hi, I just bought a new 06 accord sedan with navigation and I want to add a
sub (the factory systems high and mids are pretty decent as stock systems go
but has no low end) I have an older rockford fosgate 12" sub (punch HE) in a
sealed box I'd like to use (specs I've seen is that it can handle 200 RMS, 4
ohm sub) any suggestions on what amp to get for it? I have to use a line
level converter because there arnt any preouts on the stock Navi head unit.
I had an OLD rockford 75.2 punch amp that I used in the past but I since
sold it, I didn't like hwo you adjusted the gains on it (REALLY tiny hole I
could never fit anything into) Can someone recommend an amp with a knob to
adjust the gains, or at least somethign thats easy to adjust, also looking
for an integrated low pass crossover. sould I look at getting a mono amp
that will do 200 RMS? or get a 2 channel and bridge it? I'm not looking to
break the bank, I saw an audiobahn amp on ebay that was going for 40 bucks
and did 200 RMS. it's a DUB 1002 model number? would I need a cap for this
sytem at all (even if it's just 1/2 fared). sorry for all the questions.
thanks in advance

-Nick

sorry final question. the specs on that amp say 200 X 1 @ 4 ohm. using a
single 4 ohm sub, when I bridge the 2 channels, will it be a 4 ohm load or a
2 ohm load? if it's the latter, will this amp still work for me? if not what
SHOULD I be looking for?, thanks again

In article LrEnf.3988$9G.3290@dukeread10, "Dr Nick"
wrote:

hi, I just bought a new 06 accord sedan with navigation and I want to add a
sub (the factory systems high and mids are pretty decent as stock systems go
but has no low end) I have an older rockford fosgate 12" sub (punch HE) in a
sealed box I'd like to use (specs I've seen is that it can handle 200 RMS, 4
ohm sub) any suggestions on what amp to get for it? I have to use a line
level converter because there arnt any preouts on the stock Navi head unit.
I had an OLD rockford 75.2 punch amp that I used in the past but I since
sold it, I didn't like hwo you adjusted the gains on it (REALLY tiny hole I
could never fit anything into)

Too bad, I would've taken that off your hands.

Can someone recommend an amp with a knob to
adjust the gains, or at least somethign thats easy to adjust, also looking
for an integrated low pass crossover. sould I look at getting a mono amp
that will do 200 RMS?

Sure, a little bit more power couldn't hurt either. Check out the 4ohm
mono/bridged specs. Get something classD, smaller form factor and very
little if any heat issues.

or get a 2 channel and bridge it? I'm not looking to
break the bank, I saw an audiobahn amp on ebay that was going for 40 bucks
and did 200 RMS. it's a DUB 1002 model number? would I need a cap for this
sytem at all (even if it's just 1/2 fared).

If you can justify the purpose you'll use the cap for, as opposed to
price. Then go with a cap. IMO with single or even dual amp setups, a
cap is a bandaid.

sorry for all the questions.
thanks in advance

-Nick




--
Cyrus

*coughcasaucedoprodigynetcough*

In article JHEnf.3991$9G.1658@dukeread10, "Dr Nick"
wrote:

sorry final question. the specs on that amp say 200 X 1 @ 4 ohm. using a
single 4 ohm sub, when I bridge the 2 channels, will it be a 4 ohm load or a
2 ohm load? if it's the latter, will this amp still work for me? if not what
SHOULD I be looking for?, thanks again



4ohm mono load is the topical answer.

--
Cyrus

*coughcasaucedoprodigynetcough*

MTX amps have a high level input, as well as smart engage ( no need for a
remote power on wire) I'd go with a class D amp, it will run cooler and
use less hydro then a class A/B amp of the same power rating running bridged.
MTX 251D, 311D, 411D, 4250D or 421D would do the trick. If you dont mind
shopping on Ebay you can get then dirt cheap. So cheap in fact that I have two
MTX 1501D's running a pair of alpine r12's and two MTX 942's running a pair of
6x9's each LOL.



In article LrEnf.3988$9G.3290@dukeread10, "Dr Nick" wrote:
hi, I just bought a new 06 accord sedan with navigation and I want to add a
sub (the factory systems high and mids are pretty decent as stock systems go
but has no low end) I have an older rockford fosgate 12" sub (punch HE) in a
sealed box I'd like to use (specs I've seen is that it can handle 200 RMS, 4
ohm sub) any suggestions on what amp to get for it? I have to use a line
level converter because there arnt any preouts on the stock Navi head unit.
I had an OLD rockford 75.2 punch amp that I used in the past but I since
sold it, I didn't like hwo you adjusted the gains on it (REALLY tiny hole I
could never fit anything into) Can someone recommend an amp with a knob to
adjust the gains, or at least somethign thats easy to adjust, also looking
for an integrated low pass crossover. sould I look at getting a mono amp
that will do 200 RMS? or get a 2 channel and bridge it? I'm not looking to
break the bank, I saw an audiobahn amp on ebay that was going for 40 bucks
and did 200 RMS. it's a DUB 1002 model number? would I need a cap for this
sytem at all (even if it's just 1/2 fared). sorry for all the questions.
thanks in advance

-Nick

The amp will see a 2ohm load.

In article JHEnf.3991$9G.1658@dukeread10, "Dr Nick" wrote:
sorry final question. the specs on that amp say 200 X 1 @ 4 ohm. using a
single 4 ohm sub, when I bridge the 2 channels, will it be a 4 ohm load or a
2 ohm load? if it's the latter, will this amp still work for me? if not what
SHOULD I be looking for?, thanks again

If you can justify the purpose you'll use the cap for, as opposed to
price. Then go with a cap. IMO with single or even dual amp setups, a
cap is a bandaid.

how do you mean a cap being a "bandaid"? I found a few caps on ebay (a few
ranging from .5-1.5 fared) for 30-50 bucks or so. are all caps created
equil? one I saw was a monster cable brand. anyone use one of these? I found
a alpine mrp-m350 amp for a pretty ghood price (can get it for around
130-150 shipped). puts out 200 watts RMS @ 4 ohms (mono channel class D amp)
seems like it would bea perfect fit for my rockford. never owned anything
alpine except for a tape player WAY back in the day. how are their amps?
does anyoen know if they have a gain knob or if they need to be adjusted
with a screwdrive? Again sorry for all the newbie questions. I've done car
audio myself before buying a ****ty moble authority amp and 2 - 10" ****ty
subs... and boy did I learn my lesson... just trying to get some info before
I buy. Thanks!

-Nick

"No-one" wrote in message
...
MTX amps have a high level input, as well as smart engage ( no need for a
remote power on wire) I'd go with a class D amp, it will run cooler and
use less hydro then a class A/B amp of the same power rating running
bridged.
MTX 251D, 311D, 411D, 4250D or 421D would do the trick. If you dont mind
shopping on Ebay you can get then dirt cheap. So cheap in fact that I have
two
MTX 1501D's running a pair of alpine r12's and two MTX 942's running a
pair of
6x9's each LOL.

would you recommend the alpine I mentioned above (the MRP-M350) or an MTX
(421D)? Also should I hook directly from the speaker line in? or use a low
level converter to convert it to RCA's? thanks

"No-one" wrote in message
...
The amp will see a 2ohm load.

no, it wont

bridging does nothing to the impedence of the sub


In article JHEnf.3991$9G.1658@dukeread10, "Dr Nick"
wrote:
sorry final question. the specs on that amp say 200 X 1 @ 4 ohm. using a
single 4 ohm sub, when I bridge the 2 channels, will it be a 4 ohm load or
a
2 ohm load? if it's the latter, will this amp still work for me? if not
what
SHOULD I be looking for?, thanks again

"No-one" wrote in message
...
The amp will see a 2ohm load.

In article JHEnf.3991$9G.1658@dukeread10, "Dr Nick"
wrote:
sorry final question. the specs on that amp say 200 X 1 @ 4 ohm. using a
single 4 ohm sub, when I bridge the 2 channels, will it be a 4 ohm load or
a
2 ohm load? if it's the latter, will this amp still work for me? if not
what
SHOULD I be looking for?, thanks again



The load never changes. The subwoofer cannot change from 4 ohms to 2 ohms.
The amp would act as if both channels were seeing a 2 ohm load if it were
bridged with a 4 ohm speaker. If you use a 2 ohm load on an amp that is not
stable to 2 ohm bridged (or 1 ohm stereo), then you will probably fry the
amp. If you have a 4 ohm speaker, you're looking for an amp that is 2 ohm
stable if you're going to bridge it.

-Bruce

The load never changes. The subwoofer cannot change from 4 ohms to 2
ohms. The amp would act as if both channels were seeing a 2 ohm load if it
were bridged with a 4 ohm speaker. If you use a 2 ohm load on an amp that
is not stable to 2 ohm bridged (or 1 ohm stereo), then you will probably
fry the amp. If you have a 4 ohm speaker, you're looking for an amp that
is 2 ohm stable if you're going to bridge it.

-Bruce

ok thats why I'm going to go with a Class D mono amp. looking at the almpine
MRP-M350 and the MTX 421D amp. any suggestions? also the specs I'm seeing
say 210 watts X 1 at 4 ohms (for the mtx) at 14.4 volts, hwo do I know how
much voltage it will be pulling? does that constantly change?

"Dr Nick" wrote in message
news:Qp0of.8139$9G.3769@dukeread10...
The load never changes. The subwoofer cannot change from 4 ohms to 2
ohms. The amp would act as if both channels were seeing a 2 ohm load if
it were bridged with a 4 ohm speaker. If you use a 2 ohm load on an amp
that is not stable to 2 ohm bridged (or 1 ohm stereo), then you will
probably fry the amp. If you have a 4 ohm speaker, you're looking for an
amp that is 2 ohm stable if you're going to bridge it.

-Bruce

ok thats why I'm going to go with a Class D mono amp. looking at the
almpine MRP-M350 and the MTX 421D amp. any suggestions? also the specs I'm
seeing say 210 watts X 1 at 4 ohms (for the mtx) at 14.4 volts, hwo do I
know how much voltage it will be pulling? does that constantly change?


I'm sorry, I didn't bother looking up the model numbers. Do your homework
and decide what's best for you.

In regards to your questions, amps don't "pull" voltage, voltage is supplied
to your amp. When the car is running, it should be getting somewhere in the
neighborhood of 13.8 to 14.4 volts. That means the alternator is trying to
charge your battery. When the engine is not running, the battery should be
supplying 12.6 volts (if it's fully charged). When a manufacturer quotes a
power at a certain voltage, more than likely at a lower supply voltage, the
amp will not be able to put out that same power.

-Bruce

In regards to your questions, amps don't "pull" voltage, voltage is
supplied to your amp. When the car is running, it should be getting
somewhere in the neighborhood of 13.8 to 14.4 volts. That means the
alternator is trying to charge your battery. When the engine is not
running, the battery should be supplying 12.6 volts (if it's fully
charged). When a manufacturer quotes a power at a certain voltage, more
than likely at a lower supply voltage, the amp will not be able to put out
that same power.

-Bruce

thanks bruce for your answers. woudl that voltage be steady or "more" steady
if I added a cap (even if it's just .5 or 1 fared)? Thanks!

"Dr Nick" wrote in message
news:dm1of.8140$9G.1142@dukeread10...

In regards to your questions, amps don't "pull" voltage, voltage is
supplied to your amp. When the car is running, it should be getting
somewhere in the neighborhood of 13.8 to 14.4 volts. That means the
alternator is trying to charge your battery. When the engine is not
running, the battery should be supplying 12.6 volts (if it's fully
charged). When a manufacturer quotes a power at a certain voltage, more
than likely at a lower supply voltage, the amp will not be able to put
out that same power.

-Bruce

thanks bruce for your answers. woudl that voltage be steady or "more"
steady if I added a cap (even if it's just .5 or 1 fared)? Thanks!


It depends on a lot of factors; alternator, wiring size, battery, etc. If
you've got it set up properly, you shouldn't need a capacitor. If you
install your setup and your lights start dimming when your amp plays a loud
note, then a capacitor could help. More than likely, you've used wiring
that was under-sized or your alternator can't supply enough power or you
have a marginal battery or a combination of any of those. When an amp draws
a lot of current, it will load the electrical system. If it loads it
enough, meaning the system cannot supply the current your amplifier is
demanding, the voltage will drop and your lights will dim. The capacitor is
able to supply your amp with the current it needs but only for short periods
of time (on the order of seconds if even that).

The short answer is a capacitor couldn't make the system any less stabile
but it may not add any stability either.

If it means anything, I have a .5 lightning audio capacitor in my Firebird.
I have two amps running roughly 1000W RMS combined.

-Bruce

No ****, But the amp sees a 2ohm load when bridged, unlike the 4ohm load that
it would see if it was not being bridged.


In article , "spr" jaybruce
(take out big space) @hotmail.com wrote:

"No-one" wrote in message
...
The amp will see a 2ohm load.

no, it wont

bridging does nothing to the impedence of the sub


In article JHEnf.3991$9G.1658@dukeread10, "Dr Nick"
wrote:
sorry final question. the specs on that amp say 200 X 1 @ 4 ohm. using a
single 4 ohm sub, when I bridge the 2 channels, will it be a 4 ohm load or
a
2 ohm load? if it's the latter, will this amp still work for me? if not
what
SHOULD I be looking for?, thanks again

This is a personal point of view, I never liked alpine amps I always found
them to run a little too hot and found them to be somewhat over rated power
wise. On the other hand I have always liked their speakers.

would you recommend the alpine I mentioned above (the MRP-M350) or an MTX
(421D)?

Not sure about the alpine, but the mtx does have high level inputs, so no
converter is needed, just run your speaker wires into the amp, You wont even
need a remote power on wire for that amp. You can get a manual at mtx.com for
more info.



Also should I hook directly from the speaker line in? or use a low
level converter to convert it to RCA's? thanks

Car audio caps are very much created equil with only a few minor differances,
unless you are looking at radiual caps vs hybrid caps. Dont get suckered into
paying twice as much for a cap because it says stinger or rockford on it.




how do you mean a cap being a "bandaid"? I found a few caps on ebay (a few
ranging from .5-1.5 fared) for 30-50 bucks or so. are all caps created
equil? one I saw was a monster cable brand. anyone use one of these? I found
a alpine mrp-m350 amp for a pretty ghood price (can get it for around
130-150 shipped). puts out 200 watts RMS @ 4 ohms (mono channel class D amp)
seems like it would bea perfect fit for my rockford. never owned anything
alpine except for a tape player WAY back in the day. how are their amps?
does anyoen know if they have a gain knob or if they need to be adjusted
with a screwdrive? Again sorry for all the newbie questions. I've done car
audio myself before buying a ****ty moble authority amp and 2 - 10" ****ty
subs... and boy did I learn my lesson... just trying to get some info before
I buy. Thanks!

-Nick

"No-one" wrote in message
...
No ****, But the amp sees a 2ohm load when bridged, unlike the 4ohm load
that
it would see if it was not being bridged.

amp not channel

The amp 'sees' what ever is connected to it. If you mean to say that each
channel sees a 2ohm load, thats not really correct either. Are you using
both connections from each channel? No, your using one from both to create a
NEW/different circuit which 'sees' 4 ohms. Saying an amp sees a lower ohm is
confusing to many people and is wrong anyway.

By your logic, if I had an amp that was stable at 2ohms bridged I'd have to
buy a 4ohm speaker since it would 'see' it as two ohms. (which is obviously
wrong)

I guess I better not connect my 1ohm subs to my 1ohm stable bridged amp
because it'll 'see' a .5ohm load and have an aneurysm!!






In article , "spr"
jaybruce
(take out big space) @hotmail.com wrote:

"No-one" wrote in message
...
The amp will see a 2ohm load.

no, it wont

bridging does nothing to the impedence of the sub

In article WDNnf.28881$QW2.10102@dukeread08,
"Dr Nick" wrote:

If you can justify the purpose you'll use the cap for, as opposed to
price. Then go with a cap. IMO with single or even dual amp setups, a
cap is a bandaid.

how do you mean a cap being a "bandaid"? I found a few caps on ebay (a few
ranging from .5-1.5 fared) for 30-50 bucks or so. are all caps created
equil? one I saw was a monster cable brand. anyone use one of these? I found
a alpine mrp-m350 amp for a pretty ghood price (can get it for around
130-150 shipped). puts out 200 watts RMS @ 4 ohms (mono channel class D amp)
seems like it would bea perfect fit for my rockford. never owned anything
alpine except for a tape player WAY back in the day. how are their amps?
does anyoen know if they have a gain knob or if they need to be adjusted
with a screwdrive? Again sorry for all the newbie questions. I've done car
audio myself before buying a ****ty moble authority amp and 2 - 10" ****ty
subs... and boy did I learn my lesson... just trying to get some info before
I buy. Thanks!

-Nick



I mean 'band-aid' if your intent is to use a cap to stop your lights
from blinking.

If your intent for a cap is for vanity of some sort and its your thing..
by all means spend all the money you want.

--
Cyrus

*coughcasaucedoprodigynetcough*

I mean 'band-aid' if your intent is to use a cap to stop your lights
from blinking.

If your intent for a cap is for vanity of some sort and its your thing..
by all means spend all the money you want.

--
Cyrus

ok thanks, yeah its not for vanity at all, and I'm not sure if my lights
will blink or not. thanks for all the info

thanks for all the info, I think I'm gonna skip the cap, I ended up buying a
pioneer premier amp brand new for 99 dollars. says it soes 250 X1 @ 4 ohms
(I assume thats at 14.4 volts) so it should be right where I need it most of
the time (200 watts RMS) thanks again!

-Nick

On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 04:44:24 GMT, (No-one) wrote:

The amp will see a 2ohm load.

I hear that a lot, and it's simply not correct. It's pretty easy to
understand what's happening inside the amp when you bridge it - you're
combining two channels to make one, which doubles the rail voltage.

Use this simple example - take a two-channel amp with a 10V rail
voltage on each channel, driving one 4-ohm speaker per channel. Since
power is voltage squared divided by impedance, you get (10 * 10)/4 =
25 Watts per channel, or 50 Watts total.

Now, when you bridge it to mono, you only have one channel, but the
rail voltage is doubled to 20V. Now, the power delivered into the
single 4-ohm load is (20 * 20)/4 = 100 Watts total.

That's why you can approximately double the power delivered by the
amplifier when you bridge it to mono (assuming that the amplifier can
handle the additional current from the higher voltage). The extra
power has nothing to do with the amp "seeing" a lower impedance - the
extra power comes from the higher rail voltage, nothing else.


--
Scott Gardner

"A billion hours ago, human life appeared on earth. A billion minutes ago, Christianity emerged. A billion Coca Colas ago was yesterday morning. " (from a Coca-Cola report)

I have an alpine MRP-M350, and it's a KILLER amp. I love it. It does have
the gain settings that require a small screwdriver, but come on bro....
those are like $1. If that's enough to draw you away from an amplifier,
than you really dont care about your system anyhow. But the pioneer premier
amp may be a good one too.. not real sure. Anyway, good luck with your amp.

--
- AUSTIN BECKER
"Dr Nick" wrote in message
news:Upkof.8196$9G.4840@dukeread10...
thanks for all the info, I think I'm gonna skip the cap, I ended up buying
a
pioneer premier amp brand new for 99 dollars. says it soes 250 X1 @ 4 ohms
(I assume thats at 14.4 volts) so it should be right where I need it most
of
the time (200 watts RMS) thanks again!

-Nick

"Austin Becker" wrote in message
news:TO_pf.641463$_o.180929@attbi_s71...
I have an alpine MRP-M350, and it's a KILLER amp. I love it. It does have
the gain settings that require a small screwdriver, but come on bro....
those are like $1. If that's enough to draw you away from an amplifier,
than you really dont care about your system anyhow. But the pioneer
premier
amp may be a good one too.. not real sure. Anyway, good luck with your
amp.


I'm confuised by what you mean that "those are like a dollar" haha. do you
mean theres a knob that can fit on to those? from what I've read the pioneer
premier amps are pretty good (also puts out more power than the alpine)
biggest factor was I got this amp for 99 bucks plus shipping, got it in
yesterday and it was still sealed in the factory box, installing it
tomarrow, I'll let ya know how it goes, thanks for all your help
-Nick

The Jewelers screwdriver (the ones that fit in those small holes) are like a
dollar at auto zone. I like them better because my amp is in my trunk.
sometimes I have to fill my trunk (I'm military and have to travel
occasionally) and if I shove something in my trunk and it jacks my gain up,
I'd be ****ed. This way I don't worry about it... but when I travel, the
sub gets disconnected. I don't like trying to make a speaker sound good in
a trunk full of crap, and sometimes I have to leave it at home for space. I
am going to be getting a 12" DVC pretty soon cuz I got a 10" SVC right now.
IT sounds SOOOO clean, but I need more...

--
- AUSTIN BECKER
"Dr Nick" wrote in message
news:se3qf.10723$9G.3066@dukeread10...

"Austin Becker" wrote in message
news:TO_pf.641463$_o.180929@attbi_s71...
I have an alpine MRP-M350, and it's a KILLER amp. I love it. It does
have
the gain settings that require a small screwdriver, but come on bro....
those are like $1. If that's enough to draw you away from an amplifier,
than you really dont care about your system anyhow. But the pioneer
premier
amp may be a good one too.. not real sure. Anyway, good luck with your
amp.


I'm confuised by what you mean that "those are like a dollar" haha. do you
mean theres a knob that can fit on to those? from what I've read the
pioneer
premier amps are pretty good (also puts out more power than the alpine)
biggest factor was I got this amp for 99 bucks plus shipping, got it in
yesterday and it was still sealed in the factory box, installing it
tomarrow, I'll let ya know how it goes, thanks for all your help
-Nick

"Austin Becker" wrote in message
news:5m3qf.661779$xm3.482716@attbi_s21...
The Jewelers screwdriver (the ones that fit in those small holes) are like
a
dollar at auto zone. I like them better because my amp is in my trunk.
sometimes I have to fill my trunk (I'm military and have to travel
occasionally) and if I shove something in my trunk and it jacks my gain
up,
I'd be ****ed. This way I don't worry about it... but when I travel, the
sub gets disconnected. I don't like trying to make a speaker sound good
in
a trunk full of crap, and sometimes I have to leave it at home for space.
I
am going to be getting a 12" DVC pretty soon cuz I got a 10" SVC right
now.
IT sounds SOOOO clean, but I need more...

--

ok I get what ya mean about the jewerlers screw driver, on my rockford I
couldn't adjust the gain with anything (I tried a jewlers screw driver,
among other things) it was a total pain in the ass. any idea what your going
to get for a 12" sub? why DVC? what are the main advantages of DVC (besides
different ohm configurations it offers) Also I found out this amp has an
external knob that mounts in the front, any idea if this is for volume or
for gain? just curious, (pioneer premier amp) thanks!

-Nick

In my humble opinion, there's no major sound advantage to having a DVC to a
SVC. A dual 2 ohm wired at 4 Ohm will draw the same amount of power from
your amp as a SVC 4 ohm. Cone surface area and excursion (how far out the
cones comes out from the sub at it's maximum potential) make the differences
in sound. Also the enclosure you put them in as well. I've been looking at
a couple of different 12"s. The main two I've been scoping out are the
ALPINE SWR-1242D 12" TYPE R, the ALPINE SWS-1242D 12" TYPE S, and the
PIONEER SUB TS-W306DVC 12". I have an amp that puts out 350w rms at 2 ohm
and the alpine type R is a 500w rms, the alpine type S is a 300w rms, and
the pioneer is a 400 (360w rms). So those are the ones I've been checking
out cuz they are well in my price range. I hear more people say go with the
Type R, but I really don't know which I want. I am more leaning towards the
Pioneer because it is inexpensive, the rms rating is just over my amps max,
and I know pioneer makes reputable products. As for your amp, most amps do
not have volume control on them. gain is not volume control, and is more
likely to have a knob for it. check this site out.... www.bcae1.com it
is very very educational about all of the info you'd want to know.

--
- AUSTIN BECKER
"Nick Vital" wrote in message
news:dteqf.41295$ih5.4615@dukeread11...

"Austin Becker" wrote in message
news:5m3qf.661779$xm3.482716@attbi_s21...
The Jewelers screwdriver (the ones that fit in those small holes) are
like
a
dollar at auto zone. I like them better because my amp is in my trunk.
sometimes I have to fill my trunk (I'm military and have to travel
occasionally) and if I shove something in my trunk and it jacks my gain
up,
I'd be ****ed. This way I don't worry about it... but when I travel,
the
sub gets disconnected. I don't like trying to make a speaker sound good
in
a trunk full of crap, and sometimes I have to leave it at home for
space.
I
am going to be getting a 12" DVC pretty soon cuz I got a 10" SVC right
now.
IT sounds SOOOO clean, but I need more...

--

ok I get what ya mean about the jewerlers screw driver, on my rockford I
couldn't adjust the gain with anything (I tried a jewlers screw driver,
among other things) it was a total pain in the ass. any idea what your
going
to get for a 12" sub? why DVC? what are the main advantages of DVC
(besides
different ohm configurations it offers) Also I found out this amp has an
external knob that mounts in the front, any idea if this is for volume or
for gain? just curious, (pioneer premier amp) thanks!

-Nick

"Austin Becker" wrote in message
news:k0hqf.424085$084.49225@attbi_s22...
In my humble opinion, there's no major sound advantage to having a DVC to
a
SVC. A dual 2 ohm wired at 4 Ohm will draw the same amount of power from
your amp as a SVC 4 ohm. Cone surface area and excursion (how far out the
cones comes out from the sub at it's maximum potential) make the
differences
in sound. Also the enclosure you put them in as well. I've been looking
at
a couple of different 12"s. The main two I've been scoping out are the
ALPINE SWR-1242D 12" TYPE R, the ALPINE SWS-1242D 12" TYPE S, and the
PIONEER SUB TS-W306DVC 12". I have an amp that puts out 350w rms at 2 ohm
and the alpine type R is a 500w rms, the alpine type S is a 300w rms, and
the pioneer is a 400 (360w rms). So those are the ones I've been checking
out cuz they are well in my price range. I hear more people say go with
the
Type R, but I really don't know which I want. I am more leaning towards
the
Pioneer because it is inexpensive, the rms rating is just over my amps
max,
and I know pioneer makes reputable products. As for your amp, most amps
do
not have volume control on them. gain is not volume control, and is more
likely to have a knob for it. check this site out.... www.bcae1.com it
is very very educational about all of the info you'd want to know.


I'd say what used to be a major advantage of a DVC was that you could run a
non-bridgeable two channel amplifier to your sub. Of course this assumes
your amp is 2 ohm stable. Another "advantage" though it's not much of one
is that you can run stereo signals to the VC's.

"Austin Becker" wrote in message
news:k0hqf.424085$084.49225@attbi_s22...
In my humble opinion, there's no major sound advantage to having a DVC to
a
SVC. A dual 2 ohm wired at 4 Ohm will draw the same amount of power from
your amp as a SVC 4 ohm. Cone surface area and excursion (how far out the
cones comes out from the sub at it's maximum potential) make the
differences
in sound. Also the enclosure you put them in as well. I've been looking
at
a couple of different 12"s. The main two I've been scoping out are the
ALPINE SWR-1242D 12" TYPE R, the ALPINE SWS-1242D 12" TYPE S, and the
PIONEER SUB TS-W306DVC 12". I have an amp that puts out 350w rms at 2 ohm
and the alpine type R is a 500w rms, the alpine type S is a 300w rms, and
the pioneer is a 400 (360w rms). So those are the ones I've been checking
out cuz they are well in my price range. I hear more people say go with
the
Type R, but I really don't know which I want. I am more leaning towards
the
Pioneer because it is inexpensive, the rms rating is just over my amps
max,
and I know pioneer makes reputable products. As for your amp, most amps
do
not have volume control on them. gain is not volume control, and is more
likely to have a knob for it. check this site out.... www.bcae1.com it
is very very educational about all of the info you'd want to know.

thanks for the link, just got my car back and it sounds pretty good, I think
they set the crossover too low so I'm gonna play with that. how do I know
where to set the gain? should I just make a test tone cd (I have cool edit
pro which lets me create tones at whatever frequency I'd like, so I can make
my own test tone CD) is there a perticular frequency I shoudl use to set the
gain? Also, my friend has 2 of the alpine Type R's (10's though, not 12's
like your looking at) but they are pretty good in my opion. I might
eventually switch out the rockford I have now for one of those.

-Nick

To set gains:
http://www.installer.com/tech/gains.html

Set them with your normal everyday listening music as that's what you'll
actually be listening to the most. You only need to set things with
test tones if you're a competitor trying to find the max SPL possible
and at what frequency. A tip would be to set it so it sounds good to
YOU. Not what some guy on a forum says, or your friend's cousin's
brother that thinks he knows something. You're the one that has to
listen to it so make it sound good to you and don't care what other
people think. Pretty much everyone here will give you good advice and
it'll work very well and your equipment will be safest and happiest if
followed. If you want to crank it up more to suit your tastes, go for
it, but realize you may be shortening the lifespam of your equipment....
and hearing.

Brandonb



Dr Nick wrote:

thanks for the link, just got my car back and it sounds pretty good, I think
they set the crossover too low so I'm gonna play with that. how do I know
where to set the gain? should I just make a test tone cd (I have cool edit
pro which lets me create tones at whatever frequency I'd like, so I can make
my own test tone CD) is there a perticular frequency I shoudl use to set the
gain? Also, my friend has 2 of the alpine Type R's (10's though, not 12's
like your looking at) but they are pretty good in my opion. I might
eventually switch out the rockford I have now for one of those.

-Nick

"Brandonb" wrote in message
...
To set gains:
http://www.installer.com/tech/gains.html

Set them with your normal everyday listening music as that's what you'll
actually be listening to the most. You only need to set things with test
tones if you're a competitor trying to find the max SPL possible and at
what frequency. A tip would be to set it so it sounds good to YOU. Not
what some guy on a forum says, or your friend's cousin's brother that
thinks he knows something. You're the one that has to listen to it so make
it sound good to you and don't care what other people think. Pretty much
everyone here will give you good advice and it'll work very well and your
equipment will be safest and happiest if followed. If you want to crank it
up more to suit your tastes, go for it, but realize you may be shortening
the lifespam of your equipment.... and hearing.

Brandonb


thanks for the help, was just wondering mainly what people do to set these
things, gonna fine tune it tomarrow. thanks again

turn your favorite type of music on your head unit... turn the gain on your
amp ALL THE WAY DOWN... turn your head units volume up to about 60% or until
you hear distortion.. then turn it back down just a little bit till the
distortion is gone (this should be pretty loud anyway). With your head unit
at this volume, begin to turn the gain up on your amp till your sub is at
the level you want it, but not distorting. This way, if you ever turn your
music up that loud, it should not clip your amp, and you probably should
drive around daily listening to music that loud unless you want your hearing
shot. this way your system will sound good. That's just my opinion.

--
- AUSTIN BECKER
"Dr Nick" wrote in message
news:ihpqf.10783$9G.10485@dukeread10...

"Brandonb" wrote in message
...
To set gains:
http://www.installer.com/tech/gains.html

Set them with your normal everyday listening music as that's what you'll
actually be listening to the most. You only need to set things with test
tones if you're a competitor trying to find the max SPL possible and at
what frequency. A tip would be to set it so it sounds good to YOU. Not
what some guy on a forum says, or your friend's cousin's brother that
thinks he knows something. You're the one that has to listen to it so
make
it sound good to you and don't care what other people think. Pretty much
everyone here will give you good advice and it'll work very well and
your
equipment will be safest and happiest if followed. If you want to crank
it
up more to suit your tastes, go for it, but realize you may be
shortening
the lifespam of your equipment.... and hearing.

Brandonb


thanks for the help, was just wondering mainly what people do to set these
things, gonna fine tune it tomarrow. thanks again

"Austin Becker" wrote in message
news:josqf.636294$x96.552750@attbi_s72...
turn your favorite type of music on your head unit... turn the gain on
your
amp ALL THE WAY DOWN... turn your head units volume up to about 60% or
until
you hear distortion.. then turn it back down just a little bit till the
distortion is gone (this should be pretty loud anyway). With your head
unit
at this volume, begin to turn the gain up on your amp till your sub is at
the level you want it, but not distorting. This way, if you ever turn
your
music up that loud, it should not clip your amp, and you probably should
drive around daily listening to music that loud unless you want your
hearing
shot. this way your system will sound good. That's just my opinion.

thats a pretty good method in my opinion. I"ll give that a shot, thanks

-Nick