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Terry[_3_] Terry[_3_] is offline
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Default info HELP needed with HICKOK 534

Are there any bad Hickok tube testers that someone advises not
buying?
Everyone's first choice to buy seems to be a Hickok.
They all can't be that good.
How about a model 534 Hickok?

thanks,
Terry

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Peter Wieck Peter Wieck is offline
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Default info HELP needed with HICKOK 534

On Aug 19, 5:53 pm, Terry wrote:
Are there any bad Hickok tube testers that someone advises not
buying?
Everyone's first choice to buy seems to be a Hickok.
They all can't be that good.
How about a model 534 Hickok?

thanks,
Terry


Put simply, the 534 is a good tester. Somewhat complicated due to VOM
circuitry added. If in 100% working condition and clean, worth a look.
It is the predecessor to the 539 series, more awkward to use and has
limited sockets. So make sure it serves your actual and anticipated
needs.

It is worth a premium of *perhaps* $75 over a similarly equipped
emissions-only tester, but NO MORE... given my arbitrary value-scale,
this means $100 - $125 max for a pristine version.

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA

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Terry[_3_] Terry[_3_] is offline
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Default info HELP needed with HICKOK 534

On Aug 19, 6:27 pm, Peter Wieck wrote:
On Aug 19, 5:53 pm, Terry wrote:

Are there any bad Hickok tube testers that someone advises not
buying?
Everyone's first choice to buy seems to be a Hickok.
They all can't be that good.
How about a model 534 Hickok?


thanks,
Terry


Put simply, the 534 is a good tester. Somewhat complicated due to VOM
circuitry added. If in 100% working condition and clean, worth a look.
It is the predecessor to the 539 series, more awkward to use and has
limited sockets. So make sure it serves your actual and anticipated
needs.

It is worth a premium of *perhaps* $75 over a similarly equipped
emissions-only tester, but NO MORE... given my arbitrary value-scale,
this means $100 - $125 max for a pristine version.

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA


Are you saying the Hickok 534 would only be worth $125 in excellent
condition?

Thanks,
Terry

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Peter Wieck Peter Wieck is offline
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Default info HELP needed with HICKOK 534

On Aug 19, 7:02 pm, Terry wrote:

Are you saying the Hickok 534 would only be worth $125 in excellent
condition?


Yep.

a) The *primary* reason for an MC tester these days is for the proper
matching of tubes. The 534 cannot do this without difficult
adaptations. And even then, as it does not have adjustable bias, the
results would be questionable.

b) The *secondary* reason for an MC tester these days is speed and
efficiency. The 534 is not a Cardomatic, so it is neither fast nor
efficient.

After which a decent Emissions Only tester capable of testing "Shorts"
and "Gas" is more than adequate for 99-44/100% of all general
applications. Decent Emissions Only testers may be had for $25-$50.
So, anything short of testers meeting a) and/or b) criteria above are
worth no more than an extremely accurate emissions tester... or $100 -
$125 USD.

Keep in mind that tube testers are remarkably complex tools that have
acquired a near-legendary but almost entirely undeserved reputation
for being both necessary and useful tools for the tube-audio hobby.
For the most part, they are neither as the typical user both does not
understand their actual use and even then invests far too much trust
in the results obtained from them. I keep a Hickok 539B (an actually
useful tester) and a Simpson 555 emissions-only tester.

http://cgi.ebay.com/SIMPSON-555-TUBE...QQcmdZViewItem
(NOT MINE)

http://cgi.ebay.com/Hickok-539B-Tube...QQcmdZViewItem
(NOT MINE)

Of the two, the Simpson answers most of my daily needs, and was
obtained for $50 with all the updated data and tube lists, and is very
clean and nice. The 539B gets trotted out when I have to match tubes
and/or do actual quality tests and test tubes under various
parameters... or perhaps once every couple of months. Yes, it will be
pried from my cold, dead fingers but for all that I have a very
realistic understanding of its actual utility and the information it
delivers.

Tube testers are NOT magic. They are no better than the average
screwdriver. Unless they happen to be the correct fit for the specific
screw at-hand, they are almost worse than useless. Much like variacs
without meters.

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA



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Mike Mueller Mike Mueller is offline
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Default info HELP needed with HICKOK 534

Peter Wieck wrote:
On Aug 19, 5:53 pm, Terry wrote:

Are there any bad Hickok tube testers that someone advises not
buying?
Everyone's first choice to buy seems to be a Hickok.
They all can't be that good.
How about a model 534 Hickok?

thanks,
Terry



Put simply, the 534 is a good tester. Somewhat complicated due to VOM
circuitry added. If in 100% working condition and clean, worth a look.
It is the predecessor to the 539 series, more awkward to use and has
limited sockets. So make sure it serves your actual and anticipated
needs.

It is worth a premium of *perhaps* $75 over a similarly equipped
emissions-only tester, but NO MORE... given my arbitrary value-scale,
this means $100 - $125 max for a pristine version.

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA

Peter
You seem to know were one can buy a 539 series for $125.00 This e-bay
link is for $900.00
Could you share this source with use? I'll buy one right now for that
price. Cash on the spot and pay what ever for shipping
Thanks
Mike Mueller


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Peter Wieck Peter Wieck is offline
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Default info HELP needed with HICKOK 534

On Aug 19, 10:35 pm, mike mueller wrote:

Peter
You seem to know were one can buy a 539 series for $125.00 This e-bay
link is for $900.00
Could you share this source with use? I'll buy one right now for that
price. Cash on the spot and pay what ever for shipping
Thanks
Mike Mueller


Mike:

I paid $100 for mine. They show up regularly at Kutztown in various
stages of undress in the $150 - $400 range, and near-perfect at $500+
or so. But that is *NOT* the point, nor is it what I wrote. My point
is that if one is to have a tube tester at all, then it should either
be capable of the full gamut of tests *or* be very fast and convenient
*or* be as simple as possible. Otherwise, those falling outside of
those parameters give nothing useful such that they should command a
premium price.

If one is looking for something to test tubes for vintage radios or
even most vintage equipment, a simple emissions-tester with "shorts"
and "gas" capacity is more than adequate. Those are available any day
of the week in the $25 - $50 range.

If one is require to test many different types of tubes in bulk (but
not much more than that) and needs a level of accuracy that suggests
resale of said tubes, then a Cardomatic is about the only way to fly.

If one is required to actually "match" tubes, then one needs a tester
capable of allowing or doing those tests conveniently and directly.

Accordingly, the latter two types of testers command a (perhaps
irrational) premium over simple emissions-type testers. And somehow
similar-but-less-capable testers are invested with the same mythology,
yet really provide little more truly useful information than the
emissions-tester.

Keep in mind at all times, that the best and most accurate test of any
tube is its behavior in-circuit. So, about any tester when used for
general purposes does no more than deliver GO/NO-GO
"suggestions" (excepting shorts and gas failures of course). Spending
premium $$ on an otherwise unremarkable tester because it carries the
Hickok name is foolish under those conditions. But, MC testers are
"better" than emissions testers all other things being equal, so some
additional value is justified.

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA

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Terry[_3_] Terry[_3_] is offline
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Default info HELP needed with HICKOK 534

On Aug 20, 6:00 am, Peter Wieck wrote:
On Aug 19, 10:35 pm, mike mueller wrote:

Peter
You seem to know were one can buy a 539 series for $125.00 This e-bay
link is for $900.00
Could you share this source with use? I'll buy one right now for that
price. Cash on the spot and pay what ever for shipping
Thanks
Mike Mueller


Mike:

I paid $100 for mine. They show up regularly at Kutztown in various
stages of undress in the $150 - $400 range, and near-perfect at $500+
or so. But that is *NOT* the point, nor is it what I wrote. My point
is that if one is to have a tube tester at all, then it should either
be capable of the full gamut of tests *or* be very fast and convenient
*or* be as simple as possible. Otherwise, those falling outside of
those parameters give nothing useful such that they should command a
premium price.

If one is looking for something to test tubes for vintage radios or
even most vintage equipment, a simple emissions-tester with "shorts"
and "gas" capacity is more than adequate. Those are available any day
of the week in the $25 - $50 range.

If one is require to test many different types of tubes in bulk (but
not much more than that) and needs a level of accuracy that suggests
resale of said tubes, then a Cardomatic is about the only way to fly.

If one is required to actually "match" tubes, then one needs a tester
capable of allowing or doing those tests conveniently and directly.

Accordingly, the latter two types of testers command a (perhaps
irrational) premium over simple emissions-type testers. And somehow
similar-but-less-capable testers are invested with the same mythology,
yet really provide little more truly useful information than the
emissions-tester.

Keep in mind at all times, that the best and most accurate test of any
tube is its behavior in-circuit. So, about any tester when used for
general purposes does no more than deliver GO/NO-GO
"suggestions" (excepting shorts and gas failures of course). Spending
premium $$ on an otherwise unremarkable tester because it carries the
Hickok name is foolish under those conditions. But, MC testers are
"better" than emissions testers all other things being equal, so some
additional value is justified.

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA


Peter,
I hear a lot of words coming from someone who surely has years of
experience.
But for those of us who don't have this background, I need names and
model #s.
What models do you recommend?
Break them down into different catagories if you like.
Choice 1,2,3,etc. and for what application.

Thanks,
Terry





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graham graham is offline
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Default info HELP needed with HICKOK 534


"Terry" wrote in message
ups.com...
Are there any bad Hickok tube testers that someone advises not
buying?
Everyone's first choice to buy seems to be a Hickok.
They all can't be that good.
How about a model 534 Hickok?



http://www.tubewizard.com/recommende...ok_testers.htm

http://bellsouthpwp.net/p/a/padgett46/hickok.htm


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Peter Wieck Peter Wieck is offline
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Default info HELP needed with HICKOK 534

On Aug 20, 9:08 am, Terry wrote:


Peter,
I hear a lot of words coming from someone who surely has years of
experience.
But for those of us who don't have this background, I need names and
model #s.
What models do you recommend?
Break them down into different catagories if you like.
Choice 1,2,3,etc. and for what application.


Terry:

In emissions-type testers, you are looking for something that is well-
supported in the market (has all the updates for the post-manufacture
tubes), is relatively simple to maintain and has good basic design.
Then, there are well-made testers that are less well supported, and
extremely well supported testers of sometimes questionable
construction.

Of the former, Simpson comes to mind. Extremely rugged and well-made.
Updates are available if somewhat hard to chase down. As are
schematics. But there are fewer of them. Other names along this line
are some of the lower-end Jackson & B&K. Again, $25 - $50 should be
your range.

Of the latter the kits come to mind: Heith, Eico and National come to
mind, with Heath leading the list in support and data. The difficulty
is that a kit can be anything from something put together with pluming
solder and acid flux to a labor of love from a skilled tech. Until you
get hold of it and look inside, you will not know, nor is any eBay
seller going to be able to tell you with any degree of certainty. Same
range.

Then, there is NRI and their ilk. Very simple testers that do the job
if in good condition, updates are available but a PITA to find, cheap,
cheap, cheap. Condition, condition, condition.

In MC testers, AVO and Hickok are the Bee's Knees, Cult Favorites,
whatever your choice of words. EVERYTHING else is second to them.

Avoid Hickok emissions-only testers like the plague. And the most
basic advice I can give is to NOT buy a tester until you can kick the
tires. Or, that the price is so low that you are willing to invest
whatever it takes to make it go (and you may need to do nothing at
all), or toss it if it cannot be made to go.

I have a Hickok 539B. I would pay $100 + that tester to go to a 539C
in equally good condition. I have no real use for a Cardmatic Hickok,
but for those who have volume issues, it is the way to go.

The Military testers (I77, TV-7 and clones) are very nice but also
limited. Pretty much all the second-tier MC Testers are limited. That
is the problem in a nutshell.

Assume I had no MC-type tester, and really wanted one for the same
reasons I have one now... the occasional matching of tubes, and actual
quality tests between similar tubes. I *might* pay $400 for one with
that capacity, but in the real world, that is pretty much limited to
either the 539 Hickok series, or modifications to other testers which
I am not prepared to do. Or to some testers in the AVO line, quite
scarce in the US.

Not sure if this answers you question, but it is all according to what
you want to do with it. My *OPINION* is that there is little to choose
between a very nice emissions-only tester and a TOL Tester capable of
true quality tests and matching. It is pretty much the case as it
applies to the hobbyist that everything is a Hyundai (gets you from
here to there) until it is a Mercedes or a Ferrari... at least as
prices have gotten these days. And do you really need either a
Mercedes or a Ferrari to just get you from here to there?

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA

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Terry[_3_] Terry[_3_] is offline
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Default info HELP needed with HICKOK 534

On Aug 20, 4:22 pm, Peter Wieck wrote:
On Aug 20, 9:08 am, Terry wrote:



Peter,
I hear a lot of words coming from someone who surely has years of
experience.
But for those of us who don't have this background, I need names and
model #s.
What models do you recommend?
Break them down into different catagories if you like.
Choice 1,2,3,etc. and for what application.


Terry:

In emissions-type testers, you are looking for something that is well-
supported in the market (has all the updates for the post-manufacture
tubes), is relatively simple to maintain and has good basic design.
Then, there are well-made testers that are less well supported, and
extremely well supported testers of sometimes questionable
construction.

Of the former, Simpson comes to mind. Extremely rugged and well-made.
Updates are available if somewhat hard to chase down. As are
schematics. But there are fewer of them. Other names along this line
are some of the lower-end Jackson & B&K. Again, $25 - $50 should be
your range.

Of the latter the kits come to mind: Heith, Eico and National come to
mind, with Heath leading the list in support and data. The difficulty
is that a kit can be anything from something put together with pluming
solder and acid flux to a labor of love from a skilled tech. Until you
get hold of it and look inside, you will not know, nor is any eBay
seller going to be able to tell you with any degree of certainty. Same
range.

Then, there is NRI and their ilk. Very simple testers that do the job
if in good condition, updates are available but a PITA to find, cheap,
cheap, cheap. Condition, condition, condition.

In MC testers, AVO and Hickok are the Bee's Knees, Cult Favorites,
whatever your choice of words. EVERYTHING else is second to them.

Avoid Hickok emissions-only testers like the plague. And the most
basic advice I can give is to NOT buy a tester until you can kick the
tires. Or, that the price is so low that you are willing to invest
whatever it takes to make it go (and you may need to do nothing at
all), or toss it if it cannot be made to go.

I have a Hickok 539B. I would pay $100 + that tester to go to a 539C
in equally good condition. I have no real use for a Cardmatic Hickok,
but for those who have volume issues, it is the way to go.

The Military testers (I77, TV-7 and clones) are very nice but also
limited. Pretty much all the second-tier MC Testers are limited. That
is the problem in a nutshell.

Assume I had no MC-type tester, and really wanted one for the same
reasons I have one now... the occasional matching of tubes, and actual
quality tests between similar tubes. I *might* pay $400 for one with
that capacity, but in the real world, that is pretty much limited to
either the 539 Hickok series, or modifications to other testers which
I am not prepared to do. Or to some testers in the AVO line, quite
scarce in the US.

Not sure if this answers you question, but it is all according to what
you want to do with it. My *OPINION* is that there is little to choose
between a very nice emissions-only tester and a TOL Tester capable of
true quality tests and matching. It is pretty much the case as it
applies to the hobbyist that everything is a Hyundai (gets you from
here to there) until it is a Mercedes or a Ferrari... at least as
prices have gotten these days. And do you really need either a
Mercedes or a Ferrari to just get you from here to there?

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA


Thanks for the information.
At the present I'm restoring "All American Five" 1940's radios.
In the future I might move into guitar amp repairs.
Everything I"ve read says to spend your money on MC testers and stay
away from emissions types.
I just bought a Jackson 648. I hope that will handle my needs until I
can afford that Hickok 539.

Terry

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