I'm interested to know what methods anyone can recommend for stopping a sub
enclosure from moving around in a boot/trunk without taking up too much
space.

TIA.

I use bungie cords, they work well for me.

"Kevin Scott" wrote in message
...
I'm interested to know what methods anyone can recommend for stopping a
sub
enclosure from moving around in a boot/trunk without taking up too much
space.

TIA.

$.20 metal "L" brackets at the local hardware store if its a medium to large
box... industrial strength velcro pads if its a relativily small encloser.

Hope that helps
DJ TecThreat
The Real Threat


"Kevin Scott" wrote in message
...
I'm interested to know what methods anyone can recommend for stopping a
sub
enclosure from moving around in a boot/trunk without taking up too much
space.

TIA.

"Sonoman" wrote in message
.. .

I use bungie cords, they work well for me.

good luck picking that box out of the back of your head...
--
sancho

"DJ TecThreat" beaniATcharterDOTnetNOSPAM wrote in message
...

$.20 metal "L" brackets at the local hardware store if its a medium to
large
box...

that's more like it... metal brackets, bolts, screws... something strong...

industrial strength velcro pads if its a relativily small encloser.

by industrial strength you mean MEGA SUPER WICKED STRENGTH i hope... and by
relatively small you mean MEGA SUPER WICKED SMALL... right?

or he could just practice ducking... really fast...
--
sancho
DANGER

good luck picking that box out of the back of your head...
--
sancho



will it really fly out of the trunk through the seats in case of an accident
and if so much force was there, would 2 l brackets really preventi it?

"Z. Gluhak" wrote in message
...

will it really fly out of the trunk through the seats in case of an
accident

yes... imagine your average subwoofer box travelling at ~60mph hitting the
back of your seats... all that is required to remove most back seats is
light hand force...

and if so much force was there, would 2 l brackets really preventi it?

2? maybe not... did i suggest using only 2? though two would be better than
bungie cords any day i'd think...

i just read a story about a girl catching a box with her head... she won't
be breathing again anytime soon...

http://www.teamrocs.com/news/modules...article&sid=19

and i know a guy... a fellow teamROCS member who had a box shift during
cornering causing him to lose control and, if i remember correctly, total a
perfectly good asian ****box...
--
sancho
it's your ass... do what you like...

Don't sleep. Velcro, properly used, is a surprisingly effective fastener.
The heavy duty stuff has very strong adhesive and fabric - the weak point in
your installation would be the adhesive, i.e.; the grip the Velcro has on
the trunk surface. It is very difficult to shear a well engineered Velcro
connection. You want to have the Velcro oriented so that failure would mean
the box would "slide" the Velcro apart, not lift it apart.

"sancho" wrote in message
...

"DJ TecThreat" beaniATcharterDOTnetNOSPAM wrote in message
...

$.20 metal "L" brackets at the local hardware store if its a medium to
large
box...

that's more like it... metal brackets, bolts, screws... something
strong...

industrial strength velcro pads if its a relativily small encloser.

by industrial strength you mean MEGA SUPER WICKED STRENGTH i hope... and
by
relatively small you mean MEGA SUPER WICKED SMALL... right?

or he could just practice ducking... really fast...
--
sancho
DANGER

In article , "sancho" wrote:

Oh god, some people

or he could just practice ducking... really fast...

In a previous install I used 3/8" dia carriage bolts, washers and bolt
it to the frame / unibody. Of course you have to drill a hole through
the sheetmetal subfloor, crawl under the car and torque down the bolts
from the under side. I used stainless hardware to avoid rust. Only way
for that thing to clock me in an accident is if it were to rip the
washers through the MDF.

Garrett



Kevin Scott wrote:

I'm interested to know what methods anyone can recommend for stopping a sub
enclosure from moving around in a boot/trunk without taking up too much
space.

TIA.

"sancho" wrote in message
...

"Z. Gluhak" wrote in message
...

will it really fly out of the trunk through the seats in case of an
accident

yes... imagine your average subwoofer box travelling at ~60mph hitting the
back of your seats... all that is required to remove most back seats is
light hand force...


You are probably right...I keep thinking of my install where the box is
against the back seat and in an accident it wouldn't be 'flying' at the seat
as it's against the seat. but if the box were loose in a larger trunk it
would probably happen as you suggest.


and if so much force was there, would 2 l brackets really preventi it?

2? maybe not... did i suggest using only 2? though two would be better
than
bungie cords any day i'd think...

yeah probably need 4 heavy duty steel brackets at least not 2 cheap aluminum
ones

People!!! Don't use velcro and don't use bungee cords!!!

The sheer force involved in an accident or hard cornering/braking combined
with a heavy sub box could easily overwhelm these "achoring" devices.

Use some good, solid metal brackets or bolts and mount them securely to the
trunk floor or wall...or both.

Tony


--



What's more likely? That an all-powerful mysterious god created the
universe and then decided not to give any proof of his existence? Or, that
he simply doesn't exist at all? And that we created him so that we wouldn't
have to feel so small and alone. -Eleanor Arroway, Contact

"sanitarium" wrote in message
...
In a previous install I used 3/8" dia carriage bolts, washers and bolt
it to the frame / unibody. Of course you have to drill a hole through
the sheetmetal subfloor, crawl under the car and torque down the bolts
from the under side. I used stainless hardware to avoid rust. Only way
for that thing to clock me in an accident is if it were to rip the
washers through the MDF.

Garrett



Kevin Scott wrote:

I'm interested to know what methods anyone can recommend for stopping a
sub
enclosure from moving around in a boot/trunk without taking up too much
space.

TIA.

sancho wrote:
"Sonoman" wrote in message
.. .


I use bungie cords, they work well for me.


good luck picking that box out of the back of your head...

If he's in WA, he'll just get a ticket.

http://www.teamrocs.com/news/modules... der=0&thold=0

--
thelizman "I didn't steal the FAQ either"

Before you ask a question, check the FAQs for this newsgroup at
http://www.mobileaudio.com/rac-faq. It contains over a decade and
a half of knowledge.

teamROCS Car Audio Forums http://www.teamrocs.com/caraudio/
teamROCS Car Audio News http://www.teamrocs.com/news/
"It's about the music, stupid"

This post is Copyright (C) 2004. Reproduction of its content anywhere
other than usenet without the express written permission of the author
is forbidden.

sancho wrote:
i just read a story about a girl catching a box with her head... she won't
be breathing again anytime soon...

http://www.teamrocs.com/news/modules...article&sid=19

and i know a guy... a fellow teamROCS member who had a box shift during
cornering causing him to lose control and, if i remember correctly, total a
perfectly good asian ****box...

All of which could have been prevented with a $5 set of high-strength
quick-release latches available at most hardware stores in the cabinetry
section.

--
thelizman "I didn't steal the FAQ either"

Before you ask a question, check the FAQs for this newsgroup at
http://www.mobileaudio.com/rac-faq. It contains over a decade and
a half of knowledge.

teamROCS Car Audio Forums http://www.teamrocs.com/caraudio/
teamROCS Car Audio News http://www.teamrocs.com/news/
"It's about the music, stupid"

This post is Copyright (C) 2004. Reproduction of its content anywhere
other than usenet without the express written permission of the author
is forbidden.

sanitarium wrote:
Only way
for that thing to clock me in an accident is if it were to rip the
washers through the MDF.

Suprisingly easy, especially with MDF that's ever gotten wet.

--
thelizman "I didn't steal the FAQ either"

Before you ask a question, check the FAQs for this newsgroup at
http://www.mobileaudio.com/rac-faq. It contains over a decade and
a half of knowledge.

teamROCS Car Audio Forums http://www.teamrocs.com/caraudio/
teamROCS Car Audio News http://www.teamrocs.com/news/
"It's about the music, stupid"

This post is Copyright (C) 2004. Reproduction of its content anywhere
other than usenet without the express written permission of the author
is forbidden.

"thelizman" wrote in message
...
sanitarium wrote:
Only way
for that thing to clock me in an accident is if it were to rip the
washers through the MDF.

Suprisingly easy, especially with MDF that's ever gotten wet.

yeah... you might want to seal any holes you've made through to the outside
world... some rubber gaskets with the washers... maybe some silicone...
--
sancho
moisture + mdf = pulp

Then there was the accident that one of the Seahawks was in, guy was
their running back as I recall... SUV went out of control in the rain,
smashed into something hard (telephone pole or tree or somesuch) and the
woofer box with a pair of 15's ended up crushing his buddy in the back
seat. That's crushing, as in "to death"...

JD
seatbelts, big honking brackets holding down your sub box, and common
sense should NOT be optional

sancho wrote:

"Z. Gluhak" wrote in message
...



will it really fly out of the trunk through the seats in case of an


accident

yes... imagine your average subwoofer box travelling at ~60mph hitting the
back of your seats... all that is required to remove most back seats is
light hand force...



and if so much force was there, would 2 l brackets really preventi it?



2? maybe not... did i suggest using only 2? though two would be better than
bungie cords any day i'd think...

i just read a story about a girl catching a box with her head... she won't
be breathing again anytime soon...

http://www.teamrocs.com/news/modules...article&sid=19

and i know a guy... a fellow teamROCS member who had a box shift during
cornering causing him to lose control and, if i remember correctly, total a
perfectly good asian ****box...
--
sancho
it's your ass... do what you like...

Yet still more secure than bunjy cords or velcro.

Garrett

thelizman wrote:

sanitarium wrote:

Only way for that thing to clock me in an accident is if it were to
rip the washers through the MDF.


Suprisingly easy, especially with MDF that's ever gotten wet.

I thought about that, but since it is a hatchback and the seats have the
same type of fastening device as the doors they are well secured. You need a
lot more than a push to fold tem forward without unlocking them. I don't
think (at least I hope it will not) the box will get past the back seat on a
collission.


"sancho" wrote in message
...

"Sonoman" wrote in message
.. .

I use bungie cords, they work well for me.

good luck picking that box out of the back of your head...
--
sancho

"Sonoman" wrote in message
. ..
I thought about that, but since it is a hatchback and the seats have the
same type of fastening device as the doors they are well secured. You need
a
lot more than a push to fold tem forward without unlocking them. I don't
think (at least I hope it will not) the box will get past the back seat on
a
collission.


Unless you flip over a few times. I'm gonna fasten mine well in my hatchback
after giving it some thought. Think about it. You flip the car over, the
box comes out. Flip it over sideways after that and it's in your head. I'm
not gonna risk it.

I drive an SUV and have 3 15"s..... My box is secured to the cargo area
floor with 8 heavey guage bolts that come out the other side and have nuts
and washers tightened to the max, not to mention the box is fiberglassed
in... Aint goin' no-wea'!

DJ TecThreat
The Real Threat


"Z. Gluhak" wrote in message
...

"Sonoman" wrote in message
. ..
I thought about that, but since it is a hatchback and the seats have the
same type of fastening device as the doors they are well secured. You
need
a
lot more than a push to fold tem forward without unlocking them. I don't
think (at least I hope it will not) the box will get past the back seat
on
a
collission.


Unless you flip over a few times. I'm gonna fasten mine well in my
hatchback
after giving it some thought. Think about it. You flip the car over, the
box comes out. Flip it over sideways after that and it's in your head.
I'm
not gonna risk it.

"Sonoman" wrote in message
. ..
I thought about that, but since it is a hatchback and the seats have the
same type of fastening device as the doors they are well secured. You need
a
lot more than a push to fold tem forward without unlocking them. I don't
think (at least I hope it will not) the box will get past the back seat on
a
collission.

don't come crying to me

In article ,
"Sonoman" wrote:
I thought about that, but since it is a hatchback and the seats have the
same type of fastening device as the doors they are well secured. You need a
lot more than a push to fold tem forward without unlocking them. I don't
think (at least I hope it will not) the box will get past the back seat on a
collission.

It will, easily. I'll bet that unless you're a weedy little runt, there's a
good chance you'd be able to lie in the back of the car and break the seat
backs just by kicking hard against them with your legs.

Now, go here and read:

http://www.vcu.edu/cppweb/tstc/kinetic.html

They point out that forces of 40 to 50 G are routinely recorded during
the standard 30 MPH crash tests.
Your sub box weighs, for example, 50 pounds.
Multiply that by 50: 50 x 50 = 2500 pounds.

That's well over a ton. If you were to suspend your car nose down, then
stack over a ton of weights onto the back of the seat, do you think the seat
locks would hold? Would you be prepared to be buckled into the driver's
seat while the weights were stacked? What do you think would happen to you
if more than a ton of weights landed on you? It'd be ironic if you were to
hit something, be saved by the seat belt and airbag, then be mashed to
strawberry jam by your sub box.

Bolt that sub box to the vehicle frame. NOW.

It needs to be bolted down as securely as a trailer hitch would be mounted.
This means high-tensile bolts and big load spreading washers. The bolts
should run right through the box- it's no use just bolting the bottom down,
the rest of the box will likely rip off it and go flying.

If you doubt that, just take a sledge hammer to an old sub box sometime.(*)
I'll wager that it'll only take one big swing to break out the bottom or a
side if you hit it from the inside near one edge (puts the joint under
maximum tension). The sledge head weighs 20 pounds or less and is moving
less than 30 MPH. I'll bet your sub drivers weigh 20 pounds or more, and
they will be moving faster in even a moderate collison.

(*) Yes, I have done this. They were water and smoke damaged and had to be
written off. We broke them up so they'd pack flat in the dumpster.

--
Don Hills (dmhills at attglobaldotnet) Wellington, New Zealand

Don't you all remember the story from driver's education about the tissue
box that was sitting on the rear parcel shelf? Some poor guy got hit in the
back of the neck with it during a collision and it impacted against his
spinal cord so hard it paralyzed him.

Tony


--



What's more likely? That an all-powerful mysterious god created the
universe and then decided not to give any proof of his existence? Or, that
he simply doesn't exist at all? And that we created him so that we wouldn't
have to feel so small and alone. -Eleanor Arroway, Contact