Because i have a classic car and no desire to cut up the dash, I went
with Custom Auto Sound equipment (with one exception).

(Doesn't anyone write a decent install manual anymore?)

Anyway, USA 06 am-fm 10 disc changer, kick panel speakers, rear
soundbar, GS4300 amp. I also picked up from Crutchfield, a Kicker 9
band graphic equalizer.

Signals go from the HU to the EQ to the amp to the speakers.

The EQ has a remote for the amp turn on, and a REMOTE lead to join the
EQ with the HU. In the case of a HU with no REMOTE, it says to
connect that EQ lead to an accessory. Any ideas on best? I did a "Y"
to join the HU Acc lead and the EQ REMOTE lead, to a switched fuse
tap.

With regard to the amp, I ran a dedicated power lead, through the
frame rail to the trunk where the amp is mounted. Does this keep the
amp on and draining the battery when the car is parked for the night?
Isn't that the intent of the REMOTE? To turn on the amp only when the
key is switched to either ACC or startup?

Appreciate the assistance.


Spike
1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok
Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior; Vintage 40
16" rims w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A gForce Radial
225/50ZR16 KDWS skins; surround sound audio-video.

Gad what fools these morons be....
Children are obscene but should not be heard
Give me a peperoni pizza... or give me a calzone!

"Spike" wrote in message
...
Because i have a classic car and no desire to cut up the dash, I went
with Custom Auto Sound equipment (with one exception).

(Doesn't anyone write a decent install manual anymore?)

Anyway, USA 06 am-fm 10 disc changer, kick panel speakers, rear
soundbar, GS4300 amp. I also picked up from Crutchfield, a Kicker 9
band graphic equalizer.

Signals go from the HU to the EQ to the amp to the speakers.

The EQ has a remote for the amp turn on, and a REMOTE lead to join the
EQ with the HU. In the case of a HU with no REMOTE, it says to
connect that EQ lead to an accessory. Any ideas on best? I did a "Y"
to join the HU Acc lead and the EQ REMOTE lead, to a switched fuse
tap.

With regard to the amp, I ran a dedicated power lead, through the
frame rail to the trunk where the amp is mounted. Does this keep the
amp on and draining the battery when the car is parked for the night?
Isn't that the intent of the REMOTE? To turn on the amp only when the
key is switched to either ACC or startup?

Appreciate the assistance.


Spike
1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok
Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior; Vintage 40
16" rims w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A gForce Radial
225/50ZR16 KDWS skins; surround sound audio-video.

Gad what fools these morons be....
Children are obscene but should not be heard
Give me a peperoni pizza... or give me a calzone!

Correct.
The remote lead to the amp should be switched (or connected to the HU remote
wire) and the main power supply to the amp constantly live.
Greg.

Thanks, Greg. I thought I was reading that right.... but being a
novice.... retiring mimes want to know..... *|:0)X - - -

Correct.
The remote lead to the amp should be switched (or connected to the HU remote
wire) and the main power supply to the amp constantly live.
Greg.


Spike
1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok
Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior; Vintage 40
16" rims w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A gForce Radial
225/50ZR16 KDWS skins; surround sound audio-video.

Gad what fools these morons be....
Children are obscene but should not be heard
Give me a peperoni pizza... or give me a calzone!

Why don't you connect it to accessory power that goes to the HU and
brings it to life when the car is started or the key is in the
accessory position? I mean, your radio doesn't stay playing all night,
right? So why would your amp stay on when you connect the remote turn
on wire to the same thing that kills your radio at night and brings it
to life when you want it to?

Please don't take this wrong, but you totally lost me.

I think what you are saying is what I have.

The manual says to connect the equalizer remote lead (the one which
would normally go to the HU if my HU had a remote lead) to an
accessory. That I have done.

Then there is a remote lead which goes from the equalizer to the amp.

So, when I turn the key, the radio comes on (unless I have it turned
off, of course). Since the radio has no remote out lead to the
equalizer, the fact that the equalizer remote in lead is connected to
an accessory, it also turns on when the key is turned.

There is a remote out lead from the equalizer to the amp. Since the
amp is trunk mounted, I can't see whether it is lit up or not unless I
open the trunk and look.

My primary concern is that I was correct in the belief that the amp
only comes on and draws power from the battery when the remote keys. I
don't want to have to charge my battery every time I turn around
because the amp has been on and drawing power all night.

On 7 Sep 2005 09:32:18 -0700, wrote:

Why don't you connect it to accessory power that goes to the HU and
brings it to life when the car is started or the key is in the
accessory position? I mean, your radio doesn't stay playing all night,
right? So why would your amp stay on when you connect the remote turn
on wire to the same thing that kills your radio at night and brings it
to life when you want it to?

Spike
1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok
Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior; Vintage 40
16" rims w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A gForce Radial
225/50ZR16 KDWS skins; surround sound audio-video.

Gad what fools these morons be....
Children are obscene but should not be heard
Give me a peperoni pizza... or give me a calzone!

It won't be on all night unless the key is in all night.

Now that I am thinking, if you know a little bit about electronics and
are not afraid to disassemble the head unit, you could make your on
remote turn on. Just see what the power button turns on and by using a
simple relay and the accessory power cable, you can "amplify" that
small signal making it into a real remote turn on lead, just so you
wouldn't have to worry about the battery when you are doing something
in the car and need axulary power on and not anything else.

That's just a little bit beyond my knowledge level (I know how to
change the station : ).... and the equipment is under warrantee for
another 10-11 months.

On 8 Sep 2005 06:25:33 -0700, wrote:

It won't be on all night unless the key is in all night.

Now that I am thinking, if you know a little bit about electronics and
are not afraid to disassemble the head unit, you could make your on
remote turn on. Just see what the power button turns on and by using a
simple relay and the accessory power cable, you can "amplify" that
small signal making it into a real remote turn on lead, just so you
wouldn't have to worry about the battery when you are doing something
in the car and need axulary power on and not anything else.

Spike
1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok
Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior; Vintage 40
16" rims w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A gForce Radial
225/50ZR16 KDWS skins; surround sound audio-video.

Gad what fools these morons be....
Children are obscene but should not be heard
Give me a peperoni pizza... or give me a calzone!

I am not really that good with electronics, just starting, but I am
thinking there might be another way (not openingthe equipment that is).
Bare with me here for a little bit, I will try to explain to you what I
have in mind.

There is auxulary power available to the HU when the key is in the AUX
position or the engine is started, but the HU does not take any of it
in when not in use so the current is not doing anything, just sitting
there. I am thinking that if you let it go to a normally closed relay
(no power, the contacts are shorted out, letting the remote turn on to
go through) through a resistor, opening it while the HU is not taking
in the current, the remote power would be interrupted and it is all
fine. When you turn the HU on, it will be easier for the current to
flow through the HU and not through the resistor (and to the relay,
shutting off the remote turn on) so the normally closed function of the
relay should provide the EQ and amp with the power needed to run them.
Everything covered but one case, when the car is off, the HU is not
taking in any current so the relay would turn on the amp and EQ, unless
of course you use the aux power line as the "signal" the relay would
interrupt or let through. Key is out, the relay is letting everything
through but there is nothing to go through, the key is in, aux power
wants to go through but the relay is stopping it, the HU is on, the aux
power wants to go through and the relay is letting it through.

You probably have no clue what I just said and I am not even sure if
what I tried to describe there would even work, maybe MZ will chime in
to help you out and correct me.

Hope I didn't confuse you too much.

I'm still trying to figure out what the problem is. It seems he's asking
if the amp will draw any current when the head unit is off. The answer is
no. What else is he trying o do?

On Fri, 8 Sep 2005 wrote:

I am not really that good with electronics, just starting, but I am
thinking there might be another way (not openingthe equipment that is).
Bare with me here for a little bit, I will try to explain to you what I
have in mind.

There is auxulary power available to the HU when the key is in the AUX
position or the engine is started, but the HU does not take any of it
in when not in use so the current is not doing anything, just sitting
there. I am thinking that if you let it go to a normally closed relay
(no power, the contacts are shorted out, letting the remote turn on to
go through) through a resistor, opening it while the HU is not taking
in the current, the remote power would be interrupted and it is all
fine. When you turn the HU on, it will be easier for the current to
flow through the HU and not through the resistor (and to the relay,
shutting off the remote turn on) so the normally closed function of the
relay should provide the EQ and amp with the power needed to run them.
Everything covered but one case, when the car is off, the HU is not
taking in any current so the relay would turn on the amp and EQ, unless
of course you use the aux power line as the "signal" the relay would
interrupt or let through. Key is out, the relay is letting everything
through but there is nothing to go through, the key is in, aux power
wants to go through but the relay is stopping it, the HU is on, the aux
power wants to go through and the relay is letting it through.

You probably have no clue what I just said and I am not even sure if
what I tried to describe there would even work, maybe MZ will chime in
to help you out and correct me.

Hope I didn't confuse you too much.

I guess that really was the only question. Hmm, I figured the amp would
still draw a little current because of input noise or the like. Bah, I
need more study time.

MZ, thanks for clearing that out.

I guess that really was the only question. Hmm, I figured the amp would
still draw a little current because of input noise or the like. Bah, I
need more study time.

MZ, thanks for clearing that out.

When the amp is off, it'll only draw on the order of 0-10 mA, mostly leakage
current from the big filter capacitors at the input. Presumably, the older
the amp (eg. 10 yrs), the more it would draw when off, though I've never
tested this idea myself. Anyway, that's probably less than what the radio
itself draws when off just to keep the clock and memory functions running.

Right outta the ball park... *SMACK*.... it's a HOME RUN!! : 0 )

You are absolutely right.... I think I turned left at the bakery when
I shoulda turned right.....

Couldn't possibly confuse me if there was nothing I understood.... LOL
But I do appreciate the effort involved in trying to get it through my
thick skull... : )

On 8 Sep 2005 23:36:09 -0700, wrote:

I am not really that good with electronics, just starting, but I am
thinking there might be another way (not openingthe equipment that is).
Bare with me here for a little bit, I will try to explain to you what I
have in mind.

There is auxulary power available to the HU when the key is in the AUX
position or the engine is started, but the HU does not take any of it
in when not in use so the current is not doing anything, just sitting
there. I am thinking that if you let it go to a normally closed relay
(no power, the contacts are shorted out, letting the remote turn on to
go through) through a resistor, opening it while the HU is not taking
in the current, the remote power would be interrupted and it is all
fine. When you turn the HU on, it will be easier for the current to
flow through the HU and not through the resistor (and to the relay,
shutting off the remote turn on) so the normally closed function of the
relay should provide the EQ and amp with the power needed to run them.
Everything covered but one case, when the car is off, the HU is not
taking in any current so the relay would turn on the amp and EQ, unless
of course you use the aux power line as the "signal" the relay would
interrupt or let through. Key is out, the relay is letting everything
through but there is nothing to go through, the key is in, aux power
wants to go through but the relay is stopping it, the HU is on, the aux
power wants to go through and the relay is letting it through.

You probably have no clue what I just said and I am not even sure if
what I tried to describe there would even work, maybe MZ will chime in
to help you out and correct me.

Hope I didn't confuse you too much.

Spike
1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok
Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior; Vintage 40
16" rims w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A gForce Radial
225/50ZR16 KDWS skins; surround sound audio-video.

Gad what fools these morons be....
Children are obscene but should not be heard
Give me a peperoni pizza... or give me a calzone!

Really, that, and whether I had understood the connections as
indicated in the manual, were my considerations. And from what all
have said, I have understood both correctly. I think Andrey was just
trying to find a way to create a remote to kick in the equalizer
(which kicks in the amp) when the HU has no remote out lead.

On Fri, 9 Sep 2005 11:27:41 -0400, "MZ"
wrote:

I guess that really was the only question. Hmm, I figured the amp would
still draw a little current because of input noise or the like. Bah, I
need more study time.

MZ, thanks for clearing that out.

When the amp is off, it'll only draw on the order of 0-10 mA, mostly leakage
current from the big filter capacitors at the input. Presumably, the older
the amp (eg. 10 yrs), the more it would draw when off, though I've never
tested this idea myself. Anyway, that's probably less than what the radio
itself draws when off just to keep the clock and memory functions running.


Spike
1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok
Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior; Vintage 40
16" rims w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A gForce Radial
225/50ZR16 KDWS skins; surround sound audio-video.

Gad what fools these morons be....
Children are obscene but should not be heard
Give me a peperoni pizza... or give me a calzone!

Oh, I see. A lot of times you could simply go off the ignition wire (the
wire that allows the radio to turn on when the ignition is on), which will
ensure that it won't stay on all night. Also, there are devices out there
that will auto sense an audio signal coming from the head unit and provide a
remote from that.

"Spike" wrote in message
...
Really, that, and whether I had understood the connections as
indicated in the manual, were my considerations. And from what all
have said, I have understood both correctly. I think Andrey was just
trying to find a way to create a remote to kick in the equalizer
(which kicks in the amp) when the HU has no remote out lead.

On Fri, 9 Sep 2005 11:27:41 -0400, "MZ"
wrote:

I guess that really was the only question. Hmm, I figured the amp would
still draw a little current because of input noise or the like. Bah, I
need more study time.

MZ, thanks for clearing that out.

When the amp is off, it'll only draw on the order of 0-10 mA, mostly
leakage
current from the big filter capacitors at the input. Presumably, the
older
the amp (eg. 10 yrs), the more it would draw when off, though I've never
tested this idea myself. Anyway, that's probably less than what the
radio
itself draws when off just to keep the clock and memory functions
running.


Spike
1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok
Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior; Vintage 40
16" rims w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A gForce Radial
225/50ZR16 KDWS skins; surround sound audio-video.

Gad what fools these morons be....
Children are obscene but should not be heard
Give me a peperoni pizza... or give me a calzone!

i usually throw a switch on my remote lead just in case i want to turn it
off separately...something to consider


"Spike" wrote in message
...
Right outta the ball park... *SMACK*.... it's a HOME RUN!! : 0 )

You are absolutely right.... I think I turned left at the bakery when
I shoulda turned right.....

Couldn't possibly confuse me if there was nothing I understood.... LOL
But I do appreciate the effort involved in trying to get it through my
thick skull... : )

On 8 Sep 2005 23:36:09 -0700, wrote:

I am not really that good with electronics, just starting, but I am
thinking there might be another way (not openingthe equipment that is).
Bare with me here for a little bit, I will try to explain to you what I
have in mind.

There is auxulary power available to the HU when the key is in the AUX
position or the engine is started, but the HU does not take any of it
in when not in use so the current is not doing anything, just sitting
there. I am thinking that if you let it go to a normally closed relay
(no power, the contacts are shorted out, letting the remote turn on to
go through) through a resistor, opening it while the HU is not taking
in the current, the remote power would be interrupted and it is all
fine. When you turn the HU on, it will be easier for the current to
flow through the HU and not through the resistor (and to the relay,
shutting off the remote turn on) so the normally closed function of the
relay should provide the EQ and amp with the power needed to run them.
Everything covered but one case, when the car is off, the HU is not
taking in any current so the relay would turn on the amp and EQ, unless
of course you use the aux power line as the "signal" the relay would
interrupt or let through. Key is out, the relay is letting everything
through but there is nothing to go through, the key is in, aux power
wants to go through but the relay is stopping it, the HU is on, the aux
power wants to go through and the relay is letting it through.

You probably have no clue what I just said and I am not even sure if
what I tried to describe there would even work, maybe MZ will chime in
to help you out and correct me.

Hope I didn't confuse you too much.

Spike
1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok
Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior; Vintage 40
16" rims w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A gForce Radial
225/50ZR16 KDWS skins; surround sound audio-video.

Gad what fools these morons be....
Children are obscene but should not be heard
Give me a peperoni pizza... or give me a calzone!

On Fri, 9 Sep 2005 15:10:48 -0400, "MZ"
wrote:

Oh, I see. A lot of times you could simply go off the ignition wire (the
wire that allows the radio to turn on when the ignition is on), which will
ensure that it won't stay on all night. Also, there are devices out there
that will auto sense an audio signal coming from the head unit and provide a
remote from that.

Do you have a reference or link to such a device?

Big bucks item? I just had this car restored and it went just a
weeeeeee bit over budget... all told, I would guess I'm into it for
around $26K. Money is just a little bit tight. Then my 80 year old
father says, 'well, I like the coupes a lot better.'



Spike
1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok
Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior; Vintage 40
16" rims w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A gForce Radial
225/50ZR16 KDWS skins; surround sound audio-video.

Gad what fools these morons be....
Children are obscene but should not be heard
Give me a peperoni pizza... or give me a calzone!