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geoff geoff is offline
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Default Best XLRs ?

Having a spate of XLRs with their rubber or plastic 'boot'
strain-reliefs getting either simply pulled out of the shell, or worse
ripped, split, whatever , but mostly irreparably damaged.

Short of dumping my clumsy client-base, any suggestions of the best (and
hopefully affordable) brand/model XLRs that can survive stage-use ?

I think the worst use is on stage monitors where monitors get moved or
cables tripped on...

geoff
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Phil Allison[_4_] Phil Allison[_4_] is offline
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geoff wrote:


Having a spate of XLRs with their rubber or plastic 'boot'
strain-reliefs getting either simply pulled out of the shell, or worse
ripped, split, whatever , but mostly irreparably damaged.

Short of dumping my clumsy client-base, any suggestions of the best (and
hopefully affordable) brand/model XLRs that can survive stage-use ?


** None are a strong as the old style, full metal ones with the saddle clamp.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XLR_co...connectors.jpg

You could drive a vehicle one without damage, the ones made by Switchcraft are similar.

https://www.swee****er.com/store/det...-xlr-connector


I think the worst use is on stage monitors where monitors get moved or
cables tripped on...


** In that case, something has to give - either the plug lets go or the cable tears out.

IME, in the case of the two above, repair is nearly always possible.

The Switchcraft one is still available.


..... Phil

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Ty Ford[_2_] Ty Ford[_2_] is offline
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Default Best XLRs ?

Switchcraft seem to have survivability.


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Scott Dorsey Scott Dorsey is offline
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geoff wrote:
Having a spate of XLRs with their rubber or plastic 'boot'
strain-reliefs getting either simply pulled out of the shell, or worse
ripped, split, whatever , but mostly irreparably damaged.


Were they cheap clones of the old Canon two-screw design?

Short of dumping my clumsy client-base, any suggestions of the best (and
hopefully affordable) brand/model XLRs that can survive stage-use ?


Switchcraft or Neutrik. The Amphenol ones are okay too, but more money.
For monitors, you MIGHT consider investing in the Switchcraft right angle
connectors. They are far more expensive than the regular ones and not
a lot of places stock them, but they can eliminate a lot of problems when
cables need to come out parallel to the panel.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
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Scott Dorsey Scott Dorsey is offline
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Phil Allison wrote:

** None are a strong as the old style, full metal ones with the saddle clamp.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XLR_co...connectors.jpg


That's the Canon style ones. They were strong, BUT those screws were always
working their way out and getting lost if you didn't locktite them. Also the
boot materials decayed. But they did take a beating.

You could drive a vehicle one without damage, the ones made by Switchcraft are similar.


I actually saw a remote truck towed several feet by a Canon XLR. The cable
broke before the connector.

I use the Switchcrafts and recommend them also.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."


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Phil Allison[_4_] Phil Allison[_4_] is offline
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Scott Dorsey wrote:

Phil Allison


** None are a strong as the old style, full metal ones with the saddle clamp.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XLR_co...connectors.jpg


That's the Canon style ones. They were strong, BUT those screws were always
working their way out and getting lost if you didn't locktite them. Also the
boot materials decayed. But they did take a beating.


** One of my customers used to to sleeve Cannon XLRs with clear shrink tubing after placing an identifying number underneath. It kept the saddle screws in place too.

I still have a 35mm film can with dozens of custom made replacement screws.

This was in the 1970s when to only XLRs on sale were made in Melbourne by STC-Cannon.




..... Phil


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Phil Allison[_4_] Phil Allison[_4_] is offline
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Scott Dorsey wrote:

Phil Allison

You could drive a vehicle one without damage, the ones made by
Switchcraft are similar.



I actually saw a remote truck towed several feet by a Canon XLR. The cable
broke before the connector.

I use the Switchcrafts and recommend them also.


** The shell and other parts are made of Stainless Steel.

Try putting a magnet near one, if you like.



..... Phil
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Trevor Trevor is offline
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On 4/06/2018 4:53 AM, Scott Dorsey wrote:
Phil Allison wrote:
** None are a strong as the old style, full metal ones with the saddle clamp.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XLR_co...connectors.jpg


That's the Canon style ones. They were strong, BUT those screws were always
working their way out and getting lost if you didn't locktite them.


Yes, and I always wrapped colored tape over the connector and screws for
cable identification anyway. Never got lost after that even if they came
loose.

Also the boot materials decayed.


But not as quickly with canon as the cheap imitations.

Trevor.

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geoff geoff is offline
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On 4/06/2018 8:56 PM, Trevor wrote:
On 4/06/2018 4:53 AM, Scott Dorsey wrote:
Phil AllisonÂ* wrote:
** None are a strong as the old style, full metal ones with the
saddle clamp.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XLR_co...connectors.jpg


That's the Canon style ones.Â* They were strong, BUT those screws were
always
working their way out and getting lost if you didn't locktite them.


Yes, and I always wrapped colored tape over the connector and screws for
cable identification anyway. Never got lost after that even if they came
loose.

Also the boot materials decayed.


But not as quickly with canon as the cheap imitations.

Trevor.



OK, just ordered 20 each M and F Switchcraft 'A' series. I assume nobody
was talking about the 'quick' series ones ! Less than US$3 each at B&H.

Yes, the odd Switchcraft I have had in the past has always requires a
drip of Loctite .

90° XLRs sadly a 'can of worms' and added complication, given differing
obstructions L and/or R on different monitor panels. And only lower the
damage fulcrum (potentially more to the socket) by 50%ish anyway.

geoff

geoff
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Mike Rivers[_2_] Mike Rivers[_2_] is offline
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Default Best XLRs ?

Also the boot materials decayed.

On 6/4/2018 4:56 AM, Trevor wrote:
But not as quickly with canon as the cheap imitations.


I know we're not talking about Neutrik XLRs here, but I've, on occasion,
over-tightened the "collet chuck" when trying to clamp a smaller
diameter cable than they're apparently designed for, broken the plastic,
and then the connector becomes useless. I never remember to ask if they
sell replacements for that part. I should. I save the pieces, but
usually that's the only part that breaks.



--

For a good time, call http://mikeriversaudio.wordpress.com


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Scott Dorsey Scott Dorsey is offline
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geoff wrote:

OK, just ordered 20 each M and F Switchcraft 'A' series. I assume nobody
was talking about the 'quick' series ones ! Less than US$3 each at B&H.


In the US, the cheapest prices are usually through Markertek. B&H doesn't
sound bad, though. Switchcraft gives huge discounts to some of these folks,
while companies like Digi-Key that sell list have much higher prices.

Yes, the odd Switchcraft I have had in the past has always requires a
drip of Loctite .

90° XLRs sadly a 'can of worms' and added complication, given differing
obstructions L and/or R on different monitor panels. And only lower the
damage fulcrum (potentially more to the socket) by 50%ish anyway.


It's true. But they can be a benefit if you're careful.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
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geoff geoff is offline
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On 5/06/2018 12:50 AM, Mike Rivers wrote:
Also the boot materials decayed.


On 6/4/2018 4:56 AM, Trevor wrote:
But not as quickly with canon as the cheap imitations.


I know we're not talking about Neutrik XLRs here, but I've, on occasion,
over-tightened the "collet chuck" when trying to clamp a smaller
diameter cable than they're apparently designed for, broken the plastic,
and then the connector becomes useless. I never remember to ask if they
sell replacements for that part. I should. I save the pieces, but
usually that's the only part that breaks.


Neutik, Proel, Tasker - all the same sort of problem. The rubbery type
either just pull out (often fixable) or split/tear (not fixable), while
the harder plastic ones split/fracture.

Yes I've wondered if the rear caps are available separately, but have
never seen any suggestion anywhere that the are for any brand ...

geoff
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Phil Allison[_4_] Phil Allison[_4_] is offline
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Default Best XLRs ?

geoff wrote:



OK, just ordered 20 each M and F Switchcraft 'A' series. I assume nobody
was talking about the 'quick' series ones ! Less than US$3 each at B&H.

Yes, the odd Switchcraft I have had in the past has always requires a
drip of Loctite .



** FYI:

This may be so for the two grub screws that compress the metal cable clamp - but the screw that holds the insert (in both versions) is reverse threaded and captured in the stainless steel housing.


.... Phil
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Trevor Trevor is offline
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On 4/06/2018 10:50 PM, Mike Rivers wrote:
I know we're not talking about Neutrik XLRs here, but I've, on occasion,
over-tightened the "collet chuck" when trying to clamp a smaller
diameter cable than they're apparently designed for, broken the plastic,
and then the connector becomes useless. I never remember to ask if they
sell replacements for that part. I should. I save the pieces, but
usually that's the only part that breaks.


Yep, hate those. But not only are they available here, but in various
colors, which is great for cable identification. Just a PITA replacing them.

Trevor.

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Mike Rivers Mike Rivers is offline
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On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 8:50:58 AM UTC-4, Mike Rivers (that's me) wrote:

I know we're not talking about Neutrik XLRs here, but I've, on occasion,
over-tightened the "collet chuck" when trying to clamp a smaller
diameter cable than they're apparently designed for, broken the plastic,
and then the connector becomes useless. I never remember to ask if they
sell replacements for that part. I should. I save the pieces, but
usually that's the only part that breaks.


I remembered this discussion and stopped by the Neutrik booth at the Infocomm show this afternoon, asking if it was possible to buy the plastic clamp parts individually. They told me that some parts were available and that they only distribute them through Mouser Electronics.

I made an attempt to look them up on mouser.com but there were too many things to sort out. But if you need them, it's probably worth a phone call and let them dig the parts out of the 694 listings for Neutrik XLR.


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Les Cargill[_4_] Les Cargill[_4_] is offline
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Default Best XLRs ?

geoff wrote:
Having a spate of XLRs with their rubber or plastic 'boot'
strain-reliefs getting either simply pulled out of the shell, or worse
ripped, split, whatever , but mostly irreparably damaged.

Short of dumping my clumsy client-base, any suggestions of the best (and
hopefully affordable) brand/model XLRs that can survive stage-use ?

I think the worst use is on stage monitors where monitors get moved or
cables tripped on...

geoff



I don't use much besides premade XLRs outside of the house any more,
but I kind of like the Neutrik NC-FXX style. If it's not enough strain
relief, add shrink tubing.

--
Les Cargill
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geoff geoff is offline
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On 9/06/2018 12:39 PM, Les Cargill wrote:
geoff wrote:
Having a spate of XLRs with their rubber or plastic 'boot'
strain-reliefs getting either simply pulled out of the shell, or worse
ripped, split, whatever , but mostly irreparably damaged.

Short of dumping my clumsy client-base, any suggestions of the best
(and hopefully affordable) brand/model XLRs that can survive stage-use ?

I think the worst use is on stage monitors where monitors get moved or
cables tripped on...

geoff



I don't use much besides premade XLRs outside of the house any more,
but I kind of like the Neutrik NC-FXX style. If it's not enough strain
relief, add shrink tubing.



Yeah have some of those. It's not a case of "not enough strain-relief,
but of that existing strain-relief snapping off !

Some judicious heat-shrink might help, but I am hoping for something
that just survives the rigours natively.

geoff
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