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Would power source run directly from the battery deliver more power to
headunit and amp?
I asked audio tech. They said may or maynot. They said only thing need
to operate from
direct battery power is a big subwoofer. I guess I'm not using big
subwoofer I don't need a directly
battery power. Even I run a direct battery source it won't make the
power different.

[MOSFET]

Oh boy, MMDIR is back. Look out....

DO NOT ask him what he thinks of the Chinese (I dare you).

To answer your question, MMDIR, you should connect any outboard amplifiers
directly to your battery (whether they are sub amps or not). But it is not
necessary to connect your HU (head unit) directly to the battery (nor will
it make any difference if you do).

MOSFET


wrote in message
oups.com...

Would power source run directly from the battery deliver more power to
headunit and amp?
I asked audio tech. They said may or maynot. They said only thing need
to operate from
direct battery power is a big subwoofer. I guess I'm not using big
subwoofer I don't need a directly
battery power. Even I run a direct battery source it won't make the
power different.

[KU40]

would a direct connection run more power as compared to what? running
it from your tail lights? nuclear reactor?


--
KU40

[GregS]

In article , KU40 wrote:

would a direct connection run more power as compared to what? running
it from your tail lights? nuclear reactor?

OEM units are wired with modest siring size, allthough the unit is close
to the firewall. It can pull almost 6 amps or more. There is probably more resistance in the fuses and connectors than
in the wire itself. Take a small equivalant resistance of perhaps .1 ohm.
That will drop .6 volts at 6 amps draw. That you can pretty much forget about a major change, but you also
have to consider the speaker wire size just as important in maintaing power.

greg

[D.Kreft]

wrote:

Would power source run directly from the battery deliver more power to
headunit and amp?

At the shop I used to work, for high-end systems, we used to run a
power and ground (12 AWG, IIRC) for the head unit (and any pre-amp
devices that weren't phantom-powered) all the way back to the power
distribution block at the rear of the vehicle where all of the system's
fuses were. The super-high end systems even used 10 AWG wire, believe
it or not.

The idea is to avoid the vehicle's noisy electrical system and to
reduce the possibility of introducing ground loops, which also inject
noise (engine whine) into the system.

So, will it help you? I don't know, but it probably wouldn't hurt.

-dan