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#1
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neatly built Williamson monoblocks
I just liked the beautifully built DIY project of
two Williamson monoblocks shown on these pages http://www.jogis-roehrenbude.de/Lese...Williamson.htm The site is in German but you might enjoy the pictures. I'm not affiliated with the builder nor the site owner. Kind regards, Eike |
#2
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Nice work on the chassis. The countersinking really makes a
difference. Bob H. "Eike Lantzsch, ZP6CGE" wrote: I just liked the beautifully built DIY project of two Williamson monoblocks shown on these pages http://www.jogis-roehrenbude.de/Lese...Williamson.htm The site is in German but you might enjoy the pictures. I'm not affiliated with the builder nor the site owner. Kind regards, Eike Bob H. Just grab that plate in one hand, the chassis in the other, and FEEL the power of tube audio!!! (not literally, of course, just kidding. DON'T DO THAT!) |
#3
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Very, very nice. They remind me of the two Williamsons I built in 1959 but
laid out on 4 7X11 chassises (2 for the amps, 2 for the power supplies). All the wiring on the underside was in military terminal board style. Still running great!! "Eike Lantzsch, ZP6CGE" wrote in message ... I just liked the beautifully built DIY project of two Williamson monoblocks shown on these pages http://www.jogis-roehrenbude.de/Lese...Williamson.htm The site is in German but you might enjoy the pictures. I'm not affiliated with the builder nor the site owner. Kind regards, Eike |
#4
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I found a bunch of those military turret-style boards at Skyjunk (a
place we go to for stuff in Orlando, I forget the real name). I snapped up every good one they had for a dollar a strip, 35 or so cents for 5 pair boards. Theyre great for prototyping. I've got them all over my 300B/2A3 prototype and other stuff. I've got HP ceramic strips out of old o'scopes for the real thing. Junque is great, and cheap. Bob H. wrote: Very, very nice. They remind me of the two Williamsons I built in 1959 but laid out on 4 7X11 chassises (2 for the amps, 2 for the power supplies). All the wiring on the underside was in military terminal board style. Still running great!! "Eike Lantzsch, ZP6CGE" wrote in message ... I just liked the beautifully built DIY project of two Williamson monoblocks shown on these pages http://www.jogis-roehrenbude.de/Lese...Williamson.htm The site is in German but you might enjoy the pictures. I'm not affiliated with the builder nor the site owner. Kind regards, Eike Bob H. Just grab that plate in one hand, the chassis in the other, and FEEL the power of tube audio!!! (not literally, of course, just kidding. DON'T DO THAT!) |
#5
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Bob Hedberg wrote: I found a bunch of those military turret-style boards at Skyjunk (a place we go to for stuff in Orlando, I forget the real name). I snapped up every good one they had for a dollar a strip, 35 or so cents for 5 pair boards. Theyre great for prototyping. I've got them all over my 300B/2A3 prototype and other stuff. I've got HP ceramic strips out of old o'scopes for the real thing. Junque is great, and cheap. Bob H. I have recently made some of my own terminal strips using hardwood and 6 guage brass plated screws for the terminals. 4 guage would be OK. But pure brass c/s screws are also quite good, and the heads of the screws can be nipped off with end cutters to leave a stub of 6mm around which leads can be hooked and soldered. The beauty of DIY terminal strips like this is that layout can be tailored to suit the amp, and terminals can be used without waste, so unused terminals can be unscrewed from the timber strips. Painting the strips with with varnish seals the wood, which should have an extremely long life in a dry clean environment within a well ventilated chassis area which should be designed to run fairly cool. The timber I used is jarrah, but other Oz hardwood is OK, such as Vic ash, about 6mm x 8 mm in section is OK, but rock maple from canada might do. Softwoods such as pine or pacific maple are too soft, and likely to become heat affected after 50 years in an amp. Measuring for leakage current between a pair of screws embedded into the wood reveals a resistance too high for my DVM to measure, and soldering is ok, and doesn't melt anything. The sfiffness in the soldered up circuitry is better than the usual flimsy phenolic tag strip which although is effective, it looks cheap and nasty. I have been looking around for some plastic or phenolic bar material of the same section to suit the same idea of terminal screws, but so far the only offerings have been from a a guy wanting to sell me teflon bar, at rather a high price. Patrick Turner. wrote: Very, very nice. They remind me of the two Williamsons I built in 1959 but laid out on 4 7X11 chassises (2 for the amps, 2 for the power supplies). All the wiring on the underside was in military terminal board style. Still running great!! "Eike Lantzsch, ZP6CGE" wrote in message ... I just liked the beautifully built DIY project of two Williamson monoblocks shown on these pages http://www.jogis-roehrenbude.de/Lese...Williamson.htm The site is in German but you might enjoy the pictures. I'm not affiliated with the builder nor the site owner. Kind regards, Eike Bob H. Just grab that plate in one hand, the chassis in the other, and FEEL the power of tube audio!!! (not literally, of course, just kidding. DON'T DO THAT!) |
#6
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Hey Patrick,
Can we see a couple of pics of how you milled the wood to fit the brass? Did you inset a brass nut into the hardwood to accept the brass screw? Doug "Patrick Turner" wrote in message ... Bob Hedberg wrote: I found a bunch of those military turret-style boards at Skyjunk (a place we go to for stuff in Orlando, I forget the real name). I snapped up every good one they had for a dollar a strip, 35 or so cents for 5 pair boards. Theyre great for prototyping. I've got them all over my 300B/2A3 prototype and other stuff. I've got HP ceramic strips out of old o'scopes for the real thing. Junque is great, and cheap. Bob H. I have recently made some of my own terminal strips using hardwood and 6 guage brass plated screws for the terminals. 4 guage would be OK. But pure brass c/s screws are also quite good, and the heads of the screws can be nipped off with end cutters to leave a stub of 6mm around which leads can be hooked and soldered. The beauty of DIY terminal strips like this is that layout can be tailored to suit the amp, and terminals can be used without waste, so unused terminals can be unscrewed from the timber strips. Painting the strips with with varnish seals the wood, which should have an extremely long life in a dry clean environment within a well ventilated chassis area which should be designed to run fairly cool. The timber I used is jarrah, but other Oz hardwood is OK, such as Vic ash, about 6mm x 8 mm in section is OK, but rock maple from canada might do. Softwoods such as pine or pacific maple are too soft, and likely to become heat affected after 50 years in an amp. Measuring for leakage current between a pair of screws embedded into the wood reveals a resistance too high for my DVM to measure, and soldering is ok, and doesn't melt anything. The sfiffness in the soldered up circuitry is better than the usual flimsy phenolic tag strip which although is effective, it looks cheap and nasty. I have been looking around for some plastic or phenolic bar material of the same section to suit the same idea of terminal screws, but so far the only offerings have been from a a guy wanting to sell me teflon bar, at rather a high price. Patrick Turner. wrote: Very, very nice. They remind me of the two Williamsons I built in 1959 but laid out on 4 7X11 chassises (2 for the amps, 2 for the power supplies). All the wiring on the underside was in military terminal board style. Still running great!! "Eike Lantzsch, ZP6CGE" wrote in message ... I just liked the beautifully built DIY project of two Williamson monoblocks shown on these pages http://www.jogis-roehrenbude.de/Lese...n/Williamson.h tm The site is in German but you might enjoy the pictures. I'm not affiliated with the builder nor the site owner. Kind regards, Eike Bob H. Just grab that plate in one hand, the chassis in the other, and FEEL the power of tube audio!!! (not literally, of course, just kidding. DON'T DO THAT!) |
#7
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Doug Schultz wrote: Hey Patrick, Can we see a couple of pics of how you milled the wood to fit the brass? Not yet until I upgrade the website yet again. But I have a Dewalt bench saw, and electric planer, and making hardwood strips about 6mm x 8mm is easy. Then drill the holes for the tiny brass screws at 12mm c-c and you can easily make your own terminal strips to run alongside the tube sockets. Thet are much stronger than using tag strip boards with that unreinforced brown phenolic board about 2mm thickx 8mm wide with metal tags. I tried to find some heat resistant plastic, but all the specialist could offer was square bars of teflon, and very expensive. I know where to get 3 mm thick glass fibre reinforced board, which can be cut into 10mm wide strips for tag boards, but its maybe not as heat resistant to repeated soldering as the hardwood. Maybe Canadian rock maple would be good. Did you inset a brass nut into the hardwood to accept the brass screw? Nope, I used 4 guage wood screws about 5/8" long, used normally for small cabinet door hinges. These are screwed into the right size of hole to prevent splitting, and the strip is bolted or screwed from the top of the chassis and held off the bottom of the chassis underside with spacers to make sure the terminal screws don't reach to the chassis, and also allowing the running of wires below the strips against the chassis. The Oz hardwood like jarrah is ideal. Just don't ever use yellow pine! I have a very stuffed Lavoie oscilliscope which is full of re-cyclable parts including ceramic terminal strips with metal U bits along the strips to allow the leads to be laid in and soldered up in a puddle of solder. That oscilliscope is a beautifully made peice of gear. But very complex, and with miles of laced up cabling running all over it. Its not repairable. The idea of 3 dimensional neat wiring and neat laced cabling is very good practice though, and a far cry from the messy internals of so many amps I have seen. Patrick Turner. Doug "Patrick Turner" wrote in message ... Bob Hedberg wrote: I found a bunch of those military turret-style boards at Skyjunk (a place we go to for stuff in Orlando, I forget the real name). I snapped up every good one they had for a dollar a strip, 35 or so cents for 5 pair boards. Theyre great for prototyping. I've got them all over my 300B/2A3 prototype and other stuff. I've got HP ceramic strips out of old o'scopes for the real thing. Junque is great, and cheap. Bob H. I have recently made some of my own terminal strips using hardwood and 6 guage brass plated screws for the terminals. 4 guage would be OK. But pure brass c/s screws are also quite good, and the heads of the screws can be nipped off with end cutters to leave a stub of 6mm around which leads can be hooked and soldered. The beauty of DIY terminal strips like this is that layout can be tailored to suit the amp, and terminals can be used without waste, so unused terminals can be unscrewed from the timber strips. Painting the strips with with varnish seals the wood, which should have an extremely long life in a dry clean environment within a well ventilated chassis area which should be designed to run fairly cool. The timber I used is jarrah, but other Oz hardwood is OK, such as Vic ash, about 6mm x 8 mm in section is OK, but rock maple from canada might do. Softwoods such as pine or pacific maple are too soft, and likely to become heat affected after 50 years in an amp. Measuring for leakage current between a pair of screws embedded into the wood reveals a resistance too high for my DVM to measure, and soldering is ok, and doesn't melt anything. The sfiffness in the soldered up circuitry is better than the usual flimsy phenolic tag strip which although is effective, it looks cheap and nasty. I have been looking around for some plastic or phenolic bar material of the same section to suit the same idea of terminal screws, but so far the only offerings have been from a a guy wanting to sell me teflon bar, at rather a high price. Patrick Turner. wrote: Very, very nice. They remind me of the two Williamsons I built in 1959 but laid out on 4 7X11 chassises (2 for the amps, 2 for the power supplies). All the wiring on the underside was in military terminal board style. Still running great!! "Eike Lantzsch, ZP6CGE" wrote in message ... I just liked the beautifully built DIY project of two Williamson monoblocks shown on these pages http://www.jogis-roehrenbude.de/Lese...n/Williamson.h tm The site is in German but you might enjoy the pictures. I'm not affiliated with the builder nor the site owner. Kind regards, Eike Bob H. Just grab that plate in one hand, the chassis in the other, and FEEL the power of tube audio!!! (not literally, of course, just kidding. DON'T DO THAT!) |