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FM splitter or FM tap
Does anyone have a part number and manufacturer name of a TV FM
splitter also known as a tap? I live very close to transmitters and would like to keep the signals as clean as possible for both my tv and radio receivers. I have new rooftop antennas and have already replaced most cable and connectors. I did some searches and called some distributors but only found general references. Neither Radio Shack nor Blonder Tongue have this. Thanks. |
#3
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In article ,
Isaac Wingfield wrote: In article .com, wrote: Does anyone have a part number and manufacturer name of a TV FM splitter also known as a tap? I live very close to transmitters and would like to keep the signals as clean as possible for both my tv and radio receivers. I have new rooftop antennas and have already replaced most cable and connectors. I did some searches and called some distributors but only found general references. Neither Radio Shack nor Blonder Tongue have this. Thanks. You didn't mention whether you were using twin lead or coax. Assuming coax, any 75 ohm TV splitter will work just fine; the FM band is just above channel 6. Isaac The typical UHF/VHF/FM splitter actually uses resistors for impedance matching. Pop one open and see for yourself. Real FM separators usually have a weak spot where channel 6 and the lower end of FM meet. They're nearly impossible to find too. I just avoid amping the FM and take a small hit on VHF reception quality. My indoor setup looks like this: UHF Ant ------------| VHF/UHF mixer -- FM trap -- Amp -- TV VHF Ant --splitter--| | | FM Maybe this is more practical for outdoor antennas: - outdoor | indoor - UHF Ant -- Amp --| VHF/UHF mixer -- power -- splitter --- TV VHF Ant ---------| injector | FM |
#5
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What you want is an attenuator. You can get a 75 ohm attenuator. They look
like a small barrel. Blonder Tongue should have them. They are good for the complete FM and TV spectrum that is for cable feeds and LNB feeds. If the interference is coming direct to the receiver's front end and not from the cable, then the attenuator will not do any good. -- JANA _____ wrote in message oups.com... Does anyone have a part number and manufacturer name of a TV FM splitter also known as a tap? I live very close to transmitters and would like to keep the signals as clean as possible for both my tv and radio receivers. I have new rooftop antennas and have already replaced most cable and connectors. I did some searches and called some distributors but only found general references. Neither Radio Shack nor Blonder Tongue have this. Thanks. |
#6
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Just to add, you will need to know the amount of DB you want to attenuate.
-- JANA _____ "JANA" wrote in message ... What you want is an attenuator. You can get a 75 ohm attenuator. They look like a small barrel. Blonder Tongue should have them. They are good for the complete FM and TV spectrum that is for cable feeds and LNB feeds. If the interference is coming direct to the receiver's front end and not from the cable, then the attenuator will not do any good. -- JANA _____ wrote in message oups.com... Does anyone have a part number and manufacturer name of a TV FM splitter also known as a tap? I live very close to transmitters and would like to keep the signals as clean as possible for both my tv and radio receivers. I have new rooftop antennas and have already replaced most cable and connectors. I did some searches and called some distributors but only found general references. Neither Radio Shack nor Blonder Tongue have this. Thanks. |
#7
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In .com, on 05/09/05
at 12:09 PM, said: Does anyone have a part number and manufacturer name of a TV FM splitter also known as a tap? I live very close to transmitters and would like to keep the signals as clean as possible for both my tv and radio receivers. I have new rooftop antennas and have already replaced most cable and connectors. I did some searches and called some distributors but only found general references. Neither Radio Shack nor Blonder Tongue have this. Thanks. I'm not sure what you are attempting to accomplish or if you are having a problem or not. My previous reply, although technically correct may not have been addressing your question. "Tap" has a fairly specific meaning. Look at the Radio Shack #15-1139 and #15-1252. They may accomplish what you want to do, but my experience with Radio Shack antenna accessories has been poor. This sort of device is fairly common. Many hardware stores will stock them. Unless you have an overloading issue with a lower quality FM tuner or TV or an unusually high signal level, regular TV splitters will give better results than those cheap, plastic TV/FM units. I prefer to use splitters known as "hybrid" or "splitter/combiner". These are a bit more expensive and harder to find, but they are higher quality units. I've been especially pleased with the Channel Master and Channel+ units, but others have also worked well. Anything in a plastic case (like the Radio Shack units above) is not a good idea. ----------------------------------------------------------- spam: wordgame:123(abc):14 9 20 5 2 9 18 4 at 22 15 9 3 5 14 5 20 dot 3 15 13 (Barry Mann) [sorry about the puzzle, spammers are ruining my mailbox] ----------------------------------------------------------- |
#8
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#9
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Does anyone have a part number and manufacturer name of a TV FM
splitter also known as a tap? I live very close to transmitters and would like to keep the signals as clean as possible for both my tv and radio receivers. I have new rooftop antennas and have already replaced most cable and connectors. Are you perhaps looking for an FM *trap*? That's a device which attenuates a particular frequency. It's used where there is a strong signal in the area which is overloading the front-end of a receiver, regardless of where it's tuned. You tune the trap for the strong signal, which alleviates the overload from the strong signal so that weaker ones on other frequencies can be heard. The best source I have found for TV, cable-TV, and FM filters is a company called Tin Lee Electronics, located in Toronto. Their web site is at http://www.tinlee.com/ As one example, their CF7-FM is an FM band-pass filter. It will pass the FM-band frequencies with little loss, but will provide a great deal of attenuation (close to 30 dB) of most VHF television-band frequencies. Conversely, their CR7-FMU-40 is an FM band-stop filter. It passes the VHF television frequencies, but blocks FM. One way to apply these would be to feed a VHF-TV/FM roof antenna's signal down to a two-way RF splitter. One port on the splitter would go to a CF7-FM, and the filter's output would go to an A/V receiver or other FM tuner. The other splitter port would go to a CR7-FMU-40, and then to a television set. This arrangement would keep strong FM signals out of the TV tuner, and strong TV signals out of the FM tuner. Tin Lee also has narrow-band pass and notch filters, for more specialized situations. They have one filter I've never seen elsewhere... it's tuned to reject the 144-148 MHz amateur-radio 2-meter band. This proved to be an invaluable tool for maintaining domestic harmony in my house, as my 2-meter transmitter signals were getting into the TV system and overpowering the little Radio Shack distribution amplifier, and wiping out every channel. With the Tin Lee filter in place on the antenna, the problem has disappeared. -- Dave Platt AE6EO Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads! |
#10
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To answer my own question...
Winegard CA-8800 available from Stark Electronic.com $15 MCM 33-350 available from Newark.com $4 but they may have an order min. Magnavox M61013 for $4. Pico Macom discontinued p/n FMTV-D available from Multicominc.com for $1.16. I know Radio Shack components are generally low quality. My tv is a 15 year old LXI/Sears. My radio is a Pioneer VSX-1014TX (a great buy at $400). I just shutoff cable service so I'm trying to build an antenna that will last a long time and be hdtv ready. I have separate VHF (16ft yagi, mfgr unknown) and UHF (Channel Master 4248) antennas. These are on a 15 ft mast with a rotor. I bought Belden 1694A low loss coax at $.35/ft from Markertek. The longest cable run is about 100 ft. I am also using T&B Snap-n-Seal connectors. This feeds 4 tvs and a FM receiver. I was using Blonder Tongue splitters but will try a cable drop amp can handle higher signal inputs than a preamp (like PDI or Electroline available on ebay). These are low noise (2.4-3db). The 8 port amp adds 3db gain which may help me to get less noise on some stations I like which are about 100 miles away. This should compensate for splitter loss and line loss of signal strength. The antenna installer said I could add the FM tap (band separator) because it may minimize intereference both ways (tv/fm). It sounds like a cheap bet. I know the unused ports must be terminated. The cable drop amp does provide for future proofing if we go back to cable. It has active return too. I will put the band separator before the amp. I ordered the Winegard CA-8800. The PDI drop amp has been rec' but not installed yet. Someone explained that some ghosting is caused by the nearby stations signal coming from multiple paths, also possibly leaking into poorly shielded coax or loose connectors. The signal hits the tv at 2 different times and distorts the image. Hopefully the rotor will help to mitigate any signal overload of the tv and radio transmitters 2 miles away. Thanks for they replies! |
#11
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In article .com,
wrote: To answer my own question... Winegard CA-8800 available from Stark Electronic.com $15 MCM 33-350 available from Newark.com $4 but they may have an order min. Magnavox M61013 for $4. Pico Macom discontinued p/n FMTV-D available from Multicominc.com for $1.16. I know Radio Shack components are generally low quality. Their little TV distribution amplifier is very prone to strong-signal overload. My tv is a 15 year old LXI/Sears. My radio is a Pioneer VSX-1014TX (a great buy at $400). I just shutoff cable service so I'm trying to build an antenna that will last a long time and be hdtv ready. I have separate VHF (16ft yagi, mfgr unknown) and UHF (Channel Master 4248) antennas. These are on a 15 ft mast with a rotor. I bought Belden 1694A low loss coax at $.35/ft from Markertek. The longest cable run is about 100 ft. I am also using T&B Snap-n-Seal connectors. This feeds 4 tvs and a FM receiver. I was using Blonder Tongue splitters but will try a cable drop amp can handle higher signal inputs than a preamp (like PDI or Electroline available on ebay). These are low noise (2.4-3db). The 8 port amp adds 3db gain which may help me to get less noise on some stations I like which are about 100 miles away. This should compensate for splitter loss and line loss of signal strength. 100 miles is a very difficult "reach" unless you've got a lot of altitude for your antenna. At that distance, both the transmitter and receiver antennas are going to have to be up quite high, or each one is going to be below the horizon from the other's point of view. When this happens your signal strength drops off very sharply... you'll get a bit of diffraction, and occasionally some tropospheric ducting, but getting a consistently reliable signal is likely to be a real problem. -- Dave Platt AE6EO Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads! |
#12
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Dave Platt wrote:
In article .com, wrote: To answer my own question... Winegard CA-8800 available from Stark Electronic.com $15 MCM 33-350 available from Newark.com $4 but they may have an order min. Magnavox M61013 for $4. Pico Macom discontinued p/n FMTV-D available from Multicominc.com for $1.16. I know Radio Shack components are generally low quality. Their little TV distribution amplifier is very prone to strong-signal overload. My tv is a 15 year old LXI/Sears. My radio is a Pioneer VSX-1014TX (a great buy at $400). I just shutoff cable service so I'm trying to build an antenna that will last a long time and be hdtv ready. I have separate VHF (16ft yagi, mfgr unknown) and UHF (Channel Master 4248) antennas. These are on a 15 ft mast with a rotor. I bought Belden 1694A low loss coax at $.35/ft from Markertek. The longest cable run is about 100 ft. I am also using T&B Snap-n-Seal connectors. This feeds 4 tvs and a FM receiver. I was using Blonder Tongue splitters but will try a cable drop amp can handle higher signal inputs than a preamp (like PDI or Electroline available on ebay). These are low noise (2.4-3db). The 8 port amp adds 3db gain which may help me to get less noise on some stations I like which are about 100 miles away. This should compensate for splitter loss and line loss of signal strength. 100 miles is a very difficult "reach" unless you've got a lot of altitude for your antenna. At that distance, both the transmitter and receiver antennas are going to have to be up quite high, or each one is going to be below the horizon from the other's point of view. When this happens your signal strength drops off very sharply... you'll get a bit of diffraction, and occasionally some tropospheric ducting, but getting a consistently reliable signal is likely to be a real problem. Also, do not depend on the distro amp to boost fringe signals. That's what your antenna-mounted preamp is for. By the time the sig gets to the distro, amplification is only for making up for loss in the split and cable. At that point, you're amplifying noise and signal.... You might want to look into the traps previously described. With the high gain scenario you describe, you won't necessarily be able to depend on aiming the antenna to prevent receiver overload. The strong stations might blast in at all points of the compass, due to reflections. Finally, what was the source of the (unknown) yagi? Some of these were cut for specific channels, back in the days before cable (where there was a station in a different compass direction or somewhat further away from the rest...some stations which meet those criteria actually advertised them on air). Also, FM yagis were available. It's possible that you have one of these. It's a remote possibility; but after getting everything into the air and wired would not be a good time to find out.... jak |
#13
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In article ,
Kevin McMurtrie wrote: In article , Isaac Wingfield wrote: In article .com, wrote: Does anyone have a part number and manufacturer name of a TV FM splitter also known as a tap? I live very close to transmitters and would like to keep the signals as clean as possible for both my tv and radio receivers. I have new rooftop antennas and have already replaced most cable and connectors. I did some searches and called some distributors but only found general references. Neither Radio Shack nor Blonder Tongue have this. Thanks. You didn't mention whether you were using twin lead or coax. Assuming coax, any 75 ohm TV splitter will work just fine; the FM band is just above channel 6. Isaac The typical UHF/VHF/FM splitter actually uses resistors for impedance matching. Pop one open and see for yourself. I was not talking about UHF-VHF splitters. I was talking about "one coax to two TV sets" splitters. One of those will nicely "split" the signal so it can be connected to both a TV and an FM receiver. Very few contemporary TV sets these days have separate inputs for VHF and UHF; it never occurred to me that the word "splitter" would be confusing in context. You're right about V-U splitters, and also note that many V-U antennas have a big notch at FM; you need to get a special antenna if you want *full* coverage. Isaac |
#14
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The 16 ft yagi was installed by a guy who is now retired. It looks like
the Winegard HD6065P for FM. http://www.winegard.com/offair/pdf/hd6065p.pdf It was up for a week as my only antenna recently. I got fair reception on all channels 3-69. The Wade/Delhi/Jerrold VIP-307 is supposed to be the best VHF antenna but that would cost $176 plus $60 shipping. I know 100 miles is a longshot. Atechfabrication.com make brackets to add some vertical tilt which helps get distant stations. I bought one of their brackets but my installer refused to use it. He said there is not point in using it or a taller mast (mine is 15 ft above roof peak). In my neighborhood, many antennas are taller than mine even though there are no obstructions nearby. Overall the image quality has improved greatly. I'll note the reception quality of all stations with the rotor and do the same after adding the 8 port amp to judge the benefits and possible overloads. If some distant stations are good but weak I'll see if I can convince him to comeback. He only charges $60/hr while the only other installer I know charges $90. I have spent about $300 so far to save $50 per month. |
#15
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wrote:
The 16 ft yagi was installed by a guy who is now retired. It looks like the Winegard HD6065P for FM. http://www.winegard.com/offair/pdf/hd6065p.pdf It was up for a week as my only antenna recently. I got fair reception on all channels 3-69. The Wade/Delhi/Jerrold VIP-307 is supposed to be the best VHF antenna but that would cost $176 plus $60 shipping. I know 100 miles is a longshot. Atechfabrication.com make brackets to add some vertical tilt which helps get distant stations. I bought one of their brackets but my installer refused to use it. He said there is not point in using it or a taller mast (mine is 15 ft above roof peak). In my neighborhood, many antennas are taller than mine even though there are no obstructions nearby. Overall the image quality has improved greatly. I'll note the reception quality of all stations with the rotor and do the same after adding the 8 port amp to judge the benefits and possible overloads. If some distant stations are good but weak I'll see if I can convince him to comeback. He only charges $60/hr while the only other installer I know charges $90. I have spent about $300 so far to save $50 per month. I think I'd have spent the other $176 (or less, perhaps, for a lesser unit) and gotten the TV antenna. What you've got is specifically cut for the gap in the middle of the VHF (ch 2-13) bands at 88-108 mHz. You have nothing specifically tuned to the broadcast TV channels (54-72 --chs. 2-4; 76-88 -- chs 4,6; 174-216 chs 8-13...not to mention UHF frequencies 480-806 mHz), therefore, directionality and sensitivity are a total crap-shoot. It could pick up a particular channel better off-axis, as on...any actual directionality at TV frequencies will be more by accident than by design. If you're spending $90/hour to get your work done put up an antenna, it makes sense to put one up, which was designed for the frequencies you are trying to receive. Otherwise, it will just not work the way you expect it to...spinning it around in a circle is not going to help (much). Even a 'middling' *TV* antenna will likely work better than your high-gain FM yagi. Go to Radio Shack, and get the best antenna you can afford. It will work better (on TV) that what you have. OTOH, you should have superb FM reception. jak |
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