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#1
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Simple, non-bass-oriented, moderately easy install
Hi folks. Here's an opportunity to help a noob set up his little truck
with a decent audio system. I have a small Nissan truck, the really small one, 1996. It holds 5.25 inch door mounted speakers. This truck is evidently never, ever going to quit. I bought it new in 1996 and now it has almost 100k on it. I've been putting off getting a new radio for about 5 years, thinking it would stop working. But no. I am a musician. I play piano and sing and was a music major. I don't like the bass-oriented systems out there--I like a more classical sound. But I want it loud sometimes because the little truck is loud, especially at highway speeds. I listen to classical, jazz, bluegrass, newgrass--not FiddyCent. I would love to get a good cd/mp3 playing head unit with easy connections for an external unit (like an ipod or something, which I do not own but might purchase something in the future). I need 5.25 speakers in the front. I would love suggestions on a solid pair of speakers. Do I need a mid/bass speaker in the back to supplement the lack of cone-size of the front speakers? I can't imagine getting accurate bass out of them, especially since the mount depth seems pretty shallow. If I do need an additional speaker/s in the back to give accurate bass/mid, and I don't want a thump/thump going down the road, how do I set that up? All the guys I talk to about installing around Orlando have only one mode--Dude, we can make your system thump, dude! Please advise. I am decent enough at install that I think I can do this; I just can't yet get any reliable advice locally. Thank you very much. |
#2
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Simple, non-bass-oriented, moderately easy install
For a simple upgrade that will make everything sound worlds better, put a small amp (50 x 2 or more) on you front speakers. -- Francious70 |
#3
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Simple, non-bass-oriented, moderately easy install
"Cybersaint2k" wrote in message ups.com... Hi folks. Here's an opportunity to help a noob set up his little truck with a decent audio system. I have a small Nissan truck, the really small one, 1996. It holds 5.25 inch door mounted speakers. This truck is evidently never, ever going to quit. I bought it new in 1996 and now it has almost 100k on it. I've been putting off getting a new radio for about 5 years, thinking it would stop working. But no. I am a musician. I play piano and sing and was a music major. I don't like the bass-oriented systems out there--I like a more classical sound. But I want it loud sometimes because the little truck is loud, especially at highway speeds. I listen to classical, jazz, bluegrass, newgrass--not FiddyCent. I would love to get a good cd/mp3 playing head unit with easy connections for an external unit (like an ipod or something, which I do not own but might purchase something in the future). I need 5.25 speakers in the front. I would love suggestions on a solid pair of speakers. Do I need a mid/bass speaker in the back to supplement the lack of cone-size of the front speakers? I can't imagine getting accurate bass out of them, especially since the mount depth seems pretty shallow. If I do need an additional speaker/s in the back to give accurate bass/mid, and I don't want a thump/thump going down the road, how do I set that up? All the guys I talk to about installing around Orlando have only one mode--Dude, we can make your system thump, dude! Please advise. I am decent enough at install that I think I can do this; I just can't yet get any reliable advice locally. Thank you very much. I'm in the Orlando area and there are only a couple shops I would recommend. One is Ultimate Audio on Highway 50 near Pine Hills Rd. A bit pricey, but they do decent work. If you feel confident enough in your abilities, it's always better to do the work yourself. I would recommend a nice set of 5.25" components up front with a 10" sub in a sealed enclosure. I don't know how much money you want to spend so it's hard to give you suggestions. I'm in the middle of my install now and I'm putting in Boston Acoustics Z6 components up front, Pro60 components in the rear, and a 12" sub in a custom center console. Amplifiers are 200 x 2 up front, 200 x 2 in the rear, and 600 x 1 for my substage. It's going in a 2006 Silverado 4x4 crew cab. Good Luck.... Rob |
#4
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Simple, non-bass-oriented, moderately easy install
Thanks, Rob and Francious.
Concerning the 50x2 Amp: All the amps I see on Ebay are 1400 watts, 2000 watts, and so forth. I don't even find them that small. Concerning your setup, Rob, that's great. I have a small truck with a small cab. I think I only need two in the door and one or two mid/bass in the back. My budget, btw, is 350. Yep, US Dollars. I'm looking on Craigslist and ebay for used deals. How about some basic brand names to buy, some to stay away from, and how many channels (two, four?) for the amp. Thank you. |
#5
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Simple, non-bass-oriented, moderately easy install
Here ya go: amp: http://tinyurl.com/efnjf Front Speakers: http://tinyurl.com/p2s4r Sub: http://tinyurl.com/g82bh A little over your price, but you get the point, a good system can be put together for relativly little money. -- Francious70 |
#6
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Simple, non-bass-oriented, moderately easy install
"Francious70" wrote in message ... This is VERY good information and I appreciate Francious doing the leg-work to find you these deals so don't misunderstand, I am only adding my own comments to what is already very helpful advice (I AM NOT criticizing Francious's ideas): http://tinyurl.com/efnjf Excellent Choice!!! This would be a perfect amp for your application. I don't think you could do ANY better for what you need. Front Speakers: http://tinyurl.com/p2s4r Not bad, but if you don't mind buying used, you might be able to do a bit better. Also, speakers are a VERY personal decision. What sounds good to you may not sound good to me. And it also depends on the type of music you listen to. It is ALWAYS best if you can listen first to speakers with YOUR type of music. But generally speakering, you will not go wrong with brands like Polk, Infinity, MB Quart, Focal, JL, Crystal, Dynaudio, and Boston Accoustics. Sub: http://tinyurl.com/g82bh It seems to me this is overkill (a pair of 12's?). I think a single 12 or a pair of 10's would be best. A single 10" is a little lean, IMHO, even for Jazz and Classical if you want to play your music at moderate to loud volumes. Definately go with sealed enclosures as this will give you lower bass extension (and some believe tighter bass, but I DO NOT want to get into a big debate about this). You should be able to find a combination of sub and enclosure for a reasonable amount of money. Check out: http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-KICKER-DC10-...cmd ZViewItem This has the benefit of the enclosure included. If you buy used, you can get something like this much cheaper. Anyway, I don't feel your budget is too low to achieve your goals IF you shop around and do your homework. There are good deals to be had on Ebay, but I will warn you that this is THE VERY WORST time of the year to buy on Ebay as the weather is warming and people are building up their systems for summer. Winter is THE BEST time to buy, prices are about 1/2 to 1/3 what they are right now (just thought I'd let you know). MOSFET A little over your price, but you get the point, a good system can be put together for relativly little money. -- Francious70 |
#7
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Simple, non-bass-oriented, moderately easy install
"Cybersaint2k" wrote in message ups.com... Thanks, Rob and Francious. Concerning the 50x2 Amp: All the amps I see on Ebay are 1400 watts, 2000 watts, and so forth. I don't even find them that small. Concerning your setup, Rob, that's great. I have a small truck with a small cab. I think I only need two in the door and one or two mid/bass in the back. My budget, btw, is 350. Yep, US Dollars. I'm looking on Craigslist and ebay for used deals. How about some basic brand names to buy, some to stay away from, and how many channels (two, four?) for the amp. Thank you. I agree, I was just giving you an idea of what I was doing because my goals are similar. You want a well balanced system that plays as flat as possible without an over emphasis on bass. Obviously, the inside of my truck is atleast 2 1/2 times the size of yours. In your truck with only 1 set of 5.25" components, I don't think 1 single 10" subwoofer is lean at all. Not for sound quality. I installed a system in my fathers 1931 Ford hot rod. I used a 5 channel JL Amp to power 1 set of 6.5" components, 1 set of coaxials, and the 10" sub. It's sounds outstanding. Go to Sound Advice and listen to some different setups before you make a decision. Shoot me an email.... rob at kulpcentral dot com If you're close, I might be able to arrange for you to hear it. Rob |
#8
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Simple, non-bass-oriented, moderately easy install
I would suggest the Aura 4 channel amp at partsexpress.com, its only $100 and a GREAT amp. People rave about the quality of this amp, especally for the money. Use two channels for your front speakers, and bridge the other two channels togeather for a subwoofer. For a sub, since I imagine space will be tight, take a look into some of the different 8" subs avalible. For the price, the assassin 8" and the tang band 8" (tang also at parts express, just $50) would work great. A search on this site will give you lots of into on 8" subs. For front speakers, check out oz audio components. On ebay you can get them pretty resonable, I have seen them as low as $50 shipped, and they are some real nice sounding speakers. Finally, for a head unit, I would browse around ebay and the local newspaper, you may be able to get one at a great price used. Depending on what install accessories you need (mounting kit, wiring harness, etc) crutchfield.com may be a good source. At crutchfield they give you those accessories with your headunit purchase, so you might be able to get a better deal that way. Even with many of the low dollar units out there you can get an aux input avalible. Some even have the aux input on the front, which makes it really easy to hook up whatever you may get in the future, if you dont mind cables in the front like that. Good luck with your upgrades! -- mastarecoil |
#9
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Simple, non-bass-oriented, moderately easy install
Oh yeah...dont forget to use a coupon if you are ordering from crutchfield, they are all over the place. -- mastarecoil |
#10
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Simple, non-bass-oriented, moderately easy install
YES! I forgot about this deal. He's right! That IS the best deal going
right now on a 4 channel amp. If I were in the market for a four channel amp, THAT would be the one I would buy. Aura is a VERY respected brand and has been on the cutting edge of audio technology for many years. This is GREAT ADVICE!!! MOSFET "mastarecoil" wrote in message ... I would suggest the Aura 4 channel amp at partsexpress.com, its only $100 and a GREAT amp. People rave about the quality of this amp, especally for the money. Use two channels for your front speakers, and bridge the other two channels togeather for a subwoofer. For a sub, since I imagine space will be tight, take a look into some of the different 8" subs avalible. For the price, the assassin 8" and the tang band 8" (tang also at parts express, just $50) would work great. A search on this site will give you lots of into on 8" subs. For front speakers, check out oz audio components. On ebay you can get them pretty resonable, I have seen them as low as $50 shipped, and they are some real nice sounding speakers. Finally, for a head unit, I would browse around ebay and the local newspaper, you may be able to get one at a great price used. Depending on what install accessories you need (mounting kit, wiring harness, etc) crutchfield.com may be a good source. At crutchfield they give you those accessories with your headunit purchase, so you might be able to get a better deal that way. Even with many of the low dollar units out there you can get an aux input avalible. Some even have the aux input on the front, which makes it really easy to hook up whatever you may get in the future, if you dont mind cables in the front like that. Good luck with your upgrades! -- mastarecoil |
#11
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Simple, non-bass-oriented, moderately easy install
Thank you all for your help. I've noted your advice very carefully.
Here's where I am so far: I'm going to pick up a Pioneer DEH-2700 off Craigslist for 50$. I'm bidding on a Boss Chaos 4 channel (seller says its 400 watts, but likely the C-350) on Ebay and may pick it up for 35$ total. If I'm wrong and end up having to go with the Aura, then I'm only out 35$. I'm now shopping for the brand names you've graciously listed for front/back speakers. Thanks for your help so far. Reports incoming as I make progress on building the cheapest, nicest stereo system ever known to mankind. MOSFET wrote: YES! I forgot about this deal. He's right! That IS the best deal going right now on a 4 channel amp. If I were in the market for a four channel amp, THAT would be the one I would buy. Aura is a VERY respected brand and has been on the cutting edge of audio technology for many years. This is GREAT ADVICE!!! MOSFET "mastarecoil" wrote in message ... I would suggest the Aura 4 channel amp at partsexpress.com, its only $100 and a GREAT amp. snip For the price, the assassin 8" and the tang band 8" (tang also at parts express, just $50) would work great.snip -- mastarecoil |
#12
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Simple, non-bass-oriented, moderately easy install
Nice deal on the cd player! I put the same one in my sisters car and it is a great unit. -- mastarecoil |
#13
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Simple, non-bass-oriented, moderately easy install
"Rob Kulp" wrote in message .. . "Cybersaint2k" wrote in message ups.com... Thanks, Rob and Francious. Concerning the 50x2 Amp: All the amps I see on Ebay are 1400 watts, 2000 watts, and so forth. I don't even find them that small. Concerning your setup, Rob, that's great. I have a small truck with a small cab. I think I only need two in the door and one or two mid/bass in the back. My budget, btw, is 350. Yep, US Dollars. I'm looking on Craigslist and ebay for used deals. How about some basic brand names to buy, some to stay away from, and how many channels (two, four?) for the amp. Thank you. I agree, I was just giving you an idea of what I was doing because my goals are similar. You want a well balanced system that plays as flat as possible without an over emphasis on bass. Obviously, the inside of my truck is atleast 2 1/2 times the size of yours. In your truck with only 1 set of 5.25" components, I don't think 1 single 10" subwoofer is lean at all. Not for sound quality. I installed a system in my fathers 1931 Ford hot rod. I used a 5 channel JL Amp to power 1 set of 6.5" components, 1 set of coaxials, and the 10" sub. It's sounds outstanding. Go to Sound Advice and listen to some different setups before you make a decision. Shoot me an email.... rob at kulpcentral dot com If you're close, I might be able to arrange for you to hear it. Rob Rob's got it right. My Dakota has a set of a/d/s components (old skool) biamped and a single JL 10W0 in a truck box made by JL. It sounds great. Power comes from a MTX PRO400X5 5 channel amp. I think 350 is pushing it budget wise but for 500 bucks you could easily get something nice. I know where there is a Next 5 ch amp for sale for 100 bucks shipped JL truck boxes pop up in ebay from time to time then a set of nice speakers and you are set! I too work in the music industry, first as alive sound engineer and now an electronics engineer at a university for a music department. You WILL want a small sub in there for listening to classical and jazz, probably not needed for bluegrass though but newgrass it will help for. Chad |
#14
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Simple, non-bass-oriented, moderately easy install
"MOSFET" wrote in message m... "Francious70" wrote in message ... This is VERY good information and I appreciate Francious doing the leg-work to find you these deals so don't misunderstand, I am only adding my own comments to what is already very helpful advice (I AM NOT criticizing Francious's ideas): http://tinyurl.com/efnjf Excellent Choice!!! This would be a perfect amp for your application. I don't think you could do ANY better for what you need. Front Speakers: http://tinyurl.com/p2s4r Not bad, but if you don't mind buying used, you might be able to do a bit better. Also, speakers are a VERY personal decision. What sounds good to you may not sound good to me. And it also depends on the type of music you listen to. It is ALWAYS best if you can listen first to speakers with YOUR type of music. But generally speakering, you will not go wrong with brands like Polk, Infinity, MB Quart, Focal, JL, Crystal, Dynaudio, and Boston Accoustics. Sub: http://tinyurl.com/g82bh It seems to me this is overkill (a pair of 12's?). I think a single 12 or a pair of 10's would be best. A single 10" is a little lean, IMHO, even for Jazz and Classical if you want to play your music at moderate to loud volumes. Definately go with sealed enclosures as this will give you lower bass extension (and some believe tighter bass, but I DO NOT want to get into a big debate about this). You should be able to find a combination of sub and enclosure for a reasonable amount of money. Check out: http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-KICKER-DC10-...cmd ZViewItem This has the benefit of the enclosure included. If you buy used, you can get something like this much cheaper. Anyway, I don't feel your budget is too low to achieve your goals IF you shop around and do your homework. There are good deals to be had on Ebay, but I will warn you that this is THE VERY WORST time of the year to buy on Ebay as the weather is warming and people are building up their systems for summer. Winter is THE BEST time to buy, prices are about 1/2 to 1/3 what they are right now (just thought I'd let you know). MOSFET He will be just fine with a single 10" just a few inched from his kidneys. I use a single 10" in both vehicles and have no problem with it and work with systems that will disrupt your breathing and move your pantlegs relentlessly from 200 feet away. Everyday. A single 10 will do it if the application is properly engineered. Chad |
#15
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Simple, non-bass-oriented, moderately easy install
Update on cheap, simple, audio system:
So far I have the following, all including shipping: Pioneer DEH-2700--50$, pickup tomorrow. Boss Chaos 4 channel, 400 watts, 160rms. 35$ tang band 8" for 53$ I'm bidding on Polk DB 525 5.25" Coaxial Speakers and could get them for as little as 40-45, but I'd pay more. Do you folks have a suggestion on wires/harnesses for online purchase, or can local auto parts stores help? I'm willing to pay retail on wiring--used wires give me the willies. I could get the whole system for 138 plus 50-ish for the Polks plus 50-ish for the harness/wiring, putting me well below my budgeted 350. Heck, I may even pay someone to install it at that rate! LOL! |
#16
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Simple, non-bass-oriented, moderately easy install
Let me give you a little advice, NEVER tell us what you are bidding on in
Ebay (while the auction is still in progress). Remember, you are talking to a WHOLE BUNCH of car audio enthusiasts (sharks) who are ALWAYS on the lookout for deals (like me). Just a tip, MOSFET "Cybersaint2k" wrote in message ups.com... Update on cheap, simple, audio system: So far I have the following, all including shipping: Pioneer DEH-2700--50$, pickup tomorrow. Boss Chaos 4 channel, 400 watts, 160rms. 35$ tang band 8" for 53$ I'm bidding on Polk DB 525 5.25" Coaxial Speakers and could get them for as little as 40-45, but I'd pay more. Do you folks have a suggestion on wires/harnesses for online purchase, or can local auto parts stores help? I'm willing to pay retail on wiring--used wires give me the willies. I could get the whole system for 138 plus 50-ish for the Polks plus 50-ish for the harness/wiring, putting me well below my budgeted 350. Heck, I may even pay someone to install it at that rate! LOL! |
#17
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Simple, non-bass-oriented, moderately easy install
I am not sure which boss amp you got, but do you know if its bridgable, so you can use two channels for one speaker, as you will want to do with your sub? There are tons of places to buy the wiring harnesses online, just google. You can also buy them in stores, and when you factor in shipping often times you might as well just buy it locally. Try walmart, circuit city, best buy, probably in that order, and any other place you might think up. You would probably also be well off with a simple wiring kit, 8ga should be more than fine, but 4ga if you want to play it safe. It will have your power wires, fuse, RCA cables, etc. You can also get those locally or online fairly cheap (20-30 bucks). Ebay is also a good source. Your truck may also need a new bracket or trim bezel to fit the radio, so take a look for that too. 'www.crutchfield.com' (http://www.crutchfield.com) will tell you exactally what you need. If you want to make the install easier for yourself, try to find a prefab box for the tang. Probably your best bet there is to go online and find a sealed box for an 8" sub. Ebay has tons of these for ya, just watch the size (match it to what partsexpress reccomended). If you have a little cash left over, go grab a case of beer and reward yourself for the great bargains you found. If you still have a little more cash left over, I would suggest getting some sound deadening material. Ive never really noticed a big difference acoustically, however, I still love the stuff becuase it takes away so much of the road noise. -- mastarecoil |
#18
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Simple, non-bass-oriented, moderately easy install
Oh yeah...just remembered...a guy on these forums, Ripper, has a bunch of tangs for sale, he was asking 35 a piece plus shipping. You might want to shoot him an email, that would save you a couple more bucks. -- mastarecoil |
#19
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Simple, non-bass-oriented, moderately easy install
Oh yeah...just remembered...a guy on these forums, Ripper, has a bunch of tangs for sale, he was asking 35 a piece plus shipping. You might want to shoot him an email, that would save you a couple more bucks. -- mastarecoil |
#20
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Simple, non-bass-oriented, moderately easy install
Any updates? -- mastarecoil |
#21
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Simple, non-bass-oriented, moderately easy install
mastarecoil wrote:
Any updates? Building simple system on the cheap -- mastarecoil Yes, thank you for asking. I'm still waiting on the Polk DB speakers to arrive. I returned the 500 watt wire kit (it was missing the fuse and holder) and ordered one for half that price from Ebay. I ordered the Nissan wire harness from Ebay for 5$ instead of the 25$ the local auto parts place wanted. So far I have: Pioneer DEH-2700--50$ Boss Chaos 4 channel, 400 watts, 160rms. 35$ Tang band 8" for 53$ and box for 30$. Polk DB 525 5.25" Coaxial Speakers 70$ (waiting) Wiring $25 I may need a 10$ kit that makes my new head unit fit just so into the dash. Install Questions: 1) When running the amp power cable through the firewall, do you always have to drill new holes, or are there sometimes extra holes you can put it through? 2) I'm going to mount the amp under the seat on the same side as my battery. Does that sound right? 3) It looks like all the speaker cables (2x5.25, bridged sub) run from/to the new amp. I'm guessing I attach the existing speaker wires to the new ones and pull the new through the bundle, then run wires under the carpet to the amp, right? Or how do I run new speaker cables through the dash, to the door, through that little snake that connects to the door, then to the speakers? I've never done it. This is the main thing that scares me so far. |
#22
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Simple, non-bass-oriented, moderately easy install
1) You do not always have to drill a hole. Check and see what you have, there may already be a place where cables come into the car thats easy to get to, in which case you can just run your cable through the same spot. Avoid the steering column, though. If you do drill a hole, make sure to put in a rubber grommet or some type of protection to keep the firewall from cutting into the cable. 2) If you put it under your seat, it dosent have to be on the battery side, you can put it on the other, whichever is easiest to you. There are people that put their amps under seats, but I have always been weary about that. Water (especally melting snow) can get there quite easily. I guess the risk depends on what climate you live in. If this worries you in any way, see if you can mount it on a side wall or the rear wall. 3) I would suggest no longer using the stock speaker wires, it just makes things cleaner and it will be less confusing. Your headunit has RCA outputs on it, so use an RCA cable to run from the headunit to the RCA inputs on the amp. From the amplifier speaker outputs you will have three sets of speaker cable coming out. Front left and front right will go to the left and right polk speakers, and rear left and rear right will be bridged togeather, and this set of cables will go to the sub. How you actually run the cables will be all up to you. You just have to see what will work best for your particular vehicle. The good news is they do not need to go back behind the dash (where the radio connects), they go straight from the amp to the speakers. Most vehicles arent that bad, usually you can snake the wire under a carpet, under a trim panel, etc, fairly easily. A coathanger will become your new best friend. Sounds like you are making good progress! -- mastarecoil |
#23
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Simple, non-bass-oriented, moderately easy install
mastarecoil wrote:
From the amplifier speaker outputs you will have three sets of speaker cable coming out. Front left and front right will go to the left and right polk speakers, and rear left and rear right will be bridged togeather, and this set of cables will go to the sub. Sounds like you are making good progress! mastarecoil Well, we have our first problem. I have a Boss Chaos 350C 400 watt 4 channel amp.I wanted to bridge channels 3-4 into the sub. I don't have an instruction manual with the amp. Everywhere I look online, they say the amp is bridgable. These are the ones I read before I purchased it. http://www.bizrate.com/caramplifiers...formation.html http://www.cardomain.com/item/BOSC350 There are dozens more. But these folks say it will NOT bridge: http://mobile-emotions.stores.yahoo....chaosc34c.html The only ones on the Internet that say it's not bridgable--the others say explicitely that it is. Add to this, the diagram on the bottom of the amp, it doesn't reference bridging. There are only level knobs for inputs going into channels 1/2 and 3/4. But on the other side of the amp where you attach the speaker wires, nothing. Here's a link to the boss audio site and the manual. http://www.bossaudio.com/support/ind...loadite mid=5 My reading of the manual says that the c350 is not designed for bridging. It's designed to run 4 speakers. Everyone on the Internet is wrong and these guys at mobile-emotions I linked to above are correct. The rest copied info about other boss chaos amps (internal crossover, ect) and pasted it into the c350, but they were wrong. Anyone have an amp just lying around, a 2 channel amp capable of tri-mode or a 4 channel that will bridge, that they'd like to sell a forum brother? I'll trade you a nice Boss c350 =) |
#24
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Simple, non-bass-oriented, moderately easy install
I would highly reccomend the Aura 4 channel amp at partsexpress.com. Should be about $110 shipped, so maybe thats more than you were hoping to spend, but it is a great amp and will do exactally what you want. -- mastarecoil |
#25
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Simple, non-bass-oriented, moderately easy install
Another Noob update about install of Pioneer DEH-2700 in Nissan 1995
Hardbody Truck: I purchased the Metra gsxL cable to connect the aftermarket head unit to the truck. I see it connects to the truck harness, and that leaves me with 9 naked wires. But now I need a Pioneer harness of some kind--there appears to be a 16 pin connector on the back of the head unit. I have confirmed that this is the proper pin Pioneer head unit. I purchased the following: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tegory=32 812 Thank you for your care and feeding of noobs. I hope this thread can help someone in the future. |
#26
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Simple, non-bass-oriented, moderately easy install
Mastarecoil and Company:
I have everything in hand to hook up the elusive and mysterious Pioneer head to the system. I have a noob question. With the RCA jacks coming out the back of the head carrying the signal back to the amp, I only need to hook up the harness coming from the back of the head to get power, ground, illumination, dimmer--those sorts of things go into the harness, but I don't need anything related to sound going into the harness, right? Thanks. mastarecoil wrote: I would highly reccomend the Aura 4 channel amp at partsexpress.com. Should be about $110 shipped, so maybe thats more than you were hoping to spend, but it is a great amp and will do exactally what you want. -- mastarecoil |
#27
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Simple, non-bass-oriented, moderately easy install
right right. no speaker outputs from the head unit need to be hooked to anything. -- KU40 |
#28
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Simple, non-bass-oriented, moderately easy install
Thank you.
I have an amp problem. Aura RPM Stage 2 4200. I have it wired normally through the front channels. I have it bridged, using the R of channel 3 and the L of channel 4 or + of L and - of R, if you please. I have tested power going into the amp. I have a ground that, when going through the amp, produces sparks when I rub it. I'm grounded to a bolt going into the chassi under the seat that looks to me like a good ground--and I've made good grounds before wiring trailer light harnesses. So: With power and ground going into the amp, I get no power green or protect red light. I get no Aura glowing blue. The manual has nothing--it's not a good manual for anything other than the parts of the amp. Online has no troubleshooting; Aurasound.com has nothing. I checked the two 30amp fuses in the amp. They are good. I checked the 60 amp fuse in the power line. Good. I bypassed the fuse. Still good. Help. KU40 wrote: right right. no speaker outputs from the head unit need to be hooked to anything. -- KU40 |
#29
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Simple, non-bass-oriented, moderately easy install
Sounds like you got it figured out, but in case you were curious what it does, the remote works like a relay, its a switch to turn the amp on. If you have nothing connected to the remote, the amp is off. If you have a 12v source going to it, it will be on. You could just wire 12v from your battery into it, but that would make the amp stay on 24/7, which is unessesary and your battery would quickly drain. The remote wire from your headunit sends out 12v only when the radio is on. That makes it so the amp is on when the headunit is on, which makes good sense. On your headunit it may be called remote, power antenna, accessory, or something of that sort. -- mastarecoil |
#30
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Simple, non-bass-oriented, moderately easy install
Beware that some headunits have an antenna lead AND an amp turn on lead.
The antenna lead on these units is only active when the tuner is on. The amp lead is active when ANY source is selected. This is so you won't be driving around with your antenna up when playing CD's. Chad "Cybersaint2k" wrote in message oups.com... I have a reply to myself. There is one sentence that explains it in the Aura install guide. "This is the remote turn on from the source, usually the power antenna activation lead." So I now will run the antenna activation lead back to the amp to the connection in between the + and - power. Cybersaint2k wrote: Thank you. I have an amp problem. Aura RPM Stage 2 4200. I have it wired normally through the front channels. I have it bridged, using the R of channel 3 and the L of channel 4 or + of L and - of R, if you please. I have tested power going into the amp. I have a ground that, when going through the amp, produces sparks when I rub it. I'm grounded to a bolt going into the chassi under the seat that looks to me like a good ground--and I've made good grounds before wiring trailer light harnesses. So: With power and ground going into the amp, I get no power green or protect red light. I get no Aura glowing blue. The manual has nothing--it's not a good manual for anything other than the parts of the amp. Online has no troubleshooting; Aurasound.com has nothing. I checked the two 30amp fuses in the amp. They are good. I checked the 60 amp fuse in the power line. Good. I bypassed the fuse. Still good. Help. KU40 wrote: right right. no speaker outputs from the head unit need to be hooked to anything. -- KU40 |
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