I have a 7 year old pair of NHT 2.5i's that I drive with my trusty 13 yr old
Carver TFM-15. For 7 years these two have given me wonderful music
reproduction. Have had numerous digital sources and pre-amps.

This morning after about 1 hour of quiet FM radio listening the Carver
"shut-down". Lights and all. I turned off all components and re-started
in sequential order. Within 5 minutes it shut-down again. My wide says
she heard a subtle "pop". So I check all connections and main fuse. No
probs. No excessive heat or smell. Aside from shut down, music sounded
perfect. No audible issues. I disconnect speaker's connections and
post-jumper (did not run in bi-amp mode) and get out the FLUKE. Low-freq
posts registers 5.5 ohms (spec) both channels. Hi-freq posts (+ -) it
registers "OL" (open circuit). Both R and L are same.

Anybody have any ideas? Why are hi-freq inputs at OL?

(Addl' Background: For 2 years had a 2nd TFM-15cb bi-amping the 2.5i's. It
was connected to hi-freq inputs. It began to introduce static and noise.
Then it "shut-down" as above. Removed 1 year ago, went back to single amp
and all was good...until now.)

TIA for any help !

Sounds like the amp has a problem, probably not the speakers, though they
and the wires should probably be checked and corrected as necessary.

Mark Z.

--
Please reply only to Group. I regret this is necessary. Viruses and spam
have rendered my regular e-mail address useless.


"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
m...
I have a 7 year old pair of NHT 2.5i's that I drive with my trusty 13 yr
old
Carver TFM-15. For 7 years these two have given me wonderful music
reproduction. Have had numerous digital sources and pre-amps.

This morning after about 1 hour of quiet FM radio listening the Carver
"shut-down". Lights and all. I turned off all components and re-started
in sequential order. Within 5 minutes it shut-down again. My wide says
she heard a subtle "pop". So I check all connections and main fuse. No
probs. No excessive heat or smell. Aside from shut down, music sounded
perfect. No audible issues. I disconnect speaker's connections and
post-jumper (did not run in bi-amp mode) and get out the FLUKE. Low-freq
posts registers 5.5 ohms (spec) both channels. Hi-freq posts (+ -) it
registers "OL" (open circuit). Both R and L are same.

Anybody have any ideas? Why are hi-freq inputs at OL?

(Addl' Background: For 2 years had a 2nd TFM-15cb bi-amping the 2.5i's.
It
was connected to hi-freq inputs. It began to introduce static and noise.
Then it "shut-down" as above. Removed 1 year ago, went back to single amp
and all was good...until now.)

TIA for any help !

Sounds like the amp has a problem, probably not the speakers, though they
and the wires should probably be checked and corrected as necessary.

Mark Z.

--
Please reply only to Group. I regret this is necessary. Viruses and spam
have rendered my regular e-mail address useless.


"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
m...
I have a 7 year old pair of NHT 2.5i's that I drive with my trusty 13 yr
old
Carver TFM-15. For 7 years these two have given me wonderful music
reproduction. Have had numerous digital sources and pre-amps.

This morning after about 1 hour of quiet FM radio listening the Carver
"shut-down". Lights and all. I turned off all components and re-started
in sequential order. Within 5 minutes it shut-down again. My wide says
she heard a subtle "pop". So I check all connections and main fuse. No
probs. No excessive heat or smell. Aside from shut down, music sounded
perfect. No audible issues. I disconnect speaker's connections and
post-jumper (did not run in bi-amp mode) and get out the FLUKE. Low-freq
posts registers 5.5 ohms (spec) both channels. Hi-freq posts (+ -) it
registers "OL" (open circuit). Both R and L are same.

Anybody have any ideas? Why are hi-freq inputs at OL?

(Addl' Background: For 2 years had a 2nd TFM-15cb bi-amping the 2.5i's.
It
was connected to hi-freq inputs. It began to introduce static and noise.
Then it "shut-down" as above. Removed 1 year ago, went back to single amp
and all was good...until now.)

TIA for any help !

Sounds like the amp has a problem, probably not the speakers, though they
and the wires should probably be checked and corrected as necessary.

Mark Z.

--
Please reply only to Group. I regret this is necessary. Viruses and spam
have rendered my regular e-mail address useless.


"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
m...
I have a 7 year old pair of NHT 2.5i's that I drive with my trusty 13 yr
old
Carver TFM-15. For 7 years these two have given me wonderful music
reproduction. Have had numerous digital sources and pre-amps.

This morning after about 1 hour of quiet FM radio listening the Carver
"shut-down". Lights and all. I turned off all components and re-started
in sequential order. Within 5 minutes it shut-down again. My wide says
she heard a subtle "pop". So I check all connections and main fuse. No
probs. No excessive heat or smell. Aside from shut down, music sounded
perfect. No audible issues. I disconnect speaker's connections and
post-jumper (did not run in bi-amp mode) and get out the FLUKE. Low-freq
posts registers 5.5 ohms (spec) both channels. Hi-freq posts (+ -) it
registers "OL" (open circuit). Both R and L are same.

Anybody have any ideas? Why are hi-freq inputs at OL?

(Addl' Background: For 2 years had a 2nd TFM-15cb bi-amping the 2.5i's.
It
was connected to hi-freq inputs. It began to introduce static and noise.
Then it "shut-down" as above. Removed 1 year ago, went back to single amp
and all was good...until now.)

TIA for any help !

Sounds like the amp has a problem, probably not the speakers, though they
and the wires should probably be checked and corrected as necessary.

Mark Z.

--
Please reply only to Group. I regret this is necessary. Viruses and spam
have rendered my regular e-mail address useless.


"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
m...
I have a 7 year old pair of NHT 2.5i's that I drive with my trusty 13 yr
old
Carver TFM-15. For 7 years these two have given me wonderful music
reproduction. Have had numerous digital sources and pre-amps.

This morning after about 1 hour of quiet FM radio listening the Carver
"shut-down". Lights and all. I turned off all components and re-started
in sequential order. Within 5 minutes it shut-down again. My wide says
she heard a subtle "pop". So I check all connections and main fuse. No
probs. No excessive heat or smell. Aside from shut down, music sounded
perfect. No audible issues. I disconnect speaker's connections and
post-jumper (did not run in bi-amp mode) and get out the FLUKE. Low-freq
posts registers 5.5 ohms (spec) both channels. Hi-freq posts (+ -) it
registers "OL" (open circuit). Both R and L are same.

Anybody have any ideas? Why are hi-freq inputs at OL?

(Addl' Background: For 2 years had a 2nd TFM-15cb bi-amping the 2.5i's.
It
was connected to hi-freq inputs. It began to introduce static and noise.
Then it "shut-down" as above. Removed 1 year ago, went back to single amp
and all was good...until now.)

TIA for any help !

"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
m
I have a 7 year old pair of NHT 2.5i's that I drive with my trusty 13
yr old Carver TFM-15. For 7 years these two have given me wonderful
music reproduction. Have had numerous digital sources and pre-amps.

This morning after about 1 hour of quiet FM radio listening the Carver
"shut-down". Lights and all. I turned off all components and
re-started in sequential order. Within 5 minutes it shut-down again.
My wide says she heard a subtle "pop".

The pop would be probably due to the amp shutting down.

Sounds like you have a sick amp.

So I check all connections
and main fuse. No probs. No excessive heat or smell. Aside from
shut down, music sounded perfect. No audible issues. I disconnect
speaker's connections and post-jumper (did not run in bi-amp mode)
and get out the FLUKE. Low-freq posts registers 5.5 ohms (spec) both
channels. Hi-freq posts (+ -) it registers "OL" (open circuit).
Both R and L are same.

Sounds about right. There's usually a capacitor in series with the tweeters,
and this means that the tweeter terminals will read open circuit. Proof of
pudding - is there any treble when you drive the speakers with another
amplifier? Is there any trouble?

Anybody have any ideas? Why are hi-freq inputs at OL?

Because there is a crossover capacitor in series with the tweeter. It acts
as a high pass filter, dropping off the bass.

(Addl' Background: For 2 years had a 2nd TFM-15cb bi-amping the
2.5i's. It was connected to hi-freq inputs. It began to introduce
static and noise. Then it "shut-down" as above. Removed 1 year ago,
went back to single amp and all was good...until now.)

Sounds like you've discovered the end-of-life behavior of this particular
Carver amp.

"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
m
I have a 7 year old pair of NHT 2.5i's that I drive with my trusty 13
yr old Carver TFM-15. For 7 years these two have given me wonderful
music reproduction. Have had numerous digital sources and pre-amps.

This morning after about 1 hour of quiet FM radio listening the Carver
"shut-down". Lights and all. I turned off all components and
re-started in sequential order. Within 5 minutes it shut-down again.
My wide says she heard a subtle "pop".

The pop would be probably due to the amp shutting down.

Sounds like you have a sick amp.

So I check all connections
and main fuse. No probs. No excessive heat or smell. Aside from
shut down, music sounded perfect. No audible issues. I disconnect
speaker's connections and post-jumper (did not run in bi-amp mode)
and get out the FLUKE. Low-freq posts registers 5.5 ohms (spec) both
channels. Hi-freq posts (+ -) it registers "OL" (open circuit).
Both R and L are same.

Sounds about right. There's usually a capacitor in series with the tweeters,
and this means that the tweeter terminals will read open circuit. Proof of
pudding - is there any treble when you drive the speakers with another
amplifier? Is there any trouble?

Anybody have any ideas? Why are hi-freq inputs at OL?

Because there is a crossover capacitor in series with the tweeter. It acts
as a high pass filter, dropping off the bass.

(Addl' Background: For 2 years had a 2nd TFM-15cb bi-amping the
2.5i's. It was connected to hi-freq inputs. It began to introduce
static and noise. Then it "shut-down" as above. Removed 1 year ago,
went back to single amp and all was good...until now.)

Sounds like you've discovered the end-of-life behavior of this particular
Carver amp.

"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
m
I have a 7 year old pair of NHT 2.5i's that I drive with my trusty 13
yr old Carver TFM-15. For 7 years these two have given me wonderful
music reproduction. Have had numerous digital sources and pre-amps.

This morning after about 1 hour of quiet FM radio listening the Carver
"shut-down". Lights and all. I turned off all components and
re-started in sequential order. Within 5 minutes it shut-down again.
My wide says she heard a subtle "pop".

The pop would be probably due to the amp shutting down.

Sounds like you have a sick amp.

So I check all connections
and main fuse. No probs. No excessive heat or smell. Aside from
shut down, music sounded perfect. No audible issues. I disconnect
speaker's connections and post-jumper (did not run in bi-amp mode)
and get out the FLUKE. Low-freq posts registers 5.5 ohms (spec) both
channels. Hi-freq posts (+ -) it registers "OL" (open circuit).
Both R and L are same.

Sounds about right. There's usually a capacitor in series with the tweeters,
and this means that the tweeter terminals will read open circuit. Proof of
pudding - is there any treble when you drive the speakers with another
amplifier? Is there any trouble?

Anybody have any ideas? Why are hi-freq inputs at OL?

Because there is a crossover capacitor in series with the tweeter. It acts
as a high pass filter, dropping off the bass.

(Addl' Background: For 2 years had a 2nd TFM-15cb bi-amping the
2.5i's. It was connected to hi-freq inputs. It began to introduce
static and noise. Then it "shut-down" as above. Removed 1 year ago,
went back to single amp and all was good...until now.)

Sounds like you've discovered the end-of-life behavior of this particular
Carver amp.

"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
m
I have a 7 year old pair of NHT 2.5i's that I drive with my trusty 13
yr old Carver TFM-15. For 7 years these two have given me wonderful
music reproduction. Have had numerous digital sources and pre-amps.

This morning after about 1 hour of quiet FM radio listening the Carver
"shut-down". Lights and all. I turned off all components and
re-started in sequential order. Within 5 minutes it shut-down again.
My wide says she heard a subtle "pop".

The pop would be probably due to the amp shutting down.

Sounds like you have a sick amp.

So I check all connections
and main fuse. No probs. No excessive heat or smell. Aside from
shut down, music sounded perfect. No audible issues. I disconnect
speaker's connections and post-jumper (did not run in bi-amp mode)
and get out the FLUKE. Low-freq posts registers 5.5 ohms (spec) both
channels. Hi-freq posts (+ -) it registers "OL" (open circuit).
Both R and L are same.

Sounds about right. There's usually a capacitor in series with the tweeters,
and this means that the tweeter terminals will read open circuit. Proof of
pudding - is there any treble when you drive the speakers with another
amplifier? Is there any trouble?

Anybody have any ideas? Why are hi-freq inputs at OL?

Because there is a crossover capacitor in series with the tweeter. It acts
as a high pass filter, dropping off the bass.

(Addl' Background: For 2 years had a 2nd TFM-15cb bi-amping the
2.5i's. It was connected to hi-freq inputs. It began to introduce
static and noise. Then it "shut-down" as above. Removed 1 year ago,
went back to single amp and all was good...until now.)

Sounds like you've discovered the end-of-life behavior of this particular
Carver amp.

Thanks for input Arny. I ran this by one of the senior engineering guys at
work. He asked if my grid power was dirty. I thought about it and sure
enough, my lights are occasionally dimming/flickering. He thinks power amps
really take brunt of these sags and surges.

He said before I go and drop a couple grand on new equipment to look into a
double-conversion AC-DC-AC UPS system dedicated to my hi-fi rig (1.5KVA
Powerware or GE). Called it a 120V "firewall".

Have you heard good/bad on the dedicated double-conv UPS idea?

thanks
"Arny Krueger" wrote in message
...
"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
m
I have a 7 year old pair of NHT 2.5i's that I drive with my trusty 13
yr old Carver TFM-15. For 7 years these two have given me wonderful
music reproduction. Have had numerous digital sources and pre-amps.

This morning after about 1 hour of quiet FM radio listening the Carver
"shut-down". Lights and all. I turned off all components and
re-started in sequential order. Within 5 minutes it shut-down again.
My wide says she heard a subtle "pop".

The pop would be probably due to the amp shutting down.

Sounds like you have a sick amp.

So I check all connections
and main fuse. No probs. No excessive heat or smell. Aside from
shut down, music sounded perfect. No audible issues. I disconnect
speaker's connections and post-jumper (did not run in bi-amp mode)
and get out the FLUKE. Low-freq posts registers 5.5 ohms (spec) both
channels. Hi-freq posts (+ -) it registers "OL" (open circuit).
Both R and L are same.

Sounds about right. There's usually a capacitor in series with the
tweeters,
and this means that the tweeter terminals will read open circuit. Proof of
pudding - is there any treble when you drive the speakers with another
amplifier? Is there any trouble?

Anybody have any ideas? Why are hi-freq inputs at OL?

Because there is a crossover capacitor in series with the tweeter. It acts
as a high pass filter, dropping off the bass.

(Addl' Background: For 2 years had a 2nd TFM-15cb bi-amping the
2.5i's. It was connected to hi-freq inputs. It began to introduce
static and noise. Then it "shut-down" as above. Removed 1 year ago,
went back to single amp and all was good...until now.)

Sounds like you've discovered the end-of-life behavior of this particular
Carver amp.

Thanks for input Arny. I ran this by one of the senior engineering guys at
work. He asked if my grid power was dirty. I thought about it and sure
enough, my lights are occasionally dimming/flickering. He thinks power amps
really take brunt of these sags and surges.

He said before I go and drop a couple grand on new equipment to look into a
double-conversion AC-DC-AC UPS system dedicated to my hi-fi rig (1.5KVA
Powerware or GE). Called it a 120V "firewall".

Have you heard good/bad on the dedicated double-conv UPS idea?

thanks
"Arny Krueger" wrote in message
...
"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
m
I have a 7 year old pair of NHT 2.5i's that I drive with my trusty 13
yr old Carver TFM-15. For 7 years these two have given me wonderful
music reproduction. Have had numerous digital sources and pre-amps.

This morning after about 1 hour of quiet FM radio listening the Carver
"shut-down". Lights and all. I turned off all components and
re-started in sequential order. Within 5 minutes it shut-down again.
My wide says she heard a subtle "pop".

The pop would be probably due to the amp shutting down.

Sounds like you have a sick amp.

So I check all connections
and main fuse. No probs. No excessive heat or smell. Aside from
shut down, music sounded perfect. No audible issues. I disconnect
speaker's connections and post-jumper (did not run in bi-amp mode)
and get out the FLUKE. Low-freq posts registers 5.5 ohms (spec) both
channels. Hi-freq posts (+ -) it registers "OL" (open circuit).
Both R and L are same.

Sounds about right. There's usually a capacitor in series with the
tweeters,
and this means that the tweeter terminals will read open circuit. Proof of
pudding - is there any treble when you drive the speakers with another
amplifier? Is there any trouble?

Anybody have any ideas? Why are hi-freq inputs at OL?

Because there is a crossover capacitor in series with the tweeter. It acts
as a high pass filter, dropping off the bass.

(Addl' Background: For 2 years had a 2nd TFM-15cb bi-amping the
2.5i's. It was connected to hi-freq inputs. It began to introduce
static and noise. Then it "shut-down" as above. Removed 1 year ago,
went back to single amp and all was good...until now.)

Sounds like you've discovered the end-of-life behavior of this particular
Carver amp.

Thanks for input Arny. I ran this by one of the senior engineering guys at
work. He asked if my grid power was dirty. I thought about it and sure
enough, my lights are occasionally dimming/flickering. He thinks power amps
really take brunt of these sags and surges.

He said before I go and drop a couple grand on new equipment to look into a
double-conversion AC-DC-AC UPS system dedicated to my hi-fi rig (1.5KVA
Powerware or GE). Called it a 120V "firewall".

Have you heard good/bad on the dedicated double-conv UPS idea?

thanks
"Arny Krueger" wrote in message
...
"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
m
I have a 7 year old pair of NHT 2.5i's that I drive with my trusty 13
yr old Carver TFM-15. For 7 years these two have given me wonderful
music reproduction. Have had numerous digital sources and pre-amps.

This morning after about 1 hour of quiet FM radio listening the Carver
"shut-down". Lights and all. I turned off all components and
re-started in sequential order. Within 5 minutes it shut-down again.
My wide says she heard a subtle "pop".

The pop would be probably due to the amp shutting down.

Sounds like you have a sick amp.

So I check all connections
and main fuse. No probs. No excessive heat or smell. Aside from
shut down, music sounded perfect. No audible issues. I disconnect
speaker's connections and post-jumper (did not run in bi-amp mode)
and get out the FLUKE. Low-freq posts registers 5.5 ohms (spec) both
channels. Hi-freq posts (+ -) it registers "OL" (open circuit).
Both R and L are same.

Sounds about right. There's usually a capacitor in series with the
tweeters,
and this means that the tweeter terminals will read open circuit. Proof of
pudding - is there any treble when you drive the speakers with another
amplifier? Is there any trouble?

Anybody have any ideas? Why are hi-freq inputs at OL?

Because there is a crossover capacitor in series with the tweeter. It acts
as a high pass filter, dropping off the bass.

(Addl' Background: For 2 years had a 2nd TFM-15cb bi-amping the
2.5i's. It was connected to hi-freq inputs. It began to introduce
static and noise. Then it "shut-down" as above. Removed 1 year ago,
went back to single amp and all was good...until now.)

Sounds like you've discovered the end-of-life behavior of this particular
Carver amp.

Thanks for input Arny. I ran this by one of the senior engineering guys at
work. He asked if my grid power was dirty. I thought about it and sure
enough, my lights are occasionally dimming/flickering. He thinks power amps
really take brunt of these sags and surges.

He said before I go and drop a couple grand on new equipment to look into a
double-conversion AC-DC-AC UPS system dedicated to my hi-fi rig (1.5KVA
Powerware or GE). Called it a 120V "firewall".

Have you heard good/bad on the dedicated double-conv UPS idea?

thanks
"Arny Krueger" wrote in message
...
"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
m
I have a 7 year old pair of NHT 2.5i's that I drive with my trusty 13
yr old Carver TFM-15. For 7 years these two have given me wonderful
music reproduction. Have had numerous digital sources and pre-amps.

This morning after about 1 hour of quiet FM radio listening the Carver
"shut-down". Lights and all. I turned off all components and
re-started in sequential order. Within 5 minutes it shut-down again.
My wide says she heard a subtle "pop".

The pop would be probably due to the amp shutting down.

Sounds like you have a sick amp.

So I check all connections
and main fuse. No probs. No excessive heat or smell. Aside from
shut down, music sounded perfect. No audible issues. I disconnect
speaker's connections and post-jumper (did not run in bi-amp mode)
and get out the FLUKE. Low-freq posts registers 5.5 ohms (spec) both
channels. Hi-freq posts (+ -) it registers "OL" (open circuit).
Both R and L are same.

Sounds about right. There's usually a capacitor in series with the
tweeters,
and this means that the tweeter terminals will read open circuit. Proof of
pudding - is there any treble when you drive the speakers with another
amplifier? Is there any trouble?

Anybody have any ideas? Why are hi-freq inputs at OL?

Because there is a crossover capacitor in series with the tweeter. It acts
as a high pass filter, dropping off the bass.

(Addl' Background: For 2 years had a 2nd TFM-15cb bi-amping the
2.5i's. It was connected to hi-freq inputs. It began to introduce
static and noise. Then it "shut-down" as above. Removed 1 year ago,
went back to single amp and all was good...until now.)

Sounds like you've discovered the end-of-life behavior of this particular
Carver amp.

thanks...i have a feeling I need a new amp. My trusty Carvers have kicked
the bucket!

"Mark D. Zacharias" wrote in message
...
Sounds like the amp has a problem, probably not the speakers, though they
and the wires should probably be checked and corrected as necessary.

Mark Z.

--
Please reply only to Group. I regret this is necessary. Viruses and spam
have rendered my regular e-mail address useless.


"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
m...
I have a 7 year old pair of NHT 2.5i's that I drive with my trusty 13 yr
old
Carver TFM-15. For 7 years these two have given me wonderful music
reproduction. Have had numerous digital sources and pre-amps.

This morning after about 1 hour of quiet FM radio listening the Carver
"shut-down". Lights and all. I turned off all components and
re-started
in sequential order. Within 5 minutes it shut-down again. My wide
says
she heard a subtle "pop". So I check all connections and main fuse.
No
probs. No excessive heat or smell. Aside from shut down, music sounded
perfect. No audible issues. I disconnect speaker's connections and
post-jumper (did not run in bi-amp mode) and get out the FLUKE.
Low-freq
posts registers 5.5 ohms (spec) both channels. Hi-freq posts (+ -) it
registers "OL" (open circuit). Both R and L are same.

Anybody have any ideas? Why are hi-freq inputs at OL?

(Addl' Background: For 2 years had a 2nd TFM-15cb bi-amping the 2.5i's.
It
was connected to hi-freq inputs. It began to introduce static and
noise.
Then it "shut-down" as above. Removed 1 year ago, went back to single
amp
and all was good...until now.)

TIA for any help !

thanks...i have a feeling I need a new amp. My trusty Carvers have kicked
the bucket!

"Mark D. Zacharias" wrote in message
...
Sounds like the amp has a problem, probably not the speakers, though they
and the wires should probably be checked and corrected as necessary.

Mark Z.

--
Please reply only to Group. I regret this is necessary. Viruses and spam
have rendered my regular e-mail address useless.


"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
m...
I have a 7 year old pair of NHT 2.5i's that I drive with my trusty 13 yr
old
Carver TFM-15. For 7 years these two have given me wonderful music
reproduction. Have had numerous digital sources and pre-amps.

This morning after about 1 hour of quiet FM radio listening the Carver
"shut-down". Lights and all. I turned off all components and
re-started
in sequential order. Within 5 minutes it shut-down again. My wide
says
she heard a subtle "pop". So I check all connections and main fuse.
No
probs. No excessive heat or smell. Aside from shut down, music sounded
perfect. No audible issues. I disconnect speaker's connections and
post-jumper (did not run in bi-amp mode) and get out the FLUKE.
Low-freq
posts registers 5.5 ohms (spec) both channels. Hi-freq posts (+ -) it
registers "OL" (open circuit). Both R and L are same.

Anybody have any ideas? Why are hi-freq inputs at OL?

(Addl' Background: For 2 years had a 2nd TFM-15cb bi-amping the 2.5i's.
It
was connected to hi-freq inputs. It began to introduce static and
noise.
Then it "shut-down" as above. Removed 1 year ago, went back to single
amp
and all was good...until now.)

TIA for any help !

thanks...i have a feeling I need a new amp. My trusty Carvers have kicked
the bucket!

"Mark D. Zacharias" wrote in message
...
Sounds like the amp has a problem, probably not the speakers, though they
and the wires should probably be checked and corrected as necessary.

Mark Z.

--
Please reply only to Group. I regret this is necessary. Viruses and spam
have rendered my regular e-mail address useless.


"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
m...
I have a 7 year old pair of NHT 2.5i's that I drive with my trusty 13 yr
old
Carver TFM-15. For 7 years these two have given me wonderful music
reproduction. Have had numerous digital sources and pre-amps.

This morning after about 1 hour of quiet FM radio listening the Carver
"shut-down". Lights and all. I turned off all components and
re-started
in sequential order. Within 5 minutes it shut-down again. My wide
says
she heard a subtle "pop". So I check all connections and main fuse.
No
probs. No excessive heat or smell. Aside from shut down, music sounded
perfect. No audible issues. I disconnect speaker's connections and
post-jumper (did not run in bi-amp mode) and get out the FLUKE.
Low-freq
posts registers 5.5 ohms (spec) both channels. Hi-freq posts (+ -) it
registers "OL" (open circuit). Both R and L are same.

Anybody have any ideas? Why are hi-freq inputs at OL?

(Addl' Background: For 2 years had a 2nd TFM-15cb bi-amping the 2.5i's.
It
was connected to hi-freq inputs. It began to introduce static and
noise.
Then it "shut-down" as above. Removed 1 year ago, went back to single
amp
and all was good...until now.)

TIA for any help !

thanks...i have a feeling I need a new amp. My trusty Carvers have kicked
the bucket!

"Mark D. Zacharias" wrote in message
...
Sounds like the amp has a problem, probably not the speakers, though they
and the wires should probably be checked and corrected as necessary.

Mark Z.

--
Please reply only to Group. I regret this is necessary. Viruses and spam
have rendered my regular e-mail address useless.


"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
m...
I have a 7 year old pair of NHT 2.5i's that I drive with my trusty 13 yr
old
Carver TFM-15. For 7 years these two have given me wonderful music
reproduction. Have had numerous digital sources and pre-amps.

This morning after about 1 hour of quiet FM radio listening the Carver
"shut-down". Lights and all. I turned off all components and
re-started
in sequential order. Within 5 minutes it shut-down again. My wide
says
she heard a subtle "pop". So I check all connections and main fuse.
No
probs. No excessive heat or smell. Aside from shut down, music sounded
perfect. No audible issues. I disconnect speaker's connections and
post-jumper (did not run in bi-amp mode) and get out the FLUKE.
Low-freq
posts registers 5.5 ohms (spec) both channels. Hi-freq posts (+ -) it
registers "OL" (open circuit). Both R and L are same.

Anybody have any ideas? Why are hi-freq inputs at OL?

(Addl' Background: For 2 years had a 2nd TFM-15cb bi-amping the 2.5i's.
It
was connected to hi-freq inputs. It began to introduce static and
noise.
Then it "shut-down" as above. Removed 1 year ago, went back to single
amp
and all was good...until now.)

TIA for any help !

"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
om

Thanks for input Arny. I ran this by one of the senior engineering
guys at work. He asked if my grid power was dirty. I thought about
it and sure enough, my lights are occasionally dimming/flickering.

What does that really mean? Is it an indictment of your power grid or your
house wiring?

He thinks power amps really take brunt of these sags and surges.

Power amps are more likely to be marginally designed in the area of power
supplies because upgrades are most costly.

That all said, Carver does not have an enviable record for making reliable,
long-lasting power amps.

It's been a very long time since I've seen a power amp die for reasons that
were power-related. Your particular problem could very well have zero point
zero to do with line power quality.

He said before I go and drop a couple grand on new equipment to look
into a double-conversion AC-DC-AC UPS system dedicated to my hi-fi
rig (1.5KVA Powerware or GE). Called it a 120V "firewall".

Unless you've got a specific problem, its overkill and a waste of money. You
can buy a good power amp for the price of some of this kind of hardware. You
can redo some house wiring if that's the problem. A good power amp won't
care very much about power. The pro audio stuff typically lives through far
worse abuse, especially on the road.

Have you heard good/bad on the dedicated double-conv UPS idea?

Depends on what your power is really like.

Here's an inexpensive tool that might give you some clues:

http://www.smarthome.com/9034.html

"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
om

Thanks for input Arny. I ran this by one of the senior engineering
guys at work. He asked if my grid power was dirty. I thought about
it and sure enough, my lights are occasionally dimming/flickering.

What does that really mean? Is it an indictment of your power grid or your
house wiring?

He thinks power amps really take brunt of these sags and surges.

Power amps are more likely to be marginally designed in the area of power
supplies because upgrades are most costly.

That all said, Carver does not have an enviable record for making reliable,
long-lasting power amps.

It's been a very long time since I've seen a power amp die for reasons that
were power-related. Your particular problem could very well have zero point
zero to do with line power quality.

He said before I go and drop a couple grand on new equipment to look
into a double-conversion AC-DC-AC UPS system dedicated to my hi-fi
rig (1.5KVA Powerware or GE). Called it a 120V "firewall".

Unless you've got a specific problem, its overkill and a waste of money. You
can buy a good power amp for the price of some of this kind of hardware. You
can redo some house wiring if that's the problem. A good power amp won't
care very much about power. The pro audio stuff typically lives through far
worse abuse, especially on the road.

Have you heard good/bad on the dedicated double-conv UPS idea?

Depends on what your power is really like.

Here's an inexpensive tool that might give you some clues:

http://www.smarthome.com/9034.html

"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
om

Thanks for input Arny. I ran this by one of the senior engineering
guys at work. He asked if my grid power was dirty. I thought about
it and sure enough, my lights are occasionally dimming/flickering.

What does that really mean? Is it an indictment of your power grid or your
house wiring?

He thinks power amps really take brunt of these sags and surges.

Power amps are more likely to be marginally designed in the area of power
supplies because upgrades are most costly.

That all said, Carver does not have an enviable record for making reliable,
long-lasting power amps.

It's been a very long time since I've seen a power amp die for reasons that
were power-related. Your particular problem could very well have zero point
zero to do with line power quality.

He said before I go and drop a couple grand on new equipment to look
into a double-conversion AC-DC-AC UPS system dedicated to my hi-fi
rig (1.5KVA Powerware or GE). Called it a 120V "firewall".

Unless you've got a specific problem, its overkill and a waste of money. You
can buy a good power amp for the price of some of this kind of hardware. You
can redo some house wiring if that's the problem. A good power amp won't
care very much about power. The pro audio stuff typically lives through far
worse abuse, especially on the road.

Have you heard good/bad on the dedicated double-conv UPS idea?

Depends on what your power is really like.

Here's an inexpensive tool that might give you some clues:

http://www.smarthome.com/9034.html

"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
om

Thanks for input Arny. I ran this by one of the senior engineering
guys at work. He asked if my grid power was dirty. I thought about
it and sure enough, my lights are occasionally dimming/flickering.

What does that really mean? Is it an indictment of your power grid or your
house wiring?

He thinks power amps really take brunt of these sags and surges.

Power amps are more likely to be marginally designed in the area of power
supplies because upgrades are most costly.

That all said, Carver does not have an enviable record for making reliable,
long-lasting power amps.

It's been a very long time since I've seen a power amp die for reasons that
were power-related. Your particular problem could very well have zero point
zero to do with line power quality.

He said before I go and drop a couple grand on new equipment to look
into a double-conversion AC-DC-AC UPS system dedicated to my hi-fi
rig (1.5KVA Powerware or GE). Called it a 120V "firewall".

Unless you've got a specific problem, its overkill and a waste of money. You
can buy a good power amp for the price of some of this kind of hardware. You
can redo some house wiring if that's the problem. A good power amp won't
care very much about power. The pro audio stuff typically lives through far
worse abuse, especially on the road.

Have you heard good/bad on the dedicated double-conv UPS idea?

Depends on what your power is really like.

Here's an inexpensive tool that might give you some clues:

http://www.smarthome.com/9034.html

If your lights are dimming/flickering you need to find out why.... do some
of the lights in the house get over bright and burn out frequently?

You need to find the source of your power problems..... unless it is over
100 degrees outside the "grid" is not the most likely suspect.....

Rgds:
Eric

"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
om...
Thanks for input Arny. I ran this by one of the senior engineering guys
at
work. He asked if my grid power was dirty. I thought about it and sure
enough, my lights are occasionally dimming/flickering. He thinks power
amps
really take brunt of these sags and surges.

He said before I go and drop a couple grand on new equipment to look into
a
double-conversion AC-DC-AC UPS system dedicated to my hi-fi rig (1.5KVA
Powerware or GE). Called it a 120V "firewall".

Have you heard good/bad on the dedicated double-conv UPS idea?

thanks
"Arny Krueger" wrote in message
...
"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
m
I have a 7 year old pair of NHT 2.5i's that I drive with my trusty 13
yr old Carver TFM-15. For 7 years these two have given me wonderful
music reproduction. Have had numerous digital sources and pre-amps.

This morning after about 1 hour of quiet FM radio listening the Carver
"shut-down". Lights and all. I turned off all components and
re-started in sequential order. Within 5 minutes it shut-down again.
My wide says she heard a subtle "pop".

The pop would be probably due to the amp shutting down.

Sounds like you have a sick amp.

So I check all connections
and main fuse. No probs. No excessive heat or smell. Aside from
shut down, music sounded perfect. No audible issues. I disconnect
speaker's connections and post-jumper (did not run in bi-amp mode)
and get out the FLUKE. Low-freq posts registers 5.5 ohms (spec) both
channels. Hi-freq posts (+ -) it registers "OL" (open circuit).
Both R and L are same.

Sounds about right. There's usually a capacitor in series with the
tweeters,
and this means that the tweeter terminals will read open circuit. Proof
of
pudding - is there any treble when you drive the speakers with another
amplifier? Is there any trouble?

Anybody have any ideas? Why are hi-freq inputs at OL?

Because there is a crossover capacitor in series with the tweeter. It
acts
as a high pass filter, dropping off the bass.

(Addl' Background: For 2 years had a 2nd TFM-15cb bi-amping the
2.5i's. It was connected to hi-freq inputs. It began to introduce
static and noise. Then it "shut-down" as above. Removed 1 year ago,
went back to single amp and all was good...until now.)

Sounds like you've discovered the end-of-life behavior of this
particular
Carver amp.

If your lights are dimming/flickering you need to find out why.... do some
of the lights in the house get over bright and burn out frequently?

You need to find the source of your power problems..... unless it is over
100 degrees outside the "grid" is not the most likely suspect.....

Rgds:
Eric

"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
om...
Thanks for input Arny. I ran this by one of the senior engineering guys
at
work. He asked if my grid power was dirty. I thought about it and sure
enough, my lights are occasionally dimming/flickering. He thinks power
amps
really take brunt of these sags and surges.

He said before I go and drop a couple grand on new equipment to look into
a
double-conversion AC-DC-AC UPS system dedicated to my hi-fi rig (1.5KVA
Powerware or GE). Called it a 120V "firewall".

Have you heard good/bad on the dedicated double-conv UPS idea?

thanks
"Arny Krueger" wrote in message
...
"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
m
I have a 7 year old pair of NHT 2.5i's that I drive with my trusty 13
yr old Carver TFM-15. For 7 years these two have given me wonderful
music reproduction. Have had numerous digital sources and pre-amps.

This morning after about 1 hour of quiet FM radio listening the Carver
"shut-down". Lights and all. I turned off all components and
re-started in sequential order. Within 5 minutes it shut-down again.
My wide says she heard a subtle "pop".

The pop would be probably due to the amp shutting down.

Sounds like you have a sick amp.

So I check all connections
and main fuse. No probs. No excessive heat or smell. Aside from
shut down, music sounded perfect. No audible issues. I disconnect
speaker's connections and post-jumper (did not run in bi-amp mode)
and get out the FLUKE. Low-freq posts registers 5.5 ohms (spec) both
channels. Hi-freq posts (+ -) it registers "OL" (open circuit).
Both R and L are same.

Sounds about right. There's usually a capacitor in series with the
tweeters,
and this means that the tweeter terminals will read open circuit. Proof
of
pudding - is there any treble when you drive the speakers with another
amplifier? Is there any trouble?

Anybody have any ideas? Why are hi-freq inputs at OL?

Because there is a crossover capacitor in series with the tweeter. It
acts
as a high pass filter, dropping off the bass.

(Addl' Background: For 2 years had a 2nd TFM-15cb bi-amping the
2.5i's. It was connected to hi-freq inputs. It began to introduce
static and noise. Then it "shut-down" as above. Removed 1 year ago,
went back to single amp and all was good...until now.)

Sounds like you've discovered the end-of-life behavior of this
particular
Carver amp.

If your lights are dimming/flickering you need to find out why.... do some
of the lights in the house get over bright and burn out frequently?

You need to find the source of your power problems..... unless it is over
100 degrees outside the "grid" is not the most likely suspect.....

Rgds:
Eric

"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
om...
Thanks for input Arny. I ran this by one of the senior engineering guys
at
work. He asked if my grid power was dirty. I thought about it and sure
enough, my lights are occasionally dimming/flickering. He thinks power
amps
really take brunt of these sags and surges.

He said before I go and drop a couple grand on new equipment to look into
a
double-conversion AC-DC-AC UPS system dedicated to my hi-fi rig (1.5KVA
Powerware or GE). Called it a 120V "firewall".

Have you heard good/bad on the dedicated double-conv UPS idea?

thanks
"Arny Krueger" wrote in message
...
"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
m
I have a 7 year old pair of NHT 2.5i's that I drive with my trusty 13
yr old Carver TFM-15. For 7 years these two have given me wonderful
music reproduction. Have had numerous digital sources and pre-amps.

This morning after about 1 hour of quiet FM radio listening the Carver
"shut-down". Lights and all. I turned off all components and
re-started in sequential order. Within 5 minutes it shut-down again.
My wide says she heard a subtle "pop".

The pop would be probably due to the amp shutting down.

Sounds like you have a sick amp.

So I check all connections
and main fuse. No probs. No excessive heat or smell. Aside from
shut down, music sounded perfect. No audible issues. I disconnect
speaker's connections and post-jumper (did not run in bi-amp mode)
and get out the FLUKE. Low-freq posts registers 5.5 ohms (spec) both
channels. Hi-freq posts (+ -) it registers "OL" (open circuit).
Both R and L are same.

Sounds about right. There's usually a capacitor in series with the
tweeters,
and this means that the tweeter terminals will read open circuit. Proof
of
pudding - is there any treble when you drive the speakers with another
amplifier? Is there any trouble?

Anybody have any ideas? Why are hi-freq inputs at OL?

Because there is a crossover capacitor in series with the tweeter. It
acts
as a high pass filter, dropping off the bass.

(Addl' Background: For 2 years had a 2nd TFM-15cb bi-amping the
2.5i's. It was connected to hi-freq inputs. It began to introduce
static and noise. Then it "shut-down" as above. Removed 1 year ago,
went back to single amp and all was good...until now.)

Sounds like you've discovered the end-of-life behavior of this
particular
Carver amp.

If your lights are dimming/flickering you need to find out why.... do some
of the lights in the house get over bright and burn out frequently?

You need to find the source of your power problems..... unless it is over
100 degrees outside the "grid" is not the most likely suspect.....

Rgds:
Eric

"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
om...
Thanks for input Arny. I ran this by one of the senior engineering guys
at
work. He asked if my grid power was dirty. I thought about it and sure
enough, my lights are occasionally dimming/flickering. He thinks power
amps
really take brunt of these sags and surges.

He said before I go and drop a couple grand on new equipment to look into
a
double-conversion AC-DC-AC UPS system dedicated to my hi-fi rig (1.5KVA
Powerware or GE). Called it a 120V "firewall".

Have you heard good/bad on the dedicated double-conv UPS idea?

thanks
"Arny Krueger" wrote in message
...
"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
m
I have a 7 year old pair of NHT 2.5i's that I drive with my trusty 13
yr old Carver TFM-15. For 7 years these two have given me wonderful
music reproduction. Have had numerous digital sources and pre-amps.

This morning after about 1 hour of quiet FM radio listening the Carver
"shut-down". Lights and all. I turned off all components and
re-started in sequential order. Within 5 minutes it shut-down again.
My wide says she heard a subtle "pop".

The pop would be probably due to the amp shutting down.

Sounds like you have a sick amp.

So I check all connections
and main fuse. No probs. No excessive heat or smell. Aside from
shut down, music sounded perfect. No audible issues. I disconnect
speaker's connections and post-jumper (did not run in bi-amp mode)
and get out the FLUKE. Low-freq posts registers 5.5 ohms (spec) both
channels. Hi-freq posts (+ -) it registers "OL" (open circuit).
Both R and L are same.

Sounds about right. There's usually a capacitor in series with the
tweeters,
and this means that the tweeter terminals will read open circuit. Proof
of
pudding - is there any treble when you drive the speakers with another
amplifier? Is there any trouble?

Anybody have any ideas? Why are hi-freq inputs at OL?

Because there is a crossover capacitor in series with the tweeter. It
acts
as a high pass filter, dropping off the bass.

(Addl' Background: For 2 years had a 2nd TFM-15cb bi-amping the
2.5i's. It was connected to hi-freq inputs. It began to introduce
static and noise. Then it "shut-down" as above. Removed 1 year ago,
went back to single amp and all was good...until now.)

Sounds like you've discovered the end-of-life behavior of this
particular
Carver amp.

from what I can tell it is a utility issue. Neighbors laughed when I asked
them about it last summer. I'm in the CITY just outside a heavy industrial
area.

But.....definitely want to upgrade panel to 200A with as much of a re-wire
as I can do myself. Currently have a 30yr-old 100A SqD main brkr with 8
branch ckts. My hi-fi rig is on its own circuit (except 2 lamps in that
room). Entire house is ran with 3-wire Romex. No old 2-wire MC which can
cause ground issues. 15A receptacle for hi-fi sys is a hosp grade Leviton
that I installed when i moved in.

Funny part is as soon as I moved in (2 years ago) my 7 yr-old Panamax 1000+
Power monitor/surge suppressor died and I have been running almost "naked"
with a $40 Tripplite power strip/suppressor.

I think Arny is correct...I just came to end-of-life on some of my mid-fi
components. I'm going this weekend to take a listen to some replacements.
Just would hate to have this happen again. The UPS thing is still an
option. Through a business associate I can get a GE AC-DC-AC UPS at very
low cost.

thanks for the reply

TC

"Eric K. Weber" wrote in message
...
If your lights are dimming/flickering you need to find out why.... do
some
of the lights in the house get over bright and burn out frequently?

You need to find the source of your power problems..... unless it is over
100 degrees outside the "grid" is not the most likely suspect.....

Rgds:
Eric

"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
om...
Thanks for input Arny. I ran this by one of the senior engineering guys
at
work. He asked if my grid power was dirty. I thought about it and sure
enough, my lights are occasionally dimming/flickering. He thinks power
amps
really take brunt of these sags and surges.

He said before I go and drop a couple grand on new equipment to look
into
a
double-conversion AC-DC-AC UPS system dedicated to my hi-fi rig (1.5KVA
Powerware or GE). Called it a 120V "firewall".

Have you heard good/bad on the dedicated double-conv UPS idea?

thanks
"Arny Krueger" wrote in message
...
"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
m
I have a 7 year old pair of NHT 2.5i's that I drive with my trusty
13
yr old Carver TFM-15. For 7 years these two have given me wonderful
music reproduction. Have had numerous digital sources and pre-amps.

This morning after about 1 hour of quiet FM radio listening the
Carver
"shut-down". Lights and all. I turned off all components and
re-started in sequential order. Within 5 minutes it shut-down
again.
My wide says she heard a subtle "pop".

The pop would be probably due to the amp shutting down.

Sounds like you have a sick amp.

So I check all connections
and main fuse. No probs. No excessive heat or smell. Aside from
shut down, music sounded perfect. No audible issues. I disconnect
speaker's connections and post-jumper (did not run in bi-amp mode)
and get out the FLUKE. Low-freq posts registers 5.5 ohms (spec)
both
channels. Hi-freq posts (+ -) it registers "OL" (open circuit).
Both R and L are same.

Sounds about right. There's usually a capacitor in series with the
tweeters,
and this means that the tweeter terminals will read open circuit.
Proof
of
pudding - is there any treble when you drive the speakers with another
amplifier? Is there any trouble?

Anybody have any ideas? Why are hi-freq inputs at OL?

Because there is a crossover capacitor in series with the tweeter. It
acts
as a high pass filter, dropping off the bass.

(Addl' Background: For 2 years had a 2nd TFM-15cb bi-amping the
2.5i's. It was connected to hi-freq inputs. It began to introduce
static and noise. Then it "shut-down" as above. Removed 1 year ago,
went back to single amp and all was good...until now.)

Sounds like you've discovered the end-of-life behavior of this
particular
Carver amp.

from what I can tell it is a utility issue. Neighbors laughed when I asked
them about it last summer. I'm in the CITY just outside a heavy industrial
area.

But.....definitely want to upgrade panel to 200A with as much of a re-wire
as I can do myself. Currently have a 30yr-old 100A SqD main brkr with 8
branch ckts. My hi-fi rig is on its own circuit (except 2 lamps in that
room). Entire house is ran with 3-wire Romex. No old 2-wire MC which can
cause ground issues. 15A receptacle for hi-fi sys is a hosp grade Leviton
that I installed when i moved in.

Funny part is as soon as I moved in (2 years ago) my 7 yr-old Panamax 1000+
Power monitor/surge suppressor died and I have been running almost "naked"
with a $40 Tripplite power strip/suppressor.

I think Arny is correct...I just came to end-of-life on some of my mid-fi
components. I'm going this weekend to take a listen to some replacements.
Just would hate to have this happen again. The UPS thing is still an
option. Through a business associate I can get a GE AC-DC-AC UPS at very
low cost.

thanks for the reply

TC

"Eric K. Weber" wrote in message
...
If your lights are dimming/flickering you need to find out why.... do
some
of the lights in the house get over bright and burn out frequently?

You need to find the source of your power problems..... unless it is over
100 degrees outside the "grid" is not the most likely suspect.....

Rgds:
Eric

"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
om...
Thanks for input Arny. I ran this by one of the senior engineering guys
at
work. He asked if my grid power was dirty. I thought about it and sure
enough, my lights are occasionally dimming/flickering. He thinks power
amps
really take brunt of these sags and surges.

He said before I go and drop a couple grand on new equipment to look
into
a
double-conversion AC-DC-AC UPS system dedicated to my hi-fi rig (1.5KVA
Powerware or GE). Called it a 120V "firewall".

Have you heard good/bad on the dedicated double-conv UPS idea?

thanks
"Arny Krueger" wrote in message
...
"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
m
I have a 7 year old pair of NHT 2.5i's that I drive with my trusty
13
yr old Carver TFM-15. For 7 years these two have given me wonderful
music reproduction. Have had numerous digital sources and pre-amps.

This morning after about 1 hour of quiet FM radio listening the
Carver
"shut-down". Lights and all. I turned off all components and
re-started in sequential order. Within 5 minutes it shut-down
again.
My wide says she heard a subtle "pop".

The pop would be probably due to the amp shutting down.

Sounds like you have a sick amp.

So I check all connections
and main fuse. No probs. No excessive heat or smell. Aside from
shut down, music sounded perfect. No audible issues. I disconnect
speaker's connections and post-jumper (did not run in bi-amp mode)
and get out the FLUKE. Low-freq posts registers 5.5 ohms (spec)
both
channels. Hi-freq posts (+ -) it registers "OL" (open circuit).
Both R and L are same.

Sounds about right. There's usually a capacitor in series with the
tweeters,
and this means that the tweeter terminals will read open circuit.
Proof
of
pudding - is there any treble when you drive the speakers with another
amplifier? Is there any trouble?

Anybody have any ideas? Why are hi-freq inputs at OL?

Because there is a crossover capacitor in series with the tweeter. It
acts
as a high pass filter, dropping off the bass.

(Addl' Background: For 2 years had a 2nd TFM-15cb bi-amping the
2.5i's. It was connected to hi-freq inputs. It began to introduce
static and noise. Then it "shut-down" as above. Removed 1 year ago,
went back to single amp and all was good...until now.)

Sounds like you've discovered the end-of-life behavior of this
particular
Carver amp.

from what I can tell it is a utility issue. Neighbors laughed when I asked
them about it last summer. I'm in the CITY just outside a heavy industrial
area.

But.....definitely want to upgrade panel to 200A with as much of a re-wire
as I can do myself. Currently have a 30yr-old 100A SqD main brkr with 8
branch ckts. My hi-fi rig is on its own circuit (except 2 lamps in that
room). Entire house is ran with 3-wire Romex. No old 2-wire MC which can
cause ground issues. 15A receptacle for hi-fi sys is a hosp grade Leviton
that I installed when i moved in.

Funny part is as soon as I moved in (2 years ago) my 7 yr-old Panamax 1000+
Power monitor/surge suppressor died and I have been running almost "naked"
with a $40 Tripplite power strip/suppressor.

I think Arny is correct...I just came to end-of-life on some of my mid-fi
components. I'm going this weekend to take a listen to some replacements.
Just would hate to have this happen again. The UPS thing is still an
option. Through a business associate I can get a GE AC-DC-AC UPS at very
low cost.

thanks for the reply

TC

"Eric K. Weber" wrote in message
...
If your lights are dimming/flickering you need to find out why.... do
some
of the lights in the house get over bright and burn out frequently?

You need to find the source of your power problems..... unless it is over
100 degrees outside the "grid" is not the most likely suspect.....

Rgds:
Eric

"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
om...
Thanks for input Arny. I ran this by one of the senior engineering guys
at
work. He asked if my grid power was dirty. I thought about it and sure
enough, my lights are occasionally dimming/flickering. He thinks power
amps
really take brunt of these sags and surges.

He said before I go and drop a couple grand on new equipment to look
into
a
double-conversion AC-DC-AC UPS system dedicated to my hi-fi rig (1.5KVA
Powerware or GE). Called it a 120V "firewall".

Have you heard good/bad on the dedicated double-conv UPS idea?

thanks
"Arny Krueger" wrote in message
...
"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
m
I have a 7 year old pair of NHT 2.5i's that I drive with my trusty
13
yr old Carver TFM-15. For 7 years these two have given me wonderful
music reproduction. Have had numerous digital sources and pre-amps.

This morning after about 1 hour of quiet FM radio listening the
Carver
"shut-down". Lights and all. I turned off all components and
re-started in sequential order. Within 5 minutes it shut-down
again.
My wide says she heard a subtle "pop".

The pop would be probably due to the amp shutting down.

Sounds like you have a sick amp.

So I check all connections
and main fuse. No probs. No excessive heat or smell. Aside from
shut down, music sounded perfect. No audible issues. I disconnect
speaker's connections and post-jumper (did not run in bi-amp mode)
and get out the FLUKE. Low-freq posts registers 5.5 ohms (spec)
both
channels. Hi-freq posts (+ -) it registers "OL" (open circuit).
Both R and L are same.

Sounds about right. There's usually a capacitor in series with the
tweeters,
and this means that the tweeter terminals will read open circuit.
Proof
of
pudding - is there any treble when you drive the speakers with another
amplifier? Is there any trouble?

Anybody have any ideas? Why are hi-freq inputs at OL?

Because there is a crossover capacitor in series with the tweeter. It
acts
as a high pass filter, dropping off the bass.

(Addl' Background: For 2 years had a 2nd TFM-15cb bi-amping the
2.5i's. It was connected to hi-freq inputs. It began to introduce
static and noise. Then it "shut-down" as above. Removed 1 year ago,
went back to single amp and all was good...until now.)

Sounds like you've discovered the end-of-life behavior of this
particular
Carver amp.

from what I can tell it is a utility issue. Neighbors laughed when I asked
them about it last summer. I'm in the CITY just outside a heavy industrial
area.

But.....definitely want to upgrade panel to 200A with as much of a re-wire
as I can do myself. Currently have a 30yr-old 100A SqD main brkr with 8
branch ckts. My hi-fi rig is on its own circuit (except 2 lamps in that
room). Entire house is ran with 3-wire Romex. No old 2-wire MC which can
cause ground issues. 15A receptacle for hi-fi sys is a hosp grade Leviton
that I installed when i moved in.

Funny part is as soon as I moved in (2 years ago) my 7 yr-old Panamax 1000+
Power monitor/surge suppressor died and I have been running almost "naked"
with a $40 Tripplite power strip/suppressor.

I think Arny is correct...I just came to end-of-life on some of my mid-fi
components. I'm going this weekend to take a listen to some replacements.
Just would hate to have this happen again. The UPS thing is still an
option. Through a business associate I can get a GE AC-DC-AC UPS at very
low cost.

thanks for the reply

TC

"Eric K. Weber" wrote in message
...
If your lights are dimming/flickering you need to find out why.... do
some
of the lights in the house get over bright and burn out frequently?

You need to find the source of your power problems..... unless it is over
100 degrees outside the "grid" is not the most likely suspect.....

Rgds:
Eric

"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
om...
Thanks for input Arny. I ran this by one of the senior engineering guys
at
work. He asked if my grid power was dirty. I thought about it and sure
enough, my lights are occasionally dimming/flickering. He thinks power
amps
really take brunt of these sags and surges.

He said before I go and drop a couple grand on new equipment to look
into
a
double-conversion AC-DC-AC UPS system dedicated to my hi-fi rig (1.5KVA
Powerware or GE). Called it a 120V "firewall".

Have you heard good/bad on the dedicated double-conv UPS idea?

thanks
"Arny Krueger" wrote in message
...
"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
m
I have a 7 year old pair of NHT 2.5i's that I drive with my trusty
13
yr old Carver TFM-15. For 7 years these two have given me wonderful
music reproduction. Have had numerous digital sources and pre-amps.

This morning after about 1 hour of quiet FM radio listening the
Carver
"shut-down". Lights and all. I turned off all components and
re-started in sequential order. Within 5 minutes it shut-down
again.
My wide says she heard a subtle "pop".

The pop would be probably due to the amp shutting down.

Sounds like you have a sick amp.

So I check all connections
and main fuse. No probs. No excessive heat or smell. Aside from
shut down, music sounded perfect. No audible issues. I disconnect
speaker's connections and post-jumper (did not run in bi-amp mode)
and get out the FLUKE. Low-freq posts registers 5.5 ohms (spec)
both
channels. Hi-freq posts (+ -) it registers "OL" (open circuit).
Both R and L are same.

Sounds about right. There's usually a capacitor in series with the
tweeters,
and this means that the tweeter terminals will read open circuit.
Proof
of
pudding - is there any treble when you drive the speakers with another
amplifier? Is there any trouble?

Anybody have any ideas? Why are hi-freq inputs at OL?

Because there is a crossover capacitor in series with the tweeter. It
acts
as a high pass filter, dropping off the bass.

(Addl' Background: For 2 years had a 2nd TFM-15cb bi-amping the
2.5i's. It was connected to hi-freq inputs. It began to introduce
static and noise. Then it "shut-down" as above. Removed 1 year ago,
went back to single amp and all was good...until now.)

Sounds like you've discovered the end-of-life behavior of this
particular
Carver amp.

A call to the power company engineering department may be helpful, our local
one will supply a line monitor to anyone who complains.... They attempt to
improve the situation if things are outside of the regulated standards.

If it's just you an the neighbors on the same distribution transformer it
could be as simple as a bad connection at the transformer.

Low voltage is unlikely to damage electronics.... (motors are an different
issue)

A loose neutral connection between the distribution transformer and your
breaker panel will cause voltage variations both below and above 120....

Rgds:
Eric


"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
om...
from what I can tell it is a utility issue. Neighbors laughed when I
asked
them about it last summer. I'm in the CITY just outside a heavy
industrial
area.

But.....definitely want to upgrade panel to 200A with as much of a re-wire
as I can do myself. Currently have a 30yr-old 100A SqD main brkr with 8
branch ckts. My hi-fi rig is on its own circuit (except 2 lamps in that
room). Entire house is ran with 3-wire Romex. No old 2-wire MC which can
cause ground issues. 15A receptacle for hi-fi sys is a hosp grade Leviton
that I installed when i moved in.

Funny part is as soon as I moved in (2 years ago) my 7 yr-old Panamax
1000+
Power monitor/surge suppressor died and I have been running almost "naked"
with a $40 Tripplite power strip/suppressor.

I think Arny is correct...I just came to end-of-life on some of my mid-fi
components. I'm going this weekend to take a listen to some
replacements.
Just would hate to have this happen again. The UPS thing is still an
option. Through a business associate I can get a GE AC-DC-AC UPS at very
low cost.

thanks for the reply

TC

"Eric K. Weber" wrote in message
...
If your lights are dimming/flickering you need to find out why.... do
some
of the lights in the house get over bright and burn out frequently?

You need to find the source of your power problems..... unless it is
over
100 degrees outside the "grid" is not the most likely suspect.....

Rgds:
Eric

"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
om...
Thanks for input Arny. I ran this by one of the senior engineering
guys
at
work. He asked if my grid power was dirty. I thought about it and
sure
enough, my lights are occasionally dimming/flickering. He thinks
power
amps
really take brunt of these sags and surges.

He said before I go and drop a couple grand on new equipment to look
into
a
double-conversion AC-DC-AC UPS system dedicated to my hi-fi rig
(1.5KVA
Powerware or GE). Called it a 120V "firewall".

Have you heard good/bad on the dedicated double-conv UPS idea?

thanks
"Arny Krueger" wrote in message
...
"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
m
I have a 7 year old pair of NHT 2.5i's that I drive with my trusty
13
yr old Carver TFM-15. For 7 years these two have given me
wonderful
music reproduction. Have had numerous digital sources and
pre-amps.

This morning after about 1 hour of quiet FM radio listening the
Carver
"shut-down". Lights and all. I turned off all components and
re-started in sequential order. Within 5 minutes it shut-down
again.
My wide says she heard a subtle "pop".

The pop would be probably due to the amp shutting down.

Sounds like you have a sick amp.

So I check all connections
and main fuse. No probs. No excessive heat or smell. Aside from
shut down, music sounded perfect. No audible issues. I
disconnect
speaker's connections and post-jumper (did not run in bi-amp mode)
and get out the FLUKE. Low-freq posts registers 5.5 ohms (spec)
both
channels. Hi-freq posts (+ -) it registers "OL" (open circuit).
Both R and L are same.

Sounds about right. There's usually a capacitor in series with the
tweeters,
and this means that the tweeter terminals will read open circuit.
Proof
of
pudding - is there any treble when you drive the speakers with
another
amplifier? Is there any trouble?

Anybody have any ideas? Why are hi-freq inputs at OL?

Because there is a crossover capacitor in series with the tweeter.
It
acts
as a high pass filter, dropping off the bass.

(Addl' Background: For 2 years had a 2nd TFM-15cb bi-amping the
2.5i's. It was connected to hi-freq inputs. It began to
introduce
static and noise. Then it "shut-down" as above. Removed 1 year
ago,
went back to single amp and all was good...until now.)

Sounds like you've discovered the end-of-life behavior of this
particular
Carver amp.

A call to the power company engineering department may be helpful, our local
one will supply a line monitor to anyone who complains.... They attempt to
improve the situation if things are outside of the regulated standards.

If it's just you an the neighbors on the same distribution transformer it
could be as simple as a bad connection at the transformer.

Low voltage is unlikely to damage electronics.... (motors are an different
issue)

A loose neutral connection between the distribution transformer and your
breaker panel will cause voltage variations both below and above 120....

Rgds:
Eric


"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
om...
from what I can tell it is a utility issue. Neighbors laughed when I
asked
them about it last summer. I'm in the CITY just outside a heavy
industrial
area.

But.....definitely want to upgrade panel to 200A with as much of a re-wire
as I can do myself. Currently have a 30yr-old 100A SqD main brkr with 8
branch ckts. My hi-fi rig is on its own circuit (except 2 lamps in that
room). Entire house is ran with 3-wire Romex. No old 2-wire MC which can
cause ground issues. 15A receptacle for hi-fi sys is a hosp grade Leviton
that I installed when i moved in.

Funny part is as soon as I moved in (2 years ago) my 7 yr-old Panamax
1000+
Power monitor/surge suppressor died and I have been running almost "naked"
with a $40 Tripplite power strip/suppressor.

I think Arny is correct...I just came to end-of-life on some of my mid-fi
components. I'm going this weekend to take a listen to some
replacements.
Just would hate to have this happen again. The UPS thing is still an
option. Through a business associate I can get a GE AC-DC-AC UPS at very
low cost.

thanks for the reply

TC

"Eric K. Weber" wrote in message
...
If your lights are dimming/flickering you need to find out why.... do
some
of the lights in the house get over bright and burn out frequently?

You need to find the source of your power problems..... unless it is
over
100 degrees outside the "grid" is not the most likely suspect.....

Rgds:
Eric

"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
om...
Thanks for input Arny. I ran this by one of the senior engineering
guys
at
work. He asked if my grid power was dirty. I thought about it and
sure
enough, my lights are occasionally dimming/flickering. He thinks
power
amps
really take brunt of these sags and surges.

He said before I go and drop a couple grand on new equipment to look
into
a
double-conversion AC-DC-AC UPS system dedicated to my hi-fi rig
(1.5KVA
Powerware or GE). Called it a 120V "firewall".

Have you heard good/bad on the dedicated double-conv UPS idea?

thanks
"Arny Krueger" wrote in message
...
"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
m
I have a 7 year old pair of NHT 2.5i's that I drive with my trusty
13
yr old Carver TFM-15. For 7 years these two have given me
wonderful
music reproduction. Have had numerous digital sources and
pre-amps.

This morning after about 1 hour of quiet FM radio listening the
Carver
"shut-down". Lights and all. I turned off all components and
re-started in sequential order. Within 5 minutes it shut-down
again.
My wide says she heard a subtle "pop".

The pop would be probably due to the amp shutting down.

Sounds like you have a sick amp.

So I check all connections
and main fuse. No probs. No excessive heat or smell. Aside from
shut down, music sounded perfect. No audible issues. I
disconnect
speaker's connections and post-jumper (did not run in bi-amp mode)
and get out the FLUKE. Low-freq posts registers 5.5 ohms (spec)
both
channels. Hi-freq posts (+ -) it registers "OL" (open circuit).
Both R and L are same.

Sounds about right. There's usually a capacitor in series with the
tweeters,
and this means that the tweeter terminals will read open circuit.
Proof
of
pudding - is there any treble when you drive the speakers with
another
amplifier? Is there any trouble?

Anybody have any ideas? Why are hi-freq inputs at OL?

Because there is a crossover capacitor in series with the tweeter.
It
acts
as a high pass filter, dropping off the bass.

(Addl' Background: For 2 years had a 2nd TFM-15cb bi-amping the
2.5i's. It was connected to hi-freq inputs. It began to
introduce
static and noise. Then it "shut-down" as above. Removed 1 year
ago,
went back to single amp and all was good...until now.)

Sounds like you've discovered the end-of-life behavior of this
particular
Carver amp.

A call to the power company engineering department may be helpful, our local
one will supply a line monitor to anyone who complains.... They attempt to
improve the situation if things are outside of the regulated standards.

If it's just you an the neighbors on the same distribution transformer it
could be as simple as a bad connection at the transformer.

Low voltage is unlikely to damage electronics.... (motors are an different
issue)

A loose neutral connection between the distribution transformer and your
breaker panel will cause voltage variations both below and above 120....

Rgds:
Eric


"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
om...
from what I can tell it is a utility issue. Neighbors laughed when I
asked
them about it last summer. I'm in the CITY just outside a heavy
industrial
area.

But.....definitely want to upgrade panel to 200A with as much of a re-wire
as I can do myself. Currently have a 30yr-old 100A SqD main brkr with 8
branch ckts. My hi-fi rig is on its own circuit (except 2 lamps in that
room). Entire house is ran with 3-wire Romex. No old 2-wire MC which can
cause ground issues. 15A receptacle for hi-fi sys is a hosp grade Leviton
that I installed when i moved in.

Funny part is as soon as I moved in (2 years ago) my 7 yr-old Panamax
1000+
Power monitor/surge suppressor died and I have been running almost "naked"
with a $40 Tripplite power strip/suppressor.

I think Arny is correct...I just came to end-of-life on some of my mid-fi
components. I'm going this weekend to take a listen to some
replacements.
Just would hate to have this happen again. The UPS thing is still an
option. Through a business associate I can get a GE AC-DC-AC UPS at very
low cost.

thanks for the reply

TC

"Eric K. Weber" wrote in message
...
If your lights are dimming/flickering you need to find out why.... do
some
of the lights in the house get over bright and burn out frequently?

You need to find the source of your power problems..... unless it is
over
100 degrees outside the "grid" is not the most likely suspect.....

Rgds:
Eric

"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
om...
Thanks for input Arny. I ran this by one of the senior engineering
guys
at
work. He asked if my grid power was dirty. I thought about it and
sure
enough, my lights are occasionally dimming/flickering. He thinks
power
amps
really take brunt of these sags and surges.

He said before I go and drop a couple grand on new equipment to look
into
a
double-conversion AC-DC-AC UPS system dedicated to my hi-fi rig
(1.5KVA
Powerware or GE). Called it a 120V "firewall".

Have you heard good/bad on the dedicated double-conv UPS idea?

thanks
"Arny Krueger" wrote in message
...
"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
m
I have a 7 year old pair of NHT 2.5i's that I drive with my trusty
13
yr old Carver TFM-15. For 7 years these two have given me
wonderful
music reproduction. Have had numerous digital sources and
pre-amps.

This morning after about 1 hour of quiet FM radio listening the
Carver
"shut-down". Lights and all. I turned off all components and
re-started in sequential order. Within 5 minutes it shut-down
again.
My wide says she heard a subtle "pop".

The pop would be probably due to the amp shutting down.

Sounds like you have a sick amp.

So I check all connections
and main fuse. No probs. No excessive heat or smell. Aside from
shut down, music sounded perfect. No audible issues. I
disconnect
speaker's connections and post-jumper (did not run in bi-amp mode)
and get out the FLUKE. Low-freq posts registers 5.5 ohms (spec)
both
channels. Hi-freq posts (+ -) it registers "OL" (open circuit).
Both R and L are same.

Sounds about right. There's usually a capacitor in series with the
tweeters,
and this means that the tweeter terminals will read open circuit.
Proof
of
pudding - is there any treble when you drive the speakers with
another
amplifier? Is there any trouble?

Anybody have any ideas? Why are hi-freq inputs at OL?

Because there is a crossover capacitor in series with the tweeter.
It
acts
as a high pass filter, dropping off the bass.

(Addl' Background: For 2 years had a 2nd TFM-15cb bi-amping the
2.5i's. It was connected to hi-freq inputs. It began to
introduce
static and noise. Then it "shut-down" as above. Removed 1 year
ago,
went back to single amp and all was good...until now.)

Sounds like you've discovered the end-of-life behavior of this
particular
Carver amp.

A call to the power company engineering department may be helpful, our local
one will supply a line monitor to anyone who complains.... They attempt to
improve the situation if things are outside of the regulated standards.

If it's just you an the neighbors on the same distribution transformer it
could be as simple as a bad connection at the transformer.

Low voltage is unlikely to damage electronics.... (motors are an different
issue)

A loose neutral connection between the distribution transformer and your
breaker panel will cause voltage variations both below and above 120....

Rgds:
Eric


"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
om...
from what I can tell it is a utility issue. Neighbors laughed when I
asked
them about it last summer. I'm in the CITY just outside a heavy
industrial
area.

But.....definitely want to upgrade panel to 200A with as much of a re-wire
as I can do myself. Currently have a 30yr-old 100A SqD main brkr with 8
branch ckts. My hi-fi rig is on its own circuit (except 2 lamps in that
room). Entire house is ran with 3-wire Romex. No old 2-wire MC which can
cause ground issues. 15A receptacle for hi-fi sys is a hosp grade Leviton
that I installed when i moved in.

Funny part is as soon as I moved in (2 years ago) my 7 yr-old Panamax
1000+
Power monitor/surge suppressor died and I have been running almost "naked"
with a $40 Tripplite power strip/suppressor.

I think Arny is correct...I just came to end-of-life on some of my mid-fi
components. I'm going this weekend to take a listen to some
replacements.
Just would hate to have this happen again. The UPS thing is still an
option. Through a business associate I can get a GE AC-DC-AC UPS at very
low cost.

thanks for the reply

TC

"Eric K. Weber" wrote in message
...
If your lights are dimming/flickering you need to find out why.... do
some
of the lights in the house get over bright and burn out frequently?

You need to find the source of your power problems..... unless it is
over
100 degrees outside the "grid" is not the most likely suspect.....

Rgds:
Eric

"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
om...
Thanks for input Arny. I ran this by one of the senior engineering
guys
at
work. He asked if my grid power was dirty. I thought about it and
sure
enough, my lights are occasionally dimming/flickering. He thinks
power
amps
really take brunt of these sags and surges.

He said before I go and drop a couple grand on new equipment to look
into
a
double-conversion AC-DC-AC UPS system dedicated to my hi-fi rig
(1.5KVA
Powerware or GE). Called it a 120V "firewall".

Have you heard good/bad on the dedicated double-conv UPS idea?

thanks
"Arny Krueger" wrote in message
...
"Oceans 2K" wrote in message
m
I have a 7 year old pair of NHT 2.5i's that I drive with my trusty
13
yr old Carver TFM-15. For 7 years these two have given me
wonderful
music reproduction. Have had numerous digital sources and
pre-amps.

This morning after about 1 hour of quiet FM radio listening the
Carver
"shut-down". Lights and all. I turned off all components and
re-started in sequential order. Within 5 minutes it shut-down
again.
My wide says she heard a subtle "pop".

The pop would be probably due to the amp shutting down.

Sounds like you have a sick amp.

So I check all connections
and main fuse. No probs. No excessive heat or smell. Aside from
shut down, music sounded perfect. No audible issues. I
disconnect
speaker's connections and post-jumper (did not run in bi-amp mode)
and get out the FLUKE. Low-freq posts registers 5.5 ohms (spec)
both
channels. Hi-freq posts (+ -) it registers "OL" (open circuit).
Both R and L are same.

Sounds about right. There's usually a capacitor in series with the
tweeters,
and this means that the tweeter terminals will read open circuit.
Proof
of
pudding - is there any treble when you drive the speakers with
another
amplifier? Is there any trouble?

Anybody have any ideas? Why are hi-freq inputs at OL?

Because there is a crossover capacitor in series with the tweeter.
It
acts
as a high pass filter, dropping off the bass.

(Addl' Background: For 2 years had a 2nd TFM-15cb bi-amping the
2.5i's. It was connected to hi-freq inputs. It began to
introduce
static and noise. Then it "shut-down" as above. Removed 1 year
ago,
went back to single amp and all was good...until now.)

Sounds like you've discovered the end-of-life behavior of this
particular
Carver amp.