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robert.waters robert.waters is offline
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Default RAC FAQ, section 2.1; question

Is there another way to perform the following process (in the rac FAQ,
section 2.1.1):
"After you have determined that there is noise in the system,
determine if the amplifier is causing the noise. To do this, mute the
signal at the inputs to the amp by using shorting plugs"
I do not have shorting plugs, nor do any of the car stereo outlets
near me.


Also, is there any product available for coating/wrapping/enclosing
wires in order to prevent noise due to power and signal wires being in
close proximity?

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D.Kreft D.Kreft is offline
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Default RAC FAQ, section 2.1; question

On Apr 29, 5:34 pm, "robert.waters" wrote:

Is there another way to perform the following process (in the rac FAQ,
section 2.1.1):
"After you have determined that there is noise in the system,
determine if the amplifier is causing the noise. To do this, mute the
signal at the inputs to the amp by using shorting plugs"

I do not have shorting plugs, nor do any of the car stereo outlets
near me.


Create them yourself....cut an old pair of RCAs and twist the inner
wire and she shield wire together---thus creating a short.

Also, is there any product available for coating/wrapping/enclosing
wires in order to prevent noise due to power and signal wires being in
close proximity?


Yeah, it's called "distance." There is pretty much nothing you can do
to reject low-frequency (where "low" means less than MHz or GHz range)
radiated noise. To minimize the radiated noise, the best thing you can
do is to route your signal cables as far away from "noisy" cables as
possible. If they must cross, make sure they cross a right-angles. And
if all that fails, and you're sure that the noise is radiated (and not
induced by a ground loop), then it might be time to purchase a
balanced line driver...but that shouldn't be necessary in most
situations.

-dan


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