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  #1   Report Post  
Christopher O'Callaghan
 
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Default Amp probs

I have a Audiobahn 4601T 4x75 amp. 2 channels run my front speakers, the
other 2 are bridged and run my sub... all was going well, listening to
music, went to work..... After I finished work I went to drive home, and
thee was a serious lack of bass... My sub stopped working; Went home checked
my amp, its still powering on, front speakers are still running so the amp
is still working, switched the rca cables around, front speakers worked with
either set... so its not the RCA cable.... checked the two fuses in the amp,
they both seem to be good.. I'm stuck, what happened? anyone have any ideas?
how can it be working grand and then after work not? nothing popped/burnt
out that I can see!!! Oh yeah also checked my sub by connecting it to a
1.5volt battery, the cone moved so I'm assuming the sub is still good?!?!
Thing is when I turn on my music, nothing happens at the sub, no sound, no
movement NOTHING!?!?!


Any help at all appreciated!!


  #2   Report Post  
Scott Gardner
 
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On Sat, 18 Jun 2005 17:37:32 +0100, "Christopher O'Callaghan"
wrote:

I have a Audiobahn 4601T 4x75 amp. 2 channels run my front speakers, the
other 2 are bridged and run my sub... all was going well, listening to
music, went to work..... After I finished work I went to drive home, and
thee was a serious lack of bass... My sub stopped working; Went home checked
my amp, its still powering on, front speakers are still running so the amp
is still working, switched the rca cables around, front speakers worked with
either set... so its not the RCA cable.... checked the two fuses in the amp,
they both seem to be good.. I'm stuck, what happened? anyone have any ideas?
how can it be working grand and then after work not? nothing popped/burnt
out that I can see!!! Oh yeah also checked my sub by connecting it to a
1.5volt battery, the cone moved so I'm assuming the sub is still good?!?!
Thing is when I turn on my music, nothing happens at the sub, no sound, no
movement NOTHING!?!?!


Any help at all appreciated!!

I would double-check the fuses. In fact, go ahead and pull them out,
look at them closely, and test them with an ohmmeter if you have one.

The fact that you're getting nothing from the subs at all makes me
suspect the amp fuse or the wiring between the amp and subs. Were
there any splices in the speaker wire between the amp and the sub that
could have come loose? If the fuse turns out to be good, you might
temporarily run a different length of speaker wire to your sub.


--
Scott Gardner

"Any event, once it has occurred, can be made to appear inevitable by a competent historian". - Lee Simonson

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joe.ker
 
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"Christopher O'Callaghan" wrote in message
...
I have a Audiobahn 4601T 4x75 amp. 2 channels run my front speakers, the
other 2 are bridged and run my sub... all was going well, listening to
music, went to work..... After I finished work I went to drive home, and
thee was a serious lack of bass... My sub stopped working; Went home
checked my amp, its still powering on, front speakers are still running so
the amp is still working, switched the rca cables around, front speakers
worked with either set... so its not the RCA cable.... checked the two
fuses in the amp, they both seem to be good.. I'm stuck, what happened?
anyone have any ideas? how can it be working grand and then after work not?
nothing popped/burnt out that I can see!!! Oh yeah also checked my sub by
connecting it to a 1.5volt battery, the cone moved so I'm assuming the sub
is still good?!?! Thing is when I turn on my music, nothing happens at the
sub, no sound, no movement NOTHING!?!?!


Any help at all appreciated!!


Either your sub is bad or the channel that runs the sub is bad.
try putting the sub on the front side of the amp. or try the sub on your
home stereo.



  #4   Report Post  
Christopher O'Callaghan
 
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Hi thanks for the reply!! nah the wire from the sub to the amp is grand,
dunno whats up, ok I'll check the fuses properly... Yeah I was maybe
thinking I might of fuct the amp, but I dunno how thats possible cause it
just suddenly stopped working, its not as if I was using it when it
happened... its really confusing, my amp has protection mode as well. so if
the amp was running too high shouldn't of that kicked in???

thanks for the ideas anyways!


"Scott Gardner" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 18 Jun 2005 17:37:32 +0100, "Christopher O'Callaghan"
wrote:

I have a Audiobahn 4601T 4x75 amp. 2 channels run my front speakers, the
other 2 are bridged and run my sub... all was going well, listening to
music, went to work..... After I finished work I went to drive home, and
thee was a serious lack of bass... My sub stopped working; Went home
checked
my amp, its still powering on, front speakers are still running so the amp
is still working, switched the rca cables around, front speakers worked
with
either set... so its not the RCA cable.... checked the two fuses in the
amp,
they both seem to be good.. I'm stuck, what happened? anyone have any
ideas?
how can it be working grand and then after work not? nothing popped/burnt
out that I can see!!! Oh yeah also checked my sub by connecting it to a
1.5volt battery, the cone moved so I'm assuming the sub is still good?!?!
Thing is when I turn on my music, nothing happens at the sub, no sound, no
movement NOTHING!?!?!


Any help at all appreciated!!

I would double-check the fuses. In fact, go ahead and pull them out,
look at them closely, and test them with an ohmmeter if you have one.

The fact that you're getting nothing from the subs at all makes me
suspect the amp fuse or the wiring between the amp and subs. Were
there any splices in the speaker wire between the amp and the sub that
could have come loose? If the fuse turns out to be good, you might
temporarily run a different length of speaker wire to your sub.


--
Scott Gardner

"Any event, once it has occurred, can be made to appear inevitable by a
competent historian". - Lee Simonson



  #5   Report Post  
bob wald
 
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get you 1 good 10' sub and hook it up. thenll youll know if its the amp
or sub...geezzzzz
i guess it could be the sub hook up from the radio too.



  #6   Report Post  
Christopher O'Callaghan
 
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I took the sub out, and put my 6x9s onto it.. Seems to be one of my channels
is fuct. how's it happen though? My radio wasnt even playing! I would
understand if it happened midplay, music being too loud or me adding a
component which didn't agree with my system.. Any ideas on how to fix the
problem? Would the amp still be covered under guarantee?? its only 3 months
old!


"bob wald" wrote in message
...
get you 1 good 10' sub and hook it up. thenll youll know if its the amp
or sub...geezzzzz
i guess it could be the sub hook up from the radio too.



  #7   Report Post  
bob wald
 
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i've noticed alot damage happens when turning on or off your
system.......
when turning on your car its better to turn off your stereo if its high
power.i got stickers all on my dash says danger high voltage dont touch
stereo.lol

  #9   Report Post  
MZ
 
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.i got stickers all on my dash says danger high voltage dont touch
stereo.lol


Sounds like a classy ride.


  #10   Report Post  
MZ
 
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That's a good point. If the problem turns out to be a component
inside the amp instead of just a blown fuse, it could have easily
happened because of the "inrush curent" through cold circuits when you
turned the amp on. (The same reason light bulbs usually blow when you
first turn them on.)

Amps are usually protected from voltage spikes and drops while you're
starting your car, since the amp is turned on by the remote turn-on
lead on the head unit, and there's usually a relay in your car's
wiring that keeps things like the air conditioning and head unit
turned off while the engine is being started.


But with the light bulb, it's because the resistance of the tungsten is at
its lowest point when cold. Things are different with an amp. Charge up
the power supply capacitors and that's it. What's gonna go wrong there?
Burn out a trace?




  #11   Report Post  
Christopher O'Callaghan
 
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My car has no ac position; So the radio doesn't need the key turned or even
in to turn on!!! I put the radio in and switched it on as I was sending a
text before starting my car; Well, the main thing I wanna know is, is my amp
beyond repair?
"MZ" wrote in message
...
.i got stickers all on my dash says danger high voltage dont touch
stereo.lol


Sounds like a classy ride.



  #12   Report Post  
Scott Gardner
 
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On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 09:53:49 -0400, "MZ"
wrote:

That's a good point. If the problem turns out to be a component
inside the amp instead of just a blown fuse, it could have easily
happened because of the "inrush curent" through cold circuits when you
turned the amp on. (The same reason light bulbs usually blow when you
first turn them on.)

Amps are usually protected from voltage spikes and drops while you're
starting your car, since the amp is turned on by the remote turn-on
lead on the head unit, and there's usually a relay in your car's
wiring that keeps things like the air conditioning and head unit
turned off while the engine is being started.


But with the light bulb, it's because the resistance of the tungsten is at
its lowest point when cold. Things are different with an amp. Charge up
the power supply capacitors and that's it. What's gonna go wrong there?
Burn out a trace?

I guess it would depend on what the very first components are in the
circuit path when power is applied. The capacitors you mention appear
as dead shorts in the circuit until they've begun to charge, so that's
another example of a spike in turn-on current. Along the same lines,
what exactly is it that causes "turn-on 'thump' in amps"? Even if his
amp has circuitry to prevent the "thump", that circuitry itself must
have to deal with some kind of spike upon turn-on.

I realize it doesn't happen often, although I've had other electronic
devices fail upon initial powerup. The original poster was asking why
his amp would fail at turn-on rather than under use, and I was just
pointing out that initial application of power can be a risky time for
electronic devices.

For his sake, I'm hoping the problem is just a blown fuse in the bad
channel. The last I heard from him, he had just looked at the fuse in
place - he hadn't removed it to examine it more closely, test it with
an ohmmeter, or to swap it with the other fuse in the amp or a new
fuse.


--
Scott Gardner

"If you sleep twelve hours a day, then the deployment will only be three months long, not six!" (Navy JO saying)

  #13   Report Post  
Scott Gardner
 
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On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 15:02:56 +0100, "Christopher O'Callaghan"
wrote:

My car has no ac position; So the radio doesn't need the key turned or even
in to turn on!!! I put the radio in and switched it on as I was sending a
text before starting my car; Well, the main thing I wanna know is, is my amp
beyond repair?
"MZ" wrote in message
...
.i got stickers all on my dash says danger high voltage dont touch
stereo.lol


Sounds like a classy ride.



If your stereo is wired so that the key doesn't have to be in the
ignition to power the stereo, then you can get voltage spikes and
drops to your amplifier if you start the car with the stereo and
amplifier turned on. I'm not saying that's what caused the problem,
but all else being equal, there's a reason that factory stereos are
interlocked so that they momentarily turn off while the engine's being
started.

Did you ever pull the fuse from the bad channel and replace it or test
it with a meter? I've had fuses blow that still looked "good" until I
examined them very closely. At the very least, swap the two fuses and
see if the problem moves to the other channel.
--
Scott Gardner

"A billion hours ago, human life appeared on earth. A billion minutes ago, Christianity emerged. A billion Coca Colas ago was yesterday morning. " (from a Coca-Cola report)

  #14   Report Post  
joe.ker
 
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For his sake, I'm hoping the problem is just a blown fuse in the bad
channel. The last I heard from him, he had just looked at the fuse in
place - he hadn't removed it to examine it more closely, test it with
an ohmmeter, or to swap it with the other fuse in the amp or a new
fuse.


--
Scott Gardner

"If you sleep twelve hours a day, then the deployment will only be three
months long, not six!" (Navy JO saying)


The original poster said only half the amp was not working. the side that
was to the sub. the other half to the fronts was working ok
that's why I didn't mention checking fuse, because it is unlikely since half
the amp is working


  #15   Report Post  
Scott Gardner
 
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On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 14:40:40 GMT, "joe.ker"
wrote:



For his sake, I'm hoping the problem is just a blown fuse in the bad
channel. The last I heard from him, he had just looked at the fuse in
place - he hadn't removed it to examine it more closely, test it with
an ohmmeter, or to swap it with the other fuse in the amp or a new
fuse.


--
Scott Gardner

"If you sleep twelve hours a day, then the deployment will only be three
months long, not six!" (Navy JO saying)


The original poster said only half the amp was not working. the side that
was to the sub. the other half to the fronts was working ok
that's why I didn't mention checking fuse, because it is unlikely since half
the amp is working


But he also mentioned that the amp had two fuses. Most likely,
there's one for each channel.

--
Scott Gardner

"Any event, once it has occurred, can be made to appear inevitable by a competent historian". - Lee Simonson



  #16   Report Post  
bob wald
 
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be4 repairing any amp wiegh can you buy a better amp alil more or will
it break again.i've been down the fix it road b4.lol
once 1 thing breaks whats next? usually things get worse not better with
amps breaking.i'd fix it and sell it.if you can get more than double the
repair bill out of it. there is a chance it'll not break again for
awhile thou.i would gamble on it myself.......

  #17   Report Post  
joe.ker
 
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"Scott Gardner" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 14:40:40 GMT, "joe.ker"
wrote:



For his sake, I'm hoping the problem is just a blown fuse in the bad
channel. The last I heard from him, he had just looked at the fuse in
place - he hadn't removed it to examine it more closely, test it with
an ohmmeter, or to swap it with the other fuse in the amp or a new
fuse.


--
Scott Gardner

"If you sleep twelve hours a day, then the deployment will only be three
months long, not six!" (Navy JO saying)


The original poster said only half the amp was not working. the side that
was to the sub. the other half to the fronts was working ok
that's why I didn't mention checking fuse, because it is unlikely since
half
the amp is working


But he also mentioned that the amp had two fuses. Most likely,
there's one for each channel.

--
Scott Gardner

"Any event, once it has occurred, can be made to appear inevitable by a
competent historian". - Lee Simonson


It's possible, but in my 26 years I have never seen an amp that uses a
different fuse for each channel on the power side. They may have some, but
all the one's I've seen, the fuses are paralleled for the power supply and
not the audio. There are some amps that use smaller fuses on the audio
outputs, old Rockford's and Orion come to mind. so maybe the next question
is What brand model amp is it?



  #18   Report Post  
bob wald
 
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meant wouldnt gamble on it myself.
forget the fuses...things powering up n off wears parts in car audio.
thats what i'm talking about. you know on battery terminals you get crud
from the electricity flowing thou it.well any connection with
electricity can get that on it.
even inside radios/amps.i forget what that build up electicity leaves is
called.

  #19   Report Post  
MZ
 
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I guess it would depend on what the very first components are in the
circuit path when power is applied. The capacitors you mention appear
as dead shorts in the circuit until they've begun to charge, so that's
another example of a spike in turn-on current. Along the same lines,
what exactly is it that causes "turn-on 'thump' in amps"? Even if his
amp has circuitry to prevent the "thump", that circuitry itself must
have to deal with some kind of spike upon turn-on.


It's typically a disparity between the timing of source and amplifier
turnon. "Thump" circuitry tends to be an input circuit thing.


I realize it doesn't happen often, although I've had other electronic
devices fail upon initial powerup. The original poster was asking why
his amp would fail at turn-on rather than under use, and I was just
pointing out that initial application of power can be a risky time for
electronic devices.


Yeah, turn-on time usually is. But it's important to dissociate between
turn-on time (eg. light bulbs) and thermal cycles. If the last thermal
cycle was the culprit, then of course it'll manifest itself at turn-on.
Obviously you're not going to notice a difference at turn-off. But I've
generally found that amplifiers will go kaput at the worst possible time -
when you're playing a song you really like at full tilt.


  #20   Report Post  
MZ
 
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be4 repairing any amp wiegh can you buy a better amp alil more or will
it break again.i've been down the fix it road b4.lol
once 1 thing breaks whats next? usually things get worse not better with
amps breaking.i'd fix it and sell it.if you can get more than double the
repair bill out of it. there is a chance it'll not break again for
awhile thou.i would gamble on it myself.......


Amps are different from cars and houses. A lot of times, fixing the amp
will fix it for good. Unless it's a cheap crappy amp to begin with. I
still have amps that I fixed years ago and have worked flawless since. Last
year, I sold an MTX Blue Thunder amp that I had originally bought like 7
years prior. The "fix" was basically only resoldering a trace. A lot of
times, broken amps are the result of a loose connection which may not be
representative of the soldering/connections job internally.




  #21   Report Post  
bob wald
 
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ohh 'm sorry i didnt know your amps dont age or have wear n tear...yours
never run out.....
oh wait you said no amps ever wear out. ok
i guess your amp dont use electricity either.
electricity by itself can cause trouble.
glad i learned this from the pros here .

  #22   Report Post  
bob wald
 
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i just thunk this out. if i am wrong then why would any amps need to be
fixxed????
and dont say it was a manufactor defect.
if that was true it'd never work to start with.

  #23   Report Post  
Scott Gardner
 
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On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 12:23:44 -0400, "MZ"
wrote:

be4 repairing any amp wiegh can you buy a better amp alil more or will
it break again.i've been down the fix it road b4.lol
once 1 thing breaks whats next? usually things get worse not better with
amps breaking.i'd fix it and sell it.if you can get more than double the
repair bill out of it. there is a chance it'll not break again for
awhile thou.i would gamble on it myself.......


Amps are different from cars and houses. A lot of times, fixing the amp
will fix it for good. Unless it's a cheap crappy amp to begin with. I
still have amps that I fixed years ago and have worked flawless since. Last
year, I sold an MTX Blue Thunder amp that I had originally bought like 7
years prior. The "fix" was basically only resoldering a trace. A lot of
times, broken amps are the result of a loose connection which may not be
representative of the soldering/connections job internally.


I had an AudioContol EQX that was intermittent on one channel. There
was a fractured solder joint on one of the RCA connectors.
De-soldering it, cleaning it up, and re-soldering it fixed the problem
for good. It was still working fine when I gave it away ten years
later.

Mark's right - amps and other electronic devices don't really "wear
out" as much as they experience abrupt failures of individual
components. It's not uncommon to fix/replace the bad part and have
the device keep on truckin' for decades longer.
--
Scott Gardner

"Some mornings, it's just not worth chewing through the leather straps." (Emo Philips)

  #24   Report Post  
Christopher O'Callaghan
 
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I checked the fuses, switched them and with an multimeter; They're good...
Just seems to be that one channel; can it be that a soldering joint as gone
within the amp? cause the amp is powering up and one side of the 2 channels
is working?? maybe the power just isn't reaching the output for some reason?
The amp is an Audiobahn 4601T I'll let you's decide if its a good amp or
not..
I think it could also be the input terminal to the amp? Maybe within the
amp, a wore loose again? I Dunno. I live in Ireland, bought the amp from the
states so doubt my warranty will be good over here; Roughly how much would I
be looking at for a repair??

"Scott Gardner" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 15:02:56 +0100, "Christopher O'Callaghan"
wrote:

My car has no ac position; So the radio doesn't need the key turned or
even
in to turn on!!! I put the radio in and switched it on as I was sending a
text before starting my car; Well, the main thing I wanna know is, is my
amp
beyond repair?
"MZ" wrote in message
...
.i got stickers all on my dash says danger high voltage dont touch
stereo.lol

Sounds like a classy ride.



If your stereo is wired so that the key doesn't have to be in the
ignition to power the stereo, then you can get voltage spikes and
drops to your amplifier if you start the car with the stereo and
amplifier turned on. I'm not saying that's what caused the problem,
but all else being equal, there's a reason that factory stereos are
interlocked so that they momentarily turn off while the engine's being
started.

Did you ever pull the fuse from the bad channel and replace it or test
it with a meter? I've had fuses blow that still looked "good" until I
examined them very closely. At the very least, swap the two fuses and
see if the problem moves to the other channel.
--
Scott Gardner

"A billion hours ago, human life appeared on earth. A billion minutes ago,
Christianity emerged. A billion Coca Colas ago was yesterday morning. "
(from a Coca-Cola report)



  #27   Report Post  
Scott Gardner
 
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On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 19:08:41 +0100, "Christopher O'Callaghan"
wrote:

I checked the fuses, switched them and with an multimeter; They're good...
Just seems to be that one channel; can it be that a soldering joint as gone
within the amp? cause the amp is powering up and one side of the 2 channels
is working?? maybe the power just isn't reaching the output for some reason?
The amp is an Audiobahn 4601T I'll let you's decide if its a good amp or
not..
I think it could also be the input terminal to the amp? Maybe within the
amp, a wore loose again? I Dunno. I live in Ireland, bought the amp from the
states so doubt my warranty will be good over here; Roughly how much would I
be looking at for a repair??


Well, you've exhausted all of the easy/obvious stuff, so it's probably
time to take it to a shop if you'd like to keep the amp. Expect them
to charge you $50-75 to diagnose it, but they'll usually deduct that
amount off of your bill if you have it fixed.

I'm not familiar with that particular amp, other than having read the
spec sheet and the owner's manual, but Audiobahn is a pretty
well-respected brand. I'd at least have it checked out. If it's
going to be less than $100 to have it fixed, I'd have it fixed if it
were my amp.

Of course, if you've been looking to upgrade to a different amp, this
might be the perfect opportunity.

--
Scott Gardner

"The POP3 server service depends on the SMTP server service, which failed to start because of the following error: The operation completed successfully." (Windows NT Server v3.51)

  #28   Report Post  
Chad Wahls
 
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"bob wald" wrote in message
...
ohh 'm sorry i didnt know your amps dont age or have wear n tear...yours
never run out.....
oh wait you said no amps ever wear out. ok
i guess your amp dont use electricity either.
electricity by itself can cause trouble.
glad i learned this from the pros here .


"Wear" can happen as electrolytic caps "dry out" etc. Modern manufacturing
processes and component evolution dictates that wear is minimal on a
component level. Devices subject to excessive vibration can develop cracked
solder joints etc but this is an easy fix. Ususlly once it's fixed
correctly then it's fixed.

"Correctly" is if you pop a transistor on one channel replace all of it's
complementary transistors. Same with switching FETs. Components rarely
suffer wear these days as much as they suffer failure from abuse in car
audio. Once the faulty components are replaced and the others that took the
brunt of the blow from the failure then there is absolutely no reason for it
to perform as new for the longevity of a new device.

Chad


  #29   Report Post  
MZ
 
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ohh 'm sorry

Apology accepted. By the way, learn to quote the text you're replying to.
Not everybody uses a threaded newsreader. I had to switch to another
computer just to check to see if you were replying to me or someone else.

i didnt know your amps dont age or have wear n tear...yours
never run out.....
oh wait you said no amps ever wear out. ok


That's not what I said. I countered your ridiculous comment: "once 1 thing
breaks whats next? usually things get worse not better with amps breaking."
with a comment about how this isn't necessarily true. What is it exactly
that makes you think that when an amp breaks it'll be prone to breaking? As
I said, it's not like a car where it gathers rust on the underside so that
once your ball joints go you can expect a control arm or fuel lines or
whatever to go. There's really not much "wear" to be had on an amplifier,
short of thermal cycles or drying out capacitors or what have you. And if
you're at that point with your amplifier, then it's time to step out of the
'80s and buy a new one.

i guess your amp dont use electricity either.
electricity by itself can cause trouble.


Sure can. But then that's a problem with your car's electrical system, not
the amplifier.


  #30   Report Post  
MZ
 
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i just thunk this out.

Glad to see you've now started to think before typing replies. Hopefully it
becomes a trend.

if i am wrong then why would any amps need to be
fixxed????


Because they break. What do I win?

and dont say it was a manufactor defect.
if that was true it'd never work to start with.


Ok, now how does this have anything to do with your assertion that once an
amp breaks then it'll be more prone to breaking in the future?




  #31   Report Post  
bob wald
 
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ok fixxed a amp once then 2weeks laters something else then something
else.i talk from experience.please you are embarrassing your
selfs.....all electicial connetions when they make contact and sparks
leave a lil build up.
i had a switch n my ac last year.a switch that automatic wouldnt
disengage because the place it switches too had so much build up it
always made contact.and the ac ran all the time.
even when i turned it off.
it was like lead build up like 3/16s high.
coulda been 1/8.....but this thing was like 9 yrs old.....maybe 12.
but you use amps ALOT more that ac.

  #32   Report Post  
Mister.Lull
 
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I was under the impression that if things were wired correctly, then
there wouldn't be sparks thown... Maybe that's just the new-fangled
technology that I'm used to, though.
~Mister.Lull

  #33   Report Post  
scott johnson
 
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"bob wald" wrote in message
...
meant wouldnt gamble on it myself.
forget the fuses...things powering up n off wears parts in car audio.
thats what i'm talking about. you know on battery terminals you get crud
from the electricity flowing thou it.well any connection with
electricity can get that on it.
even inside radios/amps.i forget what that build up electicity leaves is
called.


uh, mr expert, it's called corrosion. and just because something has
electricity flowing thru it doesn't mean it will automatically corrode.


  #34   Report Post  
scott johnson
 
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"bob wald" wrote in message
...
ok fixxed a amp once then 2weeks laters something else then something
else.


this could be the result of customer abuse, a poor quality product, or a
poor repair job.


i talk from experience.please you are embarrassing your
selfs.....all electicial connetions when they make contact and sparks
leave a lil build up.


ok, but now you've changed your story. to quote your previous statement: "
you know on battery terminals you get crud from the electricity flowing thou
it.well any connection with electricity can get that on it. even inside
radios/amps.i forget what that build up electicity leaves is called."

see. two different statements. because you can't support the first
statement, you changed to something else.


i had a switch n my ac last year.a switch that automatic wouldnt
disengage because the place it switches too had so much build up it
always made contact.and the ac ran all the time.


i think that would be called a contactor (relay).


even when i turned it off.


yes, a common failure in HVAC systems. contactor arcing shut.


it was like lead build up like 3/16s high.
coulda been 1/8.....but this thing was like 9 yrs old.....maybe 12.


hell, that's a good life for a contactor, considering most are not sealed
and are exposed to open air.


but you use amps ALOT more that ac.


maybe.


  #35   Report Post  
scott johnson
 
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"bob wald" wrote in message
...
i just thunk this out.



the word you are looking for is "thought".


if i am wrong


you probably are.

then why would any amps need to be
fixxed????


parts fail. they have been failing for years. with reduced prices and
competition, there's not enough time to "burn in" and test every transistor
before it's sold to a manufacturer.

and dont say it was a manufactor defect.


um, no, it would be a component failure. if no components ever failed,
manufacturers wouldn't have to give warranties.

if that was true it'd never work to start with.


why not?





  #36   Report Post  
MZ
 
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ok fixxed a amp once

n=1, eh? So what was wrong with this amp?

then 2weeks laters something else then something
else


What else?

.i talk from experience.please you are embarrassing your
selfs.....all electicial connetions when they make contact and sparks
leave a lil build up.


What are you doing to make your amp spark?

i had a switch n my ac last year.a switch that automatic wouldnt
disengage because the place it switches too had so much build up it
always made contact.and the ac ran all the time.


What was "built up"? Are you sure it wasn't refrigerant or dust? Yeah, I
know, that sticky electricity is hard to get off.

even when i turned it off.
it was like lead build up like 3/16s high.
coulda been 1/8.....but this thing was like 9 yrs old.....maybe 12.
but you use amps ALOT more that ac.



  #37   Report Post  
bob wald
 
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i believe you 1 smart cookie. those were the words i were thinking of.
arking- contactor.
and all electrical connectons can have sparks..
and i dont mean 12inch sparks. a 1/16 spark.

  #38   Report Post  
scott johnson
 
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"bob wald" wrote in message
...
i believe you 1 smart cookie. those were the words i were thinking of.
arking- contactor.
and all electrical connectons can have sparks..
and i dont mean 12inch sparks. a 1/16 spark.


how can a solid,tight connection spark?


  #39   Report Post  
MZ
 
Posts: n/a
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i believe you 1 smart cookie. those were the words i were thinking of.
arking- contactor.
and all electrical connectons can have sparks..
and i dont mean 12inch sparks. a 1/16 spark.


Please explain to me which parts of an amp will "1/16" spark.


  #40   Report Post  
Chad Wahls
 
Posts: n/a
Default



bob wald wrote:
ok fixxed a amp once then 2weeks laters something else then something
else.i talk from experience.please you are embarrassing your
selfs.....all electicial connetions when they make contact and sparks
leave a lil build up.
i had a switch n my ac last year.a switch that automatic wouldnt
disengage because the place it switches too had so much build up it
always made contact.and the ac ran all the time.
even when i turned it off.
it was like lead build up like 3/16s high.
coulda been 1/8.....but this thing was like 9 yrs old.....maybe 12.
but you use amps ALOT more that ac.


Most amps don't have relays, thier protection scheme simply shuts down
the oscilator that drives the power supply. THERE IS NOTHING IN THERE
TO ARC. If there are solid component connections THERE IS NO ARCING.

I have seen instances in professional applications where speaker relays
will stick on, this is due to an amplifier delivering upwards of 100V
into a 4 ohm load and the relay energizing when there is full signal
present or in worst case an amp throwing rail DC, in this case the
relay is the least of your worries.

This occurs mostly in older amps such as crest and BGW. In fact if you
short a side of finals in a crest 8001 you automatically replace the
relay. Again part of "correct" repair procedures. Many modern pro amps
also have switching power supplies, they have no speaker relays, it
just drops the power supply.

Chad

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