Thanks Greg. I was having so much fun swatting the ignorant flies that
breed around the **** they create on this newsgroup, I wasn't expecting
an intelligent, respectful, and non-ridiculing response like this.
Especially so "late in the game" (given that the flies on this group do
nothing all day but post here, that means it only takes about 5-10
minutes for a thread to degenerate due to the inherent stupidity of
low-level audio techies on the net...). It's always funny for me to see
that once you start mentioning you can hear things to wannabe-
engineers that they weren't taught in their local college courses, they
start freaking out in fits of neuroses. Like babies who've had their
security blankets rudely yanked away. They don't even TRY to debate the
issue they contend with in the first place (because they actually
can't...), they simply make COMPLETE asses out of themselves, because
they simply don't know what to do with themselves...
Anyway, not sure what you mean by "changing a fuse should do a bunch
more than replacing a cord". Bunch more soundwise? Replacing one fuse
for the same fuse, or for that of a different rating? As mentioned in
my message, I didn't try replacing one fuse for another of the same
type, but for that of a different type. I did try reversing the amps
original fuse, and found that made an audible difference as well.
What I'm still unsure about is:
- What is the exact risk involved of changing the rating of a fuse (in
my case, 1.6a 125v for a 500mA 250v)?
- What is the exact risk involved in using solder wire instead of the
original fuse and its filament wire? (Seems to me the solder would burn
at an even lower temperature,
- Would a transformer damaged by the absence of the original fuse be
audibly apparent before leaking currents and creating a risk of shock?
- How can I check to be sure my metal case is properly grounded?
GregS wrote:
In article . com, wrote:
Did some experiments on the fuse of my amp... I replaced a 500mA 250v
fuse with a 1.6a 125v fuse and found the sound much improved. Then I
decided to replace the 1.6a fuse with a jumper made of a silver
paperclip, and found the sound improved much further. Then I replaced
the paper clip with silver solder, and found it improved further
(though I'm less sure about the solder being better than the clip
overall...).
Question is: Exactly what risks are there in running an integrated amp
or a preamp sans fuse? I don't care so much about the gear blowing up,
since its old gear anyway. But nor do I want a fire started when I
leave the amp running all night or am not at home. In the case of the
preamp, the casing is solid metal, with the integrated, its a wood
casing. What are the chances of fire and how would it start? What are
the chances of it blowing up and how might that occur? (so far, no
problems!). Is electrical shock a risk with a fuseless amp?
Changing a fuse should do a bunch more than replacing a cord, especially
a cooroded fuse connection. Relacing any connection is likely to improve the connection.
A fuse can help prevent shocks, but there is no guarantee. Damaged transformers could leak
currents. Its preferable to have all metal cases grounded, but not all metal cases
are grounded. Wood can overheat with damaged components, and may or may
not still work. Fires have been started with metal chassis equipment, allthough
mostly with ventillated chassis.
greg