is the factory deck equipped for amp hook up? doubtful, but maybe. if
it's your first, i'd let the pros do it...alot of wiring and hiding
involved, they'll do it in an hour


--
rawkin
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I have just boughten a 2004 Chevy Malibu Classic and want to add some
subwoofers in the trunk to help the factory radio with bass, I have the subs
and amp already but wanted to keep the factory radio, how do I hook this up?
Sorry for the question but this is my first set of subwoofers in my car.

In order for the amp to turn on, you'll have to hook it up to the
INGNITION+ wire from the back of your beautiflul new radio (I helped GM
design it, so I'm partial .

Please visit the following link below, it'll cover the rest:

http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/S-...all_steps.html
-Mike

"flv dude" wrote in message
oups.com...
In order for the amp to turn on, you'll have to hook it up to the
INGNITION+ wire from the back of your beautiflul new radio (I helped GM
design it, so I'm partial .

Please visit the following link below, it'll cover the rest:

http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/S-...all_steps.html
-Mike

It doesn't need to connect to the back of the radio, it can come from the
fuse block or any switched power source in the vehicle. Removing the radio
to connect a wire there is a waste of your time.

-Bruce

"Bruce Chang" wrote in message
. com...

"flv dude" wrote in message
oups.com...
In order for the amp to turn on, you'll have to hook it up to the
INGNITION+ wire from the back of your beautiflul new radio (I helped GM
design it, so I'm partial .

Please visit the following link below, it'll cover the rest:

http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/S-...all_steps.html
-Mike

It doesn't need to connect to the back of the radio, it can come from the
fuse block or any switched power source in the vehicle. Removing the
radio to connect a wire there is a waste of your time.

-Bruce


What about one of the rear speaker wires?

You have 2 issues to deal with: getting a good supply of power (and
ground) to the amp, and getting a signal from the HU to it. Let's talk
first about getting power back there.

You'll need to run 8 AWG or, preferably, 4 AWG wire from the positive
post on your battery to the amp. You'll also need an inline fuse
installed within 12 inches of the battery. You can usually find a
rubber grommet in the firewall where you can punch thru with a
screwdriver, then feed the wire along side it. Cover the wire from the
battery to the firewall with a piece of split plastic loom. Inside the
car, remove the door sills and tuck the wire under the carpet. Then
you'll need a short length of 8 AWG or 4 AWG ground wire to run from
the amp to a good, paint-free bolt going into metal. Search eBay for
"amp installation kit" that will include all these items.

Now that you've got the power taken care of, you need to get a signal
from the HU to the amp. Hopefully, you chose an amp that has
"high-level" or "speaker-level" inputs. If so, you just tap into the
rear speaker wires for the signal.

Hope this helps you get started. As someone else suggested, you'll
save yourself some grief if you just let a pro do it. But you can save
some money, and gain the pride of a DIY job.

wrote in message
oups.com...
You have 2 issues to deal with: getting a good supply of power (and
ground) to the amp, and getting a signal from the HU to it. Let's talk
first about getting power back there.

You'll need to run 8 AWG or, preferably, 4 AWG wire from the positive
post on your battery to the amp. You'll also need an inline fuse
installed within 12 inches of the battery. You can usually find a
rubber grommet in the firewall where you can punch thru with a
screwdriver, then feed the wire along side it. Cover the wire from the
battery to the firewall with a piece of split plastic loom. Inside the
car, remove the door sills and tuck the wire under the carpet. Then
you'll need a short length of 8 AWG or 4 AWG ground wire to run from
the amp to a good, paint-free bolt going into metal. Search eBay for
"amp installation kit" that will include all these items.

Now that you've got the power taken care of, you need to get a signal
from the HU to the amp. Hopefully, you chose an amp that has
"high-level" or "speaker-level" inputs. If so, you just tap into the
rear speaker wires for the signal.

Hope this helps you get started. As someone else suggested, you'll
save yourself some grief if you just let a pro do it. But you can save
some money, and gain the pride of a DIY job.


THank you, you have been very helpful, I have only 500 bucks to spend so
depending on the box/sub/amp prices I will have it done but if I find my
self short I will try it myself.

Sean,
Take a look at the following PDF. I think this is what you're looking for.

http://www.jlaudio.com/amps/pdfs/SYS_5.pdf

Note that the JL amp features "signal-sensing turn-on." This eliminates
the need for a remote turn-on wire (which of course you won't have
with the factory HU).

John


"Sean Scott" Its@secret wrote in message ...

wrote in message oups.com...
You have 2 issues to deal with: getting a good supply of power (and
ground) to the amp, and getting a signal from the HU to it. Let's talk
first about getting power back there.

You'll need to run 8 AWG or, preferably, 4 AWG wire from the positive
post on your battery to the amp. You'll also need an inline fuse
installed within 12 inches of the battery. You can usually find a
rubber grommet in the firewall where you can punch thru with a
screwdriver, then feed the wire along side it. Cover the wire from the
battery to the firewall with a piece of split plastic loom. Inside the
car, remove the door sills and tuck the wire under the carpet. Then
you'll need a short length of 8 AWG or 4 AWG ground wire to run from
the amp to a good, paint-free bolt going into metal. Search eBay for
"amp installation kit" that will include all these items.

Now that you've got the power taken care of, you need to get a signal
from the HU to the amp. Hopefully, you chose an amp that has
"high-level" or "speaker-level" inputs. If so, you just tap into the
rear speaker wires for the signal.

Hope this helps you get started. As someone else suggested, you'll
save yourself some grief if you just let a pro do it. But you can save
some money, and gain the pride of a DIY job.


THank you, you have been very helpful, I have only 500 bucks to spend so depending on the box/sub/amp prices I will have it done
but if I find my self short I will try it myself.

I think that in order to save money and the fact that I'm not looking for
skull rattling bass, I will go with just amplifying the 6x9s in the rear
deck and not getting subs at this time. I believe the speakers I bought for
the rear deck were 240 Watt peak so what type of amp should I get to power
them, by type I mean wattage not brand.


"JohnV@nn" wrote in message
m...
Sean,
Take a look at the following PDF. I think this is what you're looking
for.

http://www.jlaudio.com/amps/pdfs/SYS_5.pdf

Note that the JL amp features "signal-sensing turn-on." This eliminates
the need for a remote turn-on wire (which of course you won't have
with the factory HU).

John


"Sean Scott" Its@secret wrote in message
...

wrote in message
oups.com...
You have 2 issues to deal with: getting a good supply of power (and
ground) to the amp, and getting a signal from the HU to it. Let's talk
first about getting power back there.

You'll need to run 8 AWG or, preferably, 4 AWG wire from the positive
post on your battery to the amp. You'll also need an inline fuse
installed within 12 inches of the battery. You can usually find a
rubber grommet in the firewall where you can punch thru with a
screwdriver, then feed the wire along side it. Cover the wire from the
battery to the firewall with a piece of split plastic loom. Inside the
car, remove the door sills and tuck the wire under the carpet. Then
you'll need a short length of 8 AWG or 4 AWG ground wire to run from
the amp to a good, paint-free bolt going into metal. Search eBay for
"amp installation kit" that will include all these items.

Now that you've got the power taken care of, you need to get a signal
from the HU to the amp. Hopefully, you chose an amp that has
"high-level" or "speaker-level" inputs. If so, you just tap into the
rear speaker wires for the signal.

Hope this helps you get started. As someone else suggested, you'll
save yourself some grief if you just let a pro do it. But you can save
some money, and gain the pride of a DIY job.


THank you, you have been very helpful, I have only 500 bucks to spend so
depending on the box/sub/amp prices I will have it done but if I find my
self short I will try it myself.

So you're saying you'll replace the factory rear speakers and leave the front stockers; power the rears with an amp and power the
fronts from the factory HU; and no sub. I strongly suspect you will not be happy with this setup. I would just leave it all
stock before I'd do this.




"Sean Scott" Its@secret wrote in message ...
I think that in order to save money and the fact that I'm not looking for skull rattling bass, I will go with just amplifying the
6x9s in the rear deck and not getting subs at this time. I believe the speakers I bought for the rear deck were 240 Watt peak so
what type of amp should I get to power them, by type I mean wattage not brand.


"JohnV@nn" wrote in message m...
Sean,
Take a look at the following PDF. I think this is what you're looking for.

http://www.jlaudio.com/amps/pdfs/SYS_5.pdf

Note that the JL amp features "signal-sensing turn-on." This eliminates
the need for a remote turn-on wire (which of course you won't have
with the factory HU).

John


"Sean Scott" Its@secret wrote in message ...

wrote in message oups.com...
You have 2 issues to deal with: getting a good supply of power (and
ground) to the amp, and getting a signal from the HU to it. Let's talk
first about getting power back there.

You'll need to run 8 AWG or, preferably, 4 AWG wire from the positive
post on your battery to the amp. You'll also need an inline fuse
installed within 12 inches of the battery. You can usually find a
rubber grommet in the firewall where you can punch thru with a
screwdriver, then feed the wire along side it. Cover the wire from the
battery to the firewall with a piece of split plastic loom. Inside the
car, remove the door sills and tuck the wire under the carpet. Then
you'll need a short length of 8 AWG or 4 AWG ground wire to run from
the amp to a good, paint-free bolt going into metal. Search eBay for
"amp installation kit" that will include all these items.

Now that you've got the power taken care of, you need to get a signal
from the HU to the amp. Hopefully, you chose an amp that has
"high-level" or "speaker-level" inputs. If so, you just tap into the
rear speaker wires for the signal.

Hope this helps you get started. As someone else suggested, you'll
save yourself some grief if you just let a pro do it. But you can save
some money, and gain the pride of a DIY job.


THank you, you have been very helpful, I have only 500 bucks to spend so depending on the box/sub/amp prices I will have it
done but if I find my self short I will try it myself.

"JohnV@nn" wrote in message
m...
So you're saying you'll replace the factory rear speakers and leave the
front stockers; power the rears with an amp and power the fronts from the
factory HU; and no sub. I strongly suspect you will not be happy with
this setup. I would just leave it all stock before I'd do this.


Except for the HU that is right, I was going to use the money saved on subs
to buy an aftermarket HU.
I supposed I could replace the front 4x6 with some aftermarkets but didnt
think 4x6 would make tha tmuch of a diff, they had some pioneer, 100 watt
max 4x6 for 45 bucks I could grab.



"Sean Scott" Its@secret wrote in message
...
I think that in order to save money and the fact that I'm not looking for
skull rattling bass, I will go with just amplifying the 6x9s in the rear
deck and not getting subs at this time. I believe the speakers I bought
for the rear deck were 240 Watt peak so what type of amp should I get to
power them, by type I mean wattage not brand.


"JohnV@nn" wrote in message
m...
Sean,
Take a look at the following PDF. I think this is what you're looking
for.

http://www.jlaudio.com/amps/pdfs/SYS_5.pdf

Note that the JL amp features "signal-sensing turn-on." This eliminates
the need for a remote turn-on wire (which of course you won't have
with the factory HU).

John


"Sean Scott" Its@secret wrote in message
...

wrote in message
oups.com...
You have 2 issues to deal with: getting a good supply of power (and
ground) to the amp, and getting a signal from the HU to it. Let's
talk
first about getting power back there.

You'll need to run 8 AWG or, preferably, 4 AWG wire from the positive
post on your battery to the amp. You'll also need an inline fuse
installed within 12 inches of the battery. You can usually find a
rubber grommet in the firewall where you can punch thru with a
screwdriver, then feed the wire along side it. Cover the wire from
the
battery to the firewall with a piece of split plastic loom. Inside
the
car, remove the door sills and tuck the wire under the carpet. Then
you'll need a short length of 8 AWG or 4 AWG ground wire to run from
the amp to a good, paint-free bolt going into metal. Search eBay for
"amp installation kit" that will include all these items.

Now that you've got the power taken care of, you need to get a signal
from the HU to the amp. Hopefully, you chose an amp that has
"high-level" or "speaker-level" inputs. If so, you just tap into the
rear speaker wires for the signal.

Hope this helps you get started. As someone else suggested, you'll
save yourself some grief if you just let a pro do it. But you can
save
some money, and gain the pride of a DIY job.


THank you, you have been very helpful, I have only 500 bucks to spend
so depending on the box/sub/amp prices I will have it done but if I
find my self short I will try it myself.

I would recommend replacing all the factory speakers. FYI, here's what I did in my Mustang.

Replaced the stock speakers with some Polk 6x8 coaxial (rear) and 6.5 components (front). Put the tweeters where the stock dash
speakers were. Everything covered with factory grills to thwart thieves. Put the crossovers for the components under the front
seats.

Replaced factory HU with an Alpine that had separate front, rear and sub outputs.

Installed a 4-channel amp in the rear (hatch) area. Ran wire from amp to speakers; ran RCA cables (two sets) from HU to amp.
Also ran a third RCA cable from the sub-out to hatch area (for future).

Ran with this setup for about 4 months. Sounded MUCH better than the stock system; decent bass; overall a good sounding system.

Then added sub. :-) Installed a mono amp along side the 4-channel in the hatch. Connected the RCA cable that I ran earlier.
Bought a JL 8W7 on eBay; built a sealed enclosure from MDF; installed the sub, hooked it up to the mono amp.

Now it sounds great. Not perfect, but great. It needs more midbass (don't we all). I am thinking of adding some kind of
enclosure behind the 6.5 and 6x8, and maybe some sound deadening in the doors. One thing I like about this hobby is you can
always make it sound "just a little bit better." :-)

John

"Sean Scott" Its@secret wrote in message ...

"JohnV@nn" wrote in message m...
So you're saying you'll replace the factory rear speakers and leave the front stockers; power the rears with an amp and power
the fronts from the factory HU; and no sub. I strongly suspect you will not be happy with this setup. I would just leave it
all stock before I'd do this.


Except for the HU that is right, I was going to use the money saved on subs to buy an aftermarket HU.
I supposed I could replace the front 4x6 with some aftermarkets but didnt think 4x6 would make tha tmuch of a diff, they had
some pioneer, 100 watt max 4x6 for 45 bucks I could grab.



"Sean Scott" Its@secret wrote in message ...
I think that in order to save money and the fact that I'm not looking for skull rattling bass, I will go with just amplifying
the 6x9s in the rear deck and not getting subs at this time. I believe the speakers I bought for the rear deck were 240 Watt
peak so what type of amp should I get to power them, by type I mean wattage not brand.


"JohnV@nn" wrote in message m...
Sean,
Take a look at the following PDF. I think this is what you're looking for.

http://www.jlaudio.com/amps/pdfs/SYS_5.pdf

Note that the JL amp features "signal-sensing turn-on." This eliminates
the need for a remote turn-on wire (which of course you won't have
with the factory HU).

John


"Sean Scott" Its@secret wrote in message ...

wrote in message oups.com...
You have 2 issues to deal with: getting a good supply of power (and
ground) to the amp, and getting a signal from the HU to it. Let's talk
first about getting power back there.

You'll need to run 8 AWG or, preferably, 4 AWG wire from the positive
post on your battery to the amp. You'll also need an inline fuse
installed within 12 inches of the battery. You can usually find a
rubber grommet in the firewall where you can punch thru with a
screwdriver, then feed the wire along side it. Cover the wire from the
battery to the firewall with a piece of split plastic loom. Inside the
car, remove the door sills and tuck the wire under the carpet. Then
you'll need a short length of 8 AWG or 4 AWG ground wire to run from
the amp to a good, paint-free bolt going into metal. Search eBay for
"amp installation kit" that will include all these items.

Now that you've got the power taken care of, you need to get a signal
from the HU to the amp. Hopefully, you chose an amp that has
"high-level" or "speaker-level" inputs. If so, you just tap into the
rear speaker wires for the signal.

Hope this helps you get started. As someone else suggested, you'll
save yourself some grief if you just let a pro do it. But you can save
some money, and gain the pride of a DIY job.


THank you, you have been very helpful, I have only 500 bucks to spend so depending on the box/sub/amp prices I will have it
done but if I find my self short I will try it myself.

rawkin Wrote:
is the factory deck equipped for amp hook up? doubtful, but maybe. if
it's your first, i'd let the pros do it...alot of wiring and hiding
involved, they'll do it in an hour

better yet. take the $$ you save on installing yourself, and by an
alpine hu. late model ok


--
uzziah
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