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jhornsbee1 jhornsbee1 is offline
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Default Amp setting help

In my car I have 2 kenwood kac-9103d 1800 watt amps both with a alpine SWR-
1242D running to them. What should i set the levels to on my amps to get the
best performance? The amps have the following level controls

Bass Boost Level (dB) - 0-18
LPF Frequency (Hz) - 50-200
Input Sensitivity (V) - 5(min) - 0.2(max)
ISF (Infrasonic Filter) switch - Off-15Hz-25Hz
Phase switch - 0 - 180

Please anyone know what i should set them to?

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DJ NoMore DJ NoMore is offline
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Default Amp setting help

jhornsbee1 wrote:
In my car I have 2 kenwood kac-9103d 1800 watt amps both with a alpine SWR-
1242D running to them. What should i set the levels to on my amps to get the
best performance? The amps have the following level controls

Bass Boost Level (dB) - 0-18
LPF Frequency (Hz) - 50-200
Input Sensitivity (V) - 5(min) - 0.2(max)
ISF (Infrasonic Filter) switch - Off-15Hz-25Hz
Phase switch - 0 - 180

Please anyone know what i should set them to?

Keep in mind, these are just general rules of thumb, but this is how I
normally roll:

Bass Boost Level (dB) - Whatever sounds right, but no more than 1/2 of
the boost. I have seen way too many individuals crank the bass knob up
all the way on their amps and head unit resulting in horrible sound.
Then again, if you have 24" gold spinning rims on your car, wear sports
jersey's and a lot of gold/platinum, then maybe full bass is the right
setting for you (just kidding).

LPF Frequency (Hz)- Usually around 125 to 180, but I generally use my
ear to tune it

Input Sensitivity - I usually listen to the type of music that I will
generally play, put the head unit at 3/4 max volume, then tune the gains
until I start to notice distortion at the 3/4 volume level. Again, this
is in the eye of the installer/end user because I have seen some
installations where the gains were set so that there was no distortion
at max volume to stop the customer from destroying their speakers. You
have to protect some people from themselves!

ISF (Infrasonic Filter) switch - You can get away with flipping this to
25Hz because chances are you will not hear anything this low and that is
the lower end of what the 1242D is supposed to be able to produce anyhow.

Phase switch - I normally leave this at 0, but some reverse the phase of
their subwoofers. You can let your ear be the judge of this one, but I
have yet to notice a difference if everything is wired properly.
Whatever you do, don't put one at 0 and one at 180 because the result
will be your subwoofers canceling each other out.
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