Hey, I just got these subs that come in an enclosure and I was
wondering if anybody could help me find a good amp that would work with
them. I don't know how strong of an amp to get. The model number is
XNBP12D and it's made by Dual.

Thanks

www.ikesound.com

look for Directed Audio on the side menu of manufacturers.

Then look for the 750d amplifier. It's about 79$ + s&h but it is one ohm
stable which is GREAT is you decide to upgrade later. Or, you would wire
the entire system in parallel and have 1 ohm from that amp which would
supply the full 600rms that system is rated at. It would hands down be the
best amp for you, and what a great price. It is capable of supplying more
power than you need, but if my suspicions suit me right, you will get sick
of that setup sooner or later because it looks alot better than it sounds.
You should really try to stay away from prefabricated boxes

According to
http://www.mysimon.com/Car-Speakers-...l?pid=25899277
those speakers are dual 4 ohm speakers and are capable of handing a total of
600w rms. I would assume that they would probably work alot better with
more like 400w rms. . I dont know how they are wired, so that will make an
impact on how much power they draw, but I will assume the setup is wired for
a full 2ohm load.

--
- AUSTIN BECKER
wrote in message
oups.com...
Hey, I just got these subs that come in an enclosure and I was
wondering if anybody could help me find a good amp that would work with
them. I don't know how strong of an amp to get. The model number is
XNBP12D and it's made by Dual.

Thanks

If you dont mind taking the speakers out of that enclosure to change the
wiring up to suit your amp, here is a link that will show you all of the
possible wiring options. Just put "2" in the "Select Woofer Quantity"
section, and put "Dual Voice Coil - 4 ohms x 2" in the "Select Woofer
Impedance" section, and click go. It will tell you where to connect wires
to the positive and negative terminals, and what kind of impedance your amp
would see. If you do decide to go with that 750D amp from Directed Audio,
go with the first diagram that says the load would be 1ohm. It would use
that amp to it's full potential, and be stable. Just be careful how high
(probably in the 75-80% range) you set your gains on your amp when you get
it, and dont mess around with anything that says something like "bass boost"
cuz with that much power, you shouldn't have to worry about it.

--
- AUSTIN BECKER
wrote in message
oups.com...
Hey, I just got these subs that come in an enclosure and I was
wondering if anybody could help me find a good amp that would work with
them. I don't know how strong of an amp to get. The model number is
XNBP12D and it's made by Dual.

Thanks

I did a little more reading, and they have that setup for 8 ohms
impedance... take that cover off, and change that crap

--
- AUSTIN BECKER
wrote in message
oups.com...
Hey, I just got these subs that come in an enclosure and I was
wondering if anybody could help me find a good amp that would work with
them. I don't know how strong of an amp to get. The model number is
XNBP12D and it's made by Dual.

Thanks

The 750D says it only gives out 275 watts at 4 ohms. How do I get the
600 watts out of it because the subs are 4 ohms. Do you personally
think those subs are good?

Also, do you think the Profile California AP1000 would work?

How about hte Profile HA1000 amp?

Those subs are 4ohm single voice coil subs. There is two ways to wire that
setup. From one of the websites I read, they are wired in series within the
box for a total load of 8 ohms which will draw very minimal power out of any
amplifier. If I were you, I would take the Plexiglas off of the enclosure,
remove the speakers, and rearrange the wiring to reflect that of the link I
gave you about wiring (the picture link in this message). Run a wire from
the terminal cup on the enclosure (where the speaker wires enter the box)
from the negative terminal to the negative terminal on each of the speakers.
Than, do the same for the positive side as well. You want them to be set up
like this...
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftec...hmSVC_2ohm.gif This
is called parallel wiring. It cuts the impedance in half, which draws more
power from your amplifier. This way, you are drawing much more power to the
speakers. They are rated for a total of 600w rms (300w rms each), but I
would not run that much power to them. I do not think that those subs are
very good, and I personally would not buy anything that came in a ready made
enclosure. There are tons of website that can teach you how to build a
subwoofer enclosure. There are parameters on what makes a speaker perform
optimally, and 99% of prefab boxes are not built with those parameters in
mind, they are built to be attractive and catch people's eyes. Like I said,
if you do not want to rid yourself of that setup, get the 750D amplifier,
wire your speakers in parallel, and keep your gains at about 75%. This way,
your amplifier is not distorting, and it will not harm your speakers.

--
- AUSTIN BECKER
wrote in message
oups.com...
The 750D says it only gives out 275 watts at 4 ohms. How do I get the
600 watts out of it because the subs are 4 ohms. Do you personally
think those subs are good?

Don't buy profile amps. Please do not sell yourself short on price. When
it comes to car audio, you get what you pay for. The reason those Directed
Audio amps are so much less expensive is because they are refurbish... But
do not let that take away from there quality. They are great amps, and
recommended by a ton of car audio enthusiasts. Not to mention that they
come with a 90 day warranty if you buy from that site. If you find them on
eBay (Type in "Directed Audio" in the search field) and buy them from
Ike-Sound on eBay, you can get the square trade warranty which is far better
(even been quoted by many consumers as well as ikesound employees how much
better that deal is).

--
- AUSTIN BECKER
wrote in message
oups.com...
How about hte Profile HA1000 amp?

do you think the Directed Audio 350D would be good?

Yes, it will work, and is a good amp, but is not the best for your
application. You will only be giving the speakers half of what they are
capable of. I am going to assume that you have a small price range? Why
not save up for a little bit, and get one that will power your speakers
right.... or if you do want to get that amp..... Return your subs, and the
money you get for them, take and buy a single 12" dual 4 ohm voice coil that
is capable of handling 300w rms like an alpine type S. They have one on
that same web site for $75 plus shipping, and cheaper on eBay... or another
alternative would be the Pioneer TS-W126DVC of the TS-W306DVC which are both
capable of handling that power and go for about $65 shipped and are
reputable speakers. I see that setup that you have goes for $90-$120 on
ebay. I dont know where you got it from, but if you were to return that
setup to where it came from, you could go to www.ikesound.com and get the
350D and the Pioneer sub for $140 shipped, and you would need is a wiring
kit, which would be about $20 more. That would be your best route, in my
humble opinion.


--
- AUSTIN BECKER
wrote in message
oups.com...
do you think the Directed Audio 350D would be good?

I can go to about 120 on an amp. I'm going to need an amp that gives
600w rms at 2 ohms if I rewire it. What would I need if I don't rewire?

The way it is wired right now, it will draw so little power from the amp
that you could put a 2000w @ 2 ohm amp on there and maybe get 600w. Just do
the rewire, and buy an inexpensive (750D would be great) amp that will power
them right. Are you familiar with how impedance works on speakers and
amplifiers? Short lesson... the higher the impedance the less power you
draw.... the difference between 2 ohms and 8 ohms is UNREAL!!!!! That would
make your system SOOO much louder and cleaner (depending upon how you set
your gain on your amp). I am telling you... just get a screwdriver
(electric is quicker), take that plexi off, take the subs out, and wire them
in parallel. You will not be sorry. If you dont, you will be very
frustrated by the lack of bass coming from that setup. Also another thing
to keep in mind with gains (aside from not cranking them anyway) is that in
a ported enclosure, the subs will be more prone to vibrating beyond their
limits. Sealed boxes act like the little plastic things in the shower that
hold your soap or whatever. They for a seal, and the sub can only come so
far out from the box while it is playing before the pressure inside the box
draws it back towards the neutral position. In a ported box, that seal is
non existent allowing the speaker to oscillate MUCH further than a sealed
enclosure. That can also ruin your subs if you cram too much power at them.
This is why you should be cautious on your gains as well.

--
- AUSTIN BECKER
wrote in message
ups.com...
I can go to about 120 on an amp. I'm going to need an amp that gives
600w rms at 2 ohms if I rewire it. What would I need if I don't rewire?

Instead of this Dual system, what do you suggest? I have a budget of
about $250 for the amp, speakers, and enclosuer. I want to get 12 inch
subs, but if you think something smaller, and that costs less can give
me the same sound then I'd do that instead.

Do you feel like you need sub"s" or will a single sub do? how much power
are you wanting to suck out of your alternator? If the remainder of your
speakers are stock, I would draw the line around 500w not knowing what type
of component speakers and whatnot that you have. My personal suggestion
would be to check out an Alpine type R 12" dual 4 ohm voice coils (wired
parallel to achieve 2 ohms). These run about $125 shipped on ebay or
ikesound, and are capable of handling 500w continuously (rms). The Directed
Audio 750d to power it, as it will provide 400w rms when wired at 2 ohms.
This runs about $100 shipped on ebay or ikesound. finally, take the
remaining $25-30 and go to home depot, get 2 pieces of 2'x4' MDF (like $6
each), some silicone caulk to seal your enclosure, some screws (please
research www.caraudioforum.com and find how to properly make a enclosure)
and put it together yourself. Home Depot will even cut the MDF to the
dimensions that you want on the spot free of charge. Get a $10 wiring kit
from a local car audio store (8 gauge should be plenty for a 400w system.
Don't go any smaller than 8 gauge (remember smaller wire is higher gauge).
This should put you right at $250, and I will almost bet my life it will
sound better than that setup you showed me. That is all a matter of opinion
because sound quality is in the ear of the beholder, but I assure you that
setup was not built for SQ. It was built for stealing your $$$.

--
- AUSTIN BECKER
wrote in message
oups.com...
Instead of this Dual system, what do you suggest? I have a budget of
about $250 for the amp, speakers, and enclosuer. I want to get 12 inch
subs, but if you think something smaller, and that costs less can give
me the same sound then I'd do that instead.

If having 2 subs is a must for you, I would visit here...
http://cgi.ebay.com/2-ROCKFORD-FOSGA...QQcmdZViewItem

Those are pretty good subs for the money. My wife has one in her car, and
sounds great.. her's is an older model of the same type but 200w rms.
sounds great... two of those and this amp....

http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/2280

If you haven't noticed, I am a fan of DEI (Directed Electronics). They are
the company that makes (not made by) Viper, Orion, Precision Power, and many
other higher end amplifiers. They are great. With that setup, you'd be
using 300w rms total (150w per speaker which is exactly their rating) and
have more money left over to build you a nice box, or have a local car audio
shop build you one. Like I said home depot will probably cut whatever wood
you buy for free so you could try your luck at building your own...

use this for a wiring kit...

http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/2939

that would total about $212, and leave you with some extra dough. You'd be
putting 100w less to two speakers though. It's all a matter of your
personal opinion. I am not a dealer, so I am not going to reccomend you buy
some specific type of product, but with your budget, that's where I'd start
in my opinion.

--
- AUSTIN BECKER
"Austin Becker" wrote in message
news:P4rsf.680275$xm3.613400@attbi_s21...
Do you feel like you need sub"s" or will a single sub do? how much power
are you wanting to suck out of your alternator? If the remainder of your
speakers are stock, I would draw the line around 500w not knowing what
type
of component speakers and whatnot that you have. My personal suggestion
would be to check out an Alpine type R 12" dual 4 ohm voice coils (wired
parallel to achieve 2 ohms). These run about $125 shipped on ebay or
ikesound, and are capable of handling 500w continuously (rms). The
Directed
Audio 750d to power it, as it will provide 400w rms when wired at 2 ohms.
This runs about $100 shipped on ebay or ikesound. finally, take the
remaining $25-30 and go to home depot, get 2 pieces of 2'x4' MDF (like $6
each), some silicone caulk to seal your enclosure, some screws (please
research www.caraudioforum.com and find how to properly make a enclosure)
and put it together yourself. Home Depot will even cut the MDF to the
dimensions that you want on the spot free of charge. Get a $10 wiring kit
from a local car audio store (8 gauge should be plenty for a 400w system.
Don't go any smaller than 8 gauge (remember smaller wire is higher gauge).
This should put you right at $250, and I will almost bet my life it will
sound better than that setup you showed me. That is all a matter of
opinion
because sound quality is in the ear of the beholder, but I assure you that
setup was not built for SQ. It was built for stealing your $$$.

--
- AUSTIN BECKER
wrote in message
oups.com...
Instead of this Dual system, what do you suggest? I have a budget of
about $250 for the amp, speakers, and enclosuer. I want to get 12 inch
subs, but if you think something smaller, and that costs less can give
me the same sound then I'd do that instead.

Thanks for everything, and also I went to Best Buy the other day and
returned those subs. I saw some Power Acoustik subs on sale and was
wondering if you thought those were any good? Also, they said
installation was $60 and the wires were $90. Are you sure the wires you
showed me are the right type?

$90 is rather a ripoff. Probably selling Monster Cable at an inflated
price. Online prices are much better and you really don't need "special"
cable. With the amp that has been suggested, 8AWG will be just fine. The
terminals are actually designed for it. I've got several Directed
amplifiers myself.

The Power Acoustik subs will probably work, but are generally considered
to be of lesser quality than the likes of Rockford Fosgate. There are a
great many good brands out there though and improved manufacturing
processes are making the differences smaller and smaller. Some companies
you buy a lot for the name alone.

Brandonb


wrote:
Thanks for everything, and also I went to Best Buy the other day and
returned those subs. I saw some Power Acoustik subs on sale and was
wondering if you thought those were any good? Also, they said
installation was $60 and the wires were $90. Are you sure the wires you
showed me are the right type?

I'm pretty sure this is what they wanted me to buy...

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1051826176310

Which is the same thing that Austin linked to, but with different color
wires (same length even), and has a matching RCA cable with it. So for
the price of $71.04 for a 16.4' RCA cable, I'd just buy one. That can
buy you a damn nice RCA cable, which is still not needed.

Here, same thing, WITH the RCA cable: (different color though)

http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/2938

I guess its all how much you want to spend on aesthetics. I mean, that's
what art is all about

OR, the EXACT same thing as Best Buy (same model number), but half the
price:

http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/1564


Brandonb


wrote:
I'm pretty sure this is what they wanted me to buy...

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1051826176310

OK, well for subs I just need to know if I should get these....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...keTra ck=true

or...
Pioneer TS-W306DVC or Pioneer TS-W306C

Which pair do you think is going to be the best sounding?

I don't think either one will really sound "better". Your looking at very
comparable subs. Personal preference would be the Pioneer's. But that is
just me.

Les

wrote in message
oups.com...
OK, well for subs I just need to know if I should get these....


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...omMakeTra ck=
true

or...
Pioneer TS-W306DVC or Pioneer TS-W306C

Which pair do you think is going to be the best sounding?

HAHAHA, they are both Pioneers... the difference is the Voice Coil
configuration. If your amp is 2 ohm stable, get the DVC model. If not, get
the C model. They are the exact same sub with different voice coils (this
only changes the configuration options.

--
- AUSTIN BECKER
"Les" wrote in message
...
I don't think either one will really sound "better". Your looking at very
comparable subs. Personal preference would be the Pioneer's. But that is
just me.

Les

wrote in message
oups.com...
OK, well for subs I just need to know if I should get these....



http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...omMakeTra ck=
true

or...
Pioneer TS-W306DVC or Pioneer TS-W306C

Which pair do you think is going to be the best sounding?

So, for two of the DVC model subs, should I use the directed audio 750D?

Yes, that amp would work. For two of them, I'd get the 1100D, but that's
about $30 more, so it may be out of your range. The 750D will work great
though. That is actually the same setup I was considering purchasing.

--
- AUSTIN BECKER
wrote in message
oups.com...
So, for two of the DVC model subs, should I use the directed audio 750D?

And, because the amp that you are buying is 1 ohm stable (which is a good
thing) I would wire your subs like this when they come in.
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftec...hmDVC_1ohm.gif That
will have your subs pulling all 600w out of that amp at 1 ohm. Just make
sure that your car's electrical system can handle that. If you can, buy an
extra 15-20 ft of some 4 gauge power wire, and follow this link...
http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/u...=5;t=007801;p=,
that should help your car out a good bit, not only with audio, but with
throttle response and other things.
--
- AUSTIN BECKER
wrote in message
oups.com...
So, for two of the DVC model subs, should I use the directed audio 750D?

I actually am putting this in a fairly old car. It's a 1998 Jeep Grand
Cherokee Limited. Do you think I should just get one sub so I don't
drain the electrical system?

I am not real familiar with Jeeps electrical system, but with that much air
space in your car, I think one sub would still be Rockin!

--
- AUSTIN BECKER
wrote in message
oups.com...
I actually am putting this in a fairly old car. It's a 1998 Jeep Grand
Cherokee Limited. Do you think I should just get one sub so I don't
drain the electrical system?

HAHAHAHA,

The subwoofer referenced in the link is a Rockford Fosgate! The other subs
he is mentioning are Pioneers, with different VC configs. My personal
preference is the Pioneers, I would not comment on VC configs without
knowing the amp.

Although, the first time I read through I thought he was asking about which
would sound better, the SVC or the DVC. But then I noticed the OR and
realized he was comparing the sub in the link OR the Pioneers.

Les

"Austin Becker" wrote in message
news:nR4tf.443500$084.440902@attbi_s22...
HAHAHA, they are both Pioneers... the difference is the Voice Coil
configuration. If your amp is 2 ohm stable, get the DVC model. If not,
get
the C model. They are the exact same sub with different voice coils (this
only changes the configuration options.

--
- AUSTIN BECKER
"Les" wrote in message
...
I don't think either one will really sound "better". Your looking at
very
comparable subs. Personal preference would be the Pioneer's. But that is
just me.

Les

wrote in message
oups.com...
OK, well for subs I just need to know if I should get these....




http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...omMakeTra ck=
true

or...
Pioneer TS-W306DVC or Pioneer TS-W306C

Which pair do you think is going to be the best sounding?

I just ordered the TS-W306DVC for my car. I'll let you all know how I like
it when I get it.

--
- AUSTIN BECKER
"Les" wrote in message
...
HAHAHAHA,

The subwoofer referenced in the link is a Rockford Fosgate! The other subs
he is mentioning are Pioneers, with different VC configs. My personal
preference is the Pioneers, I would not comment on VC configs without
knowing the amp.

Although, the first time I read through I thought he was asking about
which
would sound better, the SVC or the DVC. But then I noticed the OR and
realized he was comparing the sub in the link OR the Pioneers.

Les

"Austin Becker" wrote in message
news:nR4tf.443500$084.440902@attbi_s22...
HAHAHA, they are both Pioneers... the difference is the Voice Coil
configuration. If your amp is 2 ohm stable, get the DVC model. If not,
get
the C model. They are the exact same sub with different voice coils
(this
only changes the configuration options.

--
- AUSTIN BECKER
"Les" wrote in message
...
I don't think either one will really sound "better". Your looking at
very
comparable subs. Personal preference would be the Pioneer's. But that
is
just me.

Les

wrote in message
oups.com...
OK, well for subs I just need to know if I should get these....





http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...omMakeTra ck=
true

or...
Pioneer TS-W306DVC or Pioneer TS-W306C

Which pair do you think is going to be the best sounding?

I have the Alpine MRP-M350

--
- AUSTIN BECKER
wrote in message
oups.com...
Thanks a lot. What amp did you get with it?

How are the subs?

I love mine... I got it in a 1.36 cube box (speaker displacement is .11
cubes so it is right at 1.25 which is optimal), and I love it. It does
everything that I was hoping it would to. It isn't a whole ton louder than
my 10" RF sub was, but it is noticeable, and it is exactly what I wanted. I
haven't had time to play around much with it's positioning in my trunk cuz I
started working a new schedule this week, but if we are not to broken at
work tonight (I work the flight line at an Air Force Base on fighter jets) I
am going to go sit down and play around with some differnt options. Right
now, I have the box (24"W x 14"H x 10"D) laying on it's back and firing up
into the trunk deck separating the trunk from the cab, and that's the best
so far. I'm going to play with angling it around, trying to find the least
cancellation with the windows up (since it is winter time). How's yours?

--
- AUSTIN BECKER
wrote in message
ups.com...
How are the subs?

I haven't ordered them yet. I'm a student and for the past month have
been working on mid-year exams and term papers so I've been pretty
busy. They're over now though so I'll hopefully get them within the
next week. Glad to hear they're good....now I'm not so hesitant to get
them.

you still going with 2 of them? I bet that will sound pretty mean. I wish
I had some extra money, cuz I'd go and get me a nice one ohm stable amp, and
throw another in the trunk. Are you going to build your own box? The
manual recommends 1.25 cubes, so I went with that. I'm glad too, because I
am pretty sure I am getting optimal performance out of this sub. My trunk
is rattling a tiny bit on the lid separating the trunk from the cab, so I
gotta find a way to get that off (tried this morning, but it's much more
difficult than it initially looked), and get some rubber spacers in there to
keep it from making any contact. I got all of the rattle spots marked that
I could find, but it really doesn't rattle really much at all. Anyway, keep
me(us) posted.

--
- AUSTIN BECKER
wrote in message
ups.com...
I haven't ordered them yet. I'm a student and for the past month have
been working on mid-year exams and term papers so I've been pretty
busy. They're over now though so I'll hopefully get them within the
next week. Glad to hear they're good....now I'm not so hesitant to get
them.

I'm just going to stick with one and see how that works out. If it
doesn't give me enough bang I'll throw in another. I think I'm going to
buy a box off ebay. As I get stuff set up I'll let you know.

Well, if you don't know if you're only going to like one, I would strongly
suggest buying an amp that is one ohm stable that puts out 1000W rms @ 1 ohm
and 500W rms or more @ 2 ohms so that your amp can supply these things.
They are pretty sweet though. Whenever you get your stuff together, post
another topic about it. It's kinda a pain to have to scroll through so many
messages looking for this one. Anyhow, good luck.... here's the deal with
buying a box...... I've heard allot of bad about those... Just look for this
when you do it..... Needs to be at least 1.15 to 1.5 cubic feet. Needs to
be 3/4" MDF or better. Smaller has a tendency to flex limiting your
subwoofers performance, make sure that you get it sealed, because ported
boxes have to be built specifically for your sub. Don't just throw any
ported box in with your sub, or it will sound crappy. Make sure the box
comes from a person with really high feedback. Some people sell shotty
boxes on eBay. http://www.woodlawncabinetry.com/ Here's a website for a
guy that's on www.caraudioforum.com who many have bought from and say his
product is great. Hope yours sounds as great as mine. Take it easy.

--
- AUSTIN BECKER
wrote in message
oups.com...
I'm just going to stick with one and see how that works out. If it
doesn't give me enough bang I'll throw in another. I think I'm going to
buy a box off ebay. As I get stuff set up I'll let you know.