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#1
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Dyns in doors
In case anyone cares...:-)
I just finished putting my Dynaudio system 360 in my Maxima. Man I MISSED these babies!!! The 8s are in the doors behind the stock grills and the mids and tweets are in Q-Logic kick panels. Pics: http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...50_89_full.jpg http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...50_88_full.jpg http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...50_87_full.jpg Tony -- What's more likely? That an all-powerful mysterious god created the universe and then decided not to give any proof of his existence? Or, that he simply doesn't exist at all? And that we created him so that we wouldn't have to feel so small and alone. -Eleanor Arroway, Contact |
#2
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Dyns in doors
In case anyone cares...:-)
I just finished putting my Dynaudio system 360 in my Maxima. Man I MISSED these babies!!! The 8s are in the doors behind the stock grills and the mids and tweets are in Q-Logic kick panels. Yeah, but how's it SOUND? |
#3
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Dyns in doors
"Yeah, but how's it SOUND? "
They sound frickin' GREAT!! Sometime down the line I may try to angle mount the midwoofers slightly upwards and rearwards...if there's room. I'm also waiting to install my PG EQ232 1/3 order EQ and run the system actively using my PG ZX amps and ditch the passive Dyn xovers. Which brings me to a question. When I had these speakers in my Explorer I was running them actively. Dynaudio suggested I run a capacitor inline with the tweeters. As per their recommendation I purchased some Solen capitors from partsexpress and hooked 'em on to the tweeters. Each set of drivers had their dedicated amp channel, a PG ZX475ti 4-channel driving the tweets and midranges, and half of a PGZX450 4-channel driving the midwoofers (the other half of the ZX450 drove my sub). Anyway, one day I was using my Radio Shack SPL meter & a IASCA test disc to measure the frequency response of the system. I then used the EQ 232 to flatten everything out. I notcied that everything above 10KHz started sloping down considerably so I boosted those frequencies (all the way up to 20KHz) to bring them flat. While doing so I completely arc welded the tweeters. Why did this happen? I "assumed" that flattening the response would not have done any damage. What was the purpose of the capacitor? Any help will be appreciated. I want to run the system actively as I did before, but not at the expense of $200 tweeters. Oh and the capacitor was a 20 uF +/- 5% 400VDC. Tony -- What's more likely? That an all-powerful mysterious god created the universe and then decided not to give any proof of his existence? Or, that he simply doesn't exist at all? And that we created him so that we wouldn't have to feel so small and alone. -Eleanor Arroway, Contact "Mark Zarella" wrote in message ... In case anyone cares...:-) I just finished putting my Dynaudio system 360 in my Maxima. Man I MISSED these babies!!! The 8s are in the doors behind the stock grills and the mids and tweets are in Q-Logic kick panels. Yeah, but how's it SOUND? |
#4
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Dyns in doors
They sound frickin' GREAT!! Sometime down the line I may try to angle
mount the midwoofers slightly upwards and rearwards...if there's room. I'm also waiting to install my PG EQ232 1/3 order EQ and run the system actively using my PG ZX amps and ditch the passive Dyn xovers. Which brings me to a question. When I had these speakers in my Explorer I was running them actively. Dynaudio suggested I run a capacitor inline with the tweeters. As per their recommendation I purchased some Solen capitors from partsexpress and hooked 'em on to the tweeters. Each set of drivers had their dedicated amp channel, a PG ZX475ti 4-channel driving the tweets and midranges, and half of a PGZX450 4-channel driving the midwoofers (the other half of the ZX450 drove my sub). Anyway, one day I was using my Radio Shack SPL meter & a IASCA test disc to measure the frequency response of the system. I then used the EQ 232 to flatten everything out. I notcied that everything above 10KHz started sloping down considerably so I boosted those frequencies (all the way up to 20KHz) to bring them flat. While doing so I completely arc welded the tweeters. Why did this happen? I "assumed" that flattening the response would not have done any damage. The problem was most likely the fact that we (listeners of somewhat loud audio systems that aren't bass/treble-heads) tend to like a downward sloping frequency response. There are many reasons for this, one key one having to do with the ear's frequency response which can "roughly" be demonstrated in the psychophysics (although, that's actually the brain's effective "frequency response", but that's partially derived from the ear's freq response). You were probably cranking it up at the time and the highs were playing a little higher than they otherwise would be. Kaboom. In addition, you may have had the crossover point a little lower than you should have. Oh yeah, I provided a copy of the Fletcher-Munson curve on my website. http://www.geocities.com/audiotechpa...her-munson.gif It essentially consists of "iso-loudness" lines on an intensity vs freq plot. In other words, each line you see corresponds to a constant perceived loudness. As you can see, in order for perceived loudness to remain constant, the intensity does not have to be as high in the 1k-3kHz range as it does at lower frequencies, or even at ultra-high frequencies, which actually contain very little power content in typical music. A lot of program material is already recorded on the bright side, so it's usually unnecessary to try to boost the highs in an attempt to achieve flat response. That's why I never recommend using an SPL meter to tune your system. In fact, I often warn against it because it can adversely influence people. What was the purpose of the capacitor? For protection of the tweeter in the case of the amplifier failing. Any help will be appreciated. I want to run the system actively as I did before, but not at the expense of $200 tweeters. The Dynaudio guy's advice was good. I think your problem was trying to get too much out of the tweeters to compensate for the SPL measurements. If you want bright, you should buy brighter tweeters. Oh and the capacitor was a 20 uF +/- 5% 400VDC. 400v? Overkill, but you don't really lose anything unless you have to go with a polarized cap just to keep the size down. That's a definite no no. Anyway, shoot for a cap with a cutoff frequency just lower than the lowest possible frequency you'd select on the active crossover. |
#5
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Dyns in doors
Tony Fernandes wrote:
In case anyone cares...:-) I just finished putting my Dynaudio system 360 in my Maxima. Man I MISSED these babies!!! The 8s are in the doors behind the stock grills and the mids and tweets are in Q-Logic kick panels. Pics: http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...50_89_full.jpg http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...50_88_full.jpg http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...50_87_full.jpg Tony Looks dope. Probably sounds dope too. How much was the project cost? Im thinking of doing a similar set up in my 97 Suburban. EFFENDI |
#6
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Dyns in doors
Thanks, Mark. I wasn't necessarily trying to get the tweeters "brighter".
In fact, they sounded damn good as is, with just a slight boost. All I was trying to do was fool around with the EQ to get the response flat. That won't happen again it that particular frequency range...especially when I'm running active with an entire dedicated amp channel to power two tiny tweeters. Lesson learned. Another question since you've been so helpful. :-) If I run the system actively again, with the tweeters high-passed, the midrange bandpassed, and the midwoofers low passed, there won't be any way with my current setup to bandpass the midwoofers so they get everything from 70Hz-600Hz. What I did last time was use the amp xover to LP the midwoofers at 600Hz and the EQ to taper the freq off below 70Hz. Problem was when I did this I couldn't use the EQ to tune the sub...so the sub channel went straight from the head unit the amp and was LP at 70Hz. If I ran the Dyns AND the sub through the EQ, there wouldn't be amy way to limit the lower frequencies, which I want to do. I don't know if I provided enough information for you to answer my question. Tony -- What's more likely? That an all-powerful mysterious god created the universe and then decided not to give any proof of his existence? Or, that he simply doesn't exist at all? And that we created him so that we wouldn't have to feel so small and alone. -Eleanor Arroway, Contact "Mark Zarella" wrote in message news They sound frickin' GREAT!! Sometime down the line I may try to angle mount the midwoofers slightly upwards and rearwards...if there's room. I'm also waiting to install my PG EQ232 1/3 order EQ and run the system actively using my PG ZX amps and ditch the passive Dyn xovers. Which brings me to a question. When I had these speakers in my Explorer I was running them actively. Dynaudio suggested I run a capacitor inline with the tweeters. As per their recommendation I purchased some Solen capitors from partsexpress and hooked 'em on to the tweeters. Each set of drivers had their dedicated amp channel, a PG ZX475ti 4-channel driving the tweets and midranges, and half of a PGZX450 4-channel driving the midwoofers (the other half of the ZX450 drove my sub). Anyway, one day I was using my Radio Shack SPL meter & a IASCA test disc to measure the frequency response of the system. I then used the EQ 232 to flatten everything out. I notcied that everything above 10KHz started sloping down considerably so I boosted those frequencies (all the way up to 20KHz) to bring them flat. While doing so I completely arc welded the tweeters. Why did this happen? I "assumed" that flattening the response would not have done any damage. The problem was most likely the fact that we (listeners of somewhat loud audio systems that aren't bass/treble-heads) tend to like a downward sloping frequency response. There are many reasons for this, one key one having to do with the ear's frequency response which can "roughly" be demonstrated in the psychophysics (although, that's actually the brain's effective "frequency response", but that's partially derived from the ear's freq response). You were probably cranking it up at the time and the highs were playing a little higher than they otherwise would be. Kaboom. In addition, you may have had the crossover point a little lower than you should have. Oh yeah, I provided a copy of the Fletcher-Munson curve on my website. http://www.geocities.com/audiotechpa...her-munson.gif It essentially consists of "iso-loudness" lines on an intensity vs freq plot. In other words, each line you see corresponds to a constant perceived loudness. As you can see, in order for perceived loudness to remain constant, the intensity does not have to be as high in the 1k-3kHz range as it does at lower frequencies, or even at ultra-high frequencies, which actually contain very little power content in typical music. A lot of program material is already recorded on the bright side, so it's usually unnecessary to try to boost the highs in an attempt to achieve flat response. That's why I never recommend using an SPL meter to tune your system. In fact, I often warn against it because it can adversely influence people. What was the purpose of the capacitor? For protection of the tweeter in the case of the amplifier failing. Any help will be appreciated. I want to run the system actively as I did before, but not at the expense of $200 tweeters. The Dynaudio guy's advice was good. I think your problem was trying to get too much out of the tweeters to compensate for the SPL measurements. If you want bright, you should buy brighter tweeters. Oh and the capacitor was a 20 uF +/- 5% 400VDC. 400v? Overkill, but you don't really lose anything unless you have to go with a polarized cap just to keep the size down. That's a definite no no. Anyway, shoot for a cap with a cutoff frequency just lower than the lowest possible frequency you'd select on the active crossover. |
#7
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Dyns in doors
EFFENDI wrote: "Looks dope. Probably sounds dope too. How much was the
project cost? Im thinking of doing a similar set up in my 97 Suburban." Thanks. Let's see...I think I paid around $900 for Dyns and $170 for the kicks. If you consider the doors were already damped, then the only other costs would be MDF for the baffles, speaker wire, screws & silicone and other misc stuff. Tony -- What's more likely? That an all-powerful mysterious god created the universe and then decided not to give any proof of his existence? Or, that he simply doesn't exist at all? And that we created him so that we wouldn't have to feel so small and alone. -Eleanor Arroway, Contact "EFFENDI" wrote in message ... Tony Fernandes wrote: In case anyone cares...:-) I just finished putting my Dynaudio system 360 in my Maxima. Man I MISSED these babies!!! The 8s are in the doors behind the stock grills and the mids and tweets are in Q-Logic kick panels. Pics: http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...50_89_full.jpg http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...50_88_full.jpg http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...50_87_full.jpg Tony Looks dope. Probably sounds dope too. How much was the project cost? Im thinking of doing a similar set up in my 97 Suburban. EFFENDI |
#8
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Dyns in doors
Thanks, Mark. I wasn't necessarily trying to get the tweeters "brighter".
In fact, they sounded damn good as is, with just a slight boost. All I was trying to do was fool around with the EQ to get the response flat. That won't happen again it that particular frequency range...especially when I'm running active with an entire dedicated amp channel to power two tiny tweeters. Lesson learned. Another question since you've been so helpful. :-) If I run the system actively again, with the tweeters high-passed, the midrange bandpassed, and the midwoofers low passed, there won't be any way with my current setup to bandpass the midwoofers so they get everything from 70Hz-600Hz. What I did last time was use the amp xover to LP the midwoofers at 600Hz and the EQ to taper the freq off below 70Hz. Problem was when I did this I couldn't use the EQ to tune the sub...so the sub channel went straight from the head unit the amp and was LP at 70Hz. If I ran the Dyns AND the sub through the EQ, there wouldn't be amy way to limit the lower frequencies, which I want to do. I don't know if I provided enough information for you to answer my question. Short of buying a different amp for the woofers, you could add an active crossover just to provide that high-pass. Otherwise, I thinkn the best option would be to bypass EQ control of the sub. Since the sub plays just narrowband anyway, you usually only have about 2 EQ bands to play with on the sub anyway. As long as you still have a sub level control somewhere, it shouldn't be a big difference. |
#9
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Dyns in doors
Mark Zarella wrote: "Otherwise, I thinkn the best option would be to bypass
EQ control of the sub. Since the sub plays just narrowband anyway, you usually only have about 2 EQ bands to play with on the sub anyway. As long as you still have a sub level control somewhere, it shouldn't be a big difference." Yes, bypassing the sub seemed to be the easiest method. And the AP box seems pretty well tuned anyway. And yes, I have the LPL sub controller in the dash. Thanks again. Tony -- What's more likely? That an all-powerful mysterious god created the universe and then decided not to give any proof of his existence? Or, that he simply doesn't exist at all? And that we created him so that we wouldn't have to feel so small and alone. -Eleanor Arroway, Contact "Mark Zarella" wrote in message ... Thanks, Mark. I wasn't necessarily trying to get the tweeters "brighter". In fact, they sounded damn good as is, with just a slight boost. All I was trying to do was fool around with the EQ to get the response flat. That won't happen again it that particular frequency range...especially when I'm running active with an entire dedicated amp channel to power two tiny tweeters. Lesson learned. Another question since you've been so helpful. :-) If I run the system actively again, with the tweeters high-passed, the midrange bandpassed, and the midwoofers low passed, there won't be any way with my current setup to bandpass the midwoofers so they get everything from 70Hz-600Hz. What I did last time was use the amp xover to LP the midwoofers at 600Hz and the EQ to taper the freq off below 70Hz. Problem was when I did this I couldn't use the EQ to tune the sub...so the sub channel went straight from the head unit the amp and was LP at 70Hz. If I ran the Dyns AND the sub through the EQ, there wouldn't be amy way to limit the lower frequencies, which I want to do. I don't know if I provided enough information for you to answer my question. Short of buying a different amp for the woofers, you could add an active crossover just to provide that high-pass. Otherwise, I thinkn the best option would be to bypass EQ control of the sub. Since the sub plays just narrowband anyway, you usually only have about 2 EQ bands to play with on the sub anyway. As long as you still have a sub level control somewhere, it shouldn't be a big difference. |
#10
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Dyns in doors
I then used the EQ 232 to flatten everything out. I notcied that
everything above 10KHz started sloping down considerably so I boosted those frequencies (all the way up to 20KHz) to bring them flat. While doing so I completely arc welded the tweeters. Why did this happen? I "assumed" that flattening the response would not have done any damage. What was the purpose of the capacitor? The purpose of the capacitor is to act as a first order (6dB/octave slope) crossover. Essentially, for a 4 ohm tweeter, the 20 uF capacitor you placed inline with the tweeter acted as a crossover at 2000 Hz (relatively low). For a 8 ohm tweeter this crossover frequency would be even lower. If this is the only protection your tweeters had against low frequencies, then it's not hard to see why they "welded" themselves. I saw that you mentioned using dynaudio's passive crossover, however, so I am working now under the assumption that you are using that. If you did disconnect the passive crossovers then you should definitely invest in a active crossover to go before your amp for your high's and mid's. If you are in fact using the passive crossovers, then adding the 20uF capacitor in line with the tweeter would alter the characteristics of the capacitor. Assuming you did put it on the positive terminal, the added capacitance would do one of two things to the passive crossover. #1 If the original crossover was a 2nd order, then the addition of the extra capacitor would in fact make the passive crossover into a 3rd order crossover. The problem with this is that the newly made 3rd order crossover would actually have a lower crossover frequency. To what degree it would be lower depends alot on what frequency it was crossed over at and what the impedance of the speaker is at the crossover frequency. Translation: adding the extra capacitor may have actually lowered the crossover frequency of the original passive crossover and doing so caused the tweeter to overheat due to the extra low frequencies passing through the crossover. #2 If the original crossover was a 3rd or 4th order then the added capacitor would have actually raised the crossover frequency, which would not cause any adverse power handling effects, but might not sound the best. In this case, however, there is little to explain the failure of the tweeter. If none of this makes sense, or if you have other questions email me at gte768u(at)mail(dot)gatech(dot)edu Oh and if you respond back, please include a detailed description of the tweeters and amp setup. Specifically, the impedance of the tweeters and the order of the passive crossovers that you had. |
#11
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Dyns in doors
The purpose of the capacitor is to act as a first order (6dB/octave slope)
crossover. Essentially, for a 4 ohm tweeter, the 20 uF capacitor you placed inline with the tweeter acted as a crossover at 2000 Hz (relatively low). He said he ran them with active xovers in addition though. |
#12
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Dyns in doors
Thanks for the response, Dave. Yes...as Mark said, I ran them actively. I
can't remember what frequency I crossed them over at...I'm guessing somewhere close to 5KHz. The amp was a Phoenix Gold ZX 475ti which is rated at 75W per channel. Its xovers are 24dB/octave...compared to 6dB/octave with the passives. According to Dynaudio, the tweeter's nominal long term power handling was 100W (crossover dependent, whatever that means) with a transient handling of 500W (for 10ms). The tweeter is 4 ohms. Anyway, if I understand correctly the capacitor strictly acted as protection from amp failure, not as a crossover. I have to admit I am extremely uneducated in this department. I still don't know exactly why it blew, but it won't deter me from running the system actively again. The difference is phenomenal. I just won't play around with the tweeter levels that dramatically again! Tony -- What's more likely? That an all-powerful mysterious god created the universe and then decided not to give any proof of his existence? Or, that he simply doesn't exist at all? And that we created him so that we wouldn't have to feel so small and alone. -Eleanor Arroway, Contact "David Malphurs" wrote in message ... I then used the EQ 232 to flatten everything out. I notcied that everything above 10KHz started sloping down considerably so I boosted those frequencies (all the way up to 20KHz) to bring them flat. While doing so I completely arc welded the tweeters. Why did this happen? I "assumed" that flattening the response would not have done any damage. What was the purpose of the capacitor? The purpose of the capacitor is to act as a first order (6dB/octave slope) crossover. Essentially, for a 4 ohm tweeter, the 20 uF capacitor you placed inline with the tweeter acted as a crossover at 2000 Hz (relatively low). For a 8 ohm tweeter this crossover frequency would be even lower. If this is the only protection your tweeters had against low frequencies, then it's not hard to see why they "welded" themselves. I saw that you mentioned using dynaudio's passive crossover, however, so I am working now under the assumption that you are using that. If you did disconnect the passive crossovers then you should definitely invest in a active crossover to go before your amp for your high's and mid's. If you are in fact using the passive crossovers, then adding the 20uF capacitor in line with the tweeter would alter the characteristics of the capacitor. Assuming you did put it on the positive terminal, the added capacitance would do one of two things to the passive crossover. #1 If the original crossover was a 2nd order, then the addition of the extra capacitor would in fact make the passive crossover into a 3rd order crossover. The problem with this is that the newly made 3rd order crossover would actually have a lower crossover frequency. To what degree it would be lower depends alot on what frequency it was crossed over at and what the impedance of the speaker is at the crossover frequency. Translation: adding the extra capacitor may have actually lowered the crossover frequency of the original passive crossover and doing so caused the tweeter to overheat due to the extra low frequencies passing through the crossover. #2 If the original crossover was a 3rd or 4th order then the added capacitor would have actually raised the crossover frequency, which would not cause any adverse power handling effects, but might not sound the best. In this case, however, there is little to explain the failure of the tweeter. If none of this makes sense, or if you have other questions email me at gte768u(at)mail(dot)gatech(dot)edu Oh and if you respond back, please include a detailed description of the tweeters and amp setup. Specifically, the impedance of the tweeters and the order of the passive crossovers that you had. |
#13
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Dyns in doors
According to Dynaudio, the tweeter's nominal long term
power handling was 100W (crossover dependent, whatever that means) with a transient handling of 500W (for 10ms). The tweeter is 4 ohms. The problem is that it's not even close to that. They're quoting the amplifier size to use when using passive xovers. It's a common practice. I still don't know exactly why it blew, Too much power. |
#14
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Dyns in doors
why would using a passive crossover make it handle more power? I was always
told inline capacitors made little difference in terms of power output and that the amp would still put the rated watts into the speaker. But after reading thse posts I got thinking does a passive crossover work somehow by altering the impedance drastically below the crossover point?Therefor the amp only sees the 4 ohms at above the crossover point and anything below is so high in impedance that the amp doesnt put hardly any power out at those frequencies?If thats the case then that would make sense in assuming what I heard earlier kind of.Meaning run a passive crossover inline with a speaker thats rated at 100W RMS the amp really wouldnt be putting out a full 100W RMS as rated since the cap raises the impedance so high the amp puts out much less power so the only time it might ever see a 100W sound is above the crossover frequencys which the tweeter is supposed to be designed to handle. Is this correct or am I totally off base in my thinking? Trying to learn something wicked1 "Mark Zarella" wrote in message ... According to Dynaudio, the tweeter's nominal long term power handling was 100W (crossover dependent, whatever that means) with a transient handling of 500W (for 10ms). The tweeter is 4 ohms. The problem is that it's not even close to that. They're quoting the amplifier size to use when using passive xovers. It's a common practice. I still don't know exactly why it blew, Too much power. |
#15
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Dyns in doors
why would using a passive crossover make it handle more power?
Because the crossover serves to limit power content to a speaker in the frequency band that you've filtered out (that's what a filter is). If you have a 100 watt amp and you're limiting the signal to 3kHz and up, then you're drastically reducing the power going to the tweeter. I was always told inline capacitors made little difference in terms of power output and that the amp would still put the rated watts into the speaker. Nope. You're increasing the impedance (in certain freq bands) by using a passive filter. But after reading thse posts I got thinking does a passive crossover work somehow by altering the impedance drastically below the crossover point?Therefor the amp only sees the 4 ohms at above the crossover point and anything below is so high in impedance that the amp doesnt put hardly any power out at those frequencies?If thats the case then that would make sense in assuming what I heard earlier kind of.Meaning run a passive crossover inline with a speaker thats rated at 100W RMS the amp really wouldnt be putting out a full 100W RMS as rated since the cap raises the impedance so high the amp puts out much less power so the only time it might ever see a 100W sound is above the crossover frequencys which the tweeter is supposed to be designed to handle. Is this correct or am I totally off base in my thinking? Trying to learn something That's exactly right. |
#16
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Dyns in doors
WOW I fugured something out today! I have been wondering about that one for
a while when I ran active crossovers to my R4's and they actually didnt take as much power as with the "bass blocker" caps. Makes total sense now.I love newsgroups "Mark Zarella" wrote in message ... why would using a passive crossover make it handle more power? Because the crossover serves to limit power content to a speaker in the frequency band that you've filtered out (that's what a filter is). If you have a 100 watt amp and you're limiting the signal to 3kHz and up, then you're drastically reducing the power going to the tweeter. I was always told inline capacitors made little difference in terms of power output and that the amp would still put the rated watts into the speaker. Nope. You're increasing the impedance (in certain freq bands) by using a passive filter. But after reading thse posts I got thinking does a passive crossover work somehow by altering the impedance drastically below the crossover point?Therefor the amp only sees the 4 ohms at above the crossover point and anything below is so high in impedance that the amp doesnt put hardly any power out at those frequencies?If thats the case then that would make sense in assuming what I heard earlier kind of.Meaning run a passive crossover inline with a speaker thats rated at 100W RMS the amp really wouldnt be putting out a full 100W RMS as rated since the cap raises the impedance so high the amp puts out much less power so the only time it might ever see a 100W sound is above the crossover frequencys which the tweeter is supposed to be designed to handle. Is this correct or am I totally off base in my thinking? Trying to learn something That's exactly right. |
#17
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Dyns in doors
Hi Tony, Actually, it's simpler than that. I have the equivalent of a Dyn 340 set and was tossing around the idea of tri-amping it. I bounced it off of Peter Lufrano and he said that adding a capacitor would avoid problems that the Dynaudios have with DC on their inputs. Many amps have a little DC on their outputs... especially amps that don't have very strict quality control. Putting a crossover between the amp and speaker kills the possibility of DC... that's why you have to choose a cap that's below your crossover value... you don't really need the extra xover slope, you really need the DC protection. smiles, Jamie In article , Tony Fernandes wrote: Anyway, if I understand correctly the capacitor strictly acted as protection from amp failure, not as a crossover. I have to admit I am extremely uneducated in this department. |
#18
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Dyns in doors
Hi Tony,
Actually, it's simpler than that. I have the equivalent of a Dyn 340 set and was tossing around the idea of tri-amping it. I bounced it off of Peter Lufrano and he said that adding a capacitor would avoid problems that the Dynaudios have with DC on their inputs. Many amps have a little DC on their outputs... especially amps that don't have very strict quality control. It's minor. On the order of 10mV. That's equivalent to roughly 2.5 milliwatts dissipated by a 4 ohm speaker. If the amp gets screwed up though, it can be much more than this. But Dynaudio is no more prone to failure from it than any other speaker. |
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