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#1
Posted to rec.audio.car
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wiring DVC sub
I just got in my pioneer W306 DVC sub (12") and I had a question. I'm wiring
into a 2 ohm load (parallel) when I wire from the terminal cup to the sub 1 wire goes in there, then do I stick another wire in the sub (say the negative side) and then connect that to the other negative side on the other voice coil? Also, what guage wire should I use going from the terminal cup to the hookups on the actual sub, does it matter? (I mean, as long as it's not like 22 guage or something) will any decent speaker wire (18 guage, 16 guage or bigger) work fine? thanks, sorry never hooked up a DVC before. -Nick |
#2
Posted to rec.audio.car
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wiring DVC sub
"Dr Nick" wrote in message news:8vkvf.37322$9G.15065@dukeread10... I just got in my pioneer W306 DVC sub (12") and I had a question. I'm wiring into a 2 ohm load (parallel) when I wire from the terminal cup to the sub 1 wire goes in there, then do I stick another wire in the sub (say the negative side) and then connect that to the other negative side on the other voice coil? Also, what guage wire should I use going from the terminal cup to the hookups on the actual sub, does it matter? (I mean, as long as it's not like 22 guage or something) will any decent speaker wire (18 guage, 16 guage or bigger) work fine? thanks, sorry never hooked up a DVC before. -Nick to wire parallel, aka dual 4ohm coils to make a 2ohm speaker; run one wire from +amp to +VC1 to +VC2 then the same for the negative Voice Coil: -amp to -VC1 to -VC2. If your building an enclosure, you can get terminal connector kits so you can run single wires from each post on the sub to the terminal block, run a single wire from amp to the terminal, then use 'bridge bars' included in the kits to parallel the connections neatly. As for gauge, I'd go with the largest that your amp and sub can connect with without having to modify the ends of the cable. I personally use 10ga but it depends on your connection terminals. Larger gauge can easily handle the power and in a car, larger gauge is going to be more rugged and resist nicks and potential crimp/breaks better. |
#3
Posted to rec.audio.car
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wiring DVC sub
to wire parallel, aka dual 4ohm coils to make a 2ohm speaker; run one wire
from +amp to +VC1 to +VC2 then the same for the negative Voice Coil: -amp to -VC1 to -VC2. If your building an enclosure, you can get terminal connector kits so you can run single wires from each post on the sub to the terminal block, run a single wire from amp to the terminal, then use 'bridge bars' included in the kits to parallel the connections neatly. As for gauge, I'd go with the largest that your amp and sub can connect with without having to modify the ends of the cable. I personally use 10ga but it depends on your connection terminals. Larger gauge can easily handle the power and in a car, larger gauge is going to be more rugged and resist nicks and potential crimp/breaks better. Well I already have an enclosure for it, should I get these "bridge bars"? where can I get these from? I don't really care if it's "neat" because it will be inside the box and I won't see it, but I DO want to make sure it's done right so I don't have problems down the road. if I just use speaker wires to connect them I run one wire from the + side on the terminal to VC1 and then do I stick another wire in the + on VC1 to connect to the + on VC2? and teh same on the negative side |
#4
Posted to rec.audio.car
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wiring DVC sub
also, when wiring this I think I have 14 guage wire (not 100% sure might be
16), if I doubled up each wire on the + and - sides (say, using both the + and - side of 1 wire to go in each the + and - side, will that be better) will it hurt? does it matter? |
#5
Posted to rec.audio.car
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wiring DVC sub
In article EOzvf.47904$ih5.37343@dukeread11, "Nick Vital" wrote:
also, when wiring this I think I have 14 guage wire (not 100% sure might be 16), if I doubled up each wire on the + and - sides (say, using both the + and - side of 1 wire to go in each the + and - side, will that be better) will it hurt? does it matter? You could probably use 30 gauge and you will not know the difference, except it may vibrate to death. Two 14s = 11 gauge. I would use the size that fits best. I most always solder all my driver connections, but a screw down would normally require torquing down with a wrench so its tight. greg |
#6
Posted to rec.audio.car
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wiring DVC sub
just finished installing it, couldn't find any damn wire strippers so I used
a rasor knife... had a slight mishap (at least now everyone will know when I'm flippinf them off because of the big white bandage, lol) I found some 10 guage wire my dad had from running our home theater, so I used that to make the "bridge" connections, and just used the 16 guage I had in there previously for the amp to sub connect, sub sounds GREAT. haven't fully tested it yet as I'm breaking it in still, but definetly more senisitive than the rockford I replaced it with. (have pioneer W306DVC 12") had a few people asking for reports on the sound of it, it's a lot better with rock stuff (can hear bass kicks really clear) and I haven't even fully tuned the gain or X-over yet. |
#7
Posted to rec.audio.car
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wiring DVC sub
Awesome, I ended up ordering the same sub from www.ikesound.com, and mine
should be here soon. It shipped on Monday and is scheduled for delivery for tomorrow. I am in the process of building my enclosure. It should be assembled tomorrow evening, with a 24 hour cure time for the silicone seals. I'll let you all know how it goes. I am building a 1.36 cubic foot box, and the displacement of the driver is .11 cubic feet. The manual suggests a 1.25 cubic foot enclosure, so I should be perfect. I will break it in for a couple of days, and post my thoughts on it. I listen to mostly rock as well, but I do listen to some rap too. I'm sure it will sound great. -- - AUSTIN BECKER "Dr Nick" wrote in message news:gqBvf.37379$9G.17472@dukeread10... just finished installing it, couldn't find any damn wire strippers so I used a rasor knife... had a slight mishap (at least now everyone will know when I'm flippinf them off because of the big white bandage, lol) I found some 10 guage wire my dad had from running our home theater, so I used that to make the "bridge" connections, and just used the 16 guage I had in there previously for the amp to sub connect, sub sounds GREAT. haven't fully tested it yet as I'm breaking it in still, but definetly more senisitive than the rockford I replaced it with. (have pioneer W306DVC 12") had a few people asking for reports on the sound of it, it's a lot better with rock stuff (can hear bass kicks really clear) and I haven't even fully tuned the gain or X-over yet. |
#8
Posted to rec.audio.car
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wiring DVC sub
"Austin Becker" wrote in message news:6H_wf.689616$x96.86611@attbi_s72... Awesome, I ended up ordering the same sub from www.ikesound.com, and mine should be here soon. It shipped on Monday and is scheduled for delivery for tomorrow. I am in the process of building my enclosure. It should be assembled tomorrow evening, with a 24 hour cure time for the silicone seals. I'll let you all know how it goes. I am building a 1.36 cubic foot box, and the displacement of the driver is .11 cubic feet. The manual suggests a 1.25 cubic foot enclosure, so I should be perfect. I will break it in for a couple of days, and post my thoughts on it. I listen to mostly rock as well, but I do listen to some rap too. I'm sure it will sound great. -- The box I put it in is on the high side of the rec. enclosure for a sealed (about 1.65 cu ft, mabye slightly more) I believe the Max for this is 1.75 cu ft so I'm in the OK range. (the rec enclosure is 1.25 cu ft.) I just finished breaking it in and have put it to the test with a few mp3's and stuff, haven't tried a full CD quality song yet. but this definetly delievers the bass I was looking for, not super hard slamming, but nice accurate bass. -Nick |
#9
Posted to rec.audio.car
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wiring DVC sub
That box is HUGE!!!!! I would almost venture to say unnecessarily big. If
you put that thing in a box that's 1.25 cubes, I would be willing to bet that you'd be much happier with it.. But, I am glad you like it. Hopefully if the weather cooperates tomorrow, I'll be able to cut my box pieces and put it together. Then I will have to wait til monday to put the sub in. -- - AUSTIN BECKER "Dr Nick" wrote in message news:s_Wxf.8723$0G.7032@dukeread10... "Austin Becker" wrote in message news:6H_wf.689616$x96.86611@attbi_s72... Awesome, I ended up ordering the same sub from www.ikesound.com, and mine should be here soon. It shipped on Monday and is scheduled for delivery for tomorrow. I am in the process of building my enclosure. It should be assembled tomorrow evening, with a 24 hour cure time for the silicone seals. I'll let you all know how it goes. I am building a 1.36 cubic foot box, and the displacement of the driver is .11 cubic feet. The manual suggests a 1.25 cubic foot enclosure, so I should be perfect. I will break it in for a couple of days, and post my thoughts on it. I listen to mostly rock as well, but I do listen to some rap too. I'm sure it will sound great. -- The box I put it in is on the high side of the rec. enclosure for a sealed (about 1.65 cu ft, mabye slightly more) I believe the Max for this is 1.75 cu ft so I'm in the OK range. (the rec enclosure is 1.25 cu ft.) I just finished breaking it in and have put it to the test with a few mp3's and stuff, haven't tried a full CD quality song yet. but this definetly delievers the bass I was looking for, not super hard slamming, but nice accurate bass. -Nick |
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