I intend to put a pair of Infinity Perfect 6.1s and a pair of Kicker
SSMB8 8" Midbass in the front doors of my vehicle. I currently own 3
amps. One 4x50 Crunch amp, one 2x100 Crunch amp, and one Orion XTR800.
Obviously I'm going to use the Orion amp to power my subs so we will
take that one out of the equation. I'm assuming that the 4x50 Crunch
amp will be too little power for this setup so I've already decided to
sell it. My question is, is there a way to use a 2 channel amp to power
this setup and still make it sound good or should I purchase another
100(+) watt amp and use the Crunch 2x100 on the Infinitys and the new
amp on the Kickers? Also, if I purchase another amp, is there a way to
lower the ohm load that an amp sees if you only have one pair of single
voice-coil speakers attached to it? I only ask this because I may find
that I need more than 100 watts for the Infinitys and I'd really like
to be able to use the amp that I currently have. Any help you can give
would be greatly appreciated.

"mightymouse68" wrote in message
ups.com...
I intend to put a pair of Infinity Perfect 6.1s and a pair of Kicker
SSMB8 8" Midbass in the front doors of my vehicle. I currently own 3
amps. One 4x50 Crunch amp, one 2x100 Crunch amp, and one Orion XTR800.
Obviously I'm going to use the Orion amp to power my subs so we will
take that one out of the equation. I'm assuming that the 4x50 Crunch
amp will be too little power for this setup so I've already decided to
sell it. My question is, is there a way to use a 2 channel amp to power
this setup and still make it sound good or should I purchase another
100(+) watt amp and use the Crunch 2x100 on the Infinitys and the new
amp on the Kickers? Also, if I purchase another amp, is there a way to
lower the ohm load that an amp sees if you only have one pair of single
voice-coil speakers attached to it? I only ask this because I may find
that I need more than 100 watts for the Infinitys and I'd really like
to be able to use the amp that I currently have. Any help you can give
would be greatly appreciated.


use the 4x50 on the kickers. bridge it to two channels. you should have
around 125w per side for those. use the 2*100 for the infinities.

use the 4x50 on the kickers. bridge it to two channels. you should have
around 125w per side for those. use the 2*100 for the infinities.

Scott stole my thunder again....this is getting annoying.

This is exactly what I would do if I were in your situation.

MOSFET

"MOSFET" wrote in message
news
use the 4x50 on the kickers. bridge it to two channels. you should have
around 125w per side for those. use the 2*100 for the infinities.

Scott stole my thunder again....this is getting annoying.

This is exactly what I would do if I were in your situation.

MOSFET



Sorry, At the time I had nothing else to do.

Thanks for the advice. Hopefully that will be enough power.

....
Thanks for the advice. Hopefully that will be enough power.

125 watts for midbass and 100 watts for midrange/treble...I should hope it
will be enough!

I mean, think about a home system (watts are watts, you know), would 225
watts per channel for the fronts be considered enough (and that assumes an
outboard sub!!)?

With the advent of class D and other technologies in the last 10 years, I've
seen power specs balloon in automotive amplifiers (ten years ago, a true
1000 watt amp was rare) and we have all become a little watts crazy, mainly
because when it comes to bass, there's no such thing as enough power (and
that certainly goes for me!).

But here's the dirty little secret that most amp manufacturers don't want
you to know (I worked for Phoenix Gold in Portland, OR): if you're pushing
much more than 500 watts, your stock electrical system probably can't keep
up. In other words, if you go and buy that 1500 watts class D behemouth
(or fill your car with 200+ watts amps) without buying a new alternator
(caps help, but can't prduce power from thin air), you are basically wasting
your money.

MOSFET

The only reason I'm concerned about it not being enough power is I want
to be able to play my music loud and still have it be clear. A little
wattage headroom can't hurt, right? Also, I drive a ZX2 so it tends to
let in a lot of road noise. Sound dampening materials help somewhat but
they can only do so much to compensate for cheap auto engineering. I
certainly agree that I will have to upgrade the alternator. Currently
I'm running front and rear speakers off of my Alpine HU and I have the
2x100 Crunch amp bridged to my subs and certain music already causes my
lights to dim a little. How sad is that?

In article .com,
"mightymouse68" wrote:

The only reason I'm concerned about it not being enough power is I want
to be able to play my music loud and still have it be clear. A little
wattage headroom can't hurt, right? Also, I drive a ZX2 so it tends to
let in a lot of road noise. Sound dampening materials help somewhat but
they can only do so much to compensate for cheap auto engineering. I
certainly agree that I will have to upgrade the alternator. Currently
I'm running front and rear speakers off of my Alpine HU and I have the
2x100 Crunch amp bridged to my subs and certain music already causes my
lights to dim a little. How sad is that?


Remember as well that simple wattage cannot give you loudness, one needs
cone area to use that wattage wisely.

--
Cyrus

*coughcasaucedoprodigynetcough*

The only reason I'm concerned about it not being enough power is I want
to be able to play my music loud and still have it be clear. A little
wattage headroom can't hurt, right?

Absolutely. In fact, after I wrote my last message it occured to me in the
home audio world audiophiles go out and buy 400 watt Mark Levinson monsters
just so they have the headroom.

The point I was trying to make in my last post (but it didn't come out very
clear), is that 225 watts per channel playing 80 Hz on up (with adequate
speakers, of course) should be able to make most human's ears bleed. If it
does not seem clear enough or loud enough to you, chances are it is because
your electrical system can't keep up with the demands of your amps. Maybe
this does not apply to you (perhaps you have a large aftermarket alternator
in your car), but I thought I would throw it out as I see this problem all
the time. Upgrading your electrical system is expensive and certainly not
as fun and sexy as that big, shiny new class D amp, but if you want big,
CLEAR sound, it's just as necessary.

MOSFET