How do I set the antiskate properly and how will I know when it is
aligned?

Rusty

Rusty wrote:

How do I set the antiskate properly and how will I know when it is
aligned?

It doesn't need alignment as such. If you can find a blank disc you can lower
the stylus onto it and see if it moves inwards or outwards though. Typically it
needs to be set to half the tracking weight IIRC.

Graham

Rusty spake thus:

How do I set the antiskate properly and how will I know when it is
aligned?

Do you mean set or calibrate it? There should be a scale on the control,
which corresponds to the tracking weight setting in grams; just set it
to whatever the tracking weight is. (Dunno how to calibrate it if that's
your question, although my guess would be to adjust it so that there's
no deflection force at the zero setting.)


--
A nation of sheep begets a government of wolves.

Rusty spake thus:

How do I set the antiskate properly and how will I know when it is
aligned?

Do you mean set or calibrate it? There should be a scale on the control,
which corresponds to the tracking weight setting in grams; just set it
to whatever the tracking weight is. (Dunno how to calibrate it if that's
your question, although my guess would be to adjust it so that there's
no deflection force at the zero setting.)


--
A nation of sheep begets a government of wolves.

Rusty spake thus:

How do I set the antiskate properly and how will I know when it is
aligned?

Do you mean set or calibrate it? There should be a scale on the control,
which corresponds to the tracking weight setting in grams; just set it
to whatever the tracking weight is. (Dunno how to calibrate it if that's
your question, although my guess would be to adjust it so that there's
no deflection force at the zero setting.)


--
A nation of sheep begets a government of wolves.

Rusty spake thus:

How do I set the antiskate properly and how will I know when it is
aligned?

Do you mean set or calibrate it? There should be a scale on the control,
which corresponds to the tracking weight setting in grams; just set it
to whatever the tracking weight is. (Dunno how to calibrate it if that's
your question, although my guess would be to adjust it so that there's
no deflection force at the zero setting.)


--
A nation of sheep begets a government of wolves.

Rusty spake thus:

How do I set the antiskate properly and how will I know when it is
aligned?

Do you mean set or calibrate it? There should be a scale on the control,
which corresponds to the tracking weight setting in grams; just set it
to whatever the tracking weight is. (Dunno how to calibrate it if that's
your question, although my guess would be to adjust it so that there's
no deflection force at the zero setting.)


--
A nation of sheep begets a government of wolves.

Rusty spake thus:

How do I set the antiskate properly and how will I know when it is
aligned?

Do you mean set or calibrate it? There should be a scale on the control,
which corresponds to the tracking weight setting in grams; just set it
to whatever the tracking weight is. (Dunno how to calibrate it if that's
your question, although my guess would be to adjust it so that there's
no deflection force at the zero setting.)


--
A nation of sheep begets a government of wolves.

Rusty spake thus:

How do I set the antiskate properly and how will I know when it is
aligned?

Do you mean set or calibrate it? There should be a scale on the control,
which corresponds to the tracking weight setting in grams; just set it
to whatever the tracking weight is. (Dunno how to calibrate it if that's
your question, although my guess would be to adjust it so that there's
no deflection force at the zero setting.)


--
A nation of sheep begets a government of wolves.

Rusty spake thus:

How do I set the antiskate properly and how will I know when it is
aligned?

Do you mean set or calibrate it? There should be a scale on the control,
which corresponds to the tracking weight setting in grams; just set it
to whatever the tracking weight is. (Dunno how to calibrate it if that's
your question, although my guess would be to adjust it so that there's
no deflection force at the zero setting.)


--
A nation of sheep begets a government of wolves.

David Nebenzahl wrote:
Rusty spake thus:

How do I set the antiskate properly and how will I know when it is
aligned?

Do you mean set or calibrate it? There should be a scale on the
control, which corresponds to the tracking weight setting in grams;
just set it to whatever the tracking weight is. (Dunno how to
calibrate it if that's your question, although my guess would be to
adjust it so that there's no deflection force at the zero setting.)


Calibrate?

A BSR?


Mark Z.

In . com, on 05/14/06
at 03:29 PM, "Rusty" said:



How do I set the antiskate properly and how will I know when it is
aligned?

The setting is always approximate and depends on your tracking force,
stylus geometry, and record collection.

After you set the antiskate, examine the stylus wear after 100 hours of
play. If you guessed correctly, the stylus wear pattern will be
symmetric.

I use a test disc and observe high velocity cuts on an oscilloscope. If
the mistracking is symmetric, I find that the stylus will pass the 100
hour test -- and I can't remember any that didn't. Even after several
hundred hours the wear has been symmetric.

After many years and few playing hours, tonearm bearing friction may
change and effectively modify the antiskate force. On some really old
turntables, removing the official antiskate is the right thing to do
(because of increased arm friction).

-----------------------------------------------------------
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wordgame:123(abc):14 9 20 5 2 9 18 4 at 22 15 9 3 5 14 5 20 dot 3 15
13 (Barry Mann)
[sorry about the puzzle, spammers are ruining my mailbox]
-----------------------------------------------------------

In , on 05/14/06
at 11:52 PM, "Mark D. Zacharias" said:



David Nebenzahl wrote:
Rusty spake thus:

How do I set the antiskate properly and how will I know when it is
aligned?

Do you mean set or calibrate it? There should be a scale on the
control, which corresponds to the tracking weight setting in grams;
just set it to whatever the tracking weight is. (Dunno how to
calibrate it if that's your question, although my guess would be to
adjust it so that there's no deflection force at the zero setting.)


Calibrate?

A BSR?


Mark Z.

Oh, that's a different issue. For those not so old timers who are
lurking, BSR in the 1970's sold a turntable that set new low standards
for price and quality.

-----------------------------------------------------------
spam:
wordgame:123(abc):14 9 20 5 2 9 18 4 at 22 15 9 3 5 14 5 20 dot 3 15
13 (Barry Mann)
[sorry about the puzzle, spammers are ruining my mailbox]
-----------------------------------------------------------

Mark D. Zacharias spake thus:

David Nebenzahl wrote:

Rusty spake thus:

How do I set the antiskate properly and how will I know when it is
aligned?

Do you mean set or calibrate it? There should be a scale on the
control, which corresponds to the tracking weight setting in grams;
just set it to whatever the tracking weight is. (Dunno how to
calibrate it if that's your question, although my guess would be to
adjust it so that there's no deflection force at the zero setting.)

Calibrate?

A BSR?

Heh; point taken. I shoulda known better: I'm sitting abot 2-1/2 feet
from one right now, a real piece of **** I got for $5 (with attached
Emerson AM/FM radio PLUS an 8-track player). Why? To transcribe a bunch
of old 78s, because it has the appropriate flip-over cartridge with a 78
stylus.


--
A nation of sheep begets a government of wolves.

"Rusty" wrote in message
ups.com...
How do I set the antiskate properly and how will I know when it is
aligned?

Rusty

Anti-skate is an approximation at best. There are usually two scales,
"spherical" and "elliptical", sometimes denoted by circular and elliptical
icons. You determine if your stylus is spherical or elliptical (if you can)
and set the anti-skate control to match your tracking force setting. If you
don't know if it's elliptical or spherical, just pick a scale and use it.
Lower-end styli are usually spherical; higher-end ones are usually
elliptical or "Shibata" - but I understand that elliptical is a good first
approximation for Shibata styli.

Note that the skate (or anti-skate) force is in no way equal to the tracking
force, it is just ***very roughly*** proportional to it (much less). The
skating force that the anti-skating control is compensating for is related
to the amount of friction between the stylus and the record, as well as the
geometry of the tonearm. Other things that confound the setting is that the
skating force changes from the edge to the center of the record, because the
tonearm angle changes. The required anti-skating force even increases with
to the amount of modulation in the groove - no attempt has ever been made to
compensate for that, as far as I know, although linear-tracking tonearms
have no tendency to skate whatsoever, for any reason.

Checking whether the tonearm skates inward on an uncut disk will not give
you an accurate indication because point of contact is quite different when
sitting on the top of the record vs. tracing a groove. The roughness and
shape of the stylus is different at the tip than on the normal wear points.

To add to the confusion, even if you were to set the anti-skate optimally
for one disc, it might be quite incorrect for a different disc made with a
different material (it might all be vinyl -- or maybe not -- and not all
vinyl is alike).

After many years and few playing hours, tonearm bearing friction may
change and effectively modify the antiskate force. On some really old
turntables, removing the official antiskate is the right thing to do
(because of increased arm friction).

Hmmm... it sounds like a couple of well-placed drops of high-quality watch
oil would be a better solution. Then set the anti-skate to the mfr's
recommendation.

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
Heh; point taken. I shoulda known better: I'm sitting abot 2-1/2 feet
from one right now, a real piece of **** I got for $5 (with attached
Emerson AM/FM radio PLUS an 8-track player). Why? To transcribe a bunch
of old 78s, because it has the appropriate flip-over cartridge with a 78
stylus.

I'm wondering why you would go to the trouble if you place such low
importance on the sound quality?

MrT.

Mr.T spake thus:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...

Heh; point taken. I shoulda known better: I'm sitting abot 2-1/2 feet
from one right now, a real piece of **** I got for $5 (with attached
Emerson AM/FM radio PLUS an 8-track player). Why? To transcribe a bunch
of old 78s, because it has the appropriate flip-over cartridge with a 78
stylus.

I'm wondering why you would go to the trouble if you place such low
importance on the sound quality?

We're talking about *78s* here, remember? I don't need a Beogram
turntable with an Ortofon cartridge, or whatever the Rolls-Royce stuff
is nowadays, to get all the sound quality out of these old discs.


--
A nation of sheep begets a government of wolves.

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
Heh; point taken. I shoulda known better: I'm sitting abot 2-1/2 feet
from one right now, a real piece of **** I got for $5 (with attached
Emerson AM/FM radio PLUS an 8-track player). Why? To transcribe a bunch
of old 78s, because it has the appropriate flip-over cartridge with a 78
stylus.

I'm wondering why you would go to the trouble if you place such low
importance on the sound quality?

We're talking about *78s* here, remember? I don't need a Beogram
turntable with an Ortofon cartridge, or whatever the Rolls-Royce stuff
is nowadays, to get all the sound quality out of these old discs.

If *you* don't think so, then you probably don't. It's still a puzzle why
you would even bother though in that case.

MrT.

Mr.T spake thus:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...

Heh; point taken. I shoulda known better: I'm sitting abot 2-1/2 feet

from one right now, a real piece of **** I got for $5 (with attached

Emerson AM/FM radio PLUS an 8-track player). Why? To transcribe a bunch
of old 78s, because it has the appropriate flip-over cartridge with a 78
stylus.

I'm wondering why you would go to the trouble if you place such low
importance on the sound quality?

We're talking about *78s* here, remember? I don't need a Beogram
turntable with an Ortofon cartridge, or whatever the Rolls-Royce stuff
is nowadays, to get all the sound quality out of these old discs.

If *you* don't think so, then you probably don't. It's still a puzzle why
you would even bother though in that case.

Do you mean why bother with the 78s in the first place?


--
A nation of sheep begets a government of wolves.

David Nebenzahl wrote:

Mr.T spake thus:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...

Heh; point taken. I shoulda known better: I'm sitting abot 2-1/2 feet
from one right now, a real piece of **** I got for $5 (with attached
Emerson AM/FM radio PLUS an 8-track player). Why? To transcribe a bunch
of old 78s, because it has the appropriate flip-over cartridge with a 78
stylus.

I'm wondering why you would go to the trouble if you place such low
importance on the sound quality?

We're talking about *78s* here, remember? I don't need a Beogram
turntable with an Ortofon cartridge, or whatever the Rolls-Royce stuff
is nowadays, to get all the sound quality out of these old discs.

I wouldn't fret overmuch about anti-skate with 78s.

Graham

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
Heh; point taken. I shoulda known better: I'm sitting abot 2-1/2 feet

from one right now, a real piece of **** I got for $5 (with attached

Emerson AM/FM radio PLUS an 8-track player). Why? To transcribe a
bunch
of old 78s, because it has the appropriate flip-over cartridge with a
78
stylus.

I'm wondering why you would go to the trouble if you place such low
importance on the sound quality?

We're talking about *78s* here, remember? I don't need a Beogram
turntable with an Ortofon cartridge, or whatever the Rolls-Royce stuff
is nowadays, to get all the sound quality out of these old discs.

If *you* don't think so, then you probably don't. It's still a puzzle
why
you would even bother though in that case.

Do you mean why bother with the 78s in the first place?

Why waste time transferring them to CD if they are crap quality? Why would
you even want to listen to them once.
When there was nothing better, at least there was an excuse.

MrT.

Pooh Bear spake thus:

David Nebenzahl wrote:

Mr.T spake thus:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
ers.com...

Heh; point taken. I shoulda known better: I'm sitting abot 2-1/2 feet

from one right now, a real piece of **** I got for $5 (with attached

Emerson AM/FM radio PLUS an 8-track player). Why? To transcribe a bunch
of old 78s, because it has the appropriate flip-over cartridge with a 78
stylus.

I'm wondering why you would go to the trouble if you place such low
importance on the sound quality?

We're talking about *78s* here, remember? I don't need a Beogram
turntable with an Ortofon cartridge, or whatever the Rolls-Royce stuff
is nowadays, to get all the sound quality out of these old discs.

I wouldn't fret overmuch about anti-skate with 78s.

Believe me, I'm not the one fretting about antiskating at all here.
(That was the O.P.) The POS turntable works just fine for these old
discs as-is. (I looked for the flip-over stylus.)


--
A nation of sheep begets a government of wolves.

Mr.T spake thus:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...

Heh; point taken. I shoulda known better: I'm sitting abot
2-1/2 feet from one right now, a real piece of **** I got
for $5 (with attached Emerson AM/FM radio PLUS an 8-track
player). Why? To transcribe a bunch of old 78s, because it
has the appropriate flip-over cartridge with a 78 stylus.

I'm wondering why you would go to the trouble if you place such low
importance on the sound quality?

We're talking about *78s* here, remember? I don't need a Beogram
turntable with an Ortofon cartridge, or whatever the Rolls-Royce stuff
is nowadays, to get all the sound quality out of these old discs.

If *you* don't think so, then you probably don't. It's still a
puzzle why you would even bother though in that case.

Do you mean why bother with the 78s in the first place?

Why waste time transferring them to CD if they are crap quality? Why would
you even want to listen to them once.
When there was nothing better, at least there was an excuse.

I was actually expecting an intelligent question, so since I got an
ignorant one instead, I'll respond.

Ever consider that some old recordings contain material that is no
longer available on other media? that may be of historical interest? Or
are you one of these folks who believe that stuff from the past is just
junk, to be discarded when "better technology" comes along and renders
it obsolete?

So toss out all those old daguerrotypes; they're worthless, since you
can do so much better with a digicam.

In case you're wondering, these are all recordings of Hungarian music,
made in the 30s and 40s, in styles that nobody plays any longer. There
are some real gems in there.


--
A nation of sheep begets a government of wolves.

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
Heh; point taken. I shoulda known better: I'm sitting abot
2-1/2 feet from one right now, a real piece of **** I got
for $5 (with attached Emerson AM/FM radio PLUS an 8-track
player). Why? To transcribe a bunch of old 78s, because it
has the appropriate flip-over cartridge with a 78 stylus.

I'm wondering why you would go to the trouble if you place such low
importance on the sound quality?

We're talking about *78s* here, remember? I don't need a Beogram
turntable with an Ortofon cartridge, or whatever the Rolls-Royce stuff
is nowadays, to get all the sound quality out of these old discs.

If *you* don't think so, then you probably don't. It's still a
puzzle why you would even bother though in that case.

Do you mean why bother with the 78s in the first place?

Why waste time transferring them to CD if they are crap quality? Why
would
you even want to listen to them once.
When there was nothing better, at least there was an excuse.

I was actually expecting an intelligent question, so since I got an
ignorant one instead, I'll respond.

You do seem to have a problem grasping what is being said.
But if you only respond to ignorant questions, you must talk to yourself a
lot.
To put it simply for simple people, it's fine to copy old material, but if
it's worth copying, then it's worth doing properly, or at least somewhat
above the total crap level.

Ever consider that some old recordings contain material that is no
longer available on other media? that may be of historical interest?

Yes, but in that case I consider sound quality important. Something you
obviously don't.

are you one of these folks who believe that stuff from the past is just
junk, to be discarded when "better technology" comes along and renders
it obsolete?

Quite often, but it certainly depends on the item in question.

So toss out all those old daguerrotypes; they're worthless, since you
can do so much better with a digicam.

And you of course would copy them at 75ppi and say that's good enough!

In case you're wondering, these are all recordings of Hungarian music,
made in the 30s and 40s, in styles that nobody plays any longer. There
are some real gems in there.

But if they are gems, why do you consider sound quality so unimportant?


MrT.

"Mr.T" wrote:

In case you're wondering, these are all recordings of Hungarian music,
made in the 30s and 40s, in styles that nobody plays any longer. There
are some real gems in there.

But if they are gems, why do you consider sound quality so unimportant?

Even a BSR turtable with turnover ceramic cartridge is a heck of a lot better
than what they were played on originally !

Graham

"Pooh Bear" wrote in message
...
Even a BSR turtable with turnover ceramic cartridge is a heck of a lot
better
than what they were played on originally !

Only if you think they stopped making 78's in the era of wind up gramophones
and steel needles. (actually that would probably be an improvement)

But it still doesn't explain why someone would spend a lot of time to
produce crap, knowing that it could be so much better with a little more
expense.
There are a lot of people already doing this sort of thing with proper
turntables and cartridges. 78 stylii are still available for some models.
Archives all around the world are churning out this stuff daily, for
historical purposes.

And how many times would you want to listen to total crap just because you
can't get it on CD anyway? It's not like there isn't enough music readily
available already to keep you listening a lifetime. Surely some of it
appeals.

I still think if there is a good enough reason to do it in the first place,
why waste time on a botch job?

MrT.