Alright, this is a presistant problem and I'm starting to get ****ed
lol.

My old AMP (Soundstorm 500.2) would randomly cut off after 10 minutes
of use, then randomly come back on only to shut off again a few minutes
later.

The car is wired with all 4-gauge wire straight to the battery.
Everything seemed fine, so we decided the problem was the amp.

Replaced the amp with a Nitro BMW series 1200w. Thought the problem was
solved. Wrong, it cut out again while driving. I checked for loose
wiring behind my Pioneer headunit, but they were fine. It is grounded
from a 1.5ft 4-gauge wire on a lugnut in the trunk.

I honestly have NO idea what could be wrong. My head is really starting
to hurt thinking about it. Maybe it might need a capacitor? Is it
trying to draw too much power that the battery can't handle?

With best regards, Mike

My old AMP (Soundstorm 500.2) would randomly cut off after 10 minutes
of use, then randomly come back on only to shut off again a few minutes
later.

The car is wired with all 4-gauge wire straight to the battery.
Everything seemed fine, so we decided the problem was the amp.

Replaced the amp with a Nitro BMW series 1200w. Thought the problem was
solved. Wrong, it cut out again while driving. I checked for loose
wiring behind my Pioneer headunit, but they were fine. It is grounded
from a 1.5ft 4-gauge wire on a lugnut in the trunk.

I honestly have NO idea what could be wrong. My head is really starting
to hurt thinking about it. Maybe it might need a capacitor? Is it
trying to draw too much power that the battery can't handle?

With best regards, Mike

Someone wrote recently with a very similar problem and I will tell you what
I told this person.

If I were you, the first thing I would check is input voltage. Get your
hands on a multimeter and check the voltage at the amplifier. When amps
turn off after 10 minutes or so, and then turn on and off intermitently,
this is often because they are employing some type of protection circuit.
It may be because the input voltage is dropping below some predermined point
(like 9 or 10 volts). After most cars have been running for a few minutes,
their voltage drops a bit and maybe you have a problem with your car's
voltage regulator.

Also, if your amp is only receiving 10 or 11 volts, it will need to draw
much more current to achieve the desired watts (no way around Ohm's law!).
This will cause your amp to run much hotter and may activate a thermal
protection circuit (shutting it down until it cools).

Anyway, this where I would start.

MOSFET

How many volts is an amp suppose to recieve?

Would a capacitor / new battery fix the problem?

You don't think it's my alternator do you?

99 saturn SC2
96000 miles

"Mike" wrote in message
oups.com...
How many volts is an amp suppose to recieve?

Would a capacitor / new battery fix the problem?

You don't think it's my alternator do you?

99 saturn SC2
96000 miles

When the engine is running, your amp should be getting between 13 and 14.4
volts. No, a capacitor would not fix this particular type of problem. A
capacitor helps maintain a certain voltage by dumping current into an
amplifier. It cannot, however, RAISE the voltage.

It may be a problem with your alternator or possibly the battery, but again
you will not know until you perform a voltage test. Perform the test and
let us know what you find.

MOSFET

Mike wrote:
How many volts is an amp suppose to recieve?

Would a capacitor / new battery fix the problem?

You don't think it's my alternator do you?

99 saturn SC2
96000 miles

It's all +12 volt.
I think the problem is the connection between the AMP main +12
to the battery. Don't make straight connection from AMP
the battery because the battery voltage fluctuate while you driving the
car while the AMP voltage fluctates. Just make connect to the regular
+12 voltage like a cigar lite voltage.

"It's all +12 volt. I think the problem is the connection between the AMP
main +12
to the battery. Don't make straight connection from AMP the battery because
the battery voltage fluctuate while you driving the car while the AMP
voltage fluctates. Just make connect to the regular +12 voltage like a
cigar lite voltage."

You clearly have absolutley no business giving anyone any advice about car
audio. Go find another usenet group.

Tony



--
2001 Nissan Maxima SE Anniversary Edition
Eclipse CD8454 Head Unit, Phoenix Gold ZX475ti, ZX450 and ZX500 Amplifiers,
Phoenix Gold EQ-232 30-Band EQ, Dynaudio System 360 Tri-Amped In Front and
Focal 130HCs For Rear Fill, 2 Soundstream EXACT10s In Aperiodic Enclosure

2001 Chevy S10 ZR2
Pioneer DEH-P9600MP (Just gettin' started)

wrote in message
oups.com...

Mike wrote:
How many volts is an amp suppose to recieve?

Would a capacitor / new battery fix the problem?

You don't think it's my alternator do you?

99 saturn SC2
96000 miles

It's all +12 volt.
I think the problem is the connection between the AMP main +12
to the battery. Don't make straight connection from AMP
the battery because the battery voltage fluctuate while you driving the
car while the AMP voltage fluctates. Just make connect to the regular
+12 voltage like a cigar lite voltage.

wrote in message
oups.com...

Mike wrote:
How many volts is an amp suppose to recieve?

Would a capacitor / new battery fix the problem?

You don't think it's my alternator do you?

99 saturn SC2
96000 miles

It's all +12 volt.
I think the problem is the connection between the AMP main +12
to the battery. Don't make straight connection from AMP
the battery because the battery voltage fluctuate while you driving the
car while the AMP voltage fluctates. Just make connect to the regular
+12 voltage like a cigar lite voltage.


*yawn*
ya know, some day, after everyone here grows tired of you and killfiles you,
with noone looking to tell them different, some fool will actually believe
your nonsense and catch his car on fire..
then they will be looking for you.. and some of the more net-savy regulars
will be happy to help them..

Did a little testing before and after work.

Started the car, with music off the amp was getting 14.8 volts.

Drove for about 20 minutes, was getting 14 volts, off

With music on after being already on for 30 or so minutes, it was
getting between 12.1 and 13.3 volts, flunctuating, never below 12.

Is this a sign of anything?

note: it didn't turn off today.

with noone looking to tell them different, some fool will actually believe
your nonsense and catch his car on fire..
then they will be looking for you.. and some of the more net-savy regulars
will be happy to help them..

lol
I'm comforted (a bit) in the thought that no one will take his advice
because no one will have even the slimmest clue what he is talking about.

Anyway, Mike, back to you....

Well that sounds like pretty normal voltage to me so that may not be the
problem. But like you said, it didn't turn off. Alternator problems are
often intermittent so, if possible, have your voltmeter handy and measure
the voltage when it turns off. Also, I meant to ask you before, when your
amp shuts off, is it really hot? This would tell us if it is possibly
employing a thermal protection switch.

I think the key here is to try and gather info the minute it shuts off.
Intermittent alternator problems are very common. Beyond that, there really
isn't much I can tell you without more info.

MOSFET

Not hot at all, each amp had internal cooling, this one has two fans on
it, and the red protection light does not come on with either of the
amps. My friend said he knows how to wire the subs more efficiently so
it would take some stress off the amp (hes the original person who
wired my car). He has done around 10 cars so far so i'm in hope that he
knows what hes doing.

" Not hot at all, each amp had internal cooling, this one has two fans on
it, and the red protection light does not come on with either of the
amps. My friend said he knows how to wire the subs more efficiently so
it would take some stress off the amp (hes the original person who
wired my car). He has done around 10 cars so far so i'm in hope that he
knows what hes doing.

OK, wait a minute. Stress off the amp? Is your amp stressed? That could
be the problem. Why don't you tell us exactly what speakers that amp is
driving and (most important) EXACTLY how they are wired (voice coils wired
in series/parellel?). If you are trying to drive too low an impedence load,
this would cause the amp to shut down. If this does appear to be the case
(and you are driving two or more subs), an obvious test would be to hook up
just one sub and see what happens.

Don't worry. We'll get there!

MOSFET

Tony F wrote:
"It's all +12 volt. I think the problem is the connection between the
AMP
main +12
to the battery. Don't make straight connection from AMP the battery
because
the battery voltage fluctuate while you driving the car while the AMP

voltage fluctates. Just make connect to the regular +12 voltage
like a
cigar lite voltage."

You clearly have absolutley no business giving anyone any advice
about car
audio. Go find another usenet group.

Tony


Why?





--
2001 Nissan Maxima SE Anniversary Edition
Eclipse CD8454 Head Unit, Phoenix Gold ZX475ti, ZX450 and ZX500
Amplifiers,
Phoenix Gold EQ-232 30-Band EQ, Dynaudio System 360 Tri-Amped In
Front and
Focal 130HCs For Rear Fill, 2 Soundstream EXACT10s In Aperiodic
Enclosure

2001 Chevy S10 ZR2
Pioneer DEH-P9600MP (Just gettin' started)

wrote in message
oups.com...

Mike wrote:
How many volts is an amp suppose to recieve?

Would a capacitor / new battery fix the problem?

You don't think it's my alternator do you?

99 saturn SC2
96000 miles

It's all +12 volt.
I think the problem is the connection between the AMP main +12
to the battery. Don't make straight connection from AMP
the battery because the battery voltage fluctuate while you driving
the
car while the AMP voltage fluctates. Just make connect to the
regular
+12 voltage like a cigar lite voltage.

Dark1 wrote:
wrote in message
oups.com...

Mike wrote:
How many volts is an amp suppose to recieve?

Would a capacitor / new battery fix the problem?

You don't think it's my alternator do you?

99 saturn SC2
96000 miles

It's all +12 volt.
I think the problem is the connection between the AMP main +12
to the battery. Don't make straight connection from AMP
the battery because the battery voltage fluctuate while you driving
the
car while the AMP voltage fluctates. Just make connect to the
regular
+12 voltage like a cigar lite voltage.


*yawn*
ya know, some day, after everyone here grows tired of you and
killfiles you,
with noone looking to tell them different, some fool will actually
believe
your nonsense and catch his car on fire..
then they will be looking for you.. and some of the more net-savy
regulars
will be happy to help them..


Sure you ignore from the expert. I'm an electrican. I don't go any
stereo
shop to install my stereo because I know more about stereo than those
guys.

Only idiot make a direct connection from battery to a amp. You can't
make that
connection.

MOSFET wrote:
with noone looking to tell them different, some fool will actually
believe
your nonsense and catch his car on fire..
then they will be looking for you.. and some of the more net-savy
regulars
will be happy to help them..

lol
I'm comforted (a bit) in the thought that no one will take his advice
because no one will have even the slimmest clue what he is talking
about.

Anyway, Mike, back to you....

Well that sounds like pretty normal voltage to me so that may not be
the
problem. But like you said, it didn't turn off. Alternator problems
are
often intermittent so, if possible, have your voltmeter handy and
measure
the voltage when it turns off. Also, I meant to ask you before, when
your
amp shuts off, is it really hot? This would tell us if it is
possibly
employing a thermal protection switch.

I think the key here is to try and gather info the minute it shuts
off.
Intermittent alternator problems are very common. Beyond that, there
really
isn't much I can tell you without more info.

MOSFET


I agree that alternotor problem is common which is why I gave opinion
not
to make direct connection to the battery. In old day, no car stereo
make
a direction connection to the battery since the battery is connected to
the alternator as an alternator problem might led to stereo problem.
Too bad I was not give a bad advice, right!

On 20 Feb 2005 23:04:27 -0800, wrote:


Tony F wrote:
"It's all +12 volt. I think the problem is the connection between the
AMP
main +12
to the battery. Don't make straight connection from AMP the battery
because
the battery voltage fluctuate while you driving the car while the AMP

voltage fluctates. Just make connect to the regular +12 voltage
like a
cigar lite voltage."

You clearly have absolutley no business giving anyone any advice
about car
audio. Go find another usenet group.

Tony


Why?

mmdir2002,
Whatever your native language is, could you please start
posting in it? That way, at least SOMEONE will be able to make sense
of your posts.
Seriously, either your intended meaning is being lost in
translation, or you're ignorant of the way automotive electrical
systems work and shouldn't be giving advice on the topic.

Scott Gardner

Sure you ignore from the expert. I'm an electrican. I don't go any
stereo
shop to install my stereo because I know more about stereo than those
guys.

Only idiot make a direct connection from battery to a amp. You can't
make that
connection.

Look, I know people here (including me) have been giving you a lot of sh*#,
and maybe you really mean well. But, ignoring the fact that your posts are
really hard to understand, most of your "advice" is just plain wrong.

For instance, you DO make a direct connection from the battery to the amp
(fused of course). Amps draw too much current to be hooked up any other
way. If someone followed this advice and hooked up their amp some other way
(ciggarrette lighter for instance) they would be blowing fuses right and
left. THIS IS BAD ADVICE!

MOSFET

"MOSFET" wrote in message
...


Sure you ignore from the expert. I'm an electrican. I don't go any
stereo
shop to install my stereo because I know more about stereo than those
guys.

Only idiot make a direct connection from battery to a amp. You can't
make that
connection.

Look, I know people here (including me) have been giving you a lot of
sh*#,
and maybe you really mean well. But, ignoring the fact that your posts
are
really hard to understand, most of your "advice" is just plain wrong.

For instance, you DO make a direct connection from the battery to the amp
(fused of course). Amps draw too much current to be hooked up any other
way. If someone followed this advice and hooked up their amp some other
way
(ciggarrette lighter for instance) they would be blowing fuses right and
left. THIS IS BAD ADVICE!

MOSFET



Maybe in his mind, an inline fuse makes it an indirect connection ;p.
Thanks for pointing out that he is giving bad advice though, for us
beginners it keeps us from screwing up our cars ;p

I don't go any
stereo
shop to install my stereo because I know more about stereo than those
guys.

Are you sure about that?

I'm not too knowledgable on wiring yet. He tried to explain ohms to me.
He said something that my each sub (2) have two wires that go back to
the amp. Today he soldered the gold connector right onto the end of the
power line for optimum connection. The tiny fuse box thing is
electrical taped onto the other wires that go into the firewall (drill
would not fit) Then we checked every connection, and installed the bass
controller (which has an amp power light on it ;]). So far so good.

Before we redid the stuff, the amp went out when he was not here, so I
measured the voltage and it read 3.5v. He thinks it was an issue with
the powerline to battery and maybe the loose fuse. I'll report back if
it goes off again.

Thanks for all your helpful replies, especially MOSFET

He said something that my each sub (2) have two wires that go back to
the amp. Today he soldered the gold connector right onto the end of the
power line for optimum connection. The tiny fuse box thing is
electrical taped onto the other wires that go into the firewall (drill
would not fit) Then we checked every connection, and installed the bass
controller (which has an amp power light on it ;]). So far so good.

Before we redid the stuff, the amp went out when he was not here, so I
measured the voltage and it read 3.5v. He thinks it was an issue with
the powerline to battery and maybe the loose fuse. I'll report back if
it goes off again.

Thanks for all your helpful replies, especially MOSFET

3.5v? Did you mean 13.5 volts? If not, clearly there's your problem! Did
you happen to measure the voltage at the battery at that time, too? If that
also read 3.5 volts then clearly you have an issue with your car's
electrical system (possibly bad battery or alternator). However, at 3.5
volts I hardly see how your car would continue running!

If the battery voltage was fine, then indeed it appears to be a bad
connection to your amp and maybe your friend was able to resolve it.

MOSFET

No, when the amp was off, it read a steady 3.5 volts. It did not affect
anything within the car, you would just not hear bass. So that leads me
to the conclusion of a loose wire. When the amp was fully powered up
and working, it was 14.7 when the car was freshly on, 14.0 about 20
minutes later, and 12.1-13.0 after 40 minutes and playing music.

He said he once saw an amp run on 11.4v.

MOSFET wrote:


Sure you ignore from the expert. I'm an electrican. I don't go any
stereo
shop to install my stereo because I know more about stereo than
those
guys.

Only idiot make a direct connection from battery to a amp. You
can't
make that
connection.

Look, I know people here (including me) have been giving you a lot of
sh*#,
and maybe you really mean well. But, ignoring the fact that your
posts are
really hard to understand, most of your "advice" is just plain wrong.

For instance, you DO make a direct connection from the battery to
the amp
(fused of course). Amps draw too much current to be hooked up any
other
way. If someone followed this advice and hooked up their amp some
other way
(ciggarrette lighter for instance) they would be blowing fuses right
and
left. THIS IS BAD ADVICE!

MOSFET

you still think I'm wrong. There is no way you hook up the radio
direct to the battery. You don't do that. It's stupid. NO car no
model
of car anywhere has a radio directly hook up to the battery. This is
stupid
thing! Only reason people has that hook up is because they think they
get
more power to the radio. Yes people who do not know nothing about
electronic!!!



design

"There is no way you hook up the radio direct to the battery."

I thought we were talking about amplifers, hence the title of this thread,
"Weird AMP issues, again!"

Tony


--
2001 Nissan Maxima SE Anniversary Edition
Eclipse CD8454 Head Unit, Phoenix Gold ZX475ti, ZX450 and ZX500 Amplifiers,
Phoenix Gold EQ-232 30-Band EQ, Dynaudio System 360 Tri-Amped In Front and
Focal 130HCs For Rear Fill, 2 Soundstream EXACT10s In Aperiodic Enclosure

2001 Chevy S10 ZR2
Pioneer DEH-P9600MP (Just gettin' started)

wrote in message
oups.com...

MOSFET wrote:


Sure you ignore from the expert. I'm an electrican. I don't go any
stereo
shop to install my stereo because I know more about stereo than
those
guys.

Only idiot make a direct connection from battery to a amp. You
can't
make that
connection.

Look, I know people here (including me) have been giving you a lot of
sh*#,
and maybe you really mean well. But, ignoring the fact that your
posts are
really hard to understand, most of your "advice" is just plain wrong.

For instance, you DO make a direct connection from the battery to
the amp
(fused of course). Amps draw too much current to be hooked up any
other
way. If someone followed this advice and hooked up their amp some
other way
(ciggarrette lighter for instance) they would be blowing fuses right
and
left. THIS IS BAD ADVICE!

MOSFET

you still think I'm wrong. There is no way you hook up the radio
direct to the battery. You don't do that. It's stupid. NO car no
model
of car anywhere has a radio directly hook up to the battery. This is
stupid
thing! Only reason people has that hook up is because they think they
get
more power to the radio. Yes people who do not know nothing about
electronic!!!



design

"There is no way you hook up the radio direct to the battery."

I thought we were talking about amplifers, hence the title of this thread,
"Weird AMP issues, again!"

Even still, there's no way you could harm the radio by hooking it up
directly to the battery. Some manufacturers actually recommend this for
some of their units (Pioneer, and I think Alpine, and Eclipse units from a
few years ago).

"MZ" wrote in message
...
"There is no way you hook up the radio direct to the battery."

I thought we were talking about amplifers, hence the title of this
thread, "Weird AMP issues, again!"

Even still, there's no way you could harm the radio by hooking it up
directly to the battery. Some manufacturers actually recommend this for
some of their units (Pioneer, and I think Alpine, and Eclipse units from a
few years ago).


Nearly all ham radios are directly connected to the battery, it greatly
reduces noise in the receive!

Chad

Sure you ignore from the expert. I'm an electrican. I don't go any
stereo
shop to install my stereo because I know more about stereo than those
guys.

HAHA an electrician huh, ok Mr. Electriciain, please educate us all on
what happens when you run 100 amps thru a 20g wire.. Or does the cig.
lighter in your car use 4g or what?

"MZ" wrote in message
...
"There is no way you hook up the radio direct to the battery."

I thought we were talking about amplifers, hence the title of this
thread,
"Weird AMP issues, again!"

Even still, there's no way you could harm the radio by hooking it up
directly to the battery. Some manufacturers actually recommend this for
some of their units (Pioneer, and I think Alpine, and Eclipse units from a
few years ago).

That's absolutlely correct, Alpine recommends that for their recievers that
put out 27 watts x 4 that you make a direct connection to the battery.

Hey mmdir2000@yahoo, why don't you go to the Alpine site (or call them) and
ask if their high power series recievers are supposed to be connected
directly to the battery. If you are wrong (they would know best about how
to hook up their amps), please stop giving advice.

MOSFET

[sq4u]

Mike, are you ready for the TRUTH....here we go...break your voltmeter out again.....switch it to ohms ya know the symbol one...and check your subs ohms. anyway, mike, your amp "played" for 10 mins right.......then shuts off......bro your probly at 3 ohms or less try changing your sub wiring to 1 sub 1 channel sounds like we have a an "amplifier cutoff" here when it gets too hot. change the wiring of your subwoofer setup i almost gaurantee that you are at 3 or less ohms and your amp cant continue to play. you will most definatly fry your amp and possibly blow your sub.....dont do it!!! i know it sounds better, but, dump that storm and get a super gr8 amp from somewhere. remember, in the audio world, you get what you pay for, get educated, just dont get robbed.

MZ wrote:
"There is no way you hook up the radio direct to the battery."

I thought we were talking about amplifers, hence the title of this
thread,
"Weird AMP issues, again!"

Even still, there's no way you could harm the radio by hooking it up
directly to the battery. Some manufacturers actually recommend this
for
some of their units (Pioneer, and I think Alpine, and Eclipse units
from a
few years ago).

Radio or amp was not design to hook up directly to the battery.
The audio manufacture recommednation is purely just marketing stragety
to lure those has no knowledge on electronic.

MZ wrote:
"There is no way you hook up the radio direct to the battery."

I thought we were talking about amplifers, hence the title of this
thread,
"Weird AMP issues, again!"

Even still, there's no way you could harm the radio by hooking it up
directly to the battery. Some manufacturers actually recommend this
for
some of their units (Pioneer, and I think Alpine, and Eclipse units
from a
few years ago).

Radio or amp was not design to hook up directly to the battery.
The audio manufacture recommednation is purely just marketing stragety
to lure those has no knowledge on electronic.

Even still, there's no way you could harm the radio by hooking it up
directly to the battery. Some manufacturers actually recommend this
for
some of their units (Pioneer, and I think Alpine, and Eclipse units
from a
few years ago).

Radio or amp was not design to hook up directly to the battery.
The audio manufacture recommednation is purely just marketing stragety
to lure those has no knowledge on electronic.

What is it about the battery connection harmful, exactly? Feel free to be
as technical as you like, using your "electrician" jargon where necessary.

"MZ" wrote in message
...
Even still, there's no way you could harm the radio by hooking it up
directly to the battery. Some manufacturers actually recommend this
for
some of their units (Pioneer, and I think Alpine, and Eclipse units
from a
few years ago).

Radio or amp was not design to hook up directly to the battery.
The audio manufacture recommednation is purely just marketing stragety
to lure those has no knowledge on electronic.

What is it about the battery connection harmful, exactly? Feel free to be
as technical as you like, using your "electrician" jargon where necessary.

I'm soooo ready for this one!

Radio or amp was not design to hook up directly to the battery.
The audio manufacture recommednation is purely just marketing stragety
to lure those has no knowledge on electronic.

OK, that was just plain stupid. You are a troll. I give up.

MOSFET

MZ wrote: "What is it about the battery connection harmful, exactly? Feel
free to be as technical as you like, using your "electrician" jargon where
necessary."

I've moved my couch into my office in front of my computer. I've made an
extra-large bowl of hot-buttered popcorn. I bought a wireless mouse &
keyboard. My eyes are glued to my monitor, for this will truly be the most
enjoyable mis-matched battle of wits I have ever witnessed on rec.audio.car.

Tony



--
2001 Nissan Maxima SE Anniversary Edition
Eclipse CD8454 Head Unit, Phoenix Gold ZX475ti, ZX450 and ZX500 Amplifiers,
Phoenix Gold EQ-232 30-Band EQ, Dynaudio System 360 Tri-Amped In Front and
Focal 130HCs For Rear Fill, 2 Soundstream EXACT10s In Aperiodic Enclosure

2001 Chevy S10 ZR2
Pioneer DEH-P9600MP (Just gettin' started)

What is it about the battery connection harmful, exactly? Feel free to be
as technical as you like, using your "electrician" jargon where necessary.

Why bother? See, he lures you into thinking he is sincere, then hits you
with something that makes zero sense (marketing strategy?).

MOSFET

"MOSFET" wrote in message
...
What is it about the battery connection harmful, exactly? Feel free to
be
as technical as you like, using your "electrician" jargon where
necessary.

Why bother? See, he lures you into thinking he is sincere, then hits you
with something that makes zero sense (marketing strategy?).

MOSFET



Duh, for selling that extra Alpine wire!!!! hahahahahaha

"Tony F" wrote in message
...
MZ wrote: "What is it about the battery connection harmful, exactly? Feel
free to be as technical as you like, using your "electrician" jargon where
necessary."

I've moved my couch into my office in front of my computer. I've made an
extra-large bowl of hot-buttered popcorn. I bought a wireless mouse &
keyboard. My eyes are glued to my monitor, for this will truly be the
most enjoyable mis-matched battle of wits I have ever witnessed on
rec.audio.car.

Tony


No popcorn here! Gotta have the fingers primed, I cleaned the keyboard
though.

Chad

On Wed, 23 Feb 2005 07:52:19 -0800, "Tony F"
wrote:

MZ wrote: "What is it about the battery connection harmful, exactly? Feel
free to be as technical as you like, using your "electrician" jargon where
necessary."

I've moved my couch into my office in front of my computer. I've made an
extra-large bowl of hot-buttered popcorn. I bought a wireless mouse &
keyboard. My eyes are glued to my monitor, for this will truly be the most
enjoyable mis-matched battle of wits I have ever witnessed on rec.audio.car.

Tony

Speaking of mis-matched battles of wits, has anyone heard from Spockie
recently?

Scott

Here is my amp,

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW

I did not purchase it from ebay but used it just for the specs.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION FOR THE NITRO BMW-484

1200 WATT POWER AMPLIFIER
2 CHANNELS
FREE REMOTE BASS BOOST
BRIDGEABLE
SUPER HIGH FIDELITY SOUND
BUILT-IN CROSSOVER
HIGH AND LOW PASS FILTERS
VARIABLE BASS BOOST
VARIABLE GAIN CONTROL
2 - 8 OHM STABLE
3-WAY CIRCUITRY PROTECTION
BLUE INTERIOR ILLUMINATION
GOLD PLATED RCA AND SPEAKER TERMINALS

If you say its running at 3 ohms then why does it say it can fully
support 2 ohms?

It does have two fans on it. And when the amp does power off, the red
protection light does NOT come on.

MZ wrote:
Even still, there's no way you could harm the radio by hooking it
up
directly to the battery. Some manufacturers actually recommend
this
for
some of their units (Pioneer, and I think Alpine, and Eclipse
units
from a
few years ago).

Radio or amp was not design to hook up directly to the battery.
The audio manufacture recommednation is purely just marketing
stragety
to lure those has no knowledge on electronic.

What is it about the battery connection harmful, exactly? Feel free
to be
as technical as you like, using your "electrician" jargon where
necessary.

You don't need electrnonc knowledge. Anyone knows that you can't
connect a
extra wire to the battery. It will harm the electrical system and it
was never been part of the electronical sysystem anywhere. Moreover, it
will
harms the battery life. Simply is that!