all modern car manufacturers recommend NOT
warming up your car for more than 30 seconds before driving.


I read a few posts about warming up. Nothing seems to be really informative,
or dangerous.
These seem to be accepted generalizations.

Idling for a while is good, to get the oil going.

That's the "conventional wisdom" but keep in mind, most cars today are using
much lighter multigrade oils (5W-30) than back in the day when everyone just
used straight 30-weights. They don't need to "warm up" to flow properly.

Car companies and media are likely to recommend anything that
improves immisions or fuel economy.

Funny, I'd have thought the car companies would be all about wasting fuel. :P

I forget what year it was. The Feds used to have a thing going where every year the
car companies were suppose to decrease fuel consumption. They quit doing that one
year probably back in the 80's. Supposed to boost the economy. I think it boosted foreign car sales.
Well now, the average size of vehicles is way too high.

grge


Idling may not be the optimum conditions for a running engine.

Warming up produces higher emmisions, and a fast warmup
may lower overall emmisions.

Not so much true anymore... once again, with newer cars, computer-controlled
fuel systems mitigate that. Back in the carb days, yes, you had to warm up -
engines didn't burn fuel well when colder, so the choke on your car closed and
locked the idle on high to get a lot more gas through until the engine warmed
up
enough for proper combustion, with no real way to control it to actually match
conditions - the choke worked the same whether it was +30 or -30. With
computer-controlled fuel injection, all engine conditions are monitored
constantly, including sampling the exhaust to determine how well the fuel was
burning, and fuel mixture is constantly adjusted accordingly, allowing it to be

optimized even under poor combustion conditions.

The need to allow the engine to "warm up" for proper operation simply doesn't
exist on newer cars.

[Matt Ion]

Doug L wrote:
Poor guy just want's to be warm when he gets in his car at the airport, not
a mini series on global warming, environmental damage or the right or wrong
way to warm up a modern engine

Well look on the bright side: with the global warming, in a few more years, he
won't have to worry about it freezing in Philly in the winter!

[Doug L]

Yeh and on the West Coast we'll have to remote start the car and run the AC
first

Doug



--

"Matt Ion" wrote in message
news:b2qCg.356783$iF6.37219@pd7tw2no...
Doug L wrote:
Poor guy just want's to be warm when he gets in his car at the airport,
not a mini series on global warming, environmental damage or the right or
wrong way to warm up a modern engine

Well look on the bright side: with the global warming, in a few more
years, he won't have to worry about it freezing in Philly in the winter!

[Matt Ion]

Doug L wrote:
Yeh and on the West Coast we'll have to remote start the car and run the AC
first

Don't you mean, "start the sub"?

[GregS]

In article QmqCg.358439$Mn5.256576@pd7tw3no, Matt Ion wrote:
Doug L wrote:
Yeh and on the West Coast we'll have to remote start the car and run the AC
first

Don't you mean, "start the sub"?

Well you know cold woofers don't perform well. Ths Fs of the driver is going to be
high and the enclosure will be too big. Perhaps retunning the port length will help.
Need to be shorter. You can also decrease port length by placing an object near the port.
Even your hand placed near the port will make it shorter.

greg

[Larry Bud]

Matt Ion wrote:
Frank Olson wrote:

In Vancouver, if you idle your engine for longer than 3 minutes while
parked anywhere, you're subject to an $80.00 fine. This has something
to do with lowering emission levels. This, of course, never even
crossed your mind. Having a "warm and toasty" car is far more important
after that long plane trip...

Another thing to consider: almost all modern car manufacturers recommend NOT
warming up your car for more than 30 seconds before driving.

Ridiculous. How are you supposed to defrost the windows in 30 seconds?

[Doug L]

Frank blows a lot of hot air, his windows defrost pretty quickly

Doug

--

"Larry Bud" wrote in message
oups.com...

Matt Ion wrote:
Frank Olson wrote:

In Vancouver, if you idle your engine for longer than 3 minutes while
parked anywhere, you're subject to an $80.00 fine. This has something
to do with lowering emission levels. This, of course, never even
crossed your mind. Having a "warm and toasty" car is far more
important
after that long plane trip...

Another thing to consider: almost all modern car manufacturers recommend
NOT
warming up your car for more than 30 seconds before driving.

Ridiculous. How are you supposed to defrost the windows in 30 seconds?

[GregS]

In article , (GregS) wrote:
In article QmqCg.358439$Mn5.256576@pd7tw3no, Matt Ion
wrote:
Doug L wrote:
Yeh and on the West Coast we'll have to remote start the car and run the AC
first

Don't you mean, "start the sub"?

Well you know cold woofers don't perform well. Ths Fs of the driver is going to
be
high and the enclosure will be too big. Perhaps retunning the port length will
help.
Need to be shorter. You can also decrease port length by placing an object near
the port.
Even your hand placed near the port will make it shorter.


I sure got that wrong. Placing a hand near makes it longer.

Just get a woofer preheater, or just play loud music. If
you have a remote starter the music can start to play at the same time,
thus providing you with maximum boom.

greg

[John S.]

GregS wrote:
In article .com, "John S." wrote:

Agave wrote:
GregS wrote:
snipped

Gas consumption is highest before warm up. When you take off right away, it
really guzzles.

If you really want to save gas, do not use the air conditioning, get rid of
the big cars, slow down
going up hills, and stay home.

greg

snipped
"But you don't have to feel guilty about cranking up your car's AC.
According to Edmunds.com, the air conditioning compressor does pull
power from the engine wasting some gas, but the effect is minimal in
modern cars. On the other hand, driving with your windows down at high
speeds can create an aerodynamic drag."

Glad you posted that. I read somewhere that the cost of running ac is
about 1mpg on most modern cars. The best advice for saving money on
gas is to keep tires inflated at one of the higher pressures
recommended by the car manufacturer. Additionally, driving at a steady
moderate speed up and down hills and on the flats combined with keeping
the car in a good state of tune will also help maximize mpg.

I can't see why air conditionng is any different on modern vs old vehicles.
Did you know most large vans have more BTU's than most home whole house
air conditioning.

greg

Can't tell you much about AC systems on older cars, but some of them
ran constantly while the newer ones cycle on and off. I suspect that
the newer ones are more efficient because the newer ones just don't
seem to drag the engine down as much when they come on. And finally, I
suspect that the design of AC systems, like the design of many other
automotive systems has improved over the past 30 years.

[Matt Ion]

GregS wrote:
In article QmqCg.358439$Mn5.256576@pd7tw3no, Matt Ion wrote:

Doug L wrote:

Yeh and on the West Coast we'll have to remote start the car and run the AC
first

Don't you mean, "start the sub"?


Well you know cold woofers don't perform well. Ths Fs of the driver is going to be
high and the enclosure will be too big. Perhaps retunning the port length will help.
Need to be shorter. You can also decrease port length by placing an object near the port.
Even your hand placed near the port will make it shorter.

Oops, forgot where I was posting... I meant "submarine" (global warming, melting
polar ice caps, etc.), but your version works too

[Matt Ion]

GregS wrote:
In article , (GregS) wrote:

In article QmqCg.358439$Mn5.256576@pd7tw3no, Matt Ion
wrote:

Doug L wrote:

Yeh and on the West Coast we'll have to remote start the car and run the AC
first

Don't you mean, "start the sub"?

Well you know cold woofers don't perform well. Ths Fs of the driver is going to
be
high and the enclosure will be too big. Perhaps retunning the port length will
help.
Need to be shorter. You can also decrease port length by placing an object near
the port.
Even your hand placed near the port will make it shorter.



I sure got that wrong. Placing a hand near makes it longer.

Just get a woofer preheater, or just play loud music. If
you have a remote starter the music can start to play at the same time,
thus providing you with maximum boom.

Black metal works well... the brimstone warms the coils right up.

[Frank Olson]

Doug L wrote:
Frank blows a lot of hot air, his windows defrost pretty quickly

Doug



Clowns here like Doug L. and the rest of the EVIL AMERICAN GOVT
PROGRAMMED AMERICAN SLAVES are PAYING TAXES through their SLAVE HINIES
to these AMERICAN GOVT PSYCHOPATHS and TERRORISTS to WATCH me defrost
windows in my CAR.

[Agave]

AZ Nomad wrote:
On Wed, 09 Aug 2006 12:49:56 -0400, Agave wrote:



GregS wrote:

snipped

Gas consumption is highest before warm up. When you take off right away, it
really guzzles.

If you really want to save gas, do not use the air conditioning, get rid of the big cars, slow down
going up hills, and stay home.

greg

snipped

"But you don't have to feel guilty about cranking up your car's AC.
According to Edmunds.com, the air conditioning compressor does pull
power from the engine wasting some gas, but the effect is minimal in
modern cars. On the other hand, driving with your windows down at high
speeds can create an aerodynamic drag."


Most AC use isn't at 70mph.


You do mean - most AC use *of yours* isn't at 70mph, don't you?

[Frank Olson]

GregS wrote:

Might run longer, but much less wear than stepping on the gas, and much
less air flowing through the converter. I thinks its universaly agreed that
the oil should warm up before serious torque is applied.

It's called "Mobile One". It's a synthetic motor oil. I use it in all
our vehicles. The greatest engine wear occurs when you first start a
"cold" engine (one that has been sitting idle for long periods). This
stuff reduces that to practically nil. I also use their synthetic
transmission fluid. I have a 1968 Buick Skylark that still purrs like a
kitten and lays about 100 feet of rubber on the one-two shift. She's
got a 455ci long block with Bosch ignition, Hooker headers, and a Holley
carb.



I think you would have to run a serious test in order to make sense of
all these factors. Just thinking what they are is no good.

They have. The first time I ever saw anything written up about
synthetic motor oils was in a Popular Mechanics magazine from about 20
years ago. They changed out the factory supplied oil with "Mobile One"
and put 130,000 miles on a brand new Lincoln Town Car WITHOUT changing
the oil. They did top it up when required with more "Mobile One", and
changed the filter at the suggested intervals. When they tore down the
engine after 130,000 miles, the bearings, rings, and gears were still
within factory specs for a NEW engine. Not only that, but they took two
samples of regular 10-30 weight oil and one of "Mobile One" to -50
degrees Celsius. You could still pour the "Mobile One" (there was very
little difference from the room temperature sample), while the regular
motor oils became viscous "sludge" in the bottom of the test beakers.



One of the nicest features of a remote start, its kinda nice to have a little bit
of security when walking toward your vehicle late at night in a seculed parking garage
and you see some shady characters approaching. The sound of a car starting is a
good deterant.


If you were in a parking garage and confronted with a couple of shady
characters approaching, who would you call?? "911" or your car's
auto-starter??

[Rick Brandt]

John S. wrote:
GregS wrote:
In article .com,
"John S." wrote:

Agave wrote:
Glad you posted that. I read somewhere that the cost of running
ac is about 1mpg on most modern cars. The best advice for saving
money on gas is to keep tires inflated at one of the higher
pressures recommended by the car manufacturer. Additionally,
driving at a steady moderate speed up and down hills and on the
flats combined with keeping the car in a good state of tune will
also help maximize mpg.


Mythbusters took identical Ford Explorers with equal amounts of gas and did a
constant speed on an oval race track. One with the windows down and one with
the AC on. The one with the windows down did 15 additional laps before running
out of fuel.

[AZ Nomad]

On Thu, 10 Aug 2006 03:09:40 GMT, Frank Olson wrote:


GregS wrote:

Might run longer, but much less wear than stepping on the gas, and much
less air flowing through the converter. I thinks its universaly agreed that
the oil should warm up before serious torque is applied.

It's called "Mobile One". It's a synthetic motor oil. I use it in all
our vehicles. The greatest engine wear occurs when you first start a
"cold" engine (one that has been sitting idle for long periods). This
stuff reduces that to practically nil. I also use their synthetic
transmission fluid. I have a 1968 Buick Skylark that still purrs like a
kitten and lays about 100 feet of rubber on the one-two shift. She's
got a 455ci long block with Bosch ignition, Hooker headers, and a Holley
carb.



I think you would have to run a serious test in order to make sense of
all these factors. Just thinking what they are is no good.

They have. The first time I ever saw anything written up about
synthetic motor oils was in a Popular Mechanics magazine from about 20
years ago. They changed out the factory supplied oil with "Mobile One"
and put 130,000 miles on a brand new Lincoln Town Car WITHOUT changing
the oil. They did top it up when required with more "Mobile One", and
changed the filter at the suggested intervals. When they tore down the
engine after 130,000 miles, the bearings, rings, and gears were still
within factory specs for a NEW engine. Not only that, but they took two
samples of regular 10-30 weight oil and one of "Mobile One" to -50
degrees Celsius. You could still pour the "Mobile One" (there was very
little difference from the room temperature sample), while the regular
motor oils became viscous "sludge" in the bottom of the test beakers.



One of the nicest features of a remote start, its kinda nice to have a little bit
of security when walking toward your vehicle late at night in a seculed parking garage
and you see some shady characters approaching. The sound of a car starting is a
good deterant.


If you were in a parking garage and confronted with a couple of shady
characters approaching, who would you call?? "911" or your car's
auto-starter??

The autostarter. I'd rather get away and stay alive than help the police
find my beaten corpse. Do you have some strange notion that the police
will arrive in time if you call 911? They won't even get you to convey
your location in time.

[Frank Olson]

AZ Nomad wrote:

The autostarter. I'd rather get away and stay alive than help the police
find my beaten corpse. Do you have some strange notion that the police
will arrive in time if you call 911? They won't even get you to convey
your location in time.

I doubt they'd let you get anywhere near your car. And at least the 911
dispatcher will know where to send the ambulance...

[Dave]

Doug L wrote:
Yeh and on the West Coast we'll have to remote start the car and run the AC
first

Doug



I have done that here in Pittsburgh this past month. With highs in the
mid 90s and a black car with leather seats I will sometimes start the
car a couple of minutes before I get into it. I have entered it without
it running and burned my legs on the leather seats and could breathe and
glasses fog up.

[GregS]

In article UrxCg.358608$iF6.207862@pd7tw2no, Frank Olson wrote:
GregS wrote:

Might run longer, but much less wear than stepping on the gas, and much
less air flowing through the converter. I thinks its universaly agreed that
the oil should warm up before serious torque is applied.

It's called "Mobile One". It's a synthetic motor oil. I use it in all
our vehicles. The greatest engine wear occurs when you first start a
"cold" engine (one that has been sitting idle for long periods). This
stuff reduces that to practically nil. I also use their synthetic
transmission fluid. I have a 1968 Buick Skylark that still purrs like a
kitten and lays about 100 feet of rubber on the one-two shift. She's
got a 455ci long block with Bosch ignition, Hooker headers, and a Holley
carb.

I started using Mobil1 in my 280Z in 77. It used to leak out the head gasket.
I used it for some 25K miles. In the process the family aquired a Pontiac station wagon.
It was used and had a Mobil1 sticker inside. We continued to use Mobil1
for quite a while. The engine finally ran out of steam. My brother took off the heads. He
never saw so much sludge in an engine. I'm not saying it was Mobil1's fault, but
the stuff sure didn't clean it up. Starting cold Mobil1 will probably all sink down
into the oil pan, and will need more time to get all through the system.

I still have the Z, 67K miles.
I used to be able to buy Mobile1 and Z parts at Montgomery Wards.

greg

[John S.]

GregS wrote:
In article UrxCg.358608$iF6.207862@pd7tw2no, Frank Olson wrote:
GregS wrote:

Might run longer, but much less wear than stepping on the gas, and much
less air flowing through the converter. I thinks its universaly agreed that
the oil should warm up before serious torque is applied.

It's called "Mobile One". It's a synthetic motor oil. I use it in all
our vehicles. The greatest engine wear occurs when you first start a
"cold" engine (one that has been sitting idle for long periods). This
stuff reduces that to practically nil. I also use their synthetic
transmission fluid. I have a 1968 Buick Skylark that still purrs like a
kitten and lays about 100 feet of rubber on the one-two shift. She's
got a 455ci long block with Bosch ignition, Hooker headers, and a Holley
carb.

I started using Mobil1 in my 280Z in 77. It used to leak out the head gasket.
I used it for some 25K miles. In the process the family aquired a Pontiac station wagon.
It was used and had a Mobil1 sticker inside. We continued to use Mobil1
for quite a while. The engine finally ran out of steam. My brother took off the heads. He
never saw so much sludge in an engine. I'm not saying it was Mobil1's fault, but
the stuff sure didn't clean it up. Starting cold Mobil1 will probably all sink down
into the oil pan, and will need more time to get all through the system.


Mobil 1 or any other oil isn't going to clean up the damage that has
already been done. In my experience it will keep the sludge level down
because it doesn't create much if changed regularly.

The important missing information includes: How often did the original
owner change oil; Did the original owner atcually use Mobil 1
regularly; Did the original owner paste that Mobil 1 sticker there to
fool the new purchasers; How often did the new owners change oil; Did
the original and new owners change the filter every time oil was
changed.

I suspect that Pontiac wagon was used and abused more than the original
seller disclosed.



I still have the Z, 67K miles.
I used to be able to buy Mobile1 and Z parts at Montgomery Wards.

greg

[Agave]

Rick Brandt wrote:
John S. wrote:

GregS wrote:

In article .com,
"John S." wrote:

Agave wrote:
Glad you posted that. I read somewhere that the cost of running
ac is about 1mpg on most modern cars. The best advice for saving
money on gas is to keep tires inflated at one of the higher
pressures recommended by the car manufacturer. Additionally,
driving at a steady moderate speed up and down hills and on the
flats combined with keeping the car in a good state of tune will
also help maximize mpg.



Mythbusters took identical Ford Explorers with equal amounts of gas and did a
constant speed on an oval race track. One with the windows down and one with
the AC on. The one with the windows down did 15 additional laps before running
out of fuel.



I went to the MythBusters site
(http://dsc.discovery.com/fansites/my...thbusters.html) to try
to find the transcript of the show mentioned, but was unable to. Do you
have a reference for this information?

[phd-12v]

oh boy, the misinformation that runs wild on this thread, amazes
me!!!!!!

DEI units can do it, also look at the Audiovox unit with the optional
CL100 one way trigger system. Simply dial your 800 number, enter your
code, then the unit code, and then enter your option #. This whole
sequence can be easily programmed into your phone. I did these back in
2002 as they came out. And still have one running fine.


--
phd-12v

[Scott Buchanan]

Perhaps the one with windows down was drafting the other one.

But seriously, what was their speed?

"Rick Brandt" wrote in message
t...
John S. wrote:
GregS wrote:
In article .com,
"John S." wrote:

Agave wrote:
Glad you posted that. I read somewhere that the cost of running
ac is about 1mpg on most modern cars. The best advice for saving
money on gas is to keep tires inflated at one of the higher
pressures recommended by the car manufacturer. Additionally,
driving at a steady moderate speed up and down hills and on the
flats combined with keeping the car in a good state of tune will
also help maximize mpg.


Mythbusters took identical Ford Explorers with equal amounts of gas and
did a
constant speed on an oval race track. One with the windows down and one
with
the AC on. The one with the windows down did 15 additional laps before
running
out of fuel.

[John Durbin]

How the hell would that happen? Those are mechanical interlocks... if
you get in the car and try and drive it w/o a key the remote starter
shuts off.

JD

Bob Worthy wrote:
"Frank Olson" wrote in message
news:XJ0Cg.345089$iF6.83209@pd7tw2no...
In Vancouver, if you idle your engine for longer than 3 minutes while

parked anywhere, you're subject to an $80.00 fine. This has something
to do with lowering emission levels. This, of course, never even
crossed your mind. Having a "warm and toasty" car is far more important
after that long plane trip...


Just out of curiosity, while the car is idling, is the steering wheel and
gear shift unlocked?

[John Durbin]

Are you an idiot? Starting the engine of a car with an automatic
transmission DOES warm up the transmission also... look it up - start
with "torque converter".

JD

mikey wrote:

"Matt Ion" wrote in message
news:1w3Cg.348081$iF6.315343@pd7tw2no...
Frank Olson wrote:


In Vancouver, if you idle your engine for longer than 3 minutes while
parked anywhere, you're subject to an $80.00 fine. This has something
to do with lowering emission levels. This, of course, never even
crossed your mind. Having a "warm and toasty" car is far more important
after that long plane trip...


Another thing to consider: almost all modern car manufacturers recommend NOT
warming up your car for more than 30 seconds before driving.

Very true, especially in cold climates. A warm engine working a cold
transmission
is not a good thing.... best everything warms up at the same pace.

[Bob Worthy]

JD,

Go back and reread the first line of my post, starting with "Out of
curiosity". Chill out man, I am not a gearhead, I was simply asking a
question.

"John Durbin" wrote in message
...
How the hell would that happen? Those are mechanical interlocks... if
you get in the car and try and drive it w/o a key the remote starter
shuts off.

JD

Bob Worthy wrote:
"Frank Olson" wrote in
message
news:XJ0Cg.345089$iF6.83209@pd7tw2no...
In Vancouver, if you idle your engine for longer than 3 minutes while

parked anywhere, you're subject to an $80.00 fine. This has something
to do with lowering emission levels. This, of course, never even
crossed your mind. Having a "warm and toasty" car is far more important
after that long plane trip...


Just out of curiosity, while the car is idling, is the steering wheel
and
gear shift unlocked?

[phd-12v]

sorry, but if you make idiotic statements, expect to be called an idiot.
Fact of life. Deal with it. Also, ive been doing alarms/remote starts
since the beginning of the 90's, and i have always had these on my
cars, and my families cars. Weird thing is, all of our cars have all
gone over 100k miles with no unforseen issues with engines and
trannies. So saying these hurt your vehicle is IDIOTIC. Saying these
allow you to just drive off with the car is IDIOTIC. Why dont some of
you grow up, and learn from how these things work istead of assuming
you know. Have a wonderful day!!!!


--
phd-12v

[mikey]

I'm sure the engine warms up everything connected to it sooner or later. My
postion is that everything should warm up at the same RATE. Not a good idea
to have a warm motor pushing a cold car, wheel bearings, axle, dif, tranny,
whatever. If it's too difficult a concept for you to grasp, that would make
you the idiot. Torque converter? hahaha, well, at least you can spell it.

"John Durbin" wrote in message
...
Are you an idiot? Starting the engine of a car with an automatic
transmission DOES warm up the transmission also... look it up - start
with "torque converter".

JD

mikey wrote:

"Matt Ion" wrote in message
news:1w3Cg.348081$iF6.315343@pd7tw2no...
Frank Olson wrote:


In Vancouver, if you idle your engine for longer than 3 minutes while
parked anywhere, you're subject to an $80.00 fine. This has something
to do with lowering emission levels. This, of course, never even
crossed your mind. Having a "warm and toasty" car is far more important
after that long plane trip...


Another thing to consider: almost all modern car manufacturers recommend
NOT
warming up your car for more than 30 seconds before driving.

Very true, especially in cold climates. A warm engine working a cold
transmission
is not a good thing.... best everything warms up at the same pace.







--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

[GregS]

In article , "mikey" wrote:
I'm sure the engine warms up everything connected to it sooner or later. My
postion is that everything should warm up at the same RATE. Not a good idea
to have a warm motor pushing a cold car, wheel bearings, axle, dif, tranny,

What. The only thing I can think of good, is warm tires, and
you can't warm them up just sitting there.

whatever. If it's too difficult a concept for you to grasp, that would make
you the idiot. Torque converter? hahaha, well, at least you can spell it.

I did mention a cople of times, my transmission opperates much better after
the initial warm up procedure, just idling in the driveway.

greg

"John Durbin" wrote in message
.. .
Are you an idiot? Starting the engine of a car with an automatic
transmission DOES warm up the transmission also... look it up - start
with "torque converter".

JD

mikey wrote:

"Matt Ion" wrote in message
news:1w3Cg.348081$iF6.315343@pd7tw2no...
Frank Olson wrote:


In Vancouver, if you idle your engine for longer than 3 minutes while
parked anywhere, you're subject to an $80.00 fine. This has something
to do with lowering emission levels. This, of course, never even
crossed your mind. Having a "warm and toasty" car is far more important
after that long plane trip...


Another thing to consider: almost all modern car manufacturers recommend
NOT
warming up your car for more than 30 seconds before driving.

Very true, especially in cold climates. A warm engine working a cold
transmission
is not a good thing.... best everything warms up at the same pace.

[Matt Ion]

mikey wrote:
I'm sure the engine warms up everything connected to it sooner or later. My
postion is that everything should warm up at the same RATE. Not a good idea
to have a warm motor pushing a cold car, wheel bearings, axle, dif, tranny,
whatever.

So either you take off right away so you have a COLD motor pushing a cold
drivetrain, or you let the thing warm up for half an hour.

I see no logic at all to your "position". WHY is it "not a good idea to have a
warm motor pushing a cold car, etc..."?

My answer to ALL this silliness is again to point out that almost every modern
car manufacturer recommends a start-and-go procedure and not allowing the car to
warm up more than 30 seconds in normal circumstances... seems to me they know a
damn site more about how their products will best respond than any of the
pundits in these groups.

[GregS]

In article EnoFg.422264$iF6.409047@pd7tw2no, Matt Ion wrote:
mikey wrote:
I'm sure the engine warms up everything connected to it sooner or later. My
postion is that everything should warm up at the same RATE. Not a good idea
to have a warm motor pushing a cold car, wheel bearings, axle, dif, tranny,
whatever.

So either you take off right away so you have a COLD motor pushing a cold
drivetrain, or you let the thing warm up for half an hour.

I see no logic at all to your "position". WHY is it "not a good idea to have a

warm motor pushing a cold car, etc..."?

My answer to ALL this silliness is again to point out that almost every modern
car manufacturer recommends a start-and-go procedure and not allowing the car
to
warm up more than 30 seconds in normal circumstances... seems to me they know a

damn site more about how their products will best respond than any of the
pundits in these groups.

i wonder how many of the executives of the car companies have remote start??

greg

[mikey]

"Matt Ion" wrote in message
news:EnoFg.422264$iF6.409047@pd7tw2no...
mikey wrote:
I'm sure the engine warms up everything connected to it sooner or later.
My
postion is that everything should warm up at the same RATE. Not a good
idea
to have a warm motor pushing a cold car, wheel bearings, axle, dif,
tranny,
whatever.

So either you take off right away so you have a COLD motor pushing a cold
drivetrain, or you let the thing warm up for half an hour.

I see no logic at all to your "position". WHY is it "not a good idea to
have a
warm motor pushing a cold car, etc..."?

My answer to ALL this silliness is again to point out that almost every
modern
car manufacturer recommends a start-and-go procedure and not allowing the
car to
warm up more than 30 seconds in normal circumstances... seems to me they
know a
damn site more about how their products will best respond than any of the
pundits in these groups.

Your answer is the same as mine. I might go a step further and suggest
warming the fluids
is a good idea, certainly better than idling the motor but I'm saying the
same thing,
start everything working at the same time, take off, just take it easy and
all gets warmed up
at about the same rate.. but then again, its JUST AN OPINION.



--
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