I have a 300M with the Infinity II system - all in all not bad. The amps
get harsh and the bass gets muddy when pushed hard though. I don't want to
spend allot of money but I do want a better sound. I know what I'm talking
about as far as sound goes I've sold home CE for 15 years - Adcom , Aragon,
B&K, Sunfire, Denon and Yamaha electronics and as far as speakers KEF,
Apogee, Martin Logan, Vienna, Sonus, Mirage Monitor Audio to name a few. So
I am familiar with what's out there.

Those are my goals now here's the theory. I'm looking at the Infinity
BassLink - $300.00 - online and just adding some 60 - 80hz bass blockers.
This should lighten up the load on the amps and give me about 6dB more head
room - at least if you did this in home these are the numbers you would be
looking at. Does this sound correct. The 300M system is bizarre - powered
head unit - speaker level into amps - amps have and internal cross over that
then go out to what are in essence component speakers. Should I 1) put the
bass blockers in between the head unit and the amp or 2) the amp and the
speakers.

Marc

Those are my goals now here's the theory. I'm looking at the Infinity
BassLink - $300.00 - online and just adding some 60 - 80hz bass blockers.
This should lighten up the load on the amps and give me about 6dB more
head
room - at least if you did this in home these are the numbers you would be
looking at. Does this sound correct.

No, it's not correct. Passive filters on the amplified output will not
improve headroom.

The 300M system is bizarre - powered
head unit - speaker level into amps - amps have and internal cross over
that
then go out to what are in essence component speakers. Should I 1) put
the
bass blockers in between the head unit and the amp or 2) the amp and the
speakers.

Putting a filter between the head unit and amp will improve headroom, but
between the amp and speakers won't improve headroom. However, the cutoff
frequency depends on the load, so you need to know the amplifier's input
impedance to determine what size capacitors you need. A standard ohmmeter
will give you that information, and a calculator will tell you what size
caps you need. Go to passivecrossovers.com for the equation.

If you could stretch your budget a little more and add a CD headunit
with line level subwoofer outputs, that would be better IMHO.

There's nothing wrong with most newer stock head units. In fact, I've gone
from Eclipse 5342in one car, to Nakamichi cd-45z in my last car, now to the
stock HU. No degradation in performance. In fact, I like this one better
than the Nak.

I like the 4 disk changer and just the other all look. I don't want to take
up anymore room in the truck than I have too. The only place that I
listened to the sub was at CC and the "soundroom" opened onto the main floor
so it was real hard to tell what the sub could do short of getting right on
top of it.

Marc

"Mark Zarella" wrote in message
...
If you could stretch your budget a little more and add a CD headunit
with line level subwoofer outputs, that would be better IMHO.

There's nothing wrong with most newer stock head units. In fact, I've
gone
from Eclipse 5342in one car, to Nakamichi cd-45z in my last car, now to
the
stock HU. No degradation in performance. In fact, I like this one better
than the Nak.

True... I just recommended a HU because many come with a built in active
sub crossover. Although many amps already have a simple low pass
filter.

Garrett

Mark Zarella wrote:

If you could stretch your budget a little more and add a CD headunit
with line level subwoofer outputs, that would be better IMHO.

There's nothing wrong with most newer stock head units. In fact, I've gone
from Eclipse 5342in one car, to Nakamichi cd-45z in my last car, now to the
stock HU. No degradation in performance. In fact, I like this one better
than the Nak.

No way..double checked that.

It just fell short in terms of clean SPL and sub-frequency extension
(below 50 Hz) for the ammopunt of $$$ spent.
For $300 this is a far better set up (IMHO):

One of these in a small sealed enclosure.
http://www.adireaudio.com/Merchant2/...ory_Code=30.10

Either of these amps bridged, using their active crossover.
http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S...&cc =01&avf=N
http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S...&cc =01&avf=N

300 clean watts @ 12.9 Volts with plenty of sub-bass output.

Just my oppinion...
Garrett

Greg wrote:

I have a Basslink in the trunk of my Civic and I am more than satisfied with
the sound. Your co-worker must have had it hooked up wrong.
Greg
"Sanitarium" wrote in message
...
Hi Marc... if your ears like the way it sounds then by all means go for
it. you are correct in assuming the CC showroom acoustics are
completely different than your vehicle. What sounds good in the
showroom may sound bad in the car. My previous oppinion is based on a
co-workers basslink in the trunk of his civic.

One more thing... many 10" subs are optimized for small enclosures of
less than 1 cubic foot (not much bigger than a basslink). Whatever you
choose, use your ears and go with what sounds good.
Garrett

Marc wrote:

I like the 4 disk changer and just the other all look. I don't want to
take
up anymore room in the truck than I have too. The only place that I
listened to the sub was at CC and the "soundroom" opened onto the main
floor
so it was real hard to tell what the sub could do short of getting right
on
top of it.

Marc

"Mark Zarella" wrote in message
...
If you could stretch your budget a little more and add a CD headunit
with line level subwoofer outputs, that would be better IMHO.

There's nothing wrong with most newer stock head units. In fact, I've
gone
from Eclipse 5342in one car, to Nakamichi cd-45z in my last car, now
to
the
stock HU. No degradation in performance. In fact, I like this one
better
than the Nak.

He used monster 201 RCA cables, and used the line level subwoofer output
from his Pioneer MP3/CD headunit. his crossover point was set to 80
Hz. Scoshe 4 gage and 8 gage cables were used with a 1-4 distribution
block for power and ground.

Tested it with Bass Mechanik CD for sub bass performance, test tones,
and sine sweeps below 50 Hz.

This was his 4th or 5th install. It was a pretty clean install IMHO.
Im not saying it sounded terrible... just that he could have gotten more
for $300 IMHO.

Garrett

Greg wrote:

just curious, did he use line level inputs or did he tap into the speaker
wires. and if he did use the line level, was it a designated sub out or was
it just a regular line out?
this question is regarding Sanitarium's co-workers civic.
"Sanitarium" wrote in message
...
No way..double checked that.

It just fell short in terms of clean SPL and sub-frequency extension
(below 50 Hz) for the ammopunt of $$$ spent.
For $300 this is a far better set up (IMHO):

One of these in a small sealed enclosure.

http://www.adireaudio.com/Merchant2/...ory_Code=30.10

Either of these amps bridged, using their active crossover.

http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S...&cc =01&avf=N

http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S...&cc =01&avf=N

300 clean watts @ 12.9 Volts with plenty of sub-bass output.

Just my oppinion...
Garrett

Greg wrote:

I have a Basslink in the trunk of my Civic and I am more than satisfied
with
the sound. Your co-worker must have had it hooked up wrong.
Greg
"Sanitarium" wrote in message
...
Hi Marc... if your ears like the way it sounds then by all means go
for
it. you are correct in assuming the CC showroom acoustics are
completely different than your vehicle. What sounds good in the
showroom may sound bad in the car. My previous oppinion is based on a
co-workers basslink in the trunk of his civic.

One more thing... many 10" subs are optimized for small enclosures of
less than 1 cubic foot (not much bigger than a basslink). Whatever
you
choose, use your ears and go with what sounds good.
Garrett

Marc wrote:

I like the 4 disk changer and just the other all look. I don't want
to
take
up anymore room in the truck than I have too. The only place that I
listened to the sub was at CC and the "soundroom" opened onto the
main
floor
so it was real hard to tell what the sub could do short of getting
right
on
top of it.

Marc

"Mark Zarella" wrote in message
...
If you could stretch your budget a little more and add a CD
headunit
with line level subwoofer outputs, that would be better IMHO.

There's nothing wrong with most newer stock head units. In fact,
I've
gone
from Eclipse 5342in one car, to Nakamichi cd-45z in my last car,
now
to
the
stock HU. No degradation in performance. In fact, I like this
one
better
than the Nak.

sounds like a pretty clean install. i guess i just have a different
preference in sound. i just wanted some bass fill in and it sounds like he
wanted some spleen rupturing bass.
"Sanitarium" wrote in message
...
He used monster 201 RCA cables, and used the line level subwoofer output
from his Pioneer MP3/CD headunit. his crossover point was set to 80
Hz. Scoshe 4 gage and 8 gage cables were used with a 1-4 distribution
block for power and ground.

Tested it with Bass Mechanik CD for sub bass performance, test tones,
and sine sweeps below 50 Hz.

This was his 4th or 5th install. It was a pretty clean install IMHO.
Im not saying it sounded terrible... just that he could have gotten more
for $300 IMHO.

Garrett

Greg wrote:

just curious, did he use line level inputs or did he tap into the
speaker
wires. and if he did use the line level, was it a designated sub out or
was
it just a regular line out?
this question is regarding Sanitarium's co-workers civic.
"Sanitarium" wrote in message
...
No way..double checked that.

It just fell short in terms of clean SPL and sub-frequency extension
(below 50 Hz) for the ammopunt of $$$ spent.
For $300 this is a far better set up (IMHO):

One of these in a small sealed enclosure.


http://www.adireaudio.com/Merchant2/...ory_Code=30.10

Either of these amps bridged, using their active crossover.


http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S...&cc =01&avf=N


http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S...&cc =01&avf=N

300 clean watts @ 12.9 Volts with plenty of sub-bass output.

Just my oppinion...
Garrett

Greg wrote:

I have a Basslink in the trunk of my Civic and I am more than
satisfied
with
the sound. Your co-worker must have had it hooked up wrong.
Greg
"Sanitarium" wrote in message
...
Hi Marc... if your ears like the way it sounds then by all means
go
for
it. you are correct in assuming the CC showroom acoustics are
completely different than your vehicle. What sounds good in the
showroom may sound bad in the car. My previous oppinion is based
on a
co-workers basslink in the trunk of his civic.

One more thing... many 10" subs are optimized for small enclosures
of
less than 1 cubic foot (not much bigger than a basslink).
Whatever
you
choose, use your ears and go with what sounds good.
Garrett

Marc wrote:

I like the 4 disk changer and just the other all look. I don't
want
to
take
up anymore room in the truck than I have too. The only place
that I
listened to the sub was at CC and the "soundroom" opened onto
the
main
floor
so it was real hard to tell what the sub could do short of
getting
right
on
top of it.

Marc

"Mark Zarella" wrote in message
...
If you could stretch your budget a little more and add a CD
headunit
with line level subwoofer outputs, that would be better
IMHO.

There's nothing wrong with most newer stock head units. In
fact,
I've
gone
from Eclipse 5342in one car, to Nakamichi cd-45z in my last
car,
now
to
the
stock HU. No degradation in performance. In fact, I like
this
one
better
than the Nak.

Yup. beauty is in the eye of the listener.
everyone hears things different.

Garrett

Greg wrote:

sounds like a pretty clean install. i guess i just have a different
preference in sound. i just wanted some bass fill in and it sounds like he
wanted some spleen rupturing bass.
"Sanitarium" wrote in message
...
He used monster 201 RCA cables, and used the line level subwoofer output
from his Pioneer MP3/CD headunit. his crossover point was set to 80
Hz. Scoshe 4 gage and 8 gage cables were used with a 1-4 distribution
block for power and ground.

Tested it with Bass Mechanik CD for sub bass performance, test tones,
and sine sweeps below 50 Hz.

This was his 4th or 5th install. It was a pretty clean install IMHO.
Im not saying it sounded terrible... just that he could have gotten more
for $300 IMHO.

Garrett

Greg wrote:

just curious, did he use line level inputs or did he tap into the
speaker
wires. and if he did use the line level, was it a designated sub out or
was
it just a regular line out?
this question is regarding Sanitarium's co-workers civic.
"Sanitarium" wrote in message
...
No way..double checked that.

It just fell short in terms of clean SPL and sub-frequency extension
(below 50 Hz) for the ammopunt of $$$ spent.
For $300 this is a far better set up (IMHO):

One of these in a small sealed enclosure.


http://www.adireaudio.com/Merchant2/...ory_Code=30.10

Either of these amps bridged, using their active crossover.


http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S...&cc =01&avf=N


http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S...&cc =01&avf=N

300 clean watts @ 12.9 Volts with plenty of sub-bass output.

Just my oppinion...
Garrett

Greg wrote:

I have a Basslink in the trunk of my Civic and I am more than
satisfied
with
the sound. Your co-worker must have had it hooked up wrong.
Greg
"Sanitarium" wrote in message
...
Hi Marc... if your ears like the way it sounds then by all means
go
for
it. you are correct in assuming the CC showroom acoustics are
completely different than your vehicle. What sounds good in the
showroom may sound bad in the car. My previous oppinion is based
on a
co-workers basslink in the trunk of his civic.

One more thing... many 10" subs are optimized for small enclosures
of
less than 1 cubic foot (not much bigger than a basslink).
Whatever
you
choose, use your ears and go with what sounds good.
Garrett

Marc wrote:

I like the 4 disk changer and just the other all look. I don't
want
to
take
up anymore room in the truck than I have too. The only place
that I
listened to the sub was at CC and the "soundroom" opened onto
the
main
floor
so it was real hard to tell what the sub could do short of
getting
right
on
top of it.

Marc

"Mark Zarella" wrote in message
...
If you could stretch your budget a little more and add a CD
headunit
with line level subwoofer outputs, that would be better
IMHO.

There's nothing wrong with most newer stock head units. In
fact,
I've
gone
from Eclipse 5342in one car, to Nakamichi cd-45z in my last
car,
now
to
the
stock HU. No degradation in performance. In fact, I like
this
one
better
than the Nak.