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Daniel Snooks
 
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Default Options for subs with high power handling

A friend of mine is trying to minimize the subwoofer setup in his car. He
has a pair of Autotek sx1200 (1200W each @ 1ohm)
I am wondering what offerings are available to blend with his current power
setup. The JL 13W7 would work (roughly 800W per VC @ 1.5ohm) what else would
you recommend.
I haven't bought a sub in years, so I am kinda jumping in and seeing what I
can find for him.

BTW ... space is not and issue, and $ is only a small issue.

TIA,
Dan Snooks


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jayhawk137
 
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Default Options for subs with high power handling

SoloX
XXX
DD 9515
Brahma
--
jayhawk137
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Brandon Buckner
 
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Default Options for subs with high power handling

Also:

Diamond TDX
Crossfire XT15 (had 4 DEI 1100Ds going to one for burping just fine)
MTX RFL

Brandonb


jayhawk137 wrote:
SoloX
XXX
DD 9515
Brahma
--
jayhawk137
------------------------------------------------------------------------
CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over one million posts online!
View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/showthr...hreadid=182946


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Brandon Buckner
 
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Default Options for subs with high power handling

Almost forgot, check out termpro.com forums for the latest and greatest
the dBDrag competitors are using.

Brandonb


Brandon Buckner wrote:

Also:

Diamond TDX
Crossfire XT15 (had 4 DEI 1100Ds going to one for burping just fine)
MTX RFL

Brandonb


jayhawk137 wrote:

SoloX
XXX
DD 9515
Brahma
--
jayhawk137
------------------------------------------------------------------------
CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over one million posts online!
View this thread:
http://www.caraudioforum.com/showthr...hreadid=182946



  #5   Report Post  
Tha Ghee
 
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Default Options for subs with high power handling

"Daniel Snooks" wrote in message
...
A friend of mine is trying to minimize the subwoofer setup in his car. He
has a pair of Autotek sx1200 (1200W each @ 1ohm)
I am wondering what offerings are available to blend with his current

power
setup. The JL 13W7 would work (roughly 800W per VC @ 1.5ohm) what else

would
you recommend.
I haven't bought a sub in years, so I am kinda jumping in and seeing what

I
can find for him.

BTW ... space is not and issue, and $ is only a small issue.

TIA,
Dan Snooks

IDMAX 12, & ED.




  #6   Report Post  
Peter Klein
 
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Default Options for subs with high power handling

Subwoofers have no power, only amps have power. The sub is an accoustic
motor that runs on fuel called wattage. No car amp puts out it's stated
power. It has a power supply which supplies the wattage as the subwoofer
"asks" for it. Subwoofers don't, as a rule, blow from too many watts per
channel. They blow from not enough wattage per channel. If you wan't to
minimize and make things last a long time, run the woofers at four ohms or
two ohms but not at one ohm. P.


"Daniel Snooks" wrote in message
...
A friend of mine is trying to minimize the subwoofer setup in his car. He
has a pair of Autotek sx1200 (1200W each @ 1ohm)
I am wondering what offerings are available to blend with his current

power
setup. The JL 13W7 would work (roughly 800W per VC @ 1.5ohm) what else

would
you recommend.
I haven't bought a sub in years, so I am kinda jumping in and seeing what

I
can find for him.

BTW ... space is not and issue, and $ is only a small issue.

TIA,
Dan Snooks




  #7   Report Post  
Daniel Snooks
 
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Default Options for subs with high power handling

Peter Klein wrote
Subwoofers have no power, only amps have power. The sub is an accoustic
motor that runs on fuel called wattage. No car amp puts out it's stated
power. It has a power supply which supplies the wattage as the subwoofer
"asks" for it. Subwoofers don't, as a rule, blow from too many watts per
channel. They blow from not enough wattage per channel. If you wan't to
minimize and make things last a long time, run the woofers at four ohms or
two ohms but not at one ohm. P.


I don't mean to be rude, but do you have any idea what you are talking
about?
First ... I never suggested that subwoofers have power ... I simply showed
that the 13W7 would be getting ~800W per voice coil if I ran it off of both
amplifiers (one amp for each voice coil) Or did you think that the Autotek
sx1200 were subs? They are the amps.
Second ... there are plenty of car amps that put out the stated power, I
have no clue why you would think there aren't.
Third ... the subwoofer will never "ask" for power, the amplifier will boost
the signal being received from the source depending on the gain. The amp
will "provide" the power to the sub regardless of what the sub can actually
handle.
Fourth ... it is impossible to "blow" a sub (or any speaker) by not using
enough power (less then the sub is rated to handle) I really, really, really
hate people propagating the myth that underpowering blows speakers.
Fifth ... what the heck difference does it make what impedance you run the
system at, as long as the amp can handle it? Please explain your position on
this.

"Daniel Snooks" wrote in message
...
A friend of mine is trying to minimize the subwoofer setup in his car.

He
has a pair of Autotek sx1200 (1200W each @ 1ohm)
I am wondering what offerings are available to blend with his current

power
setup. The JL 13W7 would work (roughly 800W per VC @ 1.5ohm) what else

would
you recommend.
I haven't bought a sub in years, so I am kinda jumping in and seeing

what
I
can find for him.

BTW ... space is not and issue, and $ is only a small issue.

TIA,
Dan Snooks






  #8   Report Post  
MZ
 
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Default Options for subs with high power handling

Subwoofers have no power, only amps have power. The sub is an accoustic
motor that runs on fuel called wattage. No car amp puts out it's stated
power. It has a power supply which supplies the wattage as the subwoofer
"asks" for it. Subwoofers don't, as a rule, blow from too many watts per
channel. They blow from not enough wattage per channel. If you wan't to
minimize and make things last a long time, run the woofers at four ohms or
two ohms but not at one ohm. P.


a) the impedance of the sub has nothing to do with its longevity.
b) it's impossible to blow a speaker by delivering too little power.


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