I have a BOSE Acoustimass 7 (3 saterlite speakers and bass speaker) I
brought this for surround sound. I have two BOSE VS100 small sized
speakers at the back of the room, near the ceiling.

I read in a article that the frequency range is:
Base module 46Hz to 202Hz at +-2.3dB
Satellites 280Hz to 13.3k Hz at +-10.5 dB
Can someone who has tested these speaker confirm that this is the
frequency range.
There seems to be gaps at
20Hz to 46 Hz
202Hz to 280Hz and
13.3k Hz to 20K Hz.

I recently brought a sub woofer to try and full in the gap at the low
frequency range. The sub woofer is 28Hz to 200Hz.
I can't see anyway of disableing the BOSE bass speaker so that the Sub
Woofer is used.
I have a Surround 5.1 sound decoder in my DVD player and connected the
player to the ampilifer using 6 leads (one for each speaker). In doing
this I was hoping that the subwoofer would get only the low frewuency
sounds. I have since found that the cut off frequency for the sub
woofer filter built into the DVD player is 120K Hz. This leaves a gap
from 120K Hz to 202K Hz.
Another reason for connecting the amplifer with 6 leads was to be able
to play super audio cd's (SA-CD).

Any advice would be most welcome.

Regards Brian

"Brian" wrote in message
...
I have a BOSE Acoustimass 7 (3 saterlite speakers and bass speaker) I
brought this for surround sound. I have two BOSE VS100 small sized
speakers at the back of the room, near the ceiling.

I read in a article that the frequency range is:
Base module 46Hz to 202Hz at +-2.3dB
Satellites 280Hz to 13.3k Hz at +-10.5 dB
Can someone who has tested these speaker confirm that this is the
frequency range.
There seems to be gaps at
20Hz to 46 Hz
202Hz to 280Hz and
13.3k Hz to 20K Hz.

**Correct.


I recently brought a sub woofer to try and full in the gap at the low
frequency range. The sub woofer is 28Hz to 200Hz.
I can't see anyway of disableing the BOSE bass speaker so that the Sub
Woofer is used.

**Correct. There isn't.

I have a Surround 5.1 sound decoder in my DVD player and connected the
player to the ampilifer using 6 leads (one for each speaker). In doing
this I was hoping that the subwoofer would get only the low frewuency
sounds. I have since found that the cut off frequency for the sub
woofer filter built into the DVD player is 120K Hz. This leaves a gap
from 120K Hz to 202K Hz.
Another reason for connecting the amplifer with 6 leads was to be able
to play super audio cd's (SA-CD).

Any advice would be most welcome.

**Sell the Bose and buy some proper equipment. You'll need to spend around
20% of the RRP of the Bose to get an equivalent sound quality.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

"Trevor Wilson" wrote:


"Brian" wrote in message
.. .
I have a BOSE Acoustimass 7 (3 saterlite speakers and bass speaker) I
brought this for surround sound. I have two BOSE VS100 small sized
speakers at the back of the room, near the ceiling.

I read in a article that the frequency range is:
Base module 46Hz to 202Hz at +-2.3dB
Satellites 280Hz to 13.3k Hz at +-10.5 dB
Can someone who has tested these speaker confirm that this is the
frequency range.
There seems to be gaps at
20Hz to 46 Hz
202Hz to 280Hz and
13.3k Hz to 20K Hz.

**Correct.


I recently brought a sub woofer to try and full in the gap at the low
frequency range. The sub woofer is 28Hz to 200Hz.
I can't see anyway of disableing the BOSE bass speaker so that the Sub
Woofer is used.

**Correct. There isn't.

I have a Surround 5.1 sound decoder in my DVD player and connected the
player to the ampilifer using 6 leads (one for each speaker). In doing
this I was hoping that the subwoofer would get only the low frewuency
sounds. I have since found that the cut off frequency for the sub
woofer filter built into the DVD player is 120K Hz. This leaves a gap
from 120K Hz to 202K Hz.
Another reason for connecting the amplifer with 6 leads was to be able
to play super audio cd's (SA-CD).

Any advice would be most welcome.

**Sell the Bose and buy some proper equipment. You'll need to spend around
20% of the RRP of the Bose to get an equivalent sound quality.

Thanks Trevor and others for your reply's.
Could someone suggest a suitable system to replace the BOSE speakers.
I have a small sized room so a sub woofer with satellite speakers
(surround sound 5.1 setup) would be more suitable at around 100 watts.
The only speakers I have looked at so far are the Sony brand.

Regards Brian

Brian wrote:

Thanks Trevor and others for your reply's.
Could someone suggest a suitable system to replace the BOSE speakers.
I have a small sized room so a sub woofer with satellite speakers
(surround sound 5.1 setup) would be more suitable at around 100 watts.
The only speakers I have looked at so far are the Sony brand.

Sony's are not going to be the best either, though preferable over the
Bose. Just do a little surfing and research. I have a very nice Polk
system. There are many others.

Joe Sensor wrote:

Sony's are not going to be the best either, though preferable over the
Bose. Just do a little surfing and research. I have a very nice Polk
system. There are many others.

In the bargain basement range I would look at PSB, Energy, some of the
better Paradigm boxes, and NHT.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

"Scott Dorsey" wrote in message
...
Joe Sensor wrote:

Sony's are not going to be the best either, though preferable over the
Bose. Just do a little surfing and research. I have a very nice Polk
system. There are many others.

In the bargain basement range I would look at PSB, Energy, some of the
better Paradigm boxes, and NHT.
--scott

Any chance you could get your snout any higher into the stratosphere?

"Scott Dorsey" wrote in message
...
Joe Sensor wrote:

Sony's are not going to be the best either, though preferable over the
Bose. Just do a little surfing and research. I have a very nice Polk
system. There are many others.

In the bargain basement range I would look at PSB, Energy, some of the
better Paradigm boxes, and NHT.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

On my initial reading of this post, I understood the poster to be
disparaging the speakers mentioned by referring to them as
"bargain-basement" and concluded that it was just another in the long line
of snide unhelpful comments elicited by the original poster's request for
help regarding his Bose speakers. I see that I was very likely wrong in my
original impression and that Mr. Dorsey was indeed being helpful with his
suggestion - "bargain basement" in this case meaning "good value". I
therefore apologize to Mr Dorsey and retract my earlier comments directed to
him.

"Brian" wrote in message
...
"Trevor Wilson" wrote:


"Brian" wrote in message
. ..
I have a BOSE Acoustimass 7 (3 saterlite speakers and bass speaker) I
brought this for surround sound. I have two BOSE VS100 small sized
speakers at the back of the room, near the ceiling.

I read in a article that the frequency range is:
Base module 46Hz to 202Hz at +-2.3dB
Satellites 280Hz to 13.3k Hz at +-10.5 dB
Can someone who has tested these speaker confirm that this is the
frequency range.
There seems to be gaps at
20Hz to 46 Hz
202Hz to 280Hz and
13.3k Hz to 20K Hz.

**Correct.


I recently brought a sub woofer to try and full in the gap at the low
frequency range. The sub woofer is 28Hz to 200Hz.
I can't see anyway of disableing the BOSE bass speaker so that the Sub
Woofer is used.

**Correct. There isn't.

I have a Surround 5.1 sound decoder in my DVD player and connected the
player to the ampilifer using 6 leads (one for each speaker). In doing
this I was hoping that the subwoofer would get only the low frewuency
sounds. I have since found that the cut off frequency for the sub
woofer filter built into the DVD player is 120K Hz. This leaves a gap
from 120K Hz to 202K Hz.
Another reason for connecting the amplifer with 6 leads was to be able
to play super audio cd's (SA-CD).

Any advice would be most welcome.

**Sell the Bose and buy some proper equipment. You'll need to spend around
20% of the RRP of the Bose to get an equivalent sound quality.

Thanks Trevor and others for your reply's.
Could someone suggest a suitable system to replace the BOSE speakers.
I have a small sized room so a sub woofer with satellite speakers
(surround sound 5.1 setup) would be more suitable at around 100 watts.
The only speakers I have looked at so far are the Sony brand.

**Since you're a Kiwi, I suggest you look towards some Kiwi manufactured
speakers. Some Aussie speakers are also likely to be good value for money
too. In the final analysis, however, you should trust your own ears. Some
Aussie brands worth considering:

Krix
VAF
Orpheus (My favourites)
Sonique
Legend

Not all of these are likely to be available, however.

Some Pommy speakers worth considering:

B&W
KEF
JM Labs
ProAc
Spendor
Epos
Monitor Audio


Some Yank/Canadian speakers worth considering:

Paradigm
Definitive Technology
Energy
NHT
Theil
Infinity


Some Euro speakers worth considering:

Jamo
Canton
Dynaudio
MB Quart
Triangle
Sonus Faber (breathtakingly beautiful to look at)


Almost all the above companies manufacture nothing but quality products (you
will find some exceptions, though) throughout their ranges. Where possible,
however, you are likely to be saving money by buying Kiwi/Aussie products.

--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

Trevor Wilson wrote:

Some Pommy speakers worth considering:

B&W
KEF
JM Labs
ProAc
Spendor
Epos
Monitor Audio

You missed out Tannoy, or does Scottish not count as Pommy?
Or are they not worth considering?

--
Eiron.

"Eiron" wrote in message
...
Trevor Wilson wrote:

Some Pommy speakers worth considering:

B&W
KEF
JM Labs
ProAc
Spendor
Epos
Monitor Audio

You missed out Tannoy, or does Scottish not count as Pommy?
Or are they not worth considering?

**I missed out dozens of decent brands. You may care to note my words:
"...SOME Pommy brands worth considering..." I did not make that list all
inclusive.



--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

Tell me Trevor, why does Australia and New Zealand manufacture so
little stuff for export? You'd think they could build some really cool
stuff but I just don't see any of it. A recent Stereophile article
lauds a superexpensive piano, but AFAIK goes on to say none are in
North America now. And their guitars are atrocious.

wrote in message
oups.com...
Tell me Trevor, why does Australia and New Zealand manufacture so
little stuff for export?

**There's a bunch of reasons, but the big one is historical. Back in the
1960s, Australia was the wealthiest nation on Earth (per capita). Our
considerable natural resources were dug up, grown and exported. We were (as
we used to say) "Riding on the sheep's back". We missed an excellent
opportunity to develop our own manufacturing industry in the 1950s and
1960s, due to this attitude. Australia, for instance, manufactured more
automobiles than Japan, during the early 1950s. For many years our
manufacturing industries have been protected by massive tarifs and taxes,
thus causing Aussie manufacturers to become complacent and lazy. Although
that time has finished, we are unlikely ever to catch up. Nowadays, things
are different. Australia's 'movers and shakers' are not interested in the
future. They're either interested in the here and now, the next election, or
the next profit announcement. Few take the long term outlook required to
build up decent manufacturing. There are a few exceptions, however. The very
excellent Pontiac GTO is one.
http://www.pontiac.com/gto/index.jsp...&pagename=home is an all
Aussie auto. Although the manufacturer is a GM subsidiary, they are
profitable and build autos uinque to this country. They, for instance, the
only GM subsiary which designs, engineers and builds it's own RWD,
independent suspension, large autos (at least that is what I'm told).

Now we have a mineral boom again and the cycle may well continue again. The
Aussie Dollar is rising (against the US) which will kill our manufactured
exports.

You'd think they could build some really cool
stuff but I just don't see any of it.

**Australia does build some cool stuff, but you don't see a lot of it.
Building stuff in Australia is often more difficult and more expensive than
in the US.

A recent Stereophile article
lauds a superexpensive piano, but AFAIK goes on to say none are in
North America now. And their guitars are atrocious.

**I understand that some Aussie guitars are pretty good, but that is not my
field of expertise.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

Brian wrote:

Thanks Trevor and others for your reply's.
Could someone suggest a suitable system to replace the BOSE speakers.
I have a small sized room so a sub woofer with satellite speakers
(surround sound 5.1 setup) would be more suitable at around 100 watts.
The only speakers I have looked at so far are the Sony brand.

It all depends upon your budget. You can get something equal sounding
but with better bass from Energy(Take 5.2 system), or by spending $1000
or more, sound that is equal to or better than a movie theater.

Joseph Oberlander wrote:
It all depends upon your budget. You can get something equal sounding
but with better bass from Energy(Take 5.2 system), or by spending $1000
or more, sound that is equal to or better than a movie theater.

If I were to judge by the last movie theater I visited, I'd have to say
movie theater sound sucks rocks. The last place I went, which is a
popular theater in a nice part of town, they had a very unnatural bass
boost. By ear I would say it was maybe 10 dB at around 100 Hz, or
maybe a little lower. It sounded atrocious. I don't know why people
would want to emulate them. Maybe other theaters are better, but
overall I can't say I look to movie theaters as a shining example of
high fidelity.

- Logan

Logan Shaw wrote:

Joseph Oberlander wrote:

It all depends upon your budget. You can get something equal sounding
but with better bass from Energy(Take 5.2 system), or by spending $1000
or more, sound that is equal to or better than a movie theater.


If I were to judge by the last movie theater I visited, I'd have to say
movie theater sound sucks rocks. The last place I went, which is a
popular theater in a nice part of town, they had a very unnatural bass
boost. By ear I would say it was maybe 10 dB at around 100 Hz, or
maybe a little lower. It sounded atrocious. I don't know why people
would want to emulate them. Maybe other theaters are better, but
overall I can't say I look to movie theaters as a shining example of
high fidelity.

Well, you can recreate the impact. The quality of a good system
in the $2000 or so range is vastly superior in terms of quality
and accuracy, of course.

But Bose just isn't going to cut it if you want a real movie
or live performance experience.

Brian wrote:


Thanks Trevor and others for your reply's.
Could someone suggest a suitable system to replace the BOSE speakers.
I have a small sized room so a sub woofer with satellite speakers
(surround sound 5.1 setup) would be more suitable at around 100 watts.
The only speakers I have looked at so far are the Sony brand.

Regards Brian


http://www.cambridgesoundworks.com/s...ory=ht_package

BOSE speaker help needed please





Bose suck. Get some good speakers.

SNIPT

great description of the frequency response or lack thereof of a bose system

SNIPT

CHECK THIS OUT so you'll come up with the courage to sell or return the
plastic boxes.

http://home.earthlink.net/~busenitz/bs.html

"Brian" wrote in message
...
I have a BOSE Acoustimass 7 (3 saterlite speakers and bass speaker) I
brought this for surround sound. I have two BOSE VS100 small sized
speakers at the back of the room, near the ceiling.

I read in a article that the frequency range is:
Base module 46Hz to 202Hz at +-2.3dB
Satellites 280Hz to 13.3k Hz at +-10.5 dB
Can someone who has tested these speaker confirm that this is the
frequency range.
There seems to be gaps at
20Hz to 46 Hz
202Hz to 280Hz and
13.3k Hz to 20K Hz.

You seem quite a bit more intelligent than the typical Bose owner.
Ditch them. You deserve better.

Brian wrote:
I have a BOSE Acoustimass 7 (3 saterlite speakers and bass speaker) I
brought this for surround sound. I have two BOSE VS100 small sized
speakers at the back of the room, near the ceiling.

I read in a article that the frequency range is:
Base module 46Hz to 202Hz at +-2.3dB
Satellites 280Hz to 13.3k Hz at +-10.5 dB
Can someone who has tested these speaker confirm that this is the
frequency range.
There seems to be gaps at
20Hz to 46 Hz
202Hz to 280Hz and
13.3k Hz to 20K Hz.

Correct. It's no better than most computer speakers. Not
surprizing considering the 2 inch speakers.

I recently brought a sub woofer to try and full in the gap at the low
frequency range. The sub woofer is 28Hz to 200Hz.

It's a woofer. That's right - the woofers for the system are
put in a little box. A subwoofer won't do anything to fix this
as the fundamental problem is the cheap satellites. 2 inches is
a dreadful compromize. It's not a woofer, it's not a tweeter.

Unfortunately, your only recourse is to sell the system(they
seem to get a good price used, though), and get a proper
home stereo system. Or at least, a proper "home theatre in
a box" setup.

"Brian" wrote in message
...
I have a BOSE Acoustimass 7 (3 saterlite speakers and bass speaker) I
brought this for surround sound. I have two BOSE VS100 small sized
speakers at the back of the room, near the ceiling.

I read in a article that the frequency range is:
Base module 46Hz to 202Hz at +-2.3dB
Satellites 280Hz to 13.3k Hz at +-10.5 dB
Can someone who has tested these speaker confirm that this is the
frequency range.
There seems to be gaps at
20Hz to 46 Hz
202Hz to 280Hz and
13.3k Hz to 20K Hz.

I recently brought a sub woofer to try and full in the gap at the low
frequency range. The sub woofer is 28Hz to 200Hz.
I can't see anyway of disableing the BOSE bass speaker so that the Sub
Woofer is used.
I have a Surround 5.1 sound decoder in my DVD player and connected the
player to the ampilifer using 6 leads (one for each speaker). In doing
this I was hoping that the subwoofer would get only the low frewuency
sounds. I have since found that the cut off frequency for the sub
woofer filter built into the DVD player is 120K Hz. This leaves a gap
from 120K Hz to 202K Hz.
Another reason for connecting the amplifer with 6 leads was to be able
to play super audio cd's (SA-CD).

Any advice would be most welcome.

First of all, don't panic. While Bose may not represent the pinnacle of
audio technology, it's certainly not nearly as bad as you're being led to
believe. A test of the Bose Accoustimass 5 system some years back did not
display these gaps so I'd be surprised if your system which has one more
cube pair did. You might try leaving your entire Accoustimass system
connected (center, front left and right) and hooking up your sub to the sub
out from your amp. If you have crossover control for your sub, you could set
it to cut off frequencies above about 50 herz where the Accoustimass system
picks up. You may want to play around with placement of your sub and the
Bose woofer to see if you can achieve something that sounds good to you. If
that simply doesn't work, then there is an active market for your Bose
system on eBay although that may be problematic for you due to location.
Alternatively, set up the Bose system with an inexpensive receiver in
another room where you watch TV or listen to FM, then build a new surround
system around your sub.

Since you already have a sub, you have quite a few avenues open to you.
Because you have a small room, you may want another satellite system - I'm
pleased with my Hsu Ventriloquist but then I also have an Hsu sub that
matches it well. An advantage of the Ventriloquist is that it is gives you
6.1 instead of 5.1. The Hsu allows you, if you want, to connect the center
rear (sixth speaker) so as to get pseudo 6.1 sound out of 5.1 material. Good
luck.

Regards Brian

"Ian S" wrote:

"Brian" wrote in message
.. .
I have a BOSE Acoustimass 7 (3 saterlite speakers and bass speaker) I
brought this for surround sound. I have two BOSE VS100 small sized
speakers at the back of the room, near the ceiling.

I read in a article that the frequency range is:
Base module 46Hz to 202Hz at +-2.3dB
Satellites 280Hz to 13.3k Hz at +-10.5 dB
Can someone who has tested these speaker confirm that this is the
frequency range.
There seems to be gaps at
20Hz to 46 Hz
202Hz to 280Hz and
13.3k Hz to 20K Hz.

I recently brought a sub woofer to try and full in the gap at the low
frequency range. The sub woofer is 28Hz to 200Hz.
I can't see anyway of disableing the BOSE bass speaker so that the Sub
Woofer is used.
I have a Surround 5.1 sound decoder in my DVD player and connected the
player to the ampilifer using 6 leads (one for each speaker). In doing
this I was hoping that the subwoofer would get only the low frewuency
sounds. I have since found that the cut off frequency for the sub
woofer filter built into the DVD player is 120K Hz. This leaves a gap
from 120K Hz to 202K Hz.
Another reason for connecting the amplifer with 6 leads was to be able
to play super audio cd's (SA-CD).

Any advice would be most welcome.

First of all, don't panic. While Bose may not represent the pinnacle of
audio technology, it's certainly not nearly as bad as you're being led to
believe. A test of the Bose Accoustimass 5 system some years back did not
display these gaps so I'd be surprised if your system which has one more
cube pair did. You might try leaving your entire Accoustimass system
connected (center, front left and right) and hooking up your sub to the sub
out from your amp. If you have crossover control for your sub, you could set
it to cut off frequencies above about 50 herz where the Accoustimass system
picks up. You may want to play around with placement of your sub and the
Bose woofer to see if you can achieve something that sounds good to you. If
that simply doesn't work, then there is an active market for your Bose
system on eBay although that may be problematic for you due to location.
Alternatively, set up the Bose system with an inexpensive receiver in
another room where you watch TV or listen to FM, then build a new surround
system around your sub.

Since you already have a sub, you have quite a few avenues open to you.
Because you have a small room, you may want another satellite system - I'm
pleased with my Hsu Ventriloquist but then I also have an Hsu sub that
matches it well. An advantage of the Ventriloquist is that it is gives you
6.1 instead of 5.1. The Hsu allows you, if you want, to connect the center
rear (sixth speaker) so as to get pseudo 6.1 sound out of 5.1 material. Good
luck.

Regards Brian

Thanks Ian your advice.
Its good to have an alternate reply for the BOSE system when there are
many against BOSE speakers.
One problem I'll have is getting the sub woofer to work with the BOSE
speakers as my amplifier can either have low frequency sound going to
the sub woofer output or mix the low frequency with the other channels
and have the BOSE bass model filter off the bass.
The sub woofer has a built in filter which will allow me to connect
the higher frequency speakers to the sub woofer. I'm hoping to connect
my Kef C25 speakers to the sub woofer and let the sub woofer's filter
do it's job. I have an A,B speaker switch on the amplifier so I'll be
able to switch between BOSE and Kef speakers.

Regards Brian

"Brian" wrote in message
...
"Ian S" wrote:

"Brian" wrote in message
.. .
I have a BOSE Acoustimass 7 (3 saterlite speakers and bass speaker) I
brought this for surround sound. I have two BOSE VS100 small sized
speakers at the back of the room, near the ceiling.

I read in a article that the frequency range is:
Base module 46Hz to 202Hz at +-2.3dB
Satellites 280Hz to 13.3k Hz at +-10.5 dB
Can someone who has tested these speaker confirm that this is the
frequency range.
There seems to be gaps at
20Hz to 46 Hz
202Hz to 280Hz and
13.3k Hz to 20K Hz.

I recently brought a sub woofer to try and full in the gap at the low
frequency range. The sub woofer is 28Hz to 200Hz.
I can't see anyway of disableing the BOSE bass speaker so that the Sub
Woofer is used.
I have a Surround 5.1 sound decoder in my DVD player and connected the
player to the ampilifer using 6 leads (one for each speaker). In doing
this I was hoping that the subwoofer would get only the low frewuency
sounds. I have since found that the cut off frequency for the sub
woofer filter built into the DVD player is 120K Hz. This leaves a gap
from 120K Hz to 202K Hz.
Another reason for connecting the amplifer with 6 leads was to be able
to play super audio cd's (SA-CD).

Any advice would be most welcome.

First of all, don't panic. While Bose may not represent the pinnacle of
audio technology, it's certainly not nearly as bad as you're being led to
believe. A test of the Bose Accoustimass 5 system some years back did not
display these gaps so I'd be surprised if your system which has one more
cube pair did. You might try leaving your entire Accoustimass system
connected (center, front left and right) and hooking up your sub to the
sub
out from your amp. If you have crossover control for your sub, you could
set
it to cut off frequencies above about 50 herz where the Accoustimass
system
picks up. You may want to play around with placement of your sub and the
Bose woofer to see if you can achieve something that sounds good to you.
If
that simply doesn't work, then there is an active market for your Bose
system on eBay although that may be problematic for you due to location.
Alternatively, set up the Bose system with an inexpensive receiver in
another room where you watch TV or listen to FM, then build a new
surround
system around your sub.

Since you already have a sub, you have quite a few avenues open to you.
Because you have a small room, you may want another satellite system -
I'm
pleased with my Hsu Ventriloquist but then I also have an Hsu sub that
matches it well. An advantage of the Ventriloquist is that it is gives
you
6.1 instead of 5.1. The Hsu allows you, if you want, to connect the
center
rear (sixth speaker) so as to get pseudo 6.1 sound out of 5.1 material.
Good
luck.

Regards Brian

Thanks Ian your advice.
Its good to have an alternate reply for the BOSE system when there are
many against BOSE speakers.
One problem I'll have is getting the sub woofer to work with the BOSE
speakers as my amplifier can either have low frequency sound going to
the sub woofer output or mix the low frequency with the other channels
and have the BOSE bass model filter off the bass.

I would think you'd be best to have as much as possible of the low frequency
sound go directly to your sub woofer. From what you say about your DVD
player, that will be the frequencies below 120 Hz and your sub will be fine
with that. So frequencies above 120 Hz will be going to the other speakers:
front left and right, center and surrounds. The Accoustimass 7 system will
then simply be the front and center speakers. That means the Bose bass
module won't be getting anything below 120 Hz, but I don't think that really
matters.

The sub woofer has a built in filter which will allow me to connect
the higher frequency speakers to the sub woofer. I'm hoping to connect
my Kef C25 speakers to the sub woofer and let the sub woofer's filter
do it's job. I have an A,B speaker switch on the amplifier so I'll be
able to switch between BOSE and Kef speakers.

Regards Brian

I'm not sure I understand where the Kef speakers are coming in. If you are
creating a parallel system to the Bose where both setups use the same sub, I
can't really say how that would work. Whatever you do, my understanding is
that you should avoid splitting up the Bose system to run its individual
components separately. Keep it together as a package (front left, right and
center) or eliminate it entirely from your system.

Brian wrote:
I have a BOSE Acoustimass 7 (3 saterlite speakers and bass speaker) I
brought this for surround sound. I have two BOSE VS100 small sized
speakers at the back of the room, near the ceiling.

I read in a article that the frequency range is:
Base module 46Hz to 202Hz at +-2.3dB
Satellites 280Hz to 13.3k Hz at +-10.5 dB
Can someone who has tested these speaker confirm that this is the
frequency range.
There seems to be gaps at
20Hz to 46 Hz
202Hz to 280Hz and
13.3k Hz to 20K Hz.

How did you do this measurement? If in a room that allows
reflections, the gaps could be destructive interrerence from
objects (like walls) in the room. In that case,
equalization is your enemy because in trying to compensate
one point you can drive other points to absurd levels.

The only way to clear a room of these modal problems is to
make it anechoic and most people don't seem to like listen
to reproduction in that situation.

If you don't have an anechoic room for measurement, I
suggest using the out of doors, in a clearing, on a calm
day, with the speakers on their backs on the ground pointing
up and the mic suspened a couple of meters above. Use a
flat measurement mic. Behringer makes one that is very
inexpensive and has been found to be quite good for such things.


Bob
--

"Things should be described as simply as possible, but no
simpler."

A. Einstein

SNIPT
How did you do this measurement? If in a room that allows reflections,
the gaps could be destructive interrerence from objects (like walls) in

All due respect he is saying GAPS not lulls and it is bose we are
talking about here. Tests like those you speak of have been done by
professionals, since you missed it in the thread here is a link:

http://home.earthlink.net/~busenitz/bs.html

I don't want to put down anyone LIKES the bose sound. It's subjective
and if you want that atmospheric, loose, ambient, concert hall
reproduction type thing fine. Musical listening is about enjoyment and
if that floats your boat - excellent. BUT if we are talking about
frequency response accuracy,

PLEASE it's not the room OK

Bob Cain wrote:



Brian wrote:
I have a BOSE Acoustimass 7 (3 saterlite speakers and bass speaker) I
brought this for surround sound. I have two BOSE VS100 small sized
speakers at the back of the room, near the ceiling.

I read in a article that the frequency range is:
Base module 46Hz to 202Hz at +-2.3dB
Satellites 280Hz to 13.3k Hz at +-10.5 dB
Can someone who has tested these speaker confirm that this is the
frequency range.
There seems to be gaps at
20Hz to 46 Hz
202Hz to 280Hz and
13.3k Hz to 20K Hz.

How did you do this measurement? If in a room that allows
reflections, the gaps could be destructive interrerence from
objects (like walls) in the room. In that case,
equalization is your enemy because in trying to compensate
one point you can drive other points to absurd levels.

The only way to clear a room of these modal problems is to
make it anechoic and most people don't seem to like listen
to reproduction in that situation.

If you don't have an anechoic room for measurement, I
suggest using the out of doors, in a clearing, on a calm
day, with the speakers on their backs on the ground pointing
up and the mic suspened a couple of meters above. Use a
flat measurement mic. Behringer makes one that is very
inexpensive and has been found to be quite good for such things.


Bob

Hi Bob.
If you take another look at my post I stated that "I read in an
article...." about the frequency reponses
If you'd like to read the article you'll find it at
www.intellexual.net/bose.html

Regards Brian

Brian wrote:

Hi Bob.
If you take another look at my post I stated that "I read in an
article...." about the frequency reponses

Sorry. By the time I got to the end of it I'd lost track of
that.

If you'd like to read the article you'll find it at
www.intellexual.net/bose.html

I Don't have time right now to go read the article. Does it
say how the data it reports was taken?


Bob
--

"Things should be described as simply as possible, but no
simpler."

A. Einstein

Bob Cain wrote:



Brian wrote:

Hi Bob.
If you take another look at my post I stated that "I read in an
article...." about the frequency reponses

Sorry. By the time I got to the end of it I'd lost track of
that.

If you'd like to read the article you'll find it at
www.intellexual.net/bose.html

I Don't have time right now to go read the article. Does it
say how the data it reports was taken?


Bob

Just thought you might be interested in the graphs in the article.

The article says that the data came from the August 1999 issue of
Sound and Vision. Also other bencemark tests from a few independent
audiophiles and industry professions are always consistent.

Regards Brian

The article says that the data came from the August 1999 issue of
Sound and Vision. Also other bencemark tests from a few independent
audiophiles and industry professions are always consistent.

Regards Brian

Sound and Vision removed it from their site a couple of
years later. It seems as if Bose has a real problem with
actual testing of their equipment.

Rule #1 of buying anything electronic or audio related:
Don't buy anything you can't find specs for.

This also applies to food - would you buy food at a
grocery store that didn't have ingredients listed?
(other than meat and such, of course)

"Trust us - this can of soup is healthy" doesn't
quite cut it. Why should it for audio either?

Brian nospam@hotmail wrote:
I have a BOSE Acoustimass 7 (3 saterlite speakers and bass speaker) I
brought this for surround sound. I have two BOSE VS100 small sized
speakers at the back of the room, near the ceiling.

I'm sorry.

I read in a article that the frequency range is:
Base module 46Hz to 202Hz at +-2.3dB
Satellites 280Hz to 13.3k Hz at +-10.5 dB
Can someone who has tested these speaker confirm that this is the
frequency range.

Sure. Those are useless numbers... you'll notice that the satellite
and subwoofer are listed with "ranges" that don't even overlap. If
you actually saw a sweep test on this crap, your eyes would bug out.
But those seem reasonable enough numbers for anechoic testing.

Notice the +-10.5 dB tolerances on the satellite test. Isn't that
hilarious? That basically makes the range itself pretty much
meaingless. If you use wide enough tolerances, you can say ANYTHING
has a wide frequency response.

There seems to be gaps at
20Hz to 46 Hz
202Hz to 280Hz and
13.3k Hz to 20K Hz.

There are gaps all over the place. Again, with such wide tolerances
you can't even tell how many there are. The frequency response on these
things basically looks like the Appalachians with really no midrange
to speak of.

I recently brought a sub woofer to try and full in the gap at the low
frequency range. The sub woofer is 28Hz to 200Hz.

And what's the response across that range?

The basic problem with all of these things is that the satellites are
too small to have any real midrange response. Below 1 KC or so they
pretty much fall like a rock and then the subwoofer picks up well below
that. You'll notice there is no bass imaging whatsoever, and that bass
runs basically sound like one note being played over and over. That
is because the bass itself is restricted to a fairly narrow range if
you actually look at the response plot.

Again, ignore the "ranges" because they don't tell anywhere near all
of the story, especially with those wide tolerances.

I can't see anyway of disableing the BOSE bass speaker so that the Sub
Woofer is used.

If you used a real sub with the Acoustimass satellites, you'd have no
midrange at all and things would be even worse.

I have a Surround 5.1 sound decoder in my DVD player and connected the
player to the ampilifer using 6 leads (one for each speaker). In doing
this I was hoping that the subwoofer would get only the low frewuency
sounds. I have since found that the cut off frequency for the sub
woofer filter built into the DVD player is 120K Hz. This leaves a gap
from 120K Hz to 202K Hz.
Another reason for connecting the amplifer with 6 leads was to be able
to play super audio cd's (SA-CD).

Basically, these systems are totally worthless junk and they are designed
to look good and sound exciting in the store, not to actually be accurate
to to listen to for the long term. There is no way to make the Acoustimass
system sound anything even remotely close to accurate.

Replacing these with a cheap pair of mid-fi bookshelf speakers will be much
more of an improvement than going to SACD sources ever will.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

Ever been in an actual Bose store? I sat through their bull**** demo
and then asked if I could arrange a comparison of their system with a
legit system. Oh no. It took me about ten minutes to prove to the
salespeople themselves, that they had no idea of what the words they
were saying to me really meant. They went to talk to the manager, and
then I was promptly told that obviously I was there to "disrupt their
business" (no other customers were there) and would need to leave.

A couple of years later I ran into one of the employees there that
day. He had been fired shortly thereafter and told me that they openly
told their salespeople that "hardcore audio nerds" were trouble and
should be kicked out with vigor and that they were wasting their time
learning any technical knowledge of any product but Bose or any
electronics in general. "We don't sell sound", they were told, "we
sell convenience and simplicity. The nerds are just a bunch of people
with no money that just want to play with themselves, and we let them.
Stick to exactly what we teach and you'll do okay. "

with no money that just want to play with themselves, and we let them.

nice - meanwhile my interconnects cost more than the best bose system -
what a joke - but that's sales isn't it - these days watching the news i
feel that's what they've become too - just salespeople instead of reporters

"Ozzy 2005" wrote in message
...
with no money that just want to play with themselves, and we let them.

nice - meanwhile my interconnects cost more than the best bose system -

Hee hee. Talk about a gullible idiot chump!

what a joke - but that's sales isn't it - these days watching the news i
feel that's what they've become too - just salespeople instead of
reporters

Hee hee. Talk about a gullible idiot chump!

I got a lot of components and am using home brew pbj. Bought several
yards years back and gold plated plugs all at reasonable prices and
soldered them myself with silver solder. retail they are about $50+
each pair. I'm no gic when it comes to audio and value BUT I do submit
that anyone buys bose (not for the sound) but on brand name recognition
is. I have listened with the standard interconnects that come with tape
decks and or are made by radio shack and they do break up causing
distortion. SO if that is what you are using I suggest you go to
audiogon.com and pick up a pair of pbj for yourself and use them from
your cd player to your pre and then from your pre to your power amp -
you will hear a difference in the clarity especially during peaks. At
least this was my experience. You're just trolling my man.

Basically, these systems are totally worthless junk and they are designed
to look good and sound exciting in the store, not to actually be accurate
to to listen to for the long term. There is no way to make the Acoustimass
system sound anything even remotely close to accurate.

Actually, they are designed exactly like they are for one reason:

- They were designed to sound great in very noisy environments.
The same environments that you get in a shopping mall. There
is a huge amount of background noise that makes speakers sound
flat and dull in this situation.

So Bose made the speakers to sound good in that environment,
or to be more specific, artificially boost them to sound somewhat
normal instead of sucked out like everything else.

Of course in a quiet environment(home), they sound like the
crap they are.

On Mon, 21 Mar 2005 06:12:39 GMT, Joseph Oberlander
wrote:

Of course in a quiet environment(home), they sound like the
crap they are.


I heard a "small weddings" band use 801's which were "adequate" for
vocals only. Neither astonishingly good nor particularly bad, and
probably better than the Shure Vocal Masher that comparable groups were
using at the time.

Around the same time, I heard a band that used them as their mids in
clubs that were wider than long in leiu of their 12" horn loaded
cabinets they used in spaces that were longer than wide.

I thought their "Lifestyles" system they sold through Sharper Image
sounded MUCH better than anything else in the SIZE family, but nowhere
near as good as similarly-priced conventional speakers.

The last time I had the budget for such things, I thought their mid-line
sounded better than their top end, and that it was a "six-of-one"
situation. But there's no such thing as "deep bass" from anything in
that price/size range.

If you line all of us up end to end, we'll point in all directions, of
course. But my opinion is that in the price range of Bose you can
probably do better with a conventional system.

(Scott Dorsey) wrote:

Brian nospam@hotmail wrote:
I have a BOSE Acoustimass 7 (3 saterlite speakers and bass speaker) I
brought this for surround sound. I have two BOSE VS100 small sized
speakers at the back of the room, near the ceiling.

I'm sorry.

I read in a article that the frequency range is:
Base module 46Hz to 202Hz at +-2.3dB
Satellites 280Hz to 13.3k Hz at +-10.5 dB
Can someone who has tested these speaker confirm that this is the
frequency range.

Sure. Those are useless numbers... you'll notice that the satellite
and subwoofer are listed with "ranges" that don't even overlap. If
you actually saw a sweep test on this crap, your eyes would bug out.
But those seem reasonable enough numbers for anechoic testing.

Notice the +-10.5 dB tolerances on the satellite test. Isn't that
hilarious? That basically makes the range itself pretty much
meaingless. If you use wide enough tolerances, you can say ANYTHING
has a wide frequency response.

There seems to be gaps at
20Hz to 46 Hz
202Hz to 280Hz and
13.3k Hz to 20K Hz.

There are gaps all over the place. Again, with such wide tolerances
you can't even tell how many there are. The frequency response on these
things basically looks like the Appalachians with really no midrange
to speak of.

I recently brought a sub woofer to try and full in the gap at the low
frequency range. The sub woofer is 28Hz to 200Hz.

And what's the response across that range?

The basic problem with all of these things is that the satellites are
too small to have any real midrange response. Below 1 KC or so they
pretty much fall like a rock and then the subwoofer picks up well below
that. You'll notice there is no bass imaging whatsoever, and that bass
runs basically sound like one note being played over and over. That
is because the bass itself is restricted to a fairly narrow range if
you actually look at the response plot.

Again, ignore the "ranges" because they don't tell anywhere near all
of the story, especially with those wide tolerances.

I can't see anyway of disableing the BOSE bass speaker so that the Sub
Woofer is used.

If you used a real sub with the Acoustimass satellites, you'd have no
midrange at all and things would be even worse.

I have a Surround 5.1 sound decoder in my DVD player and connected the
player to the ampilifer using 6 leads (one for each speaker). In doing
this I was hoping that the subwoofer would get only the low frewuency
sounds. I have since found that the cut off frequency for the sub
woofer filter built into the DVD player is 120K Hz. This leaves a gap
from 120K Hz to 202K Hz.
Another reason for connecting the amplifer with 6 leads was to be able
to play super audio cd's (SA-CD).

Basically, these systems are totally worthless junk and they are designed
to look good and sound exciting in the store, not to actually be accurate
to to listen to for the long term. There is no way to make the Acoustimass
system sound anything even remotely close to accurate.

Replacing these with a cheap pair of mid-fi bookshelf speakers will be much
more of an improvement than going to SACD sources ever will.
--scott

Thanks for your comments Kludge
If you want to take a look at the graphs for the test results they can
be found at www.intellexual.net/bose.html

Regards Brian

Brian wrote:
I have a BOSE Acoustimass 7 (3 saterlite speakers and bass speaker) I
brought this for surround sound. I have two BOSE VS100 small sized
speakers at the back of the room, near the ceiling.

I read in a article that the frequency range is:
Base module 46Hz to 202Hz at +-2.3dB
Satellites 280Hz to 13.3k Hz at +-10.5 dB
Can someone who has tested these speaker confirm that this is the
frequency range.
There seems to be gaps at
20Hz to 46 Hz
202Hz to 280Hz and

These gaps are really rather small. To get accurate figures for these
or any other speakers, you'd have to test the speakers in your room, so
that the acoustics of your room would be taken into account.

Also, it's pretty likely that the frequency range of your speakers
doesn't precisely start and end at, for example, 202Hz and 280Hz. More
likely, the frequency range is a little lower below 202Hz and then
falls away somewhat at 280Hz.

It's really easy to get focussed on these sort of numbers and lose
track of whether the speakers are doing what you want. Somebody else's
measurements don't really tell you how the speakers will measure or
sound in your room. Furthermore, no speaker is perfect, and all
speakers will have some anomalies that prevent them from being perfect.

Are you in some way dissatisfied with your speakers?

If you're happy with the sound of your current speakers, then keep
them.

13.3k Hz to 20K Hz.

Assuming you can hear above 13.3kHz, there's little or no music there.

Can you name something that you're missing way up there? That's much
higher than anything you'd ordinarily hear. Almost all sound is much,
much lower.

I recently brought a sub woofer

Is this new sub powered by its own amplifier, or is it powered by your
receiver?

to try and full in the gap at the low
frequency range. The sub woofer is 28Hz to 200Hz.
I can't see anyway of disableing the BOSE bass speaker so that the
Sub
Woofer is used.

Can you tell us more about that new sub?

What does the new sub's manual say about connecting the new sub to the
receiver?

I have a Surround 5.1 sound decoder in my DVD player and connected
the
player to the ampilifer using 6 leads (one for each speaker). In
doing
this I was hoping that the subwoofer would get only the low frewuency
sounds. I have since found that the cut off frequency for the sub
woofer filter built into the DVD player is 120K Hz. This leaves a gap
from 120K Hz

....I think you meant to say "120Hz" here...

to 202K Hz.

....I think you meant to say "200Hz" here...

Again, this sort of gap really isn't a big deal, assuming it's really
there. The acoustics of your room could cause much bigger anomalies.
Due to the acoustics of your room, you might even have a peak between
120Hz and 202Hz.

The sort of ranges you're discussing won't be exactly starting and
stopping at the numbers you list. And within those sorts of ranges,
output will still vary. At best, these sort of numbers are only a rough
guide.

If you really want to get serious about frequency response, you could
start by getting a sound meter from Radio Shack and some test CDs that
will provide test tones at different frequencies. Then you could do
measurements in your room and start tweaking the sound there, not only
by tweaking your gear, but by tweaking acoustics, listening position,
etc. Even then, and even if you buy bigger, better, more expensive
speakers, the results will at best still be a compromise.

You haven't really said anything about feeling that you're missing
anything in the music or that you're dissatisfied in any way with what
you hear. Your only issues seem to be that you see a few numbers that
fall short of perfection. Unfortunately, all speakers fall short of
perfection. I'll add that it's way too easy to get stuck on speaker
measurements and get confused, which is why some speakers provide few
or no specs of the sort you're looking at.

If you listen to your speakers in your room with CDs and DVDs you know
and like, and the speakers sound OK then, do not add new speakers or
replace your speakers.

BTW, as you've undoubtedly discovered by now, there are some Bose
detractors in the newsgroups. There are some speakers that are bigger
and better than what you've got now, but if your speakers sound and
look good to you in your typical use, that's all that matters.

I've looked at your other posts in this thread, and I don't see you
saying anything negative about the sound of your speakers, so I assume
they sound OK to you. In that case, I wouldn't worry too much over
frequency response, which you can only measure accurately in your own
room anyway.

If you want to move up to bigger speakers, try looking and buying at
the smaller audio stores that have decent listening rooms that are like
your room at home. That should give you some ideas about what bigger
speakers would be like for you.

If you buy more speakers, get return privileges, in case the new
speakers don't sound good in your room.

If you want to sell the Bose speakers, you'll find many bidders on
eBay. An advantage of owning a really popular brand like Bose is that
there's always a strong resale market.

Another reason for connecting the amplifer with 6 leads was to be
able
to play super audio cd's (SA-CD).

Any advice would be most welcome.

Regards Brian

wrote:

These gaps are really rather small. To get accurate figures for these
or any other speakers, you'd have to test the speakers in your room, so
that the acoustics of your room would be taken into account.

WHAT?


13.3k Hz to 20K Hz.

Assuming you can hear above 13.3kHz, there's little or no music there.

Whoo boy.


Can you name something that you're missing way up there? That's much
higher than anything you'd ordinarily hear. Almost all sound is much,
much lower.

Harmonic content? Tons of it?


...I think you meant to say "120Hz" here...


to 202K Hz.


...I think you meant to say "200Hz" here...

Again, this sort of gap really isn't a big deal, assuming it's really
there. The acoustics of your room could cause much bigger anomalies.
Due to the acoustics of your room, you might even have a peak between
120Hz and 202Hz.

A gap between 120 and 202 is "isn't a big deal"? Um, ok then.



The sort of ranges you're discussing won't be exactly starting and
stopping at the numbers you list. And within those sorts of ranges,
output will still vary. At best, these sort of numbers are only a rough
guide.

If you really want to get serious about frequency response, you could
start by getting a sound meter from Radio Shack and some test CDs that
will provide test tones at different frequencies. Then you could do
measurements in your room and start tweaking the sound there, not only
by tweaking your gear, but by tweaking acoustics, listening position,
etc. Even then, and even if you buy bigger, better, more expensive
speakers, the results will at best still be a compromise.

You haven't really said anything about feeling that you're missing
anything in the music or that you're dissatisfied in any way with what
you hear. Your only issues seem to be that you see a few numbers that
fall short of perfection. Unfortunately, all speakers fall short of
perfection. I'll add that it's way too easy to get stuck on speaker
measurements and get confused, which is why some speakers provide few
or no specs of the sort you're looking at.

If you listen to your speakers in your room with CDs and DVDs you know
and like, and the speakers sound OK then, do not add new speakers or
replace your speakers.

BTW, as you've undoubtedly discovered by now, there are some Bose
detractors in the newsgroups. There are some speakers that are bigger
and better than what you've got now, but if your speakers sound and
look good to you in your typical use, that's all that matters.

I've looked at your other posts in this thread, and I don't see you
saying anything negative about the sound of your speakers, so I assume
they sound OK to you. In that case, I wouldn't worry too much over
frequency response, which you can only measure accurately in your own
room anyway.

If you want to move up to bigger speakers, try looking and buying at
the smaller audio stores that have decent listening rooms that are like
your room at home. That should give you some ideas about what bigger
speakers would be like for you.

If you buy more speakers, get return privileges, in case the new
speakers don't sound good in your room.

If you want to sell the Bose speakers, you'll find many bidders on
eBay. An advantage of owning a really popular brand like Bose is that
there's always a strong resale market.

Do you sell Bose speakers by any chance?

"Joe Sensor" wrote in message


A gap between 120 and 202 is "isn't a big deal"? Um, ok then.


like, almost an whole octave !!! ;-)

geoff