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#1
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Amp probs
I have a Audiobahn 4601T 4x75 amp. 2 channels run my front speakers, the
other 2 are bridged and run my sub... all was going well, listening to music, went to work..... After I finished work I went to drive home, and thee was a serious lack of bass... My sub stopped working; Went home checked my amp, its still powering on, front speakers are still running so the amp is still working, switched the rca cables around, front speakers worked with either set... so its not the RCA cable.... checked the two fuses in the amp, they both seem to be good.. I'm stuck, what happened? anyone have any ideas? how can it be working grand and then after work not? nothing popped/burnt out that I can see!!! Oh yeah also checked my sub by connecting it to a 1.5volt battery, the cone moved so I'm assuming the sub is still good?!?! Thing is when I turn on my music, nothing happens at the sub, no sound, no movement NOTHING!?!?! Any help at all appreciated!! |
#2
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On Sat, 18 Jun 2005 17:37:32 +0100, "Christopher O'Callaghan"
wrote: I have a Audiobahn 4601T 4x75 amp. 2 channels run my front speakers, the other 2 are bridged and run my sub... all was going well, listening to music, went to work..... After I finished work I went to drive home, and thee was a serious lack of bass... My sub stopped working; Went home checked my amp, its still powering on, front speakers are still running so the amp is still working, switched the rca cables around, front speakers worked with either set... so its not the RCA cable.... checked the two fuses in the amp, they both seem to be good.. I'm stuck, what happened? anyone have any ideas? how can it be working grand and then after work not? nothing popped/burnt out that I can see!!! Oh yeah also checked my sub by connecting it to a 1.5volt battery, the cone moved so I'm assuming the sub is still good?!?! Thing is when I turn on my music, nothing happens at the sub, no sound, no movement NOTHING!?!?! Any help at all appreciated!! I would double-check the fuses. In fact, go ahead and pull them out, look at them closely, and test them with an ohmmeter if you have one. The fact that you're getting nothing from the subs at all makes me suspect the amp fuse or the wiring between the amp and subs. Were there any splices in the speaker wire between the amp and the sub that could have come loose? If the fuse turns out to be good, you might temporarily run a different length of speaker wire to your sub. -- Scott Gardner "Any event, once it has occurred, can be made to appear inevitable by a competent historian". - Lee Simonson |
#3
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"Christopher O'Callaghan" wrote in message ... I have a Audiobahn 4601T 4x75 amp. 2 channels run my front speakers, the other 2 are bridged and run my sub... all was going well, listening to music, went to work..... After I finished work I went to drive home, and thee was a serious lack of bass... My sub stopped working; Went home checked my amp, its still powering on, front speakers are still running so the amp is still working, switched the rca cables around, front speakers worked with either set... so its not the RCA cable.... checked the two fuses in the amp, they both seem to be good.. I'm stuck, what happened? anyone have any ideas? how can it be working grand and then after work not? nothing popped/burnt out that I can see!!! Oh yeah also checked my sub by connecting it to a 1.5volt battery, the cone moved so I'm assuming the sub is still good?!?! Thing is when I turn on my music, nothing happens at the sub, no sound, no movement NOTHING!?!?! Any help at all appreciated!! Either your sub is bad or the channel that runs the sub is bad. try putting the sub on the front side of the amp. or try the sub on your home stereo. |
#4
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Hi thanks for the reply!! nah the wire from the sub to the amp is grand,
dunno whats up, ok I'll check the fuses properly... Yeah I was maybe thinking I might of fuct the amp, but I dunno how thats possible cause it just suddenly stopped working, its not as if I was using it when it happened... its really confusing, my amp has protection mode as well. so if the amp was running too high shouldn't of that kicked in??? thanks for the ideas anyways! "Scott Gardner" wrote in message ... On Sat, 18 Jun 2005 17:37:32 +0100, "Christopher O'Callaghan" wrote: I have a Audiobahn 4601T 4x75 amp. 2 channels run my front speakers, the other 2 are bridged and run my sub... all was going well, listening to music, went to work..... After I finished work I went to drive home, and thee was a serious lack of bass... My sub stopped working; Went home checked my amp, its still powering on, front speakers are still running so the amp is still working, switched the rca cables around, front speakers worked with either set... so its not the RCA cable.... checked the two fuses in the amp, they both seem to be good.. I'm stuck, what happened? anyone have any ideas? how can it be working grand and then after work not? nothing popped/burnt out that I can see!!! Oh yeah also checked my sub by connecting it to a 1.5volt battery, the cone moved so I'm assuming the sub is still good?!?! Thing is when I turn on my music, nothing happens at the sub, no sound, no movement NOTHING!?!?! Any help at all appreciated!! I would double-check the fuses. In fact, go ahead and pull them out, look at them closely, and test them with an ohmmeter if you have one. The fact that you're getting nothing from the subs at all makes me suspect the amp fuse or the wiring between the amp and subs. Were there any splices in the speaker wire between the amp and the sub that could have come loose? If the fuse turns out to be good, you might temporarily run a different length of speaker wire to your sub. -- Scott Gardner "Any event, once it has occurred, can be made to appear inevitable by a competent historian". - Lee Simonson |
#5
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get you 1 good 10' sub and hook it up. thenll youll know if its the amp
or sub...geezzzzz i guess it could be the sub hook up from the radio too. |
#6
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I took the sub out, and put my 6x9s onto it.. Seems to be one of my channels
is fuct. how's it happen though? My radio wasnt even playing! I would understand if it happened midplay, music being too loud or me adding a component which didn't agree with my system.. Any ideas on how to fix the problem? Would the amp still be covered under guarantee?? its only 3 months old! "bob wald" wrote in message ... get you 1 good 10' sub and hook it up. thenll youll know if its the amp or sub...geezzzzz i guess it could be the sub hook up from the radio too. |
#7
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i've noticed alot damage happens when turning on or off your
system....... when turning on your car its better to turn off your stereo if its high power.i got stickers all on my dash says danger high voltage dont touch stereo.lol |
#8
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#9
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.i got stickers all on my dash says danger high voltage dont touch
stereo.lol Sounds like a classy ride. |
#10
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That's a good point. If the problem turns out to be a component
inside the amp instead of just a blown fuse, it could have easily happened because of the "inrush curent" through cold circuits when you turned the amp on. (The same reason light bulbs usually blow when you first turn them on.) Amps are usually protected from voltage spikes and drops while you're starting your car, since the amp is turned on by the remote turn-on lead on the head unit, and there's usually a relay in your car's wiring that keeps things like the air conditioning and head unit turned off while the engine is being started. But with the light bulb, it's because the resistance of the tungsten is at its lowest point when cold. Things are different with an amp. Charge up the power supply capacitors and that's it. What's gonna go wrong there? Burn out a trace? |
#11
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My car has no ac position; So the radio doesn't need the key turned or even
in to turn on!!! I put the radio in and switched it on as I was sending a text before starting my car; Well, the main thing I wanna know is, is my amp beyond repair? "MZ" wrote in message ... .i got stickers all on my dash says danger high voltage dont touch stereo.lol Sounds like a classy ride. |
#12
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On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 09:53:49 -0400, "MZ"
wrote: That's a good point. If the problem turns out to be a component inside the amp instead of just a blown fuse, it could have easily happened because of the "inrush curent" through cold circuits when you turned the amp on. (The same reason light bulbs usually blow when you first turn them on.) Amps are usually protected from voltage spikes and drops while you're starting your car, since the amp is turned on by the remote turn-on lead on the head unit, and there's usually a relay in your car's wiring that keeps things like the air conditioning and head unit turned off while the engine is being started. But with the light bulb, it's because the resistance of the tungsten is at its lowest point when cold. Things are different with an amp. Charge up the power supply capacitors and that's it. What's gonna go wrong there? Burn out a trace? I guess it would depend on what the very first components are in the circuit path when power is applied. The capacitors you mention appear as dead shorts in the circuit until they've begun to charge, so that's another example of a spike in turn-on current. Along the same lines, what exactly is it that causes "turn-on 'thump' in amps"? Even if his amp has circuitry to prevent the "thump", that circuitry itself must have to deal with some kind of spike upon turn-on. I realize it doesn't happen often, although I've had other electronic devices fail upon initial powerup. The original poster was asking why his amp would fail at turn-on rather than under use, and I was just pointing out that initial application of power can be a risky time for electronic devices. For his sake, I'm hoping the problem is just a blown fuse in the bad channel. The last I heard from him, he had just looked at the fuse in place - he hadn't removed it to examine it more closely, test it with an ohmmeter, or to swap it with the other fuse in the amp or a new fuse. -- Scott Gardner "If you sleep twelve hours a day, then the deployment will only be three months long, not six!" (Navy JO saying) |
#13
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On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 15:02:56 +0100, "Christopher O'Callaghan"
wrote: My car has no ac position; So the radio doesn't need the key turned or even in to turn on!!! I put the radio in and switched it on as I was sending a text before starting my car; Well, the main thing I wanna know is, is my amp beyond repair? "MZ" wrote in message ... .i got stickers all on my dash says danger high voltage dont touch stereo.lol Sounds like a classy ride. If your stereo is wired so that the key doesn't have to be in the ignition to power the stereo, then you can get voltage spikes and drops to your amplifier if you start the car with the stereo and amplifier turned on. I'm not saying that's what caused the problem, but all else being equal, there's a reason that factory stereos are interlocked so that they momentarily turn off while the engine's being started. Did you ever pull the fuse from the bad channel and replace it or test it with a meter? I've had fuses blow that still looked "good" until I examined them very closely. At the very least, swap the two fuses and see if the problem moves to the other channel. -- Scott Gardner "A billion hours ago, human life appeared on earth. A billion minutes ago, Christianity emerged. A billion Coca Colas ago was yesterday morning. " (from a Coca-Cola report) |
#14
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For his sake, I'm hoping the problem is just a blown fuse in the bad channel. The last I heard from him, he had just looked at the fuse in place - he hadn't removed it to examine it more closely, test it with an ohmmeter, or to swap it with the other fuse in the amp or a new fuse. -- Scott Gardner "If you sleep twelve hours a day, then the deployment will only be three months long, not six!" (Navy JO saying) The original poster said only half the amp was not working. the side that was to the sub. the other half to the fronts was working ok that's why I didn't mention checking fuse, because it is unlikely since half the amp is working |
#15
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On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 14:40:40 GMT, "joe.ker"
wrote: For his sake, I'm hoping the problem is just a blown fuse in the bad channel. The last I heard from him, he had just looked at the fuse in place - he hadn't removed it to examine it more closely, test it with an ohmmeter, or to swap it with the other fuse in the amp or a new fuse. -- Scott Gardner "If you sleep twelve hours a day, then the deployment will only be three months long, not six!" (Navy JO saying) The original poster said only half the amp was not working. the side that was to the sub. the other half to the fronts was working ok that's why I didn't mention checking fuse, because it is unlikely since half the amp is working But he also mentioned that the amp had two fuses. Most likely, there's one for each channel. -- Scott Gardner "Any event, once it has occurred, can be made to appear inevitable by a competent historian". - Lee Simonson |
#16
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be4 repairing any amp wiegh can you buy a better amp alil more or will
it break again.i've been down the fix it road b4.lol once 1 thing breaks whats next? usually things get worse not better with amps breaking.i'd fix it and sell it.if you can get more than double the repair bill out of it. there is a chance it'll not break again for awhile thou.i would gamble on it myself....... |
#17
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"Scott Gardner" wrote in message ... On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 14:40:40 GMT, "joe.ker" wrote: For his sake, I'm hoping the problem is just a blown fuse in the bad channel. The last I heard from him, he had just looked at the fuse in place - he hadn't removed it to examine it more closely, test it with an ohmmeter, or to swap it with the other fuse in the amp or a new fuse. -- Scott Gardner "If you sleep twelve hours a day, then the deployment will only be three months long, not six!" (Navy JO saying) The original poster said only half the amp was not working. the side that was to the sub. the other half to the fronts was working ok that's why I didn't mention checking fuse, because it is unlikely since half the amp is working But he also mentioned that the amp had two fuses. Most likely, there's one for each channel. -- Scott Gardner "Any event, once it has occurred, can be made to appear inevitable by a competent historian". - Lee Simonson It's possible, but in my 26 years I have never seen an amp that uses a different fuse for each channel on the power side. They may have some, but all the one's I've seen, the fuses are paralleled for the power supply and not the audio. There are some amps that use smaller fuses on the audio outputs, old Rockford's and Orion come to mind. so maybe the next question is What brand model amp is it? |
#18
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meant wouldnt gamble on it myself.
forget the fuses...things powering up n off wears parts in car audio. thats what i'm talking about. you know on battery terminals you get crud from the electricity flowing thou it.well any connection with electricity can get that on it. even inside radios/amps.i forget what that build up electicity leaves is called. |
#19
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I guess it would depend on what the very first components are in the
circuit path when power is applied. The capacitors you mention appear as dead shorts in the circuit until they've begun to charge, so that's another example of a spike in turn-on current. Along the same lines, what exactly is it that causes "turn-on 'thump' in amps"? Even if his amp has circuitry to prevent the "thump", that circuitry itself must have to deal with some kind of spike upon turn-on. It's typically a disparity between the timing of source and amplifier turnon. "Thump" circuitry tends to be an input circuit thing. I realize it doesn't happen often, although I've had other electronic devices fail upon initial powerup. The original poster was asking why his amp would fail at turn-on rather than under use, and I was just pointing out that initial application of power can be a risky time for electronic devices. Yeah, turn-on time usually is. But it's important to dissociate between turn-on time (eg. light bulbs) and thermal cycles. If the last thermal cycle was the culprit, then of course it'll manifest itself at turn-on. Obviously you're not going to notice a difference at turn-off. But I've generally found that amplifiers will go kaput at the worst possible time - when you're playing a song you really like at full tilt. |
#20
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be4 repairing any amp wiegh can you buy a better amp alil more or will
it break again.i've been down the fix it road b4.lol once 1 thing breaks whats next? usually things get worse not better with amps breaking.i'd fix it and sell it.if you can get more than double the repair bill out of it. there is a chance it'll not break again for awhile thou.i would gamble on it myself....... Amps are different from cars and houses. A lot of times, fixing the amp will fix it for good. Unless it's a cheap crappy amp to begin with. I still have amps that I fixed years ago and have worked flawless since. Last year, I sold an MTX Blue Thunder amp that I had originally bought like 7 years prior. The "fix" was basically only resoldering a trace. A lot of times, broken amps are the result of a loose connection which may not be representative of the soldering/connections job internally. |
#21
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ohh 'm sorry i didnt know your amps dont age or have wear n tear...yours
never run out..... oh wait you said no amps ever wear out. ok i guess your amp dont use electricity either. electricity by itself can cause trouble. glad i learned this from the pros here . |
#22
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i just thunk this out. if i am wrong then why would any amps need to be
fixxed???? and dont say it was a manufactor defect. if that was true it'd never work to start with. |
#23
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On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 12:23:44 -0400, "MZ"
wrote: be4 repairing any amp wiegh can you buy a better amp alil more or will it break again.i've been down the fix it road b4.lol once 1 thing breaks whats next? usually things get worse not better with amps breaking.i'd fix it and sell it.if you can get more than double the repair bill out of it. there is a chance it'll not break again for awhile thou.i would gamble on it myself....... Amps are different from cars and houses. A lot of times, fixing the amp will fix it for good. Unless it's a cheap crappy amp to begin with. I still have amps that I fixed years ago and have worked flawless since. Last year, I sold an MTX Blue Thunder amp that I had originally bought like 7 years prior. The "fix" was basically only resoldering a trace. A lot of times, broken amps are the result of a loose connection which may not be representative of the soldering/connections job internally. I had an AudioContol EQX that was intermittent on one channel. There was a fractured solder joint on one of the RCA connectors. De-soldering it, cleaning it up, and re-soldering it fixed the problem for good. It was still working fine when I gave it away ten years later. Mark's right - amps and other electronic devices don't really "wear out" as much as they experience abrupt failures of individual components. It's not uncommon to fix/replace the bad part and have the device keep on truckin' for decades longer. -- Scott Gardner "Some mornings, it's just not worth chewing through the leather straps." (Emo Philips) |
#24
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I checked the fuses, switched them and with an multimeter; They're good...
Just seems to be that one channel; can it be that a soldering joint as gone within the amp? cause the amp is powering up and one side of the 2 channels is working?? maybe the power just isn't reaching the output for some reason? The amp is an Audiobahn 4601T I'll let you's decide if its a good amp or not.. I think it could also be the input terminal to the amp? Maybe within the amp, a wore loose again? I Dunno. I live in Ireland, bought the amp from the states so doubt my warranty will be good over here; Roughly how much would I be looking at for a repair?? "Scott Gardner" wrote in message ... On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 15:02:56 +0100, "Christopher O'Callaghan" wrote: My car has no ac position; So the radio doesn't need the key turned or even in to turn on!!! I put the radio in and switched it on as I was sending a text before starting my car; Well, the main thing I wanna know is, is my amp beyond repair? "MZ" wrote in message ... .i got stickers all on my dash says danger high voltage dont touch stereo.lol Sounds like a classy ride. If your stereo is wired so that the key doesn't have to be in the ignition to power the stereo, then you can get voltage spikes and drops to your amplifier if you start the car with the stereo and amplifier turned on. I'm not saying that's what caused the problem, but all else being equal, there's a reason that factory stereos are interlocked so that they momentarily turn off while the engine's being started. Did you ever pull the fuse from the bad channel and replace it or test it with a meter? I've had fuses blow that still looked "good" until I examined them very closely. At the very least, swap the two fuses and see if the problem moves to the other channel. -- Scott Gardner "A billion hours ago, human life appeared on earth. A billion minutes ago, Christianity emerged. A billion Coca Colas ago was yesterday morning. " (from a Coca-Cola report) |
#26
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#27
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On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 19:08:41 +0100, "Christopher O'Callaghan"
wrote: I checked the fuses, switched them and with an multimeter; They're good... Just seems to be that one channel; can it be that a soldering joint as gone within the amp? cause the amp is powering up and one side of the 2 channels is working?? maybe the power just isn't reaching the output for some reason? The amp is an Audiobahn 4601T I'll let you's decide if its a good amp or not.. I think it could also be the input terminal to the amp? Maybe within the amp, a wore loose again? I Dunno. I live in Ireland, bought the amp from the states so doubt my warranty will be good over here; Roughly how much would I be looking at for a repair?? Well, you've exhausted all of the easy/obvious stuff, so it's probably time to take it to a shop if you'd like to keep the amp. Expect them to charge you $50-75 to diagnose it, but they'll usually deduct that amount off of your bill if you have it fixed. I'm not familiar with that particular amp, other than having read the spec sheet and the owner's manual, but Audiobahn is a pretty well-respected brand. I'd at least have it checked out. If it's going to be less than $100 to have it fixed, I'd have it fixed if it were my amp. Of course, if you've been looking to upgrade to a different amp, this might be the perfect opportunity. -- Scott Gardner "The POP3 server service depends on the SMTP server service, which failed to start because of the following error: The operation completed successfully." (Windows NT Server v3.51) |
#28
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"bob wald" wrote in message ... ohh 'm sorry i didnt know your amps dont age or have wear n tear...yours never run out..... oh wait you said no amps ever wear out. ok i guess your amp dont use electricity either. electricity by itself can cause trouble. glad i learned this from the pros here . "Wear" can happen as electrolytic caps "dry out" etc. Modern manufacturing processes and component evolution dictates that wear is minimal on a component level. Devices subject to excessive vibration can develop cracked solder joints etc but this is an easy fix. Ususlly once it's fixed correctly then it's fixed. "Correctly" is if you pop a transistor on one channel replace all of it's complementary transistors. Same with switching FETs. Components rarely suffer wear these days as much as they suffer failure from abuse in car audio. Once the faulty components are replaced and the others that took the brunt of the blow from the failure then there is absolutely no reason for it to perform as new for the longevity of a new device. Chad |
#29
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ohh 'm sorry
Apology accepted. By the way, learn to quote the text you're replying to. Not everybody uses a threaded newsreader. I had to switch to another computer just to check to see if you were replying to me or someone else. i didnt know your amps dont age or have wear n tear...yours never run out..... oh wait you said no amps ever wear out. ok That's not what I said. I countered your ridiculous comment: "once 1 thing breaks whats next? usually things get worse not better with amps breaking." with a comment about how this isn't necessarily true. What is it exactly that makes you think that when an amp breaks it'll be prone to breaking? As I said, it's not like a car where it gathers rust on the underside so that once your ball joints go you can expect a control arm or fuel lines or whatever to go. There's really not much "wear" to be had on an amplifier, short of thermal cycles or drying out capacitors or what have you. And if you're at that point with your amplifier, then it's time to step out of the '80s and buy a new one. i guess your amp dont use electricity either. electricity by itself can cause trouble. Sure can. But then that's a problem with your car's electrical system, not the amplifier. |
#30
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i just thunk this out.
Glad to see you've now started to think before typing replies. Hopefully it becomes a trend. if i am wrong then why would any amps need to be fixxed???? Because they break. What do I win? and dont say it was a manufactor defect. if that was true it'd never work to start with. Ok, now how does this have anything to do with your assertion that once an amp breaks then it'll be more prone to breaking in the future? |
#31
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ok fixxed a amp once then 2weeks laters something else then something
else.i talk from experience.please you are embarrassing your selfs.....all electicial connetions when they make contact and sparks leave a lil build up. i had a switch n my ac last year.a switch that automatic wouldnt disengage because the place it switches too had so much build up it always made contact.and the ac ran all the time. even when i turned it off. it was like lead build up like 3/16s high. coulda been 1/8.....but this thing was like 9 yrs old.....maybe 12. but you use amps ALOT more that ac. |
#32
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I was under the impression that if things were wired correctly, then
there wouldn't be sparks thown... Maybe that's just the new-fangled technology that I'm used to, though. ~Mister.Lull |
#33
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"bob wald" wrote in message ... meant wouldnt gamble on it myself. forget the fuses...things powering up n off wears parts in car audio. thats what i'm talking about. you know on battery terminals you get crud from the electricity flowing thou it.well any connection with electricity can get that on it. even inside radios/amps.i forget what that build up electicity leaves is called. uh, mr expert, it's called corrosion. and just because something has electricity flowing thru it doesn't mean it will automatically corrode. |
#34
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"bob wald" wrote in message ... ok fixxed a amp once then 2weeks laters something else then something else. this could be the result of customer abuse, a poor quality product, or a poor repair job. i talk from experience.please you are embarrassing your selfs.....all electicial connetions when they make contact and sparks leave a lil build up. ok, but now you've changed your story. to quote your previous statement: " you know on battery terminals you get crud from the electricity flowing thou it.well any connection with electricity can get that on it. even inside radios/amps.i forget what that build up electicity leaves is called." see. two different statements. because you can't support the first statement, you changed to something else. i had a switch n my ac last year.a switch that automatic wouldnt disengage because the place it switches too had so much build up it always made contact.and the ac ran all the time. i think that would be called a contactor (relay). even when i turned it off. yes, a common failure in HVAC systems. contactor arcing shut. it was like lead build up like 3/16s high. coulda been 1/8.....but this thing was like 9 yrs old.....maybe 12. hell, that's a good life for a contactor, considering most are not sealed and are exposed to open air. but you use amps ALOT more that ac. maybe. |
#35
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"bob wald" wrote in message ... i just thunk this out. the word you are looking for is "thought". if i am wrong you probably are. then why would any amps need to be fixxed???? parts fail. they have been failing for years. with reduced prices and competition, there's not enough time to "burn in" and test every transistor before it's sold to a manufacturer. and dont say it was a manufactor defect. um, no, it would be a component failure. if no components ever failed, manufacturers wouldn't have to give warranties. if that was true it'd never work to start with. why not? |
#36
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ok fixxed a amp once
n=1, eh? So what was wrong with this amp? then 2weeks laters something else then something else What else? .i talk from experience.please you are embarrassing your selfs.....all electicial connetions when they make contact and sparks leave a lil build up. What are you doing to make your amp spark? i had a switch n my ac last year.a switch that automatic wouldnt disengage because the place it switches too had so much build up it always made contact.and the ac ran all the time. What was "built up"? Are you sure it wasn't refrigerant or dust? Yeah, I know, that sticky electricity is hard to get off. even when i turned it off. it was like lead build up like 3/16s high. coulda been 1/8.....but this thing was like 9 yrs old.....maybe 12. but you use amps ALOT more that ac. |
#37
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i believe you 1 smart cookie. those were the words i were thinking of.
arking- contactor. and all electrical connectons can have sparks.. and i dont mean 12inch sparks. a 1/16 spark. |
#38
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"bob wald" wrote in message ... i believe you 1 smart cookie. those were the words i were thinking of. arking- contactor. and all electrical connectons can have sparks.. and i dont mean 12inch sparks. a 1/16 spark. how can a solid,tight connection spark? |
#39
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i believe you 1 smart cookie. those were the words i were thinking of.
arking- contactor. and all electrical connectons can have sparks.. and i dont mean 12inch sparks. a 1/16 spark. Please explain to me which parts of an amp will "1/16" spark. |
#40
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bob wald wrote: ok fixxed a amp once then 2weeks laters something else then something else.i talk from experience.please you are embarrassing your selfs.....all electicial connetions when they make contact and sparks leave a lil build up. i had a switch n my ac last year.a switch that automatic wouldnt disengage because the place it switches too had so much build up it always made contact.and the ac ran all the time. even when i turned it off. it was like lead build up like 3/16s high. coulda been 1/8.....but this thing was like 9 yrs old.....maybe 12. but you use amps ALOT more that ac. Most amps don't have relays, thier protection scheme simply shuts down the oscilator that drives the power supply. THERE IS NOTHING IN THERE TO ARC. If there are solid component connections THERE IS NO ARCING. I have seen instances in professional applications where speaker relays will stick on, this is due to an amplifier delivering upwards of 100V into a 4 ohm load and the relay energizing when there is full signal present or in worst case an amp throwing rail DC, in this case the relay is the least of your worries. This occurs mostly in older amps such as crest and BGW. In fact if you short a side of finals in a crest 8001 you automatically replace the relay. Again part of "correct" repair procedures. Many modern pro amps also have switching power supplies, they have no speaker relays, it just drops the power supply. Chad |
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